Excellent explanation .I'm going to do a blown plaster area 150mm sq plus crack following paper removal a few months ago very thin plaster previously done originally.
Nice work there Des. I like using Easi-fill for this sort of stuff too, leaves a nice finish and can be sanded too. Easy to to store to and a little finer than bonding. Each way has its advantages!
Hi ZM. Thank you again for your worthwhile posts and your valuable contributions. I'm aware of this stuff although I've never actually used it myself. Not sure whether it would be suitable for repairing such deep holes though and it is of course a 2 coat system - unlike the Bonding plaster which can be applied in 1 coat and very thick. From what I gather though, as you say it is finer and smoother than Bonding and is probably easier to sand down. Like you say - advantages and disadvantages to both. Take care my friend, Des
I advise next time to have a sponge w/ clean water on hand. Always clean up your woodwork and the stains on the walls. Makes it look 100% better if its nice and tidy, plus it saves you having to sand it down.
This has given me some confidence to fill a huge crack which the old owners badly filled, i think it was a tree root that hit the wall and caused a crack, but when i stripped off the god awful thick wallpaper, all of the filler fell out, I have brushed out all the loose dusty stuff and at its widest its about 4 inches, so hoping your way will help. I think I shall put some PVA inside the crack too, just to help with adhesion. I am a lady, but hell, I enjoy doing this type of stuff.!!
Hello there and thanks very much for watching. The fact that you are a female is absolutely irrelevant! Just a state of mind that's all. You definitely need to PVA the inside of the crack before filling with any plaster. If you don't the surface will be dusty, the plaster won't stick and it will suck out the moisture from the new plaster.In short, it will fall out! It's always worth having a bag of plaster like Thistle Bonding in the garage as it can be used for a multitude of puyrposes. Standard bags are 25kgs which is quite large and heavy but some store do smaller bags. Check on-line first. If you follow the steps in my vid it will work out fine. You can do it. Good luck and well done for having the courage to have a go. ATB, Des
Hi bud, great video.. I’ve attempted to plaster a wall in the conservatory , it was quite warm when I did it and I may have applied the plaster too thinly, subsequently I have crazed cracking all over the wall . Any tips what to do next as removing all the plaster will be a task.? Thanks rich
Hiya buddy. The reason the plaster has cracked like that is because you have not properly controlled the suction on the wall. Therefore, the plaster/bricks/blocks has acted like a sponge and sucked the moisture out of the new plaster which you have applied. I would always recommend applying a good couple of coat of PVA before plastering. The new plaster should be applied when the PVA goes tacky. What was the consistency of the plaster? Also, if the environment was very warm you have less time to work with the plaster before it starts to set. The way forward? If the cracked plaster is stable on the wall then you can simply apply 2 coats of PVA and skim again. However, if the cracked plaster has not adhered properly to the wall then I'm afraid you will need to remove any that is not stable and secure. There is no point plastering over an unstable background as the plaster will simply come away at a future date. BTW, I'm assuming you were skimming the wall? Get back to me with any more queries mate. Des
21st Century Caveman . It was quite warm in there as you said I think it dried to quickly .. it’s more like webbing . I will take your advice and twice Pva and re skim on a cooler day ( won’t have to wait long) ! Thank you coming back to me yam a star 👍🏌️♂️
Nice job and great video. What I would say to prevent this from happening again is just be mindful of the modern materials you are using. My house was built in the 30's on a hill top. The materials used for the build were brick, lime mortar and then inside it was lath lime plastered. All of these materials were used because the house would have some natural movement in it(being on a hill top) and lime as a material allows for a certain degree of movement(quite a lot actually). Over the years (through no-ones fault) modern materials started to be used on these homes such as cement mortar and gypsum plaster(faster to mix and cheaper) however gypsum and cement set rigid with very little to no movement..... You can guess what's coming next can't you?....... If you apply something rigid onto something that should be flexible then the rigid stuff will crack. Just before we bought the house the owner had it re-plastered and all they did was apply a gypsum skim coat on top of the lime lath plaster... However... I now have hairline cracks all over the walls. My solution: I have been gradually going over these hairline cracks with a homemade lime putty plaster(takes forever) filling in the hairline cracks which has worked so far. Very easy to mix yourself as well and good value for money and can be applied at just about any depth so is good for filling etc. If you do happen to use this stuff however do no over work it... get it on the wall smooth once and leave it to dry and then sand. The only reason I have said this(and i could be wrong) is because when you started to remove the plaster in the video the backing plaster look suspiciously like lime undercoat plaster and when you had the windows fitted they just applied a quick one coat skim plaster.
