As a woodworking instructor of over 30 years, I really enjoyed your entusiastic, clear, informative delivery. Keep up the good work. The only technical point I want to make is - your are producing a "cove" cut not a "curve" cut. The cove cut you made by tilting the blade (just figured that out myself not long ago) probably could be called an "ogee"curve, by the profile it created. I just call it cool. I really like the idea of flipping the small pieces at 90 degrees - the crosscut pattern. To make it a safer operation, use a second fence on the other side of your workpiece. If you make your last pass very, very thin, it will reduce the sanding you have to do.
@@TheLovelyMissBeans well as a total rookie i've been gravitating towards creators who are great teachers and make me genuinely excited to try new projects. SLC checks the boxes :D
Happy New Year to you. Norm Abram used to use two fences when doing this. They run parralel to each other, the gap being the width of the board you are cutting. It helps to keep the piece you are cutting under more control and safer.
As a teen, about 30 years ago, I saw an article on a woodworking periodical about a gut that made very advanced furniture on just a table saw. I didn't do a very good job of keeping track of things. But the idea was instead of jointers, thickness planer or even a router; he used various sleds to get the same results. Really wish I could find the article to see how much of my memory is correct. Thanks for sharing.
You are a brave man! Hey, I just saw a PVC Push Block??? I know early on you made a number of creations out of PVC pipe. But I couldn’t find that little do-dad. I’d love to see that as it looks really stable.
I made it a few years ago when I started to build with wood. I used hot glue on the bottom for grip and it works very well, plus it's easy to add more. Here is the video if you're interested in watching: th-cam.com/video/9bjOJ6aBYtM/w-d-xo.html
Great Video, I use a homemade Cove Jig, It is 4 pieces of wood with wing nuts on each corner to adjust the width and angle, holds the wood in place nicely, But like you said, its only for shorter cuts, Be safe.
I am not the bravest guy on the table saw. I think I will stick to the router table for such cuts, but it was very interesting and definitively something keep the concept just in case I need it in the future.
Hals Wood Shop. Very Good Lesson. What book did you learn these from? It would be good to refer to a Table Saw Book for these cuts and more. I have read them for years, but you showed them well.
Funny you should post this so soon after I just made some zero plates for my DeWalt table saw. I needed to clearance a section of the plate 3/8” so that it’d stay flat when the saw was fully raised. I initially tried to do this with my small miter saw, which worked but was very time consuming and didn’t look the greatest even after sanding. On my second try, I tried using the table saw, sideways, which worked great until it didn’t. The piece caught funny and shot back into me in the chest and destroyed the piece. That stung for a bit! After some thought, I found that putting guide blocks behind the piece and in front allowed me to work it from the side of the saw. I decided not to post a video of me doing this because of the extreme danger using a table saw as it is NOT intended. But it does work amazingly and creates a nifty curved clearance.
This may have been said, but "kickback" may be minimized/eliminated by either placing the rip fence on the "front side" of the blade -- the side that the teeth are turning down toward the table or by clamping two parallel fences on the work surface.
I _think_ I saw a really old video from Izzy Swan where he made some sort of jig to hold the work pieces as he did something similar. If so, that could make it more steady and safe. But I'm too lazy to go look for that or a similar video myself just now.
Wow! That’s a cool technique. I’ve never seen that done with a table saw. Looks so cool! I realize how dangerous that is and should not be attempted if someone is not extremely familiar and experienced with their table saw.
Thanks for a great explanation and demonstration. This is called a cove cut. Most often used for trim molding. As you demonstrated it can be used for many things. I would not say the table saw was not designed to do this. I would say it is an advanced technique since using a table saw in this manner has been around a very long time. Additionally if you want to learn how to make cove cuts on a miter saw checkout Josh Wright. If you want see some truly crazy and safely done cove cuts checkout Izzy Swan. I got fascinated with cove cuts a few months ago. As always when using a table saw be careful and always have control of the wood. There are several easily made jigs that make cove cuts safer and easier to make.
That second cut is one round over bit away from being baseboard. Please, if you just got your first saw, do not try this. I’ve got ten years in cabinetry and am tempted but still nervous to try this.
With cutting plywood like this, it's important to wear a vapor protection mask, as the glue in the plywood has formaldehyde in it. With those wider cuts, there's a lot of glue being moved into the air.
Enjoyed watching and listening! Happy new year!
An ideal project for me. new saw owner
As a woodworking instructor of over 30 years, I really enjoyed your entusiastic, clear, informative delivery. Keep up the good work. The only technical point I want to make is - your are producing a "cove" cut not a "curve" cut. The cove cut you made by tilting the blade (just figured that out myself not long ago) probably could be called an "ogee"curve, by the profile it created. I just call it cool. I really like the idea of flipping the small pieces at 90 degrees - the crosscut pattern. To make it a safer operation, use a second fence on the other side of your workpiece. If you make your last pass very, very thin, it will reduce the sanding you have to do.
Thank you, I appreciate that you took the time to leave me such a thoughtful comment.
as a new subscriber, you've taken the spot of my favorite woodworking channel.
Wow, that's some very large shoes to fill. I feel honored, thank you
I am so curious to know who has been DEFEATED!!! 😆
@@TheLovelyMissBeans well as a total rookie i've been gravitating towards creators who are great teachers and make me genuinely excited to try new projects. SLC checks the boxes :D
I like the way you explained it.
