You could use this gearbox to improve your electric furnace lift system. Up and down direct drive system instead of the rope and pulley system. Great channel. Keep up the good work
Damn Geoff I was bloody impressed with the amount of pieces you got out of 1 Casting 😲. I struggle to make 1 big piece and you got heaps of perfect small ones so close to each other 👏🏻👏🏻. Good work matey 👍🏻🍻🍻🍻
Funnily enough I was disappointed. But research has since told me this is typical. Lots of items on a casting tree is fine as long as they're similar size and shape. But when they vary, different sections get fed at different rates, etc. Head scratching stuff : )
The secret was that it isn't precise. I mentioned "slack" and that was necessary. If I'd gone for absolute precision, every piece would have had to be milled. I don't have that ability... so I tried to build it in to the casting : )
This is great; I've been researching lost-PLA casting and different motors this last week, completely separate topics...Lo-and-behold the almighty algorithm found me a video with both. Cheers VOG, and cheers youtube AI.
nicely done for something not being machined after casting. taking shrinkage into consideration, you could probably make your 3D pattern with fairly tight tolerances and allow the cooling shrinkage to provide the desired ’slop’.
80's porn music in the background brings back fond memories of my lonely yet enjoyable teenage years... Excellent work *VegOilGuy* always impressed with your work, demonstration style, editing, attitude, and demeanor. Your persistence and creativity are also influential to many I am sure. Have an excellent day!
Ah, nostalgia! Then, later, dvd came out and it became possible to watch at one-eighth speed with music of your choice in the background...I used to go for classical, mainly : )
I for one have never tried such base indulgences and have no concept of perfect clarity, high definition, frame by frame viewing with zoom... never... not done it... never thought about it... no. Where did I put those dvd's...
Normally I see every video that is praised for its "music" as a failure. The video is undoubtedly good and I couldn't remember any instrumental junk getting on my nerves in the end. Then in any case the discreet volume is praiseworthy. But my "thumbs up" is still for the video and not for the "audio". I always prefer real machine noises.
Hi Geoff, I was going to make a joke or two about your latest casting efforts, (all in good humour of course) but seriously though you have pushed the whole envelope in this video. You have actually made the move from jewellery and decorative pieces and into the realm of engineering materials manufacturing. Now that is a pretty big step forward so well done.
I'm always happy with a little friendly joking, so no worries either way. And the jewellery... it's all a means to an end with me. I like to figure out how things work and show that these means can achieve a VAST variety of results. Jewellery, toys, tools, it's the same technique for them all : )
@@vogman Not entirely correct. Jewellery and simple toys still work if they are not 100 per cent reproductions. Highly accurate items like gears and gearboxes require a lot more in the way of accuracy and faithful reproduction.
Oh I'm not arguing... but my point is - the PROCESS is the same. If you can cast one thing using this technique, you can cast others. BUT you have to expect variances as I think my results have shown... warts and all : )
If you haven't tried before, there's something called PVB (if I remember correctly). It's marketed under the name polysmooth. It basically prints pretty similarly to PLA and can be smoothen with IPA to reduce/remove layer lines. I've had some great casting results. Just vacuum your investment but not your flask. It allows you to print hollow with an infill without any issue and it will have a great surface finish.
I release first thing on a Friday morning, 9am in fact. It helps many start their working day off : ) BigD releases late afternoon, just as the working day ends. Beginning and ending the working day with casting... : D
Printing your pieces with higher tolerances may help as well. Though you will have to do a bit more filing, but that beats the cost of cast materials. 😊
This is seriously on another level! So many new possibilities open up. Can't wait for the next video. I wonder why the other plaster didn't give good results. Maybe the vacuum didn't reach the mold cavity? I also wonder about what differences there is in dimensions between the 3D print and the finished casting. Maybe you have mentioned this in a previous video?
Hi Dan. I'm learning all the time and I have been emailing the plaster manufacturers. I'm surprisingly complex. There's literally plasters for every metal and every size of casting. The manufacturing process is generally about making items of one size and material consistently. I fluctuate from one project to the next : )
You are now dealing with a whole range of issues that you have not had to consider before in your casting efforts. Accuracy, tolerance, gears, scale and shrinkage, ratios, metallurgy, compressive strength, torsional strength, friction, frictional losses.
Very true... when I talked about building in slack, I meant it. Precision casting is hard going but by producing a print that worked tight or loose, I guessed the casting would function. Thankfully I was right : )
Did you dip coat your PLA in some form of resin or did you just place them directly in the cast material ? The reason I ask is because the PLA print is far from perfect and all those imperfections, I guess, will end up in the cast. Maybe spraying the PLA with a laquer or resin will clean it up. Would be interested in your thoughts on this ?
