Evaporust leaves a dark film on steel, especially when it is hardened. You can just clean it off though. Electrolysis is definitely a much cheaper option, but very prone to flash rust, which the film left from Evaporust prevents.
+Hand Tool Rescue that is good to know. I noticed the color would come off pretty easy. I have just been coating everything in a lite coat of oil after I pull it out of the evaporust
I disagree, flash rust is caused from an oxidizer like many acids that are used (like hydrochloric acid) the electrolysis method will not cause rusting after the electricity is shut off, matter of fact an alkaline solution/deposit on tools will prevent further rust from occurring.
Ive been restoring an Old SBL 10K for a while now, I think you've done a great job. One thing I've done and It works rather well is mask and sandblast parts that are exterior pieces. It saves a lot of time and then I repaint them once fine wire wheeled.
Love your vids but one critique. Your audio is a bit all over the place. I turn up the volume to hear you speak but then the music is too loud. Try applying a normalization gain filter. Thanks for the cool content! Keep it coming!
When using an ultrasonic, the solution needs to be roughly 10 degrees below the boiling point of the solutions to get the best effect. You want the pressure oscillation to create steam jets to do your scrubbing. Frequency also matters. For big chunks use low frequency. For small scrubbing and to get into fine details, use high frequency.
Lye (bases in general) will work on fatty and oily products. Think of mixing it with human fat to make soap in Fight Club. You need an acid to remove rust. Zero reason to expect sodium hydroxide to work on rust.
Great methods, I love the electrolysis method myself, never tried evaporust but looks like a good product. Looking forward to this season. Cheers guys!
With a few years of amateur car part restoration behind me, I have tried wire brush and elbow grease, through to garnet (sand) blasting, and electrolysis. I found it was best finishing the mechanical process with chemicals like "Jenolite" "naval Jelly" which are both based on acid, mostly Phosphoric acid with others.The phosphoric acid provides gives a grey phosphate coating that is rust resistant. I have parts in my spares boxes that where sands blasted and then treated with Jenolite that are rust free after more than 15 years. I set up a 120 gallon plastic barrel of "washing Soda" and a 12 volt 30 amp power supply to remove the very heavily rusted parts, it removes the flakes (and paint) leaving the parts with a thin film of BLACK ferric (ferrous ??) oxide, looks like a fine powdery mill scale, this is best removed immediately with a wire brush or scotch-bright pad, and you need to stop further rusting. I tried acid of various types (sulphuric, hydrochloric etc) but I found the easiest and safest to be neat 81% phosphoric acid (sold in the UK as "PH DOWN" for hydroponics alkalinity control), it is FOOD GRADE (as used in cola drinks at about 0.05%). I you forget your gloves it only stings your cuts, I don't recommend handling it without gloves, your skin gets "slippery" (dissolved). I recently purchased a pillar drill with minor rust (not like the bantam lathe), the phosphoric acid removes and the rust minor and major, if brushed or cleaned with emery cloth the get the worst off. I clean the surfaces with brake cleaner and/or acetone both work well before the phosphoric acid, grease and oil will stop it working. The chuck key was beyond repair, I thought I needed a new one, but I found that using the Phosphoric acid HOT, diluted with some tap water, I could achieve a BLACK finish with all the rust removed. Soaked in WD40 it looks as good as new. Further experimenting shows that the HOT DILUTED process can be controlled to allow a fine grey finish through to black, I used it to restore a pair of V blocks that had 50 years of thin bright orange rust collected in bottom of my apprentice tool box, to pale grey finish. I also restored a pair of rusty apprentice piece tool makers clamps back to black finish (originally oil blacked).I will in the future put up a youtube video, when my health permits. Chris
those cheap tumblers work really really well when u put cat litter in there. i use it all the time and even used it for a poor little rusted week wacker engine block
The solution for the Ultrasonic Cleaner can be pretty much anything that removes rust...but quicker with the bath. Using the Evapo-Rust in the US bath would work very well...and in just a couple/three hours.
