I ran into a problem where a replacement computer couldn’t be sourced. So I knew that I couldn’t hurt matters any further by cracking open the ECM. Near the powers and ground connection plug inside the ECM were 2 (5) watt general purpose damper diodes. Their job is to dampen any voltage surges and keep the power coming in rectified in the proper direction. ( positive on positive and negative on negative) I purchased a bulk pack of 6 diodes for $3.00 and replaced the two that I had found to be open circuit. The computer came online and I was able to pull vin and stored codes. In you are ever in this situation…. You have nothing to lose by trying this. I get a lot of good information from your channel and I hope that should you ever need it, what I told you serves to help. Thank you and God bless.
Nice work on the Chrysler of Japan! Love doing the starters on these too! And the Radio's, the Clock Springs, the steering wheel buttons...IPDM's...Compressors...
I did the timing chain on my parent's 4.0L Pathfinder. Found the same mouse nest under the intake and also had a bad knock sensor and yes the abs disabled the 4 wheel drive. I had that too. They're a pain.
Not a huge Nissan fan but the Titans are great trucks. Loads of power, good fuel economy for such a big truck, and a reliable engine and transmission. It's got its flaws but none of them are show stoppers, imo. Maybe ECU issues could be though, down the road, which is good to know.
Ivan, this video came at a good time. we just bought a d22 Frontier (1999 model) 4wd v6 and manual. It was cheap and from a tow yard, so we expected issues and it did have the service engine light on for oxygen sensor and crankshaft position sensor. Nissan in their infinite wisdom made the sensor to be mounted to the rear part of the trans bell housing which made it a little annoying to access. Soon we discovered someone had already been there to throw a crankshaft sensor at it, of course. We also discovered that someone had attempted a hack job wiring repair and wired the sensor backwards... Then they twisted the shield wire into the sensor ground wire, sending all the data from the sensor into the chassis... Some people should not be working on cars!
I love your videos.......because of your patient and logical thinking. You are such a 'cool under pressure' person. This industry is becoming SOOOO incompetent it is scary!! Thank you for talents and skills.
@4:20 I had that same issue, crank no start.. figured it had a P0615 code, no power from the TCM to the IPDM start relay circuit coil control (power switched), added a jumper wire from the 30 terminal to pin 21 from the TCM connector at the fuse box.. problem solved.
This video should have been called the "Nissan variables" video... Wow, so many things at play here... Good job on taking your time to figure it all out. Talk about frustration and needing to remain cool headed. Good job Ivan. Thanks for another great couple of videos. Always great to tag along and see it all.
Most Auto electric repair wire lines standardize on SAE-J1128 TXL (Automotive Cross-Link Wire Extra Thin Wall) for general automotive wiring needs, and for this repair you would use 18 AWG 19/30 stranding bare copper. Actually the most common wire stocked for 18 AWG color with stripe follow Ford Motor Company common color combinations. Ford also has a large variety of large power wire colors; Red, Pink, Yellow, and Orange. If you are tasked with making custom wiring harnesses Ford color combinations make a lot of sense, with some notable exceptions like HEGO colors. To fill out the wire line you will have about 20 18 AWG, 10 16 AWG, 6 14 AWG, 6 12 AWG 4 10 AWG. Mechanically for test vehicles 20 AWG is considered too thin although you will see 20 AWG in production harnesses. Then you will have your large cables (8, 6, 4, 2, 1, 1/0 and 2/0 AWG) for starting, charging, and power distribution. The best large cable wire is Marine high temperature, high stranding, tin plated copper wiring. A very popular cable for in trunk battery installations for automotive test vehicles is 1 AWG (sometime 1/0) Welding cable high stranding bare copper. For battery in trunk test vehicles we never rely on chassis to return currents so you will see a large red and black battery cables in the same harness going to the trunk. In the Trunk the battery positive cable is protected by a high current bolt down fuse. You can emulate the OEM style wheel speed sensor factory harness in a repair by using TXL wire, high temp wire loom (white stripe) wrapped in TESA high temp abrasion tape.
