Thanks for explaining WHY wood checks at the ends!! When you flipped the board over, I could really visualize the wood stresses involved!! Great video!!
Hi Matt, I had similar experience with Latex - I have good luck with Driveway Sealer and it's much cheaper than Anchor Seal - that said - If I had as nice of hardwood logs as you - Anchor Seal makes sense - thanks for sharing!
Awesome! thanks for sharing... I use the same stuff, and noticed on some of the thinner pieces i have ( thinner meaning i "sliced" off some pieces around 4" thick from a log about 4' diameter. i was thinking of using them as table tops once they dry but i have noticed they are checking and cracking pretty badly. Do you know why that would be? Thanks, Charlie
Thanks for the info. I make furniture with wooden logs, not slabs or any traditional carpentry, more like sculptural with the logs. What would you recommend to prevent extreme cracking? I know the humidity has to be released one moment or another but if you have any input I would appreciate very much.
I would love it if you did a video talking about different chainsaws you have used for milling and help set some expectations for those just getting started in chainsaw milling. Also advice on which power of saw we should get for different thicknesses of wood and where you get the chain for your milling chainsaw.
070 stihl $500 from holtzfarma. It is a clone, but she works damn well. Cut through 20 white oak slabs on a mill off Amazon cheap. Buy the guide. I ended having to anyhow...best of luck my doode
Hi , Thanks a lot for the great info! I see you still answer questions so a quick few for you: I have 12" pine cookie I got, it was cut 2 days ago so first thing first I'm going to add layer of anchorseal. My questions are - does 1 layer is enough? how long will it take it do air dry? Will it dry in New England weather (snow and rain) or I'll need to cover it? Should I sand first and then put anchorseal or only after it dries?
So helpful, thanks! Where do you store your lumber? And how long does it need to dry before it's milled? I have a slice out of the trunk of a green tree that was just cut down and I'm curious how long after sealing it up I should wait before working with it.
Hey Matt, I've chainsawed a few small logs and I've had good success preventing splitting by getting a cup of regular wood glue and thinning it out with some water. Painting that on the end-grain seems to work a little better than latex paint. Could be an easy/cheap option if you ever run out of the Anchorseal
Hi Michael -- did you let these logs that you put the diluted wood glue on dry out outside or inside in a climate-controlled area? I think I'll try what you mentioned...but wanted to know that one thing.
great video i just got a tree cut down in my back yard and got a log cut to make some stools for the backyard. What do I put on them to seal them? I want to keep the bark on them. thanks so much
Matt, thanks for promoting end sealing of logs, it certainly can improve quality and yield. There were a couple points that, from a sawyer's perspective, I was concerned about. As far as end coating materials, it has been my experience that tar and roofing coatings are detrimental to the process. Tar will gum up the blade and may leave streaks on the ends of the boards. Many roof coatings are great for waterproofing but are formulated with fiberglass or aluminum fibers which aren't good for the blade. As far as paint, oil-based does take longer to dry but is significantly better at blocking moisture. Paints also cover the end grain and, although you can usually find the pith, it blocks the sawyer's view of things such as rays, spalting, and metal contamination. If logs have been down for a week, or more, it is probably better to trim off a few inches before coating. Keep up the good work.
+Tom Hogard thanks for the info, Tom! Over the years people have suggested some pretty thrifty options. Roof coatings seemed like one of the better things I've heard since it would actually seal up the log but great points regarding the cut performance.
Hi Matt, We just had an ornamental pear tree cut down in our front yard and I kept a good deal of the trunk and a few hefty limbs about 8" diameter and probably 5' long. I cut the 21" diameter trunk into roughly 19" long stumps because I want to eventually strip the bark, sand them and use them for rustic stump seats or stools just like they are but I'm not sure how long to dry them outside before I can finish them or if I should go ahead and seal the ends or what I need to do to prepare them or prevent them from cracking real bad, do you have any advice please? Thank you....
