Thanks a lot for the video I just recently picked up the np10 skiver and class20 sewing machine was having issues with both machines and your videos really helped out with getting those issues fixed so thank you very much. The issues I was having was the cuts being eradicate and short on the skiver and a tension issue on the class20 so your videos do help and I thank you very much for taking the time to do those.
Thank you Al your video is very helpful so I will try to follow all the steps and to doing it myself 😢. Is so overwhelming ( I have this machine for one year and only used twice 😅.
THANK YOU for this video, i got a np4 machine but it sat for a few months so I never learned how to use it and what the knobs were for! and your tip for longer presser foot was awesome.
The reality is that nobody documented any of this stuff before the internet era. So it's up to people like us to update the intellectual archive if you will. Thanks for your friendly words.
@@albaneforleather I have been considering getting a skiver like the NP4 but I have been told that it is not very good for skiving natural Veg Tan leather, especially thicknesses greater than 6 ounces so I was told to get the NP10. I would very much like your innsight and opinion on the matter. Thanks again !
@@rustyschmidt7238 if you need to follow the hard line between either machine then your previous statement that the NP10 works better on thick vegetable tan leather then it is accurate. But, I have an NP4 and I use it on everything and it works fine for me. Now, if I was using strictly heavy vegetable tan leather the NP4 would be a more appropriate machine. If you're going to do anything different then I believe that the NP4 is a little bit more versatile because it will handle upholstery leathers better. Again this is just my opinion and you should do your appropriate research on the subject.
THANK GOD FOR AL BANE'S VIDEO.. BECAUSE THE INSTRUCTIONS ARE WORTHLESS! Thanks Al. If not for this video, you would not know how to change the pressure foot for instance..... :)
THANK YOU! such a helpful video, now the sharpening process makes total sense. Would really appreciate if you could answer a couple questions. Approximately how frequently do you find you need to redress the blade? Once a year? once a month? Once a week? Every day? And in addition, how long should the blade last before the whole thing needs to be replaced? And how do you know it's time to replace the whole blade? Thanks again so much for the great video.
Al, thanks for this video. I have a similar Chinese bell knife skiver, and it has a very faint electrical charge running through the machine both when it is operating and when it is turned off but plugged in to an outlet. The only thing that removes the current is unplugging from the AC outlet. I think it may be a grounding issue. My machine has two direct-drive servo motors, one attached to the knife, and on attached to the feed roller. Might you know of a simple way to remove this excess electrical current?
@@albaneforleather Thanks for your reply. I thought this might be my problem. I discovered the issue was much simpler. I was plugging in the machine to daisy chained power strips. The problem went away when I plugged in directly to the AC outlet, or plugged in to a surge protector that was plugged in directly to the AC outlet.
Unfortunately no but there is only one place to apply oil the rest is grease in sealed compartments that are not normally accessible by the end-user. Look on the top of the machine just above the knob that adjusts the blade distance. You will see a round disc with a u-shaped notch in it. Underneath that disc is the little hole where the oil goes. You could oil the lifting mechanism but it's not necessary.
Al, did your marker ink get removed from right to left, from the top of the bevel to the edge? It seems that on my machine, sometimes the ink gets removed from left to right, and at other times from right to left. This seems to be signaling something is not right, perhaps my periodic sharpening sessions, the touch-ups between full-blown marker-ink removal sessions, are not maintaining a consistent bevel.
That would be a function of blade position when starting the sharpening process. Move the blade as close to the presser foot as you can get it and then start sharpening
@@albaneforleather Thanks for your reply. This makes sense. Would you say that the direction the ink gets removed does not matter, or should I always strive for right-to-left removal?
I've never given it much thought. I just position the blade in the right position and move the stone in and let it sharpen. As long as the blade is in the proper position and the stone is dressed properly the system should function normally.
I usually run my machine with the knife edge 0.5mm to 0.8mm/1.0mm from the presser foot. Since I use rubber/polyurethane feed rollers, do you recommend lowering the feed roller for sharpening, allowing me to get the knife edge even closer than 0.5mm to the presser foot, or is 0.5mm close enough?
@@pequodexpress unfortunately I don't measure anything when setting up my machine I just use my voodoo science. Test the setup and if it works it works. I use simple guidelines. Blade position is close to the presser foot as I can get it without making any contact with the rest of the machine. I keep the blade as parallel to the inside of the knife as possible. I maintain the blade about one business card thickness above the feed roller. If I encounter the feed roller moving down too much while cutting I will lower it a little bit.
how do you make the machine skives so slow and smooth? when I use mine it goes way too fast (even when I try not to press the pedal too much) and cuts too much leather. thanks
It would depend on the motor a digital servo motor offers a lot of control compared to a clutch motor. Practice without any material just see if you can control the speed with your foot to your desired speed. Once you can do it consistently then you can add material. Use scrap materials so that you're not damaging your work pieces until you get the hang of it.
