I have had same model for 41 years. I have put up 150k on it. Early diode boards gave problems. Clutch will go after about 60k. If you use it for long journeys expect to replace steering head bearings every 60k. My gearbox packed in at 150k. Some parts unavailable unfortunately. Cast iron front disks help handling. Morgan carbtune gets the carbs spot on. I have a Honda SP2 and a ST1100 also. On back roads I am quicker on the BM. Fork brace at mudguard helps. Get an Odeesy gel battery as starter has to work hard. I have been all over Europe and UK on this bike. Of all my bikes in my collection this is one I will not sell. Liam Dublin
Hi Liam I am looking for a frame for a R100 or a non runner to suit my engine i have a real good engine the reason am asking you is am in Dublin also . Thanks Michael
What a lovely bike stunning colour. I understand your comment "this is a 1970s bike and if it were perfect it wouldn't be as charming" I have a 1978 kawasaki Z1000A2 which isn't perfect but I love it. I do have a 2005 BMW r1200rt which I adore but still has a clunky gearbox when engaging first gear but the handling is amazing. I see your video is 2 years old hope your still riding the old beemer.
Recently acquired my first BMW after 50 years on mostly hooligan sport bikes. A beautifully restored R100RT (sans the fairing but got the bags), and it has a balanced engine, and I just fitted a Racetech front suspension : (emulators and new straight springs) and new Racetech rear shocks. Love the thing! Handles very well, beautiful melodious exhaust sound, and it loves to move along at 60 - 80 mph. Very happy with it.
Great review. I had a 1979 R100RT in 1984 and my first of many BMWs. I have a 1979 RS which is close to your bike. In 1984 the brakes seemed fine by the measure of the day. These days the front brake is shockingly weak for a twin disk setup but I love the look of the ATE callipers. The cable to master cylinder adds to complexity and loss of braking effort. I’ve used a Venhill cable and made sure everything is as good as possible. A later master cylinder on the bars helps but riding within the bike’s limits is essential. I was lucky enough to be able to buy mercury vacuum gauges to get the carbs spot on. Utterly essential on any big twin. The later bikes had lighter flywheels so even more critical. These old bikes are well made tractors really and stand the test of time for real world practicality. They are very easy to work on and the few quirks are well covered by high quality web sites and TH-cam clips. Happy riding!
I have a 1981 R100CS and it is the bike I can always rely on. As mentioned in the video, carburetor synchronization is key to a smooth operation of the engine. It has to be done with great care. A quarter of a turn of the adjustment screws makes a noticeable difference (also true for other Twins with separate carbs). That way you can shift the harmonics to your liking. I use wilbers shocks on the rear and they are very good. Another improvement is the use of glued in (loctite) undersized head races (as provided by emil schwarz). But of course the real game changer (and best bang for the buck) is a modern tyre. I used BT45 for over 10 years and they are excellent (also at full speed on the autobahn), but will on next occasion probabely test the conti classic attack, since that one is a radial tyre. Concerning the brakes you could consider a swap to the later version without cable. Used parts should be available at reasonable prices but care has to be taken to identify the optimal hydraulic cylinder size (Rabenbauer in Bavaria is a good address to ask for a complete parts kit, but of course more expensive than Ebay).
Hi from Tasmania. The front tire you have fitted is more than likely the cause of your weave complaints. In the day BMWs were either fitted with Metzler or Continental RIBBED front tyres. These may not be available now but Hidenau make a very good replica of these old tyres. Any ribbed pattern tyre of the correct size is good. Any block pattern tyre of any size regardless of the make is asking for trouble. The bikes were designed around a ribbed front tyre. Also fitting a larger front tyres than recommended is possible but will make the steering a little heavier. Some owners fit heavier fork oil. This is a mistake that allows impact forces to not be absorbed by the front suspension and transmitted to the steering and frame and then a massive tank slipper may eventuate. The design of the bike does have limitations and a pre disposition to do this hence the steering dampers. Block pattern tyres make the tendency much worse. I catastrophically cart wheeled a r100/7 at 120kph and learned a lesson the hard way. The optional stiffer but slightly shorter fork springs are fine but avoid at all cost heavier fork oil or excess oil. Ribbed front tyres do follow longitudinal road irregularities at lower to mid speeds but as a trade off for good directional handling they simply are the only answer, all else being in good condition. On that point steering bearings should be in good condition and tensioned to a point that when on the center stand the forks will gradually fall away from the center position with a gentle prompt. Not binding but not loose. Cheers Stephen. R75/5, R100/7, R100S, R100RT, R75/5 (again), R100GS, K100RT, R75/6, R100RT x2.
My experience has been that any airhead bikes in otherwise original and good fettle with ribbed front tires and blockish rears will not weave. Block pattern fronts, worn or poorly adjusted steering bearings will cause problems. The R75/6 falls into that category. No new R series airhead bikes from /5 to monos weave when new and all are fitted with more or less ribbed fronts.