Hello there and thanks for your thoughtful and detailed comments. I've actually only been in the property for about 4yrs and the windows were fitted by the previous owner. They're not very good quality (in fact they're pretty crap to be honest) and were obviously fitted on the cheap. I think much of the issue here is that the plaster was damaged when the windows were fitted and the old ones removed. The plaster has been there for @ 80 yrs and it becomes unstable and fragile.If you've ever seen older windows get ripped out it can cause a lot of damage to internal plaster work and the plaster and lath probably suffers the worst. That said, you are absolutely right about movement in older properties, the attributes of lime mortar and your comments about the limitations of modern gypsum plaster products. By way of an update, since this repair was done there are no cracks at all (fine or otherwise) in the plaster and the paint is still on the wall (thankfully!). I appreciate you checking out my vids and for taking the time to provide your valuable feedback. Best wishes, Des
I too, just recently purchased a home stateside in US. I cannot obtain any info from my local handy supply about plaster. I thought it best to cut out every miniscule crack to matter how light with a razor, the v channel with a five in one. Ready made drywall mud, resulted in 5 coats to fill. That's with a Elmer's glue and water mix spritz prior. I am going to try 20 min mix, and have just started with Durham's water bod for some large cracks. This house in brick exterior and brick interior. No wood lathe. I done the dining room with previous, and no further cracks. They call it the fortress where I live as all the materials composed. It holds a temperature of three degree difference after turning off the air for 12 hours. I'd like more info, on what you speak lime mix.
I have a section of plaster on my wall that's really damaged, worse than the condition of the plaster in this video, even the sandy stuff is crumbling bad, is it okay for me to cut out that whole section and replace it with a board of dry wall? Thank you.
Thanks for the excellent video. I have a question about my wall damage. When hanging a door the plaster came off in places (about 1cm depth) leaving a hole about 5cm big. Underneath is brick which is quite dusty and flaky. I take it I should apply PVA but what consistency should it be? Mixed with water and brushed on? How many coats? Thank you!
Hello there. First brush out or vacuum area. Yes - mix up some PVA to consistency of milk and apply. A couple of coats will do. Apply plaster when 2nd coat of PVA goes tacky. Will work a treat my friend. Good luck! Des
Would you not use bonding on a brick wall then multi finish over it? If not what plaster would you use on a standard brick wall? (Ik it's not completely related to the video but advice would be much appreciated)
Hello there. Yes, Bonding plaster is great for brick walls and blocks, etc. In fact, it sticks pretty much to anything which is why it's great for low suction backgrounds with little key. It is a light weight backing coat and, yes again, it would normally be skimmed with something like multi-finish. However, for a small job like this for your average DIY'er it can be worked with a wet brush and a wet trowel to give a smooth'ish surface which can be painted, papered, etc. If it's the only plaster in the shed - go for it rather than buying another big bag of plaster (e.g. M-F) which you might not need or will waste. Bonding is also easy to use and a lot less effort than say sand and cement. Some plasterers prefer to use s and c in bathrooms for example (due to damp, humid environments) but I've never had a problem with Bonding plaster which has either been tiled or treated with proper bathroom paint. Any other Q's - please feel free to ask my friend. Best wishes, Des
dont waste time with a stanley knife, use a multi tool many times faster plus you can key the surface with it for better bonding. and use the trowel the right way round.
