Please note, this is not an ultimate fix for all cracking issues, it only covers one of the most frequent reasons. For a detailed guide please click here - racingbrick.com/2020/04/lego-technic-42110-land-rover-defender-ultimate-repair-guide/
3:06 Even my wheels rotate backwards also the fake engine pistons work (I'm talking about my 4th gear /HI) Should I open my model and check the U joints again? Or I should check something else too...
Same here. I finished the build last night and the rear drivetrain runs sluggish and cracks when driven around. U-joints are fine. I really think the problem is in the rear drivetrain because running the front wheels goes fairly smooth. It's the rear wheels that are the problem. All the connections seem to be right, at first glance. Anyone got a fix or point in the right direction?
Great video. To all people who still have problems after this mod. Don't slide the u-joints all the way to the end of the axles. Let it be losen a little bit.The shaft will be restricted in it's movement If you slide the u joints all the way to the end of the shafts, which in turn will cause cracking noise and stop movement of the wheels. This solution together with the solution of racingbrick fixed my problem and the gearbox is running like a dream now.
Thank you for this fix video. After final assembly, I didn't have a cracking issue but noticed the selectors didn't seem to do anything. Spent 20 minutes trying to do a minimal disassembly and noticed that one of the joints was off set. Normally I keep them in line, but not this time. Fixed and the issue was resolved. Thanks.
Thank God for this video! I was A convinced I’d screwed up my first ever Lego model at the tender age of 41 and B virtually stripped it as far as I could thinking I’d reversed the difs... you’re right the instructions are wrong on the alignment of the universal joints... many thanks!
I had the same clicking issue and was able to properly align the U-joints without any disassembly (I accessed them from under the vehicle and through the passenger side door). I no longer experience any clicking at all and it runs silently in neutral, as intended! Thank you for the helpful, informative video and for saving my build! :D
Guys, I’ve spent a lot of time trying to find out what was the issue that caused the cracking noise and I think that the most popular “mistake” is in the fake engine itself. Little 2:1:1 pieces that are rotated by the axle in the engine might not be placed perfectly and then it becomes much harder to rotate while touching the wrong fake cylinder (red one). And sometimes when it cracks, the engine stops working on any other speed. It is because of the dark bluish grey connectors between the seats (and near the + - sticker). They just get further from each other and don’t let the gears rotate properly.
I have managed to solve the sticking wheel issue!! Took me a full strip down to find it. 1. Turn the vehicle upside down. 2. Look for the main gear on the rear differential. 3. Locate the small dark grey cog to the rear if the main diff gear. 4. Double check you have installed item "6261374" correctly page 495 of the manual. (Small grey + - o connector) Let me know if this solves your issue 😎🤙
That need to set UJ's correctly is very well known in motor engineering. Odd that Lego got one of them wrong. Well done for finding it and making this video. BobUK
Had an older manual, the 2 u-joints orientation was wrong, no clicking sound but pistons wouldn't run. aligned them per your recommendations and solved my issue. Thanks!
Thank you very much for your videos. I had the tension build, cracking issue in Hi 3rd and 4th, official Lego directions were wrong! Adjusted my u joints as shown here, and problem solved! You rock dude!
Thanks for this video, along with alot of people i thought i had done some thing wrong during the build. It's just going to be a display piece so my mind is at ease knowing this was a common problem.
Great video - my model suffered both issues, but now running much better - thanks! Very informative generally on the universal joint alignment too, I had no idea that it mattered.
If you still have issues I suggest to remove the body, then go through the whole drive train and double check everything as it is presented in this video - th-cam.com/video/t9VQGoqhOFs/w-d-xo.html It is also possible to disconnect the shafts going to and from the gearbox and check the sections separately by turning the gears manually. Here's a hint how can you remove the body in bigger pieces - facebook.com/Racingbrick/photos/a.642361079222005/1486442398147198/
Hello. Like your video very much. Just a short question. I have checked my U-joints and other stuff you proposed. And still have the same issue. Funny, when I put gear in R, all gears work perfectly without cracking sound (HI, LOW, all gears) and motor simulating cylinders movements. Only in D I have explained issues. Any comment on that? Thanks.
@@tom7956 I suggest to check this video - th-cam.com/video/t9VQGoqhOFs/w-d-xo.html In R your gearbox is not involved, the fake engine is driven directly so hi/lo and the gears does nothing. I suggest to remove the body, disconnect the shafts going to and from the gearbox and check the sections separately
I only have this issue when moving the defender forward in drive high or low, but when I move the defender backwards, even in drive high or low (or reverse - yes I know R bypasses) there are no cracks, albeit the pistons don't move completely smooth. Why is it cracking when my U joints are aligned?
I just finished stage one and found that when I spun one wheel the other was reversed. I reversed the differential multiple times without luck. I ended up tearing it apart. Right before attaching the gear box I tested the wheels and they spun the same way. After I attached it they were reversed. I've triple checked the gearbox. Do you know what's going on? I'm probably just going to continue.
Thank you soooooo much. Great advice, it fixed the problem, I am really glad you made this video. Just finished bag 2, I really enjoyed construction but this little bit was frustrating. Well done!!
