All free plans I ever made here: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1636_O_7KVQ5hzWAhDXBornWnvxXfweba?usp=sharing GRINwood shop: www.etsy.com/shop/GRINwood Support GRINwood: PayPal: grinwooddesigns@gmail.com
Your spacer formula is clever. To describe the half-pin spacer size, some might find “half as wide” more intuitive than “twice as small”. But your fence-referenced sled is equally clever; totally free of limitations imposed by mitre gauge track locations. Bravo to both!
I spent all day looking for this video. Thanx, I will be giving this a try. I was waiting to see the router bit's half-moons on the inside and then wondered why you cut the tails narrower. To hide the half moons, brilliant.
Ciągle się uczę od mistrza. Ten film jest naprawdę pomocny. Miałem kupić przyrząd na jaskółczy ogon. Jeszcze raz dziękuję za pouczający i przyjemny film. Dobra robota !
MUY buena calidad, el texto imagenes. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO Un manuel muy completo y trabajado. Resulta muy práctico. Para principiantes y profesionales. Lo recomiendo
I got dovetail bits for Christmas and was trying to figure out how to do this in my head on the drive home. Thanks for this video. It really helped make sense of the spacing.
Brilliant! You've convinced me to try half blind dovetails. I've always done through dovetails with a false front. With a narrow bit like those for WoodRat this could make stunning drawers. Thank you!!!
The first narrower block was twice the width of the top of his dovetail bit. The second set of cuts the small block was the same width as the top of his router bit
Using floor laminates for straight smooth surface is genius, I have a few boxes laying in the storage, I'll be using this 100% for a workbench, thanks for the video.
What works well with laminate flooring is foam insulation board. You can quickly build strong, lightweight torsion boxes by wrapping insulation board in laminate. Put in timber, the same thickness as the insulation board, where you need something structural (joins, dog holes, etc). The insulation board adds strength, simplifies construction and stops the torsion box sounding like a drum. I used it for a couple of workbench tops and my router table top. It works well.
My father did all this by hand, without all these measuring instruments and sophisticated equipment. 50 years have passed, and his products are still used. It is a pity that I was small when he died and did not have time to learn from him. Greetings from Kazakhstan ✊
Two years later, 40,000 people have viewed this, 478 have commented. I read the first 100. Your method works, so kudos on that. It requires one router bit, and a lot of make-work shuffling two different spacers and stop blocks to get things to line up. The result is impressive. Of course, we now have people (on TH-cam) testing joinery, glues, and methods. Dovetails look cool, but are not very strong. So, yes, your method allows creating dovetails with one well-crafted router bit. If the goal is to have a pretty and ineffectual joinery method that takes a ton of work with two spacers and only one bit, you win the prize. If the goal is to have a high tensile joinery method that is easier to put together but doesn't look quite so sexy... well, the mortise and tenon win that one. As woodworkers evolve dovetails will be history. Octagonal wheels worked for a few seconds, but round ones overtook them and now we'd consider square or hexagonal or octagonal wheels... stupid. Thanks for the lesson in how to make a simple thing complex but pretend it's simple because "only one router bit." Now think to yourself how a woodworker did this with a chisel, you know, before "router tables". What did you teach him(/her)? Nothing.
Damn, why you so salty, let the man enjoy his joinery. Different joints for different applications, it's also aesthetically pleasing. What does this comment add of value to anyone? Nothing
BRAVO, I have seen a lot of ways to do dovetailing but this table saw and router table setup system is without a doubt the very BEST I have ever seen. I still prefer to do my dovetailing by hand but if I have to do a lot of them this method will be my way to go. Brilliant young man, just brilliant.
