Thank you for this video. As a result, I was able to fix my Father-in-laws jack which was identical to this one. It was particularly satisfying as he died early last year. It’s nice to have this reminder of him The only problem I had was getting the main piston seal back into the internal cylinder. Rocking in back and forth did not work. I ended up using some advice for the HRCRnow parts site and boiled the seal for a while then inserted it in the cylinder to ‘shape it’. I then installed it, slipped on the ring and was able to get the piston back into the cylinder
Geat video flush with good guidance and in a nice sequncial flow. Mighty glad I saw yhis video. I have the same jack and after I'm guessing some 45+ years of owning the exact same jack...I'm having to do a full re-build. says something for the old Sears Craftsman tools. I've used the heck out of it and moved it across the country multiple times. Built "tougher than Woodpecker lips"! Its pretty much guaranteed that after my rebuild, it will outlast me! Thanks for the video, well done Ed.
Great video,You fully convinced me that my nearly 40 year old floor jack is now scrap.Off to Harbor freight for a new jack that might cost me less than that 2 ton Craftsman floor jack did.
@@EdHumble have you considered reforming / lapping the upper ball seat? Oh never mind ... you’re having the same discussion as A G in another comment reply.
I have an almost identical (orange coloured) Jack here in Oz. Mine stopped lifting altogether and the release valve would not shut off. After a few attempts I started to figure out just what the release valve was doing, I couldn’t find out how it worked or even what it was because when I took it apart I couldn’t find it . After a careful clean and with a bright light it started to dawn on me how the release valve worked i.e. a ball bearing clamps the oil flow off under the release valve screw , mine was either busted or lost( or both) so I tried a ball bearing that looked about right, (about 1/4 inch diameter) for the valve seat and bingo it worked perfectly. One thing to remember is that the release valve cog turns to the left to close it , you turn the handle to the right, the two cogs reverse the direction.
I'm one of those... hard to find mechanics, the regular ones call me when they get in a bind. Kinda like sending "The Wolf" Pos issue/ issues: *You Damaged the ram seal when you took it out (see time stamp 5:30 & on) or put back together *Spring you added may be a problem, contributing to it. *Check seal @ main outer jack tube (OD body) where it meets rectangular steel block (valve body) Rusted pin hole, O-ring damaged, poor weld. And no it may not leak oil if its high on the OD body. *Check threaded bolt holes in valve body, over drilled too deep with pin hole? Use pipe dope on threads when reassembling. *Inspect valve body and OD body very carefully while its off the jack, use magnifying glass and a good flashlight. * Internal inner tube, is it threaded to the valve body, loose it may suck high air. Be sure jack is filled with quality hydraulic oil. * Ball bearing and ball seat to all ball bearing check valves, weld ball to rod exactly in the center and hand/drill lap with fine 400 grit compound or higher for final lap run, depending on how deep you need to go. If only touch up or light damage get a half circle or ball carbide end mill bit or router bit of that size ball bearing and lightly run it backwards with a drill or drill press that has no runout, When lifting off feather it very slowly off the material. DO NOT run carbide bit forward, it will chatter and wreck the surface. To run forward you need a Bridgeport mill or other stable platform or lots and lots of experience with the bits manipulation. You may be able to run the bit forward by hand if your very steady and smooth. * Air ingestion issue may be caused by poorly sized O-rings, even when packaged by a major manufacturer for that application. a few thousands off and it will leak, bypass, suck or all the above. Ghina Quality control is non existent or just the pits these days and O-ring fitment gets very, and I mean super squirrelly fickle, a tiny bit off spec and while that O-ring looks perfect, fails miserably. Which could very well be your issue/issues. O-ring sizes from the same bin these days (same size) will vary up to 0.005" on tiny ones while up to 0.010"+ on the larger O-rings. Do not be deceived by this lately more and more common problem. I lean towards...its intentional... cause it is. Good luck, get into it again, employ these ideas and more to root out and defeat the demons in your jack. You can do it. Now get to work! ***the Wolf***
Thanks, I have a newer video out there. I employed a modified 3/8” Dia. 220 Grit grinding stone on the upper ball seat in that video. It improved the sealing, but not to stock status. I agree that an old check ball and a fine grinding compound would be the ultimate solution. All new O-Rings have been installed as in the second video. I can find no real evidence, EXCEPT for the below, that air entrapment is still an issue. Question: Why would pumping the jack to maximum height like you were venting air improve the seal? This to me screams air entrapment, but the jack pumping action does not confirm this.
