All ur videos r very useful. I moved from zero to hero in mechanics just by following you. U can't imagine how u change my knowledge in Mondeo. Mine is 2001, still running 220 on highway. Thx
Great video. I just did this on my 03 2.0 tdci with the removeable studs and found out the following. If you can't release the tension on the belt then remove the top nut on the alternator. Remove the bottom nut closest to you. Loosen the other one. Remover the front stud and pivot the alternator up. Belt will come off easy. Fitting is reverse of removal. Cheers for the vid
Thank you so much for this video; I followed it to replace the worn belt and not alternator. I was lucky as all tensioner bolts came out easy! Garage wanted £110 for this job and only costed me £16.99 for a belt and two hours work.
Absolute respect to you for your perseverance, Martin. You must have felt like chucking a match in the petrol tank and walking away at times. Oh no - it's a diesel, so you can't ! Well done anyway.
Mate seriously, thanks for putting this on , you have saved me hours , What a nightmare changing the belt. people say to mechanics how much £80 to change a belt you are having a laugh, try doing it Thanks again.
The book sometimes does not pan out the way we want them to Martin , Good job man , Common know how and the right tools play a big roll in the car game .. Thumbs up man !!
Man they sure make it easy to work on that car. It's like my wifes Mini Cooper. You gotta pretty much drop the engine to do anything. Mondeo 1 - Martin 2 Well done, Jay
Alright, boys and girls; I've just done this without going near the tensioner, without removing the studs and certainly not going anywhere near the track rods and drop links. I pulled out the plastics from the wheel arch. Took the nuts off the alternator bolts (you don't need to remove the bolts). Removed the fuel filter (I'd long ago removed and thrown the heavy bracket that the fuel filter sits in; it does nothing of any value and hasn't ever caused any problems, rattles or otherwise). This gives just enough room to fish out the alternator if you're determined. I then wheedled the belt off the guide wheel to give me some slack and with a bit of pulling and yanking, I found the alternator quite willing to come out from the top of the engine. It might help to remove the plastic part (three tiny nuts) but I dropped the replacement in without removing it so I wouldn't waste my time. Once you've seated the replacement, you can then, leave the alternator sitting loose on the studs while you hook the belt onto the alternator drive wheel and then screw the nuts onto the studs to secure the alternator. Once everything is in place, you can use something long with a soft end which won't harm the belt, (like a rubber handled tyre iron), and by forcing the belt down and using your fingers to push the belt onto the jockey wheel, you can get it to seat neatly. I'd be a lot more smug about this had I not got a couple of large bolts left over and not a clue where they came from. On the upside, nothing went wrong when I took it for a 'frapp of death' test-drive. There's always more than one way to skin a cat; I hope this helps. Worked out where the bolts came from- no drama! It seems the poster has pinned this aweful advice for some reason; I refered to his video for 'the right way' to do the job and...oh well, there's no accounting for people. In the interests of disclosure and out of concern for the dimwitted, I should've mentioned that I removed the plate at the top of the suspension that I think stops the assembly from falling out once you've removed the wishbone etc. which you obviously don't go near, for this. It's three extra nuts, 13mm I think. Don't lose them. Importantly, when I was wrestling with the old unit, one of the fuel hoses got a very worrying kink in it as I was bending it out of the way but it seems to have survived...JUST...be aware; they're old and stiff; I thought I'd split mine and I've certainly damaged it, which will cause me problems in about twenty-five years. It's a cheap and easy scrapyard part...but you have to be able to drive there. Anyway, I hate working with suspension so I went in from the top with spurs jangling and got lucky. You lot can balls it up at your own expense.
Do it the way the man says in the video,but buy a tensioner tool,it may need a bit of cardboard tucked behind it.dont take it it out from the top,its harder work...instead disconnect track rod end[use a heavy mallet leave nut at bottom o f thread to avoid damage] havnt disconnected drop lnks in the past to do this job but it might help if they come of easy
Well Martin . Hats off to you on that , I thought my mower was a sod , that is a real nasty job. Thanks for the shout out , i do like like the fing and blinding , keeps it for real . Hands like a coal miner . Regards Pete.
I did a bottom pulley and tensioner (I would advise looking into changing them when you do the belt as they are a common failure on these, if I recall you can get the two in a kit) on one a while back and I had a whole load of ball-ache doing it as well. I didn't have the tensioner tool, or a crow bar that would fit like yours. There's no way in hell you will get a half inch drive ratchet in to get the tension off the belt - there is a special tool for it (Ford T303676), though. They're something like £16 -£20 on eBay. I really have no recollection of having to remove that bracket, for some reason. Can't you undo that bottom 13mm bolt on the adjuster and slip the belt behind it? I can't really remember well enough, or see in the video.
