One of my fondest surf memories is a night sesh at Malibu I shared with my brother back in the 80s, about 3am with a full moon and the most bioluminescent algae I've encountered in 50+ years in the ocean. Our arms glowed as we paddled, the boards leaving a wake like a romulan space ship and the feathering waves easy to see as they peeled bright green.... amazing!!
I was lucky that i caught it on a knee/waist hight swell that just popped up at the end of a day 2 hours before dark, there was only about 10 in but i still had to fight for every wave as about 5 of them had 10ft logs and wanted to snake for every single wave going!!!!
Malibu needs some enforcers to re-establish order like the Wolfpak. Name suggestions for Malibu enforcers: Veganpak, Kalepak, Powercrystalspak, Hempak...
i will NEVER forget a gloomy, slightly drizzly day I decided to go to Malibu it was... the best session to date in my short 4 year career. There was like FOUR people out, 3-4 foot perfect waves.... I got like 5 or 6 perfect waves, I could not believe it :):)
It happens ! One4thof july,3 guys out at The Hook, everybody at beer snd BBQ. HIT THE WATER AND A HUGE SOUTH Swell JUST POPS UP OUTTA NOWHERE. I-got 4 waves from the first set, about 50 waves; ride, paddle out,catch another, hootin and howlin! Best session ever! thenrepeat ;inand out 3 more times. Finally there was about a 5 minute Lull, then another set of 50 or so waves ‘Wow what a gift!! Crankedthe restof the day. And into the next A few moreguys padfled out but most never made it til the nextday! Who wouldathunk on a major holiday? Now surfline would have probably ptedicted it andnrought out the thundering herd! Gracias por favor!! Ask Reggie colburn. He was one of the lucky ones along with me and two other stunned gremmies too that was about 1972? Unbelievable!Dennis M 30 year Hookite! Bestday ever😊😊😊
What a weird dystopian variation of surf culture to fit that spot. Particularly struck by the serial drop in with the bright red cap kneeboarding on a longboard. I hate to think of it spreading to other breaks as it gets even more crowded everywhere.
I'm born and raised in Southern California, surfing for 45 years in Los Angeles and Ventura Counties. There used to be a pecking order at Malibu and some sort of etiquette. It appears that is totally out the window! I haven't surfed Malibu in years. Ever since they diverted the creek and ruined Kiddie Bowls, 2nd and 3rd points. This is a total clown show! 🤡 😂 like Brad said, definitely fun to watch! 😂😂😂 I know Allen still gets his share.
@Bryan-jd7os I remember way back in the day surfing 3rd, and it was pumping. I had the peak, and Sarlo had a wave caddie in between and as soon as I dropped in, the wave caddie dropped in kicking his board in front of me, and im going down then Sarlo dropped in afterward. Lol. Late 70s I think.
I always love the carnage at First Point. It just means more treasures to find when I snorkel on flat days! What's even more crazy than the crowds? They were even out there yesterday and today, with a sewage leak and beach closures!
Surfed there a lot. When second and third we’re good. But even after that almost exclusively for three summers. As a short boarder I jumped on the long board and got plenty waves. Totally worth it and very fond memories. Yeah and Sarlo was there the whole time. 🙃😵💫 This is one of your best videos Brad.
I like the music and your comments. I think I would be watching like you did. The water is already too cold to fight with 10 other people for one wave! LOL! Or maybe wait for one of those empty ones that came in!!! LOL! One good thing... we see most of those guys that choose to drop in having their karma right away. LOL!!!
This video make me feel better. Lol I was wondering if the horrendous etiquette at Malibu is a daily occurrence or just If I was there. Feels like surfing in LA traffic.
We’re really “skunked” here in NE w/waves, a “June Gloom” of our own, and pollution smog alerts(!). Yet just when I think I miss SoCal, I see this craziness.😮
I started surfing the Bu in 1964. I was 12. Now I am 71 living in New Zealand. Crowds are about the same when swell is in. The trick wss and is knowing when the swell will arrive
Brad , why were those waves unridden ? Because on a long period South swell , the wait between sets always lures the crowd inside because the feeding frenzy is contagious. If you are 20 yards too far inside, you don't have a prayer of catching a good wave. I used this knowledge to score on countless waves. Patience Grasshoper .
Yup, I learned this log riding South Shore Oahu. Long periods paddle further out and catch it early! Town, Ewa Beach and White Planes Beach catch em outside and love the day!