I found in the past that knock sensor codes in Nissans are a bit strange. If like anything sets off that engine light, a knock sensor code comes with it. Strange it didn't seem to show up in generic OBD2.
My 1st gen 2007 went to almost 300K before it was totaled. Radiator, Axle Seals (2), front hubs (2), and a rear pinion seal. Nothing really out of the ordinary for any truck. Original starter, exhaust, alternator . . . . . Mine was the best truck I ever owned. So I replaced it with another one.
I’m not understanding what the problem or fix was with the engine computer wiring at around 12:40. Was it a loose pin or what? Ivan just cuts clip says ipdm is in its home tests drives it and it’s suddenly working.
You can tell it's on the knock table under moderate throttle, I wish there was an after ignition timing comparison to compare to as I'd imagine it should be in the 20s, but hey it's fixed
Thanks Ivan. I'm always disappointed to see such relatively new vehicles with wiring hacked up/shade tree'd. I hope your fees are adjusted upward for such bad judgment on "someone's" part.
Probably because the customer wouldn't authorize enough labor. I mean customer chose flagship 1 right? They're probably not gonna like any answer the dealership gave them. How many problems were created in this truck by yet another diy customer.
That's kind of odd that the ECM registered a knock sensor issue, but it didn't indicate history, pending or present. I think that's important, need-to-know information.
Yes, it does matter if either knock sensor works or it doesn't because the PCM will retard the ignition timing, etc if no signal is detected from the knock sensor when the PCM expects to receive one. I can remember in 2019 I was travelling on a freeway at 110 km/h (65 miles per hour) I got a P0327 code for the front knock sensor & check engine symbol in my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 powered Holden VY SS Commodore & once I replaced both the knock sensor wiring harness & the front knock sensor the engine had tons more power without an increase in fuel consumption. I had only just replaced one of those phony knock sensors due to a P0332 code for the rear knock sensor. So the PCM needs an input signal from the knock sensor , also the centre brake light is needed over here in New South Wales, Australia to pass the annual registration inspection & it has to work !
Had an 08 Titan and hated it. Never left me stranded, but the ride was horrible and matched it’s turning radius. Pulled an empty single axle trailer with it once, overheating the trans.
Great job, Ivan! Apart from the ECM, the faults so far, were all poor connections, busted lamps and wiring problems. Let's see about the knock sensor - Part 3 should be interesting :-)
"The proof is in the pudding" is a saying in its own right. And the pudding in the original isn't even pudding as we know it today - it was a kind of sausage that you definitely needed to test.
Nissans always get knock sensor codes but it dont turn on the engine ligjt. It dont cause any drivability problems or cause it so fail smog so ve ignore it since it is under r the intake manifold on the v6's. Unless the manifold is already coming off.
Man i hope you found what the issue was when moving stuff. If put it back n it just started to work again and did nothing else with it then it will definitely mess up again on the first large bump or when there's lots of moisture in the air.
I been dealing with a similar issue as a tech on side friend work. I don't feel comfortable calling ECM, but this was another sign I'm probably right calling ECM, can't get to finish my diag on it. Shop they been at sold them 5 Throttle Body's, connectors, sensors, then told them SOL take it some place else. They described the MAF stall recrank start turning to stall crank to start. Let it cool down, crank start, to Start Limppy, now 99% limp mode random normal operation till restart or stall. I tried original TB, did PID happy checks, relearns, gave me comm issues, 07 Xterra 4X4 Off-road 220k+ miles...
I wonder what's dying in those Nissin ECMs? For some cars, it's the caps leaking and corroding the board. Some are fixable. (as long as they are not multi-layer boards).
I have an 08 Titan, when I changed my starter I found the wires to both knock sensors chewed and disconnected. No cel, repaired the wires and the truck runs exactly the same. Which is it runs well.
Yup, that's bloody well annoying. You've just fixed something by replacing an expensive spare part - and after reassembling the thing something else pops up. Don't I know it.
She's got some serious corrosion under the hood. Seems that she's been to a Rudy type mechanic in the past as well. Some TLC logic will help extend its life maybe. Love the diag approach Ivan. Sure makes its hard to do when all sorts of things are going on at the same time.