+mrman17 Not sure about that bottom 13mm bolt but I know that it's a common fail on those tensioner adusters although this one spins freely with no play so i'll let sleeping dogs lie. Cheers Martin
It's not the bearing on the tensioner that's the problem. Basically, the crankshaft pulley fails (it's in two parts kept together by a by of rubber), this rattles about and causes the tensioner to fail over time, so it "bounces" about and doesn't keep the belt as tight as it should. It tends to manifest itself as a rattle at idle. Anyway, I don't mean to do it regardless, but just be aware of it and check their condition while you are there.
Hardest thing to replace Martin I ended up lowering the engine mine is the 1.8 petrol pain in the Arse lol although saved 120 quid so worth it I suppose .. Great vid keep them coming
Great video Martin, hell of a job to get at the alternator and even more to get off that bracket for the belt. i know it would have been a lot more work but i think i would have lifted the car up at the front like you had it before to get better access. Anyway its charging now that's the main thing. look forward to more video's Martin, keep em coming lol. Cheers, Jeff.
Thanks for your entertaining videos as well as being a laugh you have saved me hours of time when fixing my 05 mondeo. I had the same problem as you with the tensioner bracket but my 6 point 13mm socket and 1/2 " breaker bar with no extension sorted it.
Martin did I hear you swear a few times lol well done for getting that belt back on. I know it's no good now but I was told to put a Jack under the sump with a bit of wood on it. then remove the engine mount. lower the engine enough so you can get to the tension bolts and alternator. hopefully now you and the mondeo can make up and be friends lol.
+antony wilde Haha, I felt like attacking this old friend with a club hammer today lol. The crow bar worked a treat so didn't need to drop the engine. Cheers Martin
Hey Mart.Another job sorted.Changed my alternator last year on the mondy but the Diesel version looks a pig to do compared to the petrol with the tensioner location and alt bracket.Swearing helps though.Does with me lol!
I hate working on newer cars, It's like they never want you to fix anything. I could change a clutch on my old capri in the same time it takes to do a basic service on a modern car. Thanks for the video.
use spanner instead of socket on top bolt. i used crow bar to get belt of but threaded a ratchet strap threw tension er and around wish bone , cranked it to put belt back on
I ended up buying two Serpentine Belt Tool Kit (tensioner tool) for both of my cars. I had the belt come off after hitting standing water and was stranded. I could only use the bar and socket attachment but it came in handy. Was under $20 USD from a company called Harbor Freight. So far I have lucked out with being able to replace a belt without removing brackets or mounts. My Kia Rondo had it's timing belt go New Years eve...supposedly they are required to be replaced at the 100,000 mile mark...didn't know that
+DJMovit These belts are supposed to last 150,000. this car has done 147,00 so it should be one really. Unlucky for your belt to come off after hitting water. Not heard of that before.
+retrorestore The one that came off was a Dodge Caravan. I was guessing something was slightly misaligned and the water just helped it along. Didn't keep it much longer. I am kind of like you as I will keep pushing the issue with large corporations that have poor customer service. Sometimes you win most you lose. Wal-Mart likes to just push your complains off to a store instead of looking into the mater. Then you get some Assistant Manager of the day that may call you back and claim it was a one time event etc etc. Keep going after FORD! I can go on and on with issue but I won't...maybe I should vent on a Vlog! LOLHaven't seen Barney latterly hope all is well....getting old so I might have missed him in a video :-)
very helpful, clearly explained, practical video - will save me £££ on replacing the alternator myself on my mondeo (I don't plan on replacing the belt though!) many thanks for the vid
@@MrKevinw89 it's actually easy you just undo the bottom right hand bolt which goes through the alternator and tensioner spring mechanism this then release the tension on belt and you reach down from top and slip belt off smooth pulley! Then slip back on and re tighten and it put tension on belt. I left old belt on though as it was ok . It has to come out same way past track rod end and drop link! Hope it helps. It was was the bloody smart charge system that had fried on it!
Use a dremmel cutting tool through the bracket, The exposed bolt will be easy to remove and replace the bracket is what I would do if I had to replace the belt
For anyone wanting to change the belt. all you have to do, once you have tension off the belt, is to loosen the allen bolt at the top of the tensioner above the spring as far as it will go (You have to grind down an allen key I think 8mm) and loosen the 13mm bolt at the bottom of the spring, take the bolt out. this will give enough of a gap to slide the new belt in between the idler pulley on the tensioner. Cut the old belt off and lower the new belt from the top of the engine bay, push the bottom of the belt up through the bottom of the tensioner (Where the 13mm bolt would be) and then slide it up the gap between the idler pulley, tighten the tensioner bolts back up put everything in situ. I highly recommend purchasing a tensioner tool about 20 odd quid from ebay.. The tensioner tool can only be used from the bottom of the car and it is a bit of a struggle, I had to push it and fit the belt around the AC pulley. Done the job twice now including changing the tensioner it's self.. It's not a pleasant job but it is completely possible.