This is why I don’t surf anymore after 41 years of passionately following the surf around the world. You can’t even go to the most out of the way middle of fukn nowhere and 200 surfers are living there. What a run though. It’s a much different world now. Grew up in Boynton Beach Florida before I-95 was built. Grew up in paradise and didn’t even know it.
I got 6 minutes in and first came the bewilderment, then the anger, then anxiety took over! I wonder how many and what the stages of overcrowded lineup there are for a surfer. 😳
I think it's sad, but then I grew up surfing when it was easy to find mostly empty waves. I feel bad for the current generation of SoCal surfers, but thankful my buds and I scored. TIMING is everything. Malibu is a Clown Car.
I grew up in the valley and I’ve probably searched Malibu 100 times. The wave is epic and I’ve had my best surf adventures ever there. But on a good day when the waves are head high, it’s a complete zoo with 50 or 60 guys in the water. People getting run over, fights, shouting matches, are not uncommon. It’s not really surfing, It’s just survival. The only way to have fun at Malibu is Catch it at off times and hours. Now and then when the crowd is low its stellar.
Malibu on a crowded day is "Chinese Downhill" on the water. I grew up surfing there and Topanga and the rest of the breaks between Hollywood by the Sea to The South Bay. in the 1980's Hollywood by the sea was the most radicalized, locals only beach in the entire state. We would get into fights all the time, friends would have their tires slashed and side mirrors broken. Kowabunga!
I remember summers in the early 80's at the HB pier when you could still pick up a garage sale longboard for $50. The more ugly the better - an answer to crowd control and light weight glass jobs. Eventually everyone knew you didn't care about dings and most would would get out of your way... well except for maybe Waterman who snaked everyone then yelled at them for dropping in, Colby Outlaw or Bud Llamas. Sometimes I miss HB but only when I know Santa Ana's and a 6-8 foot south swell is going off.
1:23 That was so rude of that surfer to splash that other surfer with water. Now they’re all wet and covered in water, not cool. Nobody wands to be wet
Malibu is fun but so darn crowded. I would say that the wave wraps much more than other waves, so that when I've looked over my shoulder before going, I legitimately have not seen anyone if someone is way up the line.
Hey Brad, some cracking tunes here! Thanks for putting me onto Par Hagstrom and love 'Drive By", but who is Laurence Lee Murphy? can't find any info on this guy!
😂 … love your humorous and classic take. My mom used to surf this in late 50’s and saw how some dealt with drop ins … with razor blades placed into tips of some boards … a slice to whatever body part of a drop in scored on a point system with the head being highest score. And then there was Dora. I was too young, fortunately!
Love the WSL idea! You think you are hot stuff? So do the other 697 other guys on the same wave. Gota give them really bright colors so everyone knows who to target for the drop in.
The wave does look fun. Just have to deal with a ton of people. I would definitely check elsewhere. Getting a good set to yourself and connect all the way it would be worth it every now and then.
The cost of living, traffic and crowds out there keep me from going back home. To be fair I see crowds everywhere but Africa or Ecuador and Iceland or Scotland these days if the surf is halfway decent
So Malibu, has to offer: Pounding traffic and fumes right by the shore Water with yucky rocks by the water line. Horribly crowded beach Horribly crowded water, and crowded with rude people who hurt each other...and I bet your best bathing suit that they sue EVERYONE if they break a fingernail. Gee, ain't it grand being rich so you can relax (?) there, at super premium property prices and taxes....if your house hasn't burnt down. Yet.
You make strong arguments. However, except for the "yucky rocks." If you surf at high tide, there's no rocks at high tide. You can surf onto the sand. (by the pier.)
@@greenman6141 God bless. My dad's house almost burned down in the 1985 fire, the ~1992 fire, his kitchen stovetop caught on fire once, that's at least 3 times, if not maybe 4 times now. Fires in CA are a problem. For sure.
@@vickryan I hope your father was okay in all those. Me, I live nearish the shore, but on the other side of the continent. Not near enough for strong sea breeze, just near enough to get serious kickings from nor'easters from Oct to March. Close enough for global warming to put me below the waves like someone from Lovecraft's Innsmouth? Certianly close enough so that I should stop being snarky or smug about fire when I could soon be wishing I had gills.
@@greenman6141 i remembered #4, it was when the neighbor house burned down. That could have ignited a large forest fire potentially. Luckily it was contained to the one single house. That is #4th time my Dad nearly could have lost his house due to fire.