While your idea of using a Bridgeport is the ultimate solution, paying for a machine shop to do the work pretty much justifies the cost of a new jack. I got it close now. I’ll continue to look for that exact ball size mandrel to use with valve lapping compound. Thanks for your expert input. You’re confirming my basic approach as limited by practical cost considerations.
@@EdHumble That's a good mystery, Both of these are a stretch but here goes. Based on the oblong custom shape of your grind stone which is way too coarse as you know, as you jack, jack, jack the spring wedges the ball for a better and better seal. Kinda worked & wiggled in there by the spring thru agitation. -AND OR- Possible thermal expansion. As you jack and jack and jack the ball/seat gets warm expanding something to make a better seal. BTW You should be able to tell if air is in the chamber two ways, you can hear it squirt and by feel, a slight sponginess when jacked up under no load when you push down on the lift pad however if its just a tiny amount its hard to tell this sponginess
@@EdHumble Lapping is low cost, possibly use an old engine push rod of the appropriate size, Just be sure its round. Actually what is the shape of the seat? is it a cone or a ball or what?? Having to jack to limit before use is unacceptable. We must find the solution, I insist!
@@surfsailor2003 Several Things Here: 1.) Since the Jack was made in China, the check ball is likely metric. That means I need a metric solution is required for a grinding stone or the same diameter tool as a mandrel. 2.) Welding a rod to an old check ball would be an option is one could do it in a fixture and the welder knew exactly what setting to use. Anything less would just create a chattering mess. 3.) The Seat of the ball is likely conical with rolled entry and exits. 4.) The best option at present would seem to be a felt tip buffing wheel and a Dremel coupled with 220 grit and maybe followed with 400 grit lapping/polishing compound. Still thinking...
I have the same floor jack 3258-12002 try to replace the actuator plunger and destroyed it. I think junk now. It was my father's inlaws and was hand down to me. I wish I could have got it fixed.
I have a jack I got at one of the parts stores about 35 yrs ago, looks 99% same as his. Lately it won't lift a load, if you jack it empty it goes up, then stand on it and it goes down. Started checking things and found mine does not have a spring on that particular valve either, never has so I was a bit puzzled cause till my problem I never had his problem. The other plug has a spring as it's a over pressure release. Mine acts like the handle won't fully close, still working on it.
@@mrfuel1866 Not yet, kinda set aside, got a new one. Quick lift low profile to fit under front of my el co. Did determine it's the seals in the ram. Am gonna fix it tho, been a great jack n it doesn't hurt to have 2.
Nice very concise vid. After watching your vid I thought you may be able to provide some guidance MVP F301 jack It was working but leaking oil like crazy through the pump shaft. When I removed the Actuator plunger It appears as if there is a spot at the bottom end for an O ring should there be? There is an O ring inside that cylinder about 1/2 in. down from the top but I can't seem to get it out any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
You’ll need to invest in a pick set. One that is “L” shaped with a turned up bottom of the L should be able to pull the O Ring. Usually there are two O rings with an O ring backer at the top. I don’t know the details of your jack, but measure plunger diameter and slot depth. You want the oring size just under the plunger diameter and the same size as the slot diameter.
@@EdHumble Thanks I only found one O ring inside the cylinder. Removed and replaced. seems not to be leaking any more so I will leave well enough alone!
My Sears 1 1/2 ton jack has a poured substance on top of that adjustment. I left it alone. The head of the screw had been blocked, during manufacture, for a reason. If it ain't broke......