I betting now at 12.57 the ipm issue is a pin fit issue from front probing stuff Well i was wrong Out here in west desert it seems like i habe a lot of trouble with that Nissan abs connector always a fight that connector is on a lot of cars
...okay, ...alright, blinky lights..., 3 keys to program, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, turn that off, done! 3 keys programmed. Try this at your local dealer, or (car) locksmith
Is there anyone rebuilding the ecu, like with a duramax diesel or similar diesel pick-ups? I was about to say with the turn signal. That it could have been the male side pin. I had a pin to the ecu on my 04 gmc lb7 duramax. That was for the app 1 wire. It was a bad connection with the wire and pin to connect with the ecu.
Ivan- When you declared victory at 2:55 into a 30 minute vid, I knew something bad was about to go down. 😂😂
I would have lost my shit when that fuse box kept screwing up when ivan put it back together. He has the patience of a saint.
I ran into a problem where a replacement computer couldn’t be sourced. So I knew that I couldn’t hurt matters any further by cracking open the ECM. Near the powers and ground connection plug inside the ECM were 2 (5) watt general purpose damper diodes. Their job is to dampen any voltage surges and keep the power coming in rectified in the proper direction. ( positive on positive and negative on negative) I purchased a bulk pack of 6 diodes for $3.00 and replaced the two that I had found to be open circuit. The computer came online and I was able to pull vin and stored codes. In you are ever in this situation…. You have nothing to lose by trying this. I get a lot of good information from your channel and I hope that should you ever need it, what I told you serves to help. Thank you and God bless.
Mark,
Those are Spike Suppression Diodes used to protect the Drivers on certain protected circuits. Good job!
The customer had it nailed. Flagship 1 dropped the ball twice. Well it's sorted out. Can't trust these companies anymore.
Worse company to get computers is more trustable the junkyard than FLAG SHIP 1
Every time I've heard FS1 mentioned on any YT mechanic video it ends in tears. Garbage merchants.
Nice work on the Chrysler of Japan! Love doing the starters on these too! And the Radio's, the Clock Springs, the steering wheel buttons...IPDM's...Compressors...
Ivan continues to amaze me with his patience and his his trouble shooting talent! Great job as usual!😀👍
Happy to see that the owner cares enough to have Ivan continue his repairs
Eric O. and you with someone else’s wiring kerfuffle in the same day. Nice
Great job of fixing that vehicle up there Ivan you are the man
It's fun to see how you work, you're a professional, thank you for sharing the diagnosis with us
Great Repair on all the problems Ivan. Looking forward to Part Three.
I did the timing chain on my parent's 4.0L Pathfinder. Found the same mouse nest under the intake and also had a bad knock sensor and yes the abs disabled the 4 wheel drive. I had that too. They're a pain.
I wonder if custom ECU's and looms will be the future to keep cars and trucks on the road.
I was thinking about that too
@@davidrmcmahon I think more ECU repair businesses will pop up 👍
Thank you my guy great video.
Not a huge Nissan fan but the Titans are great trucks. Loads of power, good fuel economy for such a big truck, and a reliable engine and transmission. It's got its flaws but none of them are show stoppers, imo. Maybe ECU issues could be though, down the road, which is good to know.
This is what dedication looks like.......
Ivan, this video came at a good time. we just bought a d22 Frontier (1999 model) 4wd v6 and manual. It was cheap and from a tow yard, so we expected issues and it did have the service engine light on for oxygen sensor and crankshaft position sensor. Nissan in their infinite wisdom made the sensor to be mounted to the rear part of the trans bell housing which made it a little annoying to access. Soon we discovered someone had already been there to throw a crankshaft sensor at it, of course. We also discovered that someone had attempted a hack job wiring repair and wired the sensor backwards... Then they twisted the shield wire into the sensor ground wire, sending all the data from the sensor into the chassis... Some people should not be working on cars!
My condolences on purchasing that truck lol. A warning about aftermarket crank sensors in any nissan . Don't bother trying.
