Excellent tutorial, I am ready to give it a try tomorrow. Thank you! Update, I just completed 3 drawers and they came out great. Thank you for the great instruction.
Great explanation of the jig! I appreciate that you showed the mistake at the end! I'm know for them! Ha!!! I'd be interested in seeing more about the router set up and collets for the guide! I've never used one before but have drooled over them every time I see them in the catalog
This jig is really easy to set up as you can see. I have a very expensive Leigh jig that requires multiple test runs every time I use it. The Porter Cable is so easy for repeatability. Thanks for watching
Great video. Thank you. Been around a lot of woodworking, but when it comes to drawer making, I've always done the dado joints and never really liked the long term durability of that joint. Finally decided to do the dovetail after all these years, and it's been a humbling experience this past week. But, practice makes perfect. Thanks again.
After researching and considering a dovetail jog for about a year, the reviews overwhelmingly favored the Porter Cable model. Appreciate you sharing your experience with it. While I'm also learning to do hand cut, you can't deny the time savings and consistency with this model. The directions are fairly easy to follow once you have a basic understanding of drawer construction. Using 1/2" Baltic birch plywood for the drawers I'm making now with the through dovetail template is a given over hand cut dovetails. It's less involved and time consuming when one already has limited time to keep the router bits (dovetail & straight for through dovetails) clean and sharp using handheld small diamond stone paddles.
Someone stated that the instructions for this jig were awful. I have one and I agree. For example, there is no section that lists specific corrective actions that should be taken for specific faults (e.g. loose joint, proud joint, the opposite of a proud joint). In addition, there is nothing in the "manual" that discusses when to use a different offset. Thank goodness for TH-cam videos and blogs about this jig. It would be nice if the "manual" had at least one example that listed the steps from set up to finished joint in detail with decent photos. The photos in the "manual" are a joke. Finally, Paul thank you very much for your video. It helped a great deal especially since I have been away from the jig for over a year and many bits of trial and error learning had slipped away.
Phil Stevens : from page 24: FITTING AND TROUBLESHOOTING For joints that are too loose, move the template toward you and recut the tenon board. For joints that are too tight, move the template away from you and recut the tenon board
Phil Stevens I’m glad that my video helped. Honestly I love this jig. I had a Leigh jig that costs like 5 times more and it was awfully difficult to set up and get repeatable results.
@@PaulDesmondimakewoodthings that section refers to cutting a tenon. It does not work for half blinds. To fix a loose half blind you need to lower the bit. Found this on a small plate on the lower left of the jig.
I read in the book that you need to add 3/8s in to front and back making the length of the sides 3/4 in added over all . Is there any added length to back and front of drawer to get the correct dimension of width of drawer
Hi Paul, Thanks for your response to my question. Another one. If you use dovetails as opposed to a dowel/kreg joint how is the drawer side length changed as now the front and side slide into each other with the dovetail?
+Paul Carollo the only other way I can think that could happen is if the boards aren't square or they aren't square to the jig, or the jig itself is bent or out of square
+jointheresistence123 that's news to me but I think it has to be 11/32 or it won't work because of the spacing with the bushing. Unless there is a different bushing available. I'm sure any 11/32 bit will do the job. It should not matter if it's Porter Cable
+Roger Smith the jig comes with bits that match the model of the jig. The DT bits are 17/32 13/32 and 9/32 depending on the model of jig. The router guides also come with the jig
I have saved this video because the instructions are so clear I can use it any time as a reminder how to set up the Porter Cable jig and drawer sides to make good dovetails. This info may be in the manual, but it is much easier to refer to this video. I appreciate the note about setting the offset guide to center the drawer side.
Mine is set at about 5/8” for the depth. If you start there and do some tests pieces of the same thickness of your workpiece you can then adjust a little up or down to dial in the fit.
ive watched many videos on the Porter Cable dove tail jig and this is the first one that gave me the confidence to give it a shot. Thanks for the great vid. By the way, what size collar are you using on the router ?
I haven't had the opportunity to try the other pins yet. I should probably do that and do another video since it's been a good while since I've posted anything new.
Well it's two years later and I haven't used my jig yet. The front in the back board lengths are obviously cut to the correct size but the side pieces if you're doing half blind dovetails should be cut a little shorter than the length of the drawer. My question is how much shorter?
