as software developer willing to work off the grid a couple of days a week i was waiting for this kind of review related to namely among others an all day long laptop use and for a while before opting for a yeti 400 purchase. also cool you replied all comments very useful pieces of info there. thanks a lot. good job
IIRC, many of the controllers adjust the charging amount depending on how much charge remains in the battery, i.e., the controller will pass more charging current to a battery charged at 50% than it would to a battery charged at 90%.
The weird thing about this box is the Anderson connectors. The can charge up to 230 watts I'm told, and you can chain other batteries in parallel with the lead acid versions. So, in theory, you could get a charge regulator with wind and solar, plug that into the Anderson connectors on one side, and plug in a series of cheap 33 ah batteries on the otherside, resulting in a small system that could probably power an RV fridge and some other stuff. But by the time you are there, you are basically making your own system. Still this is a good tip. It's a shame there isn't something like the yeti 400, with a better charge controller, lithium based battery, that can handle solar, water and wind up to a higher wattage, with say, 400-500 watts AC out. Because you don't really need a big battery, what you need is a) the ability to draw b) the ability to use most of the charge c) the ability to harvest maximum energy. You can get some cheapish wind turbines, and some cheapish panels. You can build a reasonably cheap system yourself but it requires battery boxes, wire safety, spark plugs, messes of wires, mounting shit. It'd be LOVELY to just have a system of folding stand up panels, a single battery box without too much cost, and a little portable verticle wind turbine or two for those stormy days.
DIY is your best option here. Hopefully you don't burn the house down wiring it. My first DIY generator had a few bad crimps and I'm lucky it didn't burn anything down.
The charge controller only accepts (should) 120W. Look on the specs on your Yeti. I've got two of them running full time. I run computers, tablets and phones, modem, router, and quite a few light a life 350s on a daily basis. I have 120W of panels running into one and 100W running the other. Great review thanks for sharing.
Brian Soloman That's marketing speak for you. The reality is that it accepts anything under 29 volts. This was what I learned when I called Goal Zero. They said it didn't really have an amperage limit, though I don't believe that. In practice, with two 100W panels, that sort of equals 120 watts, but it can go higher if conditions are right.
+Brian Soloman Goal Zero told me that all of the Yeti's have a limit on how many watts it will accept, but the charge controller will not let more wattage in than it can handle. I have used a Boulder 30 AND a Renogy 100 watt into my Yeti 150, and it controlled the wattage just fine. Voltage, however, is another animal. There is a really nice iPhone app that helps you align panels, and is worth looking into. It is called Solar Tracker. The alignment makes all the difference in the input wattage.
Jess, thanks for the video. I just purchased (12/1/15) a Yeti 1250 and am awaiting shipment. The base panels are two 30-watters. Their add-on Boulder-90 is $400!! These two panels that you reviewed would be the way to go for any add-ons. Of course, this is dependent upon cable hook up compatibility.
+GSMSfromFV I've got a link to the MC4 to 8mm Goal Zero Y cable above in the description. You have to buy it direct from Goal Zero. Amazon doesn't carry it. Should be what you need to connect one panel. If you're going with two, like me, check out the Parallel MC4 Branch Connectors, also above in the description. The actual wiring is easy. I've got a video for attaching MC4 connectors: th-cam.com/video/0tWaQlRrxxc/w-d-xo.html Enjoy!
+createthis __ Thanks, Jess. I live here in So. Cal., and my main concern is extended power outages from an earthquake that would last 3 days or longer. I would need to run my mini-refrig, desktop computer, and some LED lights for that period of time without draining my battery(s) to zero. What is your estimate of the wattage I'd need? 400? The panels would be installed on my patio cover with the cable running thru the attic in a semi-permanent setup.
+GSMSfromFV Pretty hard to answer that without knowing how much power your mini fridge, desktop computer, and LED lights pull on an hourly basis. Also, keep in mind that you can only drain the 1250 or 400 25-50% if you want the battery to last. These are AGM batteries, so you can take a look at Depth of Discharge (DOD) vs Cycle Life charts like this one: www.civicsolar.com/forum/12092/which-one-has-higher-life-cycle-gel-or-agm-batteries There's a pretty good chance even the 1250 will be undersized if you expect to go 3 days on battery alone, but it'll probably work fine for a 12v fridge, a laptop, and 50 watts of lighting if you only plan to use it for a few hours in the evenings and you plan to get a full charge each day from sunlight. There is a ton of math you can/should do to figure all of this out, but I think the Yeti 400 and the Yeti 1250 are excellent tools if you'd prefer to just dive in and get your hands dirty and find out what the hardware is capable of doing. Book knowledge is no substitute for experience. You'll learn a lot just using the system. I know I did.
+createthis __ Thanks, Jess. Mini-refrig. is 100 watts, maybe five LED lights at 15 watts each, the Gateway desktop is maybe 500 watts. I guess I have my answer. 400 watts wouldn't be enough. Fortunately, my patio cover would easily fit six of these panels.
+GSMSfromFV Probably cheaper to buy a laptop than six panels. My macbook pro draws about 80 watts at full load, 20 - 45 watts under normal circumstances. Also, I don't think the 1250 is rated for 600 watts of solar input. The manual says 240 watts spread out over the 2 8mm inputs. If you REALLY want 600 watts of solar input, you should probably buy a big expensive MPPT controller, like a midnight classic, a midnight kid, an outback, or a Victron Blue series. I plan to go down this road myself someday, just for fun. You have to pay a lot of attention to voltage and wire sizing when you get above the 200w level. Safety issues are a real concern and you can electrocute yourself and/or burn the house down if you're not careful. Also, anytime you mount a panel to something, you should think about building codes. Probably no one cares for a small panel, but once you get close to the kw range people might start caring. 100 watts isn't too bad for a fridge, but if you want to downsize that you can get something like my 12V Engel MR40 which draws about 35 watts ( from memory, don't quote me on that; skip around in this video for details: th-cam.com/video/O_DnUwPpbKQ/w-d-xo.html ). I do think the 1250 is always a better choice as long as you can afford it and don't need it to be hand portable. I think it weighs 100 lbs. Has to be wheeled around if you need to move it.
I use flexible panels with a tracker. I originally purchased 2 aluminum stands about $40 each I ended up just getting 4 ft metal lengths they have holes every 1.5" right angle and it makes it pretty modular I can separate the panels , 2 and 2 with yeti you don't use a controller because one is built in. There are times I could charge my battery bank with an MPPT and 1 100 watt panel per yeti . I never charged the yeti with more than 1 100 watt panel I don't think that's a good idea according to the tech specs from goal zero. I have to say maybe it's the movement of air on the under layer but I have found the flexibles at least 10% more efficient than a glass 100 watt panel. THEY ALWAYS put out more amps than the framed glass panel I think it's air flow
Unless your living at the equator and it's high noon you are not charging your panels effectively. The panels should be tilted up to the angle of the sun. You can find the sun angle at any given, time for your area online. It the sun is at forty degrees on the horizon, the solar panel should tilted at 40 degrees. This will give full output from the panel.
Kiet, your Google Plus settings don't allow me to reply directly. If you're interested in buying one of the 100W panels, click the Show More link under the description. I've got a lot of amazon affiliate links there for you to click.
I like to know what would happen if it when the battery runs down and you have the converter on and what happens when the battery recharges is a converter going to be on or you have to push the button. I'm hoping that the converter will automatically come back on. In this I hope that the programmer has kept a safety-net voltage.
If you run the battery in the yeti 400 all the way down you’ve sized your system incorrectly. You shouldn’t ever draw more than a certain percent from an AGM battery, and ideally no more than 20% for max longevity.
@@createthisdotcom well of course I want to stay in that percentage of usage. I just want to know if it's a set it and forget it type of thing and it will turn itself back on when it supposed to be smart enough to do so or is it. Thank you for replying back. I appreciate it.
@@hgboone3 what I do is use a low voltage disconnect off the black and red anderson connectors. This keeps the battery voltage from dropping too low and allows it to turn back on automatically when the sun comes out. It's kind of a long boring video, but I documented how to do this here: th-cam.com/video/O_DnUwPpbKQ/w-d-xo.html
Based on the tech spec the GZ states it’s 120w via blue port. How did you manage to push more in? I know on Sherpa units the logic boards get fussy and refuse to take more wattage via blue port as I’ve tried a 60w into a Sherpa 50
hi!!! great video! i love it! before i buy the yeti 400 i have some questions to an expert like you: 1.) Whats the exact incoming amperage of your configuration with these two 100w panels? 2.) Whats the biggest possible configuration (max. ampere? and max. watt? in a parallel system) for using the goal zero pwm sola charge controller without taking any risks? Can you tell us the technical specifications? 3.) Did you know who is manufacturer oft the wpm controller and the display? is it possible to buy these components separately? thanks!
+ray bon my yeti 400 will run a small 12v D.C. Fridge all night, but not much longer. Needs a charge during the day to keep going, so cloudy days are bad.
+ray bon for a tv, take the wattage of the tv and divide 200 by the wattage of the tv. That's your run time in hours before you need a charge with the Yeti 400.
That's awesome info. I heard somewhere else there's a fridge called a dometic. Suppose to use less electricity. Also another thing. You can put a piece, of clear plastic behind the door. So when you open the door the plastic, covers the food like a second door then cut a slip in the middle of the plastic. By doing this. The cold air dosent escaped. And you can grab your food through the opening in the slit. This prevents maybe the need for the motor to kick on. Problem is small fridge once the door opens the cold air escapes.
Same place I read that. I also read that? Due to the fact, the small fridge let's out so much cold air, and its walls are thinner. The freezer stand up freezer is more efficient. Cause it does let out so much cold air, and then it's walls are thicker. Vs. A small fridge.
Nice work and info. If I plan to fully drain that battery every night, Do you think two of those marine panels in parallel can completely recharge the battery during the long and strong Florida day? Also, those glass panels need to have separation from the floor? There is a single 175W glass panel on Amazon for under $200, I wonder if that could fully recharge the Yeti with just that?
You only want to discharge an AGM battery 50% max. The more you discharge it, the shorter the cycle life. Two 100 watt panels should be able to recharge 200 watts in a day, yes, unless it’s super cloudy.