Thanks for your effort and the advice. Each time I have some air when jacking. I hear it each time I loosen the filler plug and lower the jack. After a while there is so much air that she suddenly drops 20 cm. The seal on the ram is new and the 2 o rings of the press piston are also new. I don't know anymore? 🙏
@@EdHumble There was no spring in the check valve. In the gear to lower the jack there is also an o ring, has been replaced now. The plug of the check valve did not have a good seal as well as the one of the max pressure. 👌 Now it is ok
@@den.staar124 , I have a jack I got at one of the parts stores about 35 yrs ago, looks 99% same as his. Lately it won't lift a load, if you jack it empty it goes up, then stand on it and it goes down. Started checking things and found mine does not have a spring on that particular valve either, never has so I was a bit puzzled cause till my problem I never had his problem. The other plug has a spring as it's a over pressure release. Mine acts like the handle won't fully close, still working on it.
I've gone thru several iterations since this video. This device continues to cause endless frustration. There may be another video showing current lessons and tribulations.
@@EdHumble Tell me about it, I keep trying and keep thinking I got it but then it fails. I'm just not able to give up, but this is becoming foolish. I suspect I'll tear it all apart and find nothing wrong and all along it'll have been some dumb adjustment or something.
Thank you for the video Ed. Can you please tell me what the other screw is for on the other side of the ball valve you removed? Is that another ball valve? Thank you!
That's good. I measured my Sears jack ( part # 328.12002) power piston nut at 55.5 millimeter (2 3/16 inch). One would usually use a 56mm socket. That 55 mm socket may have had enough play (1/2 mm, or 0.020 inch) that it fit the nut tightly. Did you take the hydraulic cylinder with you, To the NAPA store, to check for the socket size?
As with most anything else, you get better the more of it you do. This is currently a Retirement "Giving Back" project. Making videos is not for the guy with two kids, a full time job, wife, and a mortgage. VERY TIME CONSUMING!! Also I'm a "Wanna be" Hollywood everything man in it just for fun.
Hi Ed, thanks for the video. Not sure if you were able to fix the issue yet but I was wondering if you have already tried cleaning the upper valve seat (with valve lapping compound) and reforming the seat or as a last resort using a slightly smaller steel ball (and reforming the seat).
Yes, I’ve tried cleaning the upper ball seat. No luck. I still think it is trapping air. Sometimes it holds. Sometimes it doesn’t. The quest continues.
A Dremel and the finest spherical 3/8” stone McMaster-Carr had. It didn’t make any difference what-so-ever. I still think it is leaking air. I don’t think the upper check ball not holding is the PRIMARY problem.
@@EdHumble a stone might not be fine enough. You might have to use fine lapping compound, or use a sacrificial ball and tap it into the seat with a hammer, to get a perfect seal. If the stiffer spring helped, the problem is definitely in the check valve, and either needs debris removed, or the seat trued
I'm trying to figure out a similar situation with an old heavy steel Olympia won't hold pressure with weight applied as if the handle won't fully tighten so disassembling it a 4th time to figure it out
Actually the problem persist to this day. Some days are better than others. Buy pumping the handle at maximum lift, it gets better. Current theory is that air is getting but the actuator on upstroke. The seal is new, so I’m definitely open to new ideas.
@@EdHumble The purpose of a video is to show people HOW TO FIX THINGS so...it's kind of dumb to make people lose their time watching your video that doesn't fix anything and worst, you said in the description "Here is how I corrected this dangerous condition." which is NOT TRUE. There are plenty of videos that are fixing problems so you may find how to fix yours by watching those videos.
@@new100bugs I currently agree with your point. At the time the video was made the issue was resolved. THE PROBLEM CAME BACK!! I think there is an air leak, but I can't find it I'm really asking for advice here. I've tried everything I can think of, but the problem remains. Yes, I'm open to your ideas. Do you have the same issue? If you find a video that corrects this issue, please post the link in these comments? The search continues.