Is it ever too late or not worth sealing the ends. I have just milled some Norwegian spruce that has been on the ground for a year. Didnt remember to do it before milling. I see some checking already, not too bad. Is sealing worth the effort at this point? Thanks for your input. Love the channel
Matt, I have several mesquite logs that have been stewing in my scrap pile for many years. They are at nearly 5000ft elevation in Southern Ariizona. My question is do you have any suggestions for projects to make with them or how to treat them. I don't think they are too badly checked and there is some useful wood in there somewhere. They're not very big with the biggest being a little more than 6-8 inches in diameter but they're very heavy. I'll send some pictures if you want.
Hey how you doing boss I really like your videos and I have learned a lot I would like to ask you a question bought a piece of land in Maine I live in Florida I want to build a cabin with my bare hands is going to be my first time how long should I let the logs dry keep it in mind I don't have so much time to be going up and down the cabin is not going to be for vacation is kind of beef for me living on it you recommend me letting the logs dry out or just built what the wet logs
Matt, Latex paint is porous so even though it slows down water loss it does not stop it and I believe the loss from a latex painted end grain will still be somewhat faster than the long grain. I would imagine, and it is a guess, that the amount of any cracking etc would be reduced though.
I'm not at the point of buying huge logs yet but love the tip about painting the ends before milling. Seems this would be much easier and a time saver. Great content!
I'm in Arizona and have a giant eucalyptus I'm trying to seal. It checks really quickly and is 3' in diameter. Should I seal the sides, or is there anything I can do to slow the checking until I can cut slabs? I'm desperate. Maybe sprinkling it with water?
Hey matt, I just got some domestic mulberry. It was cut down about a year ago and wasnt sealed. I recut the ends to seal them, should I cut back all the way until no cracking is found? Or just seal it ?
Question. I just ordered a cooks sawmill, and I won't get it till spring, so mean while I have been gathering logs. Always heard about painting ends but never new the importance of it. Most logs have been cut 3 or 4 weeks ago, so is it to late to seal them? Or to cold?
Very interesting. Have you got some logs, which were sealed with Anchor Seal right after they were freshly cut? Just for comparison. I am curious to see how noticeable the difference is.
Great info...once sealed will that affect staining or painting the wood when used. If I seal end grain of my deck boards can I then stain down the road. Thanks.
I just found some large logs that have been down for a little over 2 years. Would they still be good for milling and do I bother sealing the ends up since they have been down for so long?
Watched again = DOUBLE-LIKE. Hi Matt. Funny, we enjoy our woodworking presenters and sharing fellows. Yet, of course, you do not know us. AnyWayz, thanks and Be Well
Great information on the why and how to slow it down. I was watching a bench build video and I can’t remember who’s video it was but they laminated the top and then applied Anchor Seal to the end grain, is there something I’m missing because I would think at lamination time your wood not only should be dry but also all the wood should have been trimmed or roughly cut to length. So why put Anchor Seal on the end grain????
no construction grade lumber where i live is stored indoors kiln dried thrown out into the open air rain n snow hits them . this is one way that would help i'm talking 4x4's post pressure treated. and not treated , osb and 2 x 4 etc all stores outside kiln dried i tell ya Canada Ass backwards around here
they store there garbage ass Mdf shit indoors like who the fuck wants that shit lol , excuse my language i live in a world made of MDF . lets cuts down these treees chip them up make them into MDF and PLYwood lol . sounds like a good idea. nothing is made of real wood anymore unless you build it yourself cost like 4500 for a decent dresser i'm talking shaker style lol of maple .
Good tip on reducing some of the checking. I just pick my 3’ wide logs up on end and dip them in my pool of anchor seal. Isn’t that the way everybody else does it? Saves on brushes. The jump at the end was just you showing off because I’m guessing a lot of your audience (like me) are over 50 anyway. We were Jack LaLane prodigies don’t you know!
