Haha yeah I like the Sterling for the cheap factory e locker and that they are so cheap and common in the junk yards. They do have some pinion issues pre-2011, limited gears available in the 2011+, and a big center section though. They're strong axles, just have some hangups that need to be taken care of. If you don't care about the metric bolt pattern I would go with a Dana 70 or 14 bolt- both are more reliable and better aftermarket support. If you want the metric pattern then it's a great option 👍
The truck had a king pin 60 front and 14 bolt rear with 4.56... (locked/welded) My sob story is that my well pump died and I needed money quick seeing how I had no water..lol I had to sell those axles, and now it's sadly sitting on jack stands awaiting some budget tons from somewhere.
Bummer! I know how that stuff goes. The super duty axles are a great option. If you wanted to keep the standard bolt pattern in the super duty front, I saw that Artec sells unit bearings with both bolt patterns in them. That way you could match it with a 14 bolt or Dana 70 if you wanted. Just an option. Good luck!
I got this almost exact same truck except mines 2003 4.7 litler i seen quite a bit of videos on motors and transmission swapping for alot car old chevrolet caprice getting ls motor doubled up the horse power and pft just switching to 5.3 v8 vortec engine from junk yard i even few videos of guys doing 😢 dodge ram D150 and throwing out the 318 or 360 swaping in 3rd or 4th generation dodge hemi 5.7 liter first time I seen someone swapibg out axles to oneton can't to seen you're done nice project BTW keep up the good work 👏
Do you have any issues with driveshaft or diff to gas tank clearance since the dakota / durango have an offset rear axle and (assuming here ) the Sterling is centered?
You probablycouldve went with the Rt dakota 9 1/4 rear end. I dont know if the 9 1/4 in the ram was the same size, i dont believe so but they were a beefy rear end and some made for the dakotas. Ive been thinking of putting a jeep front axle in my dakota
They're beefy but for tires that size, I prefer to run a full float axle so that if a shaft does break, I don't risk losing the whole wheel and tire haha. Plus this axle set costs less than an R/T rear and Jeep front axle would cost haha people want an arm and a leg for those. Thanks for watching!
Hi, nice work you doing there!!!! I have a ‘89 Dana 60 HP KP that I’m planning to mount in my ‘05 Jeep Wrangler. I want to see your project finish, to see how far the tires stick out on the sides!!! Even I’m thinking on follow your route on the super duty d60 and sell the kingpin!!! Keep the videos coming!!!! Good luck
Thanks a lot! Glad you're enjoying them. Yeah the tires will definitely stick out although the Dakota's are not exactly narrow trucks haha. I know plenty of people love the KP axles but I have a hard time justifying them especially with the strength, ease of maintenance, and ridiculous price of these super duty ones right off the bat. If you're ok with doing the housing trim like I did in another video, I would say go for it! 😎
Can’t wait to see the artec mounted on the axle. Please keep the good work. I appreciate the great details on your explanations. I’m also thinking on running the d60 full length. 👍🏻
Thanks a lot Josh! Haven't put out a new video in a bit because I've been working on the truck but should have another video out soon. Glad you're enjoying the content 👍
yo! i stumbled across your videos by chance and am following the axle build/swap stuff. just a suggestion: little bit longer videos, please! maybe a little more detail as to what you're doing. did you not re-weld those perches yet? hook up the driveshaft to pull it out of the garage or was it in 4-wheel? etc...
Thanks a lot for the feedback! I will keep that in mind. As to your questions, I'm waiting to weld the perches on until I do the shackle reversal and set my pinion angle correctly and yeah I drove out with the front axle only. The driveshaft will be addressed in a future video. Thanks again!
It's almost done! I've been playing with some new editing software so it's taking quite a bit longer than usual haha. Should be up next weekend 👍 As far as your own SAS, yeah welding is pretty much required for Dakota's since they don't have the bolt on kits like Toyotas haha. My advice is to get a 220V welder that can do MIG, start practicing, and seek advice (either from friends or online) about what needs to be improved haha. TH-cam channels about welding are helpful but nothing will improve your ability as fast as practice and constructive criticism of your welds. I'm planning on doing a video about welding that's specific to projects like this since it's seems overwhelming to people when in reality it mostly comes down to good technique and practice. Thanks for watching!
doing the same thing.... well kinda ... got the sterling 10.25 for the rear how do you plan on getting the speedometer working... I'm curious, also my front is actually a 3/4 ton converted dana 44 from a 78 Bronco, Chevy brakes.. I like the long radius arm sus from old broncos :) and 44" tires on 5:38 gears.. also doing a black box to an old 205... but plese keep me up on how you get your speedo to work... in ca as well so Dakotas on the con this summer :)
Dang thats like a heck of a build! Sounds awesome. My Dakota has the speedometer sending unit on the transmission so it SHOULD function normally as long as I regear it to the correct ratio. I will make a video covering it either way so stay tuned!