I have a chunky aluminum top clamp as standard. Fitting a dual loop brace over the front mudguard made a huge and totally unexpected improvement though. Rear shocks less-so in my case (but done afterward). I've just made frame braces and they have also had a surprising effect on head shake and vibration, if not so obvious in handling.
Good information SIR!! I had a 1978 BMW R80 7!!!!! Had 72 thousand miles!!! Had the sport fairing with a Little taller shield and a Corbin two up seat!!! Always started and ran well!!! Had a bmw carry rack behind seat!!! I paid 2grand for the bike in 1995!!!! Eventually sold it and have had 7 or 8 HARLEY DAVIDSONS SINCE!!! NOW IM LOOKING TO BUY A BMW!!! 1978 R100S is what I'm looking for!!!! I want a vintage bike that I can ride 100 or 200 miles whenever I get the urge to do so!!!! Thanks for the Good VIDEO SIR!!!!!
Love this! A family member has informed me that he is down sizing and it looks like I’ll be taking his 1978, almost exactly like yours but a different fairing. I’m pretty thrilled! I’m sure I’ll be watching this video a few more times before mine/his shows up later this summer!
Well done overview of your bike. Iam on my 3 rd r90 over many years . My latest has a head gasket leak and since Iam no mechanic but it’s a problem finding someone who knows how to do it correctly let alone trusting someone new to do the work.
I've had a 1981 R65 since 1982. That year Leufmeister made a fairing for the R65 with a factory paint match (turquoise) Put stiffer springs in the forks and no dive on breaking and corners. Has a great look just over the windshield when cruising. Krousers too. Just bought a 1984 R100 all original with new Krousers. I've been wanting a 1000cc beamer for a while now and it is great. I have a whole other gear on top of 4K RPM at 65 MPH compared to the R65 that moves me out to 70/75 at 3/4K rpm in Fifth gear. It Is FAB! Thanks for your video...great info and well done...
I owned an R65 thirty years ago. Sold it cos I did not like the vibration in the handlebars at certain revs. The bigger R100 model i have owned did not have this vibration. Did like the bike though. Its little brother, R45, I have never seen one, ever.
@@keithad6485 I found that with each checkup eg. (1000/15000) the vibration at 15K at 3500 RPM was moved up to 4000 RPM. It does take a while to break in these bikes. My Idle was perfect in that you could actually hear the pistons hissing as they slide in and out.
Me too, after over thirty years of pretty much no bike riding, just bought a 1981 R00RT. My mate has just offered to sell me his R100/7 which has been sitting idle for over thirty years! in his mechanics work shop. Price is tempting. BTW my RT has a noise similar to an exhaust leak where the exhaust pipe enters he cylinder head. Though it sounds like an exhaust escaping noise, it disappears as soon as I squeeze the clutch leaver. First thought was thrust bearing, but not sure. Any ideas?
I have a '77 R75/7 with a 1,000cc Siebenrock power kit. As in your comments when I first bought it the front end felt light and weaved at speed. The simple fix was to remove the bullet fairing. If you read reviews of the R90S when it first came out it had a similar problem, the fairing lifting the front end instead of pushing it down. With the fairing removed it is very stable even at very high speed without the need for a steering damper or fork brace. The other point that you raised was the brakes. I have ATE dual discs and calipers on my R75/7 as with your R100. When I first bought the motorcycle it had a single after market caliper ( no idea what) which didn't work at all, Replacing this with a single original ATE caliper made a significant difference. Putting 2x ATE calipers on with the correct size under tank master cyliinder 914mm) made a massive difference and now it is possible to lock the front wheel. Likewise the clutch is light with easy gear changes. The secret to these motorcycles is having them properly set up. My motorcycle is completely original (other than electronic ignition and IKON rear shocks with new tyres as you have described) with a little bit of work it is now my everyday motorcylce and covers about 10,000 miles a year with both city and motorway riding. I feel no need to buy a newer motorcycle and it really is quite incredible how good this motorcyle is to ride nearly 50 years after it first left the showroom.
Good review. I improved the handling on my 74 R90S with rear Progressive gas shocks but I also heli-arc welded a fabricated .080” DOM tubing cage onto the bottom of the swing arm. A 6” bender worked perfectly. I must say I got the idea from the San Jose BMW catalog. My clutch grabbed (only when hot) from oil leakage. Not passed the main seal, but around the end of the crank where it fits into the flywheel. I sealed that end with a thin bead of RTV. I too think the Avon Roadrider MKII are by far the best handling tires. Cheers mate.😊
I have had three 100r also have a 79 triumph 750 which I love , but if I was going on a long trip , I would take the BMW , they are 70s machines , but they are great bikes,
Great video and commentary. I own this same bike and can verify everything you said. When I first got it, I thought "BMW designed the clunk into the gearbox and have never changed it". After owning several other modern BMWs, I had to accept it or just believe that it was me - I just couldn't shift. I don't have the problem with other bikes, however, and can only feel verified when someone else agrees. And brakes? I thought I was going in the ditch the first time I had it on the street. You just have to adjust your braking distance. But, overall, I'm with you - it was a great bike for its time and is still wonderful today. Thanks for the honest review.