I’m confused as to why you had to add a spring. One that wasn’t in the unit originally. In the original design, what was supposed to keep the balls down? I suspect that that ball assembly was a one way fluid valve. Fluid could move from the bottom of the hole to the top pushing the balls out of the way. But fluid could not flow in the other direction.
Couldn’t your problem simply have been dirt preventing the bottom ball from seating properly. Once you cleaned things up and filtered the fluid that could have been all the fix you needed?
Thank you for this video. As a result, I was able to fix my Father-in-laws jack which was identical to this one. It was particularly satisfying as he died early last year. It’s nice to have this reminder of him
The only problem I had was getting the main piston seal back into the internal cylinder. Rocking in back and forth did not work. I ended up using some advice for the HRCRnow parts site and boiled the seal for a while then inserted it in the cylinder to ‘shape it’. I then installed it, slipped on the ring and was able to get the piston back into the cylinder
Geat video flush with good guidance and in a nice sequncial flow. Mighty glad I saw yhis video. I have the same jack and after I'm guessing some 45+ years of owning the exact same jack...I'm having to do a full re-build. says something for the old Sears Craftsman tools. I've used the heck out of it and moved it across the country multiple times. Built "tougher than Woodpecker lips"! Its pretty much guaranteed that after my rebuild, it will outlast me! Thanks for the video, well done Ed.
Instablaster.
Great video,You fully convinced me that my nearly 40 year old floor jack is now scrap.Off to Harbor freight for a new jack that might cost me less than that 2 ton Craftsman floor jack did.
I fixed my air entrapment issues, but the top check ball is proving to be unfixable.
@@EdHumble have you considered reforming / lapping the upper ball seat? Oh never mind ... you’re having the same discussion as A G in another comment reply.
Literally one of the best servicing vids on youtube. Straight forward and well explained.
i have 3 ton craftsman floor jack w/ owner's manual. very poor parts diagram. this vid helped immensely with identifying parts. thanks
I have an almost identical (orange coloured) Jack here in Oz. Mine stopped lifting altogether and the release valve would not shut off. After a few attempts I started to figure out just what the release valve was doing, I couldn’t find out how it worked or even what it was because when I took it apart I couldn’t find it . After a careful clean and with a bright light it started to dawn on me how the release valve worked i.e. a ball bearing clamps the oil flow off under the release valve screw , mine was either busted or lost( or both) so I tried a ball bearing that looked about right, (about 1/4 inch diameter) for the valve seat and bingo it worked perfectly. One thing to remember is that the release valve cog turns to the left to close it , you turn the handle to the right, the two cogs reverse the direction.
I love the commentary.. It was like listening to my late father teaching me many years ago.. LOL
Thank you I fixed my old craftsman 3 ton jack I bought at a pawn shop for $40 using this video
THE BEST VIDEO hands down, thank u sir
I'm one of those... hard to find mechanics, the regular ones call me when they get in a bind. Kinda like sending "The Wolf"
Pos issue/ issues:
*You Damaged the ram seal when you took it out (see time stamp 5:30 & on) or put back together
*Spring you added may be a problem, contributing to it.
*Check seal @ main outer jack tube (OD body) where it meets rectangular steel block (valve body) Rusted pin hole, O-ring damaged, poor weld. And no it may not leak oil if its high on the OD body.
*Check threaded bolt holes in valve body, over drilled too deep with pin hole? Use pipe dope on threads when reassembling.
*Inspect valve body and OD body very carefully while its off the jack, use magnifying glass and a good flashlight.
* Internal inner tube, is it threaded to the valve body, loose it may suck high air. Be sure jack is filled with quality hydraulic oil.