Even in precision engineered planetary gears sets, one of the components is designed to float, usually the planet gear carrier or sometimes the annular gear. This allows the planet gears to share the load between them giving a compact gearbox with a higher working load than a simple gear set.
Might want a corresponding raised section on the other piece so it doesn't wear in a groove or worse! Top project! (I wonder if the cool looking new pouring basin didn't provide enough head pressure?) You cast a machine! Congrats!
I'm lazy. the chances of me chasing this down to perfection are slim... plus it wouldn't make for enjoyable videos. It would be good research, but a bit repetitive. Other projects are already screaming from the tiny recesses of my mind. Perfection is possible here but experimentation is needed. For my part, I'm happy to have highlighted this.
Hey Geoff, that first casting actually turned out really well! Enjoy watching your journey with PLA casting. Be interesting to see what practical application you come up with. Looking forward to seeing more videos. Cheers
I love it! You're upping you game, and it's going to bring exciting times :))) The advent of spring and sunny days, as well as increased creativity and productivity for many people makes this a very good moon... (not that I'm esotheric in any way, there are many scientifically accepted moon oriented cycles. I just have noticed over the years that inspiration and productivity seem to follow them too...)
On the new sprue and pouring basin... think of it like two circles where you pour into the larger circle and the sprue is the smaller circle. The connection between the two circles should be made from tangent lines at the diameters of the circles. Now extended that concept to your design using a 1/4 circle for the "large" circle in the "traditional" design you want to connect the outer radius on the circle segment to the diameter of the sprue with tangential lines from the sprue. That should help you get the sprue filled and kept full while pouring. Overall it's an interesting project, looking forward to seeing what you are going to do with this.
"Backyard Shed Engineering" that has to be the world greatest understatement. Did you ever see the movie "World's Fastest Indian"? Great video and project.
@@vogman Burt Munroe the New Zealander in the movie casts pistons for his motorcycle and quenches them in a rain barrel. What he does next, made me laugh out loud.
One thing to keep in mind when stacking planetary gears is that you might want different number of planets as you gear down. Consider that for the second stage in your 4:1 reduction now has to handle 4 times the torque and the next one 16 times the torque. There is now more force on each tooth and might become a problem in a real setting (not used as a toy) Some Helicopters use a stack of planetary gears to reduce the high rpm of the turbine engine to the low rotation speed required for the blades. They might start with 3 small gears (also considering centrifugal force) followed by 4 bigger planets and finally 6 planets.
I also suspect that the reduction in the size of the pouring basin also removed a feeder supply of molten aluminium to keep supply up as the aluminium travelled down to the lower items and required shrinkage prevention supply.
It's bad science, of course. If you're going to experiment you should only vary one factor at a time... I vary so much that I'd give the average scientist a mini breakdown : )
@@vogman A mini breakdown? Oh you do yourself a great disservice with your modesty. A MAJOR BREAKDOWN for our poor unfortunate scientist is on the cards. Total and Permanent Disability support services have been talked about in hushed tones. Ruined for life and you describe it as only a minor breakdown ⛍.
Nice job there. I've been casting a few simple parts, but I wind up finishing them off on the lathe or milling machine. Mine do not seem to come out as 'pretty' as yours, but maybe it is the plaster, or just my skill level. I am still learning.
Awesome project. I like that you cast this and it works exactly like designed. I wonder how many you could stack together before the output torque exceeded the aluminum strength trying to turn something. Thumbs Up!
Thanks Gary. I don't think I'd want to stack too many aluminium ones together... I'm planning on casting a couple in aluminium bronze which I suspect will be stronger and more in keeping with my plans. But no "car lifts" ; )
hi! I'm not a casting expert but I think you need to recast with the parts separately without letting the printed parts inside. Great channel. Keep up the good work
In this video you have introduced a number of new features to your casting system and I think that it might have caused you some problems. I think that you will have to isolate the individual changes in order to break down the failure points and to be able to eliminate them.
I agree Mark, it was challenging. It's amazing it turned out so well really. But to nail in the precision I would need to repeat the exercise dozens of times, dialling in sprue sizes, positions on the tree, pouring temp, metal, etc. That's what the professionals have to do, I guess.
Looks like part of the sun gear failure may be due to how thick the material is. When it contracts as it cools it can lead to imperfections. You may want to consider adding a small hole in the center of the gerar so the shrinkage is more controlled and material thickness is more manageable in general
Great idea. I made my own tracks from aluminium profile (th-cam.com/video/VRMcSF6l7qE/w-d-xo.html) which I later made into an RC lawnmower (th-cam.com/video/-ezH92dfZqQ/w-d-xo.html). Great fun : )
A question, possibly a dumb one. Do you pour the molten metal into a very hot mold (a little lower than the temperature of the molten metal), or is the mold closer to room temperature? Regardless of which way it works, how do you allow for thermal contraction, and is there less allowance required if using a hot mold? The reason I ask is because I assume a hot mold would have expanded when it's hot, and this could help compensate for shrinkage as the casting cools. Thanks.
what casting plaster do you recommend? also, is it possible to use my Devil-Forge foundry to burn out the PLA? I truly am not looking for a wonderful cast, because there is finishing and milling required after the aluminum has been cast.
