Best instructional video I have ever seen! The use of subtitles was much better than using audio, and the video was awesome (very clear, good angles). Kudos!
Your video helped me to be confident enough to attempt my first suspension repair ever, ans it was a success. The only supplies I needed to buy were a 21mm wrench, a budget lower control arm and a jack stand. My buddy brought over a mallet, his floor jack, and his impact. Thank you so much.
This was a big help, thanks ts6034. For others, note that a 21mm open end wrench was needed for a the the tie rod and lower control arm nut near the brake disc.
Glad you mentioned opening the mounting points. When I first did a control arm some years back I almost beat the new control arm senseless trying to get it in. Behold I realize the mount pinches tight upon previous installation. Lol
Approximately how many hours would it take for an experienced repair shop to remove and replace the lower control arms with the ball joint and control arm bushing already installed and replaced the front struts on a Ford 500 thank you
Thank you so much for your awesome instructional video. You saved me from not spending so much money. Keep your videos coming because I will be watching.
Great end tip 👌 I grew up working on cars since I could remember and unlike most mechanics I always check ..heres a tip for you when working on a Chevy 2000 to 2009 when you replace pads or do breaks take the extra time to remove the caliper bracket ( 2 .18mm bolts) and lock tight the shit out of them I even take a chisle and dimple the threads to lock the bolts in place thats the famous wheel lock problem one or the other bolt works loose and out then the caliper hits rim and locks either in reverse or forward I had to drive gf 07 trailblazer 11 miles backwards home 😆 that was my sighn lmao
Thank you very much for this instructional video.i followed to the T helped alot. Knowing socket sizes i live in wi.so alot of salt around .i had to torch 1 bolt off.other than that your instructions were very useful.in fact was watching your video while doing changing my lower assembly.THANKS keep up the goid work.
What brand would you recommend? I was looking at Dorman and both the sway bar links, and the control arms are made in China. So I was kinda of iffy if I should buy this brand or not.
I just did the control arms on a Freestyle, all the same as the Montego/500. Rear vertical bolts torque specs are 73 lb ft., the big 4 in. bolt is 111 lb ft., and the ball joint is also 111. Wheel hub nut is 248 lb ft.
Nice video. But unless you tighten that lower control arm bolt with suspension at normal ride height, the rubber bushing is twisted out of a relaxed position and it will tear before long.
Hey not sure if you will ever see this comment or if you maybe are doing alignments now because you have a wreck but if you are not maybe when people come in for work on suspension and steering you should sell them a alignment and basically whatever the company you go to churches just add on a fee for your time that way people don't leave and never get it done and screw their tires up it's a good way to make sure people get the work done and you add money in your pocket
Somebody tell me that the ratchet wrenches wouldn't have helped with that ball joint I personally don't own any but they are on my list too many times have I had to readjust a wrench over and over and over again when I could have just kept it on in Ratchet it those things are awesome
So I have a 2005 five hundred. Pretty sure I need this work done also. But my control arms are fine. Would it have been more work to just replace the bushing?
When you adjusted the alignment, did you loosen the jam nut on the tie rod end and turn the center section of the tie rod to change the distance/direction of the tire? Thank you
Hi I don't know how often or quickly you respond to these. I just ordered new control arm for Mercury Sable 2008 and this appears to be the same part. My question is that the bushing did not come placed on the part, can I just beat it on with a mallet or do I need to do something special to keep it from slipping off?
@Nick Miller I used a dead blow mallet. If you got a bench vise, you'll save yourself some heart ache. Put some dawn dish soap on the control arm end and the inside of the bushing, and have at it. Watch your depth, compared to the old one. I torqued everything down, according to specs. Except the bushing end. First, I lowered the car so it would be at ride height, then torqued it best I could while it was on the ground. Get some cardboard, or that cover in your trunk, to lay on. You may thank me later for that suggestion, lol.