* Ball bearing and ball seat to all ball bearing check valves, weld ball to rod exactly in the center and hand/drill lap with fine 400 grit compound or higher for final lap run, depending on how deep you need to go. If only touch up or light damage get a half circle or ball carbide end mill bit or router bit of that size ball bearing and lightly run it backwards with a drill or drill press that has no runout, When lifting off feather it very slowly off the material. DO NOT run carbide bit forward, it will chatter and wreck the surface. To run forward you need a Bridgeport mill or other stable platform or lots and lots of experience with the bits manipulation. You may be able to run the bit forward by hand if your very steady and smooth.
* Air ingestion issue may be caused by poorly sized O-rings, even when packaged by a major manufacturer for that application. a few thousands off and it will leak, bypass, suck or all the above. Ghina Quality control is non existent or just the pits these days and O-ring fitment gets very, and I mean super squirrelly fickle, a tiny bit off spec and while that O-ring looks perfect, fails miserably. Which could very well be your issue/issues. O-ring sizes from the same bin these days (same size) will vary up to 0.005" on tiny ones while up to 0.010"+ on the larger O-rings. Do not be deceived by this lately more and more common problem. I lean towards...its intentional... cause it is.
Good luck, get into it again, employ these ideas and more to root out and defeat the demons in your jack. You can do it. Now get to work!
***the Wolf***
Thanks, I have a newer video out there. I employed a modified 3/8” Dia. 220 Grit grinding stone on the upper ball seat in that video. It improved the sealing, but not to stock status. I agree that an old check ball and a fine grinding compound would be the ultimate solution.
All new O-Rings have been installed as in the second video. I can find no real evidence, EXCEPT for the below, that air entrapment is still an issue.
Question:
Why would pumping the jack to maximum height like you were venting air improve the seal? This to me screams air entrapment, but the jack pumping action does not confirm this.
While your idea of using a Bridgeport is the ultimate solution, paying for a machine shop to do the work pretty much justifies the cost of a new jack. I got it close now. I’ll continue to look for that exact ball size mandrel to use with valve lapping compound. Thanks for your expert input. You’re confirming my basic approach as limited by practical cost considerations.
@@EdHumble That's a good mystery, Both of these are a stretch but here goes. Based on the oblong custom shape of your grind stone which is way too coarse as you know, as you jack, jack, jack the spring wedges the ball for a better and better seal. Kinda worked & wiggled in there by the spring thru agitation. -AND OR- Possible thermal expansion. As you jack and jack and jack the ball/seat gets warm expanding something to make a better seal. BTW You should be able to tell if air is in the chamber two ways, you can hear it squirt and by feel, a slight sponginess when jacked up under no load when you push down on the lift pad however if its just a tiny amount its hard to tell this sponginess
@@EdHumble Lapping is low cost, possibly use an old engine push rod of the appropriate size, Just be sure its round. Actually what is the shape of the seat? is it a cone or a ball or what?? Having to jack to limit before use is unacceptable. We must find the solution, I insist!
@@surfsailor2003 Several Things Here:
1.) Since the Jack was made in China, the check ball is likely metric. That means I need a metric solution is required for a grinding stone or the same diameter tool as a mandrel.
2.) Welding a rod to an old check ball would be an option is one could do it in a fixture and the welder knew exactly what setting to use. Anything less would just create a chattering mess.
3.) The Seat of the ball is likely conical with rolled entry and exits.
4.) The best option at present would seem to be a felt tip buffing wheel and a Dremel coupled with 220 grit and maybe followed with 400 grit lapping/polishing compound.
Still thinking...
I have the same floor jack 3258-12002 try to replace the actuator plunger and destroyed it. I think junk now. It was my father's inlaws and was hand down to me. I wish I could have got it fixed.
Great video...Thanks for the info... subscribed😉
Gracias el mejor video de todos geacias sali del problema
'
i have one orange pump jackfloor and put 2 handles on the both side...
much help alot
Nice video. Flat side down? That is where the pressure is applied.
You dont need a bench vise to take off the top cylinder nut. Use the floor jack frame to hold the cylinder block. That is what I used.
