I ended up trading mine in. I later heard that it was a faulty kickstand switch, though I can’t confirm that. But it is something to check. And the clutch safety switch. Good luck.
Check your secondary throttle plate for free motion. While your engine is idling, look closely at the side of the throttle body and you will see a cam rotating against a curved arm with a round peg on it connected to the primary throttle plate through a short spring. That rotating cam is connected to the shaft of a secondary throttle plate which operates independently by an electronic signal from your ecu. See if it moves when you rev the engine. It should cause the primary throttle plate to "soft close", letting it slowly return to idle. the secondary throttle plate only begins to open past 50% at 7,000 rpms. If it does not get the proper signal from the ECU to open, your engine will hold back. On a side note, I removed my secondary throttle plate as well as the spring which acts on the primary throttle plate. The difference in engine response is remarkable. You can find all of the info on page 33 in this forum: www.advrider.com/f/threads/kawasaki-klx300sm.1477640/page-33#post-44008887 As to your problem, I would take your seat and side panels off, unplug all of the electrical connectors including the ecu and blow them all out with an air compressor. I'll bet everything returns to normal. : )
@@supermotogreg All they could tell me at the time I last checked was that there was little compression and that it was a problem in the valves. So it could be a bent valve stem, but not certain until they actually dig in and then let me know. But yeah, it sounds like a valve isn't fully closing. They haven't told me why yet.
I usually check air, fuel, and spark/ compression. Air filter seems fine, check. Maybe bad gas or water got in the gas somehow. Check spark plug and rubber spark plug boot. If electrical got wet it shouldhave dried enless theres an area where water squeezed in and is sitting in a fitting somewhere. Definitely seems like an air or fueling issue.
Almost seems like a water issue in the throttle body? Not sure if it has a MAF sensor but possibly dirty water got sucked to it causing erratic readings. To me spark and fuel would be low hanging fruit but unlikely. Curious what you'll hear
Not sure what year you said that was, but if it had a carb it sounds like the vacuum slide is stuck. Should be a line and filter running off carb. which may have mud or something blocking it. Good luck.
Thanks. I took it into the shop because it was still under warranty (just). Turned out to be a burnt up valve or something. Needed a top end re-build. Glad it happened when it happened and not three weeks later or I'd have been S.O.L. Kawasaki stood behind their product, fixed it, and I got it back Saturday. I just had a surgery last week and have to wait another 5 weeks before I can ride again. I can't wait!
I’d take it in under warranty. Maybe pull the spark plug (maybe even replace it) and check the SP wire. I wouldn’t get the extended warranty. I bought mine on Feb 4 last year so I just let my “opportunity” pass. After the shop looks at it, I’d consider the snorkel removal and a tuner. You’ve already checked the air cleaner.
I would drain tank add some new gas and quality. Put a little gas then some injector cleaner run a minute and then top off tank. If that does not work you could do plug, but if under warrantee take it to the dealer and let them figure out the problem. I would pull the connectors as you can and use some static grease sold in tube or big can that will help with the connectors because of your use with wash and moisture. Make sure the engine is cold before wash down could crack some thing if to hot.
Well, mud is horrible for machines and pressure washers can be bad too. You cleaned the air filter, did any thing get past it? When using the pressure washer you want to avoid spraying certain areas, ignition parts, air filter, intake, fuel injection, wheel bearing etc. I would take everything apart and make sure it is all dry and mud free, drain all the gas and replace. If everything is clean and dry(including the gas) and it still doesn't run right, take it to the stealership with a fistful of money
Just got the bike back from the dealership a few minutes ago. So, I guess there was a lot of carbon build-up that got one of the valves to not fully close and then it just got worse from there. Bike got a full top end rebuild with new valves and piston rings, etc. Given the type of riding that I'm doing 90% of the time, I'm going to change the final drive gearing so that I'm spending more time at a higher rpm to help burn out the stuff. I'm also going to be going to fully ethanol free gas when riding off road. I'll only use pump gas if and when riding on the street. But 90% of the time, my bike rides in a trailer to a ranch where I just ride single track on the weekends. I don't use it on the street hardly at all.
@@seanpaula8924 And good luck with your bike. I've been happy with mine until it had its issue. If I keep it, I'll change the gearing to better suit the type of riding that I'm using it for.
Keep us updated please, Sir.
Will do, once I find out. The bike is at the dealership now.
.
Here's an update th-cam.com/video/JJNyxKjNlxs/w-d-xo.html
Dude my new 2024 klx 300 doing this what is it?
I ended up trading mine in. I later heard that it was a faulty kickstand switch, though I can’t confirm that. But it is something to check. And the clutch safety switch. Good luck.
That sucks! I’m gonna bring it in today. Hopefully they can fix the issue, I know the betas are the real deal would like to upgrade one day
Check your secondary throttle plate for free motion.