@@retrorestore No no I wasn't meaning to impede on your methods at all buddy. It was merely a suggestion on a quicker way of changing the belt without having to remove everything. Your videos are great and have helped me a lot, especially with the starter motor. Garages have you believe that these cars are the worse to work on but the truth is there are so many ways to get to things, I was told that to get the tensioner replaced it was an engine out job but it isnt.. Nah I was just eager to share my thoughts on this, sorry if I offended you man, Your way is great too and probably less fiddly xD.
12:14 yoi can actualy pull it out from up side but you need 2 people one tilt engine to front other one pull the alternator out. you need now align the car
Some feedback from having done this today. Firstly be careful with levers and crowbars near the pulleys as the pulleys break ! I had to get a belt and pulley kit. Put a jack under the engine and then remove the offside engine mount Now lower the engine and you can then get a 1/2" drive onto the tensioner. Having the engine mount off also gives good access to the belt. If you remove the fuel filter and the turbo shield, then the alternator will come "up and out" without the need to remove the long torx head studs. Thanks again for the video .. excellent work.
Nice one Martin you got there in end I thought it was a pig of job to do alternator on a 2.0 clio but that looks worse it's so satisfying when it's all done and back together Im just wondering did camera get turned off for a bit while you swore about that bolt you did well I would of lost it for sure that would of been coffee time right there
tengo un problema con el aire acondicionado no enciende el compresor y no se activa desde el control se conecto directo el compresor y si funciona ya le revise todos los componentes electricos y hasta le cambie y no funciona ayuda por favor maestro
Hi mate have u ever done a replacement crank pulley/ tensioner? my xtype sound like a tank been told thats what it needs Great vids by the way help me alot
Hi Martin I have got to replace my sons belt on his 2.0 tdci it looks a right arsehole of a job I might farm it out to someone else lol. Great vid mate as always
Great stuff again Martin 👍 I’ve just bought a 54 tdci Mondeo for a run around motor with a noisy tensioner 😆 Looks like I’ve got a pig of a job changing that eeeeeeek 🤪 Have a nice weekend Stevie
Great vid Martin..loved the swearing ,that was enough to make a vicar swear lol ...Now...i don't want to be the merchant of doom but....that harmonic balancer on the bottom pulley has seen better days ;) @ 4:20
What a pig of a job. Was there enough room to unbolt the offending bolt with the 2 spanner method? I had to change the drive belt as part of the service on my Astra and that was bad enough even though it is easier than your Mondeo.
retrorestore Its just gonna get more complicated. Out of interest are your vlogs on things improvised or scripted? When i do vlogs about something i do about 6 or 7 takes on one clip because i don't know what to say lol.
+michael jagger I just leave the camera running and there's no script. If I make a mistake, I just leave the camera running and say it again. Cheers Martin
5 years i have problem. When engine is hot 13,5V lights turned off. When i turn on lights and eveything 11.7 With clima 9,5V and engine dead . New alternator new battery clean cable its doesnt help. Sorry but my language is not good :)
Check that the engine main earth cable connection is clean and tight and the rest of the charging system cables. Could be a loose cable causing the voltage drop.
i think its problem with computer. Connection with 3 cables from computer to alternator 8,5v-10,5 next cable 0,05v and last cable 12,5 voltage like on battery.. This 8,5 to 10,5 voltage cable i think is to low from computer to alternator. Someday i checkt this problem again because now i am in holland
PCM controls the alternator, it's not controlled internally like it used to be. So it could very well be the PCM if you know all your cables are good and not nearly broken anywhere in the circuit and that alternator and battery is good. Also check parasitic draw before you drop the money for PCM. That would be my advice. Also try the full field test on the alternator so you see if it's getting the correct signal from the PCM. Check Scanner Danner's video on that. Just go to his channel and do a search for a full field test.
I done this job on the mk3 mondeo st220 v6 engine, wasnt that bad of a job to do. i did film it to show peeps how to do it. the tensioner is a pig yes but 3/8 ratchet and closed ended spanner, which worked a treat. Here is the video for you to check out th-cam.com/video/6jCkdVcdlgM/w-d-xo.html
I feel for you! Another outstanding video. I bought a tension releasing tool on fleebay a few weeks ago as I had to replaced the crankshaft pulley. For £20 it's still half the labour of replacing the belt (and that's without the tensioner or pulley). There is a spanish bloke who has made a video replacing the belt and he removed the engine mount, dropped the engine down a bit and thensplit the tensioner to release the belt (leaving the alternator undisturbed). If you do need to replace your belt then this could be the answer? Here is the link : th-cam.com/video/mxX6BBN3Z8I/w-d-xo.html
+Miles Williams Just watched it Miles, that could be an option with the cut down allen key. It's just enough to slip the belt behind the pulley doing it that way. Cheers for the link.