I'm getting ready to do this job on my '05 Ford 500 so your video is a going to be very useful to me. One question maybe two, I noticed that you didn't apply any Locktite to any of the bolts, is that something that you saw as optional? Also, if you don't mind sharing, who was your source for parts and at what cost?
I have done enough to know the “feel” on this type of work. If it was a hub nut or head bolts, I’d use the torque wrench. So to answer you, yes, use a torque wrench.
@@Tomsfoolery. I'm goibg attempt inner, outer tie rods, and stabilizer w/ ball joints. Your video is a great help and probably would not attempt this task with out it. Do you know where I can find the correct torque specs?
Do you happen to know if the control arms for the FWD and the AWD are the same? I can't find moog in anything but AWD, but they look identical. I'm trying to avoid the chineseum junk.
They are not the same. The all-wheel drive version of the Ford 500 uses different lower control arms. I have yet to find anyone on the planet that provides instructions for doing this job on the all-wheel drive version
Im sure you found the answer but just in case... Jack up the front end and grab the top n bottom (12/6 clock) of the tire then push/pull listen, look, and feel for free play. You can even pry up on the tire with a prybar.
I have a question i did the same job on my 05 five hundred. MInus the tie rod ends. I also did the quick struts and sway bar links. My problem is on the driver's side the top of the ball joint stud is rubbing. Anybody know why?
I know it is a long shot on getting a timely answer here, since this is not a recent video. I only needed my outer tie rod replaced. When I did it, there was this silver metal cone looking thing in the cup between the end and the ball joint. It was flat on top and bottom. Mine cracked in half and half was missing and I dont know the part name to ask for. Currently have a nut and washer acting as the part, and it is fine, however I am wary of it shifting, so I would like the real part in there. If anyone could help me, I would be grateful. Thanks
Good video thanks! Only thing wish would of told about measuring wheels at start of video instead of at end of video...."if person doing a step by step with video would be to late on measuement"
Great video. I'm about to do this to my wife's Freestyle. Couple questions. What drills are you using, and do you think this job is possible without a lift?
You don't need a lift to do this job, but it helps. Jack the vehicle up and place it on jack stands. The cordless impact is a dewalt 1/2" drive. Lowes sells them. Thanks for watching and good luck on your vehicle!
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Best instructional video I have ever seen! The use of subtitles was much better than using audio, and the video was awesome (very clear, good angles). Kudos!
Thank you for the feedback!
Your video helped me to be confident enough to attempt my first suspension repair ever, ans it was a success. The only supplies I needed to buy were a 21mm wrench, a budget lower control arm and a jack stand. My buddy brought over a mallet, his floor jack, and his impact. Thank you so much.
Fantastic repair video! Good lighting, use of subtitles and a clear view of what he is doing! A lot of people doing repair videos should see this one.
Thanks!
This was a big help, thanks ts6034. For others, note that a 21mm open end wrench was needed for a the the tie rod and lower control arm nut near the brake disc.
Good information! Thanks for watching!
awesome video and the lack of music is a plus :)
Thanks! I’ll keep the lack of music in mind with future videos!
Thanks! Friend of mine did it for me and charged me $80 and took him 2-1/2 hours. Was a great video!!
Glad you mentioned opening the mounting points. When I first did a control arm some years back I almost beat the new control arm senseless trying to get it in. Behold I realize the mount pinches tight upon previous installation. Lol
It sure makes it go back together easier! I learned it the hard way years back lol
@@Tomsfoolery. yeah it does. That was my hard way. Should have added that note. took about a half hour to an hour swinging like a blacksmith. Lol
Thanks for making this video.
I know it's an old one, but thank you anyway.
Approximately how many hours would it take for an experienced repair shop to remove and replace the lower control arms with the ball joint and control arm bushing already installed and replaced the front struts on a Ford 500 thank you
Thank you so much for your awesome instructional video. You saved me from not spending so much money. Keep your videos coming because I will be watching.