PVA controls the suction on the wall and prevents the older dry plaster sucking the moisture out of the new plaster. It also helps to seal the wall again dust and debris, etc. ATB, Des
The beauty of Bonding is that it can be used on virtually anything. Reason? Because it's a very sticky plaster and can be put on in a thick layer to a smoother surface with little or no suction to draw it into the wall and anchor it there. However, depending on the job you're doing you may need to PVA the wall or area first if the suction is very high. Different types of blocks have different porosity which equates to different levels of suction. Bonding is used all the time on breeze blocks and bricks and is absolutely perfect for it. Think about it for a moment ......... if Bonding plaster has been designed particularly for smoother, low suction walls then surely it will stick to rougher, higher suction walls even better? If it can be used effectively on the more difficult surfaces mentioned above then it will stick even better to normal ones. You're good to go. Des
Thanks very much my friend. It may not be perfect but I think it's pretty decent for amateur job even though I say it myself. Thanks for watching and have a very pleasant weekend where you are. Best wishes, Des
Yes it can but there are finer plasters out there such as Gyproc Easi Fill which will sand better. However, you can't use it to fill deeper holes and gaps like the Bonding plaster and it needs to be built up in layers. Best wishes, Des
Hello there and thanks for watching. I just normally mix it up so it has the consistency of milk. However, it can be a bit thinner. If PVA'd areas go tacky very quickly you will need to apply another good coat as this indicates the wall is very dry and will absorb moisture from the new plaster and dry it out and possibly crack it. ATB
Hi there buddy. This stuff comes highly recommended from many sources. I need to try it myself sometime. Will it fill deep cavities like these though or does it need to be built up in layers? Thanks for watching Have a great weekend. Des
Waste of money easi fill and way too messy. Nothing wrong with a bag of bonding for a quarter of the price. The way you done it is quicker than easi fill. DO it the council way next time and mix in some milti finish with the bonding you will get a smooth finish. i didnt tell you that though
Hi there. I'm well aware that Bonding is not supposed to be a finishing plaster. However, the fact is that if it is the only plaster you've got it can be trowelled up and look pretty decent. ATB, Des
Hello there. Easifill would be easier to work and give a smoother finish and, of course, you can sand it. However, you would not be able to fill deep cracks in one go because the product is not strong enough. You would therefore need to build it up in layers according to depth. It's a great product though and I've used it a lot myself. Stay safe and well, Des
It seems that almost everywhere but the UK, the finish coat is white, so people assume that anything brown or pink is not ready for paint. I'd say that if you can't see the difference once it's painted and it doesn't crack, the job is done.
What the actual fuck im a plasterer general builder have been for years let me talk you through something. Bonding.. hardwall and browning are all undercoates... multifinish and boardfinish are a finishing plaster you don't polish up a undercoat basecoat
Hi there. With respect, it may well be the case that you're a plasterer and general builder and have been 'for years'. I'm also well aware that Bonding, Hardwall and Browning are all undercoats, etc, etc. I'm also well aware that most plasterers would normally apply the backing coat, recess into the gap and then finish off with Multifinish for example. So that's that out of the way. However, like it or not, Bonding can be polished and it is possible to obtain a decent finish by doing so and I've done it loads of times with good results and no subsequent problems. Open your mind. If that's all you're left with or you're a DIY'er who just wants to stick a small bag of plaster in the shed which will cover a multitude of tasks, this is worth having.
Superb bit of help for us amateurs, thanks for taking the time to post this.
My pleasure. Hope it helped my friend. Best wishes, Des
Well done! I like that you show all the realistic steps, not some summary version that makes it look simple.
Glad it was helpful! Best wishes, Des
Thanks for the video. Very helpful to see the technique of applying the plaster.
You're very welcome. Des
Excellent explanation .I'm going to do a blown plaster area 150mm sq plus crack following paper removal a few months ago very thin plaster previously done originally.
Glad it was helpful! ATB, Des
Leave the guy alone. He did a good job.
You tell 'em buddy Thanks for the support! Appreciated my friend. Best wishes, Des
Nice work there Des. I like using Easi-fill for this sort of stuff too, leaves a nice finish and can be sanded too. Easy to to store to and a little finer than bonding. Each way has its advantages!
Hi ZM. Thank you again for your worthwhile posts and your valuable contributions. I'm aware of this stuff although I've never actually used it myself. Not sure whether it would be suitable for repairing such deep holes though and it is of course a 2 coat system - unlike the Bonding plaster which can be applied in 1 coat and very thick. From what I gather though, as you say it is finer and smoother than Bonding and is probably easier to sand down. Like you say - advantages and disadvantages to both. Take care my friend, Des
Good video & straight to the point.
Good job too pal.
Thanks very much buddy. It worked a treat.# and looked fine after painting. ATB, Des
I advise next time to have a sponge w/ clean water on hand. Always clean up your woodwork and the stains on the walls. Makes it look 100% better if its nice and tidy, plus it saves you having to sand it down.
Sound advice that my friend. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. ATB, Des
This has given me some confidence to fill a huge crack which the old owners badly filled, i think it was a tree root that hit the wall and caused a crack, but when i stripped off the god awful thick wallpaper, all of the filler fell out, I have brushed out all the loose dusty stuff and at its widest its about 4 inches, so hoping your way will help. I think I shall put some PVA inside the crack too, just to help with adhesion. I am a lady, but hell, I enjoy doing this type of stuff.!!
