Excellent show & tell on the approach and process of cold molding! You’re a true artist. And you viewers out there - he‘s not doing this for a customer meaning it’s an unpaid labour for us. Thank you Dan for your time!
Don't worry about the length of the video - this was a brilliant demonstration of the technique for cold molding. Looking forward to the next episodes.
The wing of the Dehavilland DH88 Comet is built this way. Is it god for aircraft wings its god for a boat. LOL The DH88 was built for the "MacRobertson" England to Australia air race of 1934.
Stands to reason if there is a cold moulding there must be a hot moulding or else it would just be "moulding". I purchased my boat 30 years ago and am now restoring it (perhaps after completion it will be "her"). Its much different. Its a 59 Penn Yan Atlantic 18 runabout and I just removed the transom. The planking is 4.8 mm red cedar by 90mm on the inside and 5mm by 13mm white oak on the outside. They are sandwiched around some vulcanized material between them. I'm sure it was done with heat. There are steam bent oak ribs to which brass nailed. There were 398 brass nails holding the transom on (counting was nothing compare to pulling). I just now pulled them out of the vinegar I used to clean them. You would probably be interested in the way it was done. Its different. Almost the exact boat is in Glenn Curtiss museum in Hammondsport New York. It made it to their web page. I'd like to fiberglass the outside of the hull up to the waterline board. There are too many opinions on the subject. I think it can be done. I've watched at least 6 of your videos and I ordered that Gougeon Brothers book. Thank you very much for all of your videos. The one where you toured that epoxy plant sounded like it was written by a lawyer. lol. I had to rewatch a few areas 4 or five times-especially around the elongation parameters. I, at first, misunderstood where you mentioned the 3 types of builds (one being cold mounlding) as the subject of that section wasn't the types but more the joints of acceptable tolerances in those types. I would be interested in a video of the G-flex with 30% elongation before failure. I'd bet you would get tons of views with the right title. Thanks again.
There is a hot moulding process, this was used a great deal following on from World War II by some plane manufacturers that then turned to building boats. Most notably in the UK, Fairey Marine. The boats were often laid up and then baked in large ovens. With the advancement of better glues such as epoxy that could set effectively at room temperatures there isn't such a need for hot moulding these days. Some people, particularly in the composites world, undertake post curing which is a similar heating process thats necessary for some epoxies. Your boat sounds lovely, quite possibly one of the earlier hot moulded hulls by the sounds of it. Glassing an old wood hull is a topic of controversy for sure, there are a lot of factors that need to be considered which was the reason for me making the epoxy coating video. I scripted the wording for the epoxy video many times and worked over it with two guys from West System as I wanted to make sure it was all factually correct. For boats like yours, glassing would typically be done to offer abrasion resistance to the outside and prevent trailer damage etc. Great to hear that you have enjoyed the videos 👍
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding I do not want to thank you for your gracious reply by having you read a long winded statement from some old guy. Permit me to say that I see many great qualities in you.
Great video, and as always, I love the music. I recently finished the bottom and sides of a 27 cold molded off-shore boat with a bow described as the “Carolina Flair” which has significant (and rather sexy) outward curves. The designer specified two layers of 6 mm marine ply laid cross diagonally for the topsides. At the curvy forward end the individual planks are 6 - 8 “ which allows for plenty of flex and makes those curves possible. It seems your boat could easily be constructed out of varying widths of a quality marine ply. I am not taking into account the differences in price, and certainly it is more enjoyable to spile solid lumber than ply with hand tools. If Temptress had been available at the time I started this current build, no doubt I would have gone with her design. Beautiful boat.
Nice work Lee. The only thing I would do different is the 45 degree planks you are using for cold molding as opposed to the marine ply sheet especially on the flat part at the stern. many advantages in using big sheets also. first is less room for leaks between seems (and less room for delaminating glass on top of it). most planing hulls by chris craft were built like this in the past.... Torsion is absolutely not an issue since it is glassed at the end.