Acid is usually used industrially for removing rust (pickling) I did an engine and sheet metal that way with great results except it ate a sintered iron harmonic balancer to where the original press fit became so loose it would spin on the crank! Adding some phosphoric acid "MetalPrep" left a nice phosphate coating to paint on, though I jazzed up the acidity with judicious additions of muriatic acid from HD. Take great care, it is undiluted! I think the use of a base, sodium carbonate, was a great idea to make the electrolyte conductive, as I recall NaCO3 is good for cutting grease and combined with the agitation of the fizzing electrolyte was probably good at removing any remaining grease. It would be interesting to try that solution to cut grease and rust both. Glad to see there is an alternative to abrasive on stamped leas screw wheels, I hate to see them worn.
hey guys, a bit late to the party however... i have found with basic rust removal, a simple vinegar bath (just plain white vinegar mixed with water ((3parts vinegar, 1 part water)) and a few hours left to soak usually gets most surface rust to break off, which is then followed by a quick scrub with scotchbrite, steel wool and any other abrasive will do wonders to the larger and less intricate parts, any maybe even smaller parts.. i could not stress enough though to dry any remnants of vinegar solution off after the scrub has been completed; to prevent further rusting of parts.. colder weather can affect this process (not significantly). loving the rebuild by the way! ps.... don't know how i found this channel but its so far so good for me! double thumbs up
About the ultrasonic cleaner. Use a solution of citric acid. And if there is grease on the rusty part, add a little detergent so the citric acid can penetrate the oily surface.
Not to mention that it is a tiny unit, that has next to no power, maybe usefull for a few screws at a time. For bigger parts etc. you need a bigger unit with frequency sweep.
Body shops use a product named metal prep which removes rust and leaves a phosphate primer coating for painting - scrubbing with a medium fine wire brush helps process. Similar stuff available at HD. When it loses its punch or if you want to punch it up a notch, try adding some muriatic acid (hydrocloric acid). Acid eats rust, bases eat grease. I used it on a small block Chevy engine once and it worked great on stuff that needed painting, left a phosphate coating on stuff that needed to be shiny, and tried to eat the sintered steel harmonic balancer, the formerly press fit balancer would spin on the crankshaft. I had to buy a new one - expect the same disaster with brass, aluminum and chrome dissolving. Use for short periods and neutralize with baking soda afterwards. Do not allow to soak unsupervised. This is with the HCl turned up strong. do not add water to acid, but do the reverse, water to acid can boil and blow it all in your face! This is industrial stuff, be very careful.
Electrolysis is by far the cheapest and most effective, it will also remove layers of paint. You do need to make sure anode and solution are regularly cleaned for max effect. I personally worry about the safety of leaving it running with kids and pets so I take measures to hide the vat. I also like Purple Power/ Super Clean for a set/forget option if I'm not going to be in shop for a while.
White vinegar in the ultrasonic would probably work better. While a part can be left in electrolysis for days, don't leave your machine metal in vinegar more than a few hours without checking its progress, to prevention erosion of the metal.. The price was right, and now you will have elbow grease equity in the lathe, and should be able to triple your money, or more. Nice find in the gearbox.
Cool... a new take on the classic rust-removal video! :) I'd have thought the wire wheel would have kicked Scotch-Brite's ass... show how little you know until you try it. Some people have said that off-the-shelf chemical products like Evapo-Rust are a bit rubbish... but you seem to have got good results... shows how little you know until................. Everyone seems to think Electrolysis rules the roost though!
I know im late but pick up a scotch brite flap wheel. I havent seen them in stores but my shop has them and they are the best shit in the world. They will polish any metal with very very little metal removal but they will blow through mill scale and leave a super smooth finish
Maybe a little bit late, but vinegar acid reacts with the iron (Fe) and builds acetats (i don't know if this is the right english word) it's a little bit like blueing metal and i also prevents from further rusting. Not to much of course. But you need to neutralize the acid, otherwise you have rusty parts within minutes. Washing powder with water works very good for that.
8" 3/4 hp bench grinder with a twisted wire brush. More fragile stuff a normal wire wheel. For the 'chemical ' solution. Mollasses but you have to hose the gunk off and then CRC it or will go rusty immediatly. For the bed a twisted wire 4" brush on a diegrinder.