Hey Matt Is it better leave the log or slab it right away? And do you leave the bark on while it drys? I heard somewhere that insects can live under the bark and eat the cambium layer
Walker Industries with multiple facilities in the USA and Canada have Aqua Seal at less than half the cost of Anchor Seal. 1 gallon, 5 gallon, 55 gallon, tanker car, cheaper the larger lot. I picked up 2 5 gallon buckets today. I formerly saw Associated Chemists in threads, now Walker Industries, @t .
I just got a stack of 36" cookies back from my sawyer and he recommended Pentacryl. Anyone have experience with this vs. Anchorseal? Just curious if one coat of Pentacryl on each side is sufficient for 3" thick cookies.
Anytime of year for Walnut, I do almost all Walnut at my sawmill and harvest my own Timber, Some say in the fall when the sap is down but I have found that not to be true in my area,
Depends on my mood. This one I'm thinking I will cut so the splaying is contained in both side of the slabs so I'll have some highly spalted slabs and some clean ones
How long do you wait on sappy stuff like pine? Do you also seal it immediately or do you think waiting a few days makes sense? Or do you just turn you nose up to sappy soft woods? Lol
I just got some beech cookies, 10cm thick and 60cm in diameter, from a friend and sealed one with woodglue and the other with laquer. Curious what will be the difference, if there is any. By the way, sealing logs seems to be an appropriate task for your older boy, to get him into the business. May be the Anchorseal won't last as long......But hey.....
Have you ever tried submerging a log for a few years underwater? Old techniques that are a bit too time consuming - but I'm really interested if those logs cracked at all. They submerged them because the water disolved the resin out of the logs, making them quite resistant to anything really
Hey Matt! Great video! On a related topic, what is your opinion regarding taking the bark off the tree before Milling? Some of the so-called experts say that the bark really dulls the ripping chain. Would love to hear your opinion on this. Thanks Matt!
Bark will usually contain abrasive stuff like sand, dirt, and rocks especially if the log has touched the ground. Removing the bark isn't usually very easy and I'd rather spend my time doing something else.
Nice video, nice jump! Good info. When you say "ask Matts" when you are winded.... Well, it sounded like you said something else. I giggled, then realized what you really said.
Great video as always Matt. I noticed that you were using Anchorseal 2 in your video and it was very runny... but I've seen other people use Anchorseal '1' and it's been like a paste wax, is one more suitable over the other? I'm guessing that it's easier to apply the runny type, but wondered if they were made for different jobs?
Matthew Cremona Ah I see, I saw someone using it to seal freshly milled timbers for a frame and they had to apply it using a rag as it was so waxy. Either way, it certainly seems beneficial in preventing checking, which is always a good thing :) Awesome jump at the end too, I'd never be able to do that!
AS is about 50% wax and AS2 is about 30% wax. AS2 uses "plant-based polymers" to make up the difference. AS is about twice as thick as AS2, but it's still very much a paintable material. Like paint, you need to keep the container sealed and cool to keep it from drying out (which is my guess with the folks using rags). AS2 is slightly cheaper than AS, and AS2 is slightly easier to spray. With AS2, there is some risk that the blend will separate, maybe that's why Matt says it use to be thicker.
Scott Dial Thank you Scott, that would explain it :) Are they for different purposes or does it just depend on personal preference? The AS2 would seem easier to apply.
Lol you paid $83 in 2014 now it’s $189 + shipping. Wow how it has gone up. Great video as always. Oops that was 3 rd party seller. From UC coatings just $108 + shipping. So not to bad after 9 years of inflation.
If you have the luxury of leaving a tree in place, is there any advantage to topping the tree, ringing the bottom to prevent nutrient flow, and then having it die/dry out while still in place vertically?
Thanks Matt for your reply. I guess it is too late because I have collected about 30 walnut logs about 2 years ago and put them in my outdoor shed to keep them out of the weather but I did not seal them. I guess I am screwed right. Good for firewood only.
