Thanks. I don't know about that. Yesterday I did a search on YouTUbe "Singer 221 Featherweight" and there are too many videos to count. An incredibly popular model. I have had so many requests to do a series on it that when I was able to buy this one I figured it was time. I'm just doing the basics now and keep looking at the wiring mess and wondering what I'll do about it. I'm hoping for inspiration soon. I'm glad you're watching it. Take Care.
I will highly put you in my link once I startup. If u dont mind, let me know if you do. You are very detail anyone should understand even a kindergarden. I got up this morning (left it alone yesterday) at 2:00am EST. GOT ON MY PHONE AND YOUR POPPED UP ON MY FEED OF UTUBE. THANK YOU.
I do allow embedding on other peoples websites, so feel free. 👍Sometimes folks just want to share something with their audience so it's all good. I have 550+ videos on my PLAYLIST page sorted by model number so if you have other issues with a Featherweight, or another model, I may have some videos for it that can help. Here is the PLAYLIST PAGE: th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists Thanks for watching my channel and take care.
Beautifully explained and easy to follow, I just about gave up trying to adjust my bar, after watching this, I was able to get it unstuck, cleaned and now it works, thank you
I'm glad you found the video, Diane. Your nice comment made my day so I guess we are even 👍 BTW, I have 25 more videos for the Featherweight Model if you have more issues or want to learn a little more about your machine th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIA1OPw0k6QOSTE-wAUZ4kp.html Thanks for visiting and take care.
I would like one of those gages. I use Height Gages made by Whiteside. Part #9800. Woodcraft #144932. The original finish on these machines is Shellac. Kerosene will not hurt the finish. I actually submerged a frozen machine in kerosene for a few weeks. I removed all electrics first. The finish was not hurt at all and the machine freed up. Kerosene does not clean as well as your Krud Kutter but it will free everything. A complete dismantle and cleaning is the best for internal parts. The Presser Bar Lever Hinge Pin is a tapered pin. Drive it out from the inside toward where the faceplate mounts, using a 3/32'' drift. It drives out and in easily but will take a strong hit in the beginning
Thank you for the info regarding kerosene. I was told by a retired Singer man that it could be used to free-up the bearing and so forth. I'm glad I did not attempt the pin removal; I was think it went the other way from looking at the end of the pin. Thank you. If you'd care to send email to andymanuals53@gmail.com I can forward your request about the guage to the maker so he can contact you. I am asking him if he wants me to just give his email out, but I think he is hesitant for that. We'll see.
Nola A I mentioned in another comment that it looks like alcohol spilled a little around the top needle bar bushing where I put the brush in. I see fading on the finish there. It may have been something else but I suspect the alcohol. Lesson learned. 🙁
Krud Kutter ought to at least send you a case of product!! I know we won't hold our breath, but you really do showcase their product!! I "super glued" my 4 quarters together & they stay in my sewing machine toolkit. Very handy, indeed!!!
Man I love that stuff. If you only knew how much alcohol and Q-tips I went through before, haha. Great Idea of gluing the quarters. Wonder why I did not think of it so they don't slide around. Nice. Thanks for watching and take care,.
I can't even get Krud Kutter in New Zealand :-( And the company that makes it has other products on sale here but hasn't told me (I asked) if an equivalent here is sold with a different name (a bit how the same car model can have a different name in different countries). (If anyone can tell me the active ingredients in it I'd be so grateful!) It takes me hours and hours to do what Andy does in next-to-no-time with Krud Kutter. I so, so wish I could get it here! And yes I agree - they should send him at least a case, you can't buy the kind of advertising that is a satisfied customer demonstrating your product many times with genuine enthusiasm and showing off the lovely results. :-D
@@meganmills6545 I'm surprised Rust-oleum does not sell it there. Maybe it's an environmental thing? I have a fellow who wrote that he can not get it in South America, but uses a product called LA's Totally Awesome which is found in Dollar Stores here in the US. I don't know how it gets to South America, but he buys it at a local hardware store. He said it works just like the KK and costs the same. Another product I tried was OIL EATER after a viewer sent me some. It worked well but I stuck with the KK. Here is a video I made to compare it. I think it is sold on eBay.au th-cam.com/video/7MvDF-1Iu3U/w-d-xo.html
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi Andy - I was surprised too because their brand has a long-standing presence here. Thank you for the alternative to look into, I'm going to watch your "compare" video right now.