Holding good speed on an old airhead is an art form, but doable. I had some sports bikers pull over to let me pass on my local twists the other week whilst out on my 79rt........didnt seem happy with being unable to loose 42 yr old dinosaur. Running metzeler tyres too, found them a vast improvement on the bridgestones, be interested to see what the Michelins are like.
Nice bike, great video. I've been riding airheads for 20 years. You should be able to get smooth gear changes with the clutch set up correctly and preloading the lever. If not, then assume there's something wrong in there. As for the handling, i've ridden boxers of similar spec and not had that problem. Getting all of the variables correct is the key. But can be quite a lot of work to do. Wedgetail ignition is a good upgrade.
I am using a billet aluminum triple clamp and Conti-Go tires with YSS-Z shocks. The YSS shocks have allot of adjustability that includes overall length. The triple clamp allows me to move the forks up and down. With this setup I can alter rake and trail. The bike handles like a dream. Even if I didn't change the rake and trail, the solid triple clamp makes a huge difference. In my opinion, the first thing to improve handling is the triple clamp. Mine is from Toastertan.
I have had and still have a lot of BMW motorcycles, but one my favorite boxer was a 1978 R100/7. It had double disc out front and drum rear. It also had the factory mags which I ptefer over spoke wheels. I had the euro bars with K100 mirrors and the sport front springs with a real good fork brace (forgot the brand) and the stock Boge sport springs and shocks. I also had the dual horns and a Mayer "Daylong Saddle). I rode that bike over 100,000 miles before I sold it. Adjustment of the swingarm bearing and proper greasing is essential for good road manners. In my view this was the pinnacle of the BMW Air Heads.
The master cylinder modification is an absolute must on BMWs. I won’t run one for many years with the laser handlebar mounted master cylinder. I also had the twin leading to drum which I adored, but it would be no good for a bike with more power. Mine was only 600 I’m afraid to say, I sold a model 600 190 5000 miles on the clock on eBay and a chat from Poland actually came over and pick it up. I’m still regretting ever selling that bike. PS I do like k75 preferably with ABS but I would still have another 600 series 6 tomorrow. If one turned up I always found with tires the original not the modern day road Runner tires were better. The modern day ones I’ve never been happy with them. Have fun. Enjoy the program Michael
Lovely example of a bike you have there. Just looking at your front fork travel it would seem to be quite excessive for a regular country road. I could imagine a slightly higher spring rate would provide a significant improvement in control and feel at the front end without ruining comfort or overwhelming the damping. A low cost investment too.
Yes, the fairing is the problem. Road tests on the R90S report a similar problem, When I first bought my R75/7 it had a similar problem with feeling very light at the front at speed with the fairing actually lifting the front end, removing the fairing fixed the problem.
I bought an iceberg blue metallic '79 R100RS in Munich, rode it to England, Scotland, and Wales, shipped it to the US and rode it 65k miles in the US before selling it in Oregon in '92. Your bike is similar in so many ways. It also had a minor speed wobble decelerating from 60 mph. I sold it since the US was moving off leaded gas, as well as other reasons. I wish I'd kept it. :(
Great review and clearly narrative, I own an old Yamaha fazer600 98 , think the carbs need balancing on that , haven’t got a clue how you do it , cheers shane uk 🇬🇧
Nice video I have a 79RT fitted with a 1992 engine it pulls well and I am in total agreement with your opinion of the dual disc brakes and planning to upgrade to the handlebar mounted master cylinder and possibly better calipers
Good summary of the "Gummi-ku" (German for "rubber cow") riding characteristics of these late '70's BMW twins. The bikes handling can be tightened right up though - replacing the oh so soft long travel OEM fork springs, fitting modern rear shocks, replacing the OEM steering head bearings and ensuring proper torque settings on the steering head bearings themselves, fitting a fork brace, fitting a stiffer top triple tree bracket (so the forks don't "walk" under hard cornering/braking), proper fitment of swingarm bushes, and modern tires. You don't have to put up with the unhinged feeling on the bike when pushing it - one more thing, proper riding technique - these bikes will NOT reward modern "point and shoot" riding styles - they are best ridden with smooth, deliberate inputs from the rider - smooth throttle, smooth coordination of clutch/throttle for upshift/downshifts, applying a touch of rear brake for trail braking into turns (to settle the rear suspension) - master these approaches and they are surprisingly supple, fast and capable motorcycles - and far better machines than those from competitor manufacturers of the day.
