Another good tip is to regularly replace the injectors stretch bolts that hold down the injectors brackets, replace them with each clutch survive as they loose their capacity to bounce back once the engine cools down overtime. Problems cause by not replacing these $20 pair of bolts (this is their price at the ford dealership): As they go old they cant keep the injectors snug so they start blowing by the injector seals exhaust gases that increases the pressure inside the crack case, builds lots of sludge causing premature wear in all internals, busts the oil pressure switch and causes all oil gaskets to leak... ie. Rock cover gasket, oil sump gaskets, crank shalt seals to leak front and back and oil pressure switch to go bust... Also it will mimic blown head gasket symptoms with potential exhaust smoking and early dpf clogging
Attention to all: I found out that because of the set up of the engine blocks "ally block + iron water jacket" on the cooling system it turns the van into an electrolysis bucket. That causes overheating and seals to fail due to excessive pressure in the system. That is caused by a faulty earthing points all around the van. Here are the earthing points locations: Behind tail lights Behind front lights inside of the bay half way on the quarter panels Behind the engine Drivers side near the step on the corner of the battery box " some transits at same spot under passenger seat as well as driver's seat" Also I suggest replacement of the coolant with anti corrosive coolant. Installation of boating zink+magnesium alloy anodes by threading existing holes on the side of the water jacket sanding back the surface of the hole to clean metal using the button shaped anode smear some electrically conductive grease to maintain good contact bolt it snug and give it at least one point of weld to guarantee good contact. Put about 2 on each side of the block right on the cast iron water jacket and one on each side of the aluminium block. You can tell if you have electrolysis going on by dunking one of the sticks of the multimeter in the wAter reservoir and mesure for volts (search on TH-cam how to measure electrolysis in cooling system) Re-do all earth points by wire brushing all contact areas to clean metal, you must remove bolts and clean all surfaces back to bare metal than use silicone grease generously on all bare metal surfaces to avoid it going rusty or corroded just a little corrosion on these points and problems are back so make sure to not save on the di-electric grease. Transits are not bad to rust, it was a bad manufacturers choice of materials on the engine... ie. Dissimilar metals + water + voltage = electrolysis they should have made the water jacket in cast aluminium! Another bad choice plastic intake, plastic rocker cover is durable but it traps heat in engine, plastic thermostat housing. It is also advisable to unplug all plugs from the the area under the water reservoir put big blobs of silicon grease on the contacts enough to have the grease squirt through the slots in the plugs all the way to the back of the plugs. This will stop corrosion there and avoid so crazy electrical malfunctioning... If there is no electrolysis there is only minimal rust in transits they only go badly rusted if these earthing points are not maintained properly This will permanently stop the rusting process than you repair the points properly and paint them up all of that done and the rust wont come back. The rest is maintenance cleaning keeping water channels clean and not obstructed.
All in all transits are great but people fail to maintain it properly as they get older... Another tip is using jetski turbo oil in the turbo just by disconnecting the front facing turbo hose and spraying marine turbo oil in between the blade and the case liberally at every fuel filter replacement intervals.
Now do the mechanical issues. you should have also mentioned that the UK has a whole lot of rust panel replacement parts that be bought to fix the common issues. ie. door steps, chassis panels. lower door sections etc.
Great vans, I’ve had many. Just a shame about the rust with them! Could be wrong but pretty sure trannys don’t have wheel arch liners. There just bare.
They are great vans, your correct they don't have liners, I suppose tge idea was to have them pressure washed annually, something most people don't do unfortunately.
Yep 0.6 is what my welder used to fill some holes on my 2011 transit. Very thin metal sheet latter on I ended up installing all around doors from a MK6 earlier model with thicker panelling... Now the doors work properly too...
![Ford Transit Van Rust Holes [MOT FAIL!] Welding Repair Guide For UK 2.2 FWD Van | 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XV0XitYZ_EQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Mine is good everywhere else but has rusted through a few spots on the rough. Right at the seams. Who builds a roof with seams and caulking.
Great video. Good descriptions. Brilliant.
Thanks for the comment. Appreciate it.
Another good tip is to regularly replace the injectors stretch bolts that hold down the injectors brackets, replace them with each clutch survive as they loose their capacity to bounce back once the engine cools down overtime.
