Hi Doug. You have been an absolute life and money saver. Purchased a 2000 R1100RTP (Ex-California Highway Patrol Bike) with 65K miles 3 months ago that needed work. LOVE THIS BIKE! However, I made the HUGE mistake of taking to my local BMW dealer the first time to have my ABS modular replaced at $100 an hour. I'm embarrassed to say what that cost me. Since then, thanks to your videos, I replaced my fuel pump and filter, brake lines, oil change, spark plugs, air filter, and repaired bad fuel readings on instrument gauge as well as the fuel empty light. My HES will be my next project since I just died on the side of the road yesterday. Thank goodness I was only 1/2 mile from home. The bike was a bit intimidating at first since I have never worked on motorcycles before, but now the more I work on it the more I want to work on it. Thank you very much for taking the time to make these videos. Going to need brakes soon. Any Videos available?
Hey I’m broke down 300 miles from home give or take a few miles and had to pay for a tow. I’m 43 and have been riding since 4 years old, I never would have figured this out without your video. Thanks so much!!!!
Doug, because of you I managed to replace the HALL sensor. You specifically mentioning the position of the wheel on the pully did it! Thank you so so much!
You don’t need the timing box. Once the ignition triggers the fuel pump turns on momentarily. Find the positive wire for fuel pump on the connector and hook up a trouble light to it. By rotating the timing plate while on tdc the positive fuel pump pin will get power when the he’s is in the firing position. Pretty easy. I got that info on adv rider.
This definitely works without a doubt! I’m getting horrible fuel mileage and it’s somewhat hard to start so I wanted to check timing on the HES and it was off I’d say little more than a 1/16 of an inch so we’ll see if that helps at all. Thank you for this info Frank Butaric!
Thank you for this video. I replaced my HES after watching you do yours. I really appreciate the time you took to do this step-by-step and clearly explain what you did.
FYI - Not common but perplexing - after installing and tensioning the new alternator belt I had a loud slap noise from the alternator. It turns out the upper nut can be tight on its bolt, but the bolt itself can be loose in the spacer it's located in (behind the alternator) leaving the alternator loose. Loosen top nut, tighten top bolt from behind (not difficult to access with the tank off), re-tension the belt as per instructions, and presto. Thanks to BMWMOA Oilhead forum wizards for this tip, which I never would have caught myself.
I bought a new HES sensor like yourself but was hoping not to have to make the timing tool.. Is there any other way to set the timing with a multimeter?
2 questions please: 1- Why did you remove the spark plugs ? 2- If I mark the position of the HES unit & reuse my old one (after I rebuild it) and place it back in the same exact position, do I still need to set the timing with the Gizmo light unit that you have ? I mean if I mark the position of the unit and place it back in the same exact location, why do I need to reset the timing ? Thank you.
This might be helpfull. 1. Disconnect and insulate the battery ground lead (IMPORTANT) 2. Remove the existing hall sensor (refer to BMW repair manual) 3. Install TDC pin to lock the flywheel to the clutch housing (EME Part # BMW-TDCpin) 4. Set the hall-effect timing position using a hall tester Part # EDL-MiniHT-R277 - LED must be triggered at TDC 12V LED can be used between orange wire and ground/brown wire. 5. Connect the battery ground lead 6. Switch on the ignition but do not start the engine 7. Open the throttle fully twice - this will synchronize the motronic control unit with the new hall sensor
I have a question. I know the ground wire to the battery is crucial to the electrical system. And disconnecting it during this procedure can help do what? To keep from shorting the system? Shorting the new Hall Effect Sensor? I did not disconnect my battery ground and have already installed the new sensor. So should I still disconnect the battery ground? Thank you for all your great help.
Thanks a lot fopr that video, I'm in the process to change my Hall effect sensonr and I come back and forth to the video when I can't get to the next step of the work... Hopefully I'll be successful soon and ready ro tide again !
Both LED lights (tdc and 180) are lit in the timing box when i connect it to the bike trying to set the timing. Lights wont go out no mattet what i do, but stay lit. What do i do wrong?
right, off to go do this now, don't have a timing-setting tool but i just tried on the bench and with a car battery and a voltmeter i can also correctly see when the hall sensor is giving a 1 or a 0 signal, it's a bit less graceful but it'll do.
Good idea to get this done as preventative. My 1997, 90k miles is disabled 1200 miles from home. Got no manual, got no tools, waiting a week for parts.
Sadly TH-cam has out-lived our motorcycles and Radio Shack. I'd like to get that PDF, but it is no long available on the Illinois BMW Riders website. Good video. Guess that's what I get for getting an old bike.