I don't know the cost there, but it may be worth looking into. BTW, I read a news story today that a, um... Rancher? Sheep owner? is using a robotic dog to herd sheep! www.theguardian.com/technology/video/2020/may/22/how-a-robotic-dog-is-herding-sheep-new-zealand-video Who knew we would see that? 👀 Forward-thinking in New Zealand!
I think most of Singer's black machines had japanned paint, then the decals applied, then a shellac coating. If the Featherweight has the same (I suspect it does) then I know that alcohol and spirits (like methylated spirits) start to dissolve it almost instantly. Very wise to protect the finish with the trash bag or similar just to be on the safe-side if ever using something you're unsure of around the finish. :-D Lovely vid, as usual, thank you Andy!
Thanks for the info. I looked just now at the top of the nose where I scrubbed the bushing with alcohol. Sure enough some spilled around the top of the bushing. There is discoloration and fading there. It may have been there before but I suspect it is from the alcohol. Thanks for watching, Megan. Take Care.
I have learned so much from your videos thank you for sharing all your knowledge. Now I am looking forward to learning all about my new to me featherweight.
Congratulations! Lala is the first featherweight I've ever owned. It's a learn-as-I-go situation. It's a great little machine so far, and I see why everyone loves them. Hope you will too and thanks for watching my channel.
I will be following ALL of you videos. You are a very thorough sewing machinest in my opinion. I sent a few comments to you but not received comments yet so I know you are VERY busy. Again, very thorough and imformative video. I will use your hints and tips. Thanks Andy. Belinda
Hi, Belinda. Thanks for watching my videos. I just checked my comments folder and this is the only one listed so I don't know what happened. YT won't let you post hot links to my channel so if you had a linkt to an online page maybe that is why.
Even though I don't have this particular Singer, I love watching and learning about these old machines. Just a suggestion. When you bring something close to the camera to see closer up, the camera is still focused on the machine itself and the close up is fuzzy. If you put your hand behind the object the camera will focus on your hand and not the machine, and the close up will be more in focus.
Thanks for the tip. I keep fooling with the focus range settings on the camera and thought I had it set correctly. I try to do better. Thanks for watching.
This helped me a lot. I have a 222K (230-250 volts) and the foot lifter sticks a little towards the last bit when you lift it. Now I can see exactly how it is put together and I suspect there might be some gunkc - the rest of the machine I already did and she sews like a dream now. The 222 is so tight because there is even less space than in the 221 due to the narrow free arm. I shall check the lifter tomorrow and see if that fixes the problem. The lacquer used on the Featherweight is shellac and that is damaged by spirits (denatured alcohol). I would buy that tool!!!
I've never seen the 22K1 in person; only pictures and the manuals. I have worked on a tubular bed (free-arm) model and I know what you mean about tight. Hopefully, you will find what is causing the sticky lifter. Good Luck.
Thank you again, Andy! I just got a FW that is missing the releasing lever! I'm feeling more confident about being able to put one back on after seeing your video.
Sure you can do it, Kim. No worries 😊 Think of all the thread and fabric you can buy with the money you save by doing it yourself! Thanks for watching my channel and taking the time to comment. Good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you! Quick question - I replaced the presser bar release lever/spring correctly but it isn't quite hitting the tension pin. Any ideas on what to try next? When I compare this machine to another FW, the tension pin seems out about the same distance. The levers look the same. I'm thinking of removing a lever from another machine to rule that new part out as the issue. The lifter on the back seems like it still has a little play at the top where it could go higher. Any suggestions for what to try next?