Also don’t worry about name n shame at least if you say the brand and did everything to their directions your only gonna help you subs by not using that for such intricate pieces 😉👍🏻
I can't be sure it's them mate. If I was confident I'd speak up, but there's so much to go wrong here. But when I'm more certain, I talk in straight lines, as the saying goes : )
That's excellent Markus. Please do. I'll be happy to add it in the description of my Devil-Forge update video - th-cam.com/video/P_MgI5g9FB8/w-d-xo.html - and maybe my community page : )
I am wondering why the brand change of investment plaster caused problems? I suggest that you go back to the full circle pouring basin and just cast some gears and plain shapes to study the results of using the new brand.
Interestingly I emailed the manufacturer and they suggested aluminium wasn't a good choice for that plaster. I've still got a big bag of the stuff so I don't want to waste it, but I'm still planning on ordering my usual. I guess there's a video in this... what a difference a powder makes : )
That came out really well. I'm even more curious now how well 50/50 plaster of Paris and sugar sand would fair if plaster that was ment to be used like this was giving you a difficult time. Maybe the porosity was different from the first plaster you used?
can u make a separate video about how can one incorporate shrinkage allowance to the 3d printed patterns itself or explain otherwise love what you are doing And I swear I have subscribed and hit the bell icon as soon as I came to know about Your channel ............. It is very helpful indeed
I tend to guestimate it. I increase the size of my prints by 1%, which isn't much. When cast they're usually pretty close. I deliberately build in tolerances to avoid the need for precision. I leave that to the guys with lathes : )
@@vogman In India we dont have much access to 3d printers.. I make my patterns out of wood .. which takes ridiculous amount of time...... If I get into the 3d printers.... there is also another shrinkage i shall have to account for which is the material itself I think..... But even after that What do you think about the 3d printers around ... Their accuracy calibrations and tolerances.. can i get accurate casted parts or even printed parts? (any solutions to my doubts is highly obliged) :)
There's a facility within ChiTuTox (the software used by most 3D printers) to calibrate prints.So in theory ANY printer using ChiTuBox can be calibrated. No doubt it's the same with other splicer software. So yes, I think it's very possible to print accurate models and even scale in for metal shrinkage, etc. It just takes a little practice : )
I'm not sure... I suppose it DEPENDS... how many, size, area of contact, value of load, temperature conditions, etc. Lots of factors... and I'm no engineer : D
Ahhh, well, that's all part of my NEXT vacuum system build which is already underway. I've posted a couple of clue photos on instagram instagram.com/vegoilguy/
By default it looks like you have managed to generate plenty of topics for you to explore in future videos with little incremental effort and expenditure.
I've never done metal casting, but this is inspiring me to try it. Question, doesn't quenching the casting in water when it's hot encourage warping? Wouldn't it be less likely to warp to allow it to cool slowly?
That's a good question and one that many will argue over... castings a little like that I'm afraid - everyone has an opinion : ) Wax and PLA casting involves plaster and an EASY way to get rid of the plaster is quenching whilst hot. If the temperature is high enough, the plaster tears itself apart. Too hot, the metal might still be molten. Too cool and the plaster stays intact. By and large quenching tends to be done on small pieces, so there's no real concerns about warping - certainly none that I've experienced yet. Larger pieces (like bronze statues) which can also be wax cast tend to have the plaster knocked off with hammering. It's really a question of what you want to cast : ) It's a great hobby. If you ever need advice, feel free to ask.
You also seemed to have increased the number and volume of the items being supplied by your sprue system and I am wondering if you have reached a limitation point for some reason that resulted in the failures seen in the lower items.
When you look back over my videos using this method, consistently you'll notice the lower items are the ones that fair worst. It could be my casting method... it's something I am think on : )
@@vogman I've been womdering if air is getting trapped in the bottom of your molds. Are you sure metal can only go to the bottom first before filling the pieces?
I'll be honest, I've no idea how metal flow works under vacuum. Does it get sucked to all the edges first? Does it plummet faster than with gravity? There's bound to be a video on it somewhere : )
Sooooooo many possibilities why. Different metal, different temperature, different investment plaster... but I suspect the answer lies in the sizes of the pieces. I've learned in only the last few days that typically, on a casting tree arrangement like I've used, the number of pieces doesn't matter, but they should be roughly the same dimensions. The logos were more closely matched than these castings. The ring is very large and thick in places, the cover plate is wide and thin (2mm), the planets are small. It was ambitious and it was NOT perfect. But it gives us all an idea of the sort of things we can do : )
I think your casting tree is too complex to expect uniform pouring, even with the help of a vac and good plaster. If you do revisit such a project, recommend making trees of common parts, such as on that is all planets, or all suns. You could mass produce multiple gear boxes. I love the modular concept, so shout-out to the original design.