Hello there and thanks very much for watching. The fact that you are a female is absolutely irrelevant! Just a state of mind that's all. You definitely need to PVA the inside of the crack before filling with any plaster. If you don't the surface will be dusty, the plaster won't stick and it will suck out the moisture from the new plaster.In short, it will fall out! It's always worth having a bag of plaster like Thistle Bonding in the garage as it can be used for a multitude of puyrposes. Standard bags are 25kgs which is quite large and heavy but some store do smaller bags. Check on-line first. If you follow the steps in my vid it will work out fine. You can do it. Good luck and well done for having the courage to have a go. ATB, Des
Hi bud, great video.. I’ve attempted to plaster a wall in the conservatory , it was quite warm when I did it and I may have applied the plaster too thinly, subsequently I have crazed cracking all over the wall . Any tips what to do next as removing all the plaster will be a task.?
Thanks rich
Hiya buddy. The reason the plaster has cracked like that is because you have not properly controlled the suction on the wall. Therefore, the plaster/bricks/blocks has acted like a sponge and sucked the moisture out of the new plaster which you have applied. I would always recommend applying a good couple of coat of PVA before plastering. The new plaster should be applied when the PVA goes tacky. What was the consistency of the plaster? Also, if the environment was very warm you have less time to work with the plaster before it starts to set. The way forward? If the cracked plaster is stable on the wall then you can simply apply 2 coats of PVA and skim again. However, if the cracked plaster has not adhered properly to the wall then I'm afraid you will need to remove any that is not stable and secure. There is no point plastering over an unstable background as the plaster will simply come away at a future date. BTW, I'm assuming you were skimming the wall? Get back to me with any more queries mate. Des
21st Century Caveman . It was quite warm in there as you said I think it dried to quickly .. it’s more like webbing . I will take your advice and twice Pva and re skim on a cooler day ( won’t have to wait long) ! Thank you coming back to me yam a star 👍🏌️♂️
My pleasure mate. ATB, Des
@@richmalin1890 Here's a tip for you Rich..Stop being a tight arse and get a professional to do it properly
Great skill. I’ll give it ago but I think it’s going to end in tears for me.
You won't knolw unless you try buddy. Give it a go - you may need a little practice but it's really not that difficult. Good luck buddy, Des
Nice job and great video. What I would say to prevent this from happening again is just be mindful of the modern materials you are using. My house was built in the 30's on a hill top. The materials used for the build were brick, lime mortar and then inside it was lath lime plastered. All of these materials were used because the house would have some natural movement in it(being on a hill top) and lime as a material allows for a certain degree of movement(quite a lot actually). Over the years (through no-ones fault) modern materials started to be used on these homes such as cement mortar and gypsum plaster(faster to mix and cheaper) however gypsum and cement set rigid with very little to no movement..... You can guess what's coming next can't you?....... If you apply something rigid onto something that should be flexible then the rigid stuff will crack.
Just before we bought the house the owner had it re-plastered and all they did was apply a gypsum skim coat on top of the lime lath plaster... However... I now have hairline cracks all over the walls.
My solution:
I have been gradually going over these hairline cracks with a homemade lime putty plaster(takes forever) filling in the hairline cracks which has worked so far. Very easy to mix yourself as well and good value for money and can be applied at just about any depth so is good for filling etc. If you do happen to use this stuff however do no over work it... get it on the wall smooth once and leave it to dry and then sand.
The only reason I have said this(and i could be wrong) is because when you started to remove the plaster in the video the backing plaster look suspiciously like lime undercoat plaster and when you had the windows fitted they just applied a quick one coat skim plaster.
Hello there and thanks for your thoughtful and detailed comments. I've actually only been in the property for about 4yrs and the windows were fitted by the previous owner. They're not very good quality (in fact they're pretty crap to be honest) and were obviously fitted on the cheap. I think much of the issue here is that the plaster was damaged when the windows were fitted and the old ones removed. The plaster has been there for @ 80 yrs and it becomes unstable and fragile.If you've ever seen older windows get ripped out it can cause a lot of damage to internal plaster work and the plaster and lath probably suffers the worst. That said, you are absolutely right about movement in older properties, the attributes of lime mortar and your comments about the limitations of modern gypsum plaster products. By way of an update, since this repair was done there are no cracks at all (fine or otherwise) in the plaster and the paint is still on the wall (thankfully!). I appreciate you checking out my vids and for taking the time to provide your valuable feedback. Best wishes, Des
i realize Im pretty randomly asking but does anybody know a good website to stream newly released tv shows online?