At 19:40 when he is 'pulling' something with the center allen head on baseplate? Not clear what he is doing. Wiggling the plate CW or CCW? Anyone have a little more info?
I have some intermittent spark to plugs but no spray from injectors. Injectors are ok and spray with electrical override. Do you think this a hall sensor problem?
Hello, good morning, I have a BMW 1200GS motorcycle, it does not start, the fuel pump does not enter and there is no spark in the spark plugs. My question could be a problem because the keys could have been deprogrammed and what else can I check? Greetings
Hi Doug.Fabulous instruction for Hes replacement.Correct me if I'm wrong but you mentioned the TDC light on your timing box should go off then tighten down. Your TDC light remained on. Little confused and need all the help I can get.Philip (Ireland).
I had a no fuel pump (after initial key on prime) and no spark at the plug... pulled the tank on 2000 R1100RT and "bingo" melted up wires on the connector side... Hope shipping from Romania does not take too long (I recalled having to do this same thing on my 1996 R1100RS - have not had an issue since (and I ride REGULARLY in wet weather)). (I got the waterproof version last time and again this time for piece of mind).
I have replaced several HES and have never done anything but take the old one out and put in the new one. Never gone to TDC. Never locked the crank, and never had an issue with timing. What am I doing right?
Just taking a gamble on my answer... You are just doing but not validating that Motronic is actually getting the right signals. If your wire harness was damaged (where you connect the hall sensor to) instead of the Hall sensor you would never know what signal is not getting there. Also I noticed that the aftermarket HES that did not have much adjusting to do. The original does have some pace to slide and move. I assume that the aftermarket could be installed without testing and get away with it.
I read on another site/vid that it is possible, too. One point a commenter made was, "How could they do this delicate adjustment at factory assembly? Wouldn't they want to just bolt that sensor into the right spot, instead of carefully tilting it left and right to get an exact point? Not saying anyone is wrong, just some things need to be explained more to make sense.
Doug, what diameter is that U-bolt you used to lock in the crank? I heard you say its a 4" bolt but didn't get the dia. to know what fits in the hole. Thanks
Just installed a new hall sensor plate on my single spark 1150 and made up a timing box of the same design. Initially I scribed the location of the old plate and installed new to those marks. It did fire up initially and ran on idle and revved it in neutral with no mishaps and switched engine off thinking to myself, great job. Trouble is and still in the garage, it won’t fire up again. So, regarding NOT using the ‘timing box’, it is fair to say that just adjusting the plate from original plate marks even 1mm either side makes a big difference in starting issues? I will edit this reply if the timing box with plate adjustment makes a difference to my bike starting. Otherwise my problems are elsewhere. My plugs are sooting up all the time.
Hello, I can not turn on the motorcycle. In my bmw r1100rt the maximum oil temperature and 1st gear (but dispay neutral "N")is displayed after turning the key on the FID. The starter is spinning, but the fuel pump does not turn on. What could be the reason? I heard from a mechanic friend that it could be a hall sensor or prevent rotor under v-belt pulley (change possision "tongue")?? Have you any idea ?
Good day can anyone perhaps help me with where the various colour wires connect to the 3 wires comming from the pickup points , mine was so bad coroded at the point where they connect that it just disintegrated when i cut open the wires
Hello, It was very helpful for me,however I''d like to ask you ,if I don't have the sensor device at all, can I just mark, at what position is the old plat, and then locate the new one, exactly on the same position.what do you think ? by the way, is your BMW starts ? Best Regards.
Hi Doug, I too built the Hager HES setting box. In his instructions, he says to rotate the HES baseplate until the LED just goes out (assuming the LED's are normally on). Your unit seem to function just the opposite (LED's normally off). Confusing.
It really doesn't matter if it's the opposite or not as you are looking for the tipping point of where it goes on to off or off to on. That sweet spot is the correct position.
Doug, your left moves all over the place. You should rest the lift and set it down onto the safety bar and save your ram. It also stops all that movement. Was getting sea sick from that.. Other then that TY for some really good information and how to... Thats one pain in the but... A must change ASAP... TY
Lankster Price Yeah, I usually have the bar in, but I kept changing height to get camera angle and what not so I didn't bother putting it back in each time. Sorry for the rough seas...
Douglas Rost Its all good. I know how much time you must put in just to do a video, so we take a bit of a sea trip with you now and then... But still thumbs up for all your helpful input, hours of video work and time... Keep them videos coming.