@@jeffcompton6937 we went for a Hitachi OEM...but it was from Amazon so who knows if it's genuine 😁
Great Diagnosis all around on this vehicle Ivan!! 😊
I love your videos.......because of your patient and logical thinking. You are such a 'cool under pressure' person. This industry is becoming SOOOO incompetent it is scary!! Thank you for talents and skills.
That lil pup was like a bull dog clinging on to your britches leg. It wasn't going to let go ! Nice work Ivan
@4:20 I had that same issue, crank no start.. figured it had a P0615 code, no power from the TCM to the IPDM start relay circuit coil control (power switched), added a jumper wire from the 30 terminal to pin 21 from the TCM connector at the fuse box.. problem solved.
It wouldn't be a Nissan without a bad knock sensor!
😂 so true. My Frontier has had the knock sensor code for 7 years along with the IAC code. Never had any issues with driveability.
This video should have been called the "Nissan variables" video... Wow, so many things at play here... Good job on taking your time to figure it all out. Talk about frustration and needing to remain cool headed. Good job Ivan. Thanks for another great couple of videos. Always great to tag along and see it all.
Super job finding and fixing all the wiring issues with this high mileage ruck.
Fantastic job Ivan. But me personally that model is so prone to electrical kremlins I would not trust it going into the future.
You did it again Ivan you the man
Most Auto electric repair wire lines standardize on SAE-J1128 TXL (Automotive Cross-Link Wire Extra Thin Wall) for general automotive wiring needs, and for this repair you would use 18 AWG 19/30 stranding bare copper. Actually the most common wire stocked for 18 AWG color with stripe follow Ford Motor Company common color combinations. Ford also has a large variety of large power wire colors; Red, Pink, Yellow, and Orange. If you are tasked with making custom wiring harnesses Ford color combinations make a lot of sense, with some notable exceptions like HEGO colors.
To fill out the wire line you will have about 20 18 AWG, 10 16 AWG, 6 14 AWG, 6 12 AWG 4 10 AWG. Mechanically for test vehicles 20 AWG is considered too thin although you will see 20 AWG in production harnesses. Then you will have your large cables (8, 6, 4, 2, 1, 1/0 and 2/0 AWG) for starting, charging, and power distribution. The best large cable wire is Marine high temperature, high stranding, tin plated copper wiring. A very popular cable for in trunk battery installations for automotive test vehicles is 1 AWG (sometime 1/0) Welding cable high stranding bare copper. For battery in trunk test vehicles we never rely on chassis to return currents so you will see a large red and black battery cables in the same harness going to the trunk. In the Trunk the battery positive cable is protected by a high current bolt down fuse.
You can emulate the OEM style wheel speed sensor factory harness in a repair by using TXL wire, high temp wire loom (white stripe) wrapped in TESA high temp abrasion tape.
depressing pats not available..or bad remans.. what we all have to look foreward too
As the good vehicles age, it's going to be harder and harder to keep them on the road.
This truck will be one gremlin after another. Maybe the owner can put Ivan on retainer.
I found in the past that knock sensor codes in Nissans are a bit strange. If like anything sets off that engine light, a knock sensor code comes with it.
Strange it didn't seem to show up in generic OBD2.
Thinktool 10 for the win
Awesome battle
🎓🇺🇲🅰️♦️💰💪😁👍
7:22 nervous laughter ensues 😂 This gonna be good 💯
As the owner of a 2013 Titan...this video does not put me at ease 😢 i wish i lived closer to Ivan!
Get known good ECU or 2 just in case.
Sell it while it’s still running
My 1st gen 2007 went to almost 300K before it was totaled. Radiator, Axle Seals (2), front hubs (2), and a rear pinion seal. Nothing really out of the ordinary for any truck. Original starter, exhaust, alternator . . . . . Mine was the best truck I ever owned. So I replaced it with another one.
Nice video Ivan.
I’m not understanding what the problem or fix was with the engine computer wiring at around 12:40. Was it a loose pin or what? Ivan just cuts clip says ipdm is in its home tests drives it and it’s suddenly working.