Sheesh. Now your just making me feel old jumping up on that log.... and I'm not that much older than you! Enjoy the warm weather I hear winter is coming back next week!
@@mcremona thanks. I'm trying to treat some beehives to preserve the wood and I'm trying to find something non-toxic I could also paint over since I had some anchor seal I thought it would work it applied to my hive boxes. Its looked good when I try to apply a little bit to the corners but I guess I'm just looking for the aesthetics plus preservation
My 2 cents: devote a roller cage with a 3/4" nap cover to living inside that 5 gallon bucket. As long as you have a bucket less than half full you'll never have to clean a brush and sealing will take a fraction of the time of a brush.
Thanks for explaining WHY wood checks at the ends!! When you flipped the board over, I could really visualize the wood stresses involved!! Great video!!
awesome to hear! Thanks!!
I remembered this video from years ago, and as I am starting to make my own things, I really appreciate you taking the time to answer this question!
An old carpenter told me to use white wood glue and newspaper on the ends, works very well.
Nice explanation. First time watcher. You are very relatable
Great Matt, I wish I could jump on a log like that, well perhaps 30 years ago.
Hi Matt, I had similar experience with Latex - I have good luck with Driveway Sealer and it's much cheaper than Anchor Seal - that said - If I had as nice of hardwood logs as you - Anchor Seal makes sense - thanks for sharing!
Awesome! thanks for sharing... I use the same stuff, and noticed on some of the thinner pieces i have ( thinner meaning i "sliced" off some pieces around 4" thick from a log about 4' diameter. i was thinking of using them as table tops once they dry but i have noticed they are checking and cracking pretty badly. Do you know why that would be?
Thanks,
Charlie
Love my anchorseal! What the hell are assmatts?
+John LeJeune probably something I need when I'm sitting at my desk all day
Thanks for the info. I make furniture with wooden logs, not slabs or any traditional carpentry, more like sculptural with the logs. What would you recommend to prevent extreme cracking? I know the humidity has to be released one moment or another but if you have any input I would appreciate very much.
I use a construction latex wall sealant, looks very similar to Anchorseal which I assume is latex based as well. Seems to work fine
What is it ?
I would love it if you did a video talking about different chainsaws you have used for milling and help set some expectations for those just getting started in chainsaw milling. Also advice on which power of saw we should get for different thicknesses of wood and where you get the chain for your milling chainsaw.
070 stihl $500 from holtzfarma. It is a clone, but she works damn well. Cut through 20 white oak slabs on a mill off Amazon cheap. Buy the guide. I ended having to anyhow...best of luck my doode
Thanks for the info Matt! 👍👊 ....I remember when I was young and could jump like that...... BTW, Love the intro! 😀
Glad you liked and loved those :D
Great video Matt. Using a roller might be easier than a brush.
Hi , Thanks a lot for the great info! I see you still answer questions so a quick few for you:
I have 12" pine cookie I got, it was cut 2 days ago so first thing first I'm going to add layer of anchorseal. My questions are -
does 1 layer is enough?
how long will it take it do air dry?
Will it dry in New England weather (snow and rain) or I'll need to cover it?
Should I sand first and then put anchorseal or only after it dries?
Matt, is this method used by the hardwood sellers? Or are the different colored paints on the ends of the boards to mark it by species?
So helpful, thanks!
Where do you store your lumber? And how long does it need to dry before it's milled?
I have a slice out of the trunk of a green tree that was just cut down and I'm curious how long after sealing it up I should wait before working with it.
Hey Matt, I've chainsawed a few small logs and I've had good success preventing splitting by getting a cup of regular wood glue and thinning it out with some water. Painting that on the end-grain seems to work a little better than latex paint. Could be an easy/cheap option if you ever run out of the Anchorseal
Hi Michael -- did you let these logs that you put the diluted wood glue on dry out outside or inside in a climate-controlled area? I think I'll try what you mentioned...but wanted to know that one thing.
