For smaller A.C. items that are 15 amps or less, they also have something called a line splitter, that you can usually buy at the same place you bought your clamp meter at. You plug the appliance into it, and then plug the splitter into the outlet, like your pigtail you made. Not expensive, and a good thing to keep with the meter.
Yes, thanks John. This was mentioned earlier in the comments and I’ve posted a link to a few. I have the Southwire, and it’s definitely handy for small loads.
Thanks a bunch! I just bought one to test the amp draw on my camper ac and found out you have to check individual wire to get a reading. Never even crossed my mind to do this. Glad i found your video!
New to RV’ing and subscriber to your channel. Thanks Steve for a good tutorial for the basics/beginners using this tool. Appreciate you taking the time to share.
Welcome, Geoff! I’m so glad you found my channel and getting useful information. Looking forward to hearing more from you…thanks for watching and commenting!
Worth to mention that most cheap clamp meters don't measure DC current, only AC, while they advertise it as AC/DC clamp meter. They all measure DC/AC voltage but not current flow. Almost just bought a cheap one and luckily realized from the symbols not having the DC current.
You're welcome; thanks for watching! Be sure to check out my newest video I released last week where I discus some more techniques with this meter. With this or any multimeter, it's a bit hard to check "battery health". This is usually performed as a "cold crank" tester which applies an artificial load to EACH battery individually, not in a series of connected batteries.
You do an excellent presentation. Can the EMS-PT50x be plugged into a generator to protect against voltage drop and if it shuts off is it one and done or reset capable. I like the Reliance Controls Ammeter and Wattmeter THP103 AmWatt Appliance Load Tester/Plug for testing basic 120V loads around the house but could use the meter in your video to test the LRA on my 5 ton and 4 ton.
Thank you, sir. The Progressive EMS can be used to provide the same protection from a generator as it would from a 50A shoreline. There are multiple protection features of the EMS-50 which are resettable. There is an internal circuit, like a fuse, that can be permanently destroyed on a massive voltage issue. Pretty rare to happen, but is the reason I like the external EMS box, rather than one built-in. If something "takes out" the external box, it's simple to replace and keep on going. Not so much if the unit is built-in.
Thanks for the video! If you could do one on testing a generator for output that would be helpful. Currently in post hurricane Puerto Rico and a generator is our only source of power. But I'd does not seem to be working as well as it used to.
Thank you for watching, Sudhir! I'm sorry for the situation you are in, and hope you get through it best possible. Rather than wait for a video to help you, let me explain how to test your generator right now. If you can make the pigtail I showed, even with a single extension cord, you can test the generator's amperage output. You can also use the meter to test the voltage from the generator's outlet. There's a possibilty that your regulator has gone bad; so your voltage has dropped. Being in a humid climate of PR, a generator needs to be run frequently under load, to help keep the stator dry. It's possible that the reason you feel the output isn't what it used to be, is becuase that part of the generator has become oxidized and less efficient. Hope this helps you.
Thanks for the review. I bought one before seeing this and it seems I made the right choice. I couldn’t figure out why I wasn’t getting a reading on the AC setting. Turns out you have to split the load. I didn’t know that but do now. I think I’ll buy a line splitter. My manual dexterity is such that I am sure I’d ruin the pig tail. Thanks again.
Glad I could help, John! Yup...a ammeter can only measure the current flowing in one direction. So, if you've got two conductors in the loop, they cancel each other out. Now...come on...do it...make the pigtail yourself. Just take it nice and slow; you'll be glad you did.
Really good video, nice explanations, love the display on the end of the meter as your right, impossible to read these things in tight spaces. Just bought a Fluke 325 for diagnosing parasitic DC drains, but it was a lot more expensive. Do you happen to know what the resolution on the Ideal clamp meter you used is?
Yes, you are absolutely correct, White is neutral! Forgive the "in the heat of the moment" slip, whereas I grabbed "A LEAD" and called it "hot"...DOH!! Good eye, and darn me for not catching that slip up. So hard to be so perfect on these, and over the past years, I spend a ton more time editing, and actually have SCRAPPED entire videos when I feel that they aren't perfectly accurate. Thank you very much for watching and commenting!
When you demonstrated checking your battery charger, you put the clamp meter over both positive and negative cable. I thought you had to put the clamp meter over one or the other and not both. I’m a newbie to a clamp meter so I apologize but am I missing something?
Thank you for watching. You are correct, the clamp MUST only be on one cable. Please watch carefully, again, and at 11:37 you’ll see me put it over the negative cable only.
