I just ordered a replacement Wx-250. Our original wx-250 was manufactured in 10/1972. It's just leaking a bit but still works. I will retire it on it's 50th birthday. Amtrol is pretty awesome.
Thank you. This adds to my confidence in my, to be installed well-x-troll 202 Tank, just received. After 3 Box store tank failures in 13 years we decided to go for top rating over cost. If ours last over 1/2 the age of yours I will be thrilled!
A lot of people, including professionals replace these tanks for the reason you describe when all they need is to be recharged with proper air pressure.
Very nice yard! ☺ I was wonderig what the tanks looked like inside so thanks for sharing your video. You are lucky to have both water sources. I'm in a subdivision where everybody is on well water so the closest city water is more than a half-mile away and would cost a fortune to have it run to my place. it would have the meter set at the main Highway and would have to run through everybody's yard until it got to my place. Certainly not something that is doable. So again you are very lucky. I have had the same WellXtrol brand (but 44 gallon size) for 30 years. Just now having problems with it and will replace with same brand. Well pump was replaced in 2013 due to lightning strike. Who knows... it might've still worked had the storm left it alone. Hope you had no other problems. I've had major water related stuff since 2013. In 2015 my home flooded and I had to live in a hotel for 2 months due to hot water heater being ruined/bursting from debris (roots) filling it up from my well. I have a video on TH-cam showing how bad the roots were coming in because I do not have a well liner and roots cracked my casing of my drilled well. I have so many home repair problems I can't afford. I just need a NEW, decent, place to live! LOL!
The bottom of the tank has a plastic liner, and the butyl rubber diaphragm is made in the shape of the liner. In the video the diaphragm isn’t easy to see because it matches the shape of the lower part of tank. So water will push the bottom of the diaphragm up into the tank against the air pressure in the upper portion of the tank.
Just saw your comment. To cut the tank in half, I first drilled a 3/4" hole in the middle of the side, then I took a recoprocal saw, put it into the hole and cut the tank all the way around the tank. Thanks for your question.
Stephen Mauro I did not check the bladder under load. The reason why is because the brass inlet at the bottom this tank was completely plugged with sediment. Rather than trying to fix this 20+ year old pressure tank, I opted to just replace it. Thanks for you comment.
your very good at landscaping nice yard. I am on a well. And today I went to put salt in my softener, which is in the same little house as my pressure tank I discovered my pressure tank is leaking water on its bottom. It is a constant spray for the bottom. Though I can't see the leak because its a tight fit in the little house. But when I place a mirror in the lower opening . its not long before it is entirely wet. You brought up a point about rust causing the failure. Was rust ever apparent in your water supply?
Thanks for your question. Yes, rust was an issue with my well when I first bought my home back in 1991. After seeing the damage to my appliances, sinks and clothes (when washed) I immediately installed an iron filter. As I recall, it was around $1,000 for the entire system and I did all the installation work myself. Since it's installation, rust has not been an issue. I hope this helps.
Your tank did not go bad. Your fitting got plugged, so there was no water storage in the tank. So your pump turned on everytime you turned on the water in your house. You might have been able to fish out that 90 degree angle, but you probably did the right thing replacong it. I replaced the same water tank you have a couple years ago, and that same ditting started to leak. Also, the city water supply is intentionally contaminated with flouride. I would switch your water piping in your house so you drink your well water and water your yard with the ciity water... it is healthy for yourself, and you won't be poisoning yourself. Why do you think they are forcing you to drink their water??? Come on, really?. As soon as that inspector left, I would have been installing cross over lines with valves.
Actually, I drilled a 1/2" hole in the side of the tank and used that as a starting point for my reciprocal saw and cut the tank in half. I already knew the tank's bladder had failed because water was spraying out the air inlet value on the top of the tank. However, I always wanted to see what the inside of a pressure tank looked like. Thanks for watching.
These are pre charged tanks ........you could've simply added 30 lbs of air in the top of it and replaced a few rusty fittings. Next time save yourself time and money and call a professional..also your cut on pressure needs to be raised to 40 lbs.
@@twobitsmith1 Thank you for your comment; however, I disagree for a few reasons. 1) When I decided to replace my tank, it was already past its life expectancy. Also, if I would have put 30lbs of additional pressure into the tank, all that would have done is buy me a little more time because the bladder had still failed, not to mention putting additional PSI, beyond MFG specifications would have been a major safety issue. 2) About 20 years ago, my brother called a "professional" to address a water pressure issue he was having in his home (he too has a private well and a pressure tank). My brother told me the guy came out to his home & disconnected the pressure tank's in/out pipe (at the base of the tank) & saw that the bladder had shreaded inside the tank leaving rubber remnants jammed in this in/out pipe. He told my brother he would save him a lot of money by simply pulling out the rubber remnants with needle nose pliers (yep, that's right) and then he went on to do exactly what you suggested, pumping more pressure into the tank. That solution cost him $200 and it lasted about 2 weeks before more rubber remnants that were still in the tank plugged the in/out pipe again. I also know that by doing that will not result in "good" water pressure and besides, you are also making your well pump work that much harder, shortening its life. After hearing what that "professional" did, I went to the local Menards bought a new tank & parts and then installed everything for him. That was about 20 years ago and that tank I put in is still functioning just fine with no issues. 3) Nothing personal; however, the 2 times I have used a professional to address something in my home (over a 30 year period) those two guys should have their licence pulled (one was an HVAC idiot and the other was a plumbing crook who now has an F rating by the BBB. Just my opinion.