+R Finnie Your Google Plus settings keep me from replying directly. However, in regard to your question about running an AC/DC fridge from solar using the Yeti 400, yes, it can be done. See this video: th-cam.com/video/O_DnUwPpbKQ/w-d-xo.html I recommend having another deep cycle battery on one of the chaining ports though, just for some additional capacity.
very good info on your video. I read the previous comments about daisy chaining an additional battery where you mentioned as long as its the same capacity...however, a rep from goal zero told me its ok if it is a larger capacity (ex. 100ah) AS LONG as the batteries are both charged to the same level at connection...essentially, both full charged first. could you verify this? for what its worth, my overall goal is to use my yeti 400 in my van which has a main battery and a aux battery. the aux battery only charges when the van is in motion. when parked my main battery is disconnected from the aux battery and all my lights, outlets in the van body run off my aux battery. My intended goal would be to connect the yeti to the aux battery and have both charge via solar while PARKED. then when moving I would like my can to charge both the aux battery and the yeti...thoughts? thanks very much in advance. I've watch several of your videos and I respect and value your input over some random internet troll.
+se pudo personally, I'd leave the engine battery disconnected while parked, that way you can always start the engine in case you accidentally drain the battery. If you're worried about draining it from staying in one place for a long time I have a video about using folding 60w panels on the dash to charge via the cigarette lighter while parked. You could adapt this concept and just have a single panel dedicated to charging the engine starter battery at all times.
+se pudo here's a link to the folding panel dash charger solution. I use this to this day on two vehicles. Works great. th-cam.com/video/CxXZBKfLUEM/w-d-xo.html
I'm trying this next. I saw a study that explained this. You are right. I'm gonna add a larger battery next to my system. Excited that I can add a larger battery when I get my RV unit set up. Right now I'm chaining the same capacity battery for emergency conditions.
So I am going to get this same exact set up thru your links on the video. But it looks like there is an adapter connected to the GZ 8mm adapter? I don't see anything listed in your links but it looks like an adapter that connects to the GZ 8mm that connects to the the Branch Connecter?
+Zachary Anaya it's probably just a short run of cable I made that I use to swap mc4 genders when necessary. Some of my panels came with mismatched genders for positive and negative.
Do you think with this set up you could power a small AC/DC rv fridge (under 2 cubic feet). I know that with the bigger goal zero 1250 that would likely be possible but it is so big and so heavy and not easy to move around. I just want to run a small fridge for about 3 - 6 days of camping where there are no hook ups. I've always used a 3 way fridge and ran it off propane when there are no hookups. The trailer we are interested in purchasing only has this 2 way fridge available. Thought solar could be a possible answer but know little about solar or fridges and am not that familiar with the terminology involved so I am having trouble figuring it out.
I ran my Indel-B 50l fridge for about 28 hours (including the initial cool-down from ambient temp, with a 12 pack of room temperature cans and a few bottles of water) with intermittent / short spurts of AC charging (when the vehicle was running and my onboard inverter had power). I had 27% left on a Goal Zero Yeti 400 Lithium after that. If you get a full fridge down to your operating temperature and then hook a Goal Zero up, it'll last a lot longer - I doubt a 400 will last you 3-6 days, but the 1000 lithium that they sell via Costco may do the trick for you. I am probably going to run a 60w solar panel to help ease the load on the Goal Zero (and recharge it when my fridge's compressor is not on).
Thank you for your very informative video. Sorry if question was already asked but what are the female to female and male to male MC4 cables for? Is it to reverse the solar panels polarity before connecting to the GZ MC4 to 8mm adaptor cable? Why is this needed?
+7siamesecat correct. One or more of my panels and/or adapters has the polarity of the mc4 connectors reversed. This was a simple solution. I could have also fixed the cables that were incorrect, but I couldn't easily determine which polarity was correct at the time.
Would someone please help me, new to solar power! I purchased a goal zero yeti 400, I then purchased a 12v 120w solar panel and the Anderson to 8mm goal zero cable. When I plug it in to charge my goal zero the light flicks on a few times then goes off? Also I purchased the cigarette lighter to 8mm adapter to charge my yeti and when the van is running it says the Input is 1/2watts or it says low input, is this correct? Thanks jordan
Great video! I wanted to run just one of these 100w panels with my other goal zero 20w panels & a goal zero 15w panel. Total of 155 watt. Could I simply just purchase the 100w panel along with the MC4 to 8mm Goal Zero Y cable and chain this directly to my other goal zero panels? In other words: Yeti 400 -->20w -->20w -->15w -->MC4 to 8mm Goal Zero Y cable -->100w
Parallel I believe. Wouldn't the 8mm Goal Zero Y cable plugged directly into the 100w then into other goal zero panels make it parallel. (still trying to figure that all out)
+The Pipe Parlor You might need these parallel branch connectors if you're doing parallel: amzn.to/1lVUrSw I'm not sure. I don't think those goal zero panels use MC4 connectors, so your best bet might be to cut off whatever connectors they ship with and add your own MC4 or Anderson Powerpole connectors, depending on the wire size. If you can find the goal zero connectors online, you might be able to make a parallel connector from that too. The Yeti 400 has a 29 volt input limit, so be sure not to exceed that, which you won't if you're doing parallel. I don't know what the amperage limit is on the Yeti 400. I know it has one, but when I called the lady who answered didn't know what it was. I recommend calling Goal Zero and figuring that out. Insist on talking to an engineer if they can't answer your question directly. Let me know what they say too. I'm curious. Read this article about mixing solar panels: solarpanelsvenue.com/mixing-solar-panels/ If the panel voltage is the same, the amps will just add up in parallel. However, if the voltage is different, you'll be losing a bit of power. It might still be worth it for you if you already have the panels though. I've been wanting to do a video on panel mixing for a while. I might do it soon now that you brought it up and I have a bunch of different panels laying around. Good luck!
+createthis Here's an image of the parallel Anderson Powerpole adapter I made, next to the parallel MC4 connector from this video: i.imgur.com/12BOzUK.jpg I suspect you could do something similar with goal zero connectors.
+7siamesecat I thought I covered this extensively in the video? Charge controllers care about amps and volts, not watts. The watt rating is marketing bs.
I'm trying to understand the parallel set up you have. I see that you have a mc4 y that goes from the battery to the T connectors, then to the panels. Is there a cord that is running in between the Y and the T? Thanks. Are you willing to write out the cables in order from the yeti to the panel?
Yes, there are cables between the Y and the parallel adapters. I made them myself. I show how to do that here: th-cam.com/video/0tWaQlRrxxc/w-d-xo.html Regarding the second sentence... are you asking for a diagram?
How much current does the 100watt eco glass panel send to the 400? I ordered an eco panel, a goal 400 and all the cables. Was curious on how much time would it take to charge the 400 with the eco panel. Thanks
Because it's more work for me. But here, let me look it up for you. I assume this is the panel you're referring to (ECO-WORTHY): amzn.to/2fxemEg If you scroll down the page to the description section, they list this: Short circuit current (Isc): 6.88A So at most, with no other panels in parallel, you can expect 6.88 amps from this panel. I just saw your other part of the question now. The amount of time it takes to charge 200 watt hours (wh) from a 100 watt panel, assuming you only discharge the Yeti 400 50%, because doing more than that will damage the battery, is at best probably about 3 and a half hours. The further you are from the equator and the cloudier it is, the longer it will take. This is why I'm running two 100 watt panels in parallel in the video. It charges twice as fast and I can power things using just the solar energy from the panels while the sun is out. Hope that helps.
So if you can only attach one 100 amp solar panel to the yeti 400, whats this about adding an additional battery in parallel to the yet 400 and what type of lithium battery does this unit have in it?
+My Nam They're really close, but I think the flexible one produces a bit more power in the shade. It's not enough to matter though, IMO. The light weight, flexibility, and thin profile are the real advantages.
can I do this with a yeti 150? I have a 60w panel...if I buy another & connect them like you did will there be a problem? I see you doubled the amps by connecting like this & made it 10A and the yeti 400 can do 14-29V, up to 10A (120W max). so you're safe. with the yeti 150 I am allowed 14-29V, up to 5A (60W max). Here are my panel specs: Related power: 60W Voc: 21.6V Vop: 18V Short circuit current (Isc): 3.66A Working current (Iop): 3.33A Output Tolerance: ±3% Temperate coefficient of Isc: (010+/- 0.01)%/ ℃ Temperate coefficient of Voc: - (0.38 +/-0.01)%/ ℃ Temperate coefficient of power Voc: -0.47%/℃ Temperature range: -40℃to +80℃ Frame: Heavy duty aluminum Kind of connection: waterproof junction box, can be customized Kind of glass and its thickness: Low Iron, high transparency tempered glass of 3.2mm SLA Battery Voltage: 12V
When you connect panels in parallel, you add the amps. 3.66A + 3.66A = 7.32A, which exceeds your 5A max. I'm just trusting you for that spec. I haven't looked up the amp max on the 150.
Thanks for your reply. Yes, I copied straight from the box. This will not work unless I get panels with 2.5Amps each to total 5A. I will just keep the yeti 150/60W panel for my small stuff and it need be I'll get a 400 to hook up like yours. Once again, thanks for replying and have a great day!
I don't know. If your cell phone would get ruined, the Yeti 400 would probably get ruined too. I'm not sure there is any way around that, short of putting them both in a faraday cage.
I've read in many places that the Yeti 400 can't take more than an input of 120 watts. Does hooking up 200w only work because each 100 w panel doesn't actually draw the full amount from the sun? What happens if they each draw the full 100w? Would you screw up the Yeti or can you add in a charge controller to help with this?
+Abbey Loos 120 watts is marketing. Look at the amps and volts the charge controller can handle. Call goal zero and ask them the max amps and volts the charge controller will accept. Then choose solar panels under those limits.
also between the parallel branch connectors and your goal zero y connector, you have some short mc4 extensions, where did you get them as I cannot find any such short extensions
Thanks for doing this video, I'm new to solar power and was beginning to think the Yeti would only work with Goal Zero's expensive panels! Would you recommend two of the Renology 100w panels with the Yeti 400 as a compete system to use every day to charge 2 macbook pros, and a few low power usage things like portable DVD player, LED lights, ipod, phone, small stereo etc? I'm finding this all a bit confusing, as Goal Zero say a maximum of 120w input in their information, but you and others are saying that more than that in panels is fine, and I just want to get enough panels to charge it to 100% on a winter day, but I don't want to risk wrecking the Yeti by overloading it. When I go to Amazon and it says the 100w panel is 12 volts, does this mean that two of them linked together is 24 volts?
