I knew I forgot to do something, got a chunk of a trunk that now cracked up. And I have a gallon of wood glue just sitting right next to it. Damn. Thanks for the tip going forward
I really do appreciate the info I just started getting into wood carving been cutting trees for years and now I’m finally ready todo something now with the wood I cut ahaha I waited long enough. Cut down a black walnut the other day it had been about 3-4 days so hopefully I’m not too late!! I’m grabbing that tomorrow good sir thank you!!
@@dekurvajo for those who may wonder - Elmer's glue is a brand and has many different glue products, not all are PVA. School glue, washable glue, etc - white glue is pva.
I had wood floor start to get punky on me from the office desk rolling chair so I used outdoor waterproof wood glue - my idea was to use it to have the wood absorb the glue and strengthen the wood and produce a hard surface for the rolling chair and it worked out great!
I just had an oak tree come down during Zeta and was looking for wood sealer. I google wood sealer and your TH-cam video was one of suggestions. Thanks for inform, no chemicals to worry about.
Try washing up liquid. It works well too, particularly on green turned bowls which you can finish when they dry. The bowls get out of shape but rarely crack.
Most any product that has a adhesive effect will work, but, if you apply your favorite sealer then cover it with Saran wrap it will do a wonderful job.
Thanks for the video I've been looking for something better to try on the end of logs before I sawmill them I have a beautiful white oak log that I want a quarter saw and I don't want the boards cracking and checking.
I agree, I've been sealing end grain on very expensive woods and somehow on my own ended up using that. No odor, no running, cost effective, easy to apply, water clean-up, no wax to contaminate finishes, it's perfect.
I have been using Tight Bond to seal logs when I make lumber for a few years now and it works great except it does dull steel plainer blades when it is on the face of the board.
Thanks Rick, The only place I found that carried Anchorseal was Woodcraft. And knowing that, they price it at a little over $30/gal. At roughly half that price, I'll switch over to Titebond. Great money saver buddy! AND lots of stores carry it as well.
Great tip and easy to follow video, thanks :) I have a large, dried stump of spelted beech I want to make into an outdoor coffee table (I live in Scotland so needs to be able to put up with the rain....) after sanding do you think I could use titebond as a sealant/varnish?
I used this technique because I ran out of the ronseal end-grain sealer. Farmer next door gave me a whole sycamore tree branches and all, and I spent a good 12 hours making blanks and then ran out of sealer. All I could find was a big bottle of old PVA kids glue left over from my mum entertaining the grand kids. Used both exactly the same results yet the kids PVA was 25% of the cost of the sealer.. lol
for the last 40 minutes I have been reading on forums what sealer to use and there is no consensus. paraffin, anchorseal, paraffin/mineral spirits, roofing paint, glue...each person says one of these is junk and only buy anchorseal. Well, proof is in the doing and your experiment helped me in my decision. I will be using titebond from now on. I use it in my shop already and so don't have to buy something else. Thanks for this vid.
Exactly, use something that has a dual purpose, especially since it works, i to have been reading these forums and live 40 mins from the Woodsmith store but 3 mins from Ace I’ll go for the glue and save my time to cut blanks
Even if you double or triple seal the ends, a log left outdoors won't last very long without developing some splits. If you're leaving them outside for sitting, I'd say don't bother sealing them.
Great video Rick, there is a big "taboo" about products to do this type of work and i think you nailed it right! The only question I have is, do you think a log will loose moisture by its sides when the bark is still present? I was watching a video yesterday of a guy milling a 3 years old log, he was trying to make the point , a log will not loose moisture or humidity UNTIL it is milled (the log was still with 44% humidity content)...would love to hear your comments!
Sorry for the long delay in answering your question, Francisco - I thought I had answered some days back, but it’s still in my unanswered queue. My experience is that the sides of the log do not need to be sealed. I always seal the ends of logs, of course. Usually that works well, but I don’t let the sealed logs rest to long before I cut them up into slabs, and at that point, I seal the ends again.
I am milling logs that have been cut down for 3 years and they are sopping wet on the inside. Don't believe a word that these guys say that do this EVERYDAY, they don't know and are just feeding you lies.
Hi Rick awesome video thanks for posting I have a question this winter I let just about a whole gallon of Titebond 3 in the building and I'm sure most likely froze scared to use it on projects do you think it would work for this
I have some white pine 8X10 roof timbers that have ends exposed to the outside. They are stained with a water based semi transparent stain. Can I use this glue to seal the ends to prevent water penetration?
If they are stored outside, you should probably use Titebond 3, which is waterproof. The stain that’s already there shouldn’t have any affect. If the timber’s are built into a building, the glue will still seal them, but I’m not sure how long it would last.
If the mortar was turned when the wood was still fresh, it might not be possible to keep it from cracking. You can try to seal it with varnish, but if the mortar is actually used, the varnish would probably be quickly worn away. You could try a wood sealer, but that may be incompatible with food use due to chemicals. I don’t think there is a solution here - if it was me, I’d start over, turning a mortar from dry wood.
@RickTurnsWoodturning Thank you for your comment. I have found 2 mortars in natural wood. How they were turned do not know. I am just trying to preserve them, so I was looking for food grade organic wood oil without mineral oil.
Great information especially considering the price of some of the end grain products. Do you think there's any reason to seal wood that's been kiln dried.
I've found it's better to cut it in half lengthwise before putting it aside. I'd suggest storing in your workshop if you room, rather than outside. It's also better to rough turn it as soon as you can, leaving the sides and bottom at a thickness of about 10% of the diameter.
I feel dumb but I don't get it. I know the purpose of holding in the moisture, but are you simply sealing it to cut it off and expose it to use at a later date?