I just found this vid. Great vid and some real good guidance on a how to. I did my bottom pulley last January and had to make a tool for the belt tensioner to get the load off the belt. I am surprised that it seems you need to take the alternator out to change out the belt, (not that this was your purpose as it was an alternator change), though I'm sure there has to be a way of doing it without taking half the car to pieces! Hope you don't mind, but the vid of the tool I made is here th-cam.com/video/jR9sI2NraQI/w-d-xo.html I still have it and have never used it since lol. I have a feeling it'll be used soon though as I really do need to change out that belt AND do the valve gaps as they're getting a bit noisey of late.
Ich habe für dich meine Freund einen Ford mk3 DuraTech HE 1.8i Motor Code:CGBB BJ: 2003 Alle teile außer den Motorblock alles da ! Nur der Block ist Defekt ! Alles 90.000 km gelaufen. DHL Packet möglich !
All ur videos r very useful. I moved from zero to hero in mechanics just by following you. U can't imagine how u change my knowledge in Mondeo. Mine is 2001, still running 220 on highway. Thx
Great video. I just did this on my 03 2.0 tdci with the removeable studs and found out the following. If you can't release the tension on the belt then remove the top nut on the alternator. Remove the bottom nut closest to you. Loosen the other one. Remover the front stud and pivot the alternator up. Belt will come off easy. Fitting is reverse of removal. Cheers for the vid
I had to replace the alternator again 8 months later and found that out bud. I did do a video on it on my channel.
Nice one Darren.
Cheers
Martin
Thank you so much for this video; I followed it to replace the worn belt and not alternator. I was lucky as all tensioner bolts came out easy! Garage wanted £110 for this job and only costed me £16.99 for a belt and two hours work.
+Max Dee That's great. Well done and a great saving.
Cheers
Martin
Great video. I need a new alternator as not charging . Your video made me realise that this is a job for my garage !
Absolute respect to you for your perseverance, Martin. You must have felt like chucking a match in the petrol tank and walking away at times. Oh no - it's a diesel, so you can't ! Well done anyway.
+jsof2 Haha, I know what you mean. It wasn't going to beat me but that bracket did lol
Mate seriously, thanks for putting this on , you have saved me hours , What a nightmare changing the belt. people say to mechanics how much £80 to change a belt you are having a laugh, try doing it Thanks again.
The book sometimes does not pan out the way we want them to Martin , Good job man , Common know how and the right tools play a big roll in the car game .. Thumbs up man !!
+ShawnMrFixitlee That's so true Shawn, especially with modern cars, they use so many different fixings.
Cheers
Martin
This video was very helpful as I had to replace my alternator on my 2.2 Jaguar x type (same engine as your mondeo)
Man they sure make it easy to work on that car. It's like my wifes Mini Cooper. You gotta pretty much drop the engine to do anything.
Mondeo 1 - Martin 2
Well done,
Jay
+Jay Dighsx Haha, Jay, yes, i'm in front again but don't know for how long lol.
Alright, boys and girls; I've just done this without going near the tensioner, without removing the studs and certainly not going anywhere near the track rods and drop links.
I pulled out the plastics from the wheel arch. Took the nuts off the alternator bolts (you don't need to remove the bolts). Removed the fuel filter (I'd long ago removed and thrown the heavy bracket that the fuel filter sits in; it does nothing of any value and hasn't ever caused any problems, rattles or otherwise). This gives just enough room to fish out the alternator if you're determined.
I then wheedled the belt off the guide wheel to give me some slack and with a bit of pulling and yanking, I found the alternator quite willing to come out from the top of the engine. It might help to remove the plastic part (three tiny nuts) but I dropped the replacement in without removing it so I wouldn't waste my time.
Once you've seated the replacement, you can then, leave the alternator sitting loose on the studs while you hook the belt onto the alternator drive wheel and then screw the nuts onto the studs to secure the alternator. Once everything is in place, you can use something long with a soft end which won't harm the belt, (like a rubber handled tyre iron), and by forcing the belt down and using your fingers to push the belt onto the jockey wheel, you can get it to seat neatly.
I'd be a lot more smug about this had I not got a couple of large bolts left over and not a clue where they came from. On the upside, nothing went wrong when I took it for a 'frapp of death' test-drive. There's always more than one way to skin a cat; I hope this helps.
Worked out where the bolts came from- no drama!
It seems the poster has pinned this aweful advice for some reason; I refered to his video for 'the right way' to do the job and...oh well, there's no accounting for people.
In the interests of disclosure and out of concern for the dimwitted, I should've mentioned that I removed the plate at the top of the suspension that I think stops the assembly from falling out once you've removed the wishbone etc. which you obviously don't go near, for this. It's three extra nuts, 13mm I think. Don't lose them.