Also I olny have a speed sensor in the diff because mine is the 4.7L w/ nv3500 manual trans. So this will be intresting... unfortunately the tooth count on the 10.50 is not the same as the Chrysler... math will have to be done
Gotcha I was wondering which ones used the same sensor for both. Do you know what the stock axle tooth count is? I might have to do that math too if the abs system freaks out haha
My perches ended up being 43.5" center to center and angled 15 degrees down from the pinion axis (when measuring from the leaf mount surface on the perches the pinion is angled up 15 degrees.) That's with the stock leaf spring setup. Hope that helps! Good luck 👍
@@WebWheeler helps a lot more than you think I appreciate it man I’ve been through like 4 rearends and got this one for free so I’m throwing it in useing the same drive shaft just putting in a bastard joint for an easy swap
Glad to hear it'll help. Yeah I have some bastard joints in this thing for now too haha. So far so good. I have another video with this super duty rear end getting an electric locker if you want to check that out 🤘 good luck with your swap!
Hey man. Love what you're doing! I'm planning on a SAS for my 2000 Durango. Keep up the videos man. I wanna know how you're going to adapt drive shafts...
I did at first but it ended up going away once I swapped in the stock abs sensor from the Dakota instead of the Ford one. Bolted ring in- just needed to grind off a little guard that was cast into the sterling housing. Can't remember if that was before or after I regeared too - that might have affected it also. Good luck!
whats going to be your plan for the brake system ? im doing something similar with my '99 ram and swapping in d60/d70 but like your dakota my ram has stock drums but the d70 has discs
I'm basically using the break system from a 2002 Ram 2500. Some of those came with discs in the rear and have a proportioning valve for the rear brake near the master cylinder. I'm going to give that a shot and tweak the system from there if necessary. I will be covering that in future videos too. Thanks for watching!
And in case you're wondering, I found rear disc brakes and valve on a 2002 single rear wheel 2500 with the 360 v8 motor. Not sure what other years/configurations had them but hopefully that helps
Yeah im going to be swapping to a dana 300 transfer case I have laying around. Maybe someday an Atlas but that's not in the budget right now lol. Yeah i actually am from the bay area- good call haha
@@WebWheeler Something about the neighborhoods just looked like the bay. Eh Atlas cases are cool, but that 3 grand can go so much farther in other places.
I chose to leave it and the front end full width. More stable off-road and no custom axle shafts to deal with if I ever need replacements. The rear could be narrowed by around 4" though if you use the short factory shaft on both ends. Thanks for watching!
@@WebWheeler it's a 2001 four door with the 4.7 I'm just getting a good build list together now for it won't be able to start untell I get back from overseas trying to run around a 36 to 38s since it's not gonna be driven on the road ever just trails , and just deffently love the work man just bingged watched all your videos can't wait for more content
Nice! Thanks for the good words and support man. Yeah 37s seem to be ideal especially if you don't want to do too much extra work on the frame, etc. Plus you could get arrested with running a Dana 44 if you wanted. The scope of work involved gets exponentially bigger after 37s haha. Good luck on the build! Going overseas for military?
Haha yeah it does. Hoping to graduate to tonka truck. I have up to date pics @WebWheeler on instagram if you want spoilers as to what it's looking like now
I'm building it with no lift for now just to get everything as tucked as possible. I will probably end up lifting it a couple inches to allow more uptravel but not too much because I want it to still fit in the garage haha
Mainly to save time and money at the moment haha. I have some Chevy 63's I will be putting in eventually though. I'm keeping leafs mainly because I want this thing to still haul and work like a normal truck
Haven't gotten there yet haha I drove it out with front wheel drive only but the plan is to have a custom one made at a local shop when it's all done. I will be either swapping the transfer case or getting a slip yoke eliminator so once that's done I will get the rear shaft built
I have a 2000 Dakota 4x4 4.7 with the factory front diff n open 9.25 in the back any pointers on lockers or what not ? I go hunting n some of the trails are thick deep mud n it's hard to get it through
Unfortunately there are no lockers or limited slips for the front axle that I'm aware of. The rear is limited to limited slips from the factory and aftermarket. Only way to get a locker in the there is to swap axles. Best option would probably be a 6 lug GM 12 bolt rear- more aftermarket parts and the same wheel pattern as the Dakota. The front of a whole can of worms though as you can see in my swap videos haha
I am going to reverse them to get a better transition from spring to frame for rock crawling. The travel difference is negligible but the spring-over shackle mounts are a big catch point.