You could use this gearbox to improve your electric furnace lift system. Up and down direct drive system instead of the rope and pulley system. Great channel. Keep up the good work
BANG ON!!!!
I wondered if anyone would guess! Well done. That's exactly the plan. A winch : )
@@vogman I
Thank you for this. The friction reduction is brilliant. A must have in your wheel house. 😊
Damn Geoff I was bloody impressed with the amount of pieces you got out of 1 Casting 😲. I struggle to make 1 big piece and you got heaps of perfect small ones so close to each other 👏🏻👏🏻. Good work matey 👍🏻🍻🍻🍻
Funnily enough I was disappointed. But research has since told me this is typical. Lots of items on a casting tree is fine as long as they're similar size and shape. But when they vary, different sections get fed at different rates, etc. Head scratching stuff : )
@@vogman Vibrate the casting as you pour it quite vigorously. Solved.
Very enjoyable to see a mechanical thing being printed and then cast. Looking forward to the demonstration !
Thanks Chris : )
thats incredible. cant believe you got something so precise to work
The secret was that it isn't precise. I mentioned "slack" and that was necessary. If I'd gone for absolute precision, every piece would have had to be milled. I don't have that ability... so I tried to build it in to the casting : )
@@vogman I replicate a Prius gearbox for a school project and had to print it 4 times before making it work without jamming😅
THAT is VERY impressive. Nice work : )
VegOilGuy either way, massive accomplishment. there was another youtuber named projecttube that tried casting a gearbox, but couldn't get it to turn!
I had doubts with this one... that's why I built it the slack. I fully expected dozens of comments telling me it was too loose : )
That would be great to see all put together and see it all working as one!
Time is always the enemy, but if I get chance you should see exactly that in a few weeks : )
@@vogman Thanks mate always look foward to seeing you BigstackD, ArtbyAdrock and Alumitube every Friday!
Nice one!
Great gear box! 👍🏻 now let’s get some more parts made and turn that into something really cool 😀 good work
Cheers bud : )
after watching this, i see there's No Way you Aren't an engineer by trade. jeez, this is impressive.
This is great; I've been researching lost-PLA casting and different motors this last week, completely separate topics...Lo-and-behold the almighty algorithm found me a video with both. Cheers VOG, and cheers youtube AI.
It's nice to hear about the dreaded algorithm actually working in my favour too. Glad this was helpful for you 😁
Lost PLA casting a gearbox, very interesting. It came out nice as well.
Thanks : )
nicely done for something not being machined after casting. taking shrinkage into consideration, you could probably make your 3D pattern with fairly tight tolerances and allow the cooling shrinkage to provide the desired ’slop’.
Absolutely. I like to give people ideas. I've no doubt there will be thousands of much better castings out, with much greater tolerances than mine : )
holy s**t! I was considering requesting this sort of thing as a video. The impact of this is huge!
Many thanks. There's an infinite number of practical uses for this sort of thing : )
80's porn music in the background brings back fond memories of my lonely yet enjoyable teenage years...
Excellent work *VegOilGuy* always impressed with your work, demonstration style, editing, attitude, and demeanor. Your persistence and creativity are also influential to many I am sure. Have an excellent day!
Very kind words, thanks : D
Ah, nostalgia! Then, later, dvd came out and it became possible to watch at one-eighth speed with music of your choice in the background...I used to go for classical, mainly : )
I for one have never tried such base indulgences and have no concept of perfect clarity, high definition, frame by frame viewing with zoom... never... not done it... never thought about it... no.
Where did I put those dvd's...
@@vogman Quite right too...this is a family show, after all...
Normally I see every video that is praised for its "music" as a failure.
The video is undoubtedly good and I couldn't remember any instrumental junk getting on my nerves in the end.
Then in any case the discreet volume is praiseworthy.
But my "thumbs up" is still for the video and not for the "audio".
I always prefer real machine noises.
Hi Geoff, I was going to make a joke or two about your latest casting efforts, (all in good humour of course) but seriously though you have pushed the whole envelope in this video. You have actually made the move from jewellery and decorative pieces and into the realm of engineering materials manufacturing. Now that is a pretty big step forward so well done.
I'm always happy with a little friendly joking, so no worries either way. And the jewellery... it's all a means to an end with me. I like to figure out how things work and show that these means can achieve a VAST variety of results. Jewellery, toys, tools, it's the same technique for them all : )
@@vogman Not entirely correct. Jewellery and simple toys still work if they are not 100 per cent reproductions. Highly accurate items like gears and gearboxes require a lot more in the way of accuracy and faithful reproduction.
