I wish you would have had the camera shoot a view from inside the dryer to see the idler pulley and the way the belt wound around it. I also needed to replace my drums and you don't do that. But your video is the first one I found that was a video for my specific dryer. Can't believe how many dryers are out there!!! Looked through about 15 before I found you. Thanks.
My Maytag Atlantis was squealing and I suspected it to be the drum rollers. I used your video to take apart my dryer and replace the rollers. It took me less than an hour thanks to your video. Thanks for sharing, it saved me a lot of money.
notmycupotea from what I was reading online, it was most likely a drum roller making the noise. So I bought both of them on amazon and just replaced both. I got lucky that it wasn’t the idler pully. If it had been no big deal it would have just had order it and take it apart again. Mine had similar symptoms as yours and mine also squealed more when it had a lighter load in it.
@@notmycupotea You really don't until you get in there and replace parts. If you're concerned, you can probably buy both rollers and the idler pulley for less than $20 and just replace all three. I believe they actually sell kits that include the two rollers, idler pulley, as well as a new belt.
It's amazing the level of noise the idler pulley wheel can make. I took our dryer apart once and determined it was this that was making so much noise. I would have purchased a new one but a mountain of clothes waiting to be washed and dried convinced me to smooth out the existing one with steel wool and then lubricate it. It worked great for a couple of months.....now I'll replace it.
The pulley wheel was installed in the wrong direction in this video. The raised lip on the pulley wheel should have been towards the back of the dryer, which prevents the belt from ever coming off.
@@beegood1215 Compare 5:37 and 6:26. At 5:37, we see the correct, original position while the original parts are still attached to the dryer. The wheel's lip-side is closest to the back of the dryer and the no-lip side is closest to the metal bracket. At 6:26 you can see the lip-side facing the front of the dryer, exactly opposite what we see at 5:37. The problem is, at 5:53, with everything in his hand, the lip-side is closest to the metal bracket while he's disassembling it. My guess is, he needed to re-record this portion of the video because he already had it taken apart and realized he hadn't recorded any of it. So, he put it back together, incorrectly, then proceeds to record himself taking it apart and finally re-assembling the new part, again incorrectly with the lip closest to the bracket. Good eye @Rick Nelson.
You probably dont give a damn but does someone know of a method to get back into an instagram account? I stupidly lost my login password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Fabian Tucker i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I've watched so many of these videos that I feel like I know this guy. I have not read this thread entirely so perhaps this comment has already been addressed: Contrary to what is taught in this video, the grooves on MY Maytag dryer belt face AWAY from the drum surface...this is because of Model LDE312's belt threading diagram. If I start the belt reinstallation process by placing the groove-side of the belt against the drum surface, by the time the belt is wrapped around the motor shaft the grooves do not make contact with the shaft! The shaft has grooves, which makes it clear that the shaft was designed for the belt to "fit" into its grooves. Common sense told me that the grooves SHOULD face the drum because of improved friction...so I was surprised when I discovered the "fabric" side facing the drum when I opened up my dryer. I thought the previous technician made a mistake. But now I understand that the grooves must fit into the motor shaft and the only way this will happen (if you follow the threading diagram) is to have the grooves face AWAY from the drum. Am I missing something? I KNOW that I am threading the belt correctly...
Its seems to easy but also looks you have the experience and practice and that's something that we don't have but it was good to learn something good. ... thank you
Thank you ..exactly what I needed and thank you for fast forwarding where necessary.Just wondering why there isn't an access panel on the back to bypass 90% of the procedure.
you put the idler on backwards from the way you took it off... the shoulder of the idler pulley should be to the outside to keep the belt from sliding off. ??
My spring came off and I see it’s same spring as ur video. I can’t figure out where it goes. It came out before I got the drum out and now I don’t know where to hook it back to
Thank you so much for the informative video! Quick question.....when I went to take the wheel off, the washer crumbled. I believe due to the age of the dryer. Can you suggest an alternate washer or is it a must to use that type of washer? Thanks again!
The video does NOT show how the belt goes around the idler wheel. Don't you think that's important?: It also doesn't show how he got the idler pulley off the area where it's attached. I think the instructor ought to try to think like someone who has never seen the inside of the dryer. I found the other instructions were helpful but I had to search the internet for a video that shows the proper placement of the belt around the motor and around idler pulley wheel. I also appreciate the comment below (Rick Nelson) stating that the idler wheel is installed incorrectly in this video, (with reference to the lip of the wheel facing towards the back,) I can't imagine why the instructor would do that.
@@tinatinker1103 Dear Tina, Are you still looking? If so, I'll dig it up. Unlike Richard (below) I opened the dryer four other times to replace "other parts" until I finally arrived at this one on trial number five.
Is there really a bearing on this thing or is that center fixed to the plastic? Same question for the guide roller wheels. They all seem fixed to me without any bearings at all. I just re-lubricated the posts and reassembled and the squeak is gone - for now.