Excellent video. I've outlined the process step-by-step as I understood it below-feel free to comment/clarify if I missed any steps. Grinwood - Dovetails on the router table A) SPACERS (I’m not sure about this step) 1. measure top of dovetail bit 2. set up desired cut height and make test cut 3. measure bottom width of cut in the wood by router bit 4. add the two results for the width of your spacer 5. make a second spacer that is half the width of the first one B) Cut process: PINS BOARD 1. find and mark the board's center 2. mark center lines for two other pins using spacer (one on either side of the board's center line) 3. set bit height 4. clamp stop block on fence (equal or slightly less than thickness of tails board) 5. line up first cut using line drawn on table 6. place spacer and wedge in fence guide rail, lock fence 7. make first cut in pins board 8. remove spacer and move fence over to wedge, lock fence 9. make second cut in pins board 10. remove wedge, place spacer, replace wedge, remove spacer, move and lock fence 11. make third cut in pins board C) Cut process: TAILS BOARD 1. remove wedge, place 1/2 spacer, replace wedge, remove 1/2 spacer, move and lock fence 2. remove stop block from fence 3. stand tails board vertically, supported by backer board attached to miter gauge, right edge up against fence 4. clamp tails board to backer board 5. make first cut on tails board 6. unlock and move fence, place spacer between fence and wedge, lock fence 7. make second cut on tails board 8. remove spacer, move wedge next to fence, unlock and move fence, replace spacer, lock fence 9. make third cut on tails board 10. unclamp the tails board, move it left using spacer to determine distance from fence, re-clamp tails board 11. make final cut with router on tails board 12. remove a small amount of material from the inside face of the tails with the table saw so the tails can seat properly into the recesses on the pins board
Thank you. And I thank the creator of the video. I'm pretty handy, but I find this almost useless without narration as he works. All I get is a general idea every time I watch one of these. I going to have to call a friend who's done this before I attempt it. Also I searched for "simple for beginners" and all these videos immediately run over to a collection of tools worth more that the one or two projects that I'm planning. Some times they spend half the video making a jig without explaining. Is there a way without a table saw? Just a simple router and some templates? This is like watching a guitar instructor play "Stairway to Heaven" at full tempo and then saying "Here, just watch this once and you'll be ready to play at Madison Square Garden" LOL
I don't understand the measure on 2:30. How far ist the router away from the fence for the first cut in the second part of wood and is this the same height as before?
For A, you are correct or at least I agree with you. If you draw a picture with equal size pins and tails, you'll see the distance it takes for the pattern to repeat (wave length) is the sum of the big measurement and the small measurement.
@@datenkrake05 I don't think you want to rely on measurements. The big spacer is the distance it takes for the pattern to repeat. The second piece is cut in between the first pieces cuts, and that's why he uses the half-spacer. Note that you only use it once and then switch back to the full spacer to keep this offset throughout the second piece. If that doesn't make sense, look up some youtube videos on the porter cable dovetail jig and you'll see how the pieces are clamped offset of each other. That's what the half-spacer does.
Great, a nice improvement would be to make as many spacers as needed and number them, that way there would be no need to think about the order and there would be less chance of error.
Thanks, that's a pretty efficient and clever method. I have just tried it today, and it worked like a charm. One needs to be accurate in the measure to build the spacers. I'll make smart drawers thanks to you 🤗
Sebuah pengerjaan dengan penuh kehati hatian,menghasilkan karya yang bagus dan elegan ,sangat presisi,sehingga pertemuanya sangat pas dan rapi.mantap kawan tutorialnya sangat menginspirasi❤❤❤
I agree with John Heisz. The only comment I have for improvement is to use either a digital or dial caliper to show your measurements. I realize that you are located in Ukraine, but these are available at really cheap prices here in the states. In the video, I am just not able to comprehend the measurements quickly enough. With this minor exception, you have certainly simplified the process of making this joint. Good job! Now I just have to go back and replay until I can figure out the caliper measurements. 🤔
Hi Dan, I agree with you, a digital caliper would be easier for the viewer to see the measurements. I had to go back and watch it again. The top cutter measurement is 22.3 mm and bottom measurement is 14.1 mm making 36.4 mm width of spacer. I managed to get the measurements off his calculator.
Absolutely brilliant. Thank you for sharing this technique. I’m presently working on a project that will need dovetail joinery so watching your video couldn’t have been timed any better
Nice video. Wonderful job only using 1 dovetail cutter. I watched a video the other day where a dovetail joint was made using a Keller jig. The jig cost £178 which included 2 cutters that had to be changed halfway through the operation. Only problem with this method is that you end up with semi circular holes on the inside of the joint, which doesn't really matter if it's a box or drawer.
@@qwazy01 Yes, but how? I didn't get that part. He cut small part of the pins what made a cover but that seemed smaller than the half diameter of the gap's curve. So it shouldn't cover it. A good explanation would be appreciated.