Do you apply one or more coats? How long does it take for a large log to dry? Thanks
great video i just got a tree cut down in my back yard and got a log cut to make some stools for the backyard. What do I put on them to seal them? I want to keep the bark on them. thanks so much
Matt, thanks for promoting end sealing of logs, it certainly can improve quality and yield. There were a couple points that, from a sawyer's perspective, I was concerned about. As far as end coating materials, it has been my experience that tar and roofing coatings are detrimental to the process. Tar will gum up the blade and may leave streaks on the ends of the boards. Many roof coatings are great for waterproofing but are formulated with fiberglass or aluminum fibers which aren't good for the blade. As far as paint, oil-based does take longer to dry but is significantly better at blocking moisture. Paints also cover the end grain and, although you can usually find the pith, it blocks the sawyer's view of things such as rays, spalting, and metal contamination. If logs have been down for a week, or more, it is probably better to trim off a few inches before coating. Keep up the good work.
+Tom Hogard thanks for the info, Tom! Over the years people have suggested some pretty thrifty options. Roof coatings seemed like one of the better things I've heard since it would actually seal up the log but great points regarding the cut performance.
Hi Matt,
We just had an ornamental pear tree cut down in our front yard and I kept a good deal of the trunk and a few hefty limbs about 8" diameter and probably 5' long. I cut the 21" diameter trunk into roughly 19" long stumps because I want to eventually strip the bark, sand them and use them for rustic stump seats or stools just like they are but I'm not sure how long to dry them outside before I can finish them or if I should go ahead and seal the ends or what I need to do to prepare them or prevent them from cracking real bad, do you have any advice please?
Thank you....
Great job Matt
Will removing the bark from the wood you have applied sealant to help the wood dry out any faster?
Thanks for the info. I now understand what causes checking.
Is it ever too late or not worth sealing the ends. I have just milled some Norwegian spruce that has been on the ground for a year. Didnt remember to do it before milling. I see some checking already, not too bad. Is sealing worth the effort at this point? Thanks for your input. Love the channel
If I just Milled a log that was sitting out for a year, is it too late to put on Anchorseal? Thanks
Matt, I have several mesquite logs that have been stewing in my scrap pile for many years. They are at nearly 5000ft elevation in Southern Ariizona. My question is do you have any suggestions for projects to make with them or how to treat them. I don't think they are too badly checked and there is some useful wood in there somewhere. They're not very big with the biggest being a little more than 6-8 inches in diameter but they're very heavy. I'll send some pictures if you want.
Thanks for the info Matt, good to know. With all the effort to cut down, transport and mill, it makes a lot of sense. Did a double take on that jump.
Hey how you doing boss I really like your videos and I have learned a lot I would like to ask you a question bought a piece of land in Maine I live in Florida I want to build a cabin with my bare hands is going to be my first time how long should I let the logs dry keep it in mind I don't have so much time to be going up and down the cabin is not going to be for vacation is kind of beef for me living on it you recommend me letting the logs dry out or just built what the wet logs
Didn't you seal up a oak cookie about a year ago with anchor seal? How's that doing/drying?
Matt, Latex paint is porous so even though it slows down water loss it does not stop it and I believe the loss from a latex painted end grain will still be somewhat faster than the long grain. I would imagine, and it is a guess, that the amount of any cracking etc would be reduced though.
would applying more anchor seal to the ones that are checking, ,ie in the checks , help prevent further ingress of the check .
I'm not at the point of buying huge logs yet but love the tip about painting the ends before milling. Seems this would be much easier and a time saver. Great content!
Great info Matt :) I've been using PVA D3 to seal the ends of logs for a long time and it's been working well for me ॐ
Is there a brand name or a source?
I'm in Arizona and have a giant eucalyptus I'm trying to seal. It checks really quickly and is 3' in diameter. Should I seal the sides, or is there anything I can do to slow the checking until I can cut slabs? I'm desperate. Maybe sprinkling it with water?