Oh I'm not arguing... but my point is - the PROCESS is the same. If you can cast one thing using this technique, you can cast others. BUT you have to expect variances as I think my results have shown... warts and all : )
If you haven't tried before, there's something called PVB (if I remember correctly). It's marketed under the name polysmooth. It basically prints pretty similarly to PLA and can be smoothen with IPA to reduce/remove layer lines. I've had some great casting results. Just vacuum your investment but not your flask. It allows you to print hollow with an infill without any issue and it will have a great surface finish.
Synchronized uploadperfectly with big stack
Yes, we are normally synced. It comes in handy for challenges : )
@@vogman Funny what a 13 hour time difference between the two of you can achieve. :)
I release first thing on a Friday morning, 9am in fact. It helps many start their working day off : )
BigD releases late afternoon, just as the working day ends.
Beginning and ending the working day with casting... : D
@@vogman lol well they both post a few hours before I get off work.
You're working too hard mate ; )
Printing your pieces with higher tolerances may help as well. Though you will have to do a bit more filing, but that beats the cost of cast materials. 😊
I do love watching your videos, suiting voice and informational content.
I appreciate that! Thanks Kristofer 😁😁😁
This is seriously on another level! So many new possibilities open up. Can't wait for the next video.
I wonder why the other plaster didn't give good results. Maybe the vacuum didn't reach the mold cavity? I also wonder about what differences there is in dimensions between the 3D print and the finished casting. Maybe you have mentioned this in a previous video?
Hi Dan. I'm learning all the time and I have been emailing the plaster manufacturers. I'm surprisingly complex. There's literally plasters for every metal and every size of casting. The manufacturing process is generally about making items of one size and material consistently. I fluctuate from one project to the next : )
I absolutely DID enjoy this!! Very much. That furnace @3:29 sounds like a jet engine the way you have this edited. I love that part.
I truth that's me torturing the furnace. I'm adjusting the air intake VERY slowly causing it to pop and bang : D
You are now dealing with a whole range of issues that you have not had to consider before in your casting efforts. Accuracy, tolerance, gears, scale and shrinkage, ratios, metallurgy, compressive strength, torsional strength, friction, frictional losses.
Very true... when I talked about building in slack, I meant it. Precision casting is hard going but by producing a print that worked tight or loose, I guessed the casting would function. Thankfully I was right : )
Did you dip coat your PLA in some form of resin or did you just place them directly in the cast material ? The reason I ask is because the PLA print is far from perfect and all those imperfections, I guess, will end up in the cast. Maybe spraying the PLA with a laquer or resin will clean it up. Would be interested in your thoughts on this ?
Couldn't you print the parts bigger then finish with cnc mill?
@@terranovarain6570
how do you CNC mill a gear? You'd need a really small, long endmill
Even in precision engineered planetary gears sets, one of the components is designed to float, usually the planet gear carrier or sometimes the annular gear. This allows the planet gears to share the load between them giving a compact gearbox with a higher working load than a simple gear set.
I think you said it was a simple design or something of that nature. Then I must be simple because I'm impressed.
John, for ME to do it, it HAS to be simple : D
Might want a corresponding raised section on the other piece so it doesn't wear in a groove or worse! Top project! (I wonder if the cool looking new pouring basin didn't provide enough head pressure?) You cast a machine! Congrats!
Could be... it was a little small...
: )
Like I said in the first post, you have taken numerous steps at once and now we will need to isolate the process issues to resolve the problem.
I'm lazy. the chances of me chasing this down to perfection are slim... plus it wouldn't make for enjoyable videos. It would be good research, but a bit repetitive. Other projects are already screaming from the tiny recesses of my mind.
Perfection is possible here but experimentation is needed.
For my part, I'm happy to have highlighted this.
Would you consider using aluminium bronze for future castings of the gear box? Better bearing characteristics, and just plain looks good.
It's already planned : )
stuff is tough on my machining equipment, for parts you can use right out of the casting fine, but you have to plan how to machine it.
What is the brand of plaster / mold you normally prefer using?
Hey Geoff, that first casting actually turned out really well! Enjoy watching your journey with PLA casting. Be interesting to see what practical application you come up with. Looking forward to seeing more videos. Cheers
Thanks Pedro : )
Awesome job can't wait to see what you got planned
Thanks Jeff : )
This worked out very well. Love watching your video's. Perhaps your next challange would be a harmonic drive ;)
I'm not sure I could cast anything 'flexible' : )
Wow, I am looking forward to seeing how you put this to use.
Thanks : D
Really cool. Can’t wait to see how you add to it!
