Hey, I enjoy your videos. Thanks for making them. On the 12 v issue. If you had to... you could get a cigarette lighter socket from and autoparts store, open up the case (4mm hex wrench) connect directly to the battery and have the wire come out the back of the Yeti 400 case. Then you would bypass that switch and the auto shutdown issue.
+Larry Greenup I just made a video on that subject. I even added a battery protection circuit and attempted to measure the inrush current from the Engel compressor using my oscilloscope and multimeter. Check it out: th-cam.com/video/O_DnUwPpbKQ/w-d-xo.html
Much better solution, and what I did with my Yeti 400 and Dometic CFX50W - I bought a cable from PowerWerx.com. It is an Anderson port-to-cig lighter adapter cable. It is fused at 15 amps, and 16awg wire size. It was necessary for me, as the Dometic's cig lighter plug has a very fat tip, and the raised shoulders in the Yeti's socket won't allow it to make contact. This solution bypasses all the electronics in the Yeti, and gives you a direct battery connection.
I have the Yeti 400 as well. I have been powering the battery with a 100W solar panel but I noticed the battery level on the Yeti keeps dropping when I am not running any appliances on it. I wonder if yours does that?
createthis the part I'm stumped upon is I did have a low to 9 watt input power from the solar panel but my battery kept draining , just like earlier today where I had it recharged by the solar panel and the battery level kept dropping from 60% to 20% and as I'm writing it's at 0. I have it recharged inside to bring the charge back to full. It I'm recharging and and no output power is being used, I would suspect the battery level would go up. This is my first time using solar panels, I have silly questions.
+Quinnie Bui yeah, that doesn't sound right at all. I'd check the voltage of the battery with a multimeter via the Anderson connectors on the side. If the voltage is changing along with those percentage readings you may have a bad battery. They don't last forever.
I know you've already found a work around and no longer even using your goal zero for this purpose but just in case others are interested, I have a small Domatic 12v compressor fridge/freezer also, it's only a 11 liters unit so it's REALLY small in comparison. And when i plug mines in, the 12v automatically stops working like yours did. If i unplug it and plug in something else it will not work, but if i turn off and on the switch it will work again... that is until i try to plug in the dometic again and then nothing... very annoying. I will probably be using the anderson ports as well.
Much better solution, and what I did with my Yeti 400 and Dometic CFX50W - I bought a cable from PowerWerx.com. It is an Anderson port-to-cig lighter adapter cable. It is fused at 15 amps, and 16awg wire size. It was necessary for me, as the Dometic's cig lighter plug has a very fat tip, and the raised shoulders in the Yeti's socket won't allow it to make contact. This solution bypasses all the electronics in the Yeti, and gives you a direct battery connection. powerwerx.com/automotive-cigarette-lighter-socket-fused-powerpole-connector
Would this be a timing issues? If it powers off after 24 hours due to the reasons you found in this and your other video, why would it not trip it on the first power up straight away? I go away for weekend events and having this shut off every 12 hours is a bit concerning. Thanks for your video! It's insightful!
I know it's been a while since you had this combo and you found the fix, but is there a reason why I couldn't just use the 110 outlet on the Yeti 400 for the Engel?
+Lisantica It's quite a bit less efficient. The inverter uses unnecessary power converting from 12v dc up to 110v ac. You'll have shorter run times on battery.
Ahhhh, I see what you mean. I'm new to this, but at least I can do the 110v ac in a pinch...but I will look into getting this set up to go with 12V through the Yeti or through a secondary battery situation in my van. Thank you for the quick reply.
+ray ash this was a long time ago, but the fix for this was to use the Anderson connectors on the side of the Yeti coupled with a low voltage disconnect (APO3). There's another video that details the solution. I ended up not using the Yeti 400 long term as I found myself needing more than 200Wh on a regular basis.
BTW, Thanks for doing this, I know why neither Goal Zero I have works correctly with the DC plugs. Called GZ over a year ago explaining this same problem and they had no idea.
Yep, and the crappy adapter they sent me plugs into the 6mm port, looks and feels extremely cheap, and is wired with 18awg. The cable on it is no bigger than a USB cable. I bought an Anderson powerpole to cig lighter plug adapter cable from PowerWerx. Much better solution. 16awg cable, fused at 15 amps, and excellent quality. Bypasses all the electronics on the Yeti for much more reliable operation.
Get a small button magnet to extent and make smaller the fridge adapter, also did you contact goal zero? What did they say?
the issue is the goal zero doesnt like the bump start that compressors have. The fix is to use an anerson and power straight from the battery
Can you tell me about your solar panels and the input 8mm. Can you fit any other solar panels with other input?
Hey, I enjoy your videos. Thanks for making them. On the 12 v issue. If you had to... you could get a cigarette lighter socket from and autoparts store, open up the case (4mm hex wrench) connect directly to the battery and have the wire come out the back of the Yeti 400 case. Then you would bypass that switch and the auto shutdown issue.
