Having done restoration on a classic before, I really appreciate having the right tools, and I'd love to be able to do this again and get some of the things I was missing to make it easier. I think a spot welder would speed up the sills. Good to learn the relationship of the sill panels and how they overlap like that too. Looking forward to the next video in this series 👍
This was very helpful in understanding the process. I like how you mentioned the amount of time that it took too. It puts it in perspective. Thank you for sharing this
Elin, no matter what the outcome, I am looking forward to your solutions.. The bigger the holes, the more I learn by watching you..This one is almost as good as Chris's Spitfire was and he's done a great job of sorting that one out lol. Take care as always/
Elin. As far as I know there was no strengthener piece incorporated in the TR6 sills. It is not shown in any of the manuals and my 74did not have them and I did not build them back in when I replaced the inner and outer sills and floors. Inherent strength is provided by the tension between the inner sill, floor drop and outer sill which needs to be
Elin and Jon, My first car was a white metal dash 4. Bought used in 1972. I've since owned about 12-13 of these. Still have 3 all need total restoration. The big issue is the big front assembly connected to the big rear assembly with sills in the middle. The rear clip is rigid, the front clip is wobbly. The front of a tr6 is hardly bolted to the frame. Even bolted down, it is loose. The cowl shake is the big negative. Door opening flex is no real issue, it's the crashing and booming of the front clip. The giant bonnet with no support does not help. Consider how tall the plenum is without any real support. The front tub bolts are essentially it. Not enough. MGA's had a "goal post" assembly. MUCH BETTER!! What to do? Strengthen the frame, make sure the a and b posts are well reconstructed where meeting the sill, and add a stiffener diaphragm as Elin, our fine young scientist, has done here. On cars already repaired, a lower inner sill (upside down) could easily be added. When the top and bottom flanges gain thickness, the I-beam strength increases greatly. I know of no TR owners or diesel mechanics I don't like.
You are doing well and a lot of the things you are doing are inspirational, others make me wince to be honest. I can also confirm that no “strengthening” piece was fitted between the inner and outer cill’s. (I’ve just checked my ‘72). That being the case I wonder if that was the purpose of the triangle plate between the rear inner wing and the top of the inner cill. Otherwise I largely agree with comments made by Randall Williams though, I use self tappers to hold panels together rather than pop rivets. If you would like to see to view my Facebook blog please let me know and I’ll send you the link.
There were no sill stiffener pieces in my TR4A, actually there wasn't much good metal at all in the sills. It appears that your A and B posts are usable, mine weren't, at least not at the base connections at the floor. I've re-constructed all of those locations but it was not the most pleasant work. A big like for the videos, keep on going !
Really like the work you are doing. I need to do some of what you are doing on my 75 TR6, but I don`t have the welding ability , so I am lining up some help. Keep up the good work and video`s
Yours had more metal than MGB I owned. The sills on mine were bondo and newspaper. That was in the '70s so I scrapped it. Eventually I was able to get a solid Austin Healey.
If it were possible I would give you more than one thumb up. You really do that perfectly. And by the way, that was a very good drawing and excellent explanation. It's really fun to watch the restoration.
Elin, Like Sean, I am sure that the TR4A, TR6 etc. did not have any strengthener pieces in the sills. The Spitfire has a three-piece (inner, baffle and outer), but the TRs and Stags just inner and outer. I suspect that your "short strengthener" was a previous repair of the extended flange on the floor. I also suggest that you take a look at the sill front and rear end caps to make sure you get the correct profile when assembling the floor/inner sill/outer sill. Otherwise, as usual, a very informative video, so thanks. My TR6 project has rot as bad as yours... next up is replacement of floors, sills and footwell panels !
Yes, I agree :) I didn't do my homework LOL. So it will be a reinforced sill I guess as it is all together now. And yes, I did the cap trick. Next video coming soon. Thanks
My TR6 is built exactly the same way as that one. Only the floor, inner sill and rocker panel No 3rd (strengthener) piece of metal in the middle. I'm pretty sure mine is factory. It's a Georgia car and has never been messed with.
Ohhh mate... I it is pretty much like Titanic now. I hope you guys got it for symbolic price as it needs to be build pretty much from ground-up (literally).
