@@NicolasMelis i have looked as well, its not around in old England :{ you can get it from the states via the usual online places but the cost of postage or shipping as you say is expensive, also there could be customs problems ,bans etc as an import,be interesting to know if any people in Europe have got it domestically , looked on uk wide motorbike retailers non seem to stock it ,shame really i would like to try it on my old gear .
For more than 30 years my method has been prevention of dirt rather than a cure for it. So regular hand washing, clean habits, no smoking, no eating / drinking and making sure the room is kept free of dust where possible. Oh and never let other people use your stuff! I've stupidly used to allow people to pick up my guitars with freshly fitted new strings, and 10mins later those strings would be completely ruined and needed replacing with more new strings, plus there was often thick black dirt on the fretboard etc.
They say in Dune "Fear is the mind killer..." well I believe "Dust is the synth killer..." 1. Ensure all electronic equipment is covered up or squared away when not in use 2. Vacuum and dust workspace including wiping down all hard surfaces once a week (and ensure any clutter, stray cables, manuals etc all put away - places like this are especially bad for harbouring dust) 3. Gently use a soft haired paintbrush across the surface of your gear (especially good for mixers with hard to access areas around the pots and into grooves into which the sliders sit) 4. Then use a very very slightly dampened cotton lint free cloth to wipe down main synth or mixer areas (remembering to earth yourself if you are going to be wiping down anything with a metal surface to discharge any static build-up) 5. Use a dampened cloth for the keyboard and the shelf below the keys and then a cotton towel to dry 6. Remember to wipe down any exposed areas of keyboard stand and racking - these are easily forgotten and seem to be massive dust magnets 7. Every so often remember to give all cables, power leads and adaptors a wipe (obviously the largest build up of dust is going to be at floor level) I suggest all of the above is done with the power turned off and equipment disconnected from the mains outlet obviously. Happy days.
I watched this video about a week ago after finding your channel in my recommended, Amazon had a deal (2 can's for 18 bucks) going on so I decided to try it out for myself thinking if it didn't work as well as it seemed I could at least use it in my car. Well.... Yesterday I pulled everything out of my studio (including my very grimy Poly61) and my god most of my gear looks like I may have bought it brand new just recently or within a year or so of cleaning it!!!!! It works SO WELL!!!!!! I genuinely can not recommend it more. All of my stuff was luster-ish, definitely looks like it's been sitting out for the greater part of 30+ years (in the case of a couple of my drum machines probably smoked around) and now the colors are deep and rich, they feel smooth and fresh and new and there's no greasy residue or funky smell. It's going to be a go to in my studio from here on out and with two can's I'll be set for years!!!
Fantastic! 15 years of blood, sweat, tears, splots of soup and other grime cleaned off easy-peasy! The spray smells great too. Thank you! Now I can practice those bloody Hanon studies again!
I'd say I'm not too sure about using motorcycles stuff on synthesizer. Usually those are not intended for electronic devices where the motherboard might get damaged. I usually recommend more to clean with stuff like isopropyl alcohol or white vinegar
Alcohol can be dangerous, as a lot of the screen-printed graphics manufacturers used are soluble in alcohol. Vinegar is acidic and can promote corrosion. The Spray Polish has surfactants that lift the grime, and a modified carnuba wax that remains as a protectant and gives it a like-new shine. As I mentioned in the video, I have been using this stuff for years, and it's never failed.
Okay, I was sceptical as hell but I gave it a try today on a few older synths and the results were night and day. I had a lot of nasty residue on them from old foam that is turning to mush in the flight cases and this stuff just cleaned everything top to bottom. The only thing I did notice is that the "Yamaha" on the back of my DX7 started coming off but I think that has more to do with the elbow grease I had to put into it to turn it back to white from green. Probably used a lot more than I needed to on there, about half the can, but it was nasty. Now it looks practically new. Great tip.
My secret weapon for everyday cleaning of my instruments is very simple. An old cotton cloth .. prefearble from an old bed sheet and just plain windows cleaner you buy in a store. I have yet to see any materieal that get damaged from it. It's great for cleaning just about everything on the outer of the instrument. Newer spray direct on the instrument. spray on the cloth and clean and dry it off with the cloth. works both for grime on the keys and the top of the instrument no matter if its plastic or metal. It doesn't do any damage to the text or other bad things. Only precaution is if your display don't use a protective plastic there used to be a warning for the early LCD monitors that using regular water on a cloth was prefeared as windows cleaner could react with the delicate display. Not sure about today, but I always just use not too hot water on my flatscreen anyway
I do not advise spraying anything wet or even using a wet cloth on any keyboard, unless it is taken apart from the other components. I used a wet towelette on my Roland JD-Xi one time, and it damn near ruined the play, stop and record button. I would advise using a Walmart microfiber towel. They are very cheap, and they clean the synth without any wetness. If you would use any wetness at all, only make it so that it isn't even damp, but a little dryer than damp, because it will get into and under the buttons and ruin your whole synth. Just a friendly reminder to everyone to not make the same mistake as me 🌗
You certainly don't want to have liquids dripping down inside the synth, but a cleaner such as the one I show here, which is applied as a fine mist and then wiped off, is not going into the synth, and is definitely not going to affect buttons or sliders. Rubber cap buttons like used on the JD-Xi are fairly well sealed, as are tactile switches with caps on them - you would need a LOT of liquid penetrating to get far enough inside that it would affect the button at all.