Importantly, when I was wrestling with the old unit, one of the fuel hoses got a very worrying kink in it as I was bending it out of the way but it seems to have survived...JUST...be aware; they're old and stiff; I thought I'd split mine and I've certainly damaged it, which will cause me problems in about twenty-five years. It's a cheap and easy scrapyard part...but you have to be able to drive there.
Anyway, I hate working with suspension so I went in from the top with spurs jangling and got lucky. You lot can balls it up at your own expense.
Do it the way the man says in the video,but buy a tensioner tool,it may need a bit of cardboard tucked behind it.dont take it it out from the top,its harder work...instead disconnect track rod end[use a heavy mallet leave nut at bottom o f thread to avoid damage] havnt disconnected drop lnks in the past to do this job but it might help if they come of easy
Well Martin . Hats off to you on that , I thought my mower was a sod , that is a real nasty job.
Thanks for the shout out , i do like like the fing and blinding , keeps it for real .
Hands like a coal miner . Regards Pete.
+Peter Froud I thought i'd leave a little colourful language in Pete as a gauge of the difficulty of this job lol.
Nothing wrong with a bit of that . Makes you feel better.
I see you're still working on the car Martin. I need to catch up on at least 4 videos lol!
Never mind, I will catch up. Thanks for the videos.
+markybyeah Haha, left a few in this vid just to let people realise this job was a nightmare lol
I did a bottom pulley and tensioner (I would advise looking into changing them when you do the belt as they are a common failure on these, if I recall you can get the two in a kit) on one a while back and I had a whole load of ball-ache doing it as well. I didn't have the tensioner tool, or a crow bar that would fit like yours.
There's no way in hell you will get a half inch drive ratchet in to get the tension off the belt - there is a special tool for it (Ford T303676), though. They're something like £16 -£20 on eBay.
I really have no recollection of having to remove that bracket, for some reason. Can't you undo that bottom 13mm bolt on the adjuster and slip the belt behind it? I can't really remember well enough, or see in the video.
+mrman17 Not sure about that bottom 13mm bolt but I know that it's a common fail on those tensioner adusters although this one spins freely with no play so i'll let sleeping dogs lie.
Cheers
Martin
It's not the bearing on the tensioner that's the problem.
Basically, the crankshaft pulley fails (it's in two parts kept together by a by of rubber), this rattles about and causes the tensioner to fail over time, so it "bounces" about and doesn't keep the belt as tight as it should. It tends to manifest itself as a rattle at idle.
Anyway, I don't mean to do it regardless, but just be aware of it and check their condition while you are there.
Yes i've heard of that problen but hopefully it's not for a while.
Cheers
Martin
Hardest thing to replace Martin I ended up lowering the engine mine is the 1.8 petrol pain in the Arse lol although saved 120 quid so worth it I suppose .. Great vid keep them coming
+Sean Dwyer I did consider lowering the engine but struggled on lol. What a job though.
Cheers
Martin
Great video Martin, hell of a job to get at the alternator and even more to get off that bracket for the belt. i know it would have been a lot more work but i think i would have lifted the car up at the front like you had it before to get better access. Anyway its charging now that's the main thing. look forward to more video's Martin, keep em coming lol.
Cheers, Jeff.
+cabdriveruk Yes it needed to be higher but I also needed a small air wrench as there's no room for leavering Jeff. Maybe another time.
Cheers
Martin
Thanks for your entertaining videos as well as being a laugh you have saved me hours of time when fixing my 05 mondeo. I had the same problem as you with the tensioner bracket but my 6 point 13mm socket and 1/2 " breaker bar with no extension sorted it.
Nice one Col, Thanks for watching bud.
Cheers
Martin
Martin did I hear you swear a few times lol well done for getting that belt back on. I know it's no good now but I was told to put a Jack under the sump with a bit of wood on it. then remove the engine mount. lower the engine enough so you can get to the tension bolts and alternator. hopefully now you and the mondeo can make up and be friends lol.
+antony wilde Haha, I felt like attacking this old friend with a club hammer today lol. The crow bar worked a treat so didn't need to drop the engine.
Cheers
Martin
The Mondy is certainly keeping you busy Martin.
+michael jagger Keeps me making vids lol
Hey Mart.Another job sorted.Changed my alternator last year on the mondy but the Diesel version looks a pig to do compared to the petrol with the tensioner location and alt bracket.Swearing helps though.Does with me lol!
Good job also.
+Martin Hall The alternator was fine Mart. that stupid bracket to remove the belt was the pain. Still, got there in the end.
Right bugger this was!! Had problems with the tensioner, had to make my own tool to try and move it! Off the road for a day.
I had to do this again and found a simpler way in this video th-cam.com/video/fZqK6VwEPSo/w-d-xo.html
Cheers
Martin
I hate working on newer cars, It's like they never want you to fix anything. I could change a clutch on my old capri in the same time it takes to do a basic service on a modern car. Thanks for the video.
+Michael Hall I know what you mean Michael, these cars have no maintenance thoughts in them whatsoever.
