8:00 Sadly, you used the wrong couplings. The ones you used have a "running" thread. This type of coupling is intended ONLY to protect pipe threads on joints (21' sections) of pipe. In fact, it's called "T&C" (threaded & coupled) pipe. What you want is a coupling with "tapered" threads. These threads TIGHTEN as they are screwed together. Over time, that running thread will loosen and leak. I'm a retired plumber with 48 years of field experience.
I can’t believe how many people total misunderstand about how deep you can draw water. It has zero to do with how deep your pipe is down in the ground. How far down inside the pipe is what matters. They routinely drive them down here for sprinklers to 45-47 feet. Not that it matters but on top of that Teflon tape add some liquid Teflon. Got that tip from an old plumber and have never had a leak since. If you use a jackhammer you can easily go down to 45. It will get you much safer water with far less far chemicals in it.
Don't know if you did, but make sure to drive the point so that static water level is higher than well point by several feet. Also turn and tighten pipes while pounding. Prevent thread crush and leaking.
The big box stores carry sand points and almost any hardware store of any size carry them. I can only speak for around here but they are plentiful. One store even Carry’s a 10’ well point. If you ever have to do this again a jackhammer does in seconds what can take hours by hand driving. Saves your shoulders, not everybody is so young.
You mean "plumb" as you go, especially in the beginning. Lots of people get it wrong because a "bubble stick" aka a "level" has several bubbles. One is for level and two are for plumb.
Gloves protect hands when driving better than the cap protects the pipe shaft. Use them to avoid blisters & potential metal splinters. Thirty-plus-years pipefitter.
You can rent a jack hammers with a socket that sits on the coupling. Much faster to drive. An old trick is to rub a fair amount of soap from any bath bar all over the screen on the sand point. This stops unwanted clay an silt from pluging the screen on your sand point.
You guys did a great job.. great video. My daddy witch our well when I was a little girl mud 60s. He used a peach limb and I couldn't keep the limb from bending down. Great memory lol
Is there a reason you switched from a siphon valve to a check valve? Could you have just stayed with the siphon valve? Then you could drain the well for winter or am I missing something?
Oh ya, the equipment rental place in Alvarado rents out a hydraulic post driver the attaches to a skid steer. The page says it will pound up to 3" steel in a few minutes or less. I bet if you got a galvanized well point from tractor supply and some pipe it would make the job easy.
Love the info. I'm in south Texas and not sure if I have rocks or dirt down that far. Anyone in the Austin/San Antonio are have any input as having any luck doing this way. I've also seen the drilling with a drill method. Any advice I would be very grateful.
If you have to go deeper than about 25 feet, you'll probably have to drill. Especially in a dry, clay soil and rock place like San Antonio. It'd be interesting to know how deep your water is.
I am hoping to drive a sand point well to try and fill a small duck slough, do you think this could be possible with a solar powered pump? My biggest concern is the flow rate thst a well of this size can offer. I have considered driving two next to each other to try and increase flow rate. What is your opinion?
I thought those pumps could pump upwards of 100 to 150 feet? And are you guys familiar with how to put in "weep holes" to keep water below freeze line?
The only thing I would have done differently is driving it a bit lower for shorter people to have more momentum pumping it.🤭 But great job and so pleasing to see the fresh, clean, unpolluted, nontoxic water gushing out!💦
Hi, i did exactly the same thing as you. I have the water 6 feet below (i am maybe 50' close to lake). I tried with a new manual pump like yours, but it's very very hard to get the water out. Is there a reason please ?
I saw another video that talks about this issue. They said you need to put a "weep hole" .I need to read up on that more, like how to put it in, but that way we can get the water all winter, don't have to worry about it freezing. I live in Montana, it is necessary!!!
This is a frost free system so it can be used year round. Joe does have to prime the pump, but he can use it through the winter. Just depends on your application and what you need your well for.
I installed a WellPoint and 10 feet of pipe. My post hole digger hit water 1 foot . I measured the water 7 ft from the bottom. I pump and pump but I don’t get any water It’s gets so hard can’t pump the handle anymore. It’s like a strong vacuum. I took the pitcher pump off and the pipe is full of water . I don’t understand what’s going on
I tried this with galvanized steel pipe and used the red caps to protect from the pounding... Well my pipe thread was still completely destroyed! Is there something I did wrong?