@@seggremalac You can see in between shots on the half-blind part, he moved his stop block. You need to adjust the depth of the cut until the opening is the same as the thickness of the tails board. The end of that opening is a half-circle of a certain radius (half the root width of the tails). If you use the table saw to remove the same amount as the radius from the pins, then the pins won't interfere with that half circle, but the pins board's overhang will fully cover the hole. You could also use a small chisel to square the hole. Very little material would need to be removed. Or if you don't care about the holes being visible, you can just push the centerline of the bit to match the thickness of the tails board, and a small hole will be visible.
Make a notch in the stop block or put it slightly above the table so the dust can pass under it, then you don't have to make the same cut 3 times, backing off to clear the dust.
Then build it !!! I’m tired of seeing people complain about the coast of his set up. I have one similar that I built out of wood with a adjusting fence
Once again, I learn from the master craftsman. This video is really helpful and will save me a bunch of money in holding off on buying a dovetail jig. Thank you once again my friend for an educational and enjoyable video. I always get excited when I see you in my "bell" notification. Great job!
Always wanted to make a dovetail drawer but couldn't figure out the measurements. Tried a few times but couldn't get the right adjustment. Thanks for helping me with that. Now just need to buy a good dovetail router bit. Thanks for sharing...
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All free plans I ever made here:
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1636_O_7KVQ5hzWAhDXBornWnvxXfweba?usp=sharing
GRINwood shop:
www.etsy.com/shop/GRINwood
Support GRINwood:
PayPal: grinwooddesigns@gmail.com
@@area51audio ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
Explanation would have been nice
youtube.com/@threestarfancywoodworks1902
Always good to see someone who comes up with their own way to do things.
I've got to watch this many more times to get all the details correct, but from just one viewing, this a great method.
Your spacer formula is clever. To describe the half-pin spacer size, some might find “half as wide” more intuitive than “twice as small”.
But your fence-referenced sled is equally clever; totally free of limitations imposed by mitre gauge track locations. Bravo to both!
I spent all day looking for this video. Thanx, I will be giving this a try. I was waiting to see the router bit's half-moons on the inside and then wondered why you cut the tails narrower. To hide the half moons, brilliant.
Ciągle się uczę od mistrza. Ten film jest naprawdę pomocny. Miałem kupić przyrząd na jaskółczy ogon. Jeszcze raz dziękuję za pouczający i przyjemny film. Dobra robota !
Video mudo , não fala com calculas medidas as medidas.
MUY buena calidad, el texto imagenes. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO Un manuel muy completo y trabajado. Resulta muy práctico. Para principiantes y profesionales. Lo recomiendo
Nice to know some people are still using the old caliper. They are alll digitized now. Good job.
I got dovetail bits for Christmas and was trying to figure out how to do this in my head on the drive home. Thanks for this video. It really helped make sense of the spacing.
I was about to ask a question but then you answered it at 5+minutes. Thank You
I just bought a dovetail jig. It took me a week to get one right. Now I need a router table to do this one. Looks doable.
Amateur woodworker here, getting into routing. Thanks for posting this video, it was helpful!
Brilliant! You've convinced me to try half blind dovetails. I've always done through dovetails with a false front. With a narrow bit like those for WoodRat this could make stunning drawers. Thank you!!!
I’d have to watch this 20 more times to figure how he calculated getting those to match up…..but, it was beautiful to watch!
So glad it wasn't just me. Agree great video
😉😉😉
The first narrower block was twice the width of the top of his dovetail bit. The second set of cuts the small block was the same width as the top of his router bit
Yeah , not me only lol
@@joseburgueno5300 impossible to do for hobby home workers, but impressive.
Шикардос!!!
Классно и как тут заметили, без всяких соплей!
Очень все получилось КРАСИВО!!!
ЛАЙК несомненный!
Using floor laminates for straight smooth surface is genius, I have a few boxes laying in the storage, I'll be using this 100% for a workbench, thanks for the video.
What works well with laminate flooring is foam insulation board. You can quickly build strong, lightweight torsion boxes by wrapping insulation board in laminate. Put in timber, the same thickness as the insulation board, where you need something structural (joins, dog holes, etc). The insulation board adds strength, simplifies construction and stops the torsion box sounding like a drum.
I used it for a couple of workbench tops and my router table top. It works well.
My father did all this by hand, without all these measuring instruments and sophisticated equipment. 50 years have passed, and his products are still used. It is a pity that I was small when he died and did not have time to learn from him. Greetings from Kazakhstan ✊
There are plenty of videos showing how to do it by hand here on YT. If you have an interest you are never to old to learn.
Two years later, 40,000 people have viewed this, 478 have commented. I read the first 100.