Gino Asci it’s not really that critical of a dimension as long as the completed drawer isn’t linger than the depth of the carcass that its going into. Basically your side pieces will be your desired final depth minus 2x the distance from the end of the pins to the outside of the front. So if your front and back are 1/2 thick and your pins are 3/8 then you take your final depth and add 1/4” x2 or 1/2” to give you the length of the side pieces.
Hi Paul, read some of the comments below about not explaining the router setup. I have never used a dovetail jig but assume only the depth of cut has to be set on the router!?! Is there a depth setup scale which comes with the PC jig? Just subscribed to your channel 👍
+Robert Williamson there are depth gauges on the jig to set the bit depth to. They are adjustable so that once you do your initial test cuts and get the bit height perfect you set the guage at that depth and from that point in you don't have to do any tests. You can just use the guage to set the depth and rock on. If the joint is too loose you adjust to make a deeper cut and if it's too tight you go shallower. Thanks for watching and subscribing
Roger, I really just feel like the Porter Cable is easier to set up each time than the Leigh, especially if significant time has passed in between uses. I haven’t used the PC in probably 6 months but I could set it up and be ready to cut in a matter of a few minutes. With the Leigh it was always a longer process going page by page through the manual and doing several test cuts. I ended up selling the Leigh jig and I don’t miss it
In the instructions, it mentions that board width is important. Inch plus 1/4 is ideal for full sized joints. That is, 5 1/4, 10 1/4 etc. This allows you to align the edge of the board with the left side of a finger and all will be symmetrical. The jig is a very fine product and your video is helpful also. Good work.
+blackbelttube you still need a jig to do dovetails. I don't think there is any way to do them freehand without a jig. The jig allows precise cutting so that the joints fits perfectly. There are some dovetail jigs that utilize the router table but the only way I know to do them without is cutting by hand with a saw and chisels.
+Bobby Stanley I don’t think so Bobby. I actually ended up selling my $600 24” Leigh Jig because I prefer the Porter Cable. Only reason to need a bigger one is if you are building something with really wide sides that wouldn’t fit in the jig.
Yeah you can certainly adjust both the bit depth for different thickness and the jig itself adjusts for the thickness automatically by how the workpiece is mounted in it. Good question
I wish you wouldn’t have skipped the router depth part. You said at the beginning that you were going to do the video as if you hadn’t used the jig before and then you skip parts of your setup because “I already did it the other day”. I do have a question though.
Mohammad Awaisbutt Amazon has it but so do many other retailers like Woodcraft and probably Rockler as well PORTER-CABLE 4212 12-Inch Deluxe Dovetail Jig www.amazon.com/dp/B0006AAS8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vVpQCbD5D36HH
excellent for finishing job but I dont know how to st the router up w, just bought the jig today, but it didnt come with enogh parts to get tro point where your video starts, have to buy a 1/2 collet which i dont know what it is, still no idea how to set up the Jig.
I found the most accurate way to set the board to the jig, ➗ the thickness of the stock in half for example 3/4" ÷ 2 is 3/8" then measure from outside edge of the verticle stock that is clamped in the jig to the tips of the jig 3/8" checking full width of the stock to be cut , I also added flat washers to the bolts that hold the black offset stop to prevent twisting as the screw is tightened, and to set the router depth gage and to check that the board is even between the guide pins of the template use drill bits to set these..
Can you cut through dovetails with this jig in the video or do you need more stuff? I mean does the through dovetail jig come with this setup. What model router are you using.
+TeleWacker yes you can cut through dovetails with this jig. You use the "through dovetail and box joint template" spoiler: you can also cut box joints with it.
I like your video but respectfully disagree with you on the Leigh jig. I think it is far superior and very easy to set up. However it is a lot more expensive
Vladimir Lopez I guess we all have our own opinion. I had both jigs and I preferred the porter cable so I ended up selling the Leigh. The Leigh was certainly better built and more flexible because of the variable spacing but for me at least, the Porter Cable is easier to use. Thanks for watching and commenting though. I do appreciate it.