Sweet! Yeah I get that feeling haha just means you'll have to start another build afterwards 😎 after this Dakota I'm tempted to build a Chevy avalanche just because I don't see many built
Brother break cleaner works better and is faster and vheaper then spider killer it also kilss them instantly aswell as wasps bees and anything that flys or crawls chears
![Fit a Super Duty Dana 60 in a Dodge Dakota! - [Project SuperDUkota - Dakota+Super Duty axles] Part 2](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/w6Gk08Ojp_k/mqdefault.jpg)
![Fit a Super Duty Dana 60 in a Dodge Dakota! - [Project SuperDUkota - Dakota+Super Duty axles] Part 2](/img/tr.png)
Dude thanks for these videos. Gonna try and replicate the build. I’m so excited. Glad I found your channel.
Thank you for watching! Glad you found it too haha. Good luck on the build! That's what this channel is all about 👍
I'm tinkerin' with mopars too, but that chunky Sterling is lookin' pretty good....hmm
Haha yeah I like the Sterling for the cheap factory e locker and that they are so cheap and common in the junk yards. They do have some pinion issues pre-2011, limited gears available in the 2011+, and a big center section though. They're strong axles, just have some hangups that need to be taken care of. If you don't care about the metric bolt pattern I would go with a Dana 70 or 14 bolt- both are more reliable and better aftermarket support. If you want the metric pattern then it's a great option 👍
The truck had a king pin 60 front and 14 bolt rear with 4.56... (locked/welded) My sob story is that my well pump died and I needed money quick seeing how I had no water..lol I had to sell those axles, and now it's sadly sitting on jack stands awaiting some budget tons from somewhere.
Bummer! I know how that stuff goes. The super duty axles are a great option. If you wanted to keep the standard bolt pattern in the super duty front, I saw that Artec sells unit bearings with both bolt patterns in them. That way you could match it with a 14 bolt or Dana 70 if you wanted. Just an option. Good luck!
I got this almost exact same truck except mines 2003 4.7 litler i seen quite a bit of videos on motors and transmission swapping for alot car old chevrolet caprice getting ls motor doubled up the horse power and pft just switching to 5.3 v8 vortec engine from junk yard i even few videos of guys doing 😢 dodge ram D150 and throwing out the 318 or 360 swaping in 3rd or 4th generation dodge hemi 5.7 liter first time I seen someone swapibg out axles to oneton can't to seen you're done nice project BTW keep up the good work 👏
Do you have any issues with driveshaft or diff to gas tank clearance since the dakota / durango have an offset rear axle and (assuming here ) the Sterling is centered?
It's real close but it actually does clear. The Sterling is offset the same way as the factory Chrysler axle. Thanks for watching!
You probablycouldve went with the Rt dakota 9 1/4 rear end. I dont know if the 9 1/4 in the ram was the same size, i dont believe so but they were a beefy rear end and some made for the dakotas. Ive been thinking of putting a jeep front axle in my dakota
They're beefy but for tires that size, I prefer to run a full float axle so that if a shaft does break, I don't risk losing the whole wheel and tire haha. Plus this axle set costs less than an R/T rear and Jeep front axle would cost haha people want an arm and a leg for those. Thanks for watching!
Hi, nice work you doing there!!!! I have a ‘89 Dana 60 HP KP that I’m planning to mount in my ‘05 Jeep Wrangler. I want to see your project finish, to see how far the tires stick out on the sides!!! Even I’m thinking on follow your route on the super duty d60 and sell the kingpin!!! Keep the videos coming!!!! Good luck
Thanks a lot! Glad you're enjoying them. Yeah the tires will definitely stick out although the Dakota's are not exactly narrow trucks haha. I know plenty of people love the KP axles but I have a hard time justifying them especially with the strength, ease of maintenance, and ridiculous price of these super duty ones right off the bat. If you're ok with doing the housing trim like I did in another video, I would say go for it! 😎
Can’t wait to see the artec mounted on the axle. Please keep the good work. I appreciate the great details on your explanations. I’m also thinking on running the d60 full length. 👍🏻
Fantastico sempreeee parabéns 👏
👍🍻
Love the content, please keep up the awesome work!