@@1999Shortstuff THIS BLADDER DID NOT FAIL...............When the tanks precharged air leaks out of it like it can do over a long period of time , you simply add the air back to it. It comes precharged with around 32 lbs of air. I did not say to add 30 lbs of air on top of that. You simply shut the power off to your pump/motor and drain the water pressure out of it . Then you use an air gauge to check the air pressure in your tank. If it is low you add back the air that it needs....Sometimes you have to run the compressor a long time to push existing or trapped water out of the tank before it will start to read the correct air pressure. The rusty fittings are due to a lower ph water that is more acidic . You probably have a shallow well and needed to have a deeper one that will have a more neutral ph without all the high iron content.Your brother probably called a plumber instead of a well tech., but nevertheless he was wrong in his recommendation . If the bladder starts to fail and come apart you replace the tank end of story unless it ''the actual bladder bag'' is replaceable which it was not in this brand tank. His recommendation would cause the cycle to be a short one which would overheat and eventually burn up his pumps motor....If you still do not understand what I am telling you , let me know which part so I can explain it better to you. At least a quarter of my annual revenue comes from's my customers being misinformed by on-line information diy who have no clue about what they are doing or know just enough to be dangerous. Believe me it costs them more in the long run.
I just ordered a replacement Wx-250. Our original wx-250 was manufactured in 10/1972. It's just leaking a bit but still works. I will retire it on it's 50th birthday. Amtrol is pretty awesome.
50 years of service sure says a lot about the quality of these presure tanks.
Thank you. This adds to my confidence in my, to be installed well-x-troll 202 Tank, just received. After 3 Box store tank failures in 13 years we decided to go for top rating over cost. If ours last over 1/2 the age of yours I will be thrilled!
Thanks, wanted to see how the bladder looks in these.
A lot of people, including professionals replace these tanks for the reason you describe when all they need is to be recharged with proper air pressure.
Or cut open and turned into something fabulous. ?
I would assume that it may be a good idea to shut the power to the well and flush the out the tank once a year to avoid the buildup of the rust.
Nice work guy. ! More dynamite and whiskey will stop loud frog chatter. !
Very nice yard! ☺ I was wonderig what the tanks looked like inside so thanks for sharing your video. You are lucky to have both water sources. I'm in a subdivision where everybody is on well water so the closest city water is more than a half-mile away and would cost a fortune to have it run to my place. it would have the meter set at the main Highway and would have to run through everybody's yard until it got to my place. Certainly not something that is doable. So again you are very lucky. I have had the same WellXtrol brand (but 44 gallon size) for 30 years. Just now having problems with it and will replace with same brand. Well pump was replaced in 2013 due to lightning strike. Who knows... it might've still worked had the storm left it alone. Hope you had no other problems. I've had major water related stuff since 2013. In 2015 my home flooded and I had to live in a hotel for 2 months due to hot water heater being ruined/bursting from debris (roots) filling it up from my well. I have a video on TH-cam showing how bad the roots were coming in because I do not have a well liner and roots cracked my casing of my drilled well. I have so many home repair problems I can't afford. I just need a NEW, decent, place to live! LOL!
Nice yard, makes my yard look like a dump. No, I make my yard look like a dump.
Dude, great video. Big help, Thanks.
Thanks. Glad to help!
so water goes into the bladder I assume?
The bottom of the tank has a plastic liner, and the butyl rubber diaphragm is made in the shape of the liner. In the video the diaphragm isn’t easy to see because it matches the shape of the lower part of tank. So water will push the bottom of the diaphragm up into the tank against the air pressure in the upper portion of the tank.
Hellp CPL, I have two pressure tanks to replace. I am looking to repurpose them. How did u cut this tank? The cut is perfectly clean.
Just saw your comment. To cut the tank in half, I first drilled a 3/4" hole in the middle of the side, then I took a recoprocal saw, put it into the hole and cut the tank all the way around the tank. Thanks for your question.
DID you hook up a water line to see the blater expand?