Thanks for the great video. I've just got this set and the instructions have been corrected. It shows the correct alignment of the universal joints as you suggest.
During my last 2 medicopter shift, I spent my freetime to build this set. It was so frustrating to hear this creepy noise. I started to search the web instantly, and found this video very soon. I did everything as it mentioned, but first, I didn't get a good result. Double checked everything, finally I found out, that a pin is a bit out of it's place. Took that back, than everything worked as it should be. Thx! A+
Wow I hate it when I hear this noise when I try to play with my new LEGO Technic 42110 Land Rover Defender, but thanks to this video I can now play with my new LEGO Technic 42110 Land Rover Defender in peace.
SOLUTION FR + EN/ SOLUTION IN ENGLISH (translated by browser) BELOW FRENCH Si comme moi lors du premier montage, vous avez eu cette frustration en essayant votre nouveau Land Rover. Dans mon cas, après le premier montage et en dépit que tout soit bien monté ET que les arbres de transmission soient bien alignés, les vitesses craquaient en Low ou en High à partir de la 3ème vitesse. La 4ème vitesse en High craquait à mort. Bref, sans grand espoir, j’ai tout de même tenté un démontage et remontage complet MAIS en veillant à laisser pour CHAQUE engrenage (ou TOUT AUTRE PIÈCE TOURNANTE/MOBILE) un petit espace (juste ce qu’il faut pour que ça ne frotte pas), afin qu’il y ait un minimum de frottements entre les pièces mobiles et les pièces fixes. Ce qui a son importance vu le nombre d’axes et d’engrenages par lequel s’opère la transmission depuis les roues jusqu’aux 6 cylindres. Et là miracle, toutes les vitesses marchent sans craquer, même si ça manque toujours de fluidité (en 4ème High surtout). Mais ça ne craque plus jamais ! Tout ce que je peux vous dire, pour ceux qui (re)montent, c’est de bien tester la boite à vitesse (directement en 4ème High) dès que vous arrivez à l’étape de la pose du volant, en mettant les 4 roues en place au préalable bien sûr. N’hésitez pas à la faire rouler en l’accompagnant sur 2 à 3 mètres pour vous faire une bonne idée et ajuster si besoin est. Et une fois que c’est acceptable pour vous, vous pouvez continuer la suite en veillant à ne pas trop malmener la structure afin de ne pas compromettre les différents serrages établis. En espérant que ça en aidera pas mal et courage à ceux qui doivent redémonter. J’ai moi-même longuement hésiter à le faire sans savoir si ça en vaudrait le coup mais je ne pouvais pas me résigner à avoir un Lego à 150€ dont la fonction principale ne marche qu’à moitié. ____ If like me during the first assembly, you had this frustration while trying your new Land Rover. In my case, after the first assembly and despite everything being well assembled AND that the drive shafts are well aligned, the gears creaked in Low or in High from the 3rd gear. 4th gear in High creaked to death. In short, without much hope, I still tried a complete disassembly and reassembly BUT making sure to leave for EACH gear (or ANY OTHER ROTATING PART / MOBILE) a small space (just enough to keep it from rubbing step), so that there is a minimum of friction between the moving parts and the fixed parts. This is important given the number of axes and gears through which transmission takes place from the wheels to the 6 cylinders. And there miracle, all speeds work without cracking, even if it still lacks fluidity (especially in 4th High). But it never cracks again! All I can tell you, for those who (re)build, is to test the gearbox (directly in 4th High) as soon as you get to the stage of fitting the steering wheel, putting the 4 wheels in place beforehand of course. Do not hesitate to roll it by accompanying it for 2 to 3 meters to get a good idea and adjust if necessary. And once it is acceptable to you, you can continue following it while being careful not to manhandle the structure too much so as not to compromise the various tightenings established. Hopefully it will help a lot and courage for those who have to restart. I myself have long hesitated to do it without knowing if it would be worth it but I could not resign myself to having a Lego at 150 € whose main function works only halfway.
I made the Defender and looked carefully at all gears and orientation of the U-joints. No cracking noise when moving the Defender slow. At higher speed there is still cracking noise, despite I checked all your advised checkpoints.
Fantastic. Thanks so much for sharing. This fixed my set and is now working well. I emailed Lego 6 days ago about my set not working but have not heard a thing from them.
Just like land rover! It's a fantastic copy of the original 🤣 ! One thing remains : do the forum of this vehicle in order to resolve the lot of problems that have the land rovvies!
That's a nice explanation Getting better every review And really helps me a lot Keep going, keep helping us Better that the one who lives in Poland 😃😃😃
Thanks, we had only one of the universal joints out of line so the clicking was a bit quieter. You can remover the shaft by taking the front seats out. All sorted now.
Thanks to you very much, this problem make me can't sleep after finish building . At first, I think is there any wrong building made by me ? And now, after watching your video , I fix it ! It done!
So I built mine with the help of all of your videos (very recently I may add) and there was no cracking...at first. Now in high gears there seems to be cracking and the output is not at a constant speed. What do I do?
I checked everything three times, reconnected the UJ at least ten times, tried every other advice, also I followed the instructions so close, it was not even fun building it. Now I still have that ******* cracking and I feel like Im going insane.. nothing helps, so I will have to take it all apart and build again... what a great thing to spend money on, last model I bought. ever.. thanks for thorough manual though..