You can tell it's on the knock table under moderate throttle, I wish there was an after ignition timing comparison to compare to as I'd imagine it should be in the 20s, but hey it's fixed
Great diag, Ivan.. let's see how the part 3 rocks!
Great fix great analysis 😁
I hope the customer can get a refund from Flagship 1 for their junk ECU.
What was the IPDM issue, did I miss remedy of the random relay clicking?
I missed that too.
Nice job Ivan another win for Ivan and pine hoillow(VICTORYYEAH!!!!!
Very enjoyable video, lots of different problems to figure out, I hope you save part 3 for Sunday coffee
Great case study as always!!!!!😂🎉🎉
This was a good one thanks for sharing I'm always learning something.
Fix it and sell it as fast as you can
It's a 200k Nissan isn't worth anything guy just wants to be able to use it
Great enthusiasm to keep going
Better move to Saskatchewan Canada. Not much rain here 😅. Winter sucks but a good wife unit will keep you warm at night 😅
Thanks Ivan. I'm always disappointed to see such relatively new vehicles with wiring hacked up/shade tree'd. I hope your fees are adjusted upward for such bad judgment on "someone's" part.
How come the dealership couldn't diagnose the bad ecu? That's crazy
Probably because the customer wouldn't authorize enough labor. I mean customer chose flagship 1 right? They're probably not gonna like any answer the dealership gave them. How many problems were created in this truck by yet another diy customer.
Helloween special, yeahhhhh!!!!
Greatings from Oz from your German brother.
молодец брат!
That's kind of odd that the ECM registered a knock sensor issue, but it didn't indicate history, pending or present. I think that's important, need-to-know information.
Maic Salazar Diagnostics for ECM repairs. He just did a video for a 09 Nissan Titian 5.6L ECM
Yes, it does matter if either knock sensor works or it doesn't because the
PCM will retard the ignition timing, etc if no signal is detected from the knock sensor when the PCM expects to receive one.
I can remember in 2019 I was travelling on a freeway at 110 km/h (65 miles per hour) I got a P0327 code for the front knock sensor & check engine symbol in my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 powered Holden VY SS Commodore & once I replaced both the knock sensor wiring harness & the front knock sensor the engine had tons more power without an increase in fuel consumption.
I had only just replaced one of those phony knock sensors due to a P0332 code for the rear knock sensor.
So the PCM needs an input signal from the knock sensor , also the centre brake light is needed over here in New South Wales, Australia to pass the annual registration inspection & it has to work !
Had an 08 Titan and hated it. Never left me stranded, but the ride was horrible and matched it’s turning radius. Pulled an empty single axle trailer with it once, overheating the trans.
Nissan is the Dodge of Asin vehicles.
better hope the TCM doesn't fail!
There’s a reason they’re called the Chrysler of Japan
Great job, Ivan! Apart from the ECM, the faults so far, were all poor connections, busted lamps and wiring problems. Let's see about the knock sensor - Part 3 should be interesting :-)
High probability of broken bolts on the intake manifold after looking at those rusty fasteners.
@@v12alpine Yep, looks like a rusty mess to dig into 🙂
Well done that man cheers
Another awesome job Ivan
O2 Sensor replacement is very important. Affects mpg.
Nice job Ivan
Absolutely brilliant Ivan, by the way the 'saying' is: 'The proof of the pudding is in the eating' ...jusayin 😉👍🎩
"The proof is in the pudding" is a saying in its own right.
And the pudding in the original isn't even pudding as we know it today - it was a kind of sausage that you definitely needed to test.
Robert is your mother’s brother
Nissans always get knock sensor codes but it dont turn on the engine ligjt.
It dont cause any drivability problems or cause it so fail smog so ve ignore it since it is under r the intake manifold on the v6's. Unless the manifold is already coming off.
Man i hope you found what the issue was when moving stuff. If put it back n it just started to work again and did nothing else with it then it will definitely mess up again on the first large bump or when there's lots of moisture in the air.