Is speedy lift this same jack
I have a jack I got at one of the parts stores about 35 yrs ago, looks 99% same as his. Lately it won't lift a load, if you jack it empty it goes up, then stand on it and it goes down. Started checking things and found mine does not have a spring on that particular valve either, never has so I was a bit puzzled cause till my problem I never had his problem. The other plug has a spring as it's a over pressure release. Mine acts like the handle won't fully close, still working on it.
Did you fixed it buddy?
@@mrfuel1866 Not yet, kinda set aside, got a new one. Quick lift low profile to fit under front of my el co. Did determine it's the seals in the ram. Am gonna fix it tho, been a great jack n it doesn't hurt to have 2.
@@bradt.3555 thank you very much for replying buddy....i hope you can fix it..
You sound just like Hank from King of the Hill.
Thank you sir
Nice very concise vid. After watching your vid I thought you may be able to provide some guidance MVP F301 jack It was working but leaking oil like crazy through the pump shaft. When I removed the Actuator plunger It appears as if there is a spot at the bottom end for an O ring should there be? There is an O ring inside that cylinder about 1/2 in. down from the top but I can't seem to get it out any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
You’ll need to invest in a pick set. One that is “L” shaped with a turned up bottom of the L should be able to pull the O Ring. Usually there are two O rings with an O ring backer at the top. I don’t know the details of your jack, but measure plunger diameter and slot depth. You want the oring size just under the plunger diameter and the same size as the slot diameter.
@@EdHumble Thanks I only found one O ring inside the cylinder. Removed and replaced. seems not to be leaking any more so I will leave well enough alone!
great video, may i ask how you set the safety pressure valve? how do you know how many turns it took to set it properly?
thank you in advance
There is absolutely zero data on how to do that. Best just leave it alone. I just bottomed mine and backed off two turns as a guess.
I found the same thing Ed, thanks for your reply
My Sears 1 1/2 ton jack has a poured substance on top of that adjustment. I left it alone. The head of the screw had been blocked, during manufacture, for a reason. If it ain't broke......
Thanks for your effort and the advice. Each time I have some air when jacking. I hear it each time I loosen the filler plug and lower the jack. After a while there is so much air that she suddenly drops 20 cm. The seal on the ram is new and the 2 o rings of the press piston are also new. I don't know anymore? 🙏
The only place I can see air might enter is past the actuator piston. So far all my testing for this as an air leak location has been inconclusive.
@@EdHumble There was no spring in the check valve. In the gear to lower the jack there is also an o ring, has been replaced now. The plug of the check valve did not have a good seal as well as the one of the max pressure. 👌
Now it is ok
@@den.staar124 , I have a jack I got at one of the parts stores about 35 yrs ago, looks 99% same as his. Lately it won't lift a load, if you jack it empty it goes up, then stand on it and it goes down. Started checking things and found mine does not have a spring on that particular valve either, never has so I was a bit puzzled cause till my problem I never had his problem. The other plug has a spring as it's a over pressure release. Mine acts like the handle won't fully close, still working on it.
You added, or replaced that spring in the check valve? Is there oil in there?
I've gone thru several iterations since this video. This device continues to cause endless frustration. There may be another video showing current lessons and tribulations.
@@EdHumble Tell me about it, I keep trying and keep thinking I got it but then it fails. I'm just not able to give up, but this is becoming foolish. I suspect I'll tear it all apart and find nothing wrong and all along it'll have been some dumb adjustment or something.
Thank you for the video Ed. Can you please tell me what the other screw is for on the other side of the ball valve you removed? Is that another ball valve? Thank you!
That adjust the maximum pressure the jack can tolerate. Best to leave that one alone.
A 55mm wheel bearing socket can spin that power unit nut off. I got it at the local NAPA store for $20.
That's good. I measured my Sears jack ( part # 328.12002) power piston nut at 55.5 millimeter (2 3/16 inch). One would usually use a 56mm socket. That 55 mm socket may have had enough play (1/2 mm, or 0.020 inch) that it fit the nut tightly. Did you take the hydraulic cylinder with you, To the NAPA store, to check for the socket size?