Surf etiquette? Is that some sort of new concept? Must be cause I sure don't see much anymore! But for me it's all good (as long as there's no injuries). I figure that if you go somewhere where there's lots of people you just have to expect you'll be sharing waves. Just feel lucky you've got the ability and health to get in the water & have fun!
This is Topanga on an average day. All the kooks sit inside on the shoulder and if you get in deep you better high line past them and cut back into a makable section if God is with you.
Major props for the Bruce Brown-esque narration: "He's so ripped, he even ripped his suit!"
Who the hell looks at that and says, "Yea I'll go out!"
Alan Sarlo. That's who.🤙
@@richardelg4412 heeeeeeewwww
People that just graduated from their first surf school lesson.
Everyone it looks like…. 🙈
I would. It all depends on the circumstances
I think that your idea of a surf contest crowded with regular people is a great idea honestly.
Could have the other competitors playing defense lol
I love the way when they drop in they just look straight ahead and dont even look to see if anyone is on it. Its like if I dont look, i cant see you.
Ha Ha , good one !
They didn't see you because they didn't look
I always appreciate the vibe of your videos - a mix of education, comedy and fun. We humans are an unusual bunch
One of my fondest surf memories is a night sesh at Malibu I shared with my brother back in the 80s, about 3am with a full moon and the most bioluminescent algae I've encountered in 50+ years in the ocean. Our arms glowed as we paddled, the boards leaving a wake like a romulan space ship and the feathering waves easy to see as they peeled bright green.... amazing!!
Ditto. Full moon fog less with a moderate south swell between 2nd and 1st point late 70s and 80s. Fish cruise by illuminated.
Suring my whole life. I surfed Malibu one time and that was enough for me. Felt like I was on the 405 fwy in rush hour.
I was lucky that i caught it on a knee/waist hight swell that just popped up at the end of a day 2 hours before dark, there was only about 10 in but i still had to fight for every wave as about 5 of them had 10ft logs and wanted to snake for every single wave going!!!!
Do realize that there is a lot more etiquette at kiddy bowl and third.
Malibu needs some enforcers to re-establish order like the Wolfpak.
Name suggestions for Malibu enforcers: Veganpak, Kalepak, Powercrystalspak, Hempak...
Yea, it's a beautiful longboard wave, but I don't think I'd even paddle out. Too much traffic.
Personally I think Malibu is providing a great service to Socal surfing. More kooks surfing there, means less kooks elsewhere. Thanks Malibu!
Look how polite and courteous those surfers are... I've lived here my entire life.
Happy a super fun day brah
i will NEVER forget a gloomy, slightly drizzly day I decided to go to Malibu
it was... the best session to date in my short 4 year career. There was like FOUR people out, 3-4 foot perfect waves.... I got like 5 or 6 perfect waves, I could not believe it
:):)
I call these Unicorn Sessions. Nothing like it.
@@elizabethsimpson7103 yup!! exactly it :)
It happens ! One4thof july,3 guys out at The Hook, everybody at beer snd BBQ. HIT THE WATER AND A HUGE SOUTH
Swell JUST POPS UP OUTTA NOWHERE. I-got 4 waves from the first set, about 50 waves; ride, paddle out,catch another, hootin and howlin! Best session ever! thenrepeat ;inand out 3 more times. Finally there was about a 5 minute
Lull, then another set of 50 or so waves ‘Wow what a gift!! Crankedthe restof the day. And into the next A few moreguys padfled out but most never made it til the nextday! Who wouldathunk on a major holiday? Now surfline would have probably ptedicted it andnrought out the thundering herd! Gracias por favor!! Ask Reggie colburn. He was one of the lucky ones along with me and two other stunned gremmies too that was about 1972? Unbelievable!Dennis M 30 year Hookite! Bestday ever😊😊😊
@@dennismcvey9719 wowwwwww :)
What a weird dystopian variation of surf culture to fit that spot. Particularly struck by the serial drop in with the bright red cap kneeboarding on a longboard. I hate to think of it spreading to other breaks as it gets even more crowded everywhere.
I'm born and raised in Southern California, surfing for 45 years in Los Angeles and Ventura Counties. There used to be a pecking order at Malibu and some sort of etiquette. It appears that is totally out the window! I haven't surfed Malibu in years. Ever since they diverted the creek and ruined Kiddie Bowls, 2nd and 3rd points. This is a total clown show! 🤡 😂 like Brad said, definitely fun to watch! 😂😂😂
I know Allen still gets his share.