I understand the jig needs to be "played around" with until it comes out right, but I can't get my dovetails to fit as smoothly as in your vid. Mine come out beautiful looking but are so tight there is no way I'm getting glue in there. I've tried adjusting the bit for a shallower cut as directed in the manual but that just gives me a tight dovetail except with a gap. Can you provide a specific remedy I might try?
Yeah maybe I got lucky. I may just deliberately screw up all the settings on the jig and the router and do another video from the beginning to see how they turn out. The main variables are the bit height and the alignment of the jig to the front board.
Paul Desmond Thank you. I agree and think everything is set ok. I cut probably 10-12 joints yesterday and got close. I keep reducing the bit height 1/64" and cut the next one but I've decreased the height a total of nearly 1/8". I need to get some more "practice" stock and try some more. I will go visit my local Woodcraft and see if they can help.
@@daryld8901 setting the comb template back causes you to cut longer pins. Means they'll protrude more out the sides. Comb too far forward the pins will be short of the outside of the tail board. Bit up and down determines the tightness of the joint. Because the bit is upside down cone shaped. So the further out you stick the bit the skinnier it cuts. Which is backwards of how you'd think things would work. This whole jig is all inside out and backwards. Which is why it is such a bear to setup.
I am in the process of building my wife a computer desk. I am using the Porter Cable dovetail jig (first time) to build the drawers. I need the drawers to be exactly 22" deep using 1/2" birch plywood. Using a through dovetail, I cut the plywood full length of drawer, correct? Using half blind, do I cut the sides 1/4" shorter for front and back, 1/2" overall?
+Curtis Bates why is the depth so critical? You would have to make your side pieces shorter by whatever there is from the front of the drawer to the tail of the side piece subtracting that difference for front and back assuming you will do half blind on the back too.
Paul, I have done a lot of remodeling/woodwork on my home. I've even built a 16' x 24' shop. This is the first time I have built furniture. The measurement is critical I reckon because I'm anal and I want this as close to perfect as possible ( it is for my wife). I really like my Porter Cable dovetail jig. I've played with it a little and ready to put it to the test. Everyone on my woodworking FB group either has it on their wishlist or has fulfilled that wish by buying one. --lol.
You sound like a Porter cable sales person . You would be into you 2nd hr struggling with this if you had no experience with this jig. Not saying this or any other jigs are not worth the struggle but they are far more difficult to set up and use than you showed. The half blind Dovetail you demonstrated is the easiest of all as well. Through dovetails require a second set up with a straight bit. What you showed was after all the work was done. From here you could cut a 100 drawers just by feeding it. Any change to a different style tail , size, wood and it’s like starting all over. .
Great Video! My mini 7 degree 9/32 router bit which came with the Porter Cable jig needs replacing. Do you know where we can find a router bit to replace?
So you make all the dovetail cuts on the left side of the jig? I’ve getting ready to make my first dovetail drawers, but some videos show half the cuts happening on the other side of the jig. I’m confused.
Have you tried to to do more than one at a time? For smaller drawers, 4 inch for example, the width of the template should allow you to butt up two or more faces and sides and rout them together, cutting your production time in half.
Great video, I have a question. In the manual for the dovetail jig Porter Cable 4216 it states that the depth stop should be set at 3/8 from the bottom of the template, is that 3/8 measurement measured without having any wood inserted into the jig? Or do you set it to 3/8 after clamping your material into the jig? Not sure if you have the exact model i have, but it looks like it, Any help would be appreciated Thank you
I’m not in the shop right now to confirm but I believe that measurement is when the template is laying flat on the top of the jig with no wood in the jig.
The 3/8" setting is the bit depth but you have to add the thickness of the template to the 3/8", so the the template is 1/4" thick, add .375 + .250 = .625 or 5/8" the way I understood it.
You left out the hard part. Anyone can cut a drawer in a couple minutes once the jig is set up. How much time did it take you to set up and adjust every thing the first time ? The Porter cable jig is a good basic jig but you’re misleading people as to the difficulty setting it up.
Well I guess we are all weirdos that spend our hours in a dimly lit garage , talking to our tools. Saying , " we , are going to do this " even though we are alone.