+Larry Greenup I just made a video on that subject. I even added a battery protection circuit and attempted to measure the inrush current from the Engel compressor using my oscilloscope and multimeter. Check it out: th-cam.com/video/O_DnUwPpbKQ/w-d-xo.html
Much better solution, and what I did with my Yeti 400 and Dometic CFX50W - I bought a cable from PowerWerx.com. It is an Anderson port-to-cig lighter adapter cable. It is fused at 15 amps, and 16awg wire size. It was necessary for me, as the Dometic's cig lighter plug has a very fat tip, and the raised shoulders in the Yeti's socket won't allow it to make contact. This solution bypasses all the electronics in the Yeti, and gives you a direct battery connection.
You can use 110V input into the fridge until you get resolution from Goal Zero.
That happens on the Yeti Power Stations because it doesn't have a "Regulated DC Output" like other brands like the Jackery, Eco Flow, and Bluetti.
How about not using the duel socket?
I tried it with and without the dual socket. Same result.
I have the Yeti 400 as well. I have been powering the battery with a 100W solar panel but I noticed the battery level on the Yeti keeps dropping when I am not running any appliances on it. I wonder if yours does that?
+Quinnie Bui only if there is no solar input. AGM doesn't hold a charge for long.
createthis the part I'm stumped upon is I did have a low to 9 watt input power from the solar panel but my battery kept draining , just like earlier today where I had it recharged by the solar panel and the battery level kept dropping from 60% to 20% and as I'm writing it's at 0. I have it recharged inside to bring the charge back to full. It I'm recharging and and no output power is being used, I would suspect the battery level would go up. This is my first time using solar panels, I have silly questions.
+Quinnie Bui yeah, that doesn't sound right at all. I'd check the voltage of the battery with a multimeter via the Anderson connectors on the side. If the voltage is changing along with those percentage readings you may have a bad battery. They don't last forever.
oh jeeze. I just bought them this year. Will call GZ in the morning.
Did you guys connect the solar panel directly to yeti?
I know you've already found a work around and no longer even using your goal zero for this purpose but just in case others are interested, I have a small Domatic 12v compressor fridge/freezer also, it's only a 11 liters unit so it's REALLY small in comparison. And when i plug mines in, the 12v automatically stops working like yours did. If i unplug it and plug in something else it will not work, but if i turn off and on the switch it will work again... that is until i try to plug in the dometic again and then nothing... very annoying. I will probably be using the anderson ports as well.
Much better solution, and what I did with my Yeti 400 and Dometic CFX50W - I bought a cable from PowerWerx.com. It is an Anderson port-to-cig lighter adapter cable. It is fused at 15 amps, and 16awg wire size. It was necessary for me, as the Dometic's cig lighter plug has a very fat tip, and the raised shoulders in the Yeti's socket won't allow it to make contact. This solution bypasses all the electronics in the Yeti, and gives you a direct battery connection.
powerwerx.com/automotive-cigarette-lighter-socket-fused-powerpole-connector
Would this be a timing issues? If it powers off after 24 hours due to the reasons you found in this and your other video, why would it not trip it on the first power up straight away? I go away for weekend events and having this shut off every 12 hours is a bit concerning. Thanks for your video! It's insightful!
+Bobby Flaspohler That's a good question. Might have something to do with amp draw at lower voltages. Not sure.
Man i have that same exact problem with my Goal Zero Yeti 400 with the DC plug
I know it's been a while since you had this combo and you found the fix, but is there a reason why I couldn't just use the 110 outlet on the Yeti 400 for the Engel?
+Lisantica It's quite a bit less efficient. The inverter uses unnecessary power converting from 12v dc up to 110v ac. You'll have shorter run times on battery.
Ahhhh, I see what you mean. I'm new to this, but at least I can do the 110v ac in a pinch...but I will look into getting this set up to go with 12V through the Yeti or through a secondary battery situation in my van.
Thank you for the quick reply.
your double adapter will not be helping you,, the wires inside them are very tiny, 1/4 size of the fridge wire, voltage drop.
+ray ash this was a long time ago, but the fix for this was to use the Anderson connectors on the side of the Yeti coupled with a low voltage disconnect (APO3). There's another video that details the solution. I ended up not using the Yeti 400 long term as I found myself needing more than 200Wh on a regular basis.
Doesn't the freezer have a voltage shut off like the ARB's? It seems that would eliminate that additional box you added in your other video.
+GODISMYJUDGE it probably does, but I also know it's probably not the voltage I want it to shut off at.
BTW, Thanks for doing this, I know why neither Goal Zero I have works correctly with the DC plugs. Called GZ over a year ago explaining this same problem and they had no idea.
My Dometic says to never use a 12V splitter.
Good advice. The Anderson strip I use is a good choice, but the splitter in the thumbnail isn’t built well.
Put another 12v DC plug on the frig
Call gold zero tell them the problem with the lighter adapter from the refrigerator they will send you an adapter for free
Yep, and the crappy adapter they sent me plugs into the 6mm port, looks and feels extremely cheap, and is wired with 18awg. The cable on it is no bigger than a USB cable. I bought an Anderson powerpole to cig lighter plug adapter cable from PowerWerx. Much better solution. 16awg cable, fused at 15 amps, and excellent quality. Bypasses all the electronics on the Yeti for much more reliable operation.