The glue or any other sealer will not stop the loss of moisture. The purpose is to slow it down. If the wood dries out slowly, it is much less likely to crack. Even a sealer coat will not stop the eventual splitting. I use it to protect the wood until I can get around to rough turning it, and then drying the rough-turned bowl blanks.
Thanks Rick! I just rescued some Manitoba Maple and some black walnut this weekend. It's all huge pieces about 2.5ft in diameter. Still need to cut out the pith, but I'll definitely be buying some titebond to seal it! -Spiritwynd aka Heather
Hi Rick. I am beginner for the wood turning. One week ago i got fresh cut cherry logs and i was used same glue to seal the ends. Was applied one coat. Hire is a video how it was done: th-cam.com/video/5xfmBWUWWS4/w-d-xo.html Logs was stored in my heated garage last week and now i found a lot of green mildew spots all around the sealed ends surface. Just on top of the glue. Du you have any idea why that mildew begin grow? Thank you so much!
Hi, Vasiliy. I haven't had a problem with mildew, but I suspect it's just from humidity. I don't think it would discolor the wood inside the log. You could chop off a thin slice from the end of the log just to be sure.
$17 for a gallon of Titebond?! Blimey they see us coming here in New Zealand. I paid >NZ$100 for a gallon of Titebond 3, the only good news being that's more than I need, so I now have a good idea of how to use the excess.
That would be around $64US. That’s very expensive. I can get a gallon of Titebond 3 for around $38US. Titebond 3 is more expensive than Titebond, but, wow, you are really paying a lot!
I did use melted parafin for a short while, but it was too much trouble to melt it every time I wanted to seal a log. I did see on woodturner who kept a large pot of melted wax on the heat all day long, so that he could easily use it. Thanks for watching, Eggman.
I have occasionally used it on end grain of bowl blanks while in the drying box, to protect against splitting. Works fine. I haven’t used it to coat a bowl blank for air drying, but I imagine it would work well.
Rick, I have been buying Anchorseal by the gallon at the GA regional symposiums from Big Monk Lumber since I started going almost 10 years ago. He buys it in the 55 gal barrel and breaks it down into gal jugs for $12! Great buy, great vendor. Good to know PVA glue will work in a pinch.
Hi Rick, I have a question. I have some black walnut wood slices about 1½" thick and 14" around. I want to seal them to prevent cracking. I'm thinking of trying the titebond. Do you think that would work and would I coat one side or both?
I would put two coats of Titebond on each side. That might work, but with a whole log section, it’s iffy. I had a log section of walnut about two inches thick that I made a clock of. After a couple of weeks, even though it had multiple coats of varnish, it developed a split radiating from the center, about a half inch at the outer edge. But after a couple of months, it pulled back together, and you can’t tell there was ever a split there. That really surprised me!
Wow, thanks for this informative video. Just picked up two mahogany logs about 3 ft in diameter and need something quick to seal them tonight so I can put them away in storage for when I finally decide to use them
I have never done that myself. You’d have to use some really coarse grit sandpaper, I think. Two coats of Titebond make a really thick covering. Good luck with it!
i tried to sand PVA based glue off sometimes. Its almost impossible to sand. its up the paper. I would cut it down the end with blade thickness or half.
absolutely. if you dilute it, it could soak into the grains as well, depending on how wet or dry is the wood. calcium hydrate and water plus the glue is the way to save more money. loosing the advantage of the transparency though.
yes me too. I also use wood glue (pva) on plywood edges to stop chipping, cracking. There is one thing you might have to be careful with. its not 100% waterproof. Sometimes the transparent coat turns to milky when its get wet. But then its again turns back transparent when its dry. I wont use it for things where quality is highly required. although if you put wax on it this kind of decolorisation will never happens.
Unless I missed something ... and it is entirely possible that I did ... all this talk ... and never a mention of HOW MUCH, what dilution ... if any ... ?? Critical point omitted ... !!
Hi, Jon. I use it undiluted, right from the bottle. I have a friend who waters it down 1:1, and he says it works fine.I’ve never used it diluted, so I don’t know myself which is better. It might be that a watered down solution soaks into and seals the end grain better. Guess I should try that sometime.
Great video. Could I ask you a question? I want to seal up a log that will be used in an art project. I have removed the bark and sanded it down slightly. Could I use Titebond to do the entire log? I would be happy if it also darkened it up a bit. It's a piece of ash that has been dead for some time. I was thinking of sealing it, or staining it, but this might do both? Thanks!
I doubt that sealing the sides of the log would do much to prevent it from splitting. To darken it some, you could use varnish, which will provide a small amount of sealing. Sealing the ends of the log is the best way of preventing splitting, although over the long run, it will probably still split.
Looking to seal a bunch of freshly cut oak logs to use as simple outdoor stools. Not looking for anything super durable or a hi tech. Just want to make sure there is a clean surface to put my butt on. Also don’t have time to dry them for 6 months. So for the exterior use, would you recommend tight bond III which is supposedly waterproof? Thx
Yes, for outdoor use, sounds like Titebond III would be a better idea. I’ve never made anything for outdoor use, but I have sealed logs with Titebond and left them outside for nearly a year with almost no splitting. So a waterproof version of Titebond would probably be even better, I would suggest two coats.
Took the advice and bought a gallon of Titebond to seal some newly milled timber. Total waste of time and money. Checked today and something resembling dead omelette upto half inch thick coating the end grain. The Titebond will do for my carpentry but as Anchorseal isn't available at usual suppliers (Amazon etc) I'm still looking.
Hi, Lloyd. Sorry it didn’t work for you. What do you mean, a half inch thick coating? Did the glue swell after it was applied? What kind of wood is it? I’ve used it on maple, oak, sycamore, and ash, all with excellent results. I have put it on one type of wood where it didn’t seem to retard splitting at all, but I don’t know what kind of wood that was.