For 30 years I've been wishing to get into woodworking and was now going to start. I was gonna buy a router and a Jig and make some small boxes for practice. y question is, I don't have a table saw so how does one go about squaring wood then? I'm assuming if wood is not square, it would be impossible to get perfect joinery. Also could you suggest a particular router that would be good for my needs? Thank You
Realistically all you need to get a square cut is a square and a handsaw. The table saw makes it easier but it can be done just as well and has for a long long time with hand tools. As far as routers, Porter Cable are super reliable but I’ve got Bosch and Craftsman routers as well and they all make the bit spin the same.
You're useless without the router set-up explained. If you can't figure that out you probably shouldn't be playing with sharp objects. Go back to your coloring book you ungrateful ass.
Bad teacher you don't show how to set up the depth of the router or what size length of bushing to us. That is the main part of showing how too us it. I will not watch any more of your videos.
Of course you are entitled to your opinion. I've used a $40 Craftsman jig before and a $500 Leigh jig as well. The Porter Cable jig is much easier than both to set up and provides predictable and repeatable results. Also I got mine on Craigslist for $60 and I see them for sale used all the time.
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Excellent tutorial, I am ready to give it a try tomorrow. Thank you!
Update, I just completed 3 drawers and they came out great. Thank you for the great instruction.
Great explanation of the jig! I appreciate that you showed the mistake at the end! I'm know for them! Ha!!! I'd be interested in seeing more about the router set up and collets for the guide! I've never used one before but have drooled over them every time I see them in the catalog
Maybe I'll do a follow up on the details. Thanks for watching
I use that same jig and love it!!!! Great job on showing a good demonstration of the jig. I need to play around with some box joints using the jig.
Yeah I'm looking forward to trying box joints and even sliding dovetails
Very Impressive! Ive never used one of those fixtures and have always been curious on how they work, Thx for sharing Paul!!
This jig is really easy to set up as you can see. I have a very expensive Leigh jig that requires multiple test runs every time I use it. The Porter Cable is so easy for repeatability. Thanks for watching
Thanks Paul !! Great informational video !! Good concise instructions !!!
Thanks paul. This video made me order it from Amazon. Cant wait.
Great video. Thank you. Been around a lot of woodworking, but when it comes to drawer making, I've always done the dado joints and never really liked the long term durability of that joint. Finally decided to do the dovetail after all these years, and it's been a humbling experience this past week. But, practice makes perfect. Thanks again.
Excellent video - me know thinks you are a very good teacher! Thanks for sharing!!!
Thanks very much for this .I just bought one and it is so much easier after a demonstration.
+738polarbear glad to help. Thanks for taking the time to watch
Great tutorial! Keeping it for reference when I get my jig out.
Very good video ,it was a real blessing , I give you a BIG thanks for sharing!
+Franklyn Harrison glad it was helpful to you and thanks for the comment
I'm about ready to tie my Router and Jig to my Boats Anchor Cable and use them as an anchor..... Great video.
Yeah it’s easy to get frustrated. That was how I felt about my Leigh Jig and then I got the Porter Cable and never looked back. Sold the Leigh jig.
Great video, was looking for a simple step guide on this jig.
+John Sherwood Thanks John
Definitely tight and uniform joints. Thanks Paul.
Thanks for taking the time to watch Ted
+Paul Desmond (imakewoodthings) My pleasure.
After researching and considering a dovetail jog for about a year, the reviews overwhelmingly favored the Porter Cable model. Appreciate you sharing your experience with it. While I'm also learning to do hand cut, you can't deny the time savings and consistency with this model. The directions are fairly easy to follow once you have a basic understanding of drawer construction. Using 1/2" Baltic birch plywood for the drawers I'm making now with the through dovetail template is a given over hand cut dovetails. It's less involved and time consuming when one already has limited time to keep the router bits (dovetail & straight for through dovetails) clean and sharp using handheld small diamond stone paddles.
Someone stated that the instructions for this jig were awful. I have one and I agree. For example, there is no section that lists specific corrective actions that should be taken for specific faults (e.g. loose joint, proud joint, the opposite of a proud joint). In addition, there is nothing in the "manual" that discusses when to use a different offset. Thank goodness for TH-cam videos and blogs about this jig. It would be nice if the "manual" had at least one example that listed the steps from set up to finished joint in detail with decent photos. The photos in the "manual" are a joke.
Finally, Paul thank you very much for your video. It helped a great deal especially since I have been away from the jig for over a year and many bits of trial and error learning had slipped away.