Cheers
Martin
when you welded the nut back on for the sub frame , did you forget to disconnect the battery as welding with battery connected can fry your alternator
+radio control uk No, the battery was off the car bud.
use spanner instead of socket on top bolt. i used crow bar to get belt of but threaded a ratchet strap threw tension er and around wish bone , cranked it to put belt back on
I ended up buying two Serpentine Belt Tool Kit (tensioner tool) for both of my cars. I had the belt come off after hitting standing water and was stranded. I could only use the bar and socket attachment but it came in handy. Was under $20 USD from a company called Harbor Freight. So far I have lucked out with being able to replace a belt without removing brackets or mounts. My Kia Rondo had it's timing belt go New Years eve...supposedly they are required to be replaced at the 100,000 mile mark...didn't know that
+DJMovit These belts are supposed to last 150,000. this car has done 147,00 so it should be one really. Unlucky for your belt to come off after hitting water. Not heard of that before.
+retrorestore The one that came off was a Dodge Caravan. I was guessing something was slightly misaligned and the water just helped it along. Didn't keep it much longer. I am kind of like you as I will keep pushing the issue with large corporations that have poor customer service. Sometimes you win most you lose. Wal-Mart likes to just push your complains off to a store instead of looking into the mater. Then you get some Assistant Manager of the day that may call you back and claim it was a one time event etc etc. Keep going after FORD! I can go on and on with issue but I won't...maybe I should vent on a Vlog! LOLHaven't seen Barney latterly hope all is well....getting old so I might have missed him in a video :-)
DJMovit
Barney is fine lol. I'll do a vid soon on the update with Ford.
Cheers
Martin
Perseverance pays off well done mate.
+spanermantim Just a shame I didn't have a small windy gun to get that bracket off Tim, maybe another day.
Cheers
Martin
very helpful, clearly explained, practical video - will save me £££ on replacing the alternator myself on my mondeo (I don't plan on replacing the belt though!) many thanks for the vid
wrong decision
if your just changing the alternator, to loosen the belt just undo the alternator bolts and the belt will loosen enough to take it off the alternator
Is this true pal coz I'm tackling the job tomorrow and without the tool I'm pulling me hair out !
@@MsRitchie225 how did you get on? I'm doing this in a few hours?
@@MrKevinw89 it's actually easy you just undo the bottom right hand bolt which goes through the alternator and tensioner spring mechanism this then release the tension on belt and you reach down from top and slip belt off smooth pulley! Then slip back on and re tighten and it put tension on belt. I left old belt on though as it was ok .
It has to come out same way past track rod end and drop link!
Hope it helps. It was was the bloody smart charge system that had fried on it!
@@MsRitchie225 will let you know how I get on but from my experience with the mondeo is nothing is that easy lol
@@MrKevinw89 definetly Not!
Even getting the wheels off!
Super advice and good video Thankyou J.K.
Hi Martin, had to laugh when you swore trying the bar on the spanner! 😀 shame you couldn't get the new belt on. Happy days though car back on road.
+Andy Taylor I thought i'd leave that in to show what a pain this job was lol.
Cheers
Martin
Use a dremmel cutting tool through the bracket, The exposed bolt will be easy to remove and replace the bracket is what I would do if I had to replace the belt
For anyone wanting to change the belt. all you have to do, once you have tension off the belt, is to loosen the allen bolt at the top of the tensioner above the spring as far as it will go (You have to grind down an allen key I think 8mm) and loosen the 13mm bolt at the bottom of the spring, take the bolt out. this will give enough of a gap to slide the new belt in between the idler pulley on the tensioner.
Cut the old belt off and lower the new belt from the top of the engine bay, push the bottom of the belt up through the bottom of the tensioner (Where the 13mm bolt would be) and then slide it up the gap between the idler pulley, tighten the tensioner bolts back up put everything in situ. I highly recommend purchasing a tensioner tool about 20 odd quid from ebay..
The tensioner tool can only be used from the bottom of the car and it is a bit of a struggle, I had to push it and fit the belt around the AC pulley.
Done the job twice now including changing the tensioner it's self.. It's not a pleasant job but it is completely possible.
Why not do a video showing your method. This is my video bud.
@@retrorestore No no I wasn't meaning to impede on your methods at all buddy. It was merely a suggestion on a quicker way of changing the belt without having to remove everything. Your videos are great and have helped me a lot, especially with the starter motor.
Garages have you believe that these cars are the worse to work on but the truth is there are so many ways to get to things, I was told that to get the tensioner replaced it was an engine out job but it isnt.. Nah I was just eager to share my thoughts on this, sorry if I offended you man, Your way is great too and probably less fiddly xD.
@@Vanadeo No offence taken bud, all the best.
Martin
12:14 yoi can actualy pull it out from up side but you need 2 people one tilt engine to front other one pull the alternator out. you need now align the car
Hi, have you considered building your own inspection pit?