I too, just recently purchased a home stateside in US. I cannot obtain any info from my local handy supply about plaster. I thought it best to cut out every miniscule crack to matter how light with a razor, the v channel with a five in one. Ready made drywall mud, resulted in 5 coats to fill. That's with a Elmer's glue and water mix spritz prior. I am going to try 20 min mix, and have just started with Durham's water bod for some large cracks. This house in brick exterior and brick interior. No wood lathe. I done the dining room with previous, and no further cracks. They call it the fortress where I live as all the materials composed. It holds a temperature of three degree difference after turning off the air for 12 hours. I'd like more info, on what you speak lime mix.
I have a section of plaster on my wall that's really damaged, worse than the condition of the plaster in this video, even the sandy stuff is crumbling bad, is it okay for me to cut out that whole section and replace it with a board of dry wall? Thank you.
Yes, absolutely. Just make sure you PVA all cut sides to seal them. That'll work fine. Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 thank you very much for your response
Brilliant job 👌
Thank you! Cheers! Des
Thanks for the excellent video. I have a question about my wall damage. When hanging a door the plaster came off in places (about 1cm depth) leaving a hole about 5cm big. Underneath is brick which is quite dusty and flaky. I take it I should apply PVA but what consistency should it be? Mixed with water and brushed on? How many coats?
Thank you!
Hello there. First brush out or vacuum area. Yes - mix up some PVA to consistency of milk and apply. A couple of coats will do. Apply plaster when 2nd coat of PVA goes tacky. Will work a treat my friend. Good luck! Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 thank you for taking the time to give some advice. I bought some pva so will try it soon
Great tips!
Thank you for sharing dear!
You are so welcome! Des
Would you not use bonding on a brick wall then multi finish over it? If not what plaster would you use on a standard brick wall? (Ik it's not completely related to the video but advice would be much appreciated)
Hello there. Yes, Bonding plaster is great for brick walls and blocks, etc. In fact, it sticks pretty much to anything which is why it's great for low suction backgrounds with little key. It is a light weight backing coat and, yes again, it would normally be skimmed with something like multi-finish. However, for a small job like this for your average DIY'er it can be worked with a wet brush and a wet trowel to give a smooth'ish surface which can be painted, papered, etc. If it's the only plaster in the shed - go for it rather than buying another big bag of plaster (e.g. M-F) which you might not need or will waste. Bonding is also easy to use and a lot less effort than say sand and cement. Some plasterers prefer to use s and c in bathrooms for example (due to damp, humid environments) but I've never had a problem with Bonding plaster which has either been tiled or treated with proper bathroom paint. Any other Q's - please feel free to ask my friend. Best wishes, Des
Thanks a lot for the feedback des, much appreciated.
Keep up the good work
No worries. My pleasure!
Don't you have to skim over the top of the bonding?
That is the normal scenario. However, if Bonding is the only plaster you've got then it'll do just fine. ATB, Des
dont waste time with a stanley knife, use a multi tool many times faster plus you can key the surface with it for better bonding. and use the trowel the right way round.
What's the purpose of the pva first? Nobody ever says why they use it!
PVA controls the suction on the wall and prevents the older dry plaster sucking the moisture out of the new plaster. It also helps to seal the wall again dust and debris, etc. ATB, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 thanks Des. I'll go put it on now, then.🙂
Can we use bonding on breeze blocks?
Absolutely perfect for breeze blocks. Do it. Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33I thought bonding shouldn't be used for high suction walls such a blocks and bticks as they have a high suction?
The beauty of Bonding is that it can be used on virtually anything. Reason? Because it's a very sticky plaster and can be put on in a thick layer to a smoother surface with little or no suction to draw it into the wall and anchor it there. However, depending on the job you're doing you may need to PVA the wall or area first if the suction is very high. Different types of blocks have different porosity which equates to different levels of suction. Bonding is used all the time on breeze blocks and bricks and is absolutely perfect for it. Think about it for a moment ......... if Bonding plaster has been designed particularly for smoother, low suction walls then surely it will stick to rougher, higher suction walls even better? If it can be used effectively on the more difficult surfaces mentioned above then it will stick even better to normal ones. You're good to go. Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 ah I see your point. So would thermal breeze blocks be fine if I was to pva the wall beforehand? Thanks Des
Sure.