@@kimlane5961 SInger models 221 use two different release levers depending on the model. I'd guess you have the wrong one. Part 45764 seems to be the most common part number, but 221K models and a couple others use Part 45909. The part number should be clearly stamped into the part. Look for the one you do not have now. You can go here to see what I'm talking about. Be sure to read the description closely: singer-featherweight.com/products/releasing-lever-and-spring-singer-featherweight-vintage-original?variant=12271104524380
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you! It's the right part (45764) for my 1935 221. I just think there might be something else going on. Thank you for taking time to weigh in!!
It certainly may. Don't forget that lever also moves the tension pin release lever that pushes on the back of the thread tension unit. There can be dried gunk on that hinge screw also. How nice to have a clean and smooth presser bar system again. Good luck.
I think that pin on the lifting lever comes out from the other side. From inside the harp area. The featherweight shop has a video on it. That shop just introduced a tool to set the presser bar height
OK. I thought the pin entered from inside the harp area so it would be punched out from the front. A link to video & tool? Next time maybe, and thanks so much for watching.
Here is presser bar adjustment info. singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/presser-foot-height-adjustment-and-alignment To remove the pin of the lifter see this. singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/removing-the-presser-bar-lifter
Perfect and thank you. I just viewed them and they are great. With a website like that I may as well move on to a different model. It looks like everything known on earth about featherweights is available there. Pinning you commnet to the top for others to see first in case they are interested. Thanks for the follow up. 😉Take Care,
Don’t dismiss your work. You cover things in a way they don’t. You are more detailed and personal with your audience. Not everyone has access to their tools. I still enjoy watching your videos and learning. Thanks and good health to you
andy do you have any videos on how to fix the timer on a singer vs2 fiddle ? I didnt see any on your play list for this particular model. I was trying to perfect the stich (it was stiching) so i came across a video from a guy that said that you should adjust the height on the pressure bar cause mayhe the pressure foot was to hight. I followed his instructions (unscrew the pressure bar from the top, lowered it and tighten it back. Now the problem is worse cause number one the needle is not picking up the tread from the vibrating shutler and two, of course is not making any stiches at all. I tried adjusting the needle height, the pressure bar again, (i raised a little bit) but it didnt help. There is no marks on these two bars to guide me as how the height i should be, and how hight should the needle bar should be. (i do not want to touch the bar where the needle goes) all i will touch in here is the needle , and the pressure bar since i already started fooling around with it. I really appreciate if you can help me solve this issue. Thanks
Sorry, I can't help you ☹ I've never seen or worked on that model. Years back I was asked about it and found this free download copy of the original manual ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-sewing-machine-vibrating-shuttle-manual-1891.pdf
A 1925 Singer Model number ???, or Serial number ??? If you have a featherweight like the one in this video here is my video of the same tension thing on a 301: th-cam.com/video/VPzpLIAvz8Y/w-d-xo.html Here is my most complete tutorials about tension assembly work: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJaeFB_GW97NsW5GYM7KD9U.html If these do not help then give me a model number or at least a serial number for more specific information. Singer made a view models in 1925, but if you know that date you maybe know the model number too.
He recently sent me a few. Email to andymanuals53@gmail.com and ask for one. Include an address for mailing thru the USPS. Thanks for watching my channel.
Andy, I just got a 220. The presser foot rod will not budge. I tried sewing machine oil, WD40 and alcohol. I also tried heat( hair dryer). It turns, but that’s all. Any suggestions.
A little confused by your statement that it won't budge but you can turn it. So if you can rotate the bar around in the bushing that indicates it is not stuck to the bushing by dried-up oil. The steps you took are what I would do. If the bar still will not slide up or down in the bushing (for removal) I think there may be a built-up "ring" of oil". I have seen this before. The oil settled and hardened, usually on the bar, and it has a larger diameter than the hole in the bushing and can't pass through. That's the reason I use the Krud Kutter Cleaner & degreaser to drip onto the bar and into the bushings. It helps soften and loosen dried oil quicker than alcohol or WD40, IMO. You can still use the products you have tried but it will take longer and more applications. Using heat from a dryer is a good choice and I've done that many times. This is all I can imagine since you can "turn" the bar but not move it up or down. BTW, if you only loosened the set screw then try removing it completely and use a dropper to drip your cleaner inside too. Use caution with the alcohol and WD as they may damage the finish/decals on your machine. If you still can not get it loose you may want to contact the folks at the featherweight shop. They sure know a lot about the machines and have helped me in the past. singer-featherweight.com/pages/contact-us
hi, how to know that if the presser bar had moved a bit from its original position? cause my machine, at first the needle is hitting the plate, then i adjust it, and now it hitting the presser foot. i have no idea where to look up to.
