They’re a bit pricey, but Koken and Wera make some badass sockets that would have been great for this. Koken calls theirs Nut Gripper and the Wera are Zyklops with holding function. They’ve got little detention balls in them to hold nuts and screws. Comes in handy, especially when dealing with stainless steel or something non magnetic.
Thanks for the video... getting ready to replace on a 2009 Saturn Vue 2.4 Ecotec... Found a Magnetic quick release nut setter at harbor freight for $2...hopefully I don't drop the darn bolts!!!
Wondering..was the leaking water pump ...coolant,passing thru to the oil in the timing chain area..when it went bad..mixing of oil & coolant..? Can that occur on this motor? Just did a head gasket & still have leaking coolant into oil pan..can the oring seal on water pump when bad allow the mixing of fluids.. Thanks✋✔
did you have to remove the exhaust manifold or the cat pipe to do this job? Mine is rusty and I am afraid the bolts will break off in the exhaust if I have to. The repair manuals say you have to take off the exhaust manifold....
Would certainly make it easier to get your hands up in there. I have an 07 HHR as well and have had to replace the cat (factory one blew a hole). Just use a good deal of lubricant and let it soak overnight before attempting to remove the bolts. Also I believe the bolts are replaceable? Don't quote me on that, but I seem to remember while I was up in there that they could be removed completely.
Use Seafoam Creep spray, let it soak. The replacement bolts(studs) are size M10 1.5x50 (double check that). I used a bunch of extensions and a mid-torque inpact wrench to get them from underneath the car. The bolts attaching it to the resonator pipe are the same size. If it's too rusty, it's honestly so much easier to just add a new pipe, and clamp on a muffler. I used a sawzall to cut the tail pipe to get it out. Goodluck to anyone who reads this.
TIP-- when draining the radiator and not wanting it to drain/drip onto that ledge, just make an aluminum foil drain channel shaped however you want for the fluid to drain into and to run down to the container. simple, easy. The rest of the pump removal is just crrrazee.
@@gregpiecuch3802 unfortunately, you have to retest the timing chain tensioner. If that doesn't work your wore out timing water pump damaged the timing chain, and you will need to get another timing chain because of stretchage
Yep. AutoZone parts have really gone downhill in the last few years. I replaced the alternator on my 1999 Dodge Ram three times within a year before I finally got one that didn't fail. I asked them how many times you have to return the defective one for replacement before they give you a refund and they told me; seven times. They seem to have the same quality parts now that you can get from any place that sells cheap Chinese knock-off products.
I've never had a problem with Autozone parts. I know people bitch about the electrical parts, but usually there is something else wrong causing those parts to fail.
Never, never, never use petroleum base grease, like bearing grease, to lubricate rubber parts, including o rings! Use a silicone base lube like caliper grease. The petroleum grease will deteriorate the rubber and you, or someone, will be doing this job again when that o ring starts leaking.
You probably dont care at all but does anybody know a tool to log back into an instagram account..? I was dumb lost the password. I love any assistance you can offer me.
I just did that at the beginning of the year on mine (2005 F150). Watched a few videos and actually did it without breaking any. Wasn’t too bad, surprisingly. Definitely a shitty design.
Okay now you talk about Chevy being dumb what about Ford putting the ball joints pointing upside down on the F-150 to where if you hit a bumped the wrong way the start of the ball joints pops a hole through the rim lmmfao 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
This video helped a ton for the thermostat bolts. Such a stupid design for a water pump
They’re a bit pricey, but Koken and Wera make some badass sockets that would have been great for this. Koken calls theirs Nut Gripper and the Wera are Zyklops with holding function. They’ve got little detention balls in them to hold nuts and screws. Comes in handy, especially when dealing with stainless steel or something non magnetic.
Good job. It just convinced me to let a shop do it for me.
I like to stuff paper towels around the 3 bolts. You'll do them one at a time, but you can stuff paper towel around the opening so the bolts fall out
Thanks for the video... getting ready to replace on a 2009 Saturn Vue 2.4 Ecotec... Found a Magnetic quick release nut setter at harbor freight for $2...hopefully I don't drop the darn bolts!!!
they make extensions with magnetic ends that help u not drop bolts into places where u not want them to go!
Yes they do, I’m kinda old school tho:) thanks!
Leave it to engineers to make a simple part complex as fuck to replace andservice
IKR!