While your engine is idling, look closely at the side of the throttle body and you will see a cam rotating against a curved arm with a round peg on it connected to the primary throttle plate through a short spring.
That rotating cam is connected to the shaft of a secondary throttle plate which operates independently by an electronic signal from your ecu.
See if it moves when you rev the engine. It should cause the primary throttle plate to "soft close", letting it slowly return to idle. the secondary throttle plate only begins to open past 50% at 7,000 rpms. If it does not get the proper signal from the ECU to open, your engine will hold back.
On a side note, I removed my secondary throttle plate as well as the spring which acts on the primary throttle plate. The difference in engine response is remarkable. You can find all of the info on page 33 in this forum:
www.advrider.com/f/threads/kawasaki-klx300sm.1477640/page-33#post-44008887
As to your problem, I would take your seat and side panels off, unplug all of the electrical connectors including the ecu and blow them all out with an air compressor. I'll bet everything returns to normal. : )
I took it into the shop where I bought it. It's getting a top end re-build.
@@jwaller1327 Bent valve stem?
@@supermotogreg All they could tell me at the time I last checked was that there was little compression and that it was a problem in the valves. So it could be a bent valve stem, but not certain until they actually dig in and then let me know. But yeah, it sounds like a valve isn't fully closing. They haven't told me why yet.
I usually check air, fuel, and spark/ compression. Air filter seems fine, check. Maybe bad gas or water got in the gas somehow. Check spark plug and rubber spark plug boot. If electrical got wet it shouldhave dried enless theres an area where water squeezed in and is sitting in a fitting somewhere. Definitely seems like an air or fueling issue.
Almost seems like a water issue in the throttle body? Not sure if it has a MAF sensor but possibly dirty water got sucked to it causing erratic readings. To me spark and fuel would be low hanging fruit but unlikely. Curious what you'll hear
Not sure what year you said that was, but if it had a carb it sounds like the vacuum slide is stuck. Should be a line and filter running off carb. which may have mud or something blocking it. Good luck.
Thanks. I took it into the shop because it was still under warranty (just). Turned out to be a burnt up valve or something. Needed a top end re-build. Glad it happened when it happened and not three weeks later or I'd have been S.O.L. Kawasaki stood behind their product, fixed it, and I got it back Saturday. I just had a surgery last week and have to wait another 5 weeks before I can ride again. I can't wait!
I’d take it in under warranty. Maybe pull the spark plug (maybe even replace it) and check the SP wire.
I wouldn’t get the extended warranty. I bought mine on Feb 4 last year so I just let my “opportunity” pass.
After the shop looks at it, I’d consider the snorkel removal and a tuner. You’ve already checked the air cleaner.
I would drain tank add some new gas and quality. Put a little gas then some injector cleaner run a minute and then top off tank. If that does not work you could do plug, but if under warrantee take it to the dealer and let them figure out the problem. I would pull the connectors as you can and use some static grease sold in tube or big can that will help with the connectors because of your use with wash and moisture. Make sure the engine is cold before wash down could crack some thing if to hot.
I know I’m late…
Water in the engine kill switch.
Open up, air compressor blow out.
Worth a try.
Well, mud is horrible for machines and pressure washers can be bad too. You cleaned the air filter, did any thing get past it? When using the pressure washer you want to avoid spraying certain areas, ignition parts, air filter, intake, fuel injection, wheel bearing etc. I would take everything apart and make sure it is all dry and mud free, drain all the gas and replace. If everything is clean and dry(including the gas) and it still doesn't run right, take it to the stealership with a fistful of money
Update?
Just got the bike back from the dealership a few minutes ago. So, I guess there was a lot of carbon build-up that got one of the valves to not fully close and then it just got worse from there. Bike got a full top end rebuild with new valves and piston rings, etc. Given the type of riding that I'm doing 90% of the time, I'm going to change the final drive gearing so that I'm spending more time at a higher rpm to help burn out the stuff. I'm also going to be going to fully ethanol free gas when riding off road. I'll only use pump gas if and when riding on the street. But 90% of the time, my bike rides in a trailer to a ranch where I just ride single track on the weekends. I don't use it on the street hardly at all.
@@jwaller1327 wow!
Haven't got mine yet. About a month before it shows up. Thanks.
@@seanpaula8924 Here's an update video, if you're interested. th-cam.com/video/JJNyxKjNlxs/w-d-xo.html
@@seanpaula8924 And good luck with your bike. I've been happy with mine until it had its issue. If I keep it, I'll change the gearing to better suit the type of riding that I'm using it for.
Take it to the dealer
Yeah, it's there now
Take to the dealer... I wash my wr250r after every ride and have never had that issue...must be a kawasaki thing )lol
Put GOOD gas !!!
Drained the gas tank and put in ethanol free gas. Still no good