Thanks a lot Josh! Haven't put out a new video in a bit because I've been working on the truck but should have another video out soon. Glad you're enjoying the content 👍
yo! i stumbled across your videos by chance and am following the axle build/swap stuff. just a suggestion: little bit longer videos, please! maybe a little more detail as to what you're doing. did you not re-weld those perches yet? hook up the driveshaft to pull it out of the garage or was it in 4-wheel? etc...
Thanks a lot for the feedback! I will keep that in mind. As to your questions, I'm waiting to weld the perches on until I do the shackle reversal and set my pinion angle correctly and yeah I drove out with the front axle only. The driveshaft will be addressed in a future video. Thanks again!
When's the next video. You're giving me inspiration for my '99 Dakota. I've always wanted a SAS, but I don't have the welding skills.
It's almost done! I've been playing with some new editing software so it's taking quite a bit longer than usual haha. Should be up next weekend 👍
As far as your own SAS, yeah welding is pretty much required for Dakota's since they don't have the bolt on kits like Toyotas haha. My advice is to get a 220V welder that can do MIG, start practicing, and seek advice (either from friends or online) about what needs to be improved haha. TH-cam channels about welding are helpful but nothing will improve your ability as fast as practice and constructive criticism of your welds. I'm planning on doing a video about welding that's specific to projects like this since it's seems overwhelming to people when in reality it mostly comes down to good technique and practice. Thanks for watching!
doing the same thing.... well kinda ... got the sterling 10.25 for the rear how do you plan on getting the speedometer working... I'm curious, also my front is actually a 3/4 ton converted dana 44 from a 78 Bronco, Chevy brakes.. I like the long radius arm sus from old broncos :) and 44" tires on 5:38 gears.. also doing a black box to an old 205... but plese keep me up on how you get your speedo to work... in ca as well so Dakotas on the con this summer :)
Dang thats like a heck of a build! Sounds awesome. My Dakota has the speedometer sending unit on the transmission so it SHOULD function normally as long as I regear it to the correct ratio. I will make a video covering it either way so stay tuned!
@@WebWheeler killer when its all done maybe we can have dakotas on the con ;) cheers... will stay tuned...
Also I olny have a speed sensor in the diff because mine is the 4.7L w/ nv3500 manual trans. So this will be intresting... unfortunately the tooth count on the 10.50 is not the same as the Chrysler... math will have to be done
Sounds like a plan! Would be a cool get together
Gotcha I was wondering which ones used the same sensor for both. Do you know what the stock axle tooth count is? I might have to do that math too if the abs system freaks out haha
Okay this is a long shot but what are the measurements you put them new perches trying to get mine on tonight
My perches ended up being 43.5" center to center and angled 15 degrees down from the pinion axis (when measuring from the leaf mount surface on the perches the pinion is angled up 15 degrees.) That's with the stock leaf spring setup. Hope that helps! Good luck 👍
@@WebWheeler helps a lot more than you think I appreciate it man I’ve been through like 4 rearends and got this one for free so I’m throwing it in useing the same drive shaft just putting in a bastard joint for an easy swap
Glad to hear it'll help. Yeah I have some bastard joints in this thing for now too haha. So far so good. I have another video with this super duty rear end getting an electric locker if you want to check that out 🤘 good luck with your swap!
Hey man. Love what you're doing! I'm planning on a SAS for my 2000 Durango. Keep up the videos man. I wanna know how you're going to adapt drive shafts...
Thanks dude! I haven't decided how I'm going to handle those just yet- might be swapping transfer cases but stay tuned and we will see!
I just finished swapping my rear axle and now I got abs and break lights on my dash. You get this issue too?
I did at first but it ended up going away once I swapped in the stock abs sensor from the Dakota instead of the Ford one. Bolted ring in- just needed to grind off a little guard that was cast into the sterling housing. Can't remember if that was before or after I regeared too - that might have affected it also. Good luck!
What did you do to get the pinion flange to work I’m thinking I might have to change to a pinion yoke
Yeah the driveshaft needs to be modified to fit the 1410 ujoint and flange of the sterling axle. Should be an easy job for most driveline shops 👍
WebWheeler awesome thanks for the response mine has a flange but I found a pinion yoke mod for it so iguess that’s next!
whats going to be your plan for the brake system ? im doing something similar with my '99 ram and swapping in d60/d70 but like your dakota my ram has stock drums but the d70 has discs
I'm basically using the break system from a 2002 Ram 2500. Some of those came with discs in the rear and have a proportioning valve for the rear brake near the master cylinder. I'm going to give that a shot and tweak the system from there if necessary. I will be covering that in future videos too. Thanks for watching!
