I enjoy doing wiring on my cars but you take it to another level. I am very very impressed. The information you’re sharing is outstanding!!!! Thank you!!!!
GM has 9 trays of terminals from around the world. Either a terminal end with a core crimp and insulation crimp, much less and inline repair as shown, soldering is required. I am hoping people research and understand the circuit they are working on as a single terminal sensor is grounded thru the engine block, but the ECM / PCM produces 5 Vdc out, as resistance to ground changes, it pulls the voltage signal down. The most common sensor used is thermistor (NTC or PTC) but a two wire sensor is a permanent magnet generator type. Those wires go to cam, crankshaft, ABS, cam-phase position produce a weak A/C signal. It is best practice to twist these wires 9 times per foot and shielding with a ground wire either added and grounded on both ends, or full shielding woven cover. TPS, MAP and others use a dedicated ground back to the ECM/PCM to keep the sensors signal and control module on the same ground level. This can be seen on an oscilloscope. PCM’s use 4 grounds to “G100” but represent different parts of the computers function. Clock, EEPROM, Memory for backup, Drive circuits. This is where I always remind that ground from the back housing of the alternator is where ground is generated. Providing a large ground to bolt w/star washer to alternator to engine (I prefer a “Tee” soldered connection) but to the battery. Battery ground to chassis, engine to cabin, frame to cabin, and if truck, frame to bed. Not so much in racing, but grounds from frame looping to multiple sensors, frame ground to exhaust if using O2 sensors (Galvanic Action Reduction) but bed to cab if 5 volt proximity sensors are used. The voltage loss of 0.050 is great in a 12.6 - 14.8 Vdc is desired, today, 5 Vdc circuit take a huge hit with any voltage drop. A ground “Splice-Pack” is common the last 20 years and connect multiple grounds to one ground. Positive splice-packs are used as well, sold thru Kent-Moore, but Delphi produced. I always take wire cutters when visiting a salvage yard. When used on a single wire class-2 serial data, cavity #1 goes to OBD-II connector, cavity #2, but when disconnected and the “Comb” removed, allows for a jumper wire to go from device to device, to find short to ground, positive or open. State of Health messages are sent every 2 seconds and if a failure occurs after proper operation is established, the master or module needing info, goes into back-up programming, limp mode, or ignore mode. Theft deterrent system for example looses a 5 Vdc signal from the key module or correct voltage drop, will continue the key to start the vehicle without theft. It just turns on the light. Same with redundancy built into DBW. Some use the second signal, while others enter into limp mode. Or what I call “Tennis shoe Mode”, making the customer walk. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired Thanks for the short video and info.
i pin out 3-5 spare 5 volt inputs and 2-3 spare temp inputs to 2 or 3 pin deutsch dtm series connectors for future upgrade purposes. the car i just wired (go on my facebook page and youll see it 2018 hellcat) i pinned out 12 additional inputs and 6 additional outputs to the firewall bulk head connectors as well as wired the entire car for 2 completely different engines and power adders
Hey devin Is it ok to tie two 5v reference together ? Let’s say connector J3 pin b8 and b22 . I tied them as one wire to connect all my sensor with it. or will this harm the system.
Thanks, Devin! How many senors can the Dominator provide 5v to? I'm planing my harness out and I'm somewhat of a data freak, so the want/need for senors on EVERYTHING is real!
Considering I filled up a dominator with sensors it's safe to say you're gonna be fine I've ran 12 pressure transducers off of 1 5 volt output from ecu with zero issues
So assuming I had 4 sensors like u have laid out right there. your saying I can split my 5v and grounds up as I get further away from harness as I go from sensor to sensor and don’t need to run all 4 of my sensor wiring to one reducer like u have there?
I just tried doing the step down +5v method, it's definitely not working for me I have a transmission sensor and dome pressure sensor on there and dome pressure is pegged at 4.59v with key on. I'm using J2A pin 26 for +5v and J2a pin 18 for sensor ground
So you would suggest breaking out all your sensor grounds and +5v sensor power wires at the same point rather than having tap off of a single run for wherever the sensor pops out along the trunk? I suppose the way you show in the video is many fewer connections so that probably outweighs trying to slim the trunk of the harness.
if using bulkhead connections i make the splice in the boot of the bulkhead. if not i like to do them in a area inside the car thats not in a bent location and yes i always do a single break point
I enjoy doing wiring on my cars but you take it to another level. I am very very impressed. The information you’re sharing is outstanding!!!! Thank you!!!!
This guy is my hero lol. I wish I was this smart with wiring and electronics
Went and looked up the Raychem - definitely not as expensive as I thought. Cheap investment. Thanks for the tips!