Does the average RV'er even need a multimeter if they have this 61-747 clamp meter? It seems like it does basically everything a multimeter can do with respect to RV specific needs.
You have some parasitic draw on those batteries the way you measured the current considering you are plugged into shore power! Unless you the amp probe was clamped around the conductor in the reverse direction! Meaning you were charging at the stated rate. Good video! As a EE in the mid 70’s I got out of electronics in 1982 to fly airplanes for living, at that time DC clamp on meters did not exist. Having a DC and AC clamp on meter plus a VOM is great to have on an RV.
Thank you for watching and for your comments. There's no "parasitic draw", which as you know, would refer to an unknown source of drain when ALL THINGS ARE OFF. In the case of a Newell, not only is this impossible, but in my demonstration, the entire coach was powered up. So, the reefer, HVAC, computers, leveling, Spyder, network, leveling, compressors, and water pump were all on.
It's unfortunate that they advertise multimeters as AC/DC but are not capable of doing some of things with DC that you show in this video. Just a heads up to those who might be thinking of buying a claw meter. Isn't checking DC voltage very different than checking DC current?
Thanks for watching. Sounds like you may be confused. I’m not aware of any multimeter that doesn’t handle AC voltage and current as well as DC voltage and current. On a standard (non-clamp) meter current is measured by putting the probe IN-LINE, which isn’t always possible nor preferable. That’s why a clamp meter is invaluable in that it measures the current inductively. And yes, Voltage is analogous to “how much” water is in the tank, whereas current is the “GPM, rate of flow”. Hope this answers your questions.
Though you are mainly talking about the clamp capabilities, it is a bit misleading when you say the meter does not read voltage.... it will if you use the leads. Just saying! 😄
Yes, this was STRICTLY talking about the CLAMPMETER function of the meter, hence me specifically stating that function only is measuring amperage. Certainly hoping that’s not misleading, just isolating the topic. Thanks for watching.
@@RVSquaredSteve I don't know what he's talking about exactly, but the current loads of a car, diesel truck or RV are going to be north of 400-1000amps. I would be very careful about running 400amps into my $1100 iPhone or $900 Samsung. I have this meter and I came to your channel to learn more about it because in spite of being a software engineer and amateur welder and fabricator, electricity still confuses me. I think I over-think it sometimes and confuse myself. I'm fine with simple circuits in DC but as soon as I start dealing with complicated, multi-leg AC running at 240 volts, I lose my confidence. Which is maybe a good thing because those amps at that voltage kill you. So, better to be cautious than dead. But, this meter gets good reviews from lots of electricians and HVAC masters, so I would tend to disregard this guy's advice to buy a line splitter to run into your phone as a replacement for a class 3 clamp meter. That "TightSight" feature is nice too.
For smaller A.C. items that are 15 amps or less, they also have something called a line splitter, that you can usually buy at the same place you bought your clamp meter at. You plug the appliance into it, and then plug the splitter into the outlet, like your pigtail you made. Not expensive, and a good thing to keep with the meter.
Yes, thanks John. This was mentioned earlier in the comments and I’ve posted a link to a few. I have the Southwire, and it’s definitely handy for small loads.
Thanks a bunch! I just bought one to test the amp draw on my camper ac and found out you have to check individual wire to get a reading. Never even crossed my mind to do this. Glad i found your video!
@@bigrig. wonderful!! So glad it helped you!!
New to RV’ing and subscriber to your channel. Thanks Steve for a good tutorial for the basics/beginners using this tool. Appreciate you taking the time to share.
Welcome, Geoff! I’m so glad you found my channel and getting useful information. Looking forward to hearing more from you…thanks for watching and commenting!
Brother, it's a good video and good work. Thank you very much for your explanation that you gave us. I am very grateful. Thank you.
Very kind words, thank you very much!! I'm glad it helped you.
Worth to mention that most cheap clamp meters don't measure DC current, only AC, while they advertise it as AC/DC clamp meter. They all measure DC/AC voltage but not current flow. Almost just bought a cheap one and luckily realized from the symbols not having the DC current.
Really good point! Glad you caught the error before you needed it..nothing worse!
I just bought one and you have to look really good on the packaging to make sure it will read DC current.
Oh
RVs are A/C? Never owned one. But that amp clamp is A/C only
Nice hack - very useful!
Glad you think so! Hope you get use out of it.
Awesome ! I just bought one now in Lowe's but the 61-757 :-)
Great!!! You’re gonna love it. Thanks for watching. Check out the new clamp meter video I just did as well.