Hey matt, I just got some domestic mulberry. It was cut down about a year ago and wasnt sealed. I recut the ends to seal them, should I cut back all the way until no cracking is found? Or just seal it ?
Question. I just ordered a cooks sawmill, and I won't get it till spring, so mean while I have been gathering logs. Always heard about painting ends but never new the importance of it. Most logs have been cut 3 or 4 weeks ago, so is it to late to seal them? Or to cold?
Hello, I just got a tree log that was I’m trying to finish to make a table. But I’m having an issue with getting rid of the sap. Any advice?
Hi can I do this when using a few logs as stools in my yard?
Very interesting. Have you got some logs, which were sealed with Anchor Seal right after they were freshly cut? Just for comparison. I am curious to see how noticeable the difference is.
How long after applying Anchorseal Does it take to dry?
Great info...once sealed will that affect staining or painting the wood when used. If I seal end grain of my deck boards can I then stain down the road. Thanks.
I have done it, and it works. Just don’t get it on the top face.
I just found some large logs that have been down for a little over 2 years. Would they still be good for milling and do I bother sealing the ends up since they have been down for so long?
Whats the Difference between Classic Anchor Seal and the new Hybrid? have you use both, if so which one did you prefer?
Watched again = DOUBLE-LIKE. Hi Matt. Funny, we enjoy our woodworking presenters and sharing fellows. Yet, of course, you do not know us. AnyWayz, thanks and Be Well
Great information on the why and how to slow it down. I was watching a bench build video and I can’t remember who’s video it was but they laminated the top and then applied Anchor Seal to the end grain, is there something I’m missing because I would think at lamination time your wood not only should be dry but also all the wood should have been trimmed or roughly cut to length. So why put Anchor Seal on the end grain????
That seems odd to me. Only way that would makes sense is if they thought the lumber they used wasn't completely dry.
no construction grade lumber where i live is stored indoors kiln dried thrown out into the open air rain n snow hits them . this is one way that would help i'm talking 4x4's post pressure treated. and not treated , osb and 2 x 4 etc all stores outside kiln dried i tell ya Canada Ass backwards around here
they store there garbage ass Mdf shit indoors like who the fuck wants that shit lol , excuse my language i live in a world made of MDF . lets cuts down these treees chip them up make them into MDF and PLYwood lol . sounds like a good idea.
nothing is made of real wood anymore unless you build it yourself cost like 4500 for a decent dresser i'm talking shaker style lol of maple .
Matthew Cremona I’m glad you said that because I was thinking the same way but was like is there something I missed lol Thank You.
I was genuinely just searching around for information on this!
+Lynn Mckenney excellent timing then :)
Good tip on reducing some of the checking. I just pick my 3’ wide logs up on end and dip them in my pool of anchor seal. Isn’t that the way everybody else does it? Saves on brushes.
The jump at the end was just you showing off because I’m guessing a lot of your audience (like me) are over 50 anyway. We were Jack LaLane prodigies don’t you know!
Hey Matt Is it better leave the log or slab it right away? And do you leave the bark on while it drys? I heard somewhere that insects can live under the bark and eat the cambium layer
Sawing Old Logs - How long can I wait before sawing logs into lumber?
th-cam.com/video/yujbs4HfCqw/w-d-xo.html
Do you need to seal crosscut slabs that have a "length" of 5 to 6 inches?
Walker Industries with multiple facilities in the USA and Canada have Aqua Seal at less than half the cost of Anchor Seal. 1 gallon, 5 gallon, 55 gallon, tanker car, cheaper the larger lot. I picked up 2 5 gallon buckets today. I formerly saw Associated Chemists in threads, now Walker Industries, @t .
I just got a stack of 36" cookies back from my sawyer and he recommended Pentacryl. Anyone have experience with this vs. Anchorseal? Just curious if one coat of Pentacryl on each side is sufficient for 3" thick cookies.