I just started watching your Videos and just loving it. I also have a small reconditioning unit in India we import Workshop Machinery from Abroad and recondition ut and sell here. I love your work and the sloutions and methods you are using. I want to purchase the Heavy Duty Scrotchbite you used in Spring Chuck Can you help me out
Hydrochloric Acid (muriatic acid) is the active ingredient in white vinegar. For $10 at Lowes you can buy a gallon. Important note: you need to neutralize the acid afterwards, Bicarbonate soda works well, then rinse, and paint or cover with oil film.
I work at a central Pennsylvania powdered metal steam treat company and if parts rust coming out of the steamers it will ruin a whole order which can cost thousands ... We use 55 gallon drums of evaporust
Why would you mention the minuscule power use of the electrolysis and not the cost of a bottle of Evaporust? not to mention toxic chemical solution everywhere. Get a good quality bench top power supply that outputs around 30v/10 amps, make your anodes bigger in order to draw more amps and then you can do the whole headstock in a few hours paint and all. It is by far the most gentle but bubblingly effective way to do it. Great video by the way, you wont regret having and old English iron machine tool in your shop.
Tristan Patterson - I agree electrolysis is a winner. However, I noticed excessive bubbling means only water is being split, the process is somewhat blocked by the surface layer that develops on the part. To overcome this, I mixed two technologies to remove rust from some smaller parts (collets), did the electrolysis in an ultrasonic cleaner, with the below mentioned vinegar solution. The process speeded up dramatically. Quickly wiped off any remaining loosened up surface contamination, washed off the part and immersed in mineral oil completely, before final wipe down. I also used graphite electrode, leaves the solution cleaner than iron ones. My ultrasonic bath is about the same size as in the video, so larger parts may not fit. To prevent the electrolyte causing accidental damage to the cleaner, I filled the tank with plain water and the electrolyte, electrodes and parts were inside either a plastic bag, or in a plastic bottle, immersed in the tank. I've been thinking to get a marine boat de-fouling kit that contains the transducers and immerse it for agitation in a larger container, it is on the to-do list!
Tristan Patterson - Graphite is an excellent conductor. eBay is a good source for inexpensive rods at around 6-10 mm diameter, usually Chinese origin, some are sold by the dozen, some by weight. Otherwise EDM electrodes are also quite good, but the dense high quality ones may be too expensive for this application. Aluminium (aluminum) smelters use huge ones as anodes, I bought some at an auction up-to 150mm diameter and 1m long in view of making my own electrodes for larger parts, but that would require a much larger power source than what I currently have. For thin pencil size ones I use them in parallel, say one inside the centre line of the collet and three evenly spaced outside, to even the current distribution. It works with just one, but you need to either reposition the part or the electrode every now and then. Just make sure you don't short with the workpiece. In a pinch you can salvage some from discharged Extra Heavy Duty lantern batteries, the centre electrode is a carbon rod. (Not the later alkaline ones which use a different chemistry, please look it up). Good luck experimenting!
not sure why you picked sodium hydroxide in the shaker it's alkaline goober, you need an acid, hydrochloric (causes rust too) phosphoric (great) or acetic acid (cheep)
Has anyone ever told you, that one of u looks like one of the co hosts of Red Letter Media's half in the bag? Ur like the extremely smart, savvy version of him
citric acid is good on copper and brass dont know about iron and steel. Citric acid is used for cleaning wine bottles, it can be purchased in crystal for to dissolve in water.
Rust.. If you are in a hurry 5-10 minutes in 30% HCL and 10 minutes in a bucket of water with a teaspoon top of backing soda then dry with heat gun or hairdryer and oil.. trust me that works And if you dont like HCL and have more time submerge 4-5 days in vinegar then wash and light scrub with a kitchen sponge and then 30 minutes in a bucket of water with a teaspoon top of backing soda, then dry with heat gun or hairdryer and oil..