Your the man. I just purchased my BMW yesterday with 69K on it. When the truck got there it would not start. Now I don't know if it is the HES or not but this video was done like a pro. I appreciate it. I am hoping it is that the kick stand was down or something easy. But if not and it is the HES I am now prepared to do it. I got this bike used from a JERK in KY. Took me 2 weeks for him to release the bike for me. Had a transport company pick up since it was 375 miles from home and did not know if it would run good enough to make it home. Now waiting for it's arrival. You don't know anyone who has side mirrors for these bike and a right hand saddle bag. I am missing those off my bike I bought. I see the mirrors on ebay for like 160.00 and I already ordered new oil and air filter,spark plugs and extra keys for it. Any tips on the bike would be helpful. I saw a video where the windscreen moved. Do all of them have this feature? Thanks for such a great video. May get some help doing this from a certified mechanic to watch over my shoulder. But I thought you did a great job on it. Looks like a lot but not scared of a little work. Thank.
Dang, radio shacks are all closing up . I’m wanting to build a test tool . Question: that box all parts were put into, where did you get it ? Thanks for your videos 👍🏽 Joe , Johnson City Texas
Has anyone else had this problem? I have the engine locked at top dead centre and have the black box attached but there is not enough adjustment on the HES plate to make the light go on and off !!
@illinoisBMWriders.... thanks for your informative videos... a simple question, so as to get the best fit, what was the diameter of your cut down U bolt engine lock please.. ? some silly prices on Ebay for a bit of bar !!! - It did occur to me that it would be useful to compile a list of known components liable to fail over a period of time... then consideration can be given to having a spare on hand or to replace before failure...Thanks again...
Miles Dugmore The bolt is 8.3mm in diam, I got it at Ace Hardware and I believe it is their 4" threaded U-bolt, and I just hacked off one side to get to the center portion
Douglas Rost Hi, Thanks for the info... I am in NZ so I don't have the same access to parts as you do.. but I will machine it out of a piece of bar... :-)
It is hard to follow your video, it doesn't show which side of the bike you're working on when you're finding top dead center especially for someone who never done this before on this bike. I would mostly have to guess where you are or what you're working on. Many times your hands or shoulders are in the way & I can't see what needs to be done. Also is removing the gas tank necessary ?? Thank you.
Hello. Great video. It would be nice, difficult I know, to show how you adjust the timing of your hall sensor. And also, can you tell us what and why this sensor brakes down ? Is it a wiring problem or are the magnets loosing their strength ? Is there a way to check the sensor on faulths once its out ?
+Pieter Puk Puk The unit breaks down from faulty wiring housing. Being so close to the engine, the sheathing gets brittle, cracks, shorts, allows moisture in, and then decides to fail when it wants to. If you are out on the road and it goes bad, most likely moisture is the reason and you should do what you can to dry it out and then maybe it will work enough to get you home.
Will be replacing mine on a 1997 with 90k miles on it. My cycle still runs, but it is exhibiting strange symptoms. A BMW tech told me this is the best place to look. My cycle runs pretty good around town. It started breaking down on long trips. Right at 4200 rpms, it would start misfiring, losing power, and coughing. Felt alot like fuel line clogged. But only at 4200. Strange part, the symptoms cleared up when I climbed up to 4600 rpm. Eventually, (hours of riding) and it gets worse. Now it is misfiring from 4k up to 5k. Low rpm, 1/2/3 gear still engine runs good! Anyway, I'm relpacing this timing unit because it seems a good start. It may not work. If anyone has another idea, please comment.
Redmenace96- Please post a follow up report after you change the timing unit. I ride a 2000 R1100R and have the same experience you describe regarding engine performance. My engine idles well, runs smooth from 1st through 5th gears but only up to 3800-3900 rpm. Once I push the rpm's into the 4000 range I get an unhealthy vibration and diminished throttle response/ loss of power type situation. I'm not misfiring or coughing though. I don't dare throttle into the 4000 range or beyond for fear of damaging something. Thanks in advance. Jeff
@@jeffreykinsella4563 Do you belong to BMW MOA? I posted much longer descriptions of my problem in the Oilhead Forum. Turns out the ignition system was just a good guess by some old-timers. Cycle ran the same after total rebuild. My final solution was 02 sensor, and air-box temp sensor. My ECU was responding poorly to air/temp/oxygen information. Please note, my symptoms cleared up above 5000rpm. Your situation may be different.
+Seb0046 At this point you are gambling and it won't be a matter of if but of when. Consider the type of riding you do, distance or local, and will it be a big deal when you break down.
+illinoisBMWriders Thanks Doug. I will go ahead and buy a new sensor and will keep the current as a backup. Probably will be consulting this video a lot along the process. Now I need to learn how to make that tester :) Thanks for the great vids they are really helpful.
+Seb0046 i finally got to replace the sensor. 72000 miles and had not failed but will go on a long trip now and wanted to be as safe as possible. I could build the tester as well. Thanks for the vid it helped a lot.