You know these machines well. Very insightful. 1982 RS here with 38 Dells, smaller brake masters, revised fork damping, IKON shocks, Billet aluminium triple clamp, Telefix fork brace, external Oil filter Euromotoelectrics full ignition, OEM heated grips, K75S Chromed bars, revised taller 5th gear and a Siebenroc Oil resistant clutch. Theres more mods but lets just say the bike has slowly been worked thru and the list.........its extensive. I have a 1200Rt and a 1250Rt and I sometimes forget what I'm riding, and it gently reminds me with a few wobbles and kicks. I've forgotten what the stocks ones are like..........................mostly clagged out and truculent.
That's a respectable list of mods James - I ran a '78 R100RS for 6 years with points. Does the electronic ignition improve starting? @@jameshorsburgh5465
I have had mine since 1984. The top end noise can be virtually eliminated by the later shimmed rocker gear (one less adjustment to make when setting the tappets) and anti resonance rubbers.
Test ridden one think it was R75 about 1980 ish on a test day organized by local bike shop Freddy Friths I think , (I had Suzuki GS 750 at the time ) . Got back was looking round the bike , got asked what I thought , said I was looking for the hinge , he asked what hinge ? I said one between front and back wheel ,needless to say didn't try to sell me one
I always wondered if a machined spacer fitted over the rear axle in between the swing arm and the wheel would help to fix some of the axel flex on the rear...
Ive got my 300,000 79 r100 r45 As my retirement project, but with the state of the economy And government policies it doesn't look like im ever going to retire, the gear box isn't as reliable as the engine, and are expensive now, change the oil regularly,the drivebox too,the light flywheel clutches are no way as strong as the old heavy flywheel clutches but the release bearing is a massive improvement, you can fit the radial ball bearing in place of the radial roller with a mix of their components, by the way when I was younger and braver I could grind the cylinder covers!
BMW must have been listening,because the 1981-onwards models had sorted out the brake,clutch and gearbox issues. Handling was always a bit wayward...tank-slappers were not unknown on my 1981 R100RS but it wa stolen before I could get to the bottom of that issue. Twin-plug heads make them smoother and more tractable.
When I'm riding my bmw always plan the braking and shifting always be smooth as possible when doing both especially shifting get to the upper gears let the engine pull you up to the upper rpms be patient when shifting listen to the gear box
Next (and last) genaration of R100 (mine) has some changes. I would be really curious to test one of the older models (like yours) to see the difference.
does anyone know of a competent repairer who can sort out my 1981 R100 speedo. The odometer and trip meter have stopped working and it seems to be optomistic with the speed by about 5 km/h. This was the case when I bought this bike several weeks ago.
Wroooom, KLACK, wroooooomm, KLACK.... just a very little bit of pre-pressure on the gearshifter before pressing the clutch will give very smooth gear shifts on these ladys ;-) Turn down the opening of the horns to the ground and they will last forever. With the opening to the front too much rain gets inside and the steel membrane will rust and die
I liked your video. It is some time since you posted this video. I wanted to reply as I have not experienced any wobble or weave with my R90S from 1974. I wanted to know why and after having done some research, it comes mainly down to weight of the rider. Which is quite funny as I weigh around 110kgs. Heavy riders and 2up don't experience wobble & weave. As I have experienced myself. Anyway, apparently did Dunlop do testing of tyres a long time ago. And it explains it in quite some detail. Very interesting. th-cam.com/video/z3OQTU-kE2s/w-d-xo.html
I have had same model for 41 years. I have put up 150k on it. Early diode boards gave problems. Clutch will go after about 60k. If you use it for long journeys expect to replace steering head bearings every 60k. My gearbox packed in at 150k. Some parts unavailable unfortunately. Cast iron front disks help handling. Morgan carbtune gets the carbs spot on. I have a Honda SP2 and a ST1100 also. On back roads I am quicker on the BM. Fork brace at mudguard helps. Get an Odeesy gel battery as starter has to work hard. I have been all over Europe and UK on this bike. Of all my bikes in my collection this is one I will not sell. Liam Dublin
Hi Liam I am looking for a frame for a R100 or a non runner to suit my engine i have a real good engine the reason am asking you is am in Dublin also . Thanks Michael
What a lovely bike stunning colour.
I understand your comment "this is a 1970s bike and if it were perfect it wouldn't be as charming" I have a 1978 kawasaki Z1000A2 which isn't perfect but I love it.
I do have a 2005 BMW r1200rt which I adore but still has a clunky gearbox when engaging first gear but the handling is amazing.
I see your video is 2 years old hope your still riding the old beemer.