And in case you're wondering, I found rear disc brakes and valve on a 2002 single rear wheel 2500 with the 360 v8 motor. Not sure what other years/configurations had them but hopefully that helps
@@WebWheeler are you going to be deleting the abs system ?
Not planning to... I'm going to take a shot at making it functional but we'll see haha
Getting rid of the slip yoke eventually? You look local, SF bay area?
Yeah im going to be swapping to a dana 300 transfer case I have laying around. Maybe someday an Atlas but that's not in the budget right now lol. Yeah i actually am from the bay area- good call haha
@@WebWheeler Something about the neighborhoods just looked like the bay. Eh Atlas cases are cool, but that 3 grand can go so much farther in other places.
Yeah you nailed it- the $3k is needed elsewhere lol. Im outside Sacramento now but the neighborhood is almost identical haha
Did you have too shortened the axle?
I chose to leave it and the front end full width. More stable off-road and no custom axle shafts to deal with if I ever need replacements. The rear could be narrowed by around 4" though if you use the short factory shaft on both ends. Thanks for watching!
I wish you could just mock the bed on the truck and see how far the tires stick out
I measured it the best I can right now and it is 4.5" outside the body. With new wheels it will probably be closer to 6" on each side 👍
What year Ford did you get the axles out of I'm starting a Dakota build very soon
This one is a 2006. What year Dakota? I have a few other rear axle videos that might help with your project 👍 thanks for watching!
@@WebWheeler it's a 2001 four door with the 4.7 I'm just getting a good build list together now for it won't be able to start untell I get back from overseas trying to run around a 36 to 38s since it's not gonna be driven on the road ever just trails , and just deffently love the work man just bingged watched all your videos can't wait for more content
Nice! Thanks for the good words and support man. Yeah 37s seem to be ideal especially if you don't want to do too much extra work on the frame, etc. Plus you could get arrested with running a Dana 44 if you wanted. The scope of work involved gets exponentially bigger after 37s haha. Good luck on the build! Going overseas for military?
nice job, but right now looks like something hot wheels were made? Thanks
Haha yeah it does. Hoping to graduate to tonka truck. I have up to date pics @WebWheeler on instagram if you want spoilers as to what it's looking like now
How much are you going to be lifting it with those axles if any at all?
I'm building it with no lift for now just to get everything as tucked as possible. I will probably end up lifting it a couple inches to allow more uptravel but not too much because I want it to still fit in the garage haha
Any reason youre keeping the stock leafs?
Mainly to save time and money at the moment haha. I have some Chevy 63's I will be putting in eventually though. I'm keeping leafs mainly because I want this thing to still haul and work like a normal truck
What drive shaft did u use?
Haven't gotten there yet haha I drove it out with front wheel drive only but the plan is to have a custom one made at a local shop when it's all done. I will be either swapping the transfer case or getting a slip yoke eliminator so once that's done I will get the rear shaft built
I have a 2000 Dakota 4x4 4.7 with the factory front diff n open 9.25 in the back any pointers on lockers or what not ? I go hunting n some of the trails are thick deep mud n it's hard to get it through
Unfortunately there are no lockers or limited slips for the front axle that I'm aware of. The rear is limited to limited slips from the factory and aftermarket. Only way to get a locker in the there is to swap axles. Best option would probably be a 6 lug GM 12 bolt rear- more aftermarket parts and the same wheel pattern as the Dakota. The front of a whole can of worms though as you can see in my swap videos haha
Isn't WD and spider killer the same ha ha!
Lol good point! Should have just gone with that
dont flip the shackles,they give more travel.
I am going to reverse them to get a better transition from spring to frame for rock crawling. The travel difference is negligible but the spring-over shackle mounts are a big catch point.
Subbed! Waiting on an update!! Lol
Editing the update right now! Thanks for the sub- glad you're enjoying the videos 👍
WebWheeler I'm stuffing a D60 and Sterling 10.5 under a 2001 single cab Chevy. It's an awesome project! Gonna be kinda sad after it's built. Lol
Sweet! Yeah I get that feeling haha just means you'll have to start another build afterwards 😎 after this Dakota I'm tempted to build a Chevy avalanche just because I don't see many built
Brother break cleaner works better and is faster and vheaper then spider killer it also kilss them instantly aswell as wasps bees and anything that flys or crawls chears
lol good to know!
you should of left the thread,then raised it.
You mean leave the U bolts long and lift it with blocks? No. Lift blocks are for mall crawlers :D
damn i did know it was that easy to swap a axle, and 500 bucks with the disc setup holy shit i need to do this!