PLEASE PLEASE HELP YOU. MY MOTOR DAY DAYS FOR TWO, AND THERE IS A SINGLE DO NOT GAS ONLY TO GAS ONLY. WHEN I LEAVE THAT TWO TWO, OPET WORKS. ALL I WAITED, FUEL PUMP, FILTER, BOMBIN, FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR. KNOW I CAN HELP YOU THERE CAN BE
Thanks for this video, but I'll tell ya what...once I fix this I'm selling this POS GS and will never own another BMW again. I got this bike to go on adventures and with all the problems I've had with it I'm to scared to take it more then 100 miles from home. I don't know how you guys do this...I'm going back to well made Japanese bikes that actually run.
Sorry to hear mate. It has a few niggles (all well documented) but once you sort them out you will never have any issues. Show me a bike that can do 250000 km on any terrain without missing a beat?
cant beat japanese bikes owning them forever and now owning r1100gs at 80k im replacing everything, and my s1kr, different design. japanese built military quality and very simple. but r1100s you need to be the mechanic of it and once this sensor replaced with fuel components especially fuel regulator it should be fine
@@zoeler1 if it had 250000 KM on it you wouldn't hear a complaint from me...it's got 40,000 miles on it and left me stranded 3 times. I just replaced it this month with a 2022 KLR. I'll never do BMW again. That bike burned me to bad.
@@CoreyBrass what were the issues you were having just curious. I'm a Kawi die hard but the KLR has a crappy carburetor, if it stalls mid nowhere let it sit it will start again, the carbs flood themselves. Xt650L how ever is da DOG, I dont like single cylinder, had my times w them can't take the sound
@@mmm4638 I've done 2 fuel pumps on it. This hull sensor. I had an issue with the rear axle that I still sent understand. I was on I-5 and all the sudden I thought my tusk box cam loose I felt the bike wiggle. My buddy who was behind me told me it wasn't the box but my rear tire was wiggling. That somehow had something to so with the axle but I still don't understand it. ABS stopped working....but other then that great bike. 🤣
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi Doug. You have been an absolute life and money saver. Purchased a 2000 R1100RTP (Ex-California Highway Patrol Bike) with 65K miles 3 months ago that needed work. LOVE THIS BIKE! However, I made the HUGE mistake of taking to my local BMW dealer the first time to have my ABS modular replaced at $100 an hour. I'm embarrassed to say what that cost me. Since then, thanks to your videos, I replaced my fuel pump and filter, brake lines, oil change, spark plugs, air filter, and repaired bad fuel readings on instrument gauge as well as the fuel empty light. My HES will be my next project since I just died on the side of the road yesterday. Thank goodness I was only 1/2 mile from home. The bike was a bit intimidating at first since I have never worked on motorcycles before, but now the more I work on it the more I want to work on it. Thank you very much for taking the time to make these videos. Going to need brakes soon. Any Videos available?
7 years later...I still watch you video when a "new" Oilhead enters my stable. They all have bad HES wires.
Hey I’m broke down 300 miles from home give or take a few miles and had to pay for a tow.
I’m 43 and have been riding since 4 years old, I never would have figured this out without your video.
Thanks so much!!!!
Doug, because of you I managed to replace the HALL sensor. You specifically mentioning the position of the wheel on the pully did it! Thank you so so much!
I know Im pretty off topic but does anyone know of a good place to stream newly released movies online ?
@London Sonny Try FlixZone. Just search on google for it :)
@Judson Brian Yup, been watching on flixzone for since march myself :D
@Judson Brian thanks, I signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there :D Appreciate it !!
@London Sonny happy to help xD
You don’t need the timing box. Once the ignition triggers the fuel pump turns on momentarily. Find the positive wire for fuel pump on the connector and hook up a trouble light to it. By rotating the timing plate while on tdc the positive fuel pump pin will get power when the he’s is in the firing position. Pretty easy. I got that info on adv rider.
This definitely works without a doubt! I’m getting horrible fuel mileage and it’s somewhat hard to start so I wanted to check timing on the HES and it was off I’d say little more than a 1/16 of an inch so we’ll see if that helps at all. Thank you for this info Frank Butaric!
Dose this work for the 1100?
trouble light you mean fuse light tester? thanks
Thanks Frank. It is 2022 and that PDF is no longer available on the link he provided above. Sad, but true. This is good information. Thanks again.
it also turn when you put back the side stand.
Thank you for this video. I replaced my HES after watching you do yours. I really appreciate the time you took to do this step-by-step and clearly explain what you did.