+The Nourishing Hearthfire I find it extremely confusing too. Don't worry. It's confusing because it's an incredibly complex subject. You could use a system like that to charge macbooks in the summer, on sunny days, during the day. However, you won't have much battery for night use or cloudy day use, and it probably won't work well in the winter, as I've learned this winter with my Yeti 400. Winter days are way more frequently overcast than summer days, and while they're overcast they deliver even less power to the panels than overcast summer days. My 13" macbook pro can only charge once on the Yeti 400 battery before it's down to about 60%. You don't want to drain an AGM battery more than 50%. Really, you don't want to drain them less than 20% for max longevity. So that 400wh on the Yeti 400 is really 200wh at best. It's a marketing trick. You could look at the Yeti 1250 (link in the description above). It would give you about 600wh of usable battery power. You could charge both macbooks one and a half times with that before needing to recharge the Yeti. Still not a lot of battery backup though. If you don't need to be portable, building your own Lead Acid battery bank is the easiest solution. Decide how many amp hours of power you need, then build a battery bank using AGM or Wet Lead Acid batteries to meet that need. Add a charge controller, add solar modules, add an inverter, add all the necessary fusing etc. I'm not particularly fond of lead acid batteries though. They're easy to use, cheap, and readily available (everything uses lead acid: fork lifts, cars, golf carts, etc, so the supply is there). However, they have a really short cycle life. Read this for a comparison between lead acid and lithium batteries: www.victronenergy.com/blog/2015/03/30/batteries-lithium-ion-vs-agm/ If you do need to be portable, or you just want your batteries to last longer than 3 years, going with the more expensive but much lighter weight and longer lasting LifePO4 battery chemistry is probably the best solution, but you need to know a LOT about how they operate before you go this route, or have someone who knows what they're doing build the system for you. Regarding solar panel voltage: When a seller says a panel is 12V, they mean it's appropriate for charging 12V batteries. The actual panel voltage can be much higher than that. On the amazon page, you'll see specs for the panel like this: Optimum Operating Voltage (Vmp): 18.9V Optimum Operating Current (Imp): 5.29A Open-Circuit Voltage (Voc): 22.5V Short-Circuit Current (Isc): 5.75A You have the choice to combine the panels in series or in parallel. If you combine in series, it adds the voltage. If you do it in parallel, it adds the amperage. Do some googling about this to learn more.
+createthis Thank you! I feel a lot more informed about it after reading your comment. How do you figure out how many amp hours you need in batteries? Is there any simple way to work out from the KWh I use in a day how many amp hours of storage I need? I was thinking of using nickel iron batteries for the system once we've built the house, which I've heard can be drained 100% without problems.
+The Nourishing Hearthfire Nickle iron is extremely long lasting, but also very inefficient. You'll put in way more energy than you get out. Lithium is the opposite. It's extremely charge efficient. Just something to think about. This looks like a pretty good calculator btw: rimstar.org/renewnrg/sizing_select_batteries_for_off_grid_solar_system.htm
I just bought the yeti 400 and I was wondering, is there another unit that is just as easy to use, roughly same price ($350), but better than goal zero? I like the GZ because you don't have to piece it all together with controllers, bat banks etc. just plug and play simple, but I keep hearing mention of the fact that it's AGM there are limitations. What is the alternative? Thanks!
+Mark Saenz I think building your own is the only real alternative, unless something just hit the market I'm unaware of. Agm is heavy and needs to be topped off regularly, but otherwise it's fine.
Man, this is an awesome video! Very helpful! I'm having some issues with my device. I have a 100 watt panel reading at 18.9 volts in direct sunlight. However, my Yeti is only showing 28 Watts of input. Any idea of what it could be? If you have any ideas, let me know. Thanks!
Hey! Thanks for the quick response. I'll try it out again tomorrow, but I started off at 12.2 volts so around 60%. When the sun came down, I plugged the AC charger into the wall and it immediately was charging at 68 watts (which is the max I think for the AC adapter). I was really disappointed with that charging rate. I am not familiar with the stadium effect, but I'm assuming the input gets reduced since the battery is reaching its capacity? Thanks again for all of the info!
+Jeff Lombardi that doesn't sound right. If the panel in direct sunlight isn't putting in the same power as the ac charger something is wrong. I'd inspect the wiring for loose connections and shorts. Make sure the panel isn't partially shaded and the cells and clean. If the problem persists, consider calling renogy for support and/or returning the panel.
Thanks again! Subscribed! I only measured Volts, which seemed right in line, but should I be measuring the amperage to assure it's putting out 5 amps? Panel was in direct line and clean as a whistle. I was measuring this from the MC4 connectors off the panel and was putting out those volts. The only things I can think of is it's not putting out 5 amps, the mc4 to 8mm cable is bad or potentially that my charge controller is not operating properly.
+Jeff Lombardi I don't think measuring the volts or amps of the panel in an open circuit tells you much. It tells you there is electricity available, but that's about it. My understanding is that when the panel is connected to the Yeti the voltage will be dragged down to the yeti's battery voltage, so that 18 volts ends up as 12 volts or so. If you can measure the amps using an inductive clamp while the Yeti is attached to the panel then you can verify the wattage reported by the Yeti is correct. That may be worth doing if you have the equipment. However, I think the chance that it's the meter on the Yeti is pretty low as it reports the correct input wattage for the wall ac. What may be worthwhile is using the meter to measure resistance in the PV cables. If you have high resistance in those cables it could mean a bad crimp.
Where did you get that female to female connector? It goes between the solar panels and the Goal Zero Y-cable. It looks like it is about 6-8 inches long. Did you make it?
Yes, I made it using the techniques and tools in this video: th-cam.com/video/0tWaQlRrxxc/w-d-xo.html Some of the solar panels I own have a male MC4 end on the positive wire. Others have a female MC4 on the positive wire. These adapters help me iron out those discrepancies.
Have you considered adding an external battery to each of the Anderson connections that are located on both sides of your yeti 400? I understand that it will increase the run time but doesn't increase the wattage output.
I built a much larger system years ago. This particular device is no longer in production. It was chainable, according to the product page, but I never tried it.
+Sue Moore yes. You'd have to buy or make an adapter though. I don't remember what the harbor freight panel connector is called (I have a hf 15w panel laying around the house unused).
Can you hook up twp 100 watt solar panels to the yeti 400 or not. I am without power and need to use the item to run my computer and wireless hotspot which has an ac connection. Also on the y connector that is constantly out of stock, what did you mean by a reverse polarity one. Amazon is out of this item. Do you have any in stock?
I'm a little confused by this question. You can use two 100 watt panels with a Yeti 400. I do it in the video right in front of you and I explain how it's done. Did you watch the video? I don't sell the Y connectors, unfortunately. You can DIY your own by buying one of the other 8mm goal zero adapters (car charger for example) and adapting MC4 connectors to it (either cut off the end and solder/crimp, or make a car charger to MC4 adapter. I have a video about how to DIY MC4 cables here: th-cam.com/video/0tWaQlRrxxc/w-d-xo.html
If you need power quickly and don't want to make your own Y connector, you might consider buying Goal Zero solar panels (more expensive): [affiliate] amzn.to/2gV0LMp Or an efficient gas generator: [affiliate] amzn.to/2tBy4Km
I have a yeti 400 and tried to use a non goal zero panel using the goal zero mc4 to 8mm cable, every time I install the panel nothing happens or if in parallel to a goal zero 20w (using the goal zero 4 to 1 8mm lead) normal the blue light goes out as soon as this connects, I believe it should be ok but not sure why it won’t work? Any ideas- Pmax -20w Vpm - 2.81 Ipm - 7.10a Voc -3.60v Isc - 7.80 Thanks for any help anyone might be able to give.
+createthis if i have 1 250watt solar panel and ill use it to charge the yeti 400, will it work or too much? thanks fpr the reply. note: just one 250 watt solar panel.
Hi there love your video great energy! I have one small question, is it possible to to connect one 160 w solar panel 12.5A from inovtech to the Yeti 400? Since goal zero advise a max of 120 w for 10A? Thanks :)
winter sucks too. I didn't realize how much it sucks when I made this video. Putting the panels on the roof helped a bit, but ultimately I needed more panels and more battery if I wanted to use solar during the winter.
+Gabez you shouldn't ever drain it below 50% if you want the battery to last. The recharge time depends on the input wattage. If you charge at 100 watts, it'll take about two and a half hours to recharge from 50% to 100%.
+createthis thanks again if I may ask one more question. I have a renogy 100watt solar suitcase it has a built in pwm charge controller will it work with this unit?
+520wsd hmmm. I'm not sure. It will work if you bypass the built-in charge controller. It might work with the charge controller, but then you're using two charge controllers inline and I'm not sure if that will cause problems.
Love the videos, but I am on the dumber side when it has to do with electronics... I watched all your yeti videos because I just got one and wanted to get bigger solar panels that weren't costing an arm and a leg going thru GZ... I seen that you blew your inverter, would that have anything to do with using the two 100w panels? Or was that just from the water? Maybe the solar panels have nothing to do with the inverter idk lol. I just don't want to blow it up when I buy the two 100w panels
createthis One more question. The manual says it can take 120w charging with solar panels, are you able to go above that because you have them hooked up parallel? If that's it then would it be true that you can have as many watts coming in as long as you don't go over the 29 volts?
HI there great video! I am a solar newbie, and this helped me a lot! Currently I am looking to power a yeti 400 like you, and wanted to know if i do the same setup you have in the video, but with 2 100w Renogy angels in parallel, that it would work just like the 2 panels in your video. Thanks for the help!
Thanks so much for the response. Yes I would be using the one you have in the video x2. Running in Parallel is the key though? Gotta get that 120w of juice!!