Phil Stevens : from page 24: FITTING AND TROUBLESHOOTING
For joints that are too loose, move the template toward you and recut the tenon board.
For joints that are too tight, move the template away from you and recut the tenon board
Phil Stevens I’m glad that my video helped. Honestly I love this jig. I had a Leigh jig that costs like 5 times more and it was awfully difficult to set up and get repeatable results.
@@PaulDesmondimakewoodthings that section refers to cutting a tenon. It does not work for half blinds. To fix a loose half blind you need to lower the bit. Found this on a small plate on the lower left of the jig.
Nicely done, Paul! I love my Porter Cable jig. Well worth the money.
Thanks Jason. This was so much easier to set up than the Leigh jig
Sweet! Doing my vanity drawers tomorrow
Nice video, love this jig. FYI Nice router
Dude, thank you! I've been afraid to even try this thing. I can't wait to put it to use now!
Glad it was helpful to you.
great video, thanks for sharing.
+Dave Horn thanks Dave
Thinking about buying this jig. Thank you for taking time to do this video. I'm a new woodworker and this was very informational.
+Eric Breindel you won't regret it. Thanks for watching
Excellent video thank you just ordered one from Amazon
I don’t think you will regret it. Thanks for watching and commenting
Good video, thanks
excellent video. you left nothing out. thanks for uploading it.
+Gino Asci thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.
Great video. Neat and to the point. What type/weight mallet is that?
Good job, thanks for share
Thank you Mauricio.
Perfect video for this setup. Great job.
+Dale Hammond thank you Dale.
Great video bro
IntimateGamer thanks. I appreciate you watching
I read in the book that you need to add 3/8s in to front and back making the length of the sides 3/4 in added over all . Is there any added length to back and front of drawer to get the correct dimension of width of drawer
Thank you very helpful.
A good tip is to keep the parts including router guide, bit and handle in a ziplock
About that bit depth. I just got this same jig. The depth gauge is sore set. Joints seem a little lose.
Nice! I've always wondered about these.
Thanks for the comment and for watching
Tip, put a piece of wood behind the right side of the pin board to eliminate tear out or splitting
Hi Paul, Thanks for your response to my question. Another one. If you use dovetails as opposed to a dowel/kreg joint how is the drawer side length changed as now the front and side slide into each other with the dovetail?
The very best jug for me
+Ernest Meeks me too
I'm centering pieces in the jig and adjusting the offset guide.
+Paul Carollo the only other way I can think that could happen is if the boards aren't square or they aren't square to the jig, or the jig itself is bent or out of square
Wow looks a million dollars
Great video!! New subscriber here!!!
Hey thanks a lot. I hope to have more videos out in the coming months as I build a CNC but thanks for subscribing
Thanks so much!
what router bit did you use
I noticed the straight cut bit 11/32 isn't sold any longer. Are you able to use the 13/32 straight bit along with the 17/32 dovetail bit?
+jointheresistence123 that's news to me but I think it has to be 11/32 or it won't work because of the spacing with the bushing. Unless there is a different bushing available. I'm sure any 11/32 bit will do the job. It should not matter if it's Porter Cable
I am thinking about buying this setup and Im just wondering what size bit are you using and which guide on the router are you using?
+Roger Smith the jig comes with bits that match the model of the jig. The DT bits are 17/32 13/32 and 9/32 depending on the model of jig. The router guides also come with the jig
I have saved this video because the instructions are so clear I can use it any time as a reminder how to set up the Porter Cable jig and drawer sides to make good dovetails. This info may be in the manual, but it is much easier to refer to this video. I appreciate the note about setting the offset guide to center the drawer side.
Thanks for the positive comment. I’m really happy the video was helpful to you
I need to know how to set the depth, that's the 1 question I have in this whole process
Mine is set at about 5/8” for the depth. If you start there and do some tests pieces of the same thickness of your workpiece you can then adjust a little up or down to dial in the fit.
ive watched many videos on the Porter Cable dove tail jig and this is the first one that gave me the confidence to give it a shot. Thanks for the great vid. By the way, what size collar are you using on the router ?
Gregg, I'm glad you found this useful and thanks for the comment. I'll check the collar size when I get back to the shop and I'll get back to you.
thanks Paul,, btw.. did you get a chance to try the other pins?