Which did you adjust, the presser bar or needle bar? Everything I know about the presser bar is in this video. Everything about the needle bar is in this video: th-cam.com/video/zY_XMne5YTQ/w-d-xo.html If you'd like a copy of the The Adjusters Manual for the 221-1 Featherweight you can download it at this link: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0992/8814/files/FW221_Adjuster_s_Manual.pdf?7223313128764594508
I'm only 25 minutes into the video, but I wanted to pass along a cautionary bit of info. I'm not sure if this is true, but I've been told NOT to use alcohol on the featherweights because their finish is shellac and it would be damaged by the alcohol. As I said, I'm not 100% sure, but I choose to see on the side of caution, so I protect the finish, nothing but a soft towel to wipe her down.
Hey Andy. Hope all is well! What is the chance a Singer 221 presser bar spring is compatible with a Singer 185? I have searched the internet for the answer with no luck. Thanks in advanced.
I could not say. I'd have to measure the two or just try it. Are you trying to replace the presser bar spring on a model 185? If so, I'd look at the spring from a model 99 or 99K as the 185 is the newer version and replacement of the 99K and I think they only changed the body and bobbin winder, leaving the other parts the same. I feel the 221 featherweight is a smaller, lighter model, and even if the 221 spring "fit" it may not be the same length or have the same tensile strength as the 185. There are sellers of parts on eBay. www.ebay.com/str/mnbargainstore/Parts-Singer-99/_i.html?_storecat=3720216016&_bkw=spring
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks. If anybody would know, it would be you. Thanks for the ebay suggestion. I am trying to replace the 185 presser bar spring, will search for 99 parts as well. Enjoy a coffee on me. Thanks for the help!
Merry Christmas Andy. I’m spending the day at the workstation doing my therapy today. I took a white Featherweight from a friend and told her I’d clean it up the best I could and much to my surprise compared to my black one, the pressor bar is totally different. The spring was broken on the white Featherweight and when I contacted the Featherweight shop, they said they did not have the spring for that. So I went through another source I can’t remember who at the moment, but they sent me a spring and even though I specifically mentioned in the comment that it’s for the white Featherweight, I think they still sent me the spring for the black one. Anyway, my question is have you ever worked on the white Featherweight and come across the press bar, noticing that the springs are different?
Merry Christmas 🎄 Can't help with this request, sorry. I've never even seen a white featherweight. Chatted once with a lady in California who had a couple dozen black ones and a single white one. She warned me not to buy the white one because they were "cheaply made and have a belt for the hook".
Hello Andy, Great video! Now all the Featherweight people will be checking out your videos.
Thanks. I don't know about that. Yesterday I did a search on YouTUbe "Singer 221 Featherweight" and there are too many videos to count. An incredibly popular model. I have had so many requests to do a series on it that when I was able to buy this one I figured it was time. I'm just doing the basics now and keep looking at the wiring mess and wondering what I'll do about it. I'm hoping for inspiration soon. I'm glad you're watching it. Take Care.
I will highly put you in my link once I startup. If u dont mind, let me know if you do. You are very detail anyone should understand even a kindergarden. I got up this morning (left it alone yesterday) at 2:00am EST. GOT ON MY PHONE AND YOUR POPPED UP ON MY FEED OF UTUBE. THANK YOU.