Your method works, so kudos on that. It requires one router bit, and a lot of make-work shuffling two different spacers and stop blocks to get things to line up. The result is impressive.
Of course, we now have people (on TH-cam) testing joinery, glues, and methods. Dovetails look cool, but are not very strong. So, yes, your method allows creating dovetails with one well-crafted router bit.
If the goal is to have a pretty and ineffectual joinery method that takes a ton of work with two spacers and only one bit, you win the prize.
If the goal is to have a high tensile joinery method that is easier to put together but doesn't look quite so sexy... well, the mortise and tenon win that one. As woodworkers evolve dovetails will be history. Octagonal wheels worked for a few seconds, but round ones overtook them and now we'd consider square or hexagonal or octagonal wheels... stupid.
Thanks for the lesson in how to make a simple thing complex but pretend it's simple because "only one router bit." Now think to yourself how a woodworker did this with a chisel, you know, before "router tables". What did you teach him(/her)? Nothing.
Damn, why you so salty, let the man enjoy his joinery. Different joints for different applications, it's also aesthetically pleasing. What does this comment add of value to anyone? Nothing
👍 Отличное исполнение! А я всё ждал, когда будет подрезка углов стамеской. Недождался! 😊
BRAVO, I have seen a lot of ways to do dovetailing but this table saw and router table setup system is without a doubt the very BEST I have ever seen. I still prefer to do my dovetailing by hand but if I have to do a lot of them this method will be my way to go. Brilliant young man, just brilliant.
I prefer chopping dovetails as well. However, that router table….
Cette méthode est impressionnante de simplicité tout en étant extrêmement précise ! 👏👏👏👏👏👏
Merci pour ton partage très enrichissant 🙏🙏🙏
Excellent video. I've outlined the process step-by-step as I understood it below-feel free to comment/clarify if I missed any steps.
Grinwood - Dovetails on the router table
A) SPACERS (I’m not sure about this step)
1. measure top of dovetail bit
2. set up desired cut height and make test cut
3. measure bottom width of cut in the wood by router bit
4. add the two results for the width of your spacer
5. make a second spacer that is half the width of the first one
B) Cut process: PINS BOARD
1. find and mark the board's center
2. mark center lines for two other pins using spacer (one on either side of the board's center line)
3. set bit height
4. clamp stop block on fence (equal or slightly less than thickness of tails board)
5. line up first cut using line drawn on table
6. place spacer and wedge in fence guide rail, lock fence
7. make first cut in pins board
8. remove spacer and move fence over to wedge, lock fence
9. make second cut in pins board
10. remove wedge, place spacer, replace wedge, remove spacer, move and lock fence
11. make third cut in pins board
C) Cut process: TAILS BOARD
1. remove wedge, place 1/2 spacer, replace wedge, remove 1/2 spacer, move and lock fence
2. remove stop block from fence
3. stand tails board vertically, supported by backer board attached to miter gauge, right edge up against fence
4. clamp tails board to backer board
5. make first cut on tails board
6. unlock and move fence, place spacer between fence and wedge, lock fence
7. make second cut on tails board
8. remove spacer, move wedge next to fence, unlock and move fence, replace spacer, lock fence
9. make third cut on tails board
10. unclamp the tails board, move it left using spacer to determine distance from fence, re-clamp tails board
11. make final cut with router on tails board
12. remove a small amount of material from the inside face of the tails with the table saw so the tails can seat properly into the recesses on the pins board
Thank you. And I thank the creator of the video. I'm pretty handy, but I find this almost useless without narration as he works. All I get is a general idea every time I watch one of these. I going to have to call a friend who's done this before I attempt it. Also I searched for "simple for beginners" and all these videos immediately run over to a collection of tools worth more that the one or two projects that I'm planning. Some times they spend half the video making a jig without explaining. Is there a way without a table saw? Just a simple router and some templates? This is like watching a guitar instructor play "Stairway to Heaven" at full tempo and then saying "Here, just watch this once and you'll be ready to play at Madison Square Garden" LOL
I don't understand the measure on 2:30. How far ist the router away from the fence for the first cut in the second part of wood and is this the same height as before?
For A, you are correct or at least I agree with you. If you draw a picture with equal size pins and tails, you'll see the distance it takes for the pattern to repeat (wave length) is the sum of the big measurement and the small measurement.