I wouldn't really spend this much time with it. It is possible to make it work without cracking, but even then you let it sit for a month and it will crack.
I am not totally sold on your recommendation. I have properly aligned both universal joints according to your instructions. My main concern is that the gearbox works incredibly fine when the car moves in reverse (i.e., backwards), regardless how hard you push it, even in Hi-4th gear. On the contrary, when you push the car 'drivewards' the gear box is a complete mesh in 3rd and 4th gears. I suspect it has to do with torsional torques in the shafts, and I would like to know if somebody else is having issues with it.
I did not say that the U-joints can be the only source of the problems, I suggest to check my pinned comment above. Btw in reverse the gearbox works incredibly fine because it does not drive anything, in reverse the fake engine is driven directly bypassing the gearbox.
@@RacingBrick Thanks for your answer. I know that the gearbox works fine in reverse because the 'selectors' are bypassed. What I meant is that when you have the model in 'Drive' mode with Hi + 4th gear, you can push it either frontwards or backwards. In the latter my gear box works like clockwork. However, pushing the car frontwards produces cracking over 3th gear. Probably, I am going to rebuild the car in 'British mode', to see whether I can reverse that behaviour (frontwards vs. backwards) or not.
I have disasembled the model completely and gone back to step 1. I intended to rebuilt the model alla 'British' but in the end, instead of flipping right to left and left to right, I found it easier to make two small changes: in steps number 4 and number 134, I just swapped the position of the differentials. Of course, in steps number 89 and number 90 I have properly aligned the U-joints, as originally suggested by RacingBrick. Also, I have paid careful attention to assemble the gears with enough gaps to reduce friction at all times. Now, my Land Rover's gear box runs like soft butter, whithout barely any sign of friction when pushing it forward.
@@BorjaVarona_at_YT Swapping the direction of the rear and front differentials worked for me also! I had tried adjusting every gear I could access without a complete rebuild. There was cracking from the gears only when moving forward in D on the two highest gears. Now there's only cracking when moving backwards in D on the two highest gears. As you shouldn't really reverse in D, this is not a problem. :)
Great video. Thanks! It helps me a lot. I have checked that Lego has fixed this issue updating the online instructions and setting the shafts exactly as you do. Apart from this, I've also checked that the fake motor gears cascade is the other origin of these cracks (apart of the u-joints issue, of course) because it does not run very smoothly. If you disconnect the light gray shaft to them, everything goes fine. Interestingly, if you spin the gears with the chassis upside-down, the motor spins smoother. I think that is something related to front chassis torsion. Ironically everything works also fine when you move the car backward!
At 2:11, the right image is step 89 on page 59 of the instructions. I just got this set 2 days ago and although my book has the same picture, the online pdf instructions shows the correct alignment of the u-joints in the inset. I just realized that although the inset is wrong in the book and in this video, the main image shows the u-joints correctly aligned.
Remove the joined part under the passenger seat and move ur whel. If its still craking ur problem is from gearbox. Its too hard to move the gear rleas them with a way . If ur problem is from the engin its about timing like a real car U just need a clutch like somthing and replace it with red par then move it frome hiest gear it will finde its plaice (the clutch must not bee to realisd or too hard) then very cearful remove the clutch sistem and get bak the red shaft. Mark the place and U have the timing on Ur lego
You’re guide is amazing, and it stopped cracking in drive, but the fake engine won’t work and when I go in the low or high differential mods it still cracks :/ Amazing video though!
3:06 Even my wheels rotate backwards also the fake engine pistons work (I'm talking about my 4th gear /HI) Should I open my model and check the U joints again? Or I should check something else too...
I am in the middle of building a motorized mod, with all sorts of snaps, crackles and pops. I read the hypoallergenic Vaseline is OK to dab on gears, but other people say it will melt the plastic over time.
I did everything you said and still had some clicking in hi and lo 3rd and 4th gear. What I figured out is that Lego put the 2 differentials in backwards so I flipped them around and now I have no issue at all in any gear combination
i have watched the video multiple times and still cant figure out how to put the axels correctly. Could you make a quick video of you having the stock version and then slowly showing us how to place the axels properly?
I did everything correct, without the other green parts i removed it works fine, then when i built it fully, the pistons again move well, it cracks a little in 4th gear hi when it drives fast, when i move it slow it doesn’t crack. I think it might be the weight of the car that causes the crack
My U-joints are correct but I still feel some mechanical resistance in the model. In the higher gears that resistance acts like a pullback motor until a gear slips
I am getting cracking when in D, and I can see/hear the tension built up in the gears. Don’t know how to fix, as I’ve gotten all the build correct, as far as I can tell. U joints are oriented correctly, as are the differentials.
That thing with the + and - on it, if you scroll it all the way to the - and put it in drive, it cracks, but then when you scroll it however many times you want to in the + direction it doesnt crack, im not sure if its for everyone, or just me,
So mine seems like it is having the same issue, but aligning the u-joints does not fix it. It works perfectly in R. But when in D, it binds up and builds that tension that spins the wheels when you lift them up.