Stephen Mauro I did not check the bladder under load. The reason why is because the brass inlet at the bottom this tank was completely plugged with sediment. Rather than trying to fix this 20+ year old pressure tank, I opted to just replace it. Thanks for you comment.
your very good at landscaping nice yard. I am on a well. And today I went to put salt in my softener, which is in the same little house as my pressure tank I discovered my pressure tank is leaking water on its bottom. It is a constant spray for the bottom. Though I can't see the leak because its a tight fit in the little house. But when I place a mirror in the lower opening . its not long before it is entirely wet. You brought up a point about rust causing the failure. Was rust ever apparent in your water supply?
Thanks for your question. Yes, rust was an issue with my well when I first bought my home back in 1991. After seeing the damage to my appliances, sinks and clothes (when washed) I immediately installed an iron filter. As I recall, it was around $1,000 for the entire system and I did all the installation work myself. Since it's installation, rust has not been an issue. I hope this helps.
So is californias water
Your tank did not go bad. Your fitting got plugged, so there was no water storage in the tank. So your pump turned on everytime you turned on the water in your house. You might have been able to fish out that 90 degree angle, but you probably did the right thing replacong it. I replaced the same water tank you have a couple years ago, and that same ditting started to leak.
Also, the city water supply is intentionally contaminated with flouride. I would switch your water piping in your house so you drink your well water and water your yard with the ciity water... it is healthy for yourself, and you won't be poisoning yourself. Why do you think they are forcing you to drink their water??? Come on, really?. As soon as that inspector left, I would have been installing cross over lines with valves.
Did you use a grinder to cut the tank open with or how did you cut it in half?
Actually, I drilled a 1/2" hole in the side of the tank and used that as a starting point for my reciprocal saw and cut the tank in half. I already knew the tank's bladder had failed because water was spraying out the air inlet value on the top of the tank. However, I always wanted to see what the inside of a pressure tank looked like. Thanks for watching.
Turn mine into a smoker !
Brautigan. .
These are pre charged tanks ........you could've simply added 30 lbs of air in the top of it and replaced a few rusty fittings. Next time save yourself time and money and call a professional..also your cut on pressure needs to be raised to 40 lbs.
@@twobitsmith1 Thank you for your comment; however, I disagree for a few reasons.
1) When I decided to replace my tank, it was already past its life expectancy. Also, if I would have put 30lbs of additional pressure into the tank, all that would have done is buy me a little more time because the bladder had still failed, not to mention putting additional PSI, beyond MFG specifications would have been a major safety issue.
2) About 20 years ago, my brother called a "professional" to address a water pressure issue he was having in his home (he too has a private well and a pressure tank). My brother told me the guy came out to his home & disconnected the pressure tank's in/out pipe (at the base of the tank) & saw that the bladder had shreaded inside the tank leaving rubber remnants jammed in this in/out pipe. He told my brother he would save him a lot of money by simply pulling out the rubber remnants with needle nose pliers (yep, that's right) and then he went on to do exactly what you suggested, pumping more pressure into the tank. That solution cost him $200 and it lasted about 2 weeks before more rubber remnants that were still in the tank plugged the in/out pipe again. I also know that by doing that will not result in "good" water pressure and besides, you are also making your well pump work that much harder, shortening its life. After hearing what that "professional" did, I went to the local Menards bought a new tank & parts and then installed everything for him. That was about 20 years ago and that tank I put in is still functioning just fine with no issues.
3) Nothing personal; however, the 2 times I have used a professional to address something in my home (over a 30 year period) those two guys should have their licence pulled (one was an HVAC idiot and the other was a plumbing crook who now has an F rating by the BBB. Just my opinion.
@@1999Shortstuff THIS BLADDER DID NOT FAIL...............When the tanks precharged air leaks out of it like it can do over a long period of time , you simply add the air back to it. It comes precharged with around 32 lbs of air. I did not say to add 30 lbs of air on top of that. You simply shut the power off to your pump/motor and drain the water pressure out of it . Then you use an air gauge to check the air pressure in your tank. If it is low you add back the air that it needs....Sometimes you have to run the compressor a long time to push existing or trapped water out of the tank before it will start to read the correct air pressure. The rusty fittings are due to a lower ph water that is more acidic . You probably have a shallow well and needed to have a deeper one that will have a more neutral ph without all the high iron content.Your brother probably called a plumber instead of a well tech., but nevertheless he was wrong in his recommendation . If the bladder starts to fail and come apart you replace the tank end of story unless it ''the actual bladder bag'' is replaceable which it was not in this brand tank. His recommendation would cause the cycle to be a short one which would overheat and eventually burn up his pumps motor....If you still do not understand what I am telling you , let me know which part so I can explain it better to you. At least a quarter of my annual revenue comes from's my customers being misinformed by on-line information diy who have no clue about what they are doing or know just enough to be dangerous. Believe me it costs them more in the long run.
Chicago water is pathetic
hit your asthma inhaler buddy