And they didn't have a surf shop, renting longboards to tourists and kooks!
the richer it got the shitier
Sarlo was the biggest 🐍 out there. I spent my teens living in Venice and SM with the Dogtown and Z boyz crew. Malibu was far less crowded then. P
@michaelfarar4232 oh yeah, I'm sure Allen was getting his share!
@Bryan-jd7os I remember way back in the day surfing 3rd, and it was pumping. I had the peak, and Sarlo had a wave caddie in between and as soon as I dropped in, the wave caddie dropped in kicking his board in front of me, and im going down then Sarlo dropped in afterward. Lol. Late 70s I think.
I always love the carnage at First Point. It just means more treasures to find when I snorkel on flat days!
What's even more crazy than the crowds? They were even out there yesterday and today, with a sewage leak and beach closures!
I found a Nikonos Dive camera at Secos in the 90's
Let’s get the Brad Invitational running this summer in a full Malibu crowd!
Everyone for them self, who’s gonna be on the podium 😂
100 men enter 1 man leaves
I started surfing Malibu in 1963. It was the same then when a south swell came. 😊
Surfed there a lot. When second and third
we’re good. But even after that almost exclusively for three summers. As a short boarder I jumped on the long board and got plenty waves. Totally worth it and very fond memories. Yeah and Sarlo was there the whole time. 🙃😵💫
This is one of your best videos Brad.
Children of the corn. There's Allen at 2:40. Thanks for the work,Brad !
Freaking perfect! This reminds me of Big Surf in Tempe (RIP awesome waist high wave)..
Grew up in Southern Cali. Spent many years at Malibu, Zuma, Redondo. 30 years ago, it was beautiful. You can keep it now.
full crowd surf contest!! brilliant
WSL contest among the crowd, I like it! most realistic competition there would be
Surf comp idea with everyone out is genius
I like the music and your comments. I think I would be watching like you did. The water is already too cold to fight with 10 other people for one wave! LOL! Or maybe wait for one of those empty ones that came in!!! LOL! One good thing... we see most of those guys that choose to drop in having their karma right away. LOL!!!
Great Idea!! Have the " Pros " bang it out in real life conditions. How many do you think would make their wave count???
This video make me feel better. Lol I was wondering if the horrendous etiquette at Malibu is a daily occurrence or just If I was there. Feels like surfing in LA traffic.
i really like the idea of holding a pro competition to open surf. pros can drop in on each other also. I would watch.
So many familiar faces! Great vid!
Thanks!
THAT PINK VAN OMG I SEE IT EVERY MORNING.
The wave killer rides alone thanks for your time brad !
To everyone reading this. Keep surfing 1st point! Definitely the best wave up the coast. No other good south swell spots. Trust me, don't look.
Makes you appreciate places like Westward Ho in Devon UK. It's beginner waves but it's total opposite to this mess! You always find space to practice!
We’re really “skunked” here in NE w/waves, a “June Gloom” of our own, and pollution smog alerts(!). Yet just when I think I miss SoCal, I see this craziness.😮
I love watching this!
Holly Molly😳 and I thought Snapper/ Coolangatta was mental sometimes to surf, this is another level plus everyone has a go at everyone! 😬😬
Happy to see the ants on the candybar are still avoiding 2nd point.
2nd is increasingly closing out and 3rd is basically toast. They can’t bring that dam down fast enough.
"He looked over his shoulder, he stared right at me. And he's still dropping in on me."😂😂😂😂😂.
I started surfing the Bu in 1964. I was 12. Now I am 71 living in New Zealand. Crowds are about the same when swell is in. The trick wss and is knowing when the swell will arrive
Brad , why were those waves unridden ?
Because on a long period South swell , the wait between sets always lures the crowd inside because the feeding frenzy is contagious.
If you are 20 yards too far inside, you don't have a prayer of catching a good wave.
I used this knowledge to score on countless waves.
Patience Grasshoper .
Yup, I learned this log riding South Shore Oahu. Long periods paddle further out and catch it early! Town, Ewa Beach and White Planes Beach catch em outside and love the day!
This is the best idea ever, a contest in a crowded place. Would also work for a sk8 contest in a crowded skatepark.
I dropped in on Sarlo once in the early 80’s.. haven’t since. He barks at you really loud. Really, he barks.
This is why I don’t surf anymore after 41 years of passionately following the surf around the world. You can’t even go to the most out of the way middle of fukn nowhere and 200 surfers are living there. What a run though. It’s a much different world now. Grew up in Boynton Beach Florida before I-95 was built. Grew up in paradise and didn’t even know it.