I put the Titebond on straight out of the bottle. I have a friend, however, who dilutes it 1:1 with water and gets good results. Thanks for watching, Jon.
Just fyi, don't try this for sealing endgrain on log slices or thin pieces of wood for making coasters or whatever. I foolishly just made this mistake, i think the moisture from the glue soaked in and warped them all to hell. Probably should have done more research. Oh well. Live and learn.
I’ve used this on logs - the thinnest cutoff I put it on was about two inches and that did okay. Never have tried any really thin pieces. Thanks for the tip!
the titebond 3 is even better glue waterproof and all #1 best glue . did you use the regular elmer's glue or the carpenter's type glue. I'm sure all titebond will work great not much difference between the 3 different types they have.
Titebond would probably be a better sealer, but I found it was significantly more expensive. The Elmer’s glue I used was the white plain kind. I don’t recall if I ever tried yellow wood glue. Thanks for watching and commenting, CJ.
It will still slower evaporate from the ends and from the other exposed surfaces. It just won’t exit as fast from the end-grain, thus reducing the stresses that cause splitting.
That would help some, but storing the logs outside will make the logs split more quickly, I’m afraid - that was my experience some years back. Now I cut the logs into large slabs, heavily coat the ends, and stack them in my workshop.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning thank you!. My logs will be hewed into timbers. They will be quite long and then they will be outside as I build. I figured I would paint the ends as I fell them. and the bark will only be cut away as I start to hew
As soon as possible, turn it! Sealing the ends of the log slows the moisture loss from the end grain but the wood can still split. So roughing out a bowl or something is the best option.
Titebond has a waterproof formulation, and that might work. I’ve never tried. My experience with wood left outdoors is that there’s not much that can really prevent it from splitting eventually.
hi what is the red vice have it looks exactly like my grand fathers. his has mount tai wrote on it wonder if you have more information on the vice and history thanks!
I cut down a black walnut about 2 months ago, it's been sitting outside and starting to crack at the ends. is it too late to cut the ends off to end seal them?
I think your best bet is to cut off the split ends and then cut the logs lengthwise, removing the pith at the center, then sealing the end of the log halves. And then storing out of the weather, preferably indoors. That’s the best to save the wood from splitting. That’s what I usually do, although I’ve found a few wood species seem to resist splitting even in the whole log (with the sealer on, of course). I’ve had some sycamore and ash logs in my workshop for 6-8 months now and they’re showing no signs of splitting. On the other hand, I’ve got some maple logs that were cut down about a month ago, and they are starting to split, in spite of two coats of glue sealer - so I’ve got to chainsaw it into blanks as soon as I can.
I have been using Anchorseal original (not Anchorseal 2) for several years with good results, and I purchased it directly from the manufacturer in a 5 gallon container (too much product!). Running out now and will try the Titebond. I see you are using Titebond regular, any thoughts on Titebond 3 as it is "waterproof"?
I haven't tried Titebond 3. Actually, I didn't even know it existed. So I just looked it up on Amazon. It's $28\gal. Given that, I'll stick with the less expensive version. It works great!
You guys, will this waterproof wood for exterior use? I'm making one of those garden paths with freshly cut cookies (downed wood from the last hurricane) and need to protect and waterproof them.
Hello, I am having a maple tree cut down to use mostly for bowl blanks. I bought a gallon of latex paint to seal the end grains but titebond seems to be a better option. Have you used latex paint to seal wood? Which one do you think will seal it better? I am new to wood turning.
I have used latex paint, but found it to be a poor sealant. Titebond glue is not particularly expensive and does an excellent job. I’ve also tried Elmer’s glue, which did okay, and I’ve used Anchorseal, which did not do as well as Titebond. Good luck with your maple - it makes beautiful bowls.
You seal it immediately, as soon as possible after you cut it. If you let it dry, it will develop cracks fairly quickly. Thanks for watching my video, Lady T.
No indeed! That glue blocks any finish. Since I’m only putting it on the chainsawn end grain of a log, the glue-covered wood gets turned away as I rough out the bowl.
Ty for this tip. I have made a few mixtures trying to keep my logs check free. I even tried melting the wax on but the seal seems to let go after some time.
I did use melted wax for a while, but I’ve found that the Titebond glue works better. It works best if you can keep the sealed logs out of the weather.
Thanks for sharing... I do have Titebond... I had been using melted wax lately... But I haven't used it long enough to give any concrete report... Thanks again for sharing...
I saw a video from one woodturner who always kept a large pot of melted paraffin in his workshop to treat the ends of logs (he got a lot of fresh logs from local tree removal services). But I only get green wood occasionally, so it’s too much trouble to melt the wax. Thanks for watching, Travis.
Thank you. I used to glue the corners of a Bee Hive... and just noticed that after a few months how the area under the glue has kept its original color and character. I used the Titebond BLue Container which is an outdoor moisture-resistant glue. but after seeing the results I have been thinking of thinning it and using it as an exterior coating for the whole box.
Thanks for the info Rick. I had a piece of Mimosa that I didn't seal and in three months it turned into kindling at best. I have some cherry and walnut logs that I don't want the same to happen to. Since I can't find any Anchorseal locally and already have some Titebond on hand, I will give it a try. Thanks again, Dave.
My woodturning club buys Anchorseal in 55 gallon drums and sells it for $10 a gallon, so I've been using that by default. The Titebond looks like a better performer though, and an extra few dollars won't cause me to break into the piggy bank -- so you've made a convert. Btw -- where do you find those great tee shirts? A couple of them have made me cackle with glee :-) Clyde
Maybe your club would buy Titebond in 55 gallon drums! Thanks for noticing my tshirts. Some I have had made with sayings that I find funny. Others are ones I have found online in my ceaseless quest for humor in menswear.