Yes ply could be used but isn't quite as good for long term longevity as a proper cold moulded bottom for the reasons I summarise at 8:45. The glass would not do a great deal for strength and would mostly be offering abrasion resistance for the bottom.
The full size boat plans are £1250 and I also do a reduced detail plan set for just building models that is £40. The plan set I am working from in these videos is the full size plans, scaled of course.
Wonder if you used Three or Four layers of thin ( 1/4 inch )plywood at 45 degree angles epoxied together or even sandwich thin fiberglass mat in between the angled plywood ???
You could do but I personally wouldn't. Glass matt in between layers would add stiffness but it would induce a lot more weight into the boat as well. The primary need for the glass will be on the outside of the hull for abrasion resistance of the bottom.
You could do, it certainly wouldn't hurt, it would probably add an amount of stiffness to the hull. It would add a fair amount of additional weight to the boat though and would use a lot more epoxy. I personally don't think it would be worth doing, the primary reason for adding glass to the outside afterwards is to create a more abrasion resistant layer to the bottom.
Excellent show & tell on the approach and process of cold molding! You’re a true artist. And you viewers out there - he‘s not doing this for a customer meaning it’s an unpaid labour for us. Thank you Dan for your time!
Glad you enjoyed it, I do earn a little bit from videos but I’m definitely doing it for less than minimum wage 😆
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding 🤣
Don't worry about the length of the video - this was a brilliant demonstration of the technique for cold molding. Looking forward to the next episodes.
Glad you enjoyed it
Well done. Can't wait for the upcoming videos in this series.
Sunday morning coffee: check!.....Sunday morning video from Dan: check!
The wing of the Dehavilland DH88 Comet is built this way. Is it god for aircraft wings its god for a boat. LOL The DH88 was built for the "MacRobertson" England to Australia air race of 1934.
Great I built an 8ft cold molded pram back when Gougeon Brothers had plans for one There was a lot of scribing Since it had a curved hull
Great video. Thanks!
Really good explanation of the cold molding process. I’ve never seen cold molding done before so that was quite interesting.
So rewarding to see it come together 👌
Stands to reason if there is a cold moulding there must be a hot moulding or else it would just be "moulding".
I purchased my boat 30 years ago and am now restoring it (perhaps after completion it will be "her"). Its much different. Its a 59 Penn Yan Atlantic 18 runabout and I just removed the transom. The planking is 4.8 mm red cedar by 90mm on the inside and 5mm by 13mm white oak on the outside. They are sandwiched around some vulcanized material between them. I'm sure it was done with heat. There are steam bent oak ribs to which brass nailed. There were 398 brass nails holding the transom on (counting was nothing compare to pulling). I just now pulled them out of the vinegar I used to clean them. You would probably be interested in the way it was done. Its different. Almost the exact boat is in Glenn Curtiss museum in Hammondsport New York. It made it to their web page.
I'd like to fiberglass the outside of the hull up to the waterline board. There are too many opinions on the subject. I think it can be done. I've watched at least 6 of your videos and I ordered that Gougeon Brothers book.
Thank you very much for all of your videos. The one where you toured that epoxy plant sounded like it was written by a lawyer. lol. I had to rewatch a few areas 4 or five times-especially around the elongation parameters. I, at first, misunderstood where you mentioned the 3 types of builds (one being cold mounlding) as the subject of that section wasn't the types but more the joints of acceptable tolerances in those types. I would be interested in a video of the G-flex with 30% elongation before failure. I'd bet you would get tons of views with the right title.
Thanks again.
There is a hot moulding process, this was used a great deal following on from World War II by some plane manufacturers that then turned to building boats. Most notably in the UK, Fairey Marine. The boats were often laid up and then baked in large ovens. With the advancement of better glues such as epoxy that could set effectively at room temperatures there isn't such a need for hot moulding these days. Some people, particularly in the composites world, undertake post curing which is a similar heating process thats necessary for some epoxies.