Best idea I ever heard
Who wins, Doho or Malibu?
I got 6 minutes in and first came the bewilderment, then the anger, then anxiety took over! I wonder how many and what the stages of overcrowded lineup there are for a surfer. 😳
Surfed there a couple times. It was very crowded, but a fun wave with a little size. Glad I at least experienced it. 🤙
I can't believe my home break in the 80s became a tourist attraction. GOAway!!
I think it's sad, but then I grew up surfing when it was easy to find mostly empty waves. I feel bad for the current generation of SoCal surfers, but thankful my buds and I scored. TIMING is everything. Malibu is a Clown Car.
King of the wave
1:32 please 🙏 😂 I would love that.
such a nice wave that i would love to try some day but the drop in situation is insane
I went on a day with 19kt winds and 1-2 feet, got it alone for an hour
That was fun, then I joined ya..
Try it at daybreak. You might score one.
Dudes splashing water at each other, while they're already IN the water. Like, "Steal my wave, and I'm gonna flick a booger at you!"
I grew up in the valley and I’ve probably searched Malibu 100 times. The wave is epic and I’ve had my best surf adventures ever there. But on a good day when the waves are head high, it’s a complete zoo with 50 or 60 guys in the water. People getting run over, fights, shouting matches, are not uncommon. It’s not really surfing, It’s just survival. The only way to have fun at Malibu is Catch it at off times and hours. Now and then when the crowd is low its stellar.
Malibu on a crowded day is "Chinese Downhill" on the water. I grew up surfing there and Topanga and the rest of the breaks between Hollywood by the Sea to The South Bay.
in the 1980's Hollywood by the sea was the most radicalized, locals only beach in the entire state. We would get into fights all the time, friends would have their tires slashed and side mirrors broken.
Kowabunga!
I remember summers in the early 80's at the HB pier when you could still pick up a garage sale longboard for $50. The more ugly the better - an answer to crowd control and light weight glass jobs. Eventually everyone knew you didn't care about dings and most would would get out of your way... well except for maybe Waterman who snaked everyone then yelled at them for dropping in, Colby Outlaw or Bud Llamas. Sometimes I miss HB but only when I know Santa Ana's and a 6-8 foot south swell is going off.
1:23 That was so rude of that surfer to splash that other surfer with water. Now they’re all wet and covered in water, not cool. Nobody wands to be wet
Malibu is fun but so darn crowded. I would say that the wave wraps much more than other waves, so that when I've looked over my shoulder before going, I legitimately have not seen anyone if someone is way up the line.
Whenever I drive through LA I always wonder who would want to live there.
I guess these people 😂
Those are the real Kooks!!! Dropping in , no etiquette, just straight up Kooks!!!’ I’m glad it’s down there and not here!!!
Where's Allen Sarlo ?
Great flick and good fun watching the mess that Malibu and surfing in general has become.
Again the menace in the helmet dropping in
Definitely no mercy in this dojo🤣
great video!! not a surfer...can someone explain the proper etiquette for dropping in a wave? First surfer in gets the wave?
Sarlo casually out there killing it, what a legend. half the board size, twice the weight and age of the average bu surfer but still shredding.
Keeping the Bruce Brown humor vibe mixed in, way to carry on the tradition.....Pro contest with everyone out. Lmao.
One of la’s best waves
Hey Brad, some cracking tunes here!
Thanks for putting me onto Par Hagstrom and love 'Drive By", but who is Laurence Lee Murphy? can't find any info on this guy!
Have a roller derby surf contest, where the guy who can de-board the most surfers wins!
Burrrrrrrrrrr, looks really cold , hoods and booties! 86 degree water here in the Phil !
Awesome video brad, what a zoo!
What's the song coming in at 7:23? Thanks!
that wsl comp idea is brilliant I wished they did it
Dewwwwd, the Bu Dude, no more Sarlo🦍 & The Cabana Boys and it's Mayhem
That lack of edict would have serious consequences down under. Unbelievable! Crazzzzy.
you obviously haven't seen Snapper or Noosa. same same its shocking
@@jaketyler9191 true dat!
Honestly I want to surf Malibu so bad it’s in my bucket list
I'd enjoy watching pros in this environment, but I'd also like to see a couple hockey players out there teaching these boys some manners.