Question Rick... I have a very large oak cookie that was cut today. I'm planning on turning it in to a table eventually. If I treat both ends of the cut this way, do you think it will work? Its about 5 inches thick and the size of a truck tire. I really don't want to buy Pentacryl.
Do you know if the glue would interfere with the epoxy curing properly? Can I put polyurethane over it on a cedar piece? Thank you for the video, I love that glue, just never thought to use it to seal anything.
Hi, Susan. The glue will sit on top of the wood - it doesn’t penetrate very far at all, and when you turn the wood, all that surface wood is going to be removed. So the glue won’t interfere with any kind of finish. I’ve used polyurethane, lacquer, oil, and shellac over wood I’ve sealed with glue. Thanks for watching my video!
I haven’t tried that, but I’m a little dubious. You need an air-impenetrable barrier on the end grain, I think. I’ve gotten such good results with the glue straight out of the bottle, that I haven’t tried anything else. Now that I think about it though, a friend told me he was using Titebond diluted 1-1 with water, and it was working quite well. Still, diluting it is too much trouble for me! Thanks for watching, Michael.
I knew I forgot to do something, got a chunk of a trunk that now cracked up. And I have a gallon of wood glue just sitting right next to it. Damn. Thanks for the tip going forward
I really do appreciate the info I just started getting into wood carving been cutting trees for years and now I’m finally ready todo something now with the wood I cut ahaha I waited long enough. Cut down a black walnut the other day it had been about 3-4 days so hopefully I’m not too late!! I’m grabbing that tomorrow good sir thank you!!
Just had 2-32”x20 ft oak logs sliced into 2” thick slabs that I want to dry stack and you just gave me the answer on edge sealer, thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much. I never would have thought glue would be the best end grain sealer.
Thanks for watching, Tjandra.
Great tip Rick, I've been using PVA glue for a number of years, and it does a good job too. Informative video my friend.
Take care
Mike
Thanks, Mike!
I think elmer glue is PVA. PVA has a very unique vinegar-alcohol like smell.
@@dekurvajo for those who may wonder - Elmer's glue is a brand and has many different glue products, not all are PVA. School glue, washable glue, etc - white glue is pva.
i guess it is quite randomly asking but do anybody know of a good place to stream newly released tv shows online ?
I had wood floor start to get punky on me from the office desk rolling chair so I used outdoor waterproof wood glue - my idea was to use it to have the wood absorb the glue and strengthen the wood and produce a hard surface for the rolling chair and it worked out great!
Good idea! Thanks for the tip, Marvel.
I just had an oak tree come down during Zeta and was looking for wood sealer. I google wood sealer and your TH-cam video was one of suggestions. Thanks for inform, no chemicals to worry about.
Thanks for watching my videos, George.
I will be trying this! I cant afford $70 pentacryl for wood cookies! Ty!!!
It works great. Thanks for watching!
Right!
Hi Rick perfect just what I needed to know thank you
Regards
Steve UK London
Try washing up liquid. It works well too, particularly on green turned bowls which you can finish when they dry. The bowls get out of shape but rarely crack.
I would never have thought of using dishwashing liquid. Thanks for the information, John.
Most any product that has a adhesive effect will work, but, if you apply your favorite sealer then cover it with Saran wrap it will do a wonderful job.
I never thought of using plastic wrap. Thanks for the tip, Ray.
Thanks for the video I've been looking for something better to try on the end of logs before I sawmill them I have a beautiful white oak log that I want a quarter saw and I don't want the boards cracking and checking.
Good tip. I'll give it a shot.
I hope it works as well for you as it does for me. Thanks for watching, Tom.
I agree, I've been sealing end grain on very expensive woods and somehow on my own ended up using that. No odor, no running, cost effective, easy to apply, water clean-up, no wax to contaminate finishes, it's perfect.
And you can also use it to glue wood together! Thanks for watching, zz.
I have been using Tight Bond to seal logs when I make lumber for a few years now and it works great except it does dull steel plainer blades when it is on the face of the board.
I didn’t realize the coating was that tough. Thanks for the information, Jason.
Thanks Rick, The only place I found that carried Anchorseal was Woodcraft. And knowing that, they price it at a little over $30/gal. At roughly half that price, I'll switch over to Titebond. Great money saver buddy! AND lots of stores carry it as well.
Thanks, Charlie.
Great advice !
Thanks for watching, Ariel.
Thanks!!!!
Thanks for watching, David.
I love your shirt! Thanks for the tutorial as well
Thank you, Kevin.
Thank your for this upload, saved me some money :p
Good to hear! Thanks for watching.
Thank you Rick
Thanks for commenting, Scott.
Great tip and easy to follow video, thanks :) I have a large, dried stump of spelted beech I want to make into an outdoor coffee table (I live in Scotland so needs to be able to put up with the rain....) after sanding do you think I could use titebond as a sealant/varnish?
Titebond 3 is waterproof, but regular Titebond is not. I’d go with a marine spar varnish. Thanks for watching, Jenny.
thanks for the tip
Thanks for watching, Righteous.
I used this technique because I ran out of the ronseal end-grain sealer. Farmer next door gave me a whole sycamore tree branches and all, and I spent a good 12 hours making blanks and then ran out of sealer. All I could find was a big bottle of old PVA kids glue left over from my mum entertaining the grand kids. Used both exactly the same results yet the kids PVA was 25% of the cost of the sealer.. lol
In my case, the glue is less than half the cost of anchorseal. And I can also use it as wood glue. Thanks for watching.
for the last 40 minutes I have been reading on forums what sealer to use and there is no consensus. paraffin, anchorseal, paraffin/mineral spirits, roofing paint, glue...each person says one of these is junk and only buy anchorseal. Well, proof is in the doing and your experiment helped me in my decision. I will be using titebond from now on. I use it in my shop already and so don't have to buy something else. Thanks for this vid.