Thanks for the feedback! I'll keep em coming
Thank You very much !! I just changed both sides today in my driveway. 2 hrs per side. Not that hard, changing the alternator was much harder.
Great end tip 👌 I grew up working on cars since I could remember and unlike most mechanics I always check ..heres a tip for you when working on a Chevy 2000 to 2009 when you replace pads or do breaks take the extra time to remove the caliper bracket ( 2 .18mm bolts) and lock tight the shit out of them I even take a chisle and dimple the threads to lock the bolts in place thats the famous wheel lock problem one or the other bolt works loose and out then the caliper hits rim and locks either in reverse or forward I had to drive gf 07 trailblazer 11 miles backwards home 😆 that was my sighn lmao
Thank you very much for this instructional video.i followed to the T helped alot. Knowing socket sizes i live in wi.so alot of salt around .i had to torch 1 bolt off.other than that your instructions were very useful.in fact was watching your video while doing changing my lower assembly.THANKS keep up the goid work.
What brand would you recommend? I was looking at Dorman and both the sway bar links, and the control arms are made in China. So I was kinda of iffy if I should buy this brand or not.
Thanks for making an easy to understand video. Best I've seen.
Thanks!
Great info.thank you very much .no bs straight to want needs to be done.
I just did the control arms on a Freestyle, all the same as the Montego/500. Rear vertical bolts torque specs are 73 lb ft., the big 4 in. bolt is 111 lb ft., and the ball joint is also 111. Wheel hub nut is 248 lb ft.
Thanks for that man! Great angles to see what u were doing
Thanks!
Thank you for making this informative video.
Thanks for watching!
I use a Mason string rap it around the car and use 4 pieces of scrap wood to get it close to alignment but I do like your idea way better thanks!!!!
Very, very, very, helpful video with almost idiot proof instruction and fantastic camerawork........
Thank you!
Fantastic video with great tips. Thanks so much!!!!
Great work
This is a great how to video for my Ford Flex has the same control arm, Thanks
Nice video. But unless you tighten that lower control arm bolt with suspension at normal ride height, the rubber bushing is twisted out of a relaxed position and it will tear before long.
💯 correct
dogman8436. Not true, it doesn't matter!
Dogman is correct. I made the same mistake and it twisted the bushings shortly after.
Very helpful. Thanks.
Man I took off all the disk and everything should of seen this first
That’s how we learn though. Nothing wrong with that!
Great job!
Hey not sure if you will ever see this comment or if you maybe are doing alignments now because you have a wreck but if you are not maybe when people come in for work on suspension and steering you should sell them a alignment and basically whatever the company you go to churches just add on a fee for your time that way people don't leave and never get it done and screw their tires up it's a good way to make sure people get the work done and you add money in your pocket
Great video!
Thanks!
Thank you!
Somebody tell me that the ratchet wrenches wouldn't have helped with that ball joint I personally don't own any but they are on my list too many times have I had to readjust a wrench over and over and over again when I could have just kept it on in Ratchet it those things are awesome
Merci (0: thank you Man (0: nice lift
Thanks! I've since moved into a bigger shop and bought a second two post lift. It's a 12k lb one. I think it's in some of my recent videos.
So I have a 2005 five hundred. Pretty sure I need this work done also. But my control arms are fine. Would it have been more work to just replace the bushing?
When you adjusted the alignment, did you loosen the jam nut on the tie rod end and turn the center section of the tie rod to change the distance/direction of the tire?
Thank you
Yes
Hi I don't know how often or quickly you respond to these. I just ordered new control arm for Mercury Sable 2008 and this appears to be the same part. My question is that the bushing did not come placed on the part, can I just beat it on with a mallet or do I need to do something special to keep it from slipping off?
To clarify I mean the silver piece with the bushing inside that pushes over the rectangular post at the end.
@Nick Miller I used a dead blow mallet. If you got a bench vise, you'll save yourself some heart ache.
Put some dawn dish soap on the control arm end and the inside of the bushing, and have at it.