I bought my Landy second hand for € 75 including box and spare parts as defective because rear wheels turned in opposite direction. So I had to rebuild it . Price was quite good I think.
I probably need to rebuild mine. The gearbox has a bit of rolling lag before it moves the pistons and there is generally just some slop in the gears. Going back over the pages multiple times, everything looks to be in the right place. And I have no clicking or missing. The gearbox just isn't that impressive I guess...
Gert Heb ik ook gemeld bij Lego. Als je zelf rijd ga na ongeveer 1 meter het rijden moeilijker, til de auto op en het achter wiel draai naar achteren. Dat is het probleem dat niet alle mogelijkheden werken zoals beweerd.
It is actually possible to build the model with a properly working drivetrain and without building up tension or cracking, but everything needs to be perfectly aligned and well balanced.
Hey there, I have a question. I got in trouble, because after putting the gearbox and rear suspensoin together, the transmission don’t work proper anymore, because there are two gears locking each other. Did you have the same issue?😳 I hope you can help me out🥺. It is very beautiful, it would be very sad if it doesn’t work. Nice video👍👍
@@RacingBrick Yup. Pity I then can't hear the clicking noises the video is demonstrating. hey ho. Apologies for applying my pet rant re music on videos here , your video is genuinely of interest to me as my landie was exhibiting exactly these build issues elearningindustry.com/use-background-music-with-instruction-no
@@GregElkin luckily the clicking/cracking noises are very loud so they can be absolutely clearly heard despite the background music. It might be a personal preference, I don't like videos where there's no sound at all.
@RacingBrick hello fellow, I've noticed the same problems with my own model saldy :/ I've put attention on having the u turn axles both the right way and I've also pulled up the DNR connecter a little bit up which I think helped the model by a little but still the cracking noises.. Your videos are really helpful but I don't really have the time to watch em all and then fix it, it still has the cracking noises and I wanted to ask if you know what could be the problem then? I know that I did not use wrong gears since I am a really perfectness loving and accurate brick builder it can't be that I used a wrong brick, surely nobody is perfect but I paid a lot of attention to using the right bricks since I've noticed before I got the model that it has such problems and now I'm standing here with a mark on my face T-T I guess I'll just have to rebuild the technical parts and then put it all together again... If you know what else could be the problem then pls let me know, have a nice weekend though!
![[Ep27] Что произошло за 2 года с набором LEGO 42110 Land Rover Defender](/img/n.gif)
Please note, this is not an ultimate fix for all cracking issues, it only covers one of the most frequent reasons. For a detailed guide please click here - racingbrick.com/2020/04/lego-technic-42110-land-rover-defender-ultimate-repair-guide/
now i just hear clicking instead of cracking and the wheels do not recoil
Ya thanks for the ultimate build guide or whatever it was called cuz that explained the solution much better
Thank you very much I appreciate all the work!
3:06 Even my wheels rotate backwards also the fake engine pistons work (I'm talking about my 4th gear /HI)
Should I open my model and check the U joints again? Or I should check something else too...
Same here. I finished the build last night and the rear drivetrain runs sluggish and cracks when driven around. U-joints are fine. I really think the problem is in the rear drivetrain because running the front wheels goes fairly smooth. It's the rear wheels that are the problem. All the connections seem to be right, at first glance. Anyone got a fix or point in the right direction?
Wow, Lego genuinely did go over and above when they made this set, it has design issues and causes grief, just like a real Land Rover 👍
Funny....
Ha! Comedian
But keeps on ticking!
True!
And what car do U have a Ford Fiesta mate
Great video. To all people who still have problems after this mod. Don't slide the u-joints all the way to the end of the axles. Let it be losen a little bit.The shaft will be restricted in it's movement If you slide the u joints all the way to the end of the shafts, which in turn will cause cracking noise and stop movement of the wheels. This solution together with the solution of racingbrick fixed my problem and the gearbox is running like a dream now.
Hi, you mean the axle within itself (the one which has u-joints at both ends) or the axles coming from the gearbox to which the u-joints get attached?
Is this guy a Certified Land Rover Technician tho?
That’s the warranty void then
considering the amount of people I helped in the past few months, I definitely deserve that certification :)
I just though it was authenticity.
didnt want to ruin 111
Lol
Same
Thank you, I rebuilt the chassis 3 times thinking I messed something up as I had the same issue with the wheels binding when pushing forward
sam cas me too😑
I never thought I needed this video,
I don’t even own this thing
Same
I had
I am getting it for christmas I'm hoping
@@EvillRat Did you get it?
Also the fact that the U-joints work at a very high angle contributes to the problem.
It was only a matter of time before car repair videos got a Lego version!
Thank you for this fix video. After final assembly, I didn't have a cracking issue but noticed the selectors didn't seem to do anything. Spent 20 minutes trying to do a minimal disassembly and noticed that one of the joints was off set. Normally I keep them in line, but not this time. Fixed and the issue was resolved. Thanks.
Thank God for this video! I was A convinced I’d screwed up my first ever Lego model at the tender age of 41 and B virtually stripped it as far as I could thinking I’d reversed the difs... you’re right the instructions are wrong on the alignment of the universal joints... many thanks!