Thanks for watching!
Exactly, use something that has a dual purpose, especially since it works, i to have been reading these forums and live 40 mins from the Woodsmith store but 3 mins from Ace I’ll go for the glue and save my time to cut blanks
Anyone ever leave logs outside to sit on ? Do you treat them . Mine are in a grass area
Even if you double or triple seal the ends, a log left outdoors won't last very long without developing some splits. If you're leaving them outside for sitting, I'd say don't bother sealing them.
Great video Rick, there is a big "taboo" about products to do this type of work and i think you nailed it right! The only question I have is, do you think a log will loose moisture by its sides when the bark is still present? I was watching a video yesterday of a guy milling a 3 years old log, he was trying to make the point , a log will not loose moisture or humidity UNTIL it is milled (the log was still with 44% humidity content)...would love to hear your comments!
Sorry for the long delay in answering your question, Francisco - I thought I had answered some days back, but it’s still in my unanswered queue. My experience is that the sides of the log do not need to be sealed. I always seal the ends of logs, of course. Usually that works well, but I don’t let the sealed logs rest to long before I cut them up into slabs, and at that point, I seal the ends again.
I am milling logs that have been cut down for 3 years and they are sopping wet on the inside.
Don't believe a word that these guys say that do this EVERYDAY, they don't know and are just feeding you lies.
Hi Rick! Could you use this on pressure treated wood ends that have been cut?
Yes, you could. Hope you're not planning on turning pressure treated wood - toxic!
@@RickTurnsWoodturning No turning. Only measured end cuts on the mitre saw.
Great! Just cut down a 3' thick pecan tree x 60'. Is it best to put on ASAP?
Yes indeed. As soon as possible. If you can, store it out of the weather.
Hi Rick, I’m giving it a go right now on some cherry my dad got me from
a local tree feller, regards
Terry in the UK
Cherry is a great wood for turning. Thanks for watching, Terry.
Hi Rick awesome video thanks for posting I have a question this winter I let just about a whole gallon of Titebond 3 in the building and I'm sure most likely froze scared to use it on projects do you think it would work for this
Hi, Todd...must be cold where you live! The manufacturer of Titebond says it can be frozen and thawed as many as five times and still be useable.
I have some white pine 8X10 roof timbers that have ends exposed to the outside. They are stained with a water based semi transparent stain. Can I use this glue to seal the ends to prevent water penetration?
If they are stored outside, you should probably use Titebond 3, which is waterproof. The stain that’s already there shouldn’t have any affect. If the timber’s are built into a building, the glue will still seal them, but I’m not sure how long it would last.
Could someone please help ???!!! How to keep an African Oji wood mortar from cracking ???!!!
If the mortar was turned when the wood was still fresh, it might not be possible to keep it from cracking. You can try to seal it with varnish, but if the mortar is actually used, the varnish would probably be quickly worn away. You could try a wood sealer, but that may be incompatible with food use due to chemicals. I don’t think there is a solution here - if it was me, I’d start over, turning a mortar from dry wood.
@RickTurnsWoodturning Thank you for your comment. I have found 2 mortars in natural wood. How they were turned do not know. I am just trying to preserve them, so I was looking for food grade organic wood oil without mineral oil.
How about walnut oil? It’s available on Amazon.
Thanks buddy
Thanks for watching, James.
Here I am, six coats of regular ol' finish and it CONTINUES TO SOAK IT UP fuehebvehdhchebrhhd😂
Since it is an interior product how would work on logs stored outside
Titebond III is waterproof, and should be used if you store the wood open to rain. Thanks for watching, Kenneth.
Great information especially considering the price of some of the end grain products. Do you think there's any reason to seal wood that's been kiln dried.
No, kiln dried wood is already out of danger. It’s also usually thin enough (1 or 2 inches) so that it’s not under much stress from humidity changes.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning Kind of figured, just making sure. Sure do appreciate the feedback.
Thanks for the suggestion. I tried it, but I have to say it doesn't work nearly as good as ANCHORSEAL does.
I used anchorseal some years back, and didn’t find it all that effective. And it is expensive. Thanks for watching , Alvaro.
How long will you leave the big log till you use it? and how will you store it? thanks :)
I've found it's better to cut it in half lengthwise before putting it aside. I'd suggest storing in your workshop if you room, rather than outside. It's also better to rough turn it as soon as you can, leaving the sides and bottom at a thickness of about 10% of the diameter.
I feel dumb but I don't get it. I know the purpose of holding in the moisture, but are you simply sealing it to cut it off and expose it to use at a later date?
The glue or any other sealer will not stop the loss of moisture. The purpose is to slow it down. If the wood dries out slowly, it is much less likely to crack. Even a sealer coat will not stop the eventual splitting. I use it to protect the wood until I can get around to rough turning it, and then drying the rough-turned bowl blanks.
Thanks Rick! I just rescued some Manitoba Maple and some black walnut this weekend. It's all huge pieces about 2.5ft in diameter. Still need to cut out the pith, but I'll definitely be buying some titebond to seal it! -Spiritwynd aka Heather
Tote one works great! Thanks for watching, Spiritwynd (I love that name).
Hi Rick. I am beginner for the wood turning. One week ago i got fresh cut cherry logs and i was used same glue to seal the ends.
Was applied one coat. Hire is a video how it was done: th-cam.com/video/5xfmBWUWWS4/w-d-xo.html
Logs was stored in my heated garage last week and now i found a lot of green mildew spots all around the sealed ends surface. Just on top of the glue.
Du you have any idea why that mildew begin grow?
Thank you so much!
Hi, Vasiliy. I haven't had a problem with mildew, but I suspect it's just from humidity. I don't think it would discolor the wood inside the log. You could chop off a thin slice from the end of the log just to be sure.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning Got it. Thank you.