Recently acquired my first BMW after 50 years on mostly hooligan sport bikes. A beautifully restored R100RT (sans the fairing but got the bags), and it has a balanced engine, and I just fitted a Racetech front suspension : (emulators and new straight springs) and new Racetech rear shocks. Love the thing! Handles very well, beautiful melodious exhaust sound, and it loves to move along at 60 - 80 mph. Very happy with it.
Great video from someone who truly understands the /7
Great review. I had a 1979 R100RT in 1984 and my first of many BMWs. I have a 1979 RS which is close to your bike. In 1984 the brakes seemed fine by the measure of the day. These days the front brake is shockingly weak for a twin disk setup but I love the look of the ATE callipers. The cable to master cylinder adds to complexity and loss of braking effort. I’ve used a Venhill cable and made sure everything is as good as possible. A later master cylinder on the bars helps but riding within the bike’s limits is essential. I was lucky enough to be able to buy mercury vacuum gauges to get the carbs spot on. Utterly essential on any big twin. The later bikes had lighter flywheels so even more critical. These old bikes are well made tractors really and stand the test of time for real world practicality. They are very easy to work on and the few quirks are well covered by high quality web sites and TH-cam clips. Happy riding!
I have a 1981 R100CS and it is the bike I can always rely on. As mentioned in the video, carburetor synchronization is key to a smooth operation of the engine. It has to be done with great care. A quarter of a turn of the adjustment screws makes a noticeable difference (also true for other Twins with separate carbs). That way you can shift the harmonics to your liking.
I use wilbers shocks on the rear and they are very good. Another improvement is the use of glued in (loctite) undersized head races (as provided by emil schwarz). But of course the real game changer (and best bang for the buck) is a modern tyre. I used BT45 for over 10 years and they are excellent (also at full speed on the autobahn), but will on next occasion probabely test the conti classic attack, since that one is a radial tyre.
Concerning the brakes you could consider a swap to the later version without cable. Used parts should be available at reasonable prices but care has to be taken to identify the optimal hydraulic cylinder size (Rabenbauer in Bavaria is a good address to ask for a complete parts kit, but of course more expensive than Ebay).
Hi from Tasmania. The front tire you have fitted is more than likely the cause of your weave complaints. In the day BMWs were either fitted with Metzler or Continental RIBBED front tyres. These may not be available now but Hidenau make a very good replica of these old tyres. Any ribbed pattern tyre of the correct size is good. Any block pattern tyre of any size regardless of the make is asking for trouble. The bikes were designed around a ribbed front tyre. Also fitting a larger front tyres than recommended is possible but will make the steering a little heavier. Some owners fit heavier fork oil. This is a mistake that allows impact forces to not be absorbed by the front suspension and transmitted to the steering and frame and then a massive tank slipper may eventuate. The design of the bike does have limitations and a pre disposition to do this hence the steering dampers. Block pattern tyres make the tendency much worse. I catastrophically cart wheeled a r100/7 at 120kph and learned a lesson the hard way. The optional stiffer but slightly shorter fork springs are fine but avoid at all cost heavier fork oil or excess oil. Ribbed front tyres do follow longitudinal road irregularities at lower to mid speeds but as a trade off for good directional handling they simply are the only answer, all else being in good condition. On that point steering bearings should be in good condition and tensioned to a point that when on the center stand the forks will gradually fall away from the center position with a gentle prompt. Not binding but not loose. Cheers Stephen. R75/5, R100/7, R100S, R100RT, R75/5 (again), R100GS, K100RT, R75/6, R100RT x2.
I have an R75/6, which isn't on your list of models that shouldn't take a block pattern tire. Was that just an oversight?
My experience has been that any airhead bikes in otherwise original and good fettle with ribbed front tires and blockish rears will not weave. Block pattern fronts, worn or poorly adjusted steering bearings will cause problems. The R75/6 falls into that category. No new R series airhead bikes from /5 to monos weave when new and all are fitted with more or less ribbed fronts.
Good video. Enjoyed it. Have just acquired a R100CS so some useful pointers. Thanks
Love the older air-heads
I have a chunky aluminum top clamp as standard. Fitting a dual loop brace over the front mudguard made a huge and totally unexpected improvement though. Rear shocks less-so in my case (but done afterward). I've just made frame braces and they have also had a surprising effect on head shake and vibration, if not so obvious in handling.
Good information SIR!! I had a 1978 BMW R80 7!!!!! Had 72 thousand miles!!! Had the sport fairing with a Little taller shield and a Corbin two up seat!!! Always started and ran well!!! Had a bmw carry rack behind seat!!! I paid 2grand for the bike in 1995!!!! Eventually sold it and have had 7 or 8 HARLEY DAVIDSONS SINCE!!! NOW IM LOOKING TO BUY A BMW!!! 1978 R100S is what I'm looking for!!!! I want a vintage bike that I can ride 100 or 200 miles whenever I get the urge to do so!!!! Thanks for the Good VIDEO SIR!!!!!