Hi Elin, May be too late as you've progressed beyond my suggestions but maybe another poor bloke can be helped. You've already lost the geometry of the car... If it indeed had any to begin with. When you've got the apost and tub mount floating up and down and all around, it's lost. Also the floors float long in the front so again it's lost. No worries however...just cut the body in half. Then much easier to repair front and rear half items not dimensionally critical. Then marry up to a good frame, assemble outer body, I know that sounds like a cluster...locate and like how floors and doors/sills look and weld them. Stress the whole thing. I hang a 55 gallon drum with water. Beware the new outer sills may not be the right curvature. No stiffener diaphragm in a TR6. You may have to jack the bottom of the outer sill to increase curvature to get the bottom flanges to meet the floor drop, and if you do, the top will need to be completely welded in place and possibly removed to the bench and clamped as there's nothing to jack against. The top flange of outer sill/inner sill/floor will locate fairly accurately, the bottom flange floor drop and outer sill will be 25mm off from mating together. Do in this order as its a pressing mistake, not a Elin mistake. I have cut many in half. A guy with your skill will have no problems, and importantly it saves 50 hours of drudgery. Love your stuff. Reed.
No worries, Reed, I didn't lose the geometry. The next video is coming soon. Everything went back together with no issues. The stiffner was overkill :) I agree. Somehow I had it in my head that there must be one inside, but it is too late now. It was all done :) It won't hurt
Elvin, you are an inspiration to anyone who owns or has owned these wonderful cars.I owned a TR3, 4 and one of the earliest Tr6’s shipped to North America, It was the only one I ever saw that still had the stainless piping between the fenders. Keep up the great work and please continue to share your videos
greg etchason I agree, but these cars are 50 years old already and it is rare to find one that has never been worked on. Especially here in Canada. In the southern states yes, but that’s too far away for me. I actually enjoy the work so I am not worried if I have to undo previous “repairs” It is entertaining to see how some problems were “solved” :)
Having done restoration on a classic before, I really appreciate having the right tools, and I'd love to be able to do this again and get some of the things I was missing to make it easier. I think a spot welder would speed up the sills.
Good to learn the relationship of the sill panels and how they overlap like that too.
Looking forward to the next video in this series 👍
This was very helpful in understanding the process. I like how you mentioned the amount of time that it took too. It puts it in perspective. Thank you for sharing this
Elin, no matter what the outcome, I am looking forward to your solutions.. The bigger the holes, the more I learn by watching you..This one is almost as good as Chris's Spitfire was and he's done a great job of sorting that one out lol. Take care as always/
Elin. As far as I know there was no strengthener piece incorporated in the TR6 sills. It is not shown in any of the manuals and my 74did not have them and I did not build them back in when I replaced the inner and outer sills and floors. Inherent strength is provided by the tension between the inner sill, floor drop and outer sill which needs to be
Yes, you are right :) Well, the undo button doesn't work here so I guess it will be a reinforced TR6 LOL
Absolutely magic! I could not be more impressed with your work Elin. Woo Hoo!
Wow. That is going to be a lot of hours. Job security. Nice work.
Elin and Jon,
My first car was a white metal dash 4. Bought used in 1972. I've since owned about 12-13 of these. Still have 3 all need total restoration.
The big issue is the big front assembly connected to the big rear assembly with sills in the middle. The rear clip is rigid, the front clip is wobbly. The front of a tr6 is hardly bolted to the frame. Even bolted down, it is loose. The cowl shake is the big negative. Door opening flex is no real issue, it's the crashing and booming of the front clip. The giant bonnet with no support does not help. Consider how tall the plenum is without any real support. The front tub bolts are essentially it. Not enough. MGA's had a "goal post" assembly. MUCH BETTER!! What to do? Strengthen the frame, make sure the a and b posts are well reconstructed where meeting the sill, and add a stiffener diaphragm as Elin, our fine young scientist, has done here. On cars already repaired, a lower inner sill (upside down) could easily be added. When the top and bottom flanges gain thickness, the I-beam strength increases greatly. I know of no TR owners or diesel mechanics I don't like.
You are doing well and a lot of the things you are doing are inspirational, others make me wince to be honest. I can also confirm that no “strengthening” piece was fitted between the inner and outer cill’s. (I’ve just checked my ‘72). That being the case I wonder if that was
the purpose of the triangle plate between the rear inner wing and the top of the inner cill. Otherwise I largely agree with comments made by Randall Williams though, I use self tappers to hold panels together rather than pop rivets. If you would like to see to view my Facebook blog please let me know and I’ll send you the link.
There were no sill stiffener pieces in my TR4A, actually there wasn't much good metal
at all in the sills. It appears that your A and B posts are usable, mine weren't, at least not at
the base connections at the floor. I've re-constructed all of those locations but it was not
the most pleasant work.
A big like for the videos, keep on going !