I had the same clicking issue and was able to properly align the U-joints without any disassembly (I accessed them from under the vehicle and through the passenger side door). I no longer experience any clicking at all and it runs silently in neutral, as intended! Thank you for the helpful, informative video and for saving my build! :D
Guys, I’ve spent a lot of time trying to find out what was the issue that caused the cracking noise and I think that the most popular “mistake” is in the fake engine itself. Little 2:1:1 pieces that are rotated by the axle in the engine might not be placed perfectly and then it becomes much harder to rotate while touching the wrong fake cylinder (red one). And sometimes when it cracks, the engine stops working on any other speed. It is because of the dark bluish grey connectors between the seats (and near the + - sticker). They just get further from each other and don’t let the gears rotate properly.
Awesome. Thank you. I didn’t had the cracking issue but the engine speed wasn’t correct. That small change fixed that!!
Not all superheroes wear capes! Thank you @RacingBrick!
I have managed to solve the sticking wheel issue!!
Took me a full strip down to find it.
1. Turn the vehicle upside down.
2. Look for the main gear on the rear differential.
3. Locate the small dark grey cog to the rear if the main diff gear.
4. Double check you have installed item "6261374" correctly page 495 of the manual. (Small grey + - o connector)
Let me know if this solves your issue 😎🤙
That need to set UJ's correctly is very well known in motor engineering. Odd that Lego got one of them wrong. Well done for finding it and making this video. BobUK
Had an older manual, the 2 u-joints orientation was wrong, no clicking sound but pistons wouldn't run. aligned them per your recommendations and solved my issue. Thanks!
Thank you very much for your videos. I had the tension build, cracking issue in Hi 3rd and 4th, official Lego directions were wrong! Adjusted my u joints as shown here, and problem solved! You rock dude!
Nobody
Me Trying to silently turn on my electric stove 3am 0:06
lmfao🤣😂😅
Thanks for this video, along with alot of people i thought i had done some thing wrong during the build. It's just going to be a display piece so my mind is at ease knowing this was a common problem.
Great video - my model suffered both issues, but now running much better - thanks! Very informative generally on the universal joint alignment too, I had no idea that it mattered.
My land Rover still cracks, I built it 2 times
Getting this tmw. I’ll keep this in mind.
If you still have issues I suggest to remove the body, then go through the whole drive train and double check everything as it is presented in this video - th-cam.com/video/t9VQGoqhOFs/w-d-xo.html
It is also possible to disconnect the shafts going to and from the gearbox and check the sections separately by turning the gears manually.
Here's a hint how can you remove the body in bigger pieces - facebook.com/Racingbrick/photos/a.642361079222005/1486442398147198/
Hello. Like your video very much. Just a short question. I have checked my U-joints and other stuff you proposed. And still have the same issue. Funny, when I put gear in R, all gears work perfectly without cracking sound (HI, LOW, all gears) and motor simulating cylinders movements. Only in D I have explained issues. Any comment on that? Thanks.
@@tom7956 I suggest to check this video - th-cam.com/video/t9VQGoqhOFs/w-d-xo.html
In R your gearbox is not involved, the fake engine is driven directly so hi/lo and the gears does nothing. I suggest to remove the body, disconnect the shafts going to and from the gearbox and check the sections separately
@@RacingBrick i watched your video changed details and my Landover actually doesn't crack.
I fixed it with your help
I only have this issue when moving the defender forward in drive high or low, but when I move the defender backwards, even in drive high or low (or reverse - yes I know R bypasses) there are no cracks, albeit the pistons don't move completely smooth. Why is it cracking when my U joints are aligned?
I just finished stage one and found that when I spun one wheel the other was reversed. I reversed the differential multiple times without luck. I ended up tearing it apart. Right before attaching the gear box I tested the wheels and they spun the same way. After I attached it they were reversed. I've triple checked the gearbox. Do you know what's going on? I'm probably just going to continue.
Thank you soooooo much. Great advice, it fixed the problem, I am really glad you made this video. Just finished bag 2, I really enjoyed construction but this little bit was frustrating. Well done!!
Thanks for the great video. I've just got this set and the instructions have been corrected. It shows the correct alignment of the universal joints as you suggest.
I really have to say thank you
I was struggling and thinking about demolish and redo from start everything
Great job
During my last 2 medicopter shift, I spent my freetime to build this set. It was so frustrating to hear this creepy noise. I started to search the web instantly, and found this video very soon. I did everything as it mentioned, but first, I didn't get a good result. Double checked everything, finally I found out, that a pin is a bit out of it's place. Took that back, than everything worked as it should be. Thx! A+
Örülök hogy tudtam segíteni :)
@@RacingBrick esetleg abban még tudnál segíteni, hogy hol lehet rá beszerezni valami terepesebb gumit és felnit?
@@Memmaao a 9398 gumijai mennek rá erre a felinre amik ballonosabbak, viszont az kanyarodáskor beleér a kerékívbe.
@@RacingBrick köszi! Kár, hogy ilyen utcai gumival jött ki... Egy terep gumi bitang jól mutatna rajta!
No one:
When the cracking noise is still there:
*Visible depression*
I just bought this and this video is very useful thank you for making this!
I'm already lost 10 seconds into the video, still give an A+ for the effort for this whole vid
Slap some WD40 on it and it will fix it.