Love this! A family member has informed me that he is down sizing and it looks like I’ll be taking his 1978, almost exactly like yours but a different fairing. I’m pretty thrilled! I’m sure I’ll be watching this video a few more times before mine/his shows up later this summer!
Great video. I loved my R80RT and regret to this day not keeping it. Best engine noise ever - almost as good as the Triumph 900 triple.
Well done overview of your bike. Iam on my 3 rd r90 over many years . My latest has a head gasket leak and since Iam no mechanic but it’s a problem finding someone who knows how to do it correctly let alone trusting someone new to do the work.
I've had a 1981 R65 since 1982. That year Leufmeister made a fairing for the R65 with a factory paint match (turquoise) Put stiffer springs in the forks and no dive on breaking and corners. Has a great look just over the windshield when cruising. Krousers too. Just bought a 1984 R100 all original with new Krousers. I've been wanting a 1000cc beamer for a while now and it is great. I have a whole other gear on top of 4K RPM at 65 MPH compared to the R65 that moves me out to 70/75 at 3/4K rpm in Fifth gear. It Is FAB! Thanks for your video...great info and well done...
I owned an R65 thirty years ago. Sold it cos I did not like the vibration in the handlebars at certain revs. The bigger R100 model i have owned did not have this vibration. Did like the bike though. Its little brother, R45, I have never seen one, ever.
@@keithad6485 I found that with each checkup eg. (1000/15000) the vibration at 15K at 3500 RPM was moved up to 4000 RPM. It does take a while to break in these bikes. My Idle was perfect in that you could actually hear the pistons hissing as they slide in and out.
Me too, after over thirty years of pretty much no bike riding, just bought a 1981 R00RT. My mate has just offered to sell me his R100/7 which has been sitting idle for over thirty years! in his mechanics work shop. Price is tempting.
BTW my RT has a noise similar to an exhaust leak where the exhaust pipe enters he cylinder head. Though it sounds like an exhaust escaping noise, it disappears as soon as I squeeze the clutch leaver. First thought was thrust bearing, but not sure. Any ideas?
Hat a lovely video, I left an old boxer at work a few years ago and am now trying to get hold of a colleague to see if it’s still in the basement …..
I have a '77 R75/7 with a 1,000cc Siebenrock power kit. As in your comments when I first bought it the front end felt light and weaved at speed. The simple fix was to remove the bullet fairing. If you read reviews of the R90S when it first came out it had a similar problem, the fairing lifting the front end instead of pushing it down. With the fairing removed it is very stable even at very high speed without the need for a steering damper or fork brace. The other point that you raised was the brakes. I have ATE dual discs and calipers on my R75/7 as with your R100. When I first bought the motorcycle it had a single after market caliper ( no idea what) which didn't work at all, Replacing this with a single original ATE caliper made a significant difference. Putting 2x ATE calipers on with the correct size under tank master cyliinder 914mm) made a massive difference and now it is possible to lock the front wheel. Likewise the clutch is light with easy gear changes. The secret to these motorcycles is having them properly set up. My motorcycle is completely original (other than electronic ignition and IKON rear shocks with new tyres as you have described) with a little bit of work it is now my everyday motorcylce and covers about 10,000 miles a year with both city and motorway riding. I feel no need to buy a newer motorcycle and it really is quite incredible how good this motorcyle is to ride nearly 50 years after it first left the showroom.
Good review. I improved the handling on my 74 R90S with rear Progressive gas shocks but I also heli-arc welded a fabricated .080” DOM tubing cage onto the bottom of the swing arm. A 6” bender worked perfectly. I must say I got the idea from the San Jose BMW catalog. My clutch grabbed (only when hot) from oil leakage. Not passed the main seal, but around the end of the crank where it fits into the flywheel. I sealed that end with a thin bead of RTV. I too think the Avon Roadrider MKII are by far the best handling tires. Cheers mate.😊
I have had three 100r also have a 79 triumph 750 which I love , but if I was going on a long trip , I would take the BMW , they are 70s machines , but they are great bikes,
Great video and commentary. I own this same bike and can verify everything you said. When I first got it, I thought "BMW designed the clunk into the gearbox and have never changed it". After owning several other modern BMWs, I had to accept it or just believe that it was me - I just couldn't shift. I don't have the problem with other bikes, however, and can only feel verified when someone else agrees. And brakes? I thought I was going in the ditch the first time I had it on the street. You just have to adjust your braking distance. But, overall, I'm with you - it was a great bike for its time and is still wonderful today. Thanks for the honest review.