Sorry one more question for you, noticed you have some type of intermediate connector in-between the goal zero 8mm to mc4 connector and the connector of the solar panel. 17.24 into video. Is that part needed? Is it possibly the RENOGY® 9 inches adapter kit? here is link- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DGXVO80/ref=s9_al_bw_g23_i1 Thanks again for the help, and time! Just want to make sure i get the right stuff based on the polarities being right
Great vid thanks! Quick question. What is the small connector piece (2 pieces, one on each cable) that is located BETWEEN the Goal Zero MC4 to 8mm Goal Zero Y cable, and the Parallel MC4 Branch Connectors ? I'm doing the same hookup and could really use your expertise. If you have an affiliate link for whatever product those connectors are, I'll use it. I already bought a bunch of stuff using your affiliate link-I enjoy your vids with your son! It LOOKS like some kind of Mc4 connector, but I don't know...and if it is, how did you get that small 3" looking wire attached to it? Did you cut it and make this section yourself? I'm a solar newby. THANK you!!
They are gender reversing adapters. Some of my adapters and panels came with swapped polarity MC4 ends. I wasn't 100% sure at the time which end went with which polarity (still not sure, really), so I made adapters rather than cutting and modifying the original cables. I made them myself using MC4 ends and PV cable. I have a video about making MC4 cables here: th-cam.com/video/0tWaQlRrxxc/w-d-xo.html As always, for your convenience, tools and materials are listed in the description.
Thanks for the quick reply. That's awful that they sent all the defective swapped polarity stuff to you! Then again, if they didn't, people like me wouldn't have the pleasure of watching the vid's fixing their mistakes. I pray they don't send me the switched polarity stuff. I wouldn't even know how to identify if that happened, let alone be able to tackle it right now. I appreciate the response and links! Have an awesome day!
I recommend you invest in a multimeter if you don't already have one. Even with a cheap multimeter (harbor freight, for example) you can insert the probes into the MC4 connectors and see which end is positive and which is negative. Highly recommended for any DIY solar setup.
Thanks for the tip! I'm quite green with this stuff, but do have a wee knack - "where there's a will, there's a way." I find ways to rig stuff somehow. Now for hazards, well.....LOL. Fire extinguishers a must! LOL. I found 14 multimeters on Harbor Freight. I have NO clue what to get. I don't want to bother you, yet any direction on choosing would be so appreciated. Never used one, no idea even how. (What's with everything not having directions these days). Would need good directions, foolproof shall we say. If there's an affiliate link to that, I'd use it also. If this is too much right now, I totally understand. Life is hectic, so no worries either way. Thanks so much Jessie! www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=multimeter No rush, no worries! BTW, have you done any reviews on Powerfilm? ie: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JOOFG8O/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_30?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1VOUFSIGRIGBC Best to you and your family! I'm placing orders this week and won't be in 'harass' mode once this is all finally taken care of for the month's festivities. :-)
considering you only need to read voltage, the $6 unit is probably fine: www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-90899.html Multimeters are like any other tool. Quality = $$$. I use a pro grade Fluke 87-V Digital Multimeter: amzn.to/2heYd8H but honestly the Fluke is super overkill if you just need to check voltage polarity. Regarding powerfilm: I think it's obsolete tech. If you want an ultra portable 60W panel, use this folding panel: KINGSOLAR™ Highest Efficient 60W Foldable Solar Panel Portable Solar Charger Dual Output (USB Port + DC Output): amzn.to/2hbMLtX
@@createthisdotcom I think it still may be slang, but it does refer to current direction. you can push current by providing a higher potential (voltage) to an object of a lower potential. Things that use current or power draw current. its a give and take relationship.
+Daniel Duarte what are "simple things"? I took my yeti 400 and my 12v Engel mr040 fridge to the beach a couple of weeks ago. Powered it all with a 120w ultralight cloth folding solar panel.
I am most interested in running low power fan(s) in my van since the wife and are I sleeping in it. My biggest concern is keeping the van as cool as possible by circulating air.
so essentially letting the unit charge all day and run it over an 8 hour sleeping period at night. I don't have laptops and stuff and my camera battery holds a charge for a long time.
You'll need to figure out how many watts the fan draws. That's step one. Next, let's assume this is a 12v system. You'll need to multiply fan wattage by the amount of time it will be running while there is no sun. This will be your minimum battery capacity. For example, if it's a 30 watt fan (One of the user reviews on the MaxxAir 7000k on Amazon mentions 2.3 amps at 12v, so that's close to 30 watts) and you need it to run for 12 hours then 30 * 12 = 360wh. You'd need 360wh of usable battery capacity in that case. It gets more complicated because AGM batteries can only be used for 20-50% of their rated capacity if you want them to last any reasonable amount of time. So, if you only want to drain your battery 20%, you'd need to multiply 360wh * 5 = 1800wh AGM. (I use AGM here because you asked about the Yeti and it's AGM, but it's only 400wh) That's the battery. For the solar panel, you probably need it to be able to return 360wh of charge to that battery every day, even if it's cloudy. If you ignore winter and only size this for summer, when it's hot, then you get a lot of daylight hours. You can use offgrid solar calculators to figure out how many panels you need. I used this one and put in 10.8kwh per month (360wh * 30 days) at 6 solar hours per day and 100% usage and it told me the minimum panel size was 60 watts: www.wholesalesolar.com/solar-information/start-here/offgrid-calculator Personally, I'd triple or quadruple that 60 watt panel size. That way you can run the fan AND charge the batteries during the day, or just charge the battery when it's cloudy. I'd also design the system with a little extra space to double the battery size later. You'll probably find other uses for solar besides the fan and more power is always better. In short, no, the Yeti 400 probably isn't big enough. However, it makes a great learner system if you just want to get your hands dirty with some solar. BTW, check out my recent LifePO4 Solar Generator Build series: th-cam.com/play/PLdQ4o1tGX6XUuU_yPvQMpa5Qfp5jBAkzB.html That's what I'm intending to use in my van for the fan and 12v refrigerator and whatever else I want to run. It's probably overkill, but I'm having fun with it, and hopefully that series takes some of the mystery out of LifePO4 solar for people. It's complicated, but doable DIY.
@Createthis DO you have an affiliate link for this: 120w ultralight cloth folding solar panel? I'll buy through it for the great vids youare putting out. Thanks!
watts are an immediate measure of power. If you want to know how much capacity the battery has, you want to talk about watt hours, abbreviated "wh". The Yeti 400 has a 400wh AGM battery. However, the thing with AGM (and lead acid batteries in general) is that the more deeply you discharge it, the fewer cycles the battery will last. They call the discharge level DoD or Depth of Discharge. So if your DoD is 50%, you might expect somewhere around 300 cycles from the battery. If your DoD is higher than 50%, your battery won't last as long. So most people recommend a DoD of 20%. 20% of 400wh is just 80 wh! 50% of 400wh is 200wh. That's why you see different numbers. Also, keep in mind that the number of watts (not watt hours) the inverter can supply at any given point in time is different from the battery's wh rating.
as software developer willing to work off the grid a couple of days a week i was waiting for this kind of review related to namely among others an all day long laptop use and for a while before opting for a yeti 400 purchase. also cool you replied all comments very useful pieces of info there. thanks a lot. good job
IIRC, many of the controllers adjust the charging amount depending on how much charge remains in the battery, i.e., the controller will pass more charging current to a battery charged at 50% than it would to a battery charged at 90%.
+Mike Masztal yes, and they usually do it by pulse width modulation, rather than actually increasing the current, they turn it on and off rapidly.
The weird thing about this box is the Anderson connectors. The can charge up to 230 watts I'm told, and you can chain other batteries in parallel with the lead acid versions. So, in theory, you could get a charge regulator with wind and solar, plug that into the Anderson connectors on one side, and plug in a series of cheap 33 ah batteries on the otherside, resulting in a small system that could probably power an RV fridge and some other stuff. But by the time you are there, you are basically making your own system. Still this is a good tip. It's a shame there isn't something like the yeti 400, with a better charge controller, lithium based battery, that can handle solar, water and wind up to a higher wattage, with say, 400-500 watts AC out. Because you don't really need a big battery, what you need is a) the ability to draw b) the ability to use most of the charge c) the ability to harvest maximum energy. You can get some cheapish wind turbines, and some cheapish panels. You can build a reasonably cheap system yourself but it requires battery boxes, wire safety, spark plugs, messes of wires, mounting shit. It'd be LOVELY to just have a system of folding stand up panels, a single battery box without too much cost, and a little portable verticle wind turbine or two for those stormy days.
DIY is your best option here. Hopefully you don't burn the house down wiring it. My first DIY generator had a few bad crimps and I'm lucky it didn't burn anything down.
8 mm connection can only intake 140w. 240w for the Anderson power pole
If you connect a 200w panel to the 8mm intake port will it damage it?
The charge controller only accepts (should) 120W. Look on the specs on your Yeti.
I've got two of them running full time. I run computers, tablets and phones, modem, router, and quite a few light a life 350s on a daily basis. I have 120W of panels running into one and 100W running the other.
Great review thanks for sharing.
Brian Soloman That's marketing speak for you. The reality is that it accepts anything under 29 volts. This was what I learned when I called Goal Zero. They said it didn't really have an amperage limit, though I don't believe that. In practice, with two 100W panels, that sort of equals 120 watts, but it can go higher if conditions are right.
Really? That's interesting. I was careful to stay right at 120W of input because of the limit. Thanks for sharing that. I appreciate it.
+Brian Soloman Goal Zero told me that all of the Yeti's have a limit on how many watts it will accept, but the charge controller will not let more wattage in than it can handle. I have used a Boulder 30 AND a Renogy 100 watt into my Yeti 150, and it controlled the wattage just fine. Voltage, however, is another animal.
There is a really nice iPhone app that helps you align panels, and is worth looking into. It is called Solar Tracker. The alignment makes all the difference in the input wattage.
Kevin K Thanks!
Jess, thanks for the video. I just purchased (12/1/15) a Yeti 1250 and am awaiting shipment. The base panels are two 30-watters. Their add-on Boulder-90 is $400!! These two panels that you reviewed would be the way to go for any add-ons. Of course, this is dependent upon cable hook up compatibility.