FYI - Not common but perplexing - after installing and tensioning the new alternator belt I had a loud slap noise from the alternator. It turns out the upper nut can be tight on its bolt, but the bolt itself can be loose in the spacer it's located in (behind the alternator) leaving the alternator loose. Loosen top nut, tighten top bolt from behind (not difficult to access with the tank off), re-tension the belt as per instructions, and presto. Thanks to BMWMOA Oilhead forum wizards for this tip, which I never would have caught myself.
Thank you very much. Installed a new hall sensor on my ‘93 R1100RS last weekend and with your help it was easy and fun to do!
Don't know if you are still monitoring this page, but as with your ABS rebuild, your information helped me do this job. Thanks.
I bought a new HES sensor like yourself but was hoping not to have to make the timing tool.. Is there any other way to set the timing with a multimeter?
2 questions please:
1- Why did you remove the spark plugs ?
2- If I mark the position of the HES unit & reuse my old one (after I rebuild it) and place it back in the same exact position, do I still need to set the timing with the Gizmo light unit that you have ?
I mean if I mark the position of the unit and place it back in the same exact location, why do I need to reset the timing ?
Thank you.
Great video Doug! Only wish that you had included the moment when you started the bike! That was the crowning touch after all that work.
Thanks for the link! I appreciate your efforts to educate owners who wish to maintain their bike themselves.
This might be helpfull. 1. Disconnect and insulate the battery ground lead (IMPORTANT)
2. Remove the existing hall sensor (refer to BMW repair manual)
3. Install TDC pin to lock the flywheel to the clutch housing (EME Part # BMW-TDCpin)
4. Set the hall-effect timing position using a hall tester Part # EDL-MiniHT-R277 - LED must be triggered at TDC
12V LED can be used between orange wire and ground/brown wire.
5. Connect the battery ground lead
6. Switch on the ignition but do not start the engine
7. Open the throttle fully twice - this will synchronize the motronic control unit with the new hall sensor
I have a question. I know the ground wire to the battery is crucial to the electrical system. And disconnecting it during this procedure can help do what? To keep from shorting the system? Shorting the new Hall Effect Sensor?
I did not disconnect my battery ground and have already installed the new sensor. So should I still disconnect the battery ground? Thank you for all your great help.
Thanks a lot fopr that video, I'm in the process to change my Hall effect sensonr and I come back and forth to the video when I can't get to the next step of the work... Hopefully I'll be successful soon and ready ro tide again !
Both LED lights (tdc and 180) are lit in the timing box when i connect it to the bike trying to set the timing. Lights wont go out no mattet what i do, but stay lit. What do i do wrong?
right, off to go do this now, don't have a timing-setting tool but i just tried on the bench and with a car battery and a voltmeter i can also correctly see when the hall sensor is giving a 1 or a 0 signal, it's a bit less graceful but it'll do.
Good idea to get this done as preventative. My 1997, 90k miles is disabled 1200 miles from home. Got no manual, got no tools, waiting a week for parts.
Hi doug, i like your video but there is one question.
The timing box has 4 wires wich i have to connect to the motor but wich one to wich one ?????
Thanks for the video. May I ask, would it be difficult to rewire the HES so as to avoid having to buy a new one?
although I'm many years behind here...I love the "Tupperware" term! classic! thanks for sharing!
Your videos are invaluable to me. Thanks for showing us how to work on BMW's !!!
Sadly TH-cam has out-lived our motorcycles and Radio Shack. I'd like to get that PDF, but it is no long available on the Illinois BMW Riders website. Good video. Guess that's what I get for getting an old bike.
Thanks for this. I have an R 1200C and needed to check the timing. Good primer.
At 19:40 when he is 'pulling' something with the center allen head on baseplate? Not clear what he is doing. Wiggling the plate CW or CCW? Anyone have a little more info?
Your link for the test box build instructions does not work. Can you update?
Michel Legault It worked for me
I have some intermittent spark to plugs but no spray from injectors. Injectors are ok and spray with electrical override. Do you think this a hall sensor problem?
Yes. It is what times the pulses. If you have a GS 911 tool you can check if the hall is working. You may also have a bad computer
Hi would you please share the sensor position test box link with me, can't seem to find this
Hello, good morning, I have a BMW 1200GS motorcycle, it does not start, the fuel pump does not enter and there is no spark in the spark plugs. My question could be a problem because the keys could have been deprogrammed and what else can I check? Greetings
Hi Doug.Fabulous instruction for Hes replacement.Correct me if I'm wrong but you mentioned the TDC light on your timing box should go off then tighten down. Your TDC light remained on. Little confused and need all the help I can get.Philip (Ireland).