Not on my drive bud
fairplay mate, its like a new car now! All these parts you have changed! ;0
+JamesAquariumz Oh yes it is. Deffo a keeper now.
Cheers
Martin
Brilliant, warts 'n all. Good video shots in difficult places.
Cheers Andy, it was a bit of a faff lol.
Cheers
Martin
Some feedback from having done this today.
Firstly be careful with levers and crowbars near the pulleys as the pulleys break ! I had to get a belt and pulley kit.
Put a jack under the engine and then remove the offside engine mount Now lower the engine and you can then get a 1/2" drive onto the tensioner. Having the engine mount off also gives good access to the belt.
If you remove the fuel filter and the turbo shield, then the alternator will come "up and out" without the need to remove the long torx head studs.
Thanks again for the video .. excellent work.
Good job bud, handy to know.
Cheers
Martin
hi martin loving the vids keep it up ps I would love it if we had some more lawnmower restoration vids
+Leon Lavelle There will be Leon as soon as I get these jobs out the way and back to normality lol.
Cheers
Martin
+retrorestore ok cool good job Martin keep up the good work
Nice one Martin you got there in end I thought it was a pig of job to do alternator on a 2.0 clio but that looks worse it's so satisfying when it's all done and back together Im just wondering did camera get turned off for a bit while you swore about that bolt you did well I would of lost it for sure that would of been coffee time right there
+Martin Burbridge There was a lot more swearing Mart but the token F word in the vid was to let people know what a pain this j
tengo un problema con el aire acondicionado no enciende el compresor y no se activa desde el control se conecto directo el compresor y si funciona ya le revise todos los componentes electricos y hasta le cambie y no funciona ayuda por favor maestro
+Leonel Cano Lo sentimos , no he trabajado en el aire acondicionado
Just curious, whats the classic car in front of the modeo? Awesome video by the way.
Triumph Acclaim (rebadged Honda made by British Leyland in the early to mid 1980's)
+RandyDarkshade As Miles said, A Triumph Acclaim.. There's a series ov vids on my channel of the restoration to date.
Cheers
Martin
Hi mate have u ever done a replacement crank pulley/ tensioner? my xtype sound like a tank been told thats what it needs
Great vids by the way help me alot
Hi Lee, No, not done one of those yet. Thanks for watching bud.
Cheers
Martin
thanks Martin for getting back to me ill have to find the haynes manual lol
Hi Martin I have got to replace my sons belt on his 2.0 tdci it looks a right arsehole of a job I might farm it out to someone else lol.
Great vid mate as always
Haha, yes Steve, I feel like doing that some days lol.
Cheers
Martin
Nice one mate a very good job :)
+Cornish Engines Cheers bud. A right pain this one.
Yes it's been awhile since you last worked on the old triumph?
+david coster won't be long now.
Great stuff again Martin 👍 I’ve just bought a 54 tdci Mondeo for a run around motor with a noisy tensioner 😆 Looks like I’ve got a pig of a job changing that eeeeeeek 🤪 Have a nice weekend Stevie
Great vid Martin..loved the swearing ,that was enough to make a vicar swear lol ...Now...i don't want to be the merchant of doom but....that harmonic balancer on the bottom pulley has seen better days ;) @ 4:20
+dave -weldore- newton Yes I kbow Dave, its staying put for now lol.
Cheers
Martin
+retrorestore haha..i thought you was gonna tell me to F-OFF lol
dave -weldore- newton
I used my daily quota of F words on that job so you're safe lol.
What a pig of a job. Was there enough room to unbolt the offending bolt with the 2 spanner method? I had to change the drive belt as part of the service on my Astra and that was bad enough even though it is easier than your Mondeo.
+Parknest It needed a small air wrachet as it is so tight. I have one now so i'll do it soon.
Cheers
Martin
That did make me chuckle so aggravating when things are awkward and restricted .
+jurassicbark2000 I bet you've been there too lol.
Cheers
Martin
Martin you need a new crankshaft pulley. the rubber for the harmonic ballencer is very deteriorated.
Yes it was but I sold the car.
Cheers
Martin
always somthing aint there lol, i get really annoyed when bolts dont come undone and you slip and brake somthing always the way lol nice vid martin .
+Shaun Corr Cheers Shaun, yes, there was no leverage room either.
Everything is tightly packed on that Mondy
+michael jagger Your telling me it is. I think all modern cars are like this now.
retrorestore Its just gonna get more complicated. Out of interest are your vlogs on things improvised or scripted? When i do vlogs about something i do about 6 or 7 takes on one clip because i don't know what to say lol.
+michael jagger I just leave the camera running and there's no script.
If I make a mistake, I just leave the camera running and say it again.