+GSMSfromFV I've got a link to the MC4 to 8mm Goal Zero Y cable above in the description. You have to buy it direct from Goal Zero. Amazon doesn't carry it. Should be what you need to connect one panel. If you're going with two, like me, check out the Parallel MC4 Branch Connectors, also above in the description. The actual wiring is easy. I've got a video for attaching MC4 connectors: th-cam.com/video/0tWaQlRrxxc/w-d-xo.html Enjoy!
+createthis __ Thanks, Jess. I live here in So. Cal., and my main concern is extended power outages from an earthquake that would last 3 days or longer. I would need to run my mini-refrig, desktop computer, and some LED lights for that period of time without draining my battery(s) to zero. What is your estimate of the wattage I'd need? 400? The panels would be installed on my patio cover with the cable running thru the attic in a semi-permanent setup.
+GSMSfromFV Pretty hard to answer that without knowing how much power your mini fridge, desktop computer, and LED lights pull on an hourly basis. Also, keep in mind that you can only drain the 1250 or 400 25-50% if you want the battery to last. These are AGM batteries, so you can take a look at Depth of Discharge (DOD) vs Cycle Life charts like this one: www.civicsolar.com/forum/12092/which-one-has-higher-life-cycle-gel-or-agm-batteries
There's a pretty good chance even the 1250 will be undersized if you expect to go 3 days on battery alone, but it'll probably work fine for a 12v fridge, a laptop, and 50 watts of lighting if you only plan to use it for a few hours in the evenings and you plan to get a full charge each day from sunlight. There is a ton of math you can/should do to figure all of this out, but I think the Yeti 400 and the Yeti 1250 are excellent tools if you'd prefer to just dive in and get your hands dirty and find out what the hardware is capable of doing. Book knowledge is no substitute for experience. You'll learn a lot just using the system. I know I did.
+createthis __ Thanks, Jess. Mini-refrig. is 100 watts, maybe five LED lights at 15 watts each, the Gateway desktop is maybe 500 watts. I guess I have my answer. 400 watts wouldn't be enough. Fortunately, my patio cover would easily fit six of these panels.
+GSMSfromFV Probably cheaper to buy a laptop than six panels. My macbook pro draws about 80 watts at full load, 20 - 45 watts under normal circumstances. Also, I don't think the 1250 is rated for 600 watts of solar input. The manual says 240 watts spread out over the 2 8mm inputs.
If you REALLY want 600 watts of solar input, you should probably buy a big expensive MPPT controller, like a midnight classic, a midnight kid, an outback, or a Victron Blue series. I plan to go down this road myself someday, just for fun. You have to pay a lot of attention to voltage and wire sizing when you get above the 200w level. Safety issues are a real concern and you can electrocute yourself and/or burn the house down if you're not careful. Also, anytime you mount a panel to something, you should think about building codes. Probably no one cares for a small panel, but once you get close to the kw range people might start caring.
100 watts isn't too bad for a fridge, but if you want to downsize that you can get something like my 12V Engel MR40 which draws about 35 watts ( from memory, don't quote me on that; skip around in this video for details: th-cam.com/video/O_DnUwPpbKQ/w-d-xo.html ).
I do think the 1250 is always a better choice as long as you can afford it and don't need it to be hand portable. I think it weighs 100 lbs. Has to be wheeled around if you need to move it.
I use flexible panels with a tracker. I originally purchased 2 aluminum stands about $40 each I ended up just getting 4 ft metal lengths they have holes every 1.5" right angle and it makes it pretty modular I can separate the panels , 2 and 2 with yeti you don't use a controller because one is built in. There are times I could charge my battery bank with an MPPT and 1 100 watt panel per yeti . I never charged the yeti with more than 1 100 watt panel I don't think that's a good idea according to the tech specs from goal zero.
I have to say maybe it's the movement of air on the under layer but I have found the flexibles at least 10% more efficient than a glass 100 watt panel. THEY ALWAYS put out more amps than the framed glass panel I think it's air flow
"it's a modest yard, I live in the city" I'm not sure that word means what you think it means 🤣
Let me know if I use 150 wtts pano sola to the yeti 400 what happens.
Unless your living at the equator and it's high noon you are not charging your panels effectively. The panels should be tilted up to the angle of the sun. You can find the sun angle at any given, time for your area online. It the sun is at forty degrees on the horizon, the solar panel should tilted at 40 degrees. This will give full output from the panel.
Kiet, your Google Plus settings don't allow me to reply directly. If you're interested in buying one of the 100W panels, click the Show More link under the description. I've got a lot of amazon affiliate links there for you to click.
Great vid, gonna purchase Yeti and glass panel soon !!!
You can find something like this on the Avasva page. Full step-by-step instructions right on your desk.
I like to know what would happen if it when the battery runs down and you have the converter on and what happens when the battery recharges is a converter going to be on or you have to push the button. I'm hoping that the converter will automatically come back on. In this I hope that the programmer has kept a safety-net voltage.
If you run the battery in the yeti 400 all the way down you’ve sized your system incorrectly. You shouldn’t ever draw more than a certain percent from an AGM battery, and ideally no more than 20% for max longevity.
@@createthisdotcom well of course I want to stay in that percentage of usage. I just want to know if it's a set it and forget it type of thing and it will turn itself back on when it supposed to be smart enough to do so or is it. Thank you for replying back. I appreciate it.
@@hgboone3 what I do is use a low voltage disconnect off the black and red anderson connectors. This keeps the battery voltage from dropping too low and allows it to turn back on automatically when the sun comes out. It's kind of a long boring video, but I documented how to do this here: th-cam.com/video/O_DnUwPpbKQ/w-d-xo.html
Based on the tech spec the GZ states it’s 120w via blue port. How did you manage to push more in? I know on Sherpa units the logic boards get fussy and refuse to take more wattage via blue port as I’ve tried a 60w into a Sherpa 50
Thank you so much for this video, it was EXACTLY what I was looking for for my van conversion!
hi!!! great video! i love it! before i buy the yeti 400 i have some questions to an expert like you: 1.) Whats the exact incoming amperage of your configuration with these two 100w panels? 2.) Whats the biggest possible configuration (max. ampere? and max. watt? in a parallel system) for using the goal zero pwm sola charge controller without taking any risks? Can you tell us the technical specifications? 3.) Did you know who is manufacturer oft the wpm controller and the display? is it possible to buy these components separately? thanks!
So, I want to hook my two 100W Grape solar panels in parallel, not series?
Pretty good yard to me. What else can this charge. 19 inch tv. Small fridge?
+ray bon my yeti 400 will run a small 12v D.C. Fridge all night, but not much longer. Needs a charge during the day to keep going, so cloudy days are bad.
+ray bon for a tv, take the wattage of the tv and divide 200 by the wattage of the tv. That's your run time in hours before you need a charge with the Yeti 400.
That's awesome info. I heard somewhere else there's a fridge called a dometic. Suppose to use less electricity. Also another thing. You can put a piece, of clear plastic behind the door. So when you open the door the plastic, covers the food like a second door then cut a slip in the middle of the plastic. By doing this. The cold air dosent escaped. And you can grab your food through the opening in the slit. This prevents maybe the need for the motor to kick on. Problem is small fridge once the door opens the cold air escapes.
Same place I read that. I also read that? Due to the fact, the small fridge let's out so much cold air, and its walls are thinner. The freezer stand up freezer is more efficient. Cause it does let out so much cold air, and then it's walls are thicker. Vs. A small fridge.
Nice work and info. If I plan to fully drain that battery every night, Do you think two of those marine panels in parallel can completely recharge the battery during the long and strong Florida day? Also, those glass panels need to have separation from the floor? There is a single 175W glass panel on Amazon for under $200, I wonder if that could fully recharge the Yeti with just that?
You only want to discharge an AGM battery 50% max. The more you discharge it, the shorter the cycle life. Two 100 watt panels should be able to recharge 200 watts in a day, yes, unless it’s super cloudy.
+R Finnie Your Google Plus settings keep me from replying directly. However, in regard to your question about running an AC/DC fridge from solar using the Yeti 400, yes, it can be done. See this video: th-cam.com/video/O_DnUwPpbKQ/w-d-xo.html
I recommend having another deep cycle battery on one of the chaining ports though, just for some additional capacity.
Thanks, it helped my out.
very good info on your video. I read the previous comments about daisy chaining an additional battery where you mentioned as long as its the same capacity...however, a rep from goal zero told me its ok if it is a larger capacity (ex. 100ah) AS LONG as the batteries are both charged to the same level at connection...essentially, both full charged first.
could you verify this?
for what its worth, my overall goal is to use my yeti 400 in my van which has a main battery and a aux battery. the aux battery only charges when the van is in motion. when parked my main battery is disconnected from the aux battery and all my lights, outlets in the van body run off my aux battery. My intended goal would be to connect the yeti to the aux battery and have both charge via solar while PARKED. then when moving I would like my can to charge both the aux battery and the yeti...thoughts?
thanks very much in advance. I've watch several of your videos and I respect and value your input over some random internet troll.
+se pudo personally, I'd leave the engine battery disconnected while parked, that way you can always start the engine in case you accidentally drain the battery. If you're worried about draining it from staying in one place for a long time I have a video about using folding 60w panels on the dash to charge via the cigarette lighter while parked. You could adapt this concept and just have a single panel dedicated to charging the engine starter battery at all times.
+se pudo here's a link to the folding panel dash charger solution. I use this to this day on two vehicles. Works great. th-cam.com/video/CxXZBKfLUEM/w-d-xo.html
I'm trying this next. I saw a study that explained this. You are right. I'm gonna add a larger battery next to my system. Excited that I can add a larger battery when I get my RV unit set up. Right now I'm chaining the same capacity battery for emergency conditions.
I notice the 400 come with either lead acid or lithium. Which type are you using here?
If the input has a max intake of 150w but you plug in a 200w solar panel, will you fry the unit?
Depends on what the max amp output is of the panel. Should be labeled on the back of the panel or the product description online. Watts = volts * amps
So I am going to get this same exact set up thru your links on the video. But it looks like there is an adapter connected to the GZ 8mm adapter? I don't see anything listed in your links but it looks like an adapter that connects to the GZ 8mm that connects to the the Branch Connecter?
+Zachary Anaya it's probably just a short run of cable I made that I use to swap mc4 genders when necessary. Some of my panels came with mismatched genders for positive and negative.