I totally agree. I use Naval Jelly (Phosphoric Acid in gel form) for things that cannot be easily removed and dipped. For most other items I use either electrolysis or a Phosphoric acid solution. The only warning is to not leave cast iron items in the Phosphoric acid solution any longer than necessary. Plain steel does not seem to be limited in this way.
So I get you guys were happy with certain solutions, but why not go further in depth on how you setup the electrolysis so people can do it themselves at home without going to another youtube channel?
Wait wait wait!!! No Vinegar bath option??!!!! So disappointed.. it's my go to for EVERYTHING I've "derusted" so unbelievably cheap, approachable, and effective. The only issue is you kinda need to wipe away all the loose rust... which sounds like the PERFECT solution for your sonic cleaner
Soak your rusty parts in apple cider vinegar for 24 hrs. then wipe the rust off with a shop rag. You'll be amazed. Don't deny it until you've tried it.
THE MTB FANATIC "super washing soda," baking soda will work too but slower. Any electrolyte will work actually, but I wouldn't recommend table salt because you'll be generating chlorine gas in the process if you do. Sodium bicarbonate is sold even cheaper without a brand-name if you get it from a pool supply store or from a chemical supply for printmakers.
Evaporust leaves a dark film on steel, especially when it is hardened. You can just clean it off though.
Electrolysis is definitely a much cheaper option, but very prone to flash rust, which the film left from Evaporust prevents.
+Hand Tool Rescue that is good to know. I noticed the color would come off pretty easy. I have just been coating everything in a lite coat of oil after I pull it out of the evaporust
Stick the Evaporust in the ultrasonic cleaner! Works faster and minimizes the deposits
yes the dark 'film is called 'iron' ... it reduced the ferrous oxide to metallic state
I disagree, flash rust is caused from an oxidizer like many acids that are used (like hydrochloric acid) the electrolysis method will not cause rusting after the electricity is shut off, matter of fact an alkaline solution/deposit on tools will prevent further rust from occurring.
Ive been restoring an Old SBL 10K for a while now, I think you've done a great job. One thing I've done and It works rather well is mask and sandblast parts that are exterior pieces. It saves a lot of time and then I repaint them once fine wire wheeled.
Good side by side comparison. Looking forward to watching the rest of the videos. Good luck with the restoration.
Love your vids but one critique. Your audio is a bit all over the place. I turn up the volume to hear you speak but then the music is too loud. Try applying a normalization gain filter. Thanks for the cool content! Keep it coming!
Mark Hinchey i
I second that.
This. 100% this.
you can use a software called levelator. Very easy to use and it's free.
thanks. What was in the spray can you were using to clean the initial gunk off the lathe? brake cleaner?
It's not mill scale, it's lathe scale! Badum Tis! :D
Bad form to use an abrasive product around uncovered lathe ways. You should have done the chuck away from the lathe.
When using an ultrasonic, the solution needs to be roughly 10 degrees below the boiling point of the solutions to get the best effect. You want the pressure oscillation to create steam jets to do your scrubbing. Frequency also matters. For big chunks use low frequency. For small scrubbing and to get into fine details, use high frequency.
For rust a strong base solution is a no-no, as many have mentioned a mild acid works best (vinegar) is cheap. Good show and thanks for your work.
I do not speak English, but I love the technique and initiative of you !!!! Brazil sends hugs !!
My regards to Tom Jobim.
Lye (bases in general) will work on fatty and oily products. Think of mixing it with human fat to make soap in Fight Club. You need an acid to remove rust. Zero reason to expect sodium hydroxide to work on rust.
exactly. rust is an iron oxide (oxidised iron) so we need to REVERSE this and REDUCE - which calls for an ACID
Lye solution is also the best for removing anodizing from aluminum!
Great methods, I love the electrolysis method myself, never tried evaporust but looks like a good product. Looking forward to this season. Cheers guys!
Amra what about evaporust in the ultrasonic?
With a few years of amateur car part restoration behind me, I have tried wire brush and elbow grease, through to garnet (sand) blasting, and electrolysis.
I found it was best finishing the mechanical process with chemicals like "Jenolite" "naval Jelly" which are both based on acid, mostly Phosphoric acid with others.The phosphoric acid provides gives a grey phosphate coating that is rust resistant. I have parts in my spares boxes that where sands blasted and then treated with Jenolite that are rust free after more than 15 years.