Devin to the rescue again. 👍
GM has 9 trays of terminals from around the world. Either a terminal end with a core crimp and insulation crimp, much less and inline repair as shown, soldering is required. I am hoping people research and understand the circuit they are working on as a single terminal sensor is grounded thru the engine block, but the ECM / PCM produces 5 Vdc out, as resistance to ground changes, it pulls the voltage signal down. The most common sensor used is thermistor (NTC or PTC) but a two wire sensor is a permanent magnet generator type. Those wires go to cam, crankshaft, ABS, cam-phase position produce a weak A/C signal. It is best practice to twist these wires 9 times per foot and shielding with a ground wire either added and grounded on both ends, or full shielding woven cover. TPS, MAP and others use a dedicated ground back to the ECM/PCM to keep the sensors signal and control module on the same ground level. This can be seen on an oscilloscope. PCM’s use 4 grounds to “G100” but represent different parts of the computers function. Clock, EEPROM, Memory for backup, Drive circuits. This is where I always remind that ground from the back housing of the alternator is where ground is generated. Providing a large ground to bolt w/star washer to alternator to engine (I prefer a “Tee” soldered connection) but to the battery. Battery ground to chassis, engine to cabin, frame to cabin, and if truck, frame to bed. Not so much in racing, but grounds from frame looping to multiple sensors, frame ground to exhaust if using O2 sensors (Galvanic Action Reduction) but bed to cab if 5 volt proximity sensors are used. The voltage loss of 0.050 is great in a 12.6 - 14.8 Vdc is desired, today, 5 Vdc circuit take a huge hit with any voltage drop. A ground “Splice-Pack” is common the last 20 years and connect multiple grounds to one ground. Positive splice-packs are used as well, sold thru Kent-Moore, but Delphi produced. I always take wire cutters when visiting a salvage yard. When used on a single wire class-2 serial data, cavity #1 goes to OBD-II connector, cavity #2, but when disconnected and the “Comb” removed, allows for a jumper wire to go from device to device, to find short to ground, positive or open. State of Health messages are sent every 2 seconds and if a failure occurs after proper operation is established, the master or module needing info, goes into back-up programming, limp mode, or ignore mode. Theft deterrent system for example looses a 5 Vdc signal from the key module or correct voltage drop, will continue the key to start the vehicle without theft. It just turns on the light. Same with redundancy built into DBW. Some use the second signal, while others enter into limp mode. Or what I call “Tennis shoe Mode”, making the customer walk. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired Thanks for the short video and info.
You're videos are great man! Definitely restarted my wiring with your tips in mind. Keep up the great work!!
Instablaster
You are the man,another butt connector im gonna be buying,thanks.
Just saw this. I asked about these. Awesome video.
I love this because it's such a clean and reliable install, however if you need to add a sensor after the fact it sounds like a real PITA.
i pin out 3-5 spare 5 volt inputs and 2-3 spare temp inputs to 2 or 3 pin deutsch dtm series connectors for future upgrade purposes. the car i just wired (go on my facebook page and youll see it 2018 hellcat) i pinned out 12 additional inputs and 6 additional outputs to the firewall bulk head connectors as well as wired the entire car for 2 completely different engines and power adders
Where did you get those butt connectors from ?
Awesome videos💪 keep them coming 😂😂👍
Great videos I'm learning a lot I've always been soldering everything do I need to start crimping
You ever use raychem stub splices to do that job? It's a solid barrel but half as long as that step down barrel. Helps keep things a bit tighter.
Hey devin
Is it ok to tie two 5v reference together ? Let’s say connector J3 pin b8 and b22 . I tied them as one wire to connect all my sensor with it. or will this harm the system.
Thanks, Devin! How many senors can the Dominator provide 5v to? I'm planing my harness out and I'm somewhat of a data freak, so the want/need for senors on EVERYTHING is real!
Considering I filled up a dominator with sensors it's safe to say you're gonna be fine
I've ran 12 pressure transducers off of 1 5 volt output from ecu with zero issues
This is a very good question. I always wondered what the limit of one of the 5v outputs are. Good to know the answer is “many” lol.
So assuming I had 4 sensors like u have laid out right there. your saying I can split my 5v and grounds up as I get further away from harness as I go from sensor to sensor and don’t need to run all 4 of my sensor wiring to one reducer like u have there?
Stupid me watching all these videos AFTER wiring my car. I know what to do next time. Mine looks terrible🤣. But it works. No wire nuts though
I just tried doing the step down +5v method, it's definitely not working for me I have a transmission sensor and dome pressure sensor on there and dome pressure is pegged at 4.59v with key on. I'm using J2A pin 26 for +5v and J2a pin 18 for sensor ground
What brand do you use for shrink tubing? Thank you
So you would suggest breaking out all your sensor grounds and +5v sensor power wires at the same point rather than having tap off of a single run for wherever the sensor pops out along the trunk? I suppose the way you show in the video is many fewer connections so that probably outweighs trying to slim the trunk of the harness.
if using bulkhead connections i make the splice in the boot of the bulkhead. if not i like to do them in a area inside the car thats not in a bent location and yes i always do a single break point
What do you use and where do u tap into the a26 wire for 5v? Same with sensor ground
Did you actually watch the video ? I dont think you did
I’m sorry. What I meant was where in the harness.
What type of wire do you use?
tefzel 32
What the max wires you can use on in output ?
are you asking how many sensors you can run on a single 5 volt or sensor ground circuit ?
Yes
Should solder that