Do you think with this set up you could power a small AC/DC rv fridge (under 2 cubic feet). I know that with the bigger goal zero 1250 that would likely be possible but it is so big and so heavy and not easy to move around. I just want to run a small fridge for about 3 - 6 days of camping where there are no hook ups. I've always used a 3 way fridge and ran it off propane when there are no hookups. The trailer we are interested in purchasing only has this 2 way fridge available. Thought solar could be a possible answer but know little about solar or fridges and am not that familiar with the terminology involved so I am having trouble figuring it out.
I ran my Indel-B 50l fridge for about 28 hours (including the initial cool-down from ambient temp, with a 12 pack of room temperature cans and a few bottles of water) with intermittent / short spurts of AC charging (when the vehicle was running and my onboard inverter had power). I had 27% left on a Goal Zero Yeti 400 Lithium after that. If you get a full fridge down to your operating temperature and then hook a Goal Zero up, it'll last a lot longer - I doubt a 400 will last you 3-6 days, but the 1000 lithium that they sell via Costco may do the trick for you. I am probably going to run a 60w solar panel to help ease the load on the Goal Zero (and recharge it when my fridge's compressor is not on).
+NHTacoma dat Costco price doe. Too high.
Thank you for your very informative video. Sorry if question was already asked but what are the female to female and male to male MC4 cables for? Is it to reverse the solar panels polarity before connecting to the GZ MC4 to 8mm adaptor cable? Why is this needed?
+7siamesecat correct. One or more of my panels and/or adapters has the polarity of the mc4 connectors reversed. This was a simple solution. I could have also fixed the cables that were incorrect, but I couldn't easily determine which polarity was correct at the time.
Great video I just ordered the yeti can I use any panel with it or do you suggest the goal zero panel
+Anthony L I linked to some panels that work in the description of the video. You just have to get a panel with the right voltage and amperage range.
Would someone please help me, new to solar power!
I purchased a goal zero yeti 400, I then purchased a 12v 120w solar panel and the Anderson to 8mm goal zero cable. When I plug it in to charge my goal zero the light flicks on a few times then goes off?
Also I purchased the cigarette lighter to 8mm adapter to charge my yeti and when the van is running it says the Input is 1/2watts or it says low input, is this correct?
Thanks jordan
Great video! I wanted to run just one of these 100w panels with my other goal zero 20w panels & a goal zero 15w panel. Total of 155 watt. Could I simply just purchase the 100w panel along with the MC4 to 8mm Goal Zero Y cable and chain this directly to my other goal zero panels?
In other words: Yeti 400 -->20w -->20w -->15w -->MC4 to 8mm Goal Zero Y cable -->100w
+The Pipe Parlor in series or parallel?
Parallel I believe. Wouldn't the 8mm Goal Zero Y cable plugged directly into the 100w then into other goal zero panels make it parallel. (still trying to figure that all out)
+The Pipe Parlor You might need these parallel branch connectors if you're doing parallel: amzn.to/1lVUrSw I'm not sure. I don't think those goal zero panels use MC4 connectors, so your best bet might be to cut off whatever connectors they ship with and add your own MC4 or Anderson Powerpole connectors, depending on the wire size. If you can find the goal zero connectors online, you might be able to make a parallel connector from that too.
The Yeti 400 has a 29 volt input limit, so be sure not to exceed that, which you won't if you're doing parallel.
I don't know what the amperage limit is on the Yeti 400. I know it has one, but when I called the lady who answered didn't know what it was. I recommend calling Goal Zero and figuring that out. Insist on talking to an engineer if they can't answer your question directly. Let me know what they say too. I'm curious.
Read this article about mixing solar panels: solarpanelsvenue.com/mixing-solar-panels/
If the panel voltage is the same, the amps will just add up in parallel. However, if the voltage is different, you'll be losing a bit of power. It might still be worth it for you if you already have the panels though. I've been wanting to do a video on panel mixing for a while. I might do it soon now that you brought it up and I have a bunch of different panels laying around.
Good luck!
+createthis Here's an image of the parallel Anderson Powerpole adapter I made, next to the parallel MC4 connector from this video: i.imgur.com/12BOzUK.jpg
I suspect you could do something similar with goal zero connectors.
+createthis Thanks so much for the help, and reference pictures!
I thought input on yeti 400 was limited to 120W by the charge controller. Was is not an issue with these two 100W panels in full sun?
+7siamesecat I thought I covered this extensively in the video? Charge controllers care about amps and volts, not watts. The watt rating is marketing bs.
I'm trying to understand the parallel set up you have. I see that you have a mc4 y that goes from the battery to the T connectors, then to the panels. Is there a cord that is running in between the Y and the T? Thanks.
Are you willing to write out the cables in order from the yeti to the panel?
Yes, there are cables between the Y and the parallel adapters. I made them myself. I show how to do that here: th-cam.com/video/0tWaQlRrxxc/w-d-xo.html Regarding the second sentence... are you asking for a diagram?
How much current does the 100watt eco glass panel send to the 400? I ordered an eco panel, a goal 400 and all the cables. Was curious on how much time would it take to charge the 400 with the eco panel. Thanks
They list the current specs on each panel product description, usually.
createthis why not just answer the question
Because it's more work for me. But here, let me look it up for you. I assume this is the panel you're referring to (ECO-WORTHY): amzn.to/2fxemEg
If you scroll down the page to the description section, they list this:
Short circuit current (Isc): 6.88A
So at most, with no other panels in parallel, you can expect 6.88 amps from this panel.
I just saw your other part of the question now. The amount of time it takes to charge 200 watt hours (wh) from a 100 watt panel, assuming you only discharge the Yeti 400 50%, because doing more than that will damage the battery, is at best probably about 3 and a half hours. The further you are from the equator and the cloudier it is, the longer it will take. This is why I'm running two 100 watt panels in parallel in the video. It charges twice as fast and I can power things using just the solar energy from the panels while the sun is out.
Hope that helps.
So if you can only attach one 100 amp solar panel to the yeti 400, whats this about adding an additional battery in parallel to the yet 400 and what type of lithium battery does this unit have in it?
+shyanne lundahl you can attach two 100 watt panels in parallel. Just don't exceed the charge controller's rated Amps and Volts.
+shyanne lundahl regarding lithium vs agm, check out my other video that explains it: th-cam.com/video/B5eqEfd-tB0/w-d-xo.html
you know how you said those two panels drew 20watts in shade?
can you find out which of the two panels draws more? the flexible one or the sturdy one?
+My Nam nevermind u did this!
+My Nam They're really close, but I think the flexible one produces a bit more power in the shade. It's not enough to matter though, IMO. The light weight, flexibility, and thin profile are the real advantages.
can I do this with a yeti 150? I have a 60w panel...if I buy another & connect them like you did will there be a problem? I see you doubled the amps by connecting like this & made it 10A and the yeti 400 can do 14-29V, up to 10A (120W max). so you're safe. with the yeti 150 I am allowed 14-29V, up to 5A (60W max). Here are my panel specs:
Related power: 60W
Voc: 21.6V
Vop: 18V
Short circuit current (Isc): 3.66A
Working current (Iop): 3.33A
Output Tolerance: ±3%
Temperate coefficient of Isc: (010+/- 0.01)%/ ℃
Temperate coefficient of Voc: - (0.38 +/-0.01)%/ ℃
Temperate coefficient of power Voc: -0.47%/℃
Temperature range: -40℃to +80℃
Frame: Heavy duty aluminum
Kind of connection: waterproof junction box, can be customized
Kind of glass and its thickness: Low Iron, high transparency tempered glass of 3.2mm
SLA Battery Voltage: 12V
When you connect panels in parallel, you add the amps. 3.66A + 3.66A = 7.32A, which exceeds your 5A max. I'm just trusting you for that spec. I haven't looked up the amp max on the 150.
Thanks for your reply. Yes, I copied straight from the box. This will not work unless I get panels with 2.5Amps each to total 5A. I will just keep the yeti 150/60W panel for my small stuff and it need be I'll get a 400 to hook up like yours. Once again, thanks for replying and have a great day!
TheTeksone
Do you think the yeti 400 would get ruined in the event of a solar flare.
I don't know. If your cell phone would get ruined, the Yeti 400 would probably get ruined too. I'm not sure there is any way around that, short of putting them both in a faraday cage.
I've read in many places that the Yeti 400 can't take more than an input of 120 watts. Does hooking up 200w only work because each 100 w panel doesn't actually draw the full amount from the sun? What happens if they each draw the full 100w? Would you screw up the Yeti or can you add in a charge controller to help with this?
+Abbey Loos 120 watts is marketing. Look at the amps and volts the charge controller can handle. Call goal zero and ask them the max amps and volts the charge controller will accept. Then choose solar panels under those limits.
also between the parallel branch connectors and your goal zero y connector, you have some short mc4 extensions, where did you get them as I cannot find any such short extensions
+shyanne lundahl everyone asks about these. I made them myself to reverse the panel MC4 genders.
Did that cable that connects into the yeti which connects to the panels (not the MC4) come with the yeti? If not, where could it be ordered?
+Alex Mena no. It came from the goal zero website. Pretty sure I included a link in the description of the video.
Thanks for doing this video, I'm new to solar power and was beginning to think the Yeti would only work with Goal Zero's expensive panels!
Would you recommend two of the Renology 100w panels with the Yeti 400 as a compete system to use every day to charge 2 macbook pros, and a few low power usage things like portable DVD player, LED lights, ipod, phone, small stereo etc?
I'm finding this all a bit confusing, as Goal Zero say a maximum of 120w input in their information, but you and others are saying that more than that in panels is fine, and I just want to get enough panels to charge it to 100% on a winter day, but I don't want to risk wrecking the Yeti by overloading it.
When I go to Amazon and it says the 100w panel is 12 volts, does this mean that two of them linked together is 24 volts?
+The Nourishing Hearthfire I find it extremely confusing too. Don't worry. It's confusing because it's an incredibly complex subject.
You could use a system like that to charge macbooks in the summer, on sunny days, during the day. However, you won't have much battery for night use or cloudy day use, and it probably won't work well in the winter, as I've learned this winter with my Yeti 400. Winter days are way more frequently overcast than summer days, and while they're overcast they deliver even less power to the panels than overcast summer days.