Best recommendation for the WSL. That would be way more entertaining than the boring crap they have now with new format
It's a great beginner place to learn surf.
Yeah, right. Or die trying.
Looks hectic but no lie I’d still paddle out 😂
What was the woman on the red and yellow kneeboard thinking?
😂 … love your humorous and classic take. My mom used to surf this in late 50’s and saw how some dealt with drop ins … with razor blades placed into tips of some boards … a slice to whatever body part of a drop in scored on a point system with the head being highest score. And then there was Dora. I was too young, fortunately!
That activity is such a disgrace, I could only make to around 1:50, I wanted to punch the screen on my Mac - KOOOOOOOOKS !!
Yeah there’s always a bunch of Donkey’s surfing Malibu.
Love the WSL idea! You think you are hot stuff? So do the other 697 other guys on the same wave. Gota give them really bright colors so everyone knows who to target for the drop in.
great idea for competition. would have to be some ground rules for the non-competitors out there but it could be wild
Ground rules would ruin the whole idea. No, it's got to be absolute free for all. I would call in sick to work to see that. Or be in it!
Can someone tell me how this lack of etiquette happen at Malibu, and why do people drop in on each other so much, and ignore the person on the inside?
that's incredible. why do people go out?
You don't know how fun 2' surf can be till you try it there.
@@SoulDaddy33 i've surfed out there many many times. i live less than an hr away
The wave does look fun. Just have to deal with a ton of people. I would definitely check elsewhere. Getting a good set to yourself and connect all the way it would be worth it every now and then.
@@EMan-cu5zo it's one of the best waves in the world. that works against it
How do some people manage to not catch back the wave
Thanks Brad!
Being from Santa Barbara, we always laughed at the ridiculous crowds at "Mala-Zoo". Thank God we didn't have to surf there.
Ditto!!! Yor comments restore my faith in decency!!! Thank u!!!
I can bla bla bla...
Cheers to all good people
THATS HOW THEY DRIVE AS WELL !!!! THEY SEE YOU COMING AND STILL PULL OUT IN FRONT
Epic wanted to stop watching but couldn’t
Malibu first point, and Doheny and Huntington Pier are always crowded
The cost of living, traffic and crowds out there keep me from going back home. To be fair I see crowds everywhere but Africa or Ecuador and Iceland or Scotland these days if the surf is halfway decent
Of course everyones dropping in on each other... its LA!
"It's hard to get a wave to yourself." Proceeds to film 20+ guys getting waves to themselves.
Rincon is a much better bet, and a better wave IMHO
I don't get it, there must be somewhere less crowded nearby
So Malibu, has to offer:
Pounding traffic and fumes right by the shore
Water with yucky rocks by the water line.
Horribly crowded beach
Horribly crowded water, and crowded with rude people who hurt each other...and I bet your best bathing suit that they sue EVERYONE if they break a fingernail.
Gee, ain't it grand being rich so you can relax (?) there, at super premium property prices and taxes....if your house hasn't burnt down. Yet.
You make strong arguments. However, except for the "yucky rocks." If you surf at high tide, there's no rocks at high tide. You can surf onto the sand. (by the pier.)
@@vickryan I stand corrected!!
@@greenman6141 God bless. My dad's house almost burned down in the 1985 fire, the ~1992 fire, his kitchen stovetop caught on fire once, that's at least 3 times, if not maybe 4 times now. Fires in CA are a problem. For sure.
@@vickryan I hope your father was okay in all those. Me, I live nearish the shore, but on the other side of the continent. Not near enough for strong sea breeze, just near enough to get serious kickings from nor'easters from Oct to March.
Close enough for global warming to put me below the waves like someone from Lovecraft's Innsmouth? Certianly close enough so that I should stop being snarky or smug about fire when I could soon be wishing I had gills.
@@greenman6141 i remembered #4, it was when the neighbor house burned down. That could have ignited a large forest fire potentially. Luckily it was contained to the one single house. That is #4th time my Dad nearly could have lost his house due to fire.
Surf etiquette? Is that some sort of new concept? Must be cause I sure don't see much anymore! But for me it's all good (as long as there's no injuries). I figure that if you go somewhere where there's lots of people you just have to expect you'll be sharing waves. Just feel lucky you've got the ability and health to get in the water & have fun!
This is Topanga on an average day. All the kooks sit inside on the shoulder and if you get in deep you better high line past them and cut back into a makable section if God is with you.
I've been meaning to take time and film Topanga. I'm always amazed every time I drive by. Just as crowded.