Wow I hate it when I hear this noise when I try to play with my new LEGO Technic 42110 Land Rover Defender, but thanks to this video I can now play with my new LEGO Technic 42110 Land Rover Defender in peace.
SOLUTION FR + EN/ SOLUTION IN ENGLISH (translated by browser) BELOW FRENCH
Si comme moi lors du premier montage, vous avez eu cette frustration en essayant votre nouveau Land Rover. Dans mon cas, après le premier montage et en dépit que tout soit bien monté ET que les arbres de transmission soient bien alignés, les vitesses craquaient en Low ou en High à partir de la 3ème vitesse. La 4ème vitesse en High craquait à mort. Bref, sans grand espoir, j’ai tout de même tenté un démontage et remontage complet MAIS en veillant à laisser pour CHAQUE engrenage (ou TOUT AUTRE PIÈCE TOURNANTE/MOBILE) un petit espace (juste ce qu’il faut pour que ça ne frotte pas), afin qu’il y ait un minimum de frottements entre les pièces mobiles et les pièces fixes. Ce qui a son importance vu le nombre d’axes et d’engrenages par lequel s’opère la transmission depuis les roues jusqu’aux 6 cylindres. Et là miracle, toutes les vitesses marchent sans craquer, même si ça manque toujours de fluidité (en 4ème High surtout). Mais ça ne craque plus jamais ! Tout ce que je peux vous dire, pour ceux qui (re)montent, c’est de bien tester la boite à vitesse (directement en 4ème High) dès que vous arrivez à l’étape de la pose du volant, en mettant les 4 roues en place au préalable bien sûr. N’hésitez pas à la faire rouler en l’accompagnant sur 2 à 3 mètres pour vous faire une bonne idée et ajuster si besoin est. Et une fois que c’est acceptable pour vous, vous pouvez continuer la suite en veillant à ne pas trop malmener la structure afin de ne pas compromettre les différents serrages établis. En espérant que ça en aidera pas mal et courage à ceux qui doivent redémonter. J’ai moi-même longuement hésiter à le faire sans savoir si ça en vaudrait le coup mais je ne pouvais pas me résigner à avoir un Lego à 150€ dont la fonction principale ne marche qu’à moitié.
____
If like me during the first assembly, you had this frustration while trying your new Land Rover. In my case, after the first assembly and despite everything being well assembled AND that the drive shafts are well aligned, the gears creaked in Low or in High from the 3rd gear. 4th gear in High creaked to death. In short, without much hope, I still tried a complete disassembly and reassembly BUT making sure to leave for EACH gear (or ANY OTHER ROTATING PART / MOBILE) a small space (just enough to keep it from rubbing step), so that there is a minimum of friction between the moving parts and the fixed parts. This is important given the number of axes and gears through which transmission takes place from the wheels to the 6 cylinders. And there miracle, all speeds work without cracking, even if it still lacks fluidity (especially in 4th High). But it never cracks again! All I can tell you, for those who (re)build, is to test the gearbox (directly in 4th High) as soon as you get to the stage of fitting the steering wheel, putting the 4 wheels in place beforehand of course. Do not hesitate to roll it by accompanying it for 2 to 3 meters to get a good idea and adjust if necessary. And once it is acceptable to you, you can continue following it while being careful not to manhandle the structure too much so as not to compromise the various tightenings established. Hopefully it will help a lot and courage for those who have to restart. I myself have long hesitated to do it without knowing if it would be worth it but I could not resign myself to having a Lego at 150 € whose main function works only halfway.
Thx for the fix! I also used a bit of mineral oil on the gears, it helps.
I made the Defender and looked carefully at all gears and orientation of the U-joints. No cracking noise when moving the Defender slow. At higher speed there is still cracking noise, despite I checked all your advised checkpoints.
Fantastic. Thanks so much for sharing. This fixed my set and is now working well. I emailed Lego 6 days ago about my set not working but have not heard a thing from them.
That's great to hear, glad I could help! :)
Just like land rover! It's a fantastic copy of the original 🤣 ! One thing remains : do the forum of this vehicle in order to resolve the lot of problems that have the land rovvies!
4:35 that little red gap shown was the problem with mine. Thank you so much!! No more cracks and all I hear the pistons moving :)
Thank you 🙏. This has been really helpful! Keep up the good work!
That's a nice explanation
Getting better every review
And really helps me a lot
Keep going, keep helping us
Better that the one who lives in Poland 😃😃😃
The hero we needed, but not the one we deserve.
Thanks, we had only one of the universal joints out of line so the clicking was a bit quieter. You can remover the shaft by taking the front seats out. All sorted now.
Thanks to you very much, this problem make me can't sleep after finish building . At first, I think is there any wrong building made by me ? And now, after watching your video , I fix it ! It done!
So I built mine with the help of all of your videos (very recently I may add) and there was no cracking...at first. Now in high gears there seems to be cracking and the output is not at a constant speed. What do I do?
After this, if it's still not working, check if differential are in the right direction. step 4 and 136. It fixed my model :)
Thanks a lot for the solution! Is it normal to have the crackig even after implementing this solution for the highest(4th) gear?