DO NOT assemble the wheel to the bracket like he does starting at 5:53. It's BACKWARD!! @Rick Nelson keenly pointed out, at 5:37 the lip of the wheel is farthest away from the metal bracket, but the rest of the video (from 5:53 onward) it's shown closest to the metal bracket. My guess is the guy probably already had it taken apart and realized he didn't record it. So, off camera, he assembled it incorrectly and starts recording at 5:53 with the lip closest to the bracket...and then re-assembles it that way, which is wrong. If that ridge is nearest the bracket, the drum rotation strap will probably fall off the pulley and you'll waste more time with this repair. It's frustrating that they have 59K subscribers and CLEARLY don't care about what they post. I know this because it has been up for 7 years and 2 years after it was posted, users started pointing out this problem. Report it! Time is too valuable. If it wasn't they'd use their time to FIX IT.
My pulley was the problem as it was very hard to turn. After oiling, it rotates just fine. Is that a satisfactory repair or must the wheel be replaced?
You can get away with cleaning the gunk that's collected inside the idler pulley bushing and on the shaft it spins on if the idler pulley hasn't been damaged by the belt running over it having worn a path or even a hole into it due to the idler pulley having been unable to rotate. It's best to simply polish the shaft by using a shop cloth and then using the shop cloth to clean inside the bushing of the idler pulley itself. If after this the idler pulley spins freely you're good to go. Lubricants can be problematic because lint will adhere to the lubricant literally gumming up the works. I don't use lubricants.
The OEM Part # for this part is WP6-3700340. You can find it here: www.fix.com/parts/dryer/maytag/fix11743032/idler-pulley-wheel-and-bearing-wp6-3700340/
when he was removing the white pulley wheel, the shelf on the wheel was opposite the metal bracket. When he put it back on, he reversed it. Bad instructions
A screwdriver is a swimming pool tool. You know that bottle of chlorine with the pH already in it? You use the screwdriver to puncture the induction seal under the lid of the bottle so that it pours out easier.
I wish you would have had the camera shoot a view from inside the dryer to see the idler pulley and the way the belt wound around it. I also needed to replace my drums and you don't do that. But your video is the first one I found that was a video for my specific dryer. Can't believe how many dryers are out there!!! Looked through about 15 before I found you. Thanks.
My Maytag Atlantis was squealing and I suspected it to be the drum rollers. I used your video to take apart my dryer and replace the rollers. It took me less than an hour thanks to your video. Thanks for sharing, it saved me a lot of money.
min is squealing loudly then gets quieter as the dryer runs, but how do you know which pulley or the idler is going bad?
notmycupotea from what I was reading online, it was most likely a drum roller making the noise. So I bought both of them on amazon and just replaced both. I got lucky that it wasn’t the idler pully. If it had been no big deal it would have just had order it and take it apart again. Mine had similar symptoms as yours and mine also squealed more when it had a lighter load in it.
@@notmycupotea You really don't until you get in there and replace parts. If you're concerned, you can probably buy both rollers and the idler pulley for less than $20 and just replace all three. I believe they actually sell kits that include the two rollers, idler pulley, as well as a new belt.
@@jhooton75 it turned into a rumble and now the noise has gone away altogether...guess Ill wait till it comes back?
It's amazing the level of noise the idler pulley wheel can make. I took our dryer apart once and determined it was this that was making so much noise. I would have purchased a new one but a mountain of clothes waiting to be washed and dried convinced me to smooth out the existing one with steel wool and then lubricate it. It worked great for a couple of months.....now I'll replace it.
The pulley wheel was installed in the wrong direction in this video. The raised lip on the pulley wheel should have been towards the back of the dryer, which prevents the belt from ever coming off.
Yup. You can even see the original part had the lip towards the back.
Keen eye for detail... you can see how it is supposed to look @5:45 (with the lip on the idler pulley towards the back of the dryer)
I looked at it over and over... Seems to me he did it correctly.
@@beegood1215 Compare 5:37 and 6:26. At 5:37, we see the correct, original position while the original parts are still attached to the dryer. The wheel's lip-side is closest to the back of the dryer and the no-lip side is closest to the metal bracket. At 6:26 you can see the lip-side facing the front of the dryer, exactly opposite what we see at 5:37. The problem is, at 5:53, with everything in his hand, the lip-side is closest to the metal bracket while he's disassembling it. My guess is, he needed to re-record this portion of the video because he already had it taken apart and realized he hadn't recorded any of it. So, he put it back together, incorrectly, then proceeds to record himself taking it apart and finally re-assembling the new part, again incorrectly with the lip closest to the bracket. Good eye @Rick Nelson.
Thank you for posting this video. It helped me out tremendously.
THANK YOU! I followed your video and it was perfect. No more squealing dryer. Although my wife was convinced we were going to have to buy a new one.
You probably dont give a damn but does someone know of a method to get back into an instagram account?
I stupidly lost my login password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Julio Roy Instablaster :)
@Fabian Tucker i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I've watched so many of these videos that I feel like I know this guy. I have not read this thread entirely so perhaps this comment has already been addressed:
Contrary to what is taught in this video, the grooves on MY Maytag dryer belt face AWAY from the drum surface...this is because of Model LDE312's belt threading diagram.