+Philip Mccarthy Hey Philip, you are actually looking for the tipping point, where it flicks from off to on, or on to off.
I had a no fuel pump (after initial key on prime) and no spark at the plug... pulled the tank on 2000 R1100RT and "bingo" melted up wires on the connector side... Hope shipping from Romania does not take too long (I recalled having to do this same thing on my 1996 R1100RS - have not had an issue since (and I ride REGULARLY in wet weather)). (I got the waterproof version last time and again this time for piece of mind).
Hey was wondering if you have the man’s info that rewires those sensors? Thanks
I have replaced several HES and have never done anything but take the old one out and put in the new one. Never gone to TDC. Never locked the crank, and never had an issue with timing. What am I doing right?
Just taking a gamble on my answer... You are just doing but not validating that Motronic is actually getting the right signals. If your wire harness was damaged (where you connect the hall sensor to) instead of the Hall sensor you would never know what signal is not getting there. Also I noticed that the aftermarket HES that did not have much adjusting to do. The original does have some pace to slide and move. I assume that the aftermarket could be installed without testing and get away with it.
I read on another site/vid that it is possible, too. One point a commenter made was, "How could they do this delicate adjustment at factory assembly? Wouldn't they want to just bolt that sensor into the right spot, instead of carefully tilting it left and right to get an exact point? Not saying anyone is wrong, just some things need to be explained more to make sense.
Good video, don't suppose you know of a video or forum where someone has replaced the front timing chain behind the HES?
Doug, what diameter is that U-bolt you used to lock in the crank? I heard you say its a 4" bolt but didn't get the dia. to know what fits in the hole. Thanks
5mm
Just installed a new hall sensor plate on my single spark 1150 and made up a timing box of the same design. Initially I scribed the location of the old plate and installed new to those marks.
It did fire up initially and ran on idle and revved it in neutral with no mishaps and switched engine off thinking to myself, great job.
Trouble is and still in the garage, it won’t fire up again.
So, regarding NOT using the ‘timing box’, it is fair to say that just adjusting the plate from original plate marks even 1mm either side makes a big difference in starting issues?
I will edit this reply if the timing box with plate adjustment makes a difference to my bike starting.
Otherwise my problems are elsewhere.
My plugs are sooting up all the time.
You may want to change out the O2 sensor
@Doug, Doug here. Doing this to my 1997 R1100 RT. What is the OT you see through the left side viewport?
0 top degree mark
Thanks for the video. Now I have an appreciation of what's involved.
Where did you buy the hall sensor for the bmw r850?
Perhaps you have a video dealing with the K1100 16 valve engine Hall Effect sensor/timing?
Hello,
I can not turn on the motorcycle. In my bmw r1100rt the maximum oil temperature and 1st gear (but dispay neutral "N")is displayed after turning the key on the FID. The starter is spinning, but the fuel pump does not turn on.
What could be the reason?
I heard from a mechanic friend that it could be a hall sensor or prevent rotor under v-belt pulley (change possision "tongue")??
Have you any idea ?
Hi there I did it for my first time and everything worked perfect thank you so much
Hi Doug. You are great! Could you explain how your "bug" works to phase the Hall sensor? Thanks. Luciano from Siena (Italy)
Good day can anyone perhaps help me with where the various colour wires connect to the 3 wires comming from the pickup points , mine was so bad coroded at the point where they connect that it just disintegrated when i cut open the wires
sir please help. If I don't have this tester, how else can I test it? (for alignment)
I can send you instructions on how to make it. send me an email from kirksmotorrad.com
hi Doug . was there a link showing how to build the box somewhere ?
cheers Shaun
Contact me through my website kirksmotorrad.com and I will send it to you. Doug is no longer with the club. Kirk
Hello,
It was very helpful for me,however I''d like to ask you ,if I don't have the sensor device at all, can I just mark, at what position is the old plat, and then locate the new one, exactly on the same position.what do you think ? by the way, is your BMW starts ?
Best Regards.
Hi Doug, I too built the Hager HES setting box. In his instructions, he says to rotate the HES baseplate until the LED just goes out (assuming the LED's are normally on). Your unit seem to function just the opposite (LED's normally off). Confusing.
Mine does the same did you resolve the problem?
It really doesn't matter if it's the opposite or not as you are looking for the tipping point of where it goes on to off or off to on. That sweet spot is the correct position.
Thanks Douglas.
Test box link posted doesn’t work .
Please if you would , please send it
Joe
Johnson City Texas
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I want to know about the device which you made by your one too
Doug, your left moves all over the place. You should rest the lift and set it down onto the safety bar and save your ram. It also stops all that movement. Was getting sea sick from that..