I do allow embedding on other peoples websites, so feel free. 👍Sometimes folks just want to share something with their audience so it's all good. I have 550+ videos on my PLAYLIST page sorted by model number so if you have other issues with a Featherweight, or another model, I may have some videos for it that can help. Here is the PLAYLIST PAGE: th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists
Thanks for watching my channel and take care.
Beautifully explained and easy to follow, I just about gave up trying to adjust my bar, after watching this, I was able to get it unstuck, cleaned and now it works, thank you
I'm glad you found the video, Diane. Your nice comment made my day so I guess we are even 👍 BTW, I have 25 more videos for the Featherweight Model if you have more issues or want to learn a little more about your machine th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIA1OPw0k6QOSTE-wAUZ4kp.html Thanks for visiting and take care.
Andy u are so through, love how you explain, you are the best. A lot of people r sewing now since the pandemic.
Thanks very much for the kind words. Happy sewing.
I would like one of those gages. I use Height Gages made by Whiteside. Part #9800. Woodcraft #144932.
The original finish on these machines is Shellac. Kerosene will not hurt the finish. I actually submerged a frozen machine in kerosene for a few weeks. I removed all electrics first. The finish was not hurt at all and the machine freed up. Kerosene does not clean as well as your Krud Kutter but it will free everything. A complete dismantle and cleaning is the best for internal parts.
The Presser Bar Lever Hinge Pin is a tapered pin. Drive it out from the inside toward where the faceplate mounts, using a 3/32'' drift. It drives out and in easily but will take a strong hit in the beginning
Good info, I would have been afraid to use it
I know alcohol will compromise the shellac finish, so I am very careful about what touches my machine.
Thank you for the info regarding kerosene. I was told by a retired Singer man that it could be used to free-up the bearing and so forth. I'm glad I did not attempt the pin removal; I was think it went the other way from looking at the end of the pin. Thank you. If you'd care to send email to andymanuals53@gmail.com I can forward your request about the guage to the maker so he can contact you. I am asking him if he wants me to just give his email out, but I think he is hesitant for that. We'll see.
Nola A I mentioned in another comment that it looks like alcohol spilled a little around the top needle bar bushing where I put the brush in. I see fading on the finish there. It may have been something else but I suspect the alcohol. Lesson learned. 🙁
Lin, Terry said to contact him and he will send you one! Terry McClean
Krud Kutter ought to at least send you a case of product!! I know we won't hold our breath, but you really do showcase their product!! I "super glued" my 4 quarters together & they stay in my sewing machine toolkit. Very handy, indeed!!!
Man I love that stuff. If you only knew how much alcohol and Q-tips I went through before, haha. Great Idea of gluing the quarters. Wonder why I did not think of it so they don't slide around. Nice. Thanks for watching and take care,.
I can't even get Krud Kutter in New Zealand :-( And the company that makes it has other products on sale here but hasn't told me (I asked) if an equivalent here is sold with a different name (a bit how the same car model can have a different name in different countries). (If anyone can tell me the active ingredients in it I'd be so grateful!)
It takes me hours and hours to do what Andy does in next-to-no-time with Krud Kutter. I so, so wish I could get it here! And yes I agree - they should send him at least a case, you can't buy the kind of advertising that is a satisfied customer demonstrating your product many times with genuine enthusiasm and showing off the lovely results. :-D
@@meganmills6545 I'm surprised Rust-oleum does not sell it there. Maybe it's an environmental thing? I have a fellow who wrote that he can not get it in South America, but uses a product called LA's Totally Awesome which is found in Dollar Stores here in the US. I don't know how it gets to South America, but he buys it at a local hardware store. He said it works just like the KK and costs the same. Another product I tried was OIL EATER after a viewer sent me some. It worked well but I stuck with the KK. Here is a video I made to compare it. I think it is sold on eBay.au th-cam.com/video/7MvDF-1Iu3U/w-d-xo.html
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi Andy - I was surprised too because their brand has a long-standing presence here. Thank you for the alternative to look into, I'm going to watch your "compare" video right now.