It is normal, I suggest to check the link in the pinned comment for some background information
Also make sure the inner U joint doesn't slide into the 24 tooth gear.
I checked everything three times, reconnected the UJ at least ten times, tried every other advice, also I followed the instructions so close, it was not even fun building it. Now I still have that ******* cracking and I feel like Im going insane.. nothing helps, so I will have to take it all apart and build again... what a great thing to spend money on, last model I bought. ever.. thanks for thorough manual though..
I wouldn't really spend this much time with it. It is possible to make it work without cracking, but even then you let it sit for a month and it will crack.
Can't believe I missed that in the instructions, ty
Ok mine were actually already aligned and I still get cracks
I don’t even have this or need to fix this but I’m here and I’m watching this
Thank you i was thinking on it for 6 months thank you very much
I am not totally sold on your recommendation. I have properly aligned both universal joints according to your instructions. My main concern is that the gearbox works incredibly fine when the car moves in reverse (i.e., backwards), regardless how hard you push it, even in Hi-4th gear. On the contrary, when you push the car 'drivewards' the gear box is a complete mesh in 3rd and 4th gears. I suspect it has to do with torsional torques in the shafts, and I would like to know if somebody else is having issues with it.
I did not say that the U-joints can be the only source of the problems, I suggest to check my pinned comment above. Btw in reverse the gearbox works incredibly fine because it does not drive anything, in reverse the fake engine is driven directly bypassing the gearbox.
@@RacingBrick Thanks for your answer. I know that the gearbox works fine in reverse because the 'selectors' are bypassed. What I meant is that when you have the model in 'Drive' mode with Hi + 4th gear, you can push it either frontwards or backwards. In the latter my gear box works like clockwork. However, pushing the car frontwards produces cracking over 3th gear. Probably, I am going to rebuild the car in 'British mode', to see whether I can reverse that behaviour (frontwards vs. backwards) or not.
I have disasembled the model completely and gone back to step 1. I intended to rebuilt the model alla 'British' but in the end, instead of flipping right to left and left to right, I found it easier to make two small changes: in steps number 4 and number 134, I just swapped the position of the differentials. Of course, in steps number 89 and number 90 I have properly aligned the U-joints, as originally suggested by RacingBrick. Also, I have paid careful attention to assemble the gears with enough gaps to reduce friction at all times. Now, my Land Rover's gear box runs like soft butter, whithout barely any sign of friction when pushing it forward.
@@BorjaVarona_at_YT Swapping the direction of the rear and front differentials worked for me also! I had tried adjusting every gear I could access without a complete rebuild. There was cracking from the gears only when moving forward in D on the two highest gears. Now there's only cracking when moving backwards in D on the two highest gears. As you shouldn't really reverse in D, this is not a problem. :)
Great video. Thanks! It helps me a lot. I have checked that Lego has fixed this issue updating the online instructions and setting the shafts exactly as you do. Apart from this, I've also checked that the fake motor gears cascade is the other origin of these cracks (apart of the u-joints issue, of course) because it does not run very smoothly. If you disconnect the light gray shaft to them, everything goes fine. Interestingly, if you spin the gears with the chassis upside-down, the motor spins smoother. I think that is something related to front chassis torsion. Ironically everything works also fine when you move the car backward!
thank you! fixed my issue even after rebuilding it a second time!
At 2:11, the right image is step 89 on page 59 of the instructions. I just got this set 2 days ago and although my book has the same picture, the online pdf instructions shows the correct alignment of the u-joints in the inset. I just realized that although the inset is wrong in the book and in this video, the main image shows the u-joints correctly aligned.
Thanks for the clear explanation!
Remove the joined part under the passenger seat and move ur whel. If its still craking ur problem is from gearbox. Its too hard to move the gear rleas them with a way . If ur problem is from the engin its about timing like a real car U just need a clutch like somthing and replace it with red par then move it frome hiest gear it will finde its plaice (the clutch must not bee to realisd or too hard) then very cearful remove the clutch sistem and get bak the red shaft. Mark the place and U have the timing on Ur lego
You’re guide is amazing, and it stopped cracking in drive, but the fake engine won’t work and when I go in the low or high differential mods it still cracks :/ Amazing video though!
This helped me to fix similar issue in my moc. Thanks for this video
3:06 Even my wheels rotate backwards also the fake engine pistons work (I'm talking about my 4th gear /HI)
Should I open my model and check the U joints again? Or I should check something else too...
The solution that worked for me. Swap the side of the «dark grey » toothed disk in both steps N.4 and N.134. The english side. And both on same side.
I'm about to build this, so good to keep in mind!
Thanks for this ! Not that i need it yet, but the guide is helpfull to know should my completed build have issues.
Looks like LEGO have fixed the manual now. I'm up to this step on my Defender and both of the joints are in the correct position.
You saved me hours, thank you
This isnt just a lego issue. People with insane lifts on their vehicles snap axles and driveshafts all the time and wonder why.
Thanks for the video it helped out with diagnosing the problem and fixing it aswell
Thanks for this video! :D
I never had this problem, but because you made this video before I got this, I knew what to look out for! :D
I am in the middle of building a motorized mod, with all sorts of snaps, crackles and pops. I read the hypoallergenic Vaseline is OK to dab on gears, but other people say it will melt the plastic over time.