@@datenkrake05 I don't think you want to rely on measurements. The big spacer is the distance it takes for the pattern to repeat. The second piece is cut in between the first pieces cuts, and that's why he uses the half-spacer. Note that you only use it once and then switch back to the full spacer to keep this offset throughout the second piece.
If that doesn't make sense, look up some youtube videos on the porter cable dovetail jig and you'll see how the pieces are clamped offset of each other. That's what the half-spacer does.
There was nothing super simple about that , great work I’m going to try it
Great, a nice improvement would be to make as many spacers as needed and number them, that way there would be no need to think about the order and there would be less chance of error.
Undoubtedly, definitely, a masterpiece, perfectly executed. Well done.
Thanks, that's a pretty efficient and clever method. I have just tried it today, and it worked like a charm. One needs to be accurate in the measure to build the spacers.
I'll make smart drawers thanks to you 🤗
Sebuah pengerjaan dengan penuh kehati hatian,menghasilkan karya yang bagus dan elegan ,sangat presisi,sehingga pertemuanya sangat pas dan rapi.mantap kawan tutorialnya sangat menginspirasi❤❤❤
I agree with John Heisz. The only comment I have for improvement is to use either a digital or dial caliper to show your measurements. I realize that you are located in Ukraine, but these are available at really cheap prices here in the states. In the video, I am just not able to comprehend the measurements quickly enough. With this minor exception, you have certainly simplified the process of making this joint. Good job! Now I just have to go back and replay until I can figure out the caliper measurements. 🤔
Maybe it would get easier to see in the video, but I cant stand digital calipers. It's like using a rule that needs a battery to show mesurements
@@eduardo_2805 totally agree. Digital caliper is useless. Basic caliper is simple enough, no need to overcomplicate it with display.
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Hi Dan, I agree with you, a digital caliper would be easier for the viewer to see the measurements. I had to go back and watch it again. The top cutter measurement is 22.3 mm and bottom measurement is 14.1 mm making 36.4 mm width of spacer. I managed to get the measurements off his calculator.
БЛАГОДАРЮ! Молодец всё по делу без всяких соплей!
"Lastin rep". Najbolji ali i najteži način spajanja drveta. To su samo stari majstori znali fantastično da rade priručnim alatom.
Aesthetically pleasing table saw set-up. Beautiful grey wood or faux wood? Liked all the great measuring gadgets. It paid off.
Excellent beautiful clean work and very well explained and edited. Currently I'm busy making small drawer cabinets on a sunny morning in the UK.
That was amazing. I love that spacer technique, really well done!
Freak-en deadly, buddy. Have to be "Awake" to not screw this up. Will have to try this one day. Just bought a Router on Amazon. Great job buddy.
Your brain works on another level. Cheers
ما اروع افكاركم تحية مني لكم على هذه العقول النادرة
Absolutely brilliant. Thank you for sharing this technique. I’m presently working on a project that will need dovetail joinery so watching your video couldn’t have been timed any better
Nice video. Wonderful job only using 1 dovetail cutter. I watched a video the other day where a dovetail joint was made using a Keller jig. The jig cost £178 which included 2 cutters that had to be changed halfway through the operation.
Only problem with this method is that you end up with semi circular holes on the inside of the joint, which doesn't really matter if it's a box or drawer.
I thought this too, but he showed the inside corner and no round out or gaps were visible.
@@qwazy01 Yes, but how? I didn't get that part. He cut small part of the pins what made a cover but that seemed smaller than the half diameter of the gap's curve. So it shouldn't cover it.
A good explanation would be appreciated.
@@seggremalac You can see in between shots on the half-blind part, he moved his stop block. You need to adjust the depth of the cut until the opening is the same as the thickness of the tails board. The end of that opening is a half-circle of a certain radius (half the root width of the tails). If you use the table saw to remove the same amount as the radius from the pins, then the pins won't interfere with that half circle, but the pins board's overhang will fully cover the hole.
You could also use a small chisel to square the hole. Very little material would need to be removed. Or if you don't care about the holes being visible, you can just push the centerline of the bit to match the thickness of the tails board, and a small hole will be visible.
Make a notch in the stop block or put it slightly above the table so the dust can pass under it, then you don't have to make the same cut 3 times, backing off to clear the dust.
Pure Poetry. Thank you. So simple.🙏🇦🇺
Great Job
GRINwood
Keep up with the Great Job on the Educational Video and Big Thanks for your plans
you machined the parts and they fit perfectly?! wow!!!