My 13" macbook pro can only charge once on the Yeti 400 battery before it's down to about 60%. You don't want to drain an AGM battery more than 50%. Really, you don't want to drain them less than 20% for max longevity. So that 400wh on the Yeti 400 is really 200wh at best. It's a marketing trick.
You could look at the Yeti 1250 (link in the description above). It would give you about 600wh of usable battery power. You could charge both macbooks one and a half times with that before needing to recharge the Yeti. Still not a lot of battery backup though.
If you don't need to be portable, building your own Lead Acid battery bank is the easiest solution. Decide how many amp hours of power you need, then build a battery bank using AGM or Wet Lead Acid batteries to meet that need. Add a charge controller, add solar modules, add an inverter, add all the necessary fusing etc.
I'm not particularly fond of lead acid batteries though. They're easy to use, cheap, and readily available (everything uses lead acid: fork lifts, cars, golf carts, etc, so the supply is there). However, they have a really short cycle life. Read this for a comparison between lead acid and lithium batteries: www.victronenergy.com/blog/2015/03/30/batteries-lithium-ion-vs-agm/
If you do need to be portable, or you just want your batteries to last longer than 3 years, going with the more expensive but much lighter weight and longer lasting LifePO4 battery chemistry is probably the best solution, but you need to know a LOT about how they operate before you go this route, or have someone who knows what they're doing build the system for you.
Regarding solar panel voltage: When a seller says a panel is 12V, they mean it's appropriate for charging 12V batteries. The actual panel voltage can be much higher than that. On the amazon page, you'll see specs for the panel like this:
Optimum Operating Voltage (Vmp): 18.9V
Optimum Operating Current (Imp): 5.29A
Open-Circuit Voltage (Voc): 22.5V
Short-Circuit Current (Isc): 5.75A
You have the choice to combine the panels in series or in parallel. If you combine in series, it adds the voltage. If you do it in parallel, it adds the amperage. Do some googling about this to learn more.
+createthis Thank you! I feel a lot more informed about it after reading your comment.
How do you figure out how many amp hours you need in batteries? Is there any simple way to work out from the KWh I use in a day how many amp hours of storage I need? I was thinking of using nickel iron batteries for the system once we've built the house, which I've heard can be drained 100% without problems.
+The Nourishing Hearthfire Nickle iron is extremely long lasting, but also very inefficient. You'll put in way more energy than you get out. Lithium is the opposite. It's extremely charge efficient. Just something to think about. This looks like a pretty good calculator btw: rimstar.org/renewnrg/sizing_select_batteries_for_off_grid_solar_system.htm
I just bought the yeti 400 and I was wondering, is there another unit that is just as easy to use, roughly same price ($350), but better than goal zero? I like the GZ because you don't have to piece it all together with controllers, bat banks etc. just plug and play simple, but I keep hearing mention of the fact that it's AGM there are limitations. What is the alternative? Thanks!
+Mark Saenz I think building your own is the only real alternative, unless something just hit the market I'm unaware of. Agm is heavy and needs to be topped off regularly, but otherwise it's fine.
Man, this is an awesome video! Very helpful! I'm having some issues with my device. I have a 100 watt panel reading at 18.9 volts in direct sunlight. However, my Yeti is only showing 28 Watts of input. Any idea of what it could be? If you have any ideas, let me know. Thanks!
+Jeff Lombardi is the Yeti fully charged? It won't show a full 70 watts or whatever of input if the battery is full due to the stadium effect.
Hey! Thanks for the quick response. I'll try it out again tomorrow, but I started off at 12.2 volts so around 60%. When the sun came down, I plugged the AC charger into the wall and it immediately was charging at 68 watts (which is the max I think for the AC adapter). I was really disappointed with that charging rate. I am not familiar with the stadium effect, but I'm assuming the input gets reduced since the battery is reaching its capacity? Thanks again for all of the info!
+Jeff Lombardi that doesn't sound right. If the panel in direct sunlight isn't putting in the same power as the ac charger something is wrong. I'd inspect the wiring for loose connections and shorts. Make sure the panel isn't partially shaded and the cells and clean. If the problem persists, consider calling renogy for support and/or returning the panel.
Thanks again! Subscribed! I only measured Volts, which seemed right in line, but should I be measuring the amperage to assure it's putting out 5 amps? Panel was in direct line and clean as a whistle. I was measuring this from the MC4 connectors off the panel and was putting out those volts. The only things I can think of is it's not putting out 5 amps, the mc4 to 8mm cable is bad or potentially that my charge controller is not operating properly.
+Jeff Lombardi I don't think measuring the volts or amps of the panel in an open circuit tells you much. It tells you there is electricity available, but that's about it. My understanding is that when the panel is connected to the Yeti the voltage will be dragged down to the yeti's battery voltage, so that 18 volts ends up as 12 volts or so. If you can measure the amps using an inductive clamp while the Yeti is attached to the panel then you can verify the wattage reported by the Yeti is correct. That may be worth doing if you have the equipment. However, I think the chance that it's the meter on the Yeti is pretty low as it reports the correct input wattage for the wall ac. What may be worthwhile is using the meter to measure resistance in the PV cables. If you have high resistance in those cables it could mean a bad crimp.
what connectors do i need to connect a 50 watt renogy solar panel to my Goal Zero Yeti 150. Pls reply as soon as possible. Thanks!
+James Mighty you need the Y MC4 adapter. I think I linked it in the description of the video
With the goal zero panel can I use different solar generator ? Like chafon
If I have a Yeti 400 wired to an additional battery via an anderson cable, will the solar panel charge both equally at the same time?
As long as the batteries are equal capacity, yes.
Where did you get that female to female connector? It goes between the solar panels and the Goal Zero Y-cable. It looks like it is about 6-8 inches long. Did you make it?
Yes, I made it using the techniques and tools in this video: th-cam.com/video/0tWaQlRrxxc/w-d-xo.html
Some of the solar panels I own have a male MC4 end on the positive wire. Others have a female MC4 on the positive wire. These adapters help me iron out those discrepancies.
Perfect, I just watched the video and have ordered all the necessary parts. thanks!
Have you considered adding an external battery to each of the Anderson connections that are located on both sides of your yeti 400? I understand that it will increase the run time but doesn't increase the wattage output.
I built a much larger system years ago. This particular device is no longer in production. It was chainable, according to the product page, but I never tried it.
Hi I am planning to get a 1 100 watt mono crystalline panel for my yeti 400 what do I need for this set is it going to burn my yeti just making sure
Make sure the panel's Voc (volts open circuit) and max amps are within the capabilities of the yeti's charge controller. That's all you need to know.
can I hook up my Harbor Freight solar panels to the Goal Zero 400?
+Sue Moore yes. You'd have to buy or make an adapter though. I don't remember what the harbor freight panel connector is called (I have a hf 15w panel laying around the house unused).
Can you hook up twp 100 watt solar panels to the yeti 400 or not. I am without power and need to use the item to run my computer and wireless hotspot which has an ac connection. Also on the y connector that is constantly out of stock, what did you mean by a reverse polarity one. Amazon is out of this item. Do you have any in stock?
I'm a little confused by this question. You can use two 100 watt panels with a Yeti 400. I do it in the video right in front of you and I explain how it's done. Did you watch the video?
I don't sell the Y connectors, unfortunately. You can DIY your own by buying one of the other 8mm goal zero adapters (car charger for example) and adapting MC4 connectors to it (either cut off the end and solder/crimp, or make a car charger to MC4 adapter. I have a video about how to DIY MC4 cables here: th-cam.com/video/0tWaQlRrxxc/w-d-xo.html
If you need power quickly and don't want to make your own Y connector, you might consider buying Goal Zero solar panels (more expensive): [affiliate] amzn.to/2gV0LMp
Or an efficient gas generator: [affiliate] amzn.to/2tBy4Km
hey bud, can you tell me which pieces I need to hook up that glass panel solar panel to the goal zero 400. thanks
Check the description below the video for a link to the "MC4 to 8mm Goal Zero Y cable".
+createthis Ahhh. This answers my question. Thanks! Great video!!!
I have a yeti 400 and tried to use a non goal zero panel using the goal zero mc4 to 8mm cable, every time I install the panel nothing happens or if in parallel to a goal zero 20w (using the goal zero 4 to 1 8mm lead) normal the blue light goes out as soon as this connects, I believe it should be ok but not sure why it won’t work? Any ideas-
Pmax -20w
Vpm - 2.81
Ipm - 7.10a
Voc -3.60v
Isc - 7.80
Thanks for any help anyone might be able to give.
Alan Sumner good to know that ! I will go check thanks
Alan Sumner yes I did try that but it wasn’t working in full sun .
How were you able to connect Renergy's 100w panel? I thought Goalzero's connectors were proprietary?
They are, but Goal Zero makes an 8mm to MC4 adapter cable. See link in description of video, above (click "show more").
@createthis does the 200watt solar panel fry the charge controller of yeti 400? thanks
+Gabriel Sibala nope. Sure doesn't.
+createthis if i have 1 250watt solar panel and ill use it to charge the yeti 400, will it work or too much? thanks fpr the reply. note: just one 250 watt solar panel.
Hi there love your video great energy! I have one small question, is it possible to to connect one 160 w solar panel 12.5A from inovtech to the Yeti 400? Since goal zero advise a max of 120 w for 10A? Thanks :)
no. don't exceed an amperage or voltage rating. bad idea.
Great video, but one missing piece of data: What is your approximate latitude? :)
35.024398
Thanks, though I'm amused at the decimal places in an approximation. :-) You get a bit more insolation per day than I do at my latitude (around 40).
winter sucks too. I didn't realize how much it sucks when I made this video. Putting the panels on the roof helped a bit, but ultimately I needed more panels and more battery if I wanted to use solar during the winter.
how long will it take to charge the yet I from 30% to 100%
+Gabez you shouldn't ever drain it below 50% if you want the battery to last. The recharge time depends on the input wattage. If you charge at 100 watts, it'll take about two and a half hours to recharge from 50% to 100%.
+createthis thank you so much , great video btw .
Wait you don't have to use goal zero solar panels?