I haven't had the opportunity to try the other pins yet. I should probably do that and do another video since it's been a good while since I've posted anything new.
The collar is 3/4”
Well it's two years later and I haven't used my jig yet.
The front in the back board lengths are obviously cut to the correct size but the side pieces if you're doing half blind dovetails should be cut a little shorter than the length of the drawer.
My question is how much shorter?
Gino Asci it’s not really that critical of a dimension as long as the completed drawer isn’t linger than the depth of the carcass that its going into. Basically your side pieces will be your desired final depth minus 2x the distance from the end of the pins to the outside of the front. So if your front and back are 1/2 thick and your pins are 3/8 then you take your final depth and add 1/4” x2 or 1/2” to give you the length of the side pieces.
Please do box joints
Hi Paul, read some of the comments below about not explaining the router setup. I have never used a dovetail jig but assume only the depth of cut has to be set on the router!?! Is there a depth setup scale which comes with the PC jig? Just subscribed to your channel 👍
+Robert Williamson there are depth gauges on the jig to set the bit depth to. They are adjustable so that once you do your initial test cuts and get the bit height perfect you set the guage at that depth and from that point in you don't have to do any tests. You can just use the guage to set the depth and rock on. If the joint is too loose you adjust to make a deeper cut and if it's too tight you go shallower. Thanks for watching and subscribing
Why do you like the porter cable over the Leigh?
Roger, I really just feel like the Porter Cable is easier to set up each time than the Leigh, especially if significant time has passed in between uses. I haven’t used the PC in probably 6 months but I could set it up and be ready to cut in a matter of a few minutes. With the Leigh it was always a longer process going page by page through the manual and doing several test cuts. I ended up selling the Leigh jig and I don’t miss it
What router do you recommend? are you using the 1 3/4 hp?
Yes its the Porter Cable 690 1-3/4 HP
In the instructions, it mentions that board width is important. Inch plus 1/4 is ideal for full sized joints. That is, 5 1/4, 10 1/4 etc. This allows you to align the edge of the board with the left side of a finger and all will be symmetrical. The jig is a very fine product and your video is helpful also. Good work.
Thanks for pointing that detail out. That is important indeed
If you own a router table, would it be overkill to buy this jig? I mean can a router table do this? Newbie question.
+blackbelttube you still need a jig to do dovetails. I don't think there is any way to do them freehand without a jig. The jig allows precise cutting so that the joints fits perfectly. There are some dovetail jigs that utilize the router table but the only way I know to do them without is cutting by hand with a saw and chisels.
Great video. Would it be worth it to buy that bigger jig for Like $600 or so?
+Bobby Stanley I don’t think so Bobby. I actually ended up selling my $600 24” Leigh Jig because I prefer the Porter Cable. Only reason to need a bigger one is if you are building something with really wide sides that wouldn’t fit in the jig.
Paul Desmond thanks for the reply!
Do you need a plunge router to use this jig or can u use a fixed base router Thank you !
No you can use a fixed base router. That is what I used for this video.
Had to buy two of them about a month ago they are definitely the way to go awesome vid btw
Thank you!
Hi Paul, What is the purpose of the climb cut before you start routing through the guides?
The climb cut cuts the fibers so that you don’t have tear out (or as much) as you come back out with the bit spinning that direction
Can you do 1/2 stock with that? Thanks for the video.
Yeah you can certainly adjust both the bit depth for different thickness and the jig itself adjusts for the thickness automatically by how the workpiece is mounted in it. Good question
@@PaulDesmondimakewoodthings Great thank you so much for getting back to me.
I made some improvements to the Porter Cable jig to get more consistent results. Video here th-cam.com/video/hTRCSAM-YTk/w-d-xo.html
how can I learn how to do this
Hola me acaba de llegar una porter cable tengo el catalogo pero me gusta ver los videos de TH-cam pero no entiendo nada de inglés
I wish you wouldn’t have skipped the router depth part. You said at the beginning that you were going to do the video as if you hadn’t used the jig before and then you skip parts of your setup because “I already did it the other day”.