I been dealing with a similar issue as a tech on side friend work. I don't feel comfortable calling ECM, but this was another sign I'm probably right calling ECM, can't get to finish my diag on it. Shop they been at sold them 5 Throttle Body's, connectors, sensors, then told them SOL take it some place else. They described the MAF stall recrank start turning to stall crank to start. Let it cool down, crank start, to Start Limppy, now 99% limp mode random normal operation till restart or stall. I tried original TB, did PID happy checks, relearns, gave me comm issues, 07 Xterra 4X4 Off-road 220k+ miles...
Thanks Ivan!
Thanks for the video Ivan.
Makes you wonder about Flagship. They are supposed to be rebuilding ECMs but it seems they are turning out garbage.
They are hacks as well. I believe south main auto has shown problems with their “refurbished” engine computers.
Ivan that splice look like when I got this after market sensor and wanted to make it work ,so I cut in the old connector😂
Nice work!
Beached Whale is the right description about those trucks and full size SUV's they don't age well at all
Awesome, Ivan!
I wonder what's dying in those Nissin ECMs? For some cars, it's the caps leaking and corroding the board. Some are fixable. (as long as they are not multi-layer boards).
👍 slowly slowly Ivan.
I have an 08 Titan, when I changed my starter I found the wires to both knock sensors chewed and disconnected. No cel, repaired the wires and the truck runs exactly the same. Which is it runs well.
Should keep the old computers, they might be worth repairing one day
My first car was a little Nissan truck. That thing was bullet proof. Man they went down hill from there.
Always brilliant and informative videos 👍🏻👍🏻🇬🇧
Yup, that's bloody well annoying. You've just fixed something by replacing an expensive spare part - and after reassembling the thing something else pops up. Don't I know it.
She's got some serious corrosion under the hood. Seems that she's been to a Rudy type mechanic in the past as well. Some TLC logic will help extend its life maybe.
Love the diag approach Ivan. Sure makes its hard to do when all sorts of things are going on at the same time.
I think I'd fix the o2 as well, so it can run a full drive cycle....
Good job 👍
In part 1 the TCM wasn't coming online on your scanner but you didn't seem too worried about it and it became a non-issue? Related to PCM or IPDM?
What about the left hand reverse light Ivan?
Put a good old days change points out put some new spark plugs in it crack it and drive it
It’s gonna run
I keep getting Nissan ads during this video
You didn’t show how you fixed the open connector issue. Was it spread pins?
I betting now at 12.57 the ipm issue is a pin fit issue from front probing stuff
Well i was wrong
Out here in west desert it seems like i habe a lot of trouble with that Nissan abs connector always a fight that connector is on a lot of cars
At least you can get it indoors
Like half way in 😂
Man I actually recommended flagship 1 before. Not anymore
Nissans do not throw the SES light on dash for the knock sensor. 👍
...okay, ...alright, blinky lights..., 3 keys to program, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, turn that off, done! 3 keys programmed. Try this at your local dealer, or (car) locksmith
Nissan Titan: the Nissan Altima of trucks
How about learn how to fix this ECM's and TCM's?
Getting parts for Nissan's is getting hard
Is there anyone rebuilding the ecu, like with a duramax diesel or similar diesel pick-ups?
I was about to say with the turn signal. That it could have been the male side pin.
I had a pin to the ecu on my 04 gmc lb7 duramax. That was for the app 1 wire.
It was a bad connection with the wire and pin to connect with the ecu.
So what was the ultimate fix for the IDPM? Or just put it in its home, get everything happy and leave it alone?
Can those ECMs be opened up to look for bad electrolytic caps/leak/corrosion/PCB damage?
Come on Ivan a blank module doesn’t have to go to the dealer to get programmed lol.
@@autodiagyt ha I'll just call you in for that, Jake! 😉
Hi Ivan, why don't you send the computer to Northridge Alex, so he can try to find out what is wrong with it?
You mentioned that the computers are hard to find. Why don't you send them to be rebuilt?
Because sending them in you get mixed results when they come back
@@mikesabin8568 that is not true.
@@JohnSmith-ug5ci yes it is.
@@mikesabin8568 no