I’d like that router bench
Agreed. I would like to know where he got it.
Then build it !!! I’m tired of seeing people complain about the coast of his set up. I have one similar that I built out of wood with a adjusting fence
It's good to see a video done by someone that cannot speak. It proves that even the handicapped people can show us how to do things.
Once again, I learn from the master craftsman. This video is really helpful and will save me a bunch of money in holding off on buying a dovetail jig. Thank you once again my friend for an educational and enjoyable video. I always get excited when I see you in my "bell" notification. Great job!
Thank you for your comment, my friend. I am very happy that you like my content
Subhan Allah Alloh Rozi bòlsin Sizday ustalardan
Скажут:"На станке и дурак сможет так". Ну попробуйте. Тут и мозги, и опыт, и руки нужны. Классное видео.
Similar approach as Incra uses. It all comes down to being able to move the fence in a precise and repeatable manner. Nice job here !
Always wanted to make a dovetail drawer but couldn't figure out the measurements. Tried a few times but couldn't get the right adjustment. Thanks for helping me with that. Now just need to buy a good dovetail router bit.
Thanks for sharing...
You said it all: "Just perfect"
Oh... That's brilliant, dude! 😮
Thanks a lot for the tips!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Куплю на пару миллионов оборудования и начну "по простому" хвосты резать. Чувак красавчик конечно.
Watching this makes me appreciate my Incra LS so much more 😂
your worktable is....wow!!
Beautiful joint
Ésto si me gustó, lo estudiaré para practicar.
Gracias, desde Nicaragua.
Interesting method!
Nothing but just a perfect dovetail ..... those using handsaw and chisel can only admire!
Súper simple? Con herramientas ultra profesionales de seguro es simple
Incra has a complete system for making dovetail and box joints that’s similar to this. It works wonderfully!
Wow Perfect !!! That why i really like furniture, I am Vietnamese and my channel also show about wood and interior
That’s a damn good joint
Beautiful. Need to look several times to figure out your cals
Very nice and tight joint.
I'm gonna have to watch this about 10 times to figure this out. But great.
Super simple! All you need is a $3,000 dolla router table, $4,000 dolla table saw and a 50,000 shop!
you can make a router table out of a piece of melamine board for less than $30. And a good table saw can be as cheap as $300 if you buy used.
Clean and quality joint
Very good...........👍 creative
Wow! Some pretty joints there! I ordered my Incra Router Table system and I hope to be this good soon. Very nice job buddy...
well done. I will try but admit I will have to start and stop this video to make it work
Nice job and thanks for not talking too.......great to see you get straight on it. 😎👌👌👌
This is the best video on TH-cam for router dovetails
I've just mastered finger joints now to try dovetails.🤔
Perfect,Perfect Perfect.Thank you
Coulda Woulda Didn'ta put a flatboard across when hammering them down. Got very lucky no split up of a tail. Whew! Nice end result.
WOW ! NICE !!!
Boy I would butcher these dovetails so bad😂 But after watching this I am going to give it another try. Thanks for the inspiration.❤
Prosta metoda maszynowa. Gratulacje :).
Sold! And subscribed. Thank you for sharing - excellent method.
Looks so simple 🤣 practice makes perfect
Sambungan kayu yang sangat cantik 👍
great tip, to have the cutter center line drawn on the table.......
Odlični savjeti 🎉
VERY GOOD I MAKE THIS WHIT SAW FORTY YEARS AGO THANKS
Nice friend great video
Excellent super super excellent!
Eu que agradeço por essa magnífica demonstração de sabedoria! Foi uma aula muito importantes pra mim!!! 👏👏👏 😊👍
Nice. Thank you. Request please share a detail of how you do the calculations in an additional 1/2 minute of video so that we can figure out and try.
That's genius. Well executed, and well explained. Thank you.
Awesome.., brilliant work
Wow! They are perfect!
Wonderful
Felicitaciones que trabajo tan espectacular, que belleza, saludos desde Medellín Colombia
Brilliant I love it
Davvero molto bello. Complimenti vivissimi!
Awesome
It’d be cool if you would re-do this video and explain the details as to how you calculated the spacers and cuts and why you cut off the tails
PARABÉNS…, excelente didática, bem explicado ❤️
Abraço aqui do Brasil 🇧🇷
Yes! Just perfect.👍👍👍
Very nice!
Just PERFECT !!!!
👍👌👍👏👏👏👏👏