Wondering..was the leaking water pump ...coolant,passing thru to the oil in the timing chain area..when it went bad..mixing of oil & coolant..? Can that occur on this motor? Just did a head gasket & still have leaking coolant into oil pan..can the oring seal on water pump when bad allow the mixing of fluids.. Thanks✋✔
Same exact engine 2.4
The top bolt is easiest to get to from the top
Yep. I 100% dropped one of those bolts down I to the crankcase.
Argh.
How much does Chevy dealer charge for all that work?
did you have to remove the exhaust manifold or the cat pipe to do this job? Mine is rusty and I am afraid the bolts will break off in the exhaust if I have to. The repair manuals say you have to take off the exhaust manifold....
I did not remove exhaust components:)
Would certainly make it easier to get your hands up in there. I have an 07 HHR as well and have had to replace the cat (factory one blew a hole). Just use a good deal of lubricant and let it soak overnight before attempting to remove the bolts. Also I believe the bolts are replaceable? Don't quote me on that, but I seem to remember while I was up in there that they could be removed completely.
Use Seafoam Creep spray, let it soak.
The replacement bolts(studs) are size M10 1.5x50 (double check that).
I used a bunch of extensions and a mid-torque inpact wrench to get them from underneath the car.
The bolts attaching it to the resonator pipe are the same size. If it's too rusty, it's honestly so much easier to just add a new pipe, and clamp on a muffler. I used a sawzall to cut the tail pipe to get it out. Goodluck to anyone who reads this.
you need a piece of coil stock to help divert that antifreeze away and into your pan
TIP-- when draining the radiator and not wanting it to drain/drip onto that ledge, just make an aluminum foil drain channel shaped however you want for the fluid to drain into and to run down to the container. simple, easy. The rest of the pump removal is just crrrazee.
Tool part number for the half moon orange tool please.
Its rented at orielly and sold there for 45$
I will take it into a shop dont have hydralic lifts looks like a pain
Did you have any whining noises
I did not but to be fair it was a friends car. No reported issues
@@BertsFordFactory well I did the water pump, the car started whining loudly. Idk what to do.
Yes, my new pump is whining. What did you guys do? Will it go away, or is the new pump's bearing bad?
@@gregpiecuch3802 unfortunately, you have to retest the timing chain tensioner. If that doesn't work your wore out timing water pump damaged the timing chain, and you will need to get another timing chain because of stretchage
@@HIMI2003 Thanks so much for the reply. I will definitely be trying that!
If you're watching this, the view you want is at 9:09. Nice camera work!
So the water pump is on the passenger side
Yes it is
Lawd my sister water pump is gonna out. I worked on cars and this gonna be a pain in my back end.smh
I was a ford tech for a few years, and they do some pretty stupid shit too.
What a hot mess..my niece has same issue...I'm not about to tackle this...chevy dropped the ball on this one
Wow. All that work to put in an AutoZone part. Eventually you will learn.
Yep. AutoZone parts have really gone downhill in the last few years. I replaced the alternator on my 1999 Dodge Ram three times within a year before I finally got one that didn't fail. I asked them how many times you have to return the defective one for replacement before they give you a refund and they told me; seven times. They seem to have the same quality parts now that you can get from any place that sells cheap Chinese knock-off products.
I've never had a problem with Autozone parts. I know people bitch about the electrical parts, but usually there is something else wrong causing those parts to fail.
Jesus love Fords he f****** walk everywhere
Never, never, never use petroleum base grease, like bearing grease, to lubricate rubber parts, including o rings! Use a silicone base lube like caliper grease. The petroleum grease will deteriorate the rubber and you, or someone, will be doing this job again when that o ring starts leaking.
Thanks😁
Vehicles with these engines are worthless after 150,000 miles. Sell them before they break down.
Do you not remember when Ford decided to put two piece spark plugs in there v8 motors? And they would break off? Lol
You probably dont care at all but does anybody know a tool to log back into an instagram account..?
I was dumb lost the password. I love any assistance you can offer me.
@Morgan Ronnie Instablaster ;)
I just did that at the beginning of the year on mine (2005 F150). Watched a few videos and actually did it without breaking any. Wasn’t too bad, surprisingly. Definitely a shitty design.
Okay now you talk about Chevy being dumb what about Ford putting the ball joints pointing upside down on the F-150 to where if you hit a bumped the wrong way the start of the ball joints pops a hole through the rim lmmfao 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
It’s funny how Ford guys knock Chevys and how Chevy guys knock Fords. For the same reasons! Ha!
Pro tip....dont buy a chevy!