Problems cause by not replacing these $20 pair of bolts (this is their price at the ford dealership):
As they go old they cant keep the injectors snug so they start blowing by the injector seals exhaust gases that increases the pressure inside the crack case, builds lots of sludge causing premature wear in all internals, busts the oil pressure switch and causes all oil gaskets to leak...
ie. Rock cover gasket, oil sump gaskets, crank shalt seals to leak front and back and oil pressure switch to go bust...
Also it will mimic blown head gasket symptoms with potential exhaust smoking and early dpf clogging
Thanks for the info
More transit videos please 😊
Working on them. Thanks
Attention to all:
I found out that because of the set up of the engine blocks "ally block + iron water jacket" on the cooling system it turns the van into an electrolysis bucket.
That causes overheating and seals to fail due to excessive pressure in the system.
That is caused by a faulty earthing points all around the van.
Here are the earthing points locations:
Behind tail lights
Behind front lights inside of the bay half way on the quarter panels
Behind the engine
Drivers side near the step on the corner of the battery box " some transits at same spot under passenger seat as well as driver's seat"
Also I suggest replacement of the coolant with anti corrosive coolant.
Installation of boating zink+magnesium alloy anodes by threading existing holes on the side of the water jacket sanding back the surface of the hole to clean metal using the button shaped anode smear some electrically conductive grease to maintain good contact bolt it snug and give it at least one point of weld to guarantee good contact. Put about 2 on each side of the block right on the cast iron water jacket and one on each side of the aluminium block.
You can tell if you have electrolysis going on by dunking one of the sticks of the multimeter in the wAter reservoir and mesure for volts (search on TH-cam how to measure electrolysis in cooling system)
Re-do all earth points by wire brushing all contact areas to clean metal, you must remove bolts and clean all surfaces back to bare metal than use silicone grease generously on all bare metal surfaces to avoid it going rusty or corroded just a little corrosion on these points and problems are back so make sure to not save on the di-electric grease.
Transits are not bad to rust, it was a bad manufacturers choice of materials on the engine... ie. Dissimilar metals + water + voltage = electrolysis they should have made the water jacket in cast aluminium! Another bad choice plastic intake, plastic rocker cover is durable but it traps heat in engine, plastic thermostat housing.
It is also advisable to unplug all plugs from the the area under the water reservoir put big blobs of silicon grease on the contacts enough to have the grease squirt through the slots in the plugs all the way to the back of the plugs. This will stop corrosion there and avoid so crazy electrical malfunctioning...
If there is no electrolysis there is only minimal rust in transits they only go badly rusted if these earthing points are not maintained properly
This will permanently stop the rusting process than you repair the points properly and paint them up all of that done and the rust wont come back. The rest is maintenance cleaning keeping water channels clean and not obstructed.
Very good video, most informative.
Thanks for the comment!
Thank you for this tour. About to go have a look in buying one to convert and this is very usefull !
Thanks!
All in all transits are great but people fail to maintain it properly as they get older...
Another tip is using jetski turbo oil in the turbo just by disconnecting the front facing turbo hose and spraying marine turbo oil in between the blade and the case liberally at every fuel filter replacement intervals.
Now do the mechanical issues. you should have also mentioned that the UK has a whole lot of rust panel replacement parts that be bought to fix the common issues. ie. door steps, chassis panels. lower door sections etc.
Useful video, thank you!
Great! Thanks for the comment
Thank, what Iam going to do is get tape and tape both side and silicon all around the van . Just got it .and inside bottom where the seam is.
Could you show how to change cabin air filter?
Brilliant video thank u ❤️👀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Appreciate the comment!
Great vans, I’ve had many. Just a shame about the rust with them!
Could be wrong but pretty sure trannys don’t have wheel arch liners. There just bare.
They are great vans, your correct they don't have liners, I suppose tge idea was to have them pressure washed annually, something most people don't do unfortunately.
Very helpful thanks!
Appreciate the comment, thanks!
This explains why i can carry more weight each year
😂😂😂
My old van the metal was 3 x as thick, so this is diffrent.
Yes, I would like a mechanical one :)
Working on it, watch this space.
What size mig welding wire do you use
0.6 from memory
@@AutoBuddynz thank you
Yep 0.6 is what my welder used to fill some holes on my 2011 transit.
Very thin metal sheet latter on I ended up installing all around doors from a MK6 earlier model with thicker panelling... Now the doors work properly too...
Remember you need to buy a mig welder when buying a transit. 😅
Haha, if buy one thats looked after they are excellent reliable vans.