Hmm I know there are different grades of pipe so that might be the issue but also we've found the pipe imported from china seems to be a bit softer and prone to breaking threads like that.
You're correct. This is a "frost free" set up, so the water runs back down. The pump has to be primed to get water, but it won't freeze in the winter. It's worked well for Joe so far!
I would of smashed the like button but I was spending too much time turning down the volume of the stupid music and then turning it back up to be able to hear what was being said.
Ya but a comment is just as good as smashing the like button. All interaction is good interaction when it comes to the algorithm. Thanks for participating!
Look I'm not going to say that dowsing or witching for water doesn't necessarily work. I have seen very little evidence that it works at all including one time we were looking for a well that had already been dug and installed but the wellhead had been buried under about 6 ft of dirt and the guy couldn't find it..... What I will say is if you dig deep enough anywhere in North America, you will hit water if you're in the Eastern United States, it's definitely not difficult if you're in the Western United States. There is a little bit more luck involved in hoping that you get enough water to have a productive well, but if you dig deep enough, you will hit water
I would have given you a Like, but you said that you couldn't say Y'all. I'm from TN. I'm offended. :) I gave it to you anyway. Sry, but you really must me a Yankee. You plumb as you go, not level as you go....rofl
You are correct, people think it works because it’s difficult in most places to NOT find water within 25’ of the surface. Controlled experiments with large numbers of dowsing ‘experts’ over the years has completely debunked dowsing/witching. Dowsing has been demonstrated to completely fail to locate buried water lines or locate water tables at any percentage greater than random selection. If you drive a point, you’ll nearly always hit water in most places.
8:00
Sadly, you used the wrong couplings.
The ones you used have a "running" thread. This type of coupling is intended ONLY to protect pipe threads on joints (21' sections) of pipe. In fact, it's called "T&C" (threaded & coupled) pipe.
What you want is a coupling with "tapered" threads. These threads TIGHTEN as they are screwed together.
Over time, that running thread will loosen and leak.
I'm a retired plumber with 48 years of field experience.
Thanks for the information
I can’t believe how many people total misunderstand about how deep you can draw water. It has zero to do with how deep your pipe is down in the ground. How far down inside the pipe is what matters. They routinely drive them down here for sprinklers to 45-47 feet. Not that it matters but on top of that Teflon tape add some liquid Teflon. Got that tip from an old plumber and have never had a leak since. If you use a jackhammer you can easily go down to 45. It will get you much safer water with far less far chemicals in it.
Don't know if you did, but make sure to drive the point so that static water level is higher than well point by several feet. Also turn and tighten pipes while pounding. Prevent thread crush and leaking.
Great advice. Thanks for the reminders.
The big box stores carry sand points and almost any hardware store of any size carry them. I can only speak for around here but they are plentiful. One store even Carry’s a 10’ well point. If you ever have to do this again a jackhammer does in seconds what can take hours by hand driving. Saves your shoulders, not everybody is so young.
You mean "plumb" as you go, especially in the beginning.
Lots of people get it wrong because a "bubble stick" aka a "level" has several bubbles. One is for level and two are for plumb.
Do you mind sharing the rough cost for this?
It’s been on my list to add one for emergencies. This was helpful to see!
we ended up around $325 for the whole project
@@TheAnyoneCanFarmExperience whoa awesome!
I would suggest using simple deving rods first. They work great for locating water tables.
Great info! 😊👍
Thanks for sharing I have about 20' of pipe pump and a sandpoint I just don't know where to put it down thanks for sharing God-bless
Glad to help
Great video, my question is, how do u find out the depth of the water in accordance to how far to drive the pipe. Thanks, just found your channel..
you keep going until you hear water at the end of the string, there's always a chance you'll come up dry.
Gloves protect hands when driving better than the cap protects the pipe shaft. Use them to avoid blisters & potential metal splinters. Thirty-plus-years pipefitter.