Watch your depth, compared to the old one. I torqued everything down, according to specs. Except the bushing end.
First, I lowered the car so it would be at ride height, then torqued it best I could while it was on the ground.
Get some cardboard, or that cover in your trunk, to lay on. You may thank me later for that suggestion, lol.
No need to preload these bushing bolts correct? More specifically the front bushing?
I'm getting ready to do this job on my '05 Ford 500 so your video is a going to be very useful to me. One question maybe two, I noticed that you didn't apply any Locktite to any of the bolts, is that something that you saw as optional? Also, if you don't mind sharing, who was your source for parts and at what cost?
Very well done video!
Is there some preventitive maintenance that would have saved you from replacing these parts ? Thank you
No. Even if you never drove the car they will need to be replaced eventually
Was this a front wheel drive car or a all wheel drive? Also where did you get the parts.
Can you tell me the brand and model of that cordless ratchet? I need one of those! Great video!
Ts6034
Great video! Thanks for sharing! How long did the job take? I am 78 years young but after watching your video I believe I Can do it! 😎
You can do it!! The video is a much shorter version of the job. I believe it tool about an hour and a half.
I'm 70 and disabled, and I did same R&R on a '06 Mercury Montego. Took awhile.
I noticed you did not use torque wrench. Should I be torquing any of these nuts/bolts to specifications or no?
I have done enough to know the “feel” on this type of work. If it was a hub nut or head bolts, I’d use the torque wrench. So to answer you, yes, use a torque wrench.
@@Tomsfoolery. I'm goibg attempt inner, outer tie rods, and stabilizer w/ ball joints. Your video is a great help and probably would not attempt this task with out it. Do you know where I can find the correct torque specs?
Do you happen to know if the control arms for the FWD and the AWD are the same? I can't find moog in anything but AWD, but they look identical. I'm trying to avoid the chineseum junk.
They are not the same. The all-wheel drive version of the Ford 500 uses different lower control arms. I have yet to find anyone on the planet that provides instructions for doing this job on the all-wheel drive version
Great video. But how you know the control arm ball joints are bad to replace?
Thanks
Im sure you found the answer but just in case...
Jack up the front end and grab the top n bottom (12/6 clock) of the tire then push/pull listen, look, and feel for free play. You can even pry up on the tire with a prybar.
@@rmark1083 Thank you for your advice
I have a question i did the same job on my 05 five hundred. MInus the tie rod ends. I also did the quick struts and sway bar links. My problem is on the driver's side the top of the ball joint stud is rubbing. Anybody know why?
Did the control arm came in one piece or 2 separate pieces
I know it is a long shot on getting a timely answer here, since this is not a recent video. I only needed my outer tie rod replaced. When I did it, there was this silver metal cone looking thing in the cup between the end and the ball joint. It was flat on top and bottom. Mine cracked in half and half was missing and I dont know the part name to ask for. Currently have a nut and washer acting as the part, and it is fine, however I am wary of it shifting, so I would like the real part in there. If anyone could help me, I would be grateful. Thanks
Good video thanks! Only thing wish would of told about measuring wheels at start of video instead of at end of video...."if person doing a step by step with video would be to late on measuement"
Badass☆☆☆☆☆
Does the control arm have anything to do with the car going slow? I have the same car
check the throttle body maybe needs cleaned
Great video. I'm about to do this to my wife's Freestyle. Couple questions. What drills are you using, and do you think this job is possible without a lift?
You don't need a lift to do this job, but it helps. Jack the vehicle up and place it on jack stands. The cordless impact is a dewalt 1/2" drive. Lowes sells them. Thanks for watching and good luck on your vehicle!
ts6034 Thank you!
Did my freestyle lower control arms struts strut mounts and sway bar links. With Jack stands.
Don't even need to remove the tie rod I did it without taking anything off other than the wheel.
What is the mileage on that car?
You the GOAT
Thanks!
Dam these cars front ends are garbage