$17 for a gallon of Titebond?! Blimey they see us coming here in New Zealand. I paid >NZ$100 for a gallon of Titebond 3, the only good news being that's more than I need, so I now have a good idea of how to use the excess.
That would be around $64US. That’s very expensive. I can get a gallon of Titebond 3 for around $38US. Titebond 3 is more expensive than Titebond, but, wow, you are really paying a lot!
Looks like your using the interior. Im guessing the exterior would be better for outside...
Hey Rick! I hope you are well. Do you use the glue straight up or do you thin it at all?
I use it straight from the can. I have a friend who dilutes it 1:1 with - he reports good results.
I just boil grandma’s candle wax and dunk the wood end in the boiling wax, works great and cheap
I did use melted parafin for a short while, but it was too much trouble to melt it every time I wanted to seal a log. I did see on woodturner who kept a large pot of melted wax on the heat all day long, so that he could easily use it. Thanks for watching, Eggman.
Hi Rick, can the Titebond be stained?
I haven’t tried it, but I’m pretty sure the answer is no.
Have you used it as a drying method on the end grain of green turned roughs.
I have occasionally used it on end grain of bowl blanks while in the drying box, to protect against splitting. Works fine. I haven’t used it to coat a bowl blank for air drying, but I imagine it would work well.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning 6 days in on hickory it it looks good. I just covered all the end grain on the outside. Fingers crossed.
Memory improves on a low carb diet...👍
Rick, I have been buying Anchorseal by the gallon at the GA regional symposiums from Big Monk Lumber since I started going almost 10 years ago. He buys it in the 55 gal barrel and breaks it down into gal jugs for $12! Great buy, great vendor. Good to know PVA glue will work in a pinch.
Now that's a good price!
I tried titebond on one end of bowl blank and anchorseal on other. So far glue has no checks!
Hi Rick, I have a question. I have some black walnut wood slices about 1½" thick and 14" around. I want to seal them to prevent cracking. I'm thinking of trying the titebond. Do you think that would work and would I coat one side or both?
I would put two coats of Titebond on each side. That might work, but with a whole log section, it’s iffy. I had a log section of walnut about two inches thick that I made a clock of. After a couple of weeks, even though it had multiple coats of varnish, it developed a split radiating from the center, about a half inch at the outer edge. But after a couple of months, it pulled back together, and you can’t tell there was ever a split there. That really surprised me!
Thank you for responding! I really appreciate it!
Would this work on a plywood project for outdoor use?
Thank you
Probably not. I’ve sealed the edges of plywood before, and it doesn’t help much. You probably need marine-grade plywood.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning thanks for your reply.
Wow, thanks for this informative video. Just picked up two mahogany logs about 3 ft in diameter and need something quick to seal them tonight so I can put them away in storage for when I finally decide to use them
Thanks for watching!
If you are making a end table with a trunk, and you seal it with this, how do you get it off by sanding?
I have never done that myself. You’d have to use some really coarse grit sandpaper, I think. Two coats of Titebond make a really thick covering. Good luck with it!
i tried to sand PVA based glue off sometimes. Its almost impossible to sand. its up the paper. I would cut it down the end with blade thickness or half.
Sand it with a chain saw!!
What can be used to thin tightbond? I'm looking for exterior uv resistant rot resistant sealer for my redwood pergola.
Water.
Do you cut the Titebond with water or use it straight from the jug?
Straight from the bottle. I think diluting it might form less of a seal.
absolutely. if you dilute it, it could soak into the grains as well, depending on how wet or dry is the wood. calcium hydrate and water plus the glue is the way to save more money. loosing the advantage of the transparency though.
Great advice, been using it from beginning, works great.....
Thanks for watching. Tomislav.
Brilliant, thanks 👍
Good idea. I use wood glue as a finish sometimes , it’s great.
Thanks for commenting, Tom.
yes me too. I also use wood glue (pva) on plywood edges to stop chipping, cracking. There is one thing you might have to be careful with. its not 100% waterproof. Sometimes the transparent coat turns to milky when its get wet. But then its again turns back transparent when its dry. I wont use it for things where quality is highly required. although if you put wax on it this kind of decolorisation will never happens.
What is wrong with using the right thing to finish wood ?
Unless I missed something ... and it is entirely possible that I did ... all this talk ... and never a mention of HOW MUCH, what dilution ... if any ... ?? Critical point omitted ... !!
I thought it was clear from the video what I was doing - guess not!😀 I don’t dilute it at all. I use one coat.
In the comments Rick mentions a friend that dilutes it 1:1 /water to titebond
Does it matter which one of the tite bonds you use I know they have a 1, 2 and 3
I have always used the cheapest one, which is plain Titebond (1). I believe Titebond 3 is waterproof. I don't recall what Titebond 2 is.
did you experience putting on over a 2 x 6 end? What is your comment on that?
and do you say its paintable?
I didn’t put it on any construction lumber...is that what you mean? I just do the ends of logs, for making turning blanks.
What would you recommend for sealing, keeping the end grain from coming apart, I am making wood coasters? Thank.
Titebond glue. Once turned, however, any finish would be fine.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning thanks
THANK YOU SIR THIS WAS EXCELLENT IDEA THANK AGAIN
Thanks for watching, Jose.
Great tip! Thank you for sharing
Thanks, SP!
Do you use it straight from the bottle or do you water it down?
Hi, Jon. I use it undiluted, right from the bottle. I have a friend who waters it down 1:1, and he says it works fine.I’ve never used it diluted, so I don’t know myself which is better. It might be that a watered down solution soaks into and seals the end grain better. Guess I should try that sometime.
Great video. Could I ask you a question? I want to seal up a log that will be used in an art project. I have removed the bark and sanded it down slightly. Could I use Titebond to do the entire log? I would be happy if it also darkened it up a bit. It's a piece of ash that has been dead for some time. I was thinking of sealing it, or staining it, but this might do both? Thanks!