You can rent a jack hammers with a socket that sits on the coupling. Much faster to drive. An old trick is to rub a fair amount of soap from any bath bar all over the screen on the sand point. This stops unwanted clay an silt from pluging the screen on your sand point.
You guys did a great job.. great video. My daddy witch our well when I was a little girl mud 60s. He used a peach limb and I couldn't keep the limb from bending down. Great memory lol
Glad you enjoyed it! I’ve heard of folks using sticks, lots of different methods 😁
Music is way loud when you are trying to listen to what you are saying. Love the video,
Is there a reason you switched from a siphon valve to a check valve? Could you have just stayed with the siphon valve? Then you could drain the well for winter or am I missing something?
I wish I knew where I could hire someone to drive one of those for me. I'm in Millsap Texas.
Well hello there neighbor, I'm not far in Maypearl. I'm also searching for good how to videos to try this.
Oh ya, the equipment rental place in Alvarado rents out a hydraulic post driver the attaches to a skid steer. The page says it will pound up to 3" steel in a few minutes or less. I bet if you got a galvanized well point from tractor supply and some pipe it would make the job easy.
Love the info. I'm in south Texas and not sure if I have rocks or dirt down that far. Anyone in the Austin/San Antonio are have any input as having any luck doing this way. I've also seen the drilling with a drill method. Any advice I would be very grateful.
If you have to go deeper than about 25 feet, you'll probably have to drill. Especially in a dry, clay soil and rock place like San Antonio. It'd be interesting to know how deep your water is.
I am hoping to drive a sand point well to try and fill a small duck slough, do you think this could be possible with a solar powered pump? My biggest concern is the flow rate thst a well of this size can offer. I have considered driving two next to each other to try and increase flow rate. What is your opinion?
Did you use stainless well pipe or galvanized? What grade? Neophyte here, and I want to get top quality for consumption safety.
I thought those pumps could pump upwards of 100 to 150 feet? And are you guys familiar with how to put in "weep holes" to keep water below freeze line?
Never heard of any of that. I'm a total amateur but would appreciate hearing you exand on that.
don't forget to wash out the cutting oils from inside the pipe with soap and water or you can get a bad taste for a while .
Good tip. Absolutely!
The only thing I would have done differently is driving it a bit lower for shorter people to have more momentum pumping it.🤭 But great job and so pleasing to see the fresh, clean, unpolluted, nontoxic water gushing out!💦
Hahaha We did end up knocking it down a bit further!
Hi, i did exactly the same thing as you. I have the water 6 feet below (i am maybe 50' close to lake). I tried with a new manual pump like yours, but it's very very hard to get the water out. Is there a reason please ?
Question
Do you have a link to order the parts for the well
Can it be attach to a 12v electric pump. If so how?
This is great
Sadly my land is way too rocky to do this.
Hi there - I found the well point, couplings, etc. I cannot find the right piping - any suggestions on where I can get them? Thanks in advance!
Menards sell well pipe, very specific, it's labeled as well pipe in 60" sections.
Amazon
Hey, how deep did you drive yours? Mine is about 10 feet deep but only pulls up a mix of 75% sand and 25% water!
What does it mean if mine is barely flowing out? I can hear the water about 4 feet down. It’s hardly trickling out even after priming
does each of the 25 feet sections of pipe have thread on each end or conection already?
What about when winter comes, do you need to do anything special so nothing ends up freezing or getting damaged?
make sure to drain the pump so there's no water to freeze in the pipe of body of the pump
I saw another video that talks about this issue. They said you need to put a "weep hole" .I need to read up on that more, like how to put it in, but that way we can get the water all winter, don't have to worry about it freezing. I live in Montana, it is necessary!!!
Did you use Well Drive Pipe or just 1 3/4 Galvanized pipe?
Did you guys check water tables at all in advance to know if there was water that shallow?
Nope, we knew there was water down there but other than witching we did nothing
there is a bit of luck involved with the DIY approach
What is the weight of your driver post? how long did it take you to drive it down and the depth of the well?
Where did you put shut off valve, or check valve ?? Logically a check valve should over well point, so the water wont drain off from the pipes.