I don't know the cost there, but it may be worth looking into. BTW, I read a news story today that a, um... Rancher? Sheep owner? is using a robotic dog to herd sheep! www.theguardian.com/technology/video/2020/may/22/how-a-robotic-dog-is-herding-sheep-new-zealand-video Who knew we would see that? 👀 Forward-thinking in New Zealand!
I think most of Singer's black machines had japanned paint, then the decals applied, then a shellac coating. If the Featherweight has the same (I suspect it does) then I know that alcohol and spirits (like methylated spirits) start to dissolve it almost instantly. Very wise to protect the finish with the trash bag or similar just to be on the safe-side if ever using something you're unsure of around the finish. :-D Lovely vid, as usual, thank you Andy!
Thanks for the info. I looked just now at the top of the nose where I scrubbed the bushing with alcohol. Sure enough some spilled around the top of the bushing. There is discoloration and fading there. It may have been there before but I suspect it is from the alcohol. Thanks for watching, Megan. Take Care.
I have learned so much from your videos thank you for sharing all your knowledge. Now I am looking forward to learning all about my new to me featherweight.
Congratulations! Lala is the first featherweight I've ever owned. It's a learn-as-I-go situation. It's a great little machine so far, and I see why everyone loves them. Hope you will too and thanks for watching my channel.
I will be following ALL of you videos. You are a very thorough sewing machinest in my opinion. I sent a few comments to you but not received comments yet so I know you are VERY busy. Again, very thorough and imformative video. I will use your hints and tips. Thanks Andy. Belinda
Hi, Belinda. Thanks for watching my videos. I just checked my comments folder and this is the only one listed so I don't know what happened. YT won't let you post hot links to my channel so if you had a linkt to an online page maybe that is why.
Even though I don't have this particular Singer, I love watching and learning about these old machines. Just a suggestion. When you bring something close to the camera to see closer up, the camera is still focused on the machine itself and the close up is fuzzy. If you put your hand behind the object the camera will focus on your hand and not the machine, and the close up will be more in focus.
Thanks for the tip. I keep fooling with the focus range settings on the camera and thought I had it set correctly. I try to do better. Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much for this video, you’ve helped me sort out my floppy pressed foot lever :)
Glad it helped, Abeygale. Thanks for keeping your machine in service, and happy sewing.
This helped me a lot. I have a 222K (230-250 volts) and the foot lifter sticks a little towards the last bit when you lift it. Now I can see exactly how it is put together and I suspect there might be some gunkc - the rest of the machine I already did and she sews like a dream now. The 222 is so tight because there is even less space than in the 221 due to the narrow free arm. I shall check the lifter tomorrow and see if that fixes the problem. The lacquer used on the Featherweight is shellac and that is damaged by spirits (denatured alcohol).
I would buy that tool!!!
I've never seen the 22K1 in person; only pictures and the manuals. I have worked on a tubular bed (free-arm) model and I know what you mean about tight. Hopefully, you will find what is causing the sticky lifter. Good Luck.
Thank you again, Andy! I just got a FW that is missing the releasing lever! I'm feeling more confident about being able to put one back on after seeing your video.
Sure you can do it, Kim. No worries 😊 Think of all the thread and fabric you can buy with the money you save by doing it yourself!
Thanks for watching my channel and taking the time to comment. Good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you! Quick question - I replaced the presser bar release lever/spring correctly but it isn't quite hitting the tension pin. Any ideas on what to try next? When I compare this machine to another FW, the tension pin seems out about the same distance. The levers look the same. I'm thinking of removing a lever from another machine to rule that new part out as the issue. The lifter on the back seems like it still has a little play at the top where it could go higher. Any suggestions for what to try next?
@@kimlane5961 SInger models 221 use two different release levers depending on the model. I'd guess you have the wrong one.
Part 45764 seems to be the most common part number, but 221K models and a couple others use Part 45909. The part number should be clearly stamped into the part. Look for the one you do not have now. You can go here to see what I'm talking about. Be sure to read the description closely: singer-featherweight.com/products/releasing-lever-and-spring-singer-featherweight-vintage-original?variant=12271104524380
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you! It's the right part (45764) for my 1935 221. I just think there might be something else going on. Thank you for taking time to weigh in!!