I do have a question though.
from where buy this jig ? please show the web site
Mohammad Awaisbutt Amazon has it but so do many other retailers like Woodcraft and probably Rockler as well PORTER-CABLE 4212 12-Inch Deluxe Dovetail Jig www.amazon.com/dp/B0006AAS8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vVpQCbD5D36HH
excellent for finishing job but I dont know how to st the router up w, just bought the jig today, but it didnt come with enogh parts to get tro point where your video starts, have to buy a 1/2 collet which i dont know what it is, still no idea how to set up the Jig.
I found the most accurate way to set the board to the jig, ➗ the thickness of the stock in half for example 3/4" ÷ 2 is 3/8" then measure from outside edge of the verticle stock that is clamped in the jig to the tips of the jig 3/8" checking full width of the stock to be cut , I also added flat washers to the bolts that hold the black offset stop to prevent twisting as the screw is tightened, and to set the router depth gage and to check that the board is even between the guide pins of the template use drill bits to set these..
what kind of wood is that, Poplar?
The wood is Poplar.
I’ve had to learn by (try and fail)
Can you cut through dovetails with this jig in the video or do you need more stuff? I mean does the through dovetail jig come with this setup.
What model router are you using.
+TeleWacker yes you can cut through dovetails with this jig. You use the "through dovetail and box joint template" spoiler: you can also cut box joints with it.
I like your video but respectfully disagree with you on the Leigh jig. I think it is far superior and very easy to set up. However it is a lot more expensive
Vladimir Lopez I guess we all have our own opinion. I had both jigs and I preferred the porter cable so I ended up selling the Leigh. The Leigh was certainly better built and more flexible because of the variable spacing but for me at least, the Porter Cable is easier to use. Thanks for watching and commenting though. I do appreciate it.
Half the video should be setting up the router = as important.
+Kirk McCoy thanks for the tip.
Get the download for the Woodstock jig manual. It comes with stock thickness chart for setting the fences, bit and such. It's a must have.
I just bought this jig and I've never cut dovetails. Thanks for the tutorial!
+Christopher Stearman thank you for watching
+Christopher Stearman thanks for watching
Hi, how thick is the tables?
I understand the jig needs to be "played around" with until it comes out right, but I can't get my dovetails to fit as smoothly as in your vid. Mine come out beautiful looking but are so tight there is no way I'm getting glue in there. I've tried adjusting the bit for a shallower cut as directed in the manual but that just gives me a tight dovetail except with a gap. Can you provide a specific remedy I might try?
Yeah maybe I got lucky. I may just deliberately screw up all the settings on the jig and the router and do another video from the beginning to see how they turn out. The main variables are the bit height and the alignment of the jig to the front board.
Paul Desmond Thank you. I agree and think everything is set ok. I cut probably 10-12 joints yesterday and got close. I keep reducing the bit height 1/64" and cut the next one but I've decreased the height a total of nearly 1/8". I need to get some more "practice" stock and try some more. I will go visit my local Woodcraft and see if they can help.
From what I understand the template placement front to back will adjust a lose or tight fitting dovetail not the bit depth.
@@daryld8901 setting the comb template back causes you to cut longer pins. Means they'll protrude more out the sides. Comb too far forward the pins will be short of the outside of the tail board. Bit up and down determines the tightness of the joint. Because the bit is upside down cone shaped. So the further out you stick the bit the skinnier it cuts. Which is backwards of how you'd think things would work. This whole jig is all inside out and backwards. Which is why it is such a bear to setup.
Didn't tell how long to cut the boards for a half blind dovetail. Other than that, good video.
Curtis Bates I'm not sure what you mean. The length of the boards has zero bearing on the joints.
I am in the process of building my wife a computer desk. I am using the Porter Cable dovetail jig (first time) to build the drawers. I need the drawers to be exactly 22" deep using 1/2" birch plywood. Using a through dovetail, I cut the plywood full length of drawer, correct? Using half blind, do I cut the sides 1/4" shorter for front and back, 1/2" overall?
+Curtis Bates why is the depth so critical? You would have to make your side pieces shorter by whatever there is from the front of the drawer to the tail of the side piece subtracting that difference for front and back assuming you will do half blind on the back too.