I doubt that sealing the sides of the log would do much to prevent it from splitting. To darken it some, you could use varnish, which will provide a small amount of sealing. Sealing the ends of the log is the best way of preventing splitting, although over the long run, it will probably still split.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning Thank you for your quick reply!
So Varnish instead of titebond then?
That would probably do what you want it to do - good luck!
Looking to seal a bunch of freshly cut oak logs to use as simple outdoor stools. Not looking for anything super durable or a hi tech. Just want to make sure there is a clean surface to put my butt on. Also don’t have time to dry them for 6 months. So for the exterior use, would you recommend tight bond III which is supposedly waterproof? Thx
Yes, for outdoor use, sounds like Titebond III would be a better idea. I’ve never made anything for outdoor use, but I have sealed logs with Titebond and left them outside for nearly a year with almost no splitting. So a waterproof version of Titebond would probably be even better, I would suggest two coats.
Took the advice and bought a gallon of Titebond to seal some newly milled timber. Total waste of time and money. Checked today and something resembling dead omelette upto half inch thick coating the end grain. The Titebond will do for my carpentry but as Anchorseal isn't available at usual suppliers (Amazon etc) I'm still looking.
Hi, Lloyd. Sorry it didn’t work for you. What do you mean, a half inch thick coating? Did the glue swell after it was applied? What kind of wood is it? I’ve used it on maple, oak, sycamore, and ash, all with excellent results. I have put it on one type of wood where it didn’t seem to retard splitting at all, but I don’t know what kind of wood that was.
Rick,
Fo you apply yhe Tite bond glue right out of the jug or do you thin it with domething? Irnjoy your videos. Yhank you for sharing.
Jon
I put the Titebond on straight out of the bottle. I have a friend, however, who dilutes it 1:1 with water and gets good results. Thanks for watching, Jon.
Would this work with Gorilla glue?
Now that’s an interesting idea! I haven’t tried gorilla glue. I suspect it might be better. And I’m pretty sure it would be a lot more expensive.
Just fyi, don't try this for sealing endgrain on log slices or thin pieces of wood for making coasters or whatever. I foolishly just made this mistake, i think the moisture from the glue soaked in and warped them all to hell. Probably should have done more research. Oh well. Live and learn.
I’ve used this on logs - the thinnest cutoff I put it on was about two inches and that did okay. Never have tried any really thin pieces. Thanks for the tip!
the titebond 3 is even better glue waterproof and all #1 best glue . did you use the regular elmer's glue or the carpenter's type glue. I'm sure all titebond will work great not much difference between the 3 different types they have.
Titebond would probably be a better sealer, but I found it was significantly more expensive. The Elmer’s glue I used was the white plain kind. I don’t recall if I ever tried yellow wood glue. Thanks for watching and commenting, CJ.
How does the moisture work out of the pieces?
It will still slower evaporate from the ends and from the other exposed surfaces. It just won’t exit as fast from the end-grain, thus reducing the stresses that cause splitting.
Should I use the waterproof version if it's staying outside?
That would help some, but storing the logs outside will make the logs split more quickly, I’m afraid - that was my experience some years back. Now I cut the logs into large slabs, heavily coat the ends, and stack them in my workshop.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning thank you!. My logs will be hewed into timbers. They will be quite long and then they will be outside as I build. I figured I would paint the ends as I fell them. and the bark will only be cut away as I start to hew
What do you do with the wood after it's dried?
As soon as possible, turn it! Sealing the ends of the log slows the moisture loss from the end grain but the wood can still split. So roughing out a bowl or something is the best option.
I have outdoor log posts for deck railing, they will be cut then stained, do you think Titebond will work after I use an outdoor stain on the logs?
Titebond has a waterproof formulation, and that might work. I’ve never tried. My experience with wood left outdoors is that there’s not much that can really prevent it from splitting eventually.
Do you seal both ends?brush it on?
Yes indeed, both ends. I’ll also do about 1-2 inches on the surface of the cut, unless I plan to cut it into smaller blanks in the near future.
hi what is the red vice have it looks exactly like my grand fathers. his has mount tai wrote on it wonder if you have more information on the vice and history thanks!
It’s just a plain old machinist’s vise. I don’t even remember where I got it from - I’ve had it a long time.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning does it have the MOUNT TAI wrote on it ? looks exactly like the one I have from grand father
No, doesn’t have that on it. I guess your granddad and don’t shop at the same stores 😉
I cut down a black walnut about 2 months ago, it's been sitting outside and starting to crack at the ends. is it too late to cut the ends off to end seal them?
I think your best bet is to cut off the split ends and then cut the logs lengthwise, removing the pith at the center, then sealing the end of the log halves. And then storing out of the weather, preferably indoors. That’s the best to save the wood from splitting. That’s what I usually do, although I’ve found a few wood species seem to resist splitting even in the whole log (with the sealer on, of course). I’ve had some sycamore and ash logs in my workshop for 6-8 months now and they’re showing no signs of splitting. On the other hand, I’ve got some maple logs that were cut down about a month ago, and they are starting to split, in spite of two coats of glue sealer - so I’ve got to chainsaw it into blanks as soon as I can.
How well would this work for sealing red pine logs that are going to sit out and dry for a year? I am building a log cabin in the future
Probably not all that great. Use Titebond 3 (waterproof) if you're storing them outside. That might work.
I have been using Anchorseal original (not Anchorseal 2) for several years with good results, and I purchased it directly from the manufacturer in a 5 gallon container (too much product!). Running out now and will try the Titebond. I see you are using Titebond regular, any thoughts on Titebond 3 as it is "waterproof"?