Other then that TY for some really good information and how to... Thats one pain in the but... A must change ASAP... TY
Lankster Price Yeah, I usually have the bar in, but I kept changing height to get camera angle and what not so I didn't bother putting it back in each time. Sorry for the rough seas...
Douglas Rost Its all good. I know how much time you must put in just to do a video, so we take a bit of a sea trip with you now and then... But still thumbs up for all your helpful input, hours of video work and time... Keep them videos coming.
Good video thank you . I have 1997 r1100rt and I have a love hate relationship with it. Honestly I wish I never bought it😥😭
Your the man. I just purchased my BMW yesterday with 69K on it. When the truck got there it would not start. Now I don't know if it is the HES or not but this video was done like a pro. I appreciate it. I am hoping it is that the kick stand was down or something easy. But if not and it is the HES I am now prepared to do it. I got this bike used from a JERK in KY. Took me 2 weeks for him to release the bike for me. Had a transport company pick up since it was 375 miles from home and did not know if it would run good enough to make it home. Now waiting for it's arrival. You don't know anyone who has side mirrors for these bike and a right hand saddle bag. I am missing those off my bike I bought. I see the mirrors on ebay for like 160.00 and I already ordered new oil and air filter,spark plugs and extra keys for it. Any tips on the bike would be helpful. I saw a video where the windscreen moved. Do all of them have this feature? Thanks for such a great video. May get some help doing this from a certified mechanic to watch over my shoulder. But I thought you did a great job on it. Looks like a lot but not scared of a little work. Thank.
Thank you for this video! I have to replace the stupid Hall sensor, so it helped a lot! Many thanx!
More good information thats just needed..
Dang, radio shacks are all closing up .
I’m wanting to build a test tool .
Question: that box all parts were put into,
where did you get it ?
Thanks for your videos 👍🏽
Joe , Johnson City Texas
eBay
Has anyone else had this problem? I have the engine locked at top dead centre and have the black box attached but there is not enough adjustment on the HES plate to make the light go on and off !!
Would this box also work on early K's
Question: can one check the HES plate is in position with a multimeter technically?
There is probably a way but I am not familiar with it.
Hi could somebody please get in touch with me for the HES.pdf document please
@illinoisBMWriders.... thanks for your informative videos... a simple question, so as to get the best fit, what was the diameter of your cut down U bolt engine lock please.. ? some silly prices on Ebay for a bit of bar !!! - It did occur to me that it would be useful to compile a list of known components liable to fail over a period of time... then consideration can be given to having a spare on hand or to replace before failure...Thanks again...
Miles Dugmore The bolt is 8.3mm in diam, I got it at Ace Hardware and I believe it is their 4" threaded U-bolt, and I just hacked off one side to get to the center portion
Douglas Rost
Hi, Thanks for the info... I am in NZ so I don't have the same access to parts as you do.. but I will machine it out of a piece of bar... :-)
It is hard to follow your video, it doesn't show which side of the bike you're working on when you're finding top dead center especially for someone who never done this before on this bike. I would mostly have to guess where you are or what you're working on. Many times your hands or shoulders are in the way & I can't see what needs to be done. Also is removing the gas tank necessary ?? Thank you.
Evening Doug,How did you come to the conclusion that it was the hall sensor and not bad fuel pump or ignition issue?
You would loose spark and fuel pump (after initial prime) at the same exact time.
How many hours does this take? I took to dealer, want a sanity check before they come back with the estimate.
1-2 hours depending on your skill level
Who's the guy who rewires these?
Anyone know of a video like this for the K1100
Great video! Thanks. Can you reveal who the guy is that may rewire the defective units?
+MrTriple3 Here you go... boxer-upgrades.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/1855593
FabzRustRider like this very informative video thank you 💯
Hello. Great video. It would be nice, difficult I know, to show how you adjust the timing of your hall sensor. And also, can you tell us what and why this sensor brakes down ? Is it a wiring problem or are the magnets loosing their strength ? Is there a way to check the sensor on faulths once its out ?
+Pieter Puk Puk The unit breaks down from faulty wiring housing. Being so close to the engine, the sheathing gets brittle, cracks, shorts, allows moisture in, and then decides to fail when it wants to. If you are out on the road and it goes bad, most likely moisture is the reason and you should do what you can to dry it out and then maybe it will work enough to get you home.
Thank you !
@@kirksmotorrad appreciated. Very helpful.
Fantastic work
was it successful? did the bike start?
It was sucessful
Doug, I, too, am having trouble finding the timing unit build video. Would you please post the link again?