Your boat sounds lovely, quite possibly one of the earlier hot moulded hulls by the sounds of it. Glassing an old wood hull is a topic of controversy for sure, there are a lot of factors that need to be considered which was the reason for me making the epoxy coating video. I scripted the wording for the epoxy video many times and worked over it with two guys from West System as I wanted to make sure it was all factually correct. For boats like yours, glassing would typically be done to offer abrasion resistance to the outside and prevent trailer damage etc.
Great to hear that you have enjoyed the videos 👍
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding I do not want to thank you for your gracious reply by having you read a long winded statement from some old guy. Permit me to say that I see many great qualities in you.
Best
Been patiently waiting for this stage to start, well done Dan, great video, very informative and much enjoyed, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Another fantastic episode, thanks Dan!
Thanks!
Love it,i could watch this for hours,next layer vacume bag yes please.😁cheers from oz.
Where do you get planks, do you make them or are the sold at that thickness?
I cut them myself on the bandsaw and then size them on the drum sander.
Great video, and as always, I love the music. I recently finished the bottom and sides of a 27 cold molded off-shore boat with a bow described as the “Carolina Flair” which has significant (and rather sexy) outward curves. The designer specified two layers of 6 mm marine ply laid cross diagonally for the topsides. At the curvy forward end the individual planks are 6 - 8 “ which allows for plenty of flex and makes those curves possible. It seems your boat could easily be constructed out of varying widths of a quality marine ply. I am not taking into account the differences in price, and certainly it is more enjoyable to spile solid lumber than ply with hand tools. If Temptress had been available at the time I started this current build, no doubt I would have gone with her design. Beautiful boat.
I can picture that Carolina Flair now, it really adds a lovely look to boats. I can imagine that looks stunning in wood. That must take some spiling!
Nice shirt
😜
Nice work Lee. The only thing I would do different is the 45 degree planks you are using for cold molding as opposed to the marine ply sheet especially on the flat part at the stern. many advantages in using big sheets also. first is less room for leaks between seems (and less room for delaminating glass on top of it). most planing hulls by chris craft were built like this in the past.... Torsion is absolutely not an issue since it is glassed at the end.
Yes ply could be used but isn't quite as good for long term longevity as a proper cold moulded bottom for the reasons I summarise at 8:45. The glass would not do a great deal for strength and would mostly be offering abrasion resistance for the bottom.
goodnight. Where can I buy this mini planer?
It is made by Veritas. I bought mine from Axminster tools: www.axminstertools.com/
Another excellent presentation. Length is fine. Could watch all night. Thanks again.
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Are there plans to turn any of the other boat designs in to RC?
Yes I'll probably do the slipper launch next but I'm not sure when that will be as things are quite busy here at the moment. It's on the list though.
Hi Dan, what is the thickness of each plank?
1,5mm was mentioned somewhere during this video.
Is the thickness of the planking to scale as well? What is the thickness you used? Looks 2 mm.
Yes, I’m using 1.5mm planks. Full size would be 6mm.
Thank you. This is an outstanding project.
How much would it cost for your plans
The full size boat plans are £1250 and I also do a reduced detail plan set for just building models that is £40. The plan set I am working from in these videos is the full size plans, scaled of course.
Wonder if you used Three or Four layers of thin ( 1/4 inch )plywood at 45 degree angles epoxied together or even sandwich thin fiberglass mat in between the angled plywood ???
You could do but I personally wouldn't. Glass matt in between layers would add stiffness but it would induce a lot more weight into the boat as well. The primary need for the glass will be on the outside of the hull for abrasion resistance of the bottom.
Dan, on the full scale, I had the thought of putting something like a 1/2 oz glass cloth in between each layer of planking. Your thoughts?
You could do, it certainly wouldn't hurt, it would probably add an amount of stiffness to the hull. It would add a fair amount of additional weight to the boat though and would use a lot more epoxy. I personally don't think it would be worth doing, the primary reason for adding glass to the outside afterwards is to create a more abrasion resistant layer to the bottom.
Great video Dan I’m learning so much can’t wait to start my model and then eventually the full sized version
Great to hear! I'm looking forward to seeing some more of these boats getting built.
Interesting content but way to much talking