This literally saved me! Thank you!
Thank you so much!!! I have this problem too but I sow this video and understood the problem.
I did everything you said and still had some clicking in hi and lo 3rd and 4th gear. What I figured out is that Lego put the 2 differentials in backwards so I flipped them around and now I have no issue at all in any gear combination
Guess what? No cracking, finally! Thanks! :)
sorry but it still dose't work for me can you help me?
Cheers finally fixed mine kept putting it off but it's not too difficult to get to..
i have watched the video multiple times and still cant figure out how to put the axels correctly.
Could you make a quick video of you having the stock version and then slowly showing us how to place the axels properly?
OUTSTANDING thank you for your time and effort
The thing is a nightmare to take apart, hopefully this will fix my issue.
Thanks very much i have this Mistake
I did everything correct, without the other green parts i removed it works fine, then when i built it fully, the pistons again move well, it cracks a little in 4th gear hi when it drives fast, when i move it slow it doesn’t crack. I think it might be the weight of the car that causes the crack
My U-joints are correct but I still feel some mechanical resistance in the model. In the higher gears that resistance acts like a pullback motor until a gear slips
I am getting cracking when in D, and I can see/hear the tension built up in the gears. Don’t know how to fix, as I’ve gotten all the build correct, as far as I can tell. U joints are oriented correctly, as are the differentials.
That thing with the + and - on it, if you scroll it all the way to the - and put it in drive, it cracks, but then when you scroll it however many times you want to in the + direction it doesnt crack, im not sure if its for everyone, or just me,
So mine seems like it is having the same issue, but aligning the u-joints does not fix it. It works perfectly in R. But when in D, it binds up and builds that tension that spins the wheels when you lift them up.
I suggest to use this - racingbrick.com/2020/04/lego-technic-42110-land-rover-defender-ultimate-repair-guide/
I bought my Landy second hand for € 75 including box and spare parts as defective because rear wheels turned in opposite direction. So I had to rebuild it . Price was quite good I think.
Thanks I noticed problems with mine I might be able to fix it now
Awesome! Thank you so much.
Thanks, this video helped a lot.
Very very well explained!!
Do you connect the red axle with the same colour, or the opposite, as I find it difficult to manage it? Could you please make a tutorial?
Hi, I tried to fix my Defender with your solution, but, still, there is cracking noise when gearbox is set on higher gears.
i saw all your videos, and there aren't any mistakes with my range rover, and i did what you said to do and it never worked.
If there are no mistakes with your build then it should be working, shouldn't it?
@@RacingBrick well it should be working i took it completely apart, i couldn't find any mistakes
i tried aligning the u-joints, it improves how it runs but there is still a lot of cracking.
I probably need to rebuild mine. The gearbox has a bit of rolling lag before it moves the pistons and there is generally just some slop in the gears. Going back over the pages multiple times, everything looks to be in the right place. And I have no clicking or missing. The gearbox just isn't that impressive I guess...
Gert
Heb ik ook gemeld bij Lego. Als je zelf rijd ga na ongeveer 1 meter het rijden moeilijker, til de auto op en het achter
wiel draai naar achteren. Dat is het probleem dat niet alle mogelijkheden werken zoals beweerd.
It is actually possible to build the model with a properly working drivetrain and without building up tension or cracking, but everything needs to be perfectly aligned and well balanced.
Thnx :) Little thing but great change.
Hey there, I have a question. I got in trouble, because after putting the gearbox and rear suspensoin together, the transmission don’t work proper anymore, because there are two gears locking each other. Did you have the same issue?😳 I hope you can help me out🥺. It is very beautiful, it would be very sad if it doesn’t work. Nice video👍👍
fascinating and want to watch to fix my landie but have to have the audio off to remove the irritating music!
We are so lucky to have a mute button, aren't we?
@@RacingBrick Yup. Pity I then can't hear the clicking noises the video is demonstrating. hey ho. Apologies for applying my pet rant re music on videos here , your video is genuinely of interest to me as my landie was exhibiting exactly these build issues elearningindustry.com/use-background-music-with-instruction-no
@@GregElkin luckily the clicking/cracking noises are very loud so they can be absolutely clearly heard despite the background music. It might be a personal preference, I don't like videos where there's no sound at all.
thank you so much for this.so all i have to do is push in that axle in the correct order?
well this is a potential source of the problems with the car, that's the first thing worth to check
@@RacingBrick thank you.
@RacingBrick hello fellow, I've noticed the same problems with my own model saldy :/ I've put attention on having the u turn axles both the right way and I've also pulled up the DNR connecter a little bit up which I think helped the model by a little but still the cracking noises.. Your videos are really helpful but I don't really have the time to watch em all and then fix it, it still has the cracking noises and I wanted to ask if you know what could be the problem then? I know that I did not use wrong gears since I am a really perfectness loving and accurate brick builder it can't be that I used a wrong brick, surely nobody is perfect but I paid a lot of attention to using the right bricks since I've noticed before I got the model that it has such problems and now I'm standing here with a mark on my face T-T I guess I'll just have to rebuild the technical parts and then put it all together again... If you know what else could be the problem then pls let me know, have a nice weekend though!