Try this link and let me know if it works. drive.google.com/file/d/0B2oLxYIeWtgTa01qX1h3NG9aeXJ6UXUxM2pSVlJuc19mNlJF/view?usp=sharing
Will be replacing mine on a 1997 with 90k miles on it. My cycle still runs, but it is exhibiting strange symptoms. A BMW tech told me this is the best place to look.
My cycle runs pretty good around town. It started breaking down on long trips. Right at 4200 rpms, it would start misfiring, losing power, and coughing. Felt alot like fuel line clogged. But only at 4200. Strange part, the symptoms cleared up when I climbed up to 4600 rpm. Eventually, (hours of riding) and it gets worse. Now it is misfiring from 4k up to 5k. Low rpm, 1/2/3 gear still engine runs good! Anyway, I'm relpacing this timing unit because it seems a good start. It may not work. If anyone has another idea, please comment.
Redmenace96- Please post a follow up report after you change the timing unit. I ride a 2000 R1100R and have the same experience you describe regarding engine performance. My engine idles well, runs smooth from 1st through 5th gears but only up to 3800-3900 rpm. Once I push the rpm's into the 4000 range I get an unhealthy vibration and diminished throttle response/ loss of power type situation. I'm not misfiring or coughing though. I don't dare throttle into the 4000 range or beyond for fear of damaging something. Thanks in advance. Jeff
@@jeffreykinsella4563 Do you belong to BMW MOA? I posted much longer descriptions of my problem in the Oilhead Forum. Turns out the ignition system was just a good guess by some old-timers. Cycle ran the same after total rebuild. My final solution was 02 sensor, and air-box temp sensor. My ECU was responding poorly to air/temp/oxygen information. Please note, my symptoms cleared up above 5000rpm. Your situation may be different.
Hello Doug, I have a 97' R1100RS that just got to 70K miles. Should I replace my HES sensor even if it is not damaged as preventive maintenance?
+Seb0046 At this point you are gambling and it won't be a matter of if but of when. Consider the type of riding you do, distance or local, and will it be a big deal when you break down.
+illinoisBMWriders Thanks Doug. I will go ahead and buy a new sensor and will keep the current as a backup. Probably will be consulting this video a lot along the process. Now I need to learn how to make that tester :) Thanks for the great vids they are really helpful.
+Seb0046 i finally got to replace the sensor. 72000 miles and had not failed but will go on a long trip now and wanted to be as safe as possible. I could build the tester as well. Thanks for the vid it helped a lot.
Hi. Mine failed at 68000 miles. Do you know when name of the person who fixes them with lifetime warranty? Thanks
Thanks for you reply.
Good video
Good info
PLEASE PLEASE HELP YOU. MY MOTOR DAY DAYS FOR TWO, AND THERE IS A SINGLE DO NOT GAS ONLY TO GAS ONLY. WHEN I LEAVE THAT TWO TWO, OPET WORKS. ALL I WAITED, FUEL PUMP, FILTER, BOMBIN, FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR. KNOW I CAN HELP YOU THERE CAN BE
Video has something to do with VIEW! --- YOU show a lot of hands and shoulder while making RADIO!!!
brasil ok
Thanks for this video, but I'll tell ya what...once I fix this I'm selling this POS GS and will never own another BMW again. I got this bike to go on adventures and with all the problems I've had with it I'm to scared to take it more then 100 miles from home. I don't know how you guys do this...I'm going back to well made Japanese bikes that actually run.
Sorry to hear mate. It has a few niggles (all well documented) but once you sort them out you will never have any issues. Show me a bike that can do 250000 km on any terrain without missing a beat?
cant beat japanese bikes owning them forever and now owning r1100gs at 80k im replacing everything, and my s1kr, different design. japanese built military quality and very simple. but r1100s you need to be the mechanic of it and once this sensor replaced with fuel components especially fuel regulator it should be fine
@@zoeler1 if it had 250000 KM on it you wouldn't hear a complaint from me...it's got 40,000 miles on it and left me stranded 3 times. I just replaced it this month with a 2022 KLR. I'll never do BMW again. That bike burned me to bad.
@@CoreyBrass what were the issues you were having just curious. I'm a Kawi die hard but the KLR has a crappy carburetor, if it stalls mid nowhere let it sit it will start again, the carbs flood themselves. Xt650L how ever is da DOG, I dont like single cylinder, had my times w them can't take the sound
@@mmm4638 I've done 2 fuel pumps on it. This hull sensor. I had an issue with the rear axle that I still sent understand. I was on I-5 and all the sudden I thought my tusk box cam loose I felt the bike wiggle. My buddy who was behind me told me it wasn't the box but my rear tire was wiggling. That somehow had something to so with the axle but I still don't understand it. ABS stopped working....but other then that great bike. 🤣
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