Holding good speed on an old airhead is an art form, but doable. I had some sports bikers pull over to let me pass on my local twists the other week whilst out on my 79rt........didnt seem happy with being unable to loose 42 yr old dinosaur.
Running metzeler tyres too, found them a vast improvement on the bridgestones, be interested to see what the Michelins are like.
Nice bike, great video. I've been riding airheads for 20 years. You should be able to get smooth gear changes with the clutch set up correctly and preloading the lever. If not, then assume there's something wrong in there. As for the handling, i've ridden boxers of similar spec and not had that problem. Getting all of the variables correct is the key. But can be quite a lot of work to do. Wedgetail ignition is a good upgrade.
I am using a billet aluminum triple clamp and Conti-Go tires with YSS-Z shocks. The YSS shocks have allot of adjustability that includes overall length. The triple clamp allows me to move the forks up and down. With this setup I can alter rake and trail. The bike handles like a dream. Even if I didn't change the rake and trail, the solid triple clamp makes a huge difference. In my opinion, the first thing to improve handling is the triple clamp. Mine is from Toastertan.
I have had and still have a lot of BMW motorcycles, but one my favorite boxer was a 1978 R100/7. It had double disc out front and drum rear. It also had the factory mags which I ptefer over spoke wheels. I had the euro bars with K100 mirrors and the sport front springs with a real good fork brace (forgot the brand) and the stock Boge sport springs and shocks. I also had the dual horns and a Mayer "Daylong Saddle). I rode that bike over 100,000 miles before I sold it. Adjustment of the swingarm bearing and proper greasing is essential for good road manners. In my view this was the pinnacle of the BMW Air Heads.
The master cylinder modification is an absolute must on BMWs. I won’t run one for many years with the laser handlebar mounted master cylinder. I also had the twin leading to drum which I adored, but it would be no good for a bike with more power. Mine was only 600 I’m afraid to say, I sold a model 600 190 5000 miles on the clock on eBay and a chat from Poland actually came over and pick it up. I’m still regretting ever selling that bike. PS I do like k75 preferably with ABS but I would still have another 600 series 6 tomorrow. If one turned up I always found with tires the original not the modern day road Runner tires were better. The modern day ones I’ve never been happy with them. Have fun. Enjoy the program Michael
Lovely example of a bike you have there. Just looking at your front fork travel it would seem to be quite excessive for a regular country road. I could imagine a slightly higher spring rate would provide a significant improvement in control and feel at the front end without ruining comfort or overwhelming the damping. A low cost investment too.
the damper is for slow speed wobble. Remove your windshield, and get a more robust triple T upper plate. Worked for me R90/6 owner.
Yes, the fairing is the problem. Road tests on the R90S report a similar problem, When I first bought my R75/7 it had a similar problem with feeling very light at the front at speed with the fairing actually lifting the front end, removing the fairing fixed the problem.
I bought an iceberg blue metallic '79 R100RS in Munich, rode it to England, Scotland, and Wales, shipped it to the US and rode it 65k miles in the US before selling it in Oregon in '92. Your bike is similar in so many ways. It also had a minor speed wobble decelerating from 60 mph. I sold it since the US was moving off leaded gas, as well as other reasons. I wish I'd kept it. :(
Great review and clearly narrative, I own an old Yamaha fazer600 98 , think the carbs need balancing on that , haven’t got a clue how you do it , cheers shane uk 🇬🇧
Thank you, great info! I’m looking for an R80 or R75 ~1980 to buy, and I’m sure most of this applies :)
Nice video I have a 79RT fitted with a 1992 engine it pulls well and I am in total agreement with your opinion of the dual disc brakes and planning to upgrade to the handlebar mounted master cylinder and possibly better calipers
Good summary of the "Gummi-ku" (German for "rubber cow") riding characteristics of these late '70's BMW twins. The bikes handling can be tightened right up though - replacing the oh so soft long travel OEM fork springs, fitting modern rear shocks, replacing the OEM steering head bearings and ensuring proper torque settings on the steering head bearings themselves, fitting a fork brace, fitting a stiffer top triple tree bracket (so the forks don't "walk" under hard cornering/braking), proper fitment of swingarm bushes, and modern tires. You don't have to put up with the unhinged feeling on the bike when pushing it - one more thing, proper riding technique - these bikes will NOT reward modern "point and shoot" riding styles - they are best ridden with smooth, deliberate inputs from the rider - smooth throttle, smooth coordination of clutch/throttle for upshift/downshifts, applying a touch of rear brake for trail braking into turns (to settle the rear suspension) - master these approaches and they are surprisingly supple, fast and capable motorcycles - and far better machines than those from competitor manufacturers of the day.
Well said. I've enjoyed these old airheads for over 30 years.