Paul, I have done a lot of remodeling/woodwork on my home. I've even built a 16' x 24' shop. This is the first time I have built furniture. The measurement is critical I reckon because I'm anal and I want this as close to perfect as possible ( it is for my wife). I really like my Porter Cable dovetail jig. I've played with it a little and ready to put it to the test. Everyone on my woodworking FB group either has it on their wishlist or has fulfilled that wish by buying one. --lol.
You sound like a Porter cable sales person . You would be into you 2nd hr struggling with this if you had no experience with this jig. Not saying this or any other jigs are not worth the struggle but they are far more difficult to set up and use than you showed. The half blind Dovetail you demonstrated is the easiest of all as well. Through dovetails require a second set up with a straight bit. What you showed was after all the work was done. From here you could cut a 100 drawers just by feeding it. Any change to a different style tail , size, wood and it’s like starting all over.
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Great Video! My mini 7 degree 9/32 router bit which came with the Porter Cable jig needs replacing. Do you know where we can find a router bit to replace?
Your momma. 🤣.
So you make all the dovetail cuts on the left side of the jig?
I’ve getting ready to make my first dovetail drawers, but some videos show half the cuts happening on the other side of the jig.
I’m confused.
What about the router setup?
Have you tried to to do more than one at a time? For smaller drawers, 4 inch for example, the width of the template should allow you to butt up two or more faces and sides and rout them together, cutting your production time in half.
Great video, I have a question. In the manual for the dovetail jig Porter Cable 4216 it states that the depth stop should be set at 3/8 from the bottom of the template, is that 3/8 measurement measured without having any wood inserted into the jig? Or do you set it to 3/8 after clamping your material into the jig? Not sure if you have the exact model i have, but it looks like it, Any help would be appreciated
Thank you
I’m not in the shop right now to confirm but I believe that measurement is when the template is laying flat on the top of the jig with no wood in the jig.
The 3/8" setting is the bit depth but you have to add the thickness of the template to the 3/8", so the the template is 1/4" thick, add .375 + .250 = .625 or 5/8" the way I understood it.
You left out the hard part. Anyone can cut a drawer in a couple minutes once the jig is set up. How much time did it take you to set up and adjust every thing the first time ? The Porter cable jig is a good basic jig but you’re misleading people as to the difficulty setting it up.
Well I guess we are all weirdos that spend our hours in a dimly lit garage , talking to our tools. Saying , " we , are going to do this " even though we are alone.
Lol lol 😂 love it
Set it up.the same way doesnt work. Not even close
jim f I’d like to help if I can. What went wrong? What was specifically wrong about the fit?
For 30 years I've been wishing to get into woodworking and was now going to start. I was gonna buy a router and a Jig and make some small boxes for practice. y question is, I don't have a table saw so how does one go about squaring wood then? I'm assuming if wood is not square, it would be impossible to get perfect joinery. Also could you suggest a particular router that would be good for my needs? Thank You
Realistically all you need to get a square cut is a square and a handsaw. The table saw makes it easier but it can be done just as well and has for a long long time with hand tools. As far as routers, Porter Cable are super reliable but I’ve got Bosch and Craftsman routers as well and they all make the bit spin the same.
Strike a square line and cut to the line.
useless without the router set-up explained
+Todc do you own this jig? It's easy to set up the router if you read the manual. It's not worth spending time on in my opinion
You're useless without the router set-up explained. If you can't figure that out you probably shouldn't be playing with sharp objects. Go back to your coloring book you ungrateful ass.
Bad teacher you don't show how to set up the depth of the router or what size length of bushing to us. That is the main part of showing how too us it. I will not watch any more of your videos.
Have the day you deserve
This video is useless without showing the procedure to set the router properly.
bobfre1
Seems like it works nicely, but there's no way its worth $200 for a router guide and clamp. This shouldn't be priced over $40, and possibly less.
Of course you are entitled to your opinion. I've used a $40 Craftsman jig before and a $500 Leigh jig as well. The Porter Cable jig is much easier than both to set up and provides predictable and repeatable results. Also I got mine on Craigslist for $60 and I see them for sale used all the time.
You're in luck then because the Harbor Freight Dovetail jig is $37.99 all day long.
Stodoys scripts includes most of woodworking plans you can find
Rename this cutting dovetail for drawers, as you did not show how to make the bottom so its not a drawer!
Just calm down