I set up a 120 gallon plastic barrel of "washing Soda" and a 12 volt 30 amp power supply to remove the very heavily rusted parts, it removes the flakes (and paint) leaving the parts with a thin film of BLACK ferric (ferrous ??) oxide, looks like a fine powdery mill scale, this is best removed immediately with a wire brush or scotch-bright pad, and you need to stop further rusting.
I tried acid of various types (sulphuric, hydrochloric etc) but I found the easiest and safest to be neat 81% phosphoric acid (sold in the UK as "PH DOWN" for hydroponics alkalinity control), it is FOOD GRADE (as used in cola drinks at about 0.05%).
I you forget your gloves it only stings your cuts, I don't recommend handling it without gloves, your skin gets "slippery" (dissolved).
I recently purchased a pillar drill with minor rust (not like the bantam lathe), the phosphoric acid removes and the rust minor and major, if brushed or cleaned with emery cloth the get the worst off. I clean the surfaces with brake cleaner and/or acetone both work well before the phosphoric acid, grease and oil will stop it working.
The chuck key was beyond repair, I thought I needed a new one, but I found that using the Phosphoric acid HOT, diluted with some tap water, I could achieve a BLACK finish with all the rust removed. Soaked in WD40 it looks as good as new.
Further experimenting shows that the HOT DILUTED process can be controlled to allow a fine grey finish through to black, I used it to restore a pair of V blocks that had 50 years of thin bright orange rust collected in bottom of my apprentice tool box, to pale grey finish. I also restored a pair of rusty apprentice piece tool makers clamps back to black finish (originally oil blacked).I will in the future put up a youtube video, when my health permits.
Chris
CellZ
apper
Evapo-rust in ultrasonic!
those cheap tumblers work really really well when u put cat litter in there. i use it all the time and even used it for a poor little rusted week wacker engine block
Tell us the voltage applied and solution used for the electrolysis...?
Where do you buy citric acid? it is recommended for cleaning radiators.
Do you have the assembly instructions with the tolerances and torque values.??
The solution for the Ultrasonic Cleaner can be pretty much anything that removes rust...but quicker with the bath.
Using the Evapo-Rust in the US bath would work very well...and in just a couple/three hours.
Is using very abrasive materials on a Precision instrument a good idea? Your tolerances are not gonna be nearly as tight as they used to be.
its not mill scale....its rust left over from the wire brush
Acid is usually used industrially for removing rust (pickling) I did an engine and sheet metal that way with great results except it ate a sintered iron harmonic balancer to where the original press fit became so loose it would spin on the crank! Adding some phosphoric acid "MetalPrep" left a nice phosphate coating to paint on, though I jazzed up the acidity with judicious additions of muriatic acid from HD. Take great care, it is undiluted!
I think the use of a base, sodium carbonate, was a great idea to make the electrolyte conductive, as I recall NaCO3 is good for cutting grease and combined with the agitation of the fizzing electrolyte was probably good at removing any remaining grease. It would be interesting to try that solution to cut grease and rust both. Glad to see there is an alternative to abrasive on stamped leas screw wheels, I hate to see them worn.
Please google mill scale
Was driving me nuts too.
hey guys, a bit late to the party however... i have found with basic rust removal, a simple vinegar bath (just plain white vinegar mixed with water ((3parts vinegar, 1 part water)) and a few hours left to soak usually gets most surface rust to break off, which is then followed by a quick scrub with scotchbrite, steel wool and any other abrasive will do wonders to the larger and less intricate parts, any maybe even smaller parts.. i could not stress enough though to dry any remnants of vinegar solution off after the scrub has been completed; to prevent further rusting of parts.. colder weather can affect this process (not significantly). loving the rebuild by the way! ps.... don't know how i found this channel but its so far so good for me! double thumbs up
also the solution can be reused multiple times, with a top up of vinegar every now and then! cheap and ez
About the ultrasonic cleaner. Use a solution of citric acid. And if there is grease on the rusty part, add a little detergent so the citric acid can penetrate the oily surface.