@@RVSquaredSteve I am going to take a look now !!
It was a helpful video. not too long. Helped me figure out the testing items to create for my business. I also bought that meter before this video.
Glad it helped you. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great tip. Thanks for the demo.
Glad it was helpful!
Informative! Thank you for this detailed review!
You’re welcome; glad you enjoyed!
Handy info. Thanks
Well thank you very much. I’m glad you found the info useful!
Just got one......love it....
Great, Bob…enjoy!!! Thanks for commenting.
Great presentation.
Thank you!
Thank you, great review
You’re welcome; thank you for watching and the compliment!
Thanks, bud..that was good👍
Thank you for watching!
@@RVSquaredSteve picked up a used Fluke..and didn’t really know how to apply the clamp feature…adding to the DIY arsenal…Thank you!
Thank YOU for watching! Glad you got set up.
😀👍🏿Good Stuff,GreatTips
Thanks for watching, Darryl!
great hack
Thanks! Works so great.
Good video!
Thank you for watching and your comment!
Thanks bro ,can you explain how to check battery health with this clamp meter? Thanks
You're welcome; thanks for watching! Be sure to check out my newest video I released last week where I discus some more techniques with this meter. With this or any multimeter, it's a bit hard to check "battery health". This is usually performed as a "cold crank" tester which applies an artificial load to EACH battery individually, not in a series of connected batteries.
Excellent video!!
Thank you very much!
great video. Thanks Don
Thank you, Don…appreciate you watching.
You do an excellent presentation. Can the EMS-PT50x be plugged into a generator to protect against voltage drop and if it shuts off is it one and done or reset capable. I like the Reliance Controls Ammeter and Wattmeter THP103 AmWatt Appliance Load Tester/Plug for testing basic 120V loads around the house but could use the meter in your video to test the LRA on my 5 ton and 4 ton.
Thank you, sir. The Progressive EMS can be used to provide the same protection from a generator as it would from a 50A shoreline. There are multiple protection features of the EMS-50 which are resettable. There is an internal circuit, like a fuse, that can be permanently destroyed on a massive voltage issue. Pretty rare to happen, but is the reason I like the external EMS box, rather than one built-in. If something "takes out" the external box, it's simple to replace and keep on going. Not so much if the unit is built-in.
Will your clamp measure voltage also? Your pigtail is a good idea.
Absolutely! It’s a full functioning Multi-meter and will measure AC/DC voltage, Resistance (ohms), as well as NFC for sensing live circuits!
Thanks for the video! If you could do one on testing a generator for output that would be helpful. Currently in post hurricane Puerto Rico and a generator is our only source of power. But I'd does not seem to be working as well as it used to.
Thank you for watching, Sudhir! I'm sorry for the situation you are in, and hope you get through it best possible.
Rather than wait for a video to help you, let me explain how to test your generator right now. If you can make the pigtail I showed, even with a single extension cord, you can test the generator's amperage output. You can also use the meter to test the voltage from the generator's outlet. There's a possibilty that your regulator has gone bad; so your voltage has dropped.
Being in a humid climate of PR, a generator needs to be run frequently under load, to help keep the stator dry. It's possible that the reason you feel the output isn't what it used to be, is becuase that part of the generator has become oxidized and less efficient.
Hope this helps you.
Thanks for the review. I bought one before seeing this and it seems I made the right choice. I couldn’t figure out why I wasn’t getting a reading on the AC setting. Turns out you have to split the load. I didn’t know that but do now. I think I’ll buy a line splitter. My manual dexterity is such that I am sure I’d ruin the pig tail. Thanks again.
Glad I could help, John! Yup...a ammeter can only measure the current flowing in one direction. So, if you've got two conductors in the loop, they cancel each other out. Now...come on...do it...make the pigtail yourself. Just take it nice and slow; you'll be glad you did.
Thanks for the review!! We subscribed!!❤
Wonderful! Thank you!
Really good video, nice explanations, love the display on the end of the meter as your right, impossible to read these things in tight spaces. Just bought a Fluke 325 for diagnosing parasitic DC drains, but it was a lot more expensive. Do you happen to know what the resolution on the Ideal clamp meter you used is?
61-747 is 4000 count display ...but get the new version at Lowes 61-757 which has a 6000 count display. I know because I own one and love it.
Thanks for the info Mike!
Thanks for watching; Mike answered your good question about resolution.
Great video.
Thanks Bryan! Appreciate you watching.