+520wsd You sure don't! You can use any panel under 29V with a total wattage up to or under 200W.
+createthis thanks again if I may ask one more question. I have a renogy 100watt solar suitcase it has a built in pwm charge controller will it work with this unit?
+520wsd hmmm. I'm not sure. It will work if you bypass the built-in charge controller. It might work with the charge controller, but then you're using two charge controllers inline and I'm not sure if that will cause problems.
+createthis Ic, thanks for the reply happy new year!
+520wsd you too!
Thanks for your answer! :-(
Any updates?
Well, this happened a while back: th-cam.com/video/P8Lc2FNmVBw/w-d-xo.html
I've been using that system ever since.
Does The 100Watt Plug Right Into The Yeti? Or Do You Need An Adaptor ?
+Far From Populated You need the MC4 to 8mm Goal Zero Y cable. See link in description above.
+createthis Ok Thank You Very Much!
The 40w panel looks like it is made from cutoffs.
Yeah, I always assumed that was for voltage purposes or something. Always thought it was a bit weird.
Love the videos, but I am on the dumber side when it has to do with electronics... I watched all your yeti videos because I just got one and wanted to get bigger solar panels that weren't costing an arm and a leg going thru GZ... I seen that you blew your inverter, would that have anything to do with using the two 100w panels? Or was that just from the water? Maybe the solar panels have nothing to do with the inverter idk lol. I just don't want to blow it up when I buy the two 100w panels
+Zachary Anaya it was 100% the water
createthis One more question. The manual says it can take 120w charging with solar panels, are you able to go above that because you have them hooked up parallel? If that's it then would it be true that you can have as many watts coming in as long as you don't go over the 29 volts?
+Zachary Anaya the 120w thing is marketing speak. Keep the volts and amps under what the hardware is capable of inputting and you'll be fine.
Nice video
Wanna sell me one of those 100 watt panels?
HI there great video! I am a solar newbie, and this helped me a lot! Currently I am looking to power a yeti 400 like you, and wanted to know if i do the same setup you have in the video, but with 2 100w Renogy angels in parallel, that it would work just like the 2 panels in your video. Thanks for the help!
one of my panels in the video is a 100w renogy panel, so yes, as long as the voltage and amperage specs are the same, it will work.
Thanks so much for the response. Yes I would be using the one you have in the video x2. Running in Parallel is the key though? Gotta get that 120w of juice!!
Sorry one more question for you, noticed you have some type of intermediate connector in-between the goal zero 8mm to mc4 connector and the connector of the solar panel. 17.24 into video. Is that part needed? Is it possibly the RENOGY® 9 inches adapter kit? here is link- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DGXVO80/ref=s9_al_bw_g23_i1
Thanks again for the help, and time! Just want to make sure i get the right stuff based on the polarities being right
Correct, they must be run in parallel.
The connector at 17:24 is a Parallel MC4 Branch Connector. There is a link above in the video description.
Great vid thanks! Quick question. What is the small connector piece (2 pieces, one on each cable) that is located BETWEEN the Goal Zero MC4 to 8mm Goal Zero Y cable, and the Parallel MC4 Branch Connectors ? I'm doing the same hookup and could really use your expertise. If you have an affiliate link for whatever product those connectors are, I'll use it. I already bought a bunch of stuff using your affiliate link-I enjoy your vids with your son! It LOOKS like some kind of Mc4 connector, but I don't know...and if it is, how did you get that small 3" looking wire attached to it? Did you cut it and make this section yourself? I'm a solar newby. THANK you!!
They are gender reversing adapters. Some of my adapters and panels came with swapped polarity MC4 ends. I wasn't 100% sure at the time which end went with which polarity (still not sure, really), so I made adapters rather than cutting and modifying the original cables. I made them myself using MC4 ends and PV cable. I have a video about making MC4 cables here: th-cam.com/video/0tWaQlRrxxc/w-d-xo.html As always, for your convenience, tools and materials are listed in the description.
Thanks for the quick reply. That's awful that they sent all the defective swapped polarity stuff to you! Then again, if they didn't, people like me wouldn't have the pleasure of watching the vid's fixing their mistakes. I pray they don't send me the switched polarity stuff. I wouldn't even know how to identify if that happened, let alone be able to tackle it right now. I appreciate the response and links! Have an awesome day!
I recommend you invest in a multimeter if you don't already have one. Even with a cheap multimeter (harbor freight, for example) you can insert the probes into the MC4 connectors and see which end is positive and which is negative. Highly recommended for any DIY solar setup.
Thanks for the tip! I'm quite green with this stuff, but do have a wee knack - "where there's a will, there's a way." I find ways to rig stuff somehow. Now for hazards, well.....LOL. Fire extinguishers a must! LOL.
I found 14 multimeters on Harbor Freight. I have NO clue what to get. I don't want to bother you, yet any direction on choosing would be so appreciated. Never used one, no idea even how. (What's with everything not having directions these days). Would need good directions, foolproof shall we say. If there's an affiliate link to that, I'd use it also. If this is too much right now, I totally understand. Life is hectic, so no worries either way. Thanks so much Jessie!
www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=multimeter
No rush, no worries!
BTW, have you done any reviews on Powerfilm? ie: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JOOFG8O/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_30?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1VOUFSIGRIGBC
Best to you and your family! I'm placing orders this week and won't be in 'harass' mode once this is all finally taken care of for the month's festivities. :-)
considering you only need to read voltage, the $6 unit is probably fine: www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-90899.html Multimeters are like any other tool. Quality = $$$. I use a pro grade Fluke 87-V Digital Multimeter: amzn.to/2heYd8H but honestly the Fluke is super overkill if you just need to check voltage polarity.
Regarding powerfilm: I think it's obsolete tech. If you want an ultra portable 60W panel, use this folding panel: KINGSOLAR™ Highest Efficient 60W Foldable Solar Panel Portable Solar Charger Dual Output (USB Port + DC Output): amzn.to/2hbMLtX
Produce or push not draw or pull. :-)
Is that official electrical engineering terminology?
@@createthisdotcom I think it still may be slang, but it does refer to current direction. you can push current by providing a higher potential (voltage) to an object of a lower potential. Things that use current or power draw current. its a give and take relationship.
do you think a Yeti 400 and a 30W panel would be enough for simple things when camping?
+Daniel Duarte what are "simple things"? I took my yeti 400 and my 12v Engel mr040 fridge to the beach a couple of weeks ago. Powered it all with a 120w ultralight cloth folding solar panel.
I am most interested in running low power fan(s) in my van since the wife and are I sleeping in it. My biggest concern is keeping the van as cool as possible by circulating air.
so essentially letting the unit charge all day and run it over an 8 hour sleeping period at night. I don't have laptops and stuff and my camera battery holds a charge for a long time.
You'll need to figure out how many watts the fan draws. That's step one. Next, let's assume this is a 12v system.
You'll need to multiply fan wattage by the amount of time it will be running while there is no sun. This will be your minimum battery capacity.
For example, if it's a 30 watt fan (One of the user reviews on the MaxxAir 7000k on Amazon mentions 2.3 amps at 12v, so that's close to 30 watts) and you need it to run for 12 hours then 30 * 12 = 360wh. You'd need 360wh of usable battery capacity in that case. It gets more complicated because AGM batteries can only be used for 20-50% of their rated capacity if you want them to last any reasonable amount of time. So, if you only want to drain your battery 20%, you'd need to multiply 360wh * 5 = 1800wh AGM. (I use AGM here because you asked about the Yeti and it's AGM, but it's only 400wh)
That's the battery. For the solar panel, you probably need it to be able to return 360wh of charge to that battery every day, even if it's cloudy. If you ignore winter and only size this for summer, when it's hot, then you get a lot of daylight hours. You can use offgrid solar calculators to figure out how many panels you need. I used this one and put in 10.8kwh per month (360wh * 30 days) at 6 solar hours per day and 100% usage and it told me the minimum panel size was 60 watts: www.wholesalesolar.com/solar-information/start-here/offgrid-calculator
Personally, I'd triple or quadruple that 60 watt panel size. That way you can run the fan AND charge the batteries during the day, or just charge the battery when it's cloudy. I'd also design the system with a little extra space to double the battery size later. You'll probably find other uses for solar besides the fan and more power is always better.
In short, no, the Yeti 400 probably isn't big enough. However, it makes a great learner system if you just want to get your hands dirty with some solar.
BTW, check out my recent LifePO4 Solar Generator Build series: th-cam.com/play/PLdQ4o1tGX6XUuU_yPvQMpa5Qfp5jBAkzB.html
That's what I'm intending to use in my van for the fan and 12v refrigerator and whatever else I want to run. It's probably overkill, but I'm having fun with it, and hopefully that series takes some of the mystery out of LifePO4 solar for people. It's complicated, but doable DIY.
@Createthis DO you have an affiliate link for this: 120w ultralight cloth folding solar panel? I'll buy through it for the great vids youare putting out. Thanks!
bro u only suppose use 120w panel
+oliver biss sigh
What sign bro
I just answered this for someone else on the same day you asked. Check the comments.
createthis bro how many watts does it actually have it says 400 but people saying it's around 300watts
watts are an immediate measure of power. If you want to know how much capacity the battery has, you want to talk about watt hours, abbreviated "wh". The Yeti 400 has a 400wh AGM battery. However, the thing with AGM (and lead acid batteries in general) is that the more deeply you discharge it, the fewer cycles the battery will last. They call the discharge level DoD or Depth of Discharge. So if your DoD is 50%, you might expect somewhere around 300 cycles from the battery. If your DoD is higher than 50%, your battery won't last as long. So most people recommend a DoD of 20%. 20% of 400wh is just 80 wh! 50% of 400wh is 200wh. That's why you see different numbers. Also, keep in mind that the number of watts (not watt hours) the inverter can supply at any given point in time is different from the battery's wh rating.
5 year warranty you guys are living under a stone, its 25/5 year warranty on degredation not on physical failure/damaging/shortage etc from outside.
Can you seal the flat one on top of a van when you're traveling.
+Byron Johnson Yeah, I think people use a combination of velcro adhesive and bolts through the eyelets.
createthis Cool will given this a try,thanks this video gave me so much info, i haven't watched another youtuber on the subject since.