Not to mention that it is a tiny unit, that has next to no power, maybe usefull for a few screws at a time. For bigger parts etc. you need a bigger unit with frequency sweep.
Hey! Try EvaporRust in the ultrasonic cleaner!
Molasses works great as well.,if your willing to wait a few days or weeks depending on the size of what your piece
Body shops use a product named metal prep which removes rust and leaves a phosphate primer coating for painting - scrubbing with a medium fine wire brush helps process. Similar stuff available at HD. When it loses its punch or if you want to punch it up a notch, try adding some muriatic acid (hydrocloric acid). Acid eats rust, bases eat grease. I used it on a small block Chevy engine once and it worked great on stuff that needed painting, left a phosphate coating on stuff that needed to be shiny, and tried to eat the sintered steel harmonic balancer, the formerly press fit balancer would spin on the crankshaft. I had to buy a new one - expect the same disaster with brass, aluminum and chrome dissolving. Use for short periods and neutralize with baking soda afterwards. Do not allow to soak unsupervised. This is with the HCl turned up strong. do not add water to acid, but do the reverse, water to acid can boil and blow it all in your face! This is industrial stuff, be very careful.
I use a composite deburing wheel which works great for polishing after the rust is off.
Electrolysis is by far the cheapest and most effective, it will also remove layers of paint. You do need to make sure anode and solution are regularly cleaned for max effect. I personally worry about the safety of leaving it running with kids and pets so I take measures to hide the vat. I also like Purple Power/ Super Clean for a set/forget option if I'm not going to be in shop for a while.
White vinegar in the ultrasonic would probably work better. While a part can be left in electrolysis for days, don't leave your machine metal in vinegar more than a few hours without checking its progress, to prevention erosion of the metal.. The price was right, and now you will have elbow grease equity in the lathe, and should be able to triple your money, or more. Nice find in the gearbox.
Cool... a new take on the classic rust-removal video! :)
I'd have thought the wire wheel would have kicked Scotch-Brite's ass... show how little you know until you try it.
Some people have said that off-the-shelf chemical products like Evapo-Rust are a bit rubbish... but you seem to have got good results... shows how little you know until.................
Everyone seems to think Electrolysis rules the roost though!
have you tried citric acid for rust removal....... works on stainless too.....but you have to keep it warm
Try electrolysising the evaporust in the ultrasonic ;)
One last thing... Is it a good idea to scrub the late chuck in such a none balanced way?
Great Video, all the cleaning solutions at one time, thanks for that.
dude it's Macklemore and RA Scion! I had no idea you guys were home machinists
Which one better wd-40 or evaporust? Price? Sandblasting would be great idea too.
Freddy Kudaya WD-40 isn't really a rust remover. It might loosen some surface rust, but not more than that.
Sandblasting removes metal too; you don't want that.
when do you think you will try laser rust removal?
I know im late but pick up a scotch brite flap wheel. I havent seen them in stores but my shop has them and they are the best shit in the world. They will polish any metal with very very little metal removal but they will blow through mill scale and leave a super smooth finish
The Evaporust is probably just Citric Acid, which works well. Sold in the UK as kettle descaler.
Maybe a little bit late, but vinegar acid reacts with the iron (Fe) and builds acetats (i don't know if this is the right english word) it's a little bit like blueing metal and i also prevents from further rusting. Not to much of course. But you need to neutralize the acid, otherwise you have rusty parts within minutes. Washing powder with water works very good for that.
Vinegar and sault solution, cheap and works well. Degrease first and leave for a day or so.
You didnt choose the old vinegar trick
What year was this lathe built?
why not put evaporust in the ultrasonic cleaner? best of both
Fabulously Interesting - especially the electrolysis
8" 3/4 hp bench grinder with a twisted wire brush. More fragile stuff a normal wire wheel.
For the 'chemical ' solution. Mollasses but you have to hose the gunk off and then CRC it or will go rusty immediatly.
For the bed a twisted wire 4" brush on a diegrinder.
I use ultrasonic to remove oil prepping my parts for brazing.