Great looking content. Assume you did a great deal of your very own coding.
As with most anything else, you get better the more of it you do.
This is currently a Retirement "Giving Back" project. Making videos is not for the guy with two kids, a full time job, wife, and a mortgage. VERY TIME CONSUMING!!
Also I'm a "Wanna be" Hollywood everything man in it just for fun.
Did you replace the piston seal
Yes, but I’m thinking that still could be the issue.
Nice video especially the chick ball valve. is the same for all craftsman's jack ?
I have no way of knowing. Some jacks use spring loaded checks. Most use balls.
Hi Ed, thanks for the video. Not sure if you were able to fix the issue yet but I was wondering if you have already tried cleaning the upper valve seat (with valve lapping compound) and reforming the seat or as a last resort using a slightly smaller steel ball (and reforming the seat).
Yes, I’ve tried cleaning the upper ball seat. No luck. I still think it is trapping air. Sometimes it holds. Sometimes it doesn’t. The quest continues.
@@EdHumble Do you mind sharing what did you use to clean the upper seat? Did you re-form the seat after cleaning? Let me know if you figure it out!
A Dremel and the finest spherical 3/8” stone McMaster-Carr had. It didn’t make any difference what-so-ever. I still think it is leaking air. I don’t think the upper check ball not holding is the PRIMARY problem.
I had a new check ball. No improvement. I had the old check ball. No change. Yep, one frustrating problem to try and fix. If I solve it, I’ll post it.
@@EdHumble a stone might not be fine enough. You might have to use fine lapping compound, or use a sacrificial ball and tap it into the seat with a hammer, to get a perfect seal. If the stiffer spring helped, the problem is definitely in the check valve, and either needs debris removed, or the seat trued
I'm trying to figure out a similar situation with an old heavy steel Olympia won't hold pressure with weight applied as if the handle won't fully tighten so disassembling it a 4th time to figure it out
Replace the main piston seal.
@@EdHumble that one ring looked ok too... figures my luck ty
In this case all that was wrong was that the spring got weak over the years? Was that it?
Actually the problem persist to this day. Some days are better than others. Buy pumping the handle at maximum lift, it gets better. Current theory is that air is getting but the actuator on upstroke. The seal is new, so I’m definitely open to new ideas.
@@EdHumble The purpose of a video is to show people HOW TO FIX THINGS so...it's kind of dumb to make people lose their time watching your video that doesn't fix anything and worst, you said in the description "Here is how I corrected this dangerous condition." which is NOT TRUE. There are plenty of videos that are fixing problems so you may find how to fix yours by watching those videos.
@@new100bugs
I currently agree with your point. At the time the video was made the issue was resolved.
THE PROBLEM CAME BACK!!
I think there is an air leak, but I can't find it
I'm really asking for advice here. I've tried everything I can think of, but the problem remains. Yes, I'm open to your ideas. Do you have the same issue? If you find a video that corrects this issue, please post the link in these comments? The search continues.
I’m confused as to why you had to add a spring. One that wasn’t in the unit originally. In the original design, what was supposed to keep the balls down? I suspect that that ball assembly was a one way fluid valve. Fluid could move from the bottom of the hole to the top pushing the balls out of the way. But fluid could not flow in the other direction.
Couldn’t your problem simply have been dirt preventing the bottom ball from seating properly. Once you cleaned things up and filtered the fluid that could have been all the fix you needed?
The spring was a kluge. The jack is trapping air somehow. The original jack had no spring. This jack has been my mystery problem for some time now.
@@EdHumble what does a Kluge mean?
nighttrain022 According to Google it means a “workaround or a quick and dirty solution”
@@hullinstruments Thank you Hull Guitars. I had never seen that word before.
Wouldn't it be a good idea to buy a rebuild kit and put new parts in it?
Yes, I installed just such a kit, but issues remain.
Good
Good vid. Now can you please say “I sell propane and propane accessories”?
This video just story how to open the piston.. What's is the problem fix u solved