Ignore the haters my friend that's a good and sound fix
Thanks very much my friend. It may not be perfect but I think it's pretty decent for amateur job even though I say it myself. Thanks for watching and have a very pleasant weekend where you are. Best wishes, Des
Just what I needed 👍👍👍
Hope it helps my friend. ATB, Des
Nice job mate
Thank you very much Sir! Best wishes, Des
Can that plaster be sanded at all if need be?
Yes it can but there are finer plasters out there such as Gyproc Easi Fill which will sand better. However, you can't use it to fill deeper holes and gaps like the Bonding plaster and it needs to be built up in layers. Best wishes, Des
Thank you for sharing!
My pleasure. Thank you for watching! Des
What mix pva do you use to seal the wall.
Hello there and thanks for watching. I just normally mix it up so it has the consistency of milk. However, it can be a bit thinner. If PVA'd areas go tacky very quickly you will need to apply another good coat as this indicates the wall is very dry and will absorb moisture from the new plaster and dry it out and possibly crack it. ATB
That's a great idea that my friend. Thanks for the helpful tip. ATB, Des
What about a finish plaster on top? Not needed??
Hi there. No, not needed. It won't be as smooth as a finish plaster but once it's been painted up you won't know the difference. Atb, Des
I prefer using Gyproc Easi-fill as its sandable & very easy to work
Hi there buddy. This stuff comes highly recommended from many sources. I need to try it myself sometime. Will it fill deep cavities like these though or does it need to be built up in layers? Thanks for watching Have a great weekend. Des
If the damage is deep, easy-fill needs 2 layers as it shrinks a little. The other big advantage is it comes in 20, 45 or 90 minute working times.
Waste of money easi fill and way too messy. Nothing wrong with a bag of bonding for a quarter of the price.
The way you done it is quicker than easi fill. DO it the council way next time and mix in some milti finish with the bonding you will get a smooth finish. i didnt tell you that though
aaaaalllss is that a 50/50 bonding MF mix? Can it do 15 - 20mm deep on one fill?
@@aaaaalllss what's multi finish?
First class 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks 👍
Fairly rubbish!! Bonding is not a finishing plaster you are supposed to apply a finish over the top lol not trowel the bonding up
Hi there. I'm well aware that Bonding is not supposed to be a finishing plaster. However, the fact is that if it is the only plaster you've got it can be trowelled up and look pretty decent. ATB, Des
In my opinion Easy Fill would make the job much easier.
Hello there. Easifill would be easier to work and give a smoother finish and, of course, you can sand it. However, you would not be able to fill deep cracks in one go because the product is not strong enough. You would therefore need to build it up in layers according to depth. It's a great product though and I've used it a lot myself. Stay safe and well, Des
Guess they prefer to clean hard plaster off sill & trim than cover with a little plastic/tape
Hello there and thanks for watching. Yes, taping the sills would be a good idea and reduce clean up. Thank you. ATB, Des
Bit of a mess, but you have to learn somehow
No white coat?
Hello there. Sorry, I don't know what you mean. Please explain. Thank you, Des
It seems that almost everywhere but the UK, the finish coat is white, so people assume that anything brown or pink is not ready for paint. I'd say that if you can't see the difference once it's painted and it doesn't crack, the job is done.
Marshal town trowels are fucking awesome don’t ever diss them. They are capable of a perfect finish, bonding isn’t 😉
Yes they are good for sure, but only in skilled hands of course. Des
Not perfect but okay I would of used different technique
Fair enough. Des
What the actual fuck im a plasterer general builder have been for years let me talk you through something. Bonding.. hardwall and browning are all undercoates... multifinish and boardfinish are a finishing plaster you don't polish up a undercoat basecoat
Hi there. With respect, it may well be the case that you're a plasterer and general builder and have been 'for years'. I'm also well aware that Bonding, Hardwall and Browning are all undercoats, etc, etc. I'm also well aware that most plasterers would normally apply the backing coat, recess into the gap and then finish off with Multifinish for example. So that's that out of the way. However, like it or not, Bonding can be polished and it is possible to obtain a decent finish by doing so and I've done it loads of times with good results and no subsequent problems. Open your mind. If that's all you're left with or you're a DIY'er who just wants to stick a small bag of plaster in the shed which will cover a multitude of tasks, this is worth having.
He would be a laugh on site
You made a right balls out of that angle🤦♂️