Al, I went to Tandy and obtained the a pamphlet on the Cobra NP-4 and it specifically indicated that it was good for trimming chrome tanned leather...does that mean that it does not work on veg tanned?
Al, does that apply to newer model, I spoke with leather machine company and they advised of issues with chrome tan a d recommended np10.....now I'm totally confused
@@jayjohnson7423 the np-10 is a heavier duty machine only by the way of a more robust feed system. The upper drive mechanism helps move the material by the blade. If you plan on doing a lot of heavy saddle skirting then the NP 10 would be the choice . But, if you're going to do a lot of upholstery materials and normal veg-tanned leather the np4 is a perfect machine.
Apart from the dual motor machines, all these skivers are Asian and the instructions are TRULY WORTHLESS. This video will get you going and the fine tuning with angles and accessories can come later. One thing I found made all the difference in controlling the leather as it passes through. STAND UP - do not sit at a stool. I don't know why or care, but I went from frustration to success in the blink of an eye. I will say it is actually easier to control the foot pedal to an even speed while standing.
Thanks a lot for the video I just recently picked up the np10 skiver and class20 sewing machine was having issues with both machines and your videos really helped out with getting those issues fixed so thank you very much. The issues I was having was the cuts being eradicate and short on the skiver and a tension issue on the class20 so your videos do help and I thank you very much for taking the time to do those.
The best video on TH-cam for setting a skiving machine. Thank you
thanks so much for this overview. mine is delivered Wednesday. this has been most informative.
Thank you Al your video is very helpful so I will try to follow all the steps and to doing it myself 😢. Is so overwhelming ( I have this machine for one year and only used twice 😅.
Excellent video. Just sharpened my blade for the first time after watching you! Thank you for sharing this information.
THANK YOU for this video, i got a np4 machine but it sat for a few months so I never learned how to use it and what the knobs were for! and your tip for longer presser foot was awesome.
i was brought my skiving machine by online order, and i dont know how to operate, and i saw your video it works well! Thank You sir, have a nice day.
Great explained thanks it help me with my business
Thank you! The NP4 is a wonderful machine but the supporting documentation that comes with it is pretty much nonexistent. Very helpful tutorial!
The reality is that nobody documented any of this stuff before the internet era. So it's up to people like us to update the intellectual archive if you will. Thanks for your friendly words.
@@albaneforleather I have been considering getting a skiver like the NP4 but I have been told that it is not very good for skiving natural Veg Tan leather, especially thicknesses greater than 6 ounces so I was told to get the NP10. I would very much like your innsight and opinion on the matter. Thanks again !
@@rustyschmidt7238 if you need to follow the hard line between either machine then your previous statement that the NP10 works better on thick vegetable tan leather then it is accurate. But, I have an NP4 and I use it on everything and it works fine for me. Now, if I was using strictly heavy vegetable tan leather the NP4 would be a more appropriate machine. If you're going to do anything different then I believe that the NP4 is a little bit more versatile because it will handle upholstery leathers better. Again this is just my opinion and you should do your appropriate research on the subject.
Thank you, Al!!!
Thanks very much !
Can't thank you enough!!! Excellent job:-)
Thank you.
THANK GOD FOR AL BANE'S VIDEO.. BECAUSE THE INSTRUCTIONS ARE WORTHLESS! Thanks Al. If not for this video, you would not know how to change the pressure foot for instance..... :)
Very nice machine and very good review. Thanks a lot!
Great video! The sharpening makes me worry about the temper.
Excellent video. Thank you. How long does a bell knife blade last?
THANK YOU! such a helpful video, now the sharpening process makes total sense. Would really appreciate if you could answer a couple questions. Approximately how frequently do you find you need to redress the blade? Once a year? once a month? Once a week? Every day? And in addition, how long should the blade last before the whole thing needs to be replaced? And how do you know it's time to replace the whole blade? Thanks again so much for the great video.
Al, thanks for this video. I have a similar Chinese bell knife skiver, and it has a very faint electrical charge running through the machine both when it is operating and when it is turned off but plugged in to an outlet. The only thing that removes the current is unplugging from the AC outlet. I think it may be a grounding issue. My machine has two direct-drive servo motors, one attached to the knife, and on attached to the feed roller. Might you know of a simple way to remove this excess electrical current?