Thanks John : )
I love it! You're upping you game, and it's going to bring exciting times :)))
The advent of spring and sunny days, as well as increased creativity and productivity for many people makes this a very good moon... (not that I'm esotheric in any way, there are many scientifically accepted moon oriented cycles. I just have noticed over the years that inspiration and productivity seem to follow them too...)
I don't believe in that sort of stuff. I'm a typical Virgo ; )
@@vogman X'D
I love it! This vid remind of that channel "Gear Down for What" with their insane gearing from 3d printer devices.
Thanks Peter. I'll have to look out for that : )
On the new sprue and pouring basin... think of it like two circles where you pour into the larger circle and the sprue is the smaller circle. The connection between the two circles should be made from tangent lines at the diameters of the circles.
Now extended that concept to your design using a 1/4 circle for the "large" circle in the "traditional" design you want to connect the outer radius on the circle segment to the diameter of the sprue with tangential lines from the sprue. That should help you get the sprue filled and kept full while pouring.
Overall it's an interesting project, looking forward to seeing what you are going to do with this.
Well done, as ever, Sir!
Many thanks : )
"Backyard Shed Engineering" that has to be the world greatest understatement. Did you ever see the movie "World's Fastest Indian"? Great video and project.
No, that's a new one to me that... but it's what we do isn't it... tinker in our sheds and workshops.
Great fun isn't it : )
@@vogman Agree with Skully, you have to watch it, great movie with Sir Anthony playing one of his best rolls.
@@vogman Burt Munroe the New Zealander in the movie casts pistons for his motorcycle and quenches them in a rain barrel. What he does next, made me laugh out loud.
gears casting very useful ...many thanks
No worries. Many thanks : )
Awesome project thanks, looking forward to your next video.
Thanks Ronald : )
One thing to keep in mind when stacking planetary gears is that you might want different number of planets as you gear down. Consider that for the second stage in your 4:1 reduction now has to handle 4 times the torque and the next one 16 times the torque. There is now more force on each tooth and might become a problem in a real setting (not used as a toy)
Some Helicopters use a stack of planetary gears to reduce the high rpm of the turbine engine to the low rotation speed required for the blades. They might start with 3 small gears (also considering centrifugal force) followed by 4 bigger planets and finally 6 planets.
Interesting input. Thanks : )
this is one ef the greatest video on youtube thank you man
Many thanks : D
Another great video. Love it!
Thanks Bernie.
I also suspect that the reduction in the size of the pouring basin also removed a feeder supply of molten aluminium to keep supply up as the aluminium travelled down to the lower items and required shrinkage prevention supply.
It's bad science, of course. If you're going to experiment you should only vary one factor at a time... I vary so much that I'd give the average scientist a mini breakdown : )
@@vogman A mini breakdown? Oh you do yourself a great disservice with your modesty.
A MAJOR BREAKDOWN for our poor unfortunate scientist is on the cards. Total and Permanent Disability support services have been talked about in hushed tones. Ruined for life and you describe it as only a minor breakdown ⛍.
Nice job there. I've been casting a few simple parts, but I wind up finishing them off on the lathe or milling machine. Mine do not seem to come out as 'pretty' as yours, but maybe it is the plaster, or just my skill level. I am still learning.
We're all learning Richard, that's the fun of it. I never claim to be an expert - I just claim that I enjoy trying : )
I should try cast aluminium and make some pieces, seems fun and very useful!
Exactly! Fun and useful : )
incredible....... very very good job👍
Many thanks : )
Awesome project. I like that you cast this and it works exactly like designed. I wonder how many you could stack together before the output torque exceeded the aluminum strength trying to turn something. Thumbs Up!
Thanks Gary. I don't think I'd want to stack too many aluminium ones together... I'm planning on casting a couple in aluminium bronze which I suspect will be stronger and more in keeping with my plans.
But no "car lifts" ; )
hi! I'm not a casting expert but I think you need to recast with the parts separately without letting the printed parts inside. Great channel. Keep up the good work
That was really cool 😎
Thanks Greg : )
That is an awesome idea, kudos 👍
In this video you have introduced a number of new features to your casting system and I think that it might have caused you some problems. I think that you will have to isolate the individual changes in order to break down the failure points and to be able to eliminate them.
I agree Mark, it was challenging. It's amazing it turned out so well really. But to nail in the precision I would need to repeat the exercise dozens of times, dialling in sprue sizes, positions on the tree, pouring temp, metal, etc. That's what the professionals have to do, I guess.
Looks like precision to me mate
Thanks Dylan : )
Great video. It's impressive to see working gears come out of a forge like this.
Can you ask the devil if he will send me one of his forges?
If only it was that easy ; )
Looks like part of the sun gear failure may be due to how thick the material is. When it contracts as it cools it can lead to imperfections. You may want to consider adding a small hole in the center of the gerar so the shrinkage is more controlled and material thickness is more manageable in general
Nice idea, thanks : )
Very nice! I just made my first 3d printed gearbox. Trying to make a 80% printed rc tank.