I haven't tried Titebond 3. Actually, I didn't even know it existed. So I just looked it up on Amazon. It's $28\gal. Given that, I'll stick with the less expensive version. It works great!
You guys, will this waterproof wood for exterior use? I'm making one of those garden paths with freshly cut cookies (downed wood from the last hurricane) and need to protect and waterproof them.
I’m not sure how well it would do under long-term exposure to weather. Thanks for watching, Catsin.
Hello, I am having a maple tree cut down to use mostly for bowl blanks. I bought a gallon of latex paint to seal the end grains but titebond seems to be a better option. Have you used latex paint to seal wood? Which one do you think will seal it better? I am new to wood turning.
I have used latex paint, but found it to be a poor sealant. Titebond glue is not particularly expensive and does an excellent job. I’ve also tried Elmer’s glue, which did okay, and I’ve used Anchorseal, which did not do as well as Titebond. Good luck with your maple - it makes beautiful bowls.
Elmer's has come out with an exterior, waterproof wood glue. I'll be testing it on some fresh cut mulberry.
Sounds like it would work better. The waterproofing should make it more resistant to moisture loss. Thanks for watching, Holly.
Do you have to let it dry for months after cutting or can you seal it immediately and have in outdoor use?
You seal it immediately, as soon as possible after you cut it. If you let it dry, it will develop cracks fairly quickly. Thanks for watching my video, Lady T.
Thank you rick I'm in North Carolina
Thanks for watching, Todd
Very nice information. Have you try to polish the wood after the glue is very dry to se how it looks?
No indeed! That glue blocks any finish. Since I’m only putting it on the chainsawn end grain of a log, the glue-covered wood gets turned away as I rough out the bowl.
Are you still recommending titebond?
Yes indeed. I buy the cheapest gallon size I can find. I’m not sure if that’s Titebond 2 or just Titebond.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning the red is the original, the green label is titebond 3, and the blue label is titebond 2
Ty for this tip. I have made a few mixtures trying to keep my logs check free. I even tried melting the wax on but the seal seems to let go after some time.
I did use melted wax for a while, but I’ve found that the Titebond glue works better. It works best if you can keep the sealed logs out of the weather.
You should have put an amazon affiliate link up it’s $26 now
Wow, you're right. It's been a while since i bought a gallon. Anchorseal is up to $44 a gallon. Bummer!
Good tip, Rick. Although it's $37 at Amazon UK. I'm going to have stick to standard pva, works ok for me. (Now, where's my lottery numbers?) lol
Bryan
I used white glue for a number of years before I switched to Titebond. Thanks for watching, Bryan.
Thanks for sharing... I do have Titebond... I had been using melted wax lately... But I haven't used it long enough to give any concrete report... Thanks again for sharing...
I saw a video from one woodturner who always kept a large pot of melted paraffin in his workshop to treat the ends of logs (he got a lot of fresh logs from local tree removal services). But I only get green wood occasionally, so it’s too much trouble to melt the wax. Thanks for watching, Travis.
Thank you. I used to glue the corners of a Bee Hive... and just noticed that after a few months how the area under the glue has kept its original color and character. I used the Titebond BLue Container which is an outdoor moisture-resistant glue. but after seeing the results I have been thinking of thinning it and using it as an exterior coating for the whole box.
Sounds like it would work well!
Thanks for the info Rick. I had a piece of Mimosa that I didn't seal and in three months it turned into kindling at best. I have some cherry and walnut logs that I don't want the same to happen to. Since I can't find any Anchorseal locally and already have some Titebond on hand, I will give it a try. Thanks again, Dave.
I’m sure it will work for you, Dave. I think it woks a lot better than Anchorseal, which I stopped using years ago.
My woodturning club buys Anchorseal in 55 gallon drums and sells it for $10 a gallon, so I've been using that by default. The Titebond looks like a better performer though, and an extra few dollars won't cause me to break into the piggy bank -- so you've made a convert. Btw -- where do you find those great tee shirts? A couple of them have made me cackle with glee :-) Clyde
Maybe your club would buy Titebond in 55 gallon drums! Thanks for noticing my tshirts. Some I have had made with sayings that I find funny. Others are ones I have found online in my ceaseless quest for humor in menswear.
Question Rick... I have a very large oak cookie that was cut today. I'm planning on turning it in to a table eventually. If I treat both ends of the cut this way, do you think it will work? Its about 5 inches thick and the size of a truck tire. I really don't want to buy Pentacryl.
Wow, that’s a big chunk of wood! I would put two heavy coats of Titebond on each side, then store it indoors, if at all possible. Good luck with it!
@@RickTurnsWoodturning It is! Thanks for the reply, I really appreciate it. I will give it a go. Great video.
Do you know if the glue would interfere with the epoxy curing properly? Can I put polyurethane over it on a cedar piece? Thank you for the video, I love that glue, just never thought to use it to seal anything.
Hi, Susan. The glue will sit on top of the wood - it doesn’t penetrate very far at all, and when you turn the wood, all that surface wood is going to be removed. So the glue won’t interfere with any kind of finish. I’ve used polyurethane, lacquer, oil, and shellac over wood I’ve sealed with glue. Thanks for watching my video!
@@RickTurnsWoodturning thank you so much. 😊
Would there be any benefit to watering the glue down - would it penetrate further?
Michael from Canada
I haven’t tried that, but I’m a little dubious. You need an air-impenetrable barrier on the end grain, I think. I’ve gotten such good results with the glue straight out of the bottle, that I haven’t tried anything else. Now that I think about it though, a friend told me he was using Titebond diluted 1-1 with water, and it was working quite well. Still, diluting it is too much trouble for me! Thanks for watching, Michael.
Thank you Rick, was looking for something to use and low and behold your video. Thanks for that. Have a nice day.
Thanks for watching and commenting, Peter.