This is a frost free system so it can be used year round. Joe does have to prime the pump, but he can use it through the winter. Just depends on your application and what you need your well for.
I got the same blister 😅
Divining rods 2:48
Ok so my pipe is holding water at the top , this mean my drive point is clogged correct ?
Is it drilling or pounding a sand point? Lol thank you for the video! How does the water taste?
Water tastes great, thanks to our new water filtration system!
It's called DRIVING a point.
I installed a WellPoint and 10 feet of pipe. My post hole digger hit water 1 foot . I measured the water 7 ft from the bottom. I pump and pump but I don’t get any water
It’s gets so hard can’t pump the handle anymore. It’s like a strong vacuum. I took the pitcher pump off and the pipe is full of water . I don’t understand what’s going on
Wow. You'd think hitting water quick would be a good thing.
Your well point may be in clay and plugged.
How do you keep it from freezing?
haha there is a trick to it, we have a video coming soon
I terested in the freeze vid. Great work!!!
Where did you get the pipe?
How do you know if a 25' sand point/drive point will cut the musterd
Those pumps aren't able to siphon well over25'
I tried this with galvanized steel pipe and used the red caps to protect from the pounding... Well my pipe thread was still completely destroyed! Is there something I did wrong?
Hmm I know there are different grades of pipe so that might be the issue but also we've found the pipe imported from china seems to be a bit softer and prone to breaking threads like that.
Next time use a short section of sacrificial pipe that will take the pounding. 10-12" section on top with the cap
Using the earth's magnetic force
Don’t you want the water to drain back down ? In winter time it will freeze and split your pipe if it’s at or above ground level
You're correct. This is a "frost free" set up, so the water runs back down. The pump has to be primed to get water, but it won't freeze in the winter. It's worked well for Joe so far!
audio gets super loud when music plays, I spent most of this video turning my volume up and down
Mark, if you install a check valve. I belive it will freeze and break?
Very true as you cant let the water go down at the end of the season
I would of smashed the like button but I was spending too much time turning down the volume of the stupid music and then turning it back up to be able to hear what was being said.
Ya but a comment is just as good as smashing the like button. All interaction is good interaction when it comes to the algorithm. Thanks for participating!
I hate when people put background music in videos like this. It's not needed and annoying
If there's a check valve keeping the water from going back down. Won't it freeze up in the winter?
Hahahaha 😂
Look I'm not going to say that dowsing or witching for water doesn't necessarily work. I have seen very little evidence that it works at all including one time we were looking for a well that had already been dug and installed but the wellhead had been buried under about 6 ft of dirt and the guy couldn't find it..... What I will say is if you dig deep enough anywhere in North America, you will hit water if you're in the Eastern United States, it's definitely not difficult if you're in the Western United States. There is a little bit more luck involved in hoping that you get enough water to have a productive well, but if you dig deep enough, you will hit water
Why so deep? Some water wells are pretty shallow.
But you have rubber soles. You're insulated from ground.
It still worked! When you've got the touch, you've got it.
"Plumb"
Its not better than nothing. It’s exactly the same as nothing. There’s water everywhere underground. You can drive your well anywhere.
You know geology ?
I would have given you a Like, but you said that you couldn't say Y'all. I'm from TN. I'm offended. :) I gave it to you anyway. Sry, but you really must me a Yankee. You plumb as you go, not level as you go....rofl
your music blew my ears out, check your volumes
It's 'an' off grid... 'an' not 'a'.
Get your blood pressure checked
Dowsing is superstitious nonsense.
It has worked for me numerous times. I anticipated expectation bias and still believe. Thanks R
It's worked for me in the past.
You are correct, people think it works because it’s difficult in most places to NOT find water within 25’ of the surface.
Controlled experiments with large numbers of dowsing ‘experts’ over the years has completely debunked dowsing/witching. Dowsing has been demonstrated to completely fail to locate buried water lines or locate water tables at any percentage greater than random selection. If you drive a point, you’ll nearly always hit water in most places.
It's not really
It's always worked for me.
Dowsing is not a scientifically valid practice. It's just superstitious trash. Please stick to factual things.