Great idea. I made my own tracks from aluminium profile (th-cam.com/video/VRMcSF6l7qE/w-d-xo.html) which I later made into an RC lawnmower (th-cam.com/video/-ezH92dfZqQ/w-d-xo.html). Great fun : )
A question, possibly a dumb one. Do you pour the molten metal into a very hot mold (a little lower than the temperature of the molten metal), or is the mold closer to room temperature? Regardless of which way it works, how do you allow for thermal contraction, and is there less allowance required if using a hot mold?
The reason I ask is because I assume a hot mold would have expanded when it's hot, and this could help compensate for shrinkage as the casting cools.
Thanks.
what casting plaster do you recommend? also, is it possible to use my Devil-Forge foundry to burn out the PLA? I truly am not looking for a wonderful cast, because there is finishing and milling required after the aluminum has been cast.
Awesome. I want to make a mini oil pump now.
You'd need better tolerances on the piston, but you could always make use of a syringe for that : )
That is awesome love it! Keep it up 🙂
Thanks Jack : )
Well I finally got me a 3D printer 😁 was wondering what slicer program you use for designs
I use Cura my friend. Nice, simple and free : )
@@vogman thank you very much! 😁
Definitely want to see how it runs after you pack it with grease
Hopefully you will in a few weeks.
Very cool. There is a lot of brain candy here. Thanks for the video. What is your regular brand of plaster that works well?
This has worked well for me...
www.hswalsh.com/product/pioneer-smoothcast-investment-powder-tc0451
Also don’t worry about name n shame at least if you say the brand and did everything to their directions your only gonna help you subs by not using that for such intricate pieces 😉👍🏻
I can't be sure it's them mate. If I was confident I'd speak up, but there's so much to go wrong here. But when I'm more certain, I talk in straight lines, as the saying goes : )
VegOilGuy :I see you prescribe to Abraham Lincoln's philosophy. Wise choice!
I can name the great men, even if I'll never be one : )
My devil-forge has the new modification. They have moved the burner placement to the side. I will youtube it and send you a link later.
That's excellent Markus. Please do. I'll be happy to add it in the description of my Devil-Forge update video - th-cam.com/video/P_MgI5g9FB8/w-d-xo.html - and maybe my community page : )
@@vogman th-cam.com/video/fYR-JMyAHhI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Markus : D
I've tacked this into the description and also on my Community page. Thanks Markus.
@@vogman You are welcome.
nice work in fusion
Many thanks : )
Very cool
Awesome!
Thanks Joe : )
Was waiting to see it lift the car while your drill falls apart 😂
I've just got to cast a drill 😁😁😁😁
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Marcel : )
anything new on this? Maybe try with the new high definition printer you have!
Very cool build!
great job. awesome!
thank you
Many thanks : )
Out of curiosity what happens to the pla dose it just some how burn away to nothing.
Very good
Thanks Tony : )
I am wondering why the brand change of investment plaster caused problems? I suggest that you go back to the full circle pouring basin and just cast some gears and plain shapes to study the results of using the new brand.
Interestingly I emailed the manufacturer and they suggested aluminium wasn't a good choice for that plaster. I've still got a big bag of the stuff so I don't want to waste it, but I'm still planning on ordering my usual.
I guess there's a video in this... what a difference a powder makes : )
@@vogman What is your "usual"?
please make more of these gear mechanical precision 3d printed mold metal casting videos.
That came out really well.
I'm even more curious now how well 50/50 plaster of Paris and sugar sand would fair if plaster that was ment to be used like this was giving you a difficult time. Maybe the porosity was different from the first plaster you used?
The second make of plaster was nicely porous. But the manufacturer, who I've since emailed, has said it's not a good plaster for aluminium.
@@vogman oh!? I had no idea different metals needed certain types of plasters. I'll definitely keep that in mind for future endeavors.
can u make a separate video about how can one incorporate shrinkage allowance to the 3d printed patterns itself or explain otherwise
love what you are doing
And I swear I have subscribed and hit the bell icon as soon as I came to know about Your channel ............. It is very helpful indeed
I tend to guestimate it. I increase the size of my prints by 1%, which isn't much. When cast they're usually pretty close. I deliberately build in tolerances to avoid the need for precision. I leave that to the guys with lathes : )
@@vogman In India we dont have much access to 3d printers.. I make my patterns out of wood .. which takes ridiculous amount of time...... If I get into the 3d printers.... there is also another shrinkage i shall have to account for which is the material itself I think..... But even after that What do you think about the 3d printers around ... Their accuracy calibrations and tolerances.. can i get accurate casted parts or even printed parts? (any solutions to my doubts is highly obliged) :)
There's a facility within ChiTuTox (the software used by most 3D printers) to calibrate prints.So in theory ANY printer using ChiTuBox can be calibrated. No doubt it's the same with other splicer software. So yes, I think it's very possible to print accurate models and even scale in for metal shrinkage, etc. It just takes a little practice : )
very cool!