@@kimlane5961 That's good about the part; I had the wrong one on Lala. Good luck then.
My releasing lever on my 222 is really stiff. I think if I take it apart like you are doing here& clean it. It may work better. Thanks Andy.
It certainly may. Don't forget that lever also moves the tension pin release lever that pushes on the back of the thread tension unit. There can be dried gunk on that hinge screw also. How nice to have a clean and smooth presser bar system again. Good luck.
I think that pin on the lifting lever comes out from the other side. From inside the harp area. The featherweight shop has a video on it. That shop just introduced a tool to set the presser bar height
OK. I thought the pin entered from inside the harp area so it would be punched out from the front. A link to video & tool? Next time maybe, and thanks so much for watching.
Here is presser bar adjustment info. singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/presser-foot-height-adjustment-and-alignment
To remove the pin of the lifter see this. singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/removing-the-presser-bar-lifter
Perfect and thank you. I just viewed them and they are great. With a website like that I may as well move on to a different model. It looks like everything known on earth about featherweights is available there. Pinning you commnet to the top for others to see first in case they are interested. Thanks for the follow up. 😉Take Care,
Don’t dismiss your work. You cover things in a way they don’t. You are more detailed and personal with your audience. Not everyone has access to their tools. I still enjoy watching your videos and learning. Thanks and good health to you
Appreciate your kind words 😊 and your support of my channel. Take care.
Excellent video!
Thank you very much
The Featherweight bobbin is also 7mm tall i have used that in a pinch. If i ever need to do an adjustment on the fly it gets you very close.
That's a great idea. Thanks for sharing. My bobbins measure 7.23mm
That tool is priceless in my opinion.
email the creator Terry McClean He may just send you one! Thanks for watching it.
andy do you have any videos on how to fix the timer on a singer vs2 fiddle ? I didnt see any on your play list for this particular model. I was trying to perfect the stich (it was stiching) so i came across a video from a guy that said that you should adjust the height on the pressure bar cause mayhe the pressure foot was to hight. I followed his instructions (unscrew the pressure bar from the top, lowered it and tighten it back. Now the problem is worse cause number one the needle is not picking up the tread from the vibrating shutler and two, of course is not making any stiches at all. I tried adjusting the needle height, the pressure bar again, (i raised a little bit) but it didnt help. There is no marks on these two bars to guide me as how the height i should be, and how hight should the needle bar should be. (i do not want to touch the bar where the needle goes) all i will touch in here is the needle , and the pressure bar since i already started fooling around with it. I really appreciate if you can help me solve this issue. Thanks
Sorry, I can't help you ☹ I've never seen or worked on that model. Years back I was asked about it and found this free download copy of the original manual ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-sewing-machine-vibrating-shuttle-manual-1891.pdf
Andy thank you for your video. I am trying to restore an 1925 singer. Do you have a video on the on the Thread tension thing.
A 1925 Singer Model number ???, or Serial number ??? If you have a featherweight like the one in this video here is my video of the same tension thing on a 301: th-cam.com/video/VPzpLIAvz8Y/w-d-xo.html
Here is my most complete tutorials about tension assembly work: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJaeFB_GW97NsW5GYM7KD9U.html If these do not help then give me a model number or at least a serial number for more specific information. Singer made a view models in 1925, but if you know that date you maybe know the model number too.
Thank you so very much. Is that yellow tool from Terry available?
He recently sent me a few. Email to andymanuals53@gmail.com and ask for one. Include an address for mailing thru the USPS. Thanks for watching my channel.
Andy, I just got a 220. The presser foot rod will not budge. I tried sewing machine oil, WD40 and alcohol. I also tried heat( hair dryer). It turns, but that’s all. Any suggestions.