Cheers
Martin
That's new cars for you. Got to rip everything off. To get to the part you won't 😰 good vid
+shane arnold Thanks Shane, it's a pain of a job
5 years i have problem. When engine is hot 13,5V lights turned off. When i turn on lights and eveything 11.7 With clima 9,5V and engine dead . New alternator new battery clean cable its doesnt help. Sorry but my language is not good :)
Check that the engine main earth cable connection is clean and tight and the rest of the charging system cables. Could be a loose cable causing the voltage drop.
i think its problem with computer. Connection with 3 cables from computer to alternator 8,5v-10,5 next cable 0,05v and last cable 12,5 voltage like on battery.. This 8,5 to 10,5 voltage cable i think is to low from computer to alternator. Someday i checkt this problem again because now i am in holland
PCM controls the alternator, it's not controlled internally like it used to be. So it could very well be the PCM if you know all your cables are good and not nearly broken anywhere in the circuit and that alternator and battery is good. Also check parasitic draw before you drop the money for PCM. That would be my advice. Also try the full field test on the alternator so you see if it's getting the correct signal from the PCM. Check Scanner Danner's video on that. Just go to his channel and do a search for a full field test.
Thanks!
Super.
You could actually bump start instead of jumpstart, unless you parked downhill. :)
Haha, nice one.
Cheers
Martin
Could you imagine if you try to restart again after the car stalled?!
Clearly stronger profanities needed for such a stubborn bolt.
I guess you will be looking for a small air impact now :-)
+Rolf Heyer Yes, I plan to get one.
Cheers
Martin
someone buy that man a pint nice vid. like the f words new there were there
+angus Haha, just keeping it real in this vid lol.
Cheers
Martin
that mondy sure is giving you a kick in the pants ay it mucka
+radio control uk I think it's Martin 2 Mondeo 1 at the moment lol.
Cheers
Martin
I done this job on the mk3 mondeo st220 v6 engine, wasnt that bad of a job to do. i did film it to show peeps how to do it. the tensioner is a pig yes but 3/8 ratchet and closed ended spanner, which worked a treat. Here is the video for you to check out th-cam.com/video/6jCkdVcdlgM/w-d-xo.html
I feel for you! Another outstanding video. I bought a tension releasing tool on fleebay a few weeks ago as I had to replaced the crankshaft pulley. For £20 it's still half the labour of replacing the belt (and that's without the tensioner or pulley). There is a spanish bloke who has made a video replacing the belt and he removed the engine mount, dropped the engine down a bit and thensplit the tensioner to release the belt (leaving the alternator undisturbed). If you do need to replace your belt then this could be the answer? Here is the link : th-cam.com/video/mxX6BBN3Z8I/w-d-xo.html
+Miles Williams Just watched it Miles, that could be an option with the cut down allen key. It's just enough to slip the belt behind the pulley doing it that way. Cheers for the link.
would have been so much easier on an 80,s car more space and better location
+david coster Your telling me it would. Can't wait to get back onto the Triumph lol
Just come across your channel bud, good to see another brit doing some good old home DIY car repair! check out my channel too if you want :)
+The Savage Garage Nice one bud, I'll give you a sub if you want to return the sub.
Cheers
Martin
I just found this vid. Great vid and some real good guidance on a how to. I did my bottom pulley last January and had to make a tool for the belt tensioner to get the load off the belt. I am surprised that it seems you need to take the alternator out to change out the belt, (not that this was your purpose as it was an alternator change), though I'm sure there has to be a way of doing it without taking half the car to pieces!
Hope you don't mind, but the vid of the tool I made is here th-cam.com/video/jR9sI2NraQI/w-d-xo.html
I still have it and have never used it since lol. I have a feeling it'll be used soon though as I really do need to change out that belt AND do the valve gaps as they're getting a bit noisey of late.
Je l'ai déjà changé cette courroie accessoires est le galet tendeur une grosse merde à faire pas de place et grosse galère à faire
Ich habe für dich meine Freund einen Ford mk3 DuraTech HE 1.8i Motor Code:CGBB BJ: 2003 Alle teile außer den Motorblock alles da ! Nur der Block ist Defekt ! Alles 90.000 km gelaufen. DHL Packet möglich !
Ich habe jetzt den Mondeo verkauft aber danke für das nette Angebot.
Schöne Grüße
Martin
Ford - The new F Word (at least round your patch)
Shame the problem arose after you'd put it all back...It would've been a breeze then!
+69Phuket I know a few more F words as in the vid lol.
Cheers
Martin
+69Phuket You beat me to it.
why don't they make it easier to get to grr!
+david coster Tell me about it. Designed by robots with no soul lol.
Cheers
Martin
Cars make you swear lol...
Shhhh profanity Martin😂
did you just swear lol
Sell it quick!
+Jeff Collins You're joking Jeff, it would be the ideal car to buy now lol.
Cheers
Martin
Блин, а по-русски можно?)
Я не сожалею
Друг шутки не понял) я сожалею