You know these machines well. Very insightful. 1982 RS here with 38 Dells, smaller brake masters, revised fork damping, IKON shocks, Billet aluminium triple clamp, Telefix fork brace, external Oil filter Euromotoelectrics full ignition, OEM heated grips, K75S Chromed bars, revised taller 5th gear and a Siebenroc Oil resistant clutch. Theres more mods but lets just say the bike has slowly been worked thru and the list.........its extensive. I have a 1200Rt and a 1250Rt and I sometimes forget what I'm riding, and it gently reminds me with a few wobbles and kicks. I've forgotten what the stocks ones are like..........................mostly clagged out and truculent.
That's a respectable list of mods James - I ran a '78 R100RS for 6 years with points. Does the electronic ignition improve starting? @@jameshorsburgh5465
I have had mine since 1984. The top end noise can be virtually eliminated by the later shimmed rocker gear (one less adjustment to make when setting the tappets) and anti resonance rubbers.
not true. I have ridden Airheads since 1981, and currently ride a 95 R100RT. Same top end noise as the earlier ones.
Can you show how to do that would be a great help.
Very well said! Beautiful bike.
The shot from the rear for the exhaust sound...is that oild from the final drive leaking into the tyre? If so be careful on those bends 😅
amazin.... i hope next week a similar model will be mine :) wonderfull
I recently bought a 1985 r80 rt and have found it to be a very nice ride. It does not have the under tank brake reservoir.
Test ridden one think it was R75 about 1980 ish on a test day organized by local bike shop Freddy Friths I think , (I had Suzuki GS 750 at the time ) . Got back was looking round the bike , got asked what I thought , said I was looking for the hinge , he asked what hinge ? I said one between front and back wheel ,needless to say didn't try to sell me one
Nice review, thanks.
I always wondered if a machined spacer fitted over the rear axle in between the swing arm and the wheel would help to fix some of the axel flex on the rear...
Ive got my 300,000 79 r100 r45
As my retirement project, but with the state of the economy
And government policies it doesn't look like im ever going to retire, the gear box isn't as reliable as the engine, and are expensive now, change the oil regularly,the drivebox too,the light flywheel clutches are no way as strong as the old heavy flywheel clutches but the release bearing is a massive improvement, you can fit the radial ball bearing in place of the radial roller with a mix of their components, by the way when I was younger and braver I could grind the cylinder covers!
BMW must have been listening,because the 1981-onwards models had sorted out the brake,clutch and gearbox issues.
Handling was always a bit wayward...tank-slappers were not unknown on my 1981 R100RS but it wa stolen before I could get to the bottom of that issue.
Twin-plug heads make them smoother and more tractable.
Well done.
When I'm riding my bmw always plan the braking and shifting always be smooth as possible when doing both especially shifting get to the upper gears let the engine pull you up to the upper rpms be patient when shifting listen to the gear box
Fantastic commentary....i could'nt fault it......
Race Tech valves in the forks will improve the front end immensely.
12.58...What is the 'Stay open throttle screw'...?...I have a R100GS with HPN tank...
Next (and last) genaration of R100 (mine) has some changes. I would be really curious to test one of the older models (like yours) to see the difference.
If both are in new condition then they handle a little better but not much. Stephen.
Mine is in pretty good condition :)
is that gear oil on your rear wheel/tyre at 4.30 mins ? no wonder she wobbles
does anyone know of a competent repairer who can sort out my 1981 R100 speedo. The odometer and trip meter have stopped working and it seems to be optomistic with the speed by about 5 km/h. This was the case when I bought this bike several weeks ago.
Wroooom, KLACK, wroooooomm, KLACK.... just a very little bit of pre-pressure on the gearshifter before pressing the clutch will give very smooth gear shifts on these ladys ;-)
Turn down the opening of the horns to the ground and they will last forever. With the opening to the front too much rain gets inside and the steel membrane will rust and die
A thoroughly enjoyable video thank you.
Well said!
it is in fact great bike
81 R100RS with the front brake m/cylinder on the handlebars. Works good, plenty of feel. Just sayin .
I liked your video. It is some time since you posted this video. I wanted to reply as I have not experienced any wobble or weave with my R90S from 1974. I wanted to know why and after having done some research, it comes mainly down to weight of the rider. Which is quite funny as I weigh around 110kgs. Heavy riders and 2up don't experience wobble & weave. As I have experienced myself. Anyway, apparently did Dunlop do testing of tyres a long time ago. And it explains it in quite some detail. Very interesting. th-cam.com/video/z3OQTU-kE2s/w-d-xo.html
never seen front brake lines done that way i know bmw do things damn right odd but even they woudnt do THAT!
Runs best with ear plugs
You need the later monoshock, it's a better bike all round
Nope.......smaller exhaust valve and less power. No-one wants a monoshock.
@@jameshorsburgh5465 if you want maximum power, get a Japanese.
美しいカラー(*´∀｀)