Oh yes, only the finest poly-olefin microfiber, as they provide the most analog sound and warmest tones.... uhhhh, no. Just kidding. I just use some random crap cotton towels I have laying around. :)
Great tip! I'm a former motorcyclist (20 years) and a synth musician, so I already knew about this spray but I didn't think to use it for synths! Good to know about this. I have a synthesizer I bought used from Reverb (an Access Indigo 2 Redback) and it has a light but persistent perfume scent, and it's gawd-awful. It's already giving me a headache and I've only had it out for about an hour. Granted, I have an incredible sense of smell. Would white vinegar or alcohol be advisable too? You're using the old detailer's trick of spraying the towel, not the surface. Good technique! Until I can get some Honda Spray Polish, I used a 50/50 mixture of medical-grade alcohol and distilled water. I wiped every surface with it, hoping I found most of the perfume molecules. I guess I can repeat the process until it stops smelling like some awful perfume. Curious, what about Honda Spray Polish makes this better than alcohol or vinegar? Either way, I'm gonna get some!
Alcohol can be dangerous, as a lot of the screen-printed graphics manufacturers used are soluble in alcohol. Vinegar is acidic and can promote corrosion. The Spray Polish has surfactants that lift the grime, and a modified carnuba wax that remains as a protectant and gives it a like-new shine.
Hi Scott, Love the Channel. Question: What covers are you using to cover your Keybeds that I see in your video here? Which covers do you recommend for 61. 73 & 88 keys. Thx ElectricEddie 😎
@@ScottsSynthStuff Hey Scott, I read a couple of reviews and there were several bad ones. Re: Black Gator Covers: Have you had any issues with the Black covers in where the black dye came off on white knobs or white keys ? There was also 2 reviews said something about the Silver covers, had some Silver flaking off. Re: Incorrect Sizes: Also some were too tight or baggy due to inaccurate sizes listed on the web site. I realize some reviews may be geeks writing them but I am asking you for your experience since I follow your channel and trust your judgement. I am looking to buy several so I dont want to waste hundreds of dollars...LOL... Thx ElectricEddie
Btw. Scott when we're talking about keeping our gear clean. You have a lot of covers for your gear, do you purchase those somewhere ? It's not always for those odd sized instruments or Items you can purchase a dust cover that is made specific for the Item at hand
Nice, I've been using Cafiza which is a water based espresso machine detergent, just on a towel though. But non water cleaners are preferable around electronics.
I've been looking for a product to improve the look of my synths (SY77, T3, D50, TS10, etc) for a while now. An apparently suitable product is finally proposed here, but it is not available in Europe (as far as I see). Damn. 😡
Do you use air compressor regularly for keybed and physical buttons?? For keybed microfiber cloth +Just water is Best. Cleaners make White keys yellowish.
I use compressed air to clean synths when I am restoring them, but not as a normal cleaning process. Polymers typically yellow due to the breaking of polymer chains, primarily when they are exposed to oxygen and UV light. Many cleaners are oxidizers, which is why they can cause this. The cleaner I show here, on the other hand, is not an oxidizer, is specifically intended for use on plastic polymers, and actually leaves behind a UV-protective coating that prevents yellowing from UV exposure.
@@ScottsSynthStuff this is why I love nord stage 3 compact keybed. They are naturally yellowish. Also my montage 6 keys are not White as my p115 piano keys.
thank you scott💡( idea!). and for holding your door ajar long enough to show you are not being held prisoner in some bizzare synth sarchophigus of the 🪼HYDROSYNTH🪼 !! i love ya scottee, you do exist outside aswell. thanks for letting me hear what YOU have to say🦭
Hi Scott, what do you recommend for contact cleaners; I understand that there are different formulas, some for switches which are different for what to use with pots and/or sliders.
For synths, I use two different contact cleaners - one for contacts and switches, and one for pots/faders: DeOxit D5 Contact Cleaner: amzn.to/3mIihpT DeOxit F5 Fader Cleaner: amzn.to/3KGZ8Nj
A detergent will certainly help remove a lot of oil and dirt, but you don't get the benefit of the protective coating afterwards from the cleaner I show that makes it look so shiny and new, and protects the plastic parts from UV yellowing.
There are two simple kinds of cleaning liquids: vinegar cleaner (for my synth) and alcohol (nail polish remover