Really like the work you are doing. I need to do some of what you are doing on my 75 TR6, but I don`t have the welding ability , so I am lining up some help. Keep up the good work and video`s
Yours had more metal than MGB I owned. The sills on mine were bondo and newspaper. That was in the '70s so I scrapped it. Eventually I was able to get a solid Austin Healey.
If it were possible I would give you more than one thumb up.
You really do that perfectly. And by the way, that was a very good drawing and excellent explanation. It's really fun to watch the restoration.
Great new voice over format Elin keep up the good work.
Elin, Like Sean, I am sure that the TR4A, TR6 etc. did not have any strengthener pieces in the sills. The Spitfire has a three-piece (inner, baffle and outer), but the TRs and Stags just inner and outer. I suspect that your "short strengthener" was a previous repair of the extended flange on the floor.
I also suggest that you take a look at the sill front and rear end caps to make sure you get the correct profile when assembling the floor/inner sill/outer sill. Otherwise, as usual, a very informative video, so thanks. My TR6 project has rot as bad as yours... next up is replacement of floors, sills and footwell panels !
Yes, I agree :) I didn't do my homework LOL. So it will be a reinforced sill I guess as it is all together now. And yes, I did the cap trick. Next video coming soon. Thanks
@@RustyBeauties With that extra strength you can always turn it into an off-road 4x4 TR6!
The hole on the frame on the side by the rear wheel well, if I'm correct, is for the LIFT JACK. But, I could be wrong.
My TR6 is built exactly the same way as that one. Only the floor, inner sill and rocker panel No 3rd (strengthener) piece of metal in the middle. I'm pretty sure mine is factory. It's a Georgia car and has never been messed with.
Yep, that was a bit of overkill LOL. Next time I will do my homework first :)
I hope the extra sheet of steel doesn't affect other things like transmission tunnel and weather stripping installation.
good point bob @@bobadams179
Ohhh mate... I it is pretty much like Titanic now. I hope you guys got it for symbolic price as it needs to be build pretty much from ground-up (literally).
Yes, the price was more thank right :)
hi elin your video channel is amazing to watch and i really enjoyed it bob 20+
Hi Elin,
May be too late as you've progressed beyond my suggestions but maybe another poor bloke can be helped. You've already lost the geometry of the car... If it indeed had any to begin with. When you've got the apost and tub mount floating up and down and all around, it's lost. Also the floors float long in the front so again it's lost. No worries however...just cut the body in half. Then much easier to repair front and rear half items not dimensionally critical. Then marry up to a good frame, assemble outer body, I know that sounds like a cluster...locate and like how floors and doors/sills look and weld them. Stress the whole thing. I hang a 55 gallon drum with water. Beware the new outer sills may not be the right curvature. No stiffener diaphragm in a TR6. You may have to jack the bottom of the outer sill to increase curvature to get the bottom flanges to meet the floor drop, and if you do, the top will need to be completely welded in place and possibly removed to the bench and clamped as there's nothing to jack against. The top flange of outer sill/inner sill/floor will locate fairly accurately, the bottom flange floor drop and outer sill will be 25mm off from mating together. Do in this order as its a pressing mistake, not a Elin mistake. I have cut many in half. A guy with your skill will have no problems, and importantly it saves 50 hours of drudgery. Love your stuff. Reed.
No worries, Reed, I didn't lose the geometry. The next video is coming soon. Everything went back together with no issues. The stiffner was overkill :) I agree. Somehow I had it in my head that there must be one inside, but it is too late now. It was all done :) It won't hurt
Wow, there's more empty space than steel on that body!
elin there no strengthener on tr6 just inner outer sills ,
Oops! :)
I think this 74 Tr 6 more worst than the 73 TR 6? Elin you need a straightening bench so you have fix points for the parts.
First. oooooh TR6 time
WOW Elin I will be going down this road soon on my tr3 in the next 2 weeks or so check my videos out if you haven't already.
I just watched a few episodes! Nice project. I subscribed and will keep watching, thanks!
Elvin, you are an inspiration to anyone who owns or has owned these wonderful cars.I owned a TR3, 4 and one of the earliest Tr6’s shipped to North America, It was the only one I ever saw that still had the stainless piping between the fenders. Keep up the great work and please continue to share your videos
Lesson NEVER buy a project that was previously worked on. You will be dealing with time and stupidity.
greg etchason I agree, but these cars are 50 years old already and it is rare to find one that has never been worked on. Especially here in Canada. In the southern states yes, but that’s too far away for me. I actually enjoy the work so I am not worried if I have to undo previous “repairs” It is entertaining to see how some problems were “solved” :)