Many thanks : )
Hello Sir, for casting, did we need add air vent line during metal pouring ?
Not with investment casting like this. This uses a vacuum to pull out air and help to metal fill the mold 😁
Amazing
Thank you! Cheers!
You can find an excellent planetary gear set in the cordless drill
Nice tip : )
Are ball-bearings more friction then gears?
I'm not sure... I suppose it DEPENDS... how many, size, area of contact, value of load, temperature conditions, etc. Lots of factors... and I'm no engineer : D
Why don't you use a vacuum chamber pumping from all sides instead of pumping only from the bottom ? It should be more uniform i think.
Ahhh, well, that's all part of my NEXT vacuum system build which is already underway. I've posted a couple of clue photos on instagram instagram.com/vegoilguy/
this would work great for rc cars. for parts like the gear box for the tiers ?
Wow!!!👏👏👏
By default it looks like you have managed to generate plenty of topics for you to explore in future videos with little incremental effort and expenditure.
Videos beget videos. But viewers require fresh topics ; )
some times old plaster that's been siting around in the bag for a time mite have an affect on it's consistency? maybe
Possible... it's a different brand from a different supplier. I did find the powder VERY compact. You have a good point!
I've never done metal casting, but this is inspiring me to try it.
Question, doesn't quenching the casting in water when it's hot encourage warping? Wouldn't it be less likely to warp to allow it to cool slowly?
That's a good question and one that many will argue over... castings a little like that I'm afraid - everyone has an opinion : )
Wax and PLA casting involves plaster and an EASY way to get rid of the plaster is quenching whilst hot. If the temperature is high enough, the plaster tears itself apart. Too hot, the metal might still be molten. Too cool and the plaster stays intact.
By and large quenching tends to be done on small pieces, so there's no real concerns about warping - certainly none that I've experienced yet. Larger pieces (like bronze statues) which can also be wax cast tend to have the plaster knocked off with hammering. It's really a question of what you want to cast : )
It's a great hobby. If you ever need advice, feel free to ask.
You also seemed to have increased the number and volume of the items being supplied by your sprue system and I am wondering if you have reached a limitation point for some reason that resulted in the failures seen in the lower items.
When you look back over my videos using this method, consistently you'll notice the lower items are the ones that fair worst. It could be my casting method... it's something I am think on : )
@@vogman I've been womdering if air is getting trapped in the bottom of your molds. Are you sure metal can only go to the bottom first before filling the pieces?
I'll be honest, I've no idea how metal flow works under vacuum. Does it get sucked to all the edges first? Does it plummet faster than with gravity? There's bound to be a video on it somewhere : )
If you are able to tap the outside before the metal solidifies. That may help.
Thanks Clarence : )
How come these came out deformed when your previous casting of the logos had high details?
Sooooooo many possibilities why. Different metal, different temperature, different investment plaster... but I suspect the answer lies in the sizes of the pieces. I've learned in only the last few days that typically, on a casting tree arrangement like I've used, the number of pieces doesn't matter, but they should be roughly the same dimensions. The logos were more closely matched than these castings. The ring is very large and thick in places, the cover plate is wide and thin (2mm), the planets are small. It was ambitious and it was NOT perfect. But it gives us all an idea of the sort of things we can do : )
@@vogman Thanks for the reply man!
No worries. It's all about sharing ideas and thoughts. No one person has all the answers... but between us...?
: )
Добрый день, все классно
Hi! Maybe nylon is more powerful than aluminum? And it is better to print it immediately, because the form is disposable...
Could be 😁😁😁
Can you design planetary 3:1 ratio. With 2 shaft output?
what type of plaster is this and is it available in Germany?
I think your casting tree is too complex to expect uniform pouring, even with the help of a vac and good plaster. If you do revisit such a project, recommend making trees of common parts, such as on that is all planets, or all suns. You could mass produce multiple gear boxes. I love the modular concept, so shout-out to the original design.
I see that you were using fusion 360 how can you scale the design to account for allum. Shrinkage?
I tend to allow 0.5%. This seems to work for me, but I don't really worry too much about exact sizing.
Rebirth of the Midlands world famed manufacturing industry in the Black Country??? 😂😂😂 Nice work fella, very nice.
You said it buddy : D
nice!
Thanks Juan : )
Any plans to put the design on Thingiverse?
Yes George. I stupidly deleted a couple of the files - d'oh! I'll redraw them and post on Thingiverse hopefully this weekend : )
Oooo, did u try brass, maybe it will flow better? Anyway it works!
I'm going to try bronze. Fingers crossed : )