A little confused by your statement that it won't budge but you can turn it. So if you can rotate the bar around in the bushing that indicates it is not stuck to the bushing by dried-up oil. The steps you took are what I would do. If the bar still will not slide up or down in the bushing (for removal) I think there may be a built-up "ring" of oil". I have seen this before. The oil settled and hardened, usually on the bar, and it has a larger diameter than the hole in the bushing and can't pass through. That's the reason I use the Krud Kutter Cleaner & degreaser to drip onto the bar and into the bushings. It helps soften and loosen dried oil quicker than alcohol or WD40, IMO. You can still use the products you have tried but it will take longer and more applications. Using heat from a dryer is a good choice and I've done that many times. This is all I can imagine since you can "turn" the bar but not move it up or down. BTW, if you only loosened the set screw then try removing it completely and use a dropper to drip your cleaner inside too. Use caution with the alcohol and WD as they may damage the finish/decals on your machine. If you still can not get it loose you may want to contact the folks at the featherweight shop. They sure know a lot about the machines and have helped me in the past. singer-featherweight.com/pages/contact-us
hi, how to know that if the presser bar had moved a bit from its original position? cause my machine, at first the needle is hitting the plate, then i adjust it, and now it hitting the presser foot. i have no idea where to look up to.
Which did you adjust, the presser bar or needle bar? Everything I know about the presser bar is in this video. Everything about the needle bar is in this video:
th-cam.com/video/zY_XMne5YTQ/w-d-xo.html If you'd like a copy of the The Adjusters Manual for the 221-1 Featherweight you can download it at this link: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0992/8814/files/FW221_Adjuster_s_Manual.pdf?7223313128764594508
I'm only 25 minutes into the video, but I wanted to pass along a cautionary bit of info. I'm not sure if this is true, but I've been told NOT to use alcohol on the featherweights because their finish is shellac and it would be damaged by the alcohol. As I said, I'm not 100% sure, but I choose to see on the side of caution, so I protect the finish, nothing but a soft towel to wipe her down.
Agree about the alcohol and replied to another comment you left. I put the alcohol back on the self 🙂
Thank you very Mach
Yes, you are welcome.
Hey Andy. Hope all is well! What is the chance a Singer 221 presser bar spring is compatible with a Singer 185? I have searched the internet for the answer with no luck. Thanks in advanced.
I could not say. I'd have to measure the two or just try it. Are you trying to replace the presser bar spring on a model 185? If so, I'd look at the spring from a model 99 or 99K as the 185 is the newer version and replacement of the 99K and I think they only changed the body and bobbin winder, leaving the other parts the same. I feel the 221 featherweight is a smaller, lighter model, and even if the 221 spring "fit" it may not be the same length or have the same tensile strength as the 185. There are sellers of parts on eBay.
www.ebay.com/str/mnbargainstore/Parts-Singer-99/_i.html?_storecat=3720216016&_bkw=spring
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks. If anybody would know, it would be you. Thanks for the ebay suggestion. I am trying to replace the 185 presser bar spring, will search for 99 parts as well. Enjoy a coffee on me. Thanks for the help!
@@markscheidegg1181 Mmmm, Starbucks 😊 Good luck.
I would love one of those 3D printed tools.
I'm contacting the maker to see if he wants to do something. I'll let you know.
Um... what did you think of the video?
Terry said to contact him and he will send you one! Terry McClean
Merry Christmas Andy. I’m spending the day at the workstation doing my therapy today. I took a white Featherweight from a friend and told her I’d clean it up the best I could and much to my surprise compared to my black one, the pressor bar is totally different. The spring was broken on the white Featherweight and when I contacted the Featherweight shop, they said they did not have the spring for that. So I went through another source I can’t remember who at the moment, but they sent me a spring and even though I specifically mentioned in the comment that it’s for the white Featherweight, I think they still sent me the spring for the black one. Anyway, my question is have you ever worked on the white Featherweight and come across the press bar, noticing that the springs are different?
Merry Christmas 🎄 Can't help with this request, sorry. I've never even seen a white featherweight. Chatted once with a lady in California who had a couple dozen black ones and a single white one. She warned me not to buy the white one because they were "cheaply made and have a belt for the hook".
@ good to know. Thanks.