I just started watching your Videos and just loving it. I also have a small reconditioning unit in India we import Workshop Machinery from Abroad and recondition ut and sell here. I love your work and the sloutions and methods you are using. I want to purchase the Heavy Duty Scrotchbite you used in Spring Chuck Can you help me out
I know this is a old video but you should have definitely tried sand blasting, it gets rid of rust so good
Gets rid of metal, too...
White vinegar works good for cutting rust
white vinegar
This is the best and cheapest solution. No discoloration or etching like evaporust. Will eat the rust down to good metal and doesn't take as long.
Isn't that the main ingredient in Evaporust?
Hydrochloric Acid (muriatic acid) is the active ingredient in white vinegar. For $10 at Lowes you can buy a gallon. Important note: you need to neutralize the acid afterwards, Bicarbonate soda works well, then rinse, and paint or cover with oil film.
there is no HCl in vinegar. vinegar is acetic acid in water, about 5%.
I recently put white vinegar to the test on some rusty old Gym weights and the result was great. Very hard option to beat for the price.
Chris Forsberg and Ryan Tuerck?
I work at a central Pennsylvania powdered metal steam treat company and if parts rust coming out of the steamers it will ruin a whole order which can cost thousands ... We use 55 gallon drums of evaporust
You could put white vinegar in the ultrasonic cleaner
Try using 5% acidic vinegar for full rust removal
Why would you mention the minuscule power use of the electrolysis and not the cost of a bottle of Evaporust? not to mention toxic chemical solution everywhere. Get a good quality bench top power supply that outputs around 30v/10 amps, make your anodes bigger in order to draw more amps and then you can do the whole headstock in a few hours paint and all. It is by far the most gentle but bubblingly effective way to do it. Great video by the way, you wont regret having and old English iron machine tool in your shop.
+Tristan Patterson that's a great point, I wouldn't have considered this for paint removal. I will have to give that a try.
Tristan Patterson - I agree electrolysis is a winner. However, I noticed excessive bubbling means only water is being split, the process is somewhat blocked by the surface layer that develops on the part. To overcome this, I mixed two technologies to remove rust from some smaller parts (collets), did the electrolysis in an ultrasonic cleaner, with the below mentioned vinegar solution. The process speeded up dramatically. Quickly wiped off any remaining loosened up surface contamination, washed off the part and immersed in mineral oil completely, before final wipe down. I also used graphite electrode, leaves the solution cleaner than iron ones. My ultrasonic bath is about the same size as in the video, so larger parts may not fit. To prevent the electrolyte causing accidental damage to the cleaner, I filled the tank with plain water and the electrolyte, electrodes and parts were inside either a plastic bag, or in a plastic bottle, immersed in the tank. I've been thinking to get a marine boat de-fouling kit that contains the transducers and immerse it for agitation in a larger container, it is on the to-do list!
Wow, yeah the graphite electrodes is a great idea. Do they conduct as good and how large can you get them?
Tristan Patterson - Graphite is an excellent conductor. eBay is a good source for inexpensive rods at around 6-10 mm diameter, usually Chinese origin, some are sold by the dozen, some by weight. Otherwise EDM electrodes are also quite good, but the dense high quality ones may be too expensive for this application. Aluminium (aluminum) smelters use huge ones as anodes, I bought some at an auction up-to 150mm diameter and 1m long in view of making my own electrodes for larger parts, but that would require a much larger power source than what I currently have. For thin pencil size ones I use them in parallel, say one inside the centre line of the collet and three evenly spaced outside, to even the current distribution. It works with just one, but you need to either reposition the part or the electrode every now and then. Just make sure you don't short with the workpiece. In a pinch you can salvage some from discharged Extra Heavy Duty lantern batteries, the centre electrode is a carbon rod. (Not the later alkaline ones which use a different chemistry, please look it up). Good luck experimenting!
Excellent, I have some of those lantern batteries.
i love the sound effects.
Won't all this rust removal cause intolerances and play with the lathes moving parts?
Actually that's not a question because I already know it will, but how much? That's what I meant to ask!