Thank you
really cool! -Michigan love
WOW! I'm building your sled and also will use this technique to really set my steamer trunk project to next level!! Thanks I'm subbed
Happy New Year to you. Norm Abram used to use two fences when doing this. They run parralel to each other, the gap being the width of the board you are cutting. It helps to keep the piece you are cutting under more control and safer.
Thank you Andy. I did not realize this technique has been used for that long. A second board would definitely be useful.
@@SpecificLove7 I have never tried it myself, bit too much of a coward really but thought it was amazing when Norm made cove mouldings
I would have thought that 2 fences may increases the chance of kickback, if your board twists like he showed in the video.
@@jeffcarr392 apparently not, the second fence stops the board moving away from the first fence, Kind of like a train track.
As a teen, about 30 years ago, I saw an article on a woodworking periodical about a gut that made very advanced furniture on just a table saw. I didn't do a very good job of keeping track of things. But the idea was instead of jointers, thickness planer or even a router; he used various sleds to get the same results. Really wish I could find the article to see how much of my memory is correct. Thanks for sharing.
If you ever do, please let me know, I would be very interested.
Happy New Year to all of SLC. I can honestly say I have never seen this done.
God Bless & Thanks For Sharing!
Thank you so much Anthony
Cool !!
You are a brave man! Hey, I just saw a PVC Push Block??? I know early on you made a number of creations out of PVC pipe. But I couldn’t find that little do-dad. I’d love to see that as it looks really stable.
I made it a few years ago when I started to build with wood. I used hot glue on the bottom for grip and it works very well, plus it's easy to add more.
Here is the video if you're interested in watching:
th-cam.com/video/9bjOJ6aBYtM/w-d-xo.html
I do like the pvc push block. Ngl, every now and then, I kinda want to see a pvc build just for a goof. 😆
So cool
Great Video, I use a homemade Cove Jig, It is 4 pieces of wood with wing nuts on each corner to adjust the width and angle, holds the wood in place nicely,
But like you said, its only for shorter cuts, Be safe.
I am not the bravest guy on the table saw. I think I will stick to the router table for such cuts, but it was very interesting and definitively something keep the concept just in case I need it in the future.
It's always nice to have a backup
Hals Wood Shop. Very Good Lesson. What book did you learn these from? It would be good to refer to a Table Saw Book for these cuts and more. I have read them for years, but you showed them well.
I was thinking you can make a curf OK for the front face of a cabinet
Funny you should post this so soon after I just made some zero plates for my DeWalt table saw. I needed to clearance a section of the plate 3/8” so that it’d stay flat when the saw was fully raised. I initially tried to do this with my small miter saw, which worked but was very time consuming and didn’t look the greatest even after sanding. On my second try, I tried using the table saw, sideways, which worked great until it didn’t. The piece caught funny and shot back into me in the chest and destroyed the piece. That stung for a bit! After some thought, I found that putting guide blocks behind the piece and in front allowed me to work it from the side of the saw. I decided not to post a video of me doing this because of the extreme danger using a table saw as it is NOT intended. But it does work amazingly and creates a nifty curved clearance.
Glad you walked away from something that could have been bad.
Steve Ramsey over at WWMM did a box using this technique to get some cool profile to the sides a long time ago.
Thank you Leif. This goes to show how much I still can learn in the woodworking field.
This may have been said, but "kickback" may be minimized/eliminated by either placing the rip fence on the "front side" of the blade -- the side that the teeth are turning down toward the table or by clamping two parallel fences on the work surface.
I _think_ I saw a really old video from Izzy Swan where he made some sort of jig to hold the work pieces as he did something similar. If so, that could make it more steady and safe. But I'm too lazy to go look for that or a similar video myself just now.
Thank you for the information
Try using a mag I tic feather board for safety
Good idea, I should have thought of that, thank you
Featherboard was my first thought. Placement is critical, you don’t want to create a pinch point. Great video, as usual.
Wow! That’s a cool technique. I’ve never seen that done with a table saw. Looks so cool!
I realize how dangerous that is and should not be attempted if someone is not extremely familiar and experienced with their table saw.
This likes a parabola shaped profile (like the graph of x squared)
Thanks for a great explanation and demonstration.
This is called a cove cut. Most often used for trim molding. As you demonstrated it can be used for many things.
I would not say the table saw was not designed to do this. I would say it is an advanced technique since using a table saw in this manner has been around a very long time.
Additionally if you want to learn how to make cove cuts on a miter saw checkout Josh Wright.
If you want see some truly crazy and safely done cove cuts checkout Izzy Swan.
I got fascinated with cove cuts a few months ago. As always when using a table saw be careful and always have control of the wood. There are several easily made jigs that make cove cuts safer and easier to make.
Thank you, Lincoln, for all the great information
That second cut is one round over bit away from being baseboard.
Please, if you just got your first saw, do not try this. I’ve got ten years in cabinetry and am tempted but still nervous to try this.
With cutting plywood like this, it's important to wear a vapor protection mask, as the glue in the plywood has formaldehyde in it. With those wider cuts, there's a lot of glue being moved into the air.
That is a very good point, thank you for letting everybody know.