Make sure the system is properly grounded
@@albaneforleather Thanks for your reply. I thought this might be my problem. I discovered the issue was much simpler. I was plugging in the machine to daisy chained power strips. The problem went away when I plugged in directly to the AC outlet, or plugged in to a surge protector that was plugged in directly to the AC outlet.
Thanks Al. This is my next purchase.... :)
Is there a video on how to oil this bell skiver?
Unfortunately no but there is only one place to apply oil the rest is grease in sealed compartments that are not normally accessible by the end-user. Look on the top of the machine just above the knob that adjusts the blade distance. You will see a round disc with a u-shaped notch in it. Underneath that disc is the little hole where the oil goes. You could oil the lifting mechanism but it's not necessary.
Good!
Thank you
Al, did your marker ink get removed from right to left, from the top of the bevel to the edge? It seems that on my machine, sometimes the ink gets removed from left to right, and at other times from right to left. This seems to be signaling something is not right, perhaps my periodic sharpening sessions, the touch-ups between full-blown marker-ink removal sessions, are not maintaining a consistent bevel.
That would be a function of blade position when starting the sharpening process. Move the blade as close to the presser foot as you can get it and then start sharpening
@@albaneforleather Thanks for your reply. This makes sense. Would you say that the direction the ink gets removed does not matter, or should I always strive for right-to-left removal?
I've never given it much thought. I just position the blade in the right position and move the stone in and let it sharpen. As long as the blade is in the proper position and the stone is dressed properly the system should function normally.
I usually run my machine with the knife edge 0.5mm to 0.8mm/1.0mm from the presser foot. Since I use rubber/polyurethane feed rollers, do you recommend lowering the feed roller for sharpening, allowing me to get the knife edge even closer than 0.5mm to the presser foot, or is 0.5mm close enough?
@@pequodexpress unfortunately I don't measure anything when setting up my machine I just use my voodoo science. Test the setup and if it works it works.
I use simple guidelines.
Blade position is close to the presser foot as I can get it without making any contact with the rest of the machine.
I keep the blade as parallel to the inside of the knife as possible.
I maintain the blade about one business card thickness above the feed roller.
If I encounter the feed roller moving down too much while cutting I will lower it a little bit.
how do you make the machine skives so slow and smooth? when I use mine it goes way too fast (even when I try not to press the pedal too much) and cuts too much leather. thanks
It would depend on the motor a digital servo motor offers a lot of control compared to a clutch motor. Practice without any material just see if you can control the speed with your foot to your desired speed. Once you can do it consistently then you can add material. Use scrap materials so that you're not damaging your work pieces until you get the hang of it.
@@albaneforleather Thanks a lot!! so your machine has a digital servo motor? can you install it on a clutch motor machine? cheers!
@@armilleiriccardo that's what I'd like to know. If you can change out the clutch motor to a servo motor, could you show how I can do that?
Do you have any suggestions for troubleshooting if the Emory stone isn’t turning suddenly?
Did you ever get your Emory stone to begin turning. Mine also seems not turn. Although, the green belt is turning.
Al, I went to Tandy and obtained the a pamphlet on the Cobra NP-4 and it specifically indicated that it was good for trimming chrome tanned leather...does that mean that it does not work on veg tanned?
It works on veg tan just fine.
Al, does that apply to newer model, I spoke with leather machine company and they advised of issues with chrome tan a d recommended np10.....now I'm totally confused
@@jayjohnson7423 the np-10 is a heavier duty machine only by the way of a more robust feed system.
The upper drive mechanism helps move the material by the blade.
If you plan on doing a lot of heavy saddle skirting then the NP 10 would be the choice . But, if you're going to do a lot of upholstery materials and normal veg-tanned leather the np4 is a perfect machine.
@@albaneforleather awesome! I'm only making handbags , wallets, etc!
Apart from the dual motor machines, all these skivers are Asian and the instructions are TRULY WORTHLESS. This video will get you going and the fine tuning with angles and accessories can come later. One thing I found made all the difference in controlling the leather as it passes through. STAND UP - do not sit at a stool. I don't know why or care, but I went from frustration to success in the blink of an eye. I will say it is actually easier to control the foot pedal to an even speed while standing.
I wants shank board skiving mch kdly give some details and prices of machine
Krishan Dhamija Leather Machine Co Inc
Ontario, CA
(909) 930-5259
g.co/kgs/pdMwrG
Krishan Dhamija you'll have to contact them
@@albaneforleather s
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