why would clear crystalize after about 6 months like a shattered window.. saw that .. could have been trapped solvent from too thick an application or maybe materials incompatibility but I don't think so on the incompatibility Thanks... Also I have a vehicle that is stored outside. Its a classic car and needs and overall. unfortunately I just can't dedicate consecutive hours to it so I need something to spray on it after I do the bodywork but before final sanding and base/clear.. what paint can I use? I really don't want to spray a bunch of rattle can garbage on it like ezcoat and I don't want to spend $500 a gallon for something but I need to protect it from rusting
cracking from excessive mils of either the clear, singlestage, the materials below it or all of the above. Temp being extreme hot, cold or both during the curing process over months. Not giving it proper flash times, old catalyst.
High epoxy clears. You can mix with reducer into a bottle, shake it while until the solvents. Evaporate you can stick it in cold water or hot water., to make a flow exactly where you want that makes a difference between a certified technician and a person like you....
Like he said,you can't pound these high solids clears on. I had a learning curve with the 72500 Chromaclear when it first came out. I could make the V7500 like glass. I kept getting bit by solvent pop only in hot weather. Backed off on the material and added an additional 5 percent reducer and fixed the problem. I'm now using PPG V5700 and this stuff is thicker. Still using the same technique with 5 coats and comes out pretty nice.
Charley left me a message once, couldn't believe he returned my call. Wish I lived closer to meet him. Great guy
Great Advice
Let me explain something about clear coat clerko is a plastic holding?...
why would clear crystalize after about 6 months like a shattered window.. saw that .. could have been trapped solvent from too thick an application or maybe materials incompatibility but I don't think so on the incompatibility Thanks... Also I have a vehicle that is stored outside. Its a classic car and needs and overall. unfortunately I just can't dedicate consecutive hours to it so I need something to spray on it after I do the bodywork but before final sanding and base/clear.. what paint can I use? I really don't want to spray a bunch of rattle can garbage on it like ezcoat and I don't want to spend $500 a gallon for something but I need to protect it from rusting
cracking from excessive mils of either the clear, singlestage, the materials below it or all of the above. Temp being extreme hot, cold or both during the curing process over months. Not giving it proper flash times, old catalyst.
@@cryptidsNstuff 4 out of 5 of those are probably the reason
High epoxy clears. You can mix with reducer into a bottle, shake it while until the solvents. Evaporate you can stick it in cold water or hot water., to make a flow exactly where you want that makes a difference between a certified technician and a person like you....
how to contact you
TZ3!!!!!!!
clear doesn't spray like it did 25 years ago. it use to e so easy, now it seems much harder.
it shouldn't be harder. what are you doing to make it harder?
@@13christbane going from low solid materials to high solid materials was the difference for many of us
Get rid of that BINKS MODEL 7 PAINT SPRAY GUN first off .
@@GriffinGriffin-zj5cd
😂😂😂
Like he said,you can't pound these high solids clears on. I had a learning curve with the 72500 Chromaclear when it first came out. I could make the V7500 like glass. I kept getting bit by solvent pop only in hot weather. Backed off on the material and added an additional 5 percent reducer and fixed the problem. I'm now using PPG V5700 and this stuff is thicker. Still using the same technique with 5 coats and comes out pretty nice.
'PromoSM'
I would like to know what clears Charley is using in his shop.
The cheap Chit .. Lol
Global D8152. He says it in some of his videos
Great Advice