Awesome
Thank you!
Hey Brother, Isn't the white wire Neutral and the Black Hot? Anyway,,,,,,,,,, Awesome Video Sir!!!!!!!!!!! I like that Clamp Meter!!! God's Blessings!
Yes, you are absolutely correct, White is neutral! Forgive the "in the heat of the moment" slip, whereas I grabbed "A LEAD" and called it "hot"...DOH!! Good eye, and darn me for not catching that slip up. So hard to be so perfect on these, and over the past years, I spend a ton more time editing, and actually have SCRAPPED entire videos when I feel that they aren't perfectly accurate. Thank you very much for watching and commenting!
Is there an internal fuse for the test leads?
To be honest, I'm not really sure.. Sorry, but I don't have the manual with me.
When you demonstrated checking your battery charger, you put the clamp meter over both positive and negative cable. I thought you had to put the clamp meter over one or the other and not both. I’m a newbie to a clamp meter so I apologize but am I missing something?
Thank you for watching. You are correct, the clamp MUST only be on one cable. Please watch carefully, again, and at 11:37 you’ll see me put it over the negative cable only.
Does the average RV'er even need a multimeter if they have this 61-747 clamp meter? It seems like it does basically everything a multimeter can do with respect to RV specific needs.
Good question. People confuse the fact that this IS A FULL MULTIMETER, but with the ADDED feature of the clamp-meter.
You have some parasitic draw on those batteries the way you measured the current considering you are plugged into shore power! Unless you the amp probe was clamped around the conductor in the reverse direction! Meaning you were charging at the stated rate.
Good video! As a EE in the mid 70’s I got out of electronics in 1982 to fly airplanes for living, at that time DC clamp on meters did not exist. Having a DC and AC clamp on meter plus a VOM is great to have on an RV.
Thank you for watching and for your comments. There's no "parasitic draw", which as you know, would refer to an unknown source of drain when ALL THINGS ARE OFF. In the case of a Newell, not only is this impossible, but in my demonstration, the entire coach was powered up. So, the reefer, HVAC, computers, leveling, Spyder, network, leveling, compressors, and water pump were all on.
What model clamp meter and brand
Are you referring to what is on the video? All the info you need is in the Description.
When using my clamp meter to check for amps, it often gives me a negative value. Why is that so?
@@chimeziedickson5141 it’s just because you have the meter clamped the reverse way. Just flip it over. 👍
It's unfortunate that they advertise multimeters as AC/DC but are not capable of doing some of things with DC that you show in this video. Just a heads up to those who might be thinking of buying a claw meter. Isn't checking DC voltage very different than checking DC current?
Thanks for watching. Sounds like you may be confused. I’m not aware of any multimeter that doesn’t handle AC voltage and current as well as DC voltage and current. On a standard (non-clamp) meter current is measured by putting the probe IN-LINE, which isn’t always possible nor preferable. That’s why a clamp meter is invaluable in that it measures the current inductively. And yes, Voltage is analogous to “how much” water is in the tank, whereas current is the “GPM, rate of flow”.
Hope this answers your questions.
Though you are mainly talking about the clamp capabilities, it is a bit misleading when you say the meter does not read voltage.... it will if you use the leads. Just saying! 😄
Yes, this was STRICTLY talking about the CLAMPMETER function of the meter, hence me specifically stating that function only is measuring amperage. Certainly hoping that’s not misleading, just isolating the topic. Thanks for watching.
You know that for same money you can buy a line splitter that works just as well and can even connect to your phone.
@@RVSquaredSteve I don't know what he's talking about exactly, but the current loads of a car, diesel truck or RV are going to be north of 400-1000amps. I would be very careful about running 400amps into my $1100 iPhone or $900 Samsung. I have this meter and I came to your channel to learn more about it because in spite of being a software engineer and amateur welder and fabricator, electricity still confuses me. I think I over-think it sometimes and confuse myself. I'm fine with simple circuits in DC but as soon as I start dealing with complicated, multi-leg AC running at 240 volts, I lose my confidence. Which is maybe a good thing because those amps at that voltage kill you. So, better to be cautious than dead.
But, this meter gets good reviews from lots of electricians and HVAC masters, so I would tend to disregard this guy's advice to buy a line splitter to run into your phone as a replacement for a class 3 clamp meter. That "TightSight" feature is nice too.
@@WmSrite-pi8ck Fantastic reply! Totally agree. And you’re right to be cautious with even 110v because it can kill just as easily as 480v.