How long does it take to dry a 24" log like that when the ends are sealed?
Question. If cutting down a live black walnut for lumber. What is best time of year?
Anytime of year for Walnut, I do almost all Walnut at my sawmill and harvest my own Timber, Some say in the fall when the sap is down but I have found that not to be true in my area,
So, speaking of the spalting in that log, do you typically slab to get a lot of spalting in one piece, or divide it across multiple slabs?
Depends on my mood. This one I'm thinking I will cut so the splaying is contained in both side of the slabs so I'll have some highly spalted slabs and some clean ones
After the log has been sealed with that, will you still be able to apply stain, BLO, polyurethane etc when your ready?
No, the ends will have to be trimmed off
How long do you wait on sappy stuff like pine? Do you also seal it immediately or do you think waiting a few days makes sense? Or do you just turn you nose up to sappy soft woods? Lol
How many outtakes were there with you jumping on the log lol. Very informative video. 👍
lol just one outtake, surprisingly
the air Jordan jump at the end was pretty impressive.
I just got some beech cookies, 10cm thick and 60cm in diameter, from a friend and sealed one with woodglue and the other with laquer. Curious what will be the difference, if there is any.
By the way, sealing logs seems to be an appropriate task for your older boy, to get him into the business. May be the Anchorseal won't last as long......But hey.....
Great tips
Keith Dufour
Louisiana Cypress
Have you ever tried submerging a log for a few years underwater?
Old techniques that are a bit too time consuming - but I'm really interested if those logs cracked at all.
They submerged them because the water disolved the resin out of the logs, making them quite resistant to anything really
Ha! Roll the intro! Really interesting video, Matt. I learned a lot.
hahaha thanks Bruce!
thank you Matt . question please . ripping chains for chain saw where do i find them
+Walter Rider I buy mine from baileys
thank you, so there is a difference in the chains ? i got a poulan 20 " so pr 5020
Hey Matt! Great video! On a related topic, what is your opinion regarding taking the bark off the tree before Milling? Some of the so-called experts say that the bark really dulls the ripping chain. Would love to hear your opinion on this. Thanks Matt!
Bark will usually contain abrasive stuff like sand, dirt, and rocks especially if the log has touched the ground. Removing the bark isn't usually very easy and I'd rather spend my time doing something else.
Has anyone ever tried Drylok basement waterproofing paint for sealing log ends?
Will hot wax , CA glue or wood glue work as well?
Titebound Original wood glue, 1/1 mix. Better if do two coats, 24hrs between coats. I found it to be the least expensive and works.
Nice video, nice jump! Good info.
When you say "ask Matts" when you are winded.... Well, it sounded like you said something else. I giggled, then realized what you really said.
+Bill Hart I'm all about the entertainment value
Cross Fit Lumber Jack move at 8:29.
Good job
Is there any way to fix cupped cross cut table tops
Hey Matt, I’ve heard that bees wax makes a good end grain sealer. Have you ever tried that?
Great video as always Matt. I noticed that you were using Anchorseal 2 in your video and it was very runny... but I've seen other people use Anchorseal '1' and it's been like a paste wax, is one more suitable over the other? I'm guessing that it's easier to apply the runny type, but wondered if they were made for different jobs?
+Edward Holmes I'm guessing mines just old. Used to be a bit thicker. More paintesque
Matthew Cremona Ah I see, I saw someone using it to seal freshly milled timbers for a frame and they had to apply it using a rag as it was so waxy. Either way, it certainly seems beneficial in preventing checking, which is always a good thing :) Awesome jump at the end too, I'd never be able to do that!
AS is about 50% wax and AS2 is about 30% wax. AS2 uses "plant-based polymers" to make up the difference. AS is about twice as thick as AS2, but it's still very much a paintable material. Like paint, you need to keep the container sealed and cool to keep it from drying out (which is my guess with the folks using rags). AS2 is slightly cheaper than AS, and AS2 is slightly easier to spray. With AS2, there is some risk that the blend will separate, maybe that's why Matt says it use to be thicker.