...versus what, leaving the rust? Kind of the only valid option...
You guys are awesome!
awesome guys, so much information, great job
not sure why you picked sodium hydroxide in the shaker it's alkaline goober, you need an acid, hydrochloric (causes rust too) phosphoric (great) or acetic acid (cheep)
Try vinegar. Worked wonders for me.
Is that JP Sears? At 0:25. Coconut oil will do the trick.
Very useful information.
Lathe Series?
Evaporust and a wire wheel is all you ever need
you could have just turned the lathe on and used steel wool...
Has anyone ever told you, that one of u looks like one of the co hosts of Red Letter Media's half in the bag? Ur like the extremely smart, savvy version of him
Evapo rust works like vinegar solutions. Rust is the easiest this to eat away.
I want tp buy a used lathe too. My father, a toolmaker and technician allways said I shouldnt
Little did they know it's a lathe, they could have just used the lathe to clean the lathe... would have been way more efficient and quick
citric acid is good on copper and brass dont know about iron and steel. Citric acid is used for cleaning wine bottles, it can be purchased in crystal for to dissolve in water.
Rust.. If you are in a hurry 5-10 minutes in 30% HCL and 10 minutes in a bucket of water with a teaspoon top of backing soda then dry with heat gun or hairdryer and oil.. trust me that works
And if you dont like HCL and have more time submerge 4-5 days in vinegar then wash and light scrub with a kitchen sponge and then 30 minutes in a bucket of water with a teaspoon top of backing soda, then dry with heat gun or hairdryer and oil..
Great job.
Very good compare thank you alot
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Alkaline, is great for degreasing, it will attack oils and such.. (e.g.) like like soap making
Oxalic acid. Works wonders
now try evaporust in the ultrasonic cleaner
How to remove rust from lathe machine parts
Keep it up yall lol
Good work
Share pins should be copper.so that they shear.
I just watched a guy use citric acid, the result looked pretty good.
Evapo-Rust IN the ultrasonic cleaner.
high grade phosphoric acid is the best solution for removing rust.
I totally agree. I use Naval Jelly (Phosphoric Acid in gel form) for things that cannot be easily removed and dipped. For most other items I use either electrolysis or a Phosphoric acid solution. The only warning is to not leave cast iron items in the Phosphoric acid solution any longer than necessary. Plain steel does not seem to be limited in this way.
Many of these parts could have been turned with some emery paper to remove the rust. Oh wait...
sorry, guys..... but the Hood old cheap white vinagre? maybe boiling it whith the pieaces, or spray it......
So I get you guys were happy with certain solutions, but why not go
further in depth on how you setup the electrolysis so people can do it
themselves at home without going to another youtube channel?
Also DIESEL is AMAZING for rust removal...
You find very good high quality motor in Pakistan . Pakistan also make the lathe machine
Love it!
Sorry, that should be Na2CO3, washing soda.en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_carbonate
Wait wait wait!!! No Vinegar bath option??!!!! So disappointed.. it's my go to for EVERYTHING I've "derusted" so unbelievably cheap, approachable, and effective. The only issue is you kinda need to wipe away all the loose rust... which sounds like the PERFECT solution for your sonic cleaner
a little late to the party... I know but Ultrasonic cleaner plus vinegar.
Soak your rusty parts in apple cider vinegar for 24 hrs. then wipe the rust off with a shop rag. You'll be amazed. Don't deny it until you've tried it.
its 6 am and i watching a lathe restoration videos XD
1:29 because baking soda sounded too unprofessional 😂😂😂
THE MTB FANATIC "super washing soda," baking soda will work too but slower. Any electrolyte will work actually, but I wouldn't recommend table salt because you'll be generating chlorine gas in the process if you do. Sodium bicarbonate is sold even cheaper without a brand-name if you get it from a pool supply store or from a chemical supply for printmakers.
He wasn't using baking soda, that's why. He was using sodium carbonate, which is washing soda. Sodium bicarbonate is baking soda. Lol
1 part Molasses mixed with 9 parts of Water. Let sit for a week and rinse off.
That intro, lol, subscriiibed