If I start the belt reinstallation process by placing the groove-side of the belt against the drum surface, by the time the belt is wrapped around the motor shaft the grooves do not make contact with the shaft! The shaft has grooves, which makes it clear that the shaft was designed for the belt to "fit" into its grooves.
Common sense told me that the grooves SHOULD face the drum because of improved friction...so I was surprised when I discovered the "fabric" side facing the drum when I opened up my dryer. I thought the previous technician made a mistake. But now I understand that the grooves must fit into the motor shaft and the only way this will happen (if you follow the threading diagram) is to have the grooves face AWAY from the drum.
Am I missing something? I KNOW that I am threading the belt correctly...
Its seems to easy but also looks you have the experience and practice and that's something that we don't have but it was good to learn something good. ... thank you
Great video. Thanks I will be fixing this tonight. I’m excited because I’ve never messed with a dryer before. Thanks.
Thank you ..exactly what I needed and thank you for fast forwarding where necessary.Just wondering why there isn't an access panel on the back to bypass 90% of the procedure.
Was wondering the same thing: seems like a more logical solution.
And thank you only 4 years later. Will be replacing it all inside this week.
How does the pulley attachment go back on? I know it's near the motor, but mine came off when I pulled the drum out to replace the belt.
One of my first service calls was this very same replacement on the same brand. Good stuff. BK
you put the idler on backwards from the way you took it off... the shoulder of the idler pulley should be to the outside to keep the belt from sliding off. ??
My spring came off and I see it’s same spring as ur video. I can’t figure out where it goes. It came out before I got the drum out and now I don’t know where to hook it back to
Thank you so much for the informative video!
Quick question.....when I went to take the wheel off, the washer crumbled. I believe due to the age of the dryer. Can you suggest an alternate washer or is it a must to use that type of washer?
Thanks again!
The video does NOT show how the belt goes around the idler wheel. Don't you think that's important?: It also doesn't show how he got the idler pulley off the area where it's attached. I think the instructor ought to try to think like someone who has never seen the inside of the dryer. I found the other instructions were helpful but I had to search the internet for a video that shows the proper placement of the belt around the motor and around idler pulley wheel. I also appreciate the comment below (Rick Nelson) stating that the idler wheel is installed incorrectly in this video, (with reference to the lip of the wheel facing towards the back,) I can't imagine why the instructor would do that.
I'm having the same issue. Where did you find a video showing the placement?
@@tinatinker1103 Dear Tina, Are you still looking? If so, I'll dig it up. Unlike Richard (below) I opened the dryer four other times to replace "other parts" until I finally arrived at this one on trial number five.
Is there really a bearing on this thing or is that center fixed to the plastic? Same question for the guide roller wheels. They all seem fixed to me without any bearings at all. I just re-lubricated the posts and reassembled and the squeak is gone - for now.
Sure looks that way.. Somebody should answer this.
I'm considering whether i should take it apart now and try greasing it before ordering the parts.
Never grease the posts supports are riding on. It will fail alot sooner. Simply polish with Emery cloth till shiny
trying this weekend. Thanks for the video
You are the best thank you so much bro 👍🤝👊
DO NOT assemble the wheel to the bracket like he does starting at 5:53. It's BACKWARD!! @Rick Nelson keenly pointed out, at 5:37 the lip of the wheel is farthest away from the metal bracket, but the rest of the video (from 5:53 onward) it's shown closest to the metal bracket. My guess is the guy probably already had it taken apart and realized he didn't record it. So, off camera, he assembled it incorrectly and starts recording at 5:53 with the lip closest to the bracket...and then re-assembles it that way, which is wrong. If that ridge is nearest the bracket, the drum rotation strap will probably fall off the pulley and you'll waste more time with this repair. It's frustrating that they have 59K subscribers and CLEARLY don't care about what they post. I know this because it has been up for 7 years and 2 years after it was posted, users started pointing out this problem. Report it! Time is too valuable. If it wasn't they'd use their time to FIX IT.
My pulley was the problem as it was very hard to turn. After oiling, it rotates just fine. Is that a satisfactory repair or must the wheel be replaced?
You can get away with cleaning the gunk that's collected inside the idler pulley bushing and on the shaft it spins on if the idler pulley hasn't been damaged by the belt running over it having worn a path or even a hole into it due to the idler pulley having been unable to rotate. It's best to simply polish the shaft by using a shop cloth and then using the shop cloth to clean inside the bushing of the idler pulley itself. If after this the idler pulley spins freely you're good to go. Lubricants can be problematic because lint will adhere to the lubricant literally gumming up the works. I don't use lubricants.
Part number?
The OEM Part # for this part is WP6-3700340. You can find it here: www.fix.com/parts/dryer/maytag/fix11743032/idler-pulley-wheel-and-bearing-wp6-3700340/
YOU CAN'T ACCESS IT FROM THE REAR?
when he was removing the white pulley wheel, the shelf on the wheel was opposite the metal bracket. When he put it back on, he reversed it. Bad instructions
Why unplug it? What's a screwdriver?
A screwdriver is a swimming pool tool. You know that bottle of chlorine with the pH already in it? You use the screwdriver to puncture the induction seal under the lid of the bottle so that it pours out easier.
Soooo funny! ; )