Scott Dial Thank you Scott, that would explain it :) Are they for different purposes or does it just depend on personal preference? The AS2 would seem easier to apply.
Question: for boards, how do you think shellac would work?
probably similarly to latex paint
Interesting about the different shrinking directions, didn't realise that was a thing
+Robin Lewis if you've ever heard quarter sawn moves less than plain sawn, that's why
Great video, thanks for sharing Matt!
thanks!
What can’t hook is that you used?
Ask Matt suggestion. You "stabilized some grain" a few videos back. Can that be done to salvage soft boards that have been left outside?
When using Latex paint have you ever had pigment stain the lumber?
No, it doesn't absorb very deep into the log
Cross Fit ending! nice.
Does sealing prevent mold?
Thanks for this vid!
How long will you wait to saw those trees up? Could you seal a tree and wait like 6 months before cutting them?
whenever I have time. Probably not for a few months. They could sit for a year or two before being sawn
Where did you get those shoes?
25 years ago I was handing out copies of "Understanding Wood" by Hoadley.
Lol you paid $83 in 2014 now it’s $189 + shipping. Wow how it has gone up. Great video as always. Oops that was 3 rd party seller. From UC coatings just $108 + shipping. So not to bad after 9 years of inflation.
If you have the luxury of leaving a tree in place, is there any advantage to topping the tree, ringing the bottom to prevent nutrient flow, and then having it die/dry out while still in place vertically?
The only advantage I can think of is it takes less space to store.
Matt, Do you have to seal the ends of Walnut logs or is it certain kinds of wood.
All species
Thanks Matt for your reply. I guess it is too late because I have collected about 30 walnut logs about 2 years ago and put them in my outdoor shed to keep them out of the weather but I did not seal them. I guess I am screwed right. Good for firewood only.
Do you think you would have made that jump at the end of the day after sawing and stacking a bunch of slabs?
+Kuffys Woodwork very unlikely
Can I paint all board? (because I have big crack)
Sheesh. Now your just making me feel old jumping up on that log.... and I'm not that much older than you! Enjoy the warm weather I hear winter is coming back next week!
I've got mad vertical! You enjoy the weather as well. You're not that far south hahaha
Matthew Cremona yeah, but to be fair, at what 5'6" you weigh maybe 130 at most? Depending on where you at in the hair-cut cycle?
I haven't weighed 130 since I was a freshman in highschool and 6" shorter hahaha
Wife and I literally lol’d at intro
+Bryn Lawrence hahaha good!
Thanks for the great info!
Hi can you paint over and anchor seal?
I doubt normal paint will adhere to it. It dries into a wax
@@mcremona thanks.
I'm trying to treat some beehives to preserve the wood and I'm trying to find something non-toxic I could also paint over since I had some anchor seal I thought it would work it applied to my hive boxes. Its looked good when I try to apply a little bit to the corners but I guess I'm just looking for the aesthetics plus preservation
ever consider explaining how you get those monster logs into boards? that would be worth seeing.
The Big Logs That Started It All
th-cam.com/play/PL0dX5redvVZS21PAgPkyM68_1PrI6tuBZ.html
See Matt paint! Watch paint dry! I'm guessing that the anchor seal might come in gallon containers.. Nice to be able to paint in late November.
Great explanation, thanks!
thank you!!
My 2 cents: devote a roller cage with a 3/4" nap cover to living inside that 5 gallon bucket. As long as you have a bucket less than half full you'll never have to clean a brush and sealing will take a fraction of the time of a brush.
Thank you, good info. This stuff looks like a water down wood glue...?
It's a wax emulsion. thanks!
What about rolling it on the end of the log seems like it would be a better coat
+Donald Callahan brush, roll, spray, or dip