Yes, a filter would probably produce a nice glow in camera, but it would be unfeasible to take it off for every bluescreen-exposure I think, and also it's impossible to adjust... Maybe on another occasion, for now the compositing process is also very efficient. :)
There is a really interesting video from This Old Tony in which he makes a screwdriver for LOOK MUM NO COMPUTER. It might be nothing for you since the forces you are dealing with are minimal while assembling the characters but I switched to this type of a gunsmith screwdrivers. Since you work with brass I would assume you could use some to keep your screws from slightly deforming. Also you could pult a thin layer of lacquer to strop the bronze/brass from staining/ I bet it wouldn't be visible between shots and could help with the consistency.
Yes, I've seen this video of TOT, and it's a really good screwdriver shape! However, the watchmakers screwdrivers I'm using actually have a similar geometry at the tip, with nearly parallel flats, the only problem is that they are a tiny bit too thin sometimes. But there is also quite a bit of variation in the with of the slits in the screwheads, so that's hard to avoid I guess... And yes, lacquer would probably work, but I don't want to have any visible layer - Do you have a type you would recommend? For something like the housing I kind of like the patina too, and on many mechanical parts lacquer would probably wear off or prevent a perfect fit in the first place... But I should certainly learn to use it for the occasions where it's suitable. ;)
@@ValentinFelder absolutely any acrylic or polyurethane lacquer on a well degreased surface should do if applied correctly with a good aerograph. Back in the day when I worked in national puppet theatre I used clear 2 parts spray paint usually used to refresh headlamps. It was surprisingly not too glossy and the thickness of the layer could be measured in microns so it wasn't even noticeable that there was some isolation layer there. I wonder how would that work on camera but only tests could tell you. You can also add one step to the whole process - masking. I bet it would seem to be unnecessary but fixing inconsistencies in post for sure will be a chore. And I bet that in longer shots this discoloration or oxidation will be visible. I doubt that you have the same stuff as we have in Poland but as I remember the brand of 2 parts headlamp lacquer was auto-k or kwasny. I also used some epoxy paints but they tend to be crumbly.
@@MapedMod Thanks for the details, I'll save that, might come in handy some time :) ...Seems like you had a really awesome job back then! "Aerograph" is the magic ingredient it seems, I don't have one of those... On most characters in the movie I really like the natural patina, and when I want to keep something really shiny I gold-plate it, it's mostly for customer projects and my "products" there this might be perfect... I'll keep it in mind for now. There is also a special wax ("renaissance wax") I want to try out which apparently also does a really good job at preventing oxidation, leaves a very thin invisible layer and wouldn't require an aerograph...
Bei den vielen Disziplinen die für dieses Filmprojekt zusammenkommen frage ich mich ob du komplett autodidakt bist oder ein Handwerk z.B. Feinmechaniker gelernt hast? So oder so Respekt und viel Erfolg!
Danke! - Die handwerklichen und künstlerischen Aspekte sind autodidakt über viele Jahre und mit viel Übung erlernt, aber ich habe einige Problemlösungs-Strategien im Studium (Informatik) aufgeschnappt und viel über die Metallverarbeitung durch TH-cam Videos gelernt, zB. von Stefan Gotteswinter, This old Tony, Clickspring... :)
Interesting metalworking info here, most excellent!,,, yes,fingertips and fingernails are very useful tools.
Unless the workpiece is still hot. @#$!
Maybe you already know about it but if you want that glow around the lights(halation) you can try a Tiffen Black Pro-Mist 1 filter, might work.
Yes, a filter would probably produce a nice glow in camera, but it would be unfeasible to take it off for every bluescreen-exposure I think, and also it's impossible to adjust... Maybe on another occasion, for now the compositing process is also very efficient. :)
There is a really interesting video from This Old Tony in which he makes a screwdriver for LOOK MUM NO COMPUTER. It might be nothing for you since the forces you are dealing with are minimal while assembling the characters but I switched to this type of a gunsmith screwdrivers. Since you work with brass I would assume you could use some to keep your screws from slightly deforming.
Also you could pult a thin layer of lacquer to strop the bronze/brass from staining/ I bet it wouldn't be visible between shots and could help with the consistency.
Yes, I've seen this video of TOT, and it's a really good screwdriver shape! However, the watchmakers screwdrivers I'm using actually have a similar geometry at the tip, with nearly parallel flats, the only problem is that they are a tiny bit too thin sometimes. But there is also quite a bit of variation in the with of the slits in the screwheads, so that's hard to avoid I guess...
And yes, lacquer would probably work, but I don't want to have any visible layer - Do you have a type you would recommend? For something like the housing I kind of like the patina too, and on many mechanical parts lacquer would probably wear off or prevent a perfect fit in the first place... But I should certainly learn to use it for the occasions where it's suitable. ;)
@@ValentinFelder absolutely any acrylic or polyurethane lacquer on a well degreased surface should do if applied correctly with a good aerograph. Back in the day when I worked in national puppet theatre I used clear 2 parts spray paint usually used to refresh headlamps. It was surprisingly not too glossy and the thickness of the layer could be measured in microns so it wasn't even noticeable that there was some isolation layer there. I wonder how would that work on camera but only tests could tell you.
You can also add one step to the whole process - masking. I bet it would seem to be unnecessary but fixing inconsistencies in post for sure will be a chore. And I bet that in longer shots this discoloration or oxidation will be visible.
I doubt that you have the same stuff as we have in Poland but as I remember the brand of 2 parts headlamp lacquer was auto-k or kwasny. I also used some epoxy paints but they tend to be crumbly.
@@MapedMod Thanks for the details, I'll save that, might come in handy some time :)
...Seems like you had a really awesome job back then!
"Aerograph" is the magic ingredient it seems, I don't have one of those... On most characters in the movie I really like the natural patina, and when I want to keep something really shiny I gold-plate it, it's mostly for customer projects and my "products" there this might be perfect... I'll keep it in mind for now. There is also a special wax ("renaissance wax") I want to try out which apparently also does a really good job at preventing oxidation, leaves a very thin invisible layer and wouldn't require an aerograph...
Bei den vielen Disziplinen die für dieses Filmprojekt zusammenkommen frage ich mich ob du komplett autodidakt bist oder ein Handwerk z.B. Feinmechaniker gelernt hast? So oder so Respekt und viel Erfolg!
Danke! - Die handwerklichen und künstlerischen Aspekte sind autodidakt über viele Jahre und mit viel Übung erlernt, aber ich habe einige Problemlösungs-Strategien im Studium (Informatik) aufgeschnappt und viel über die Metallverarbeitung durch TH-cam Videos gelernt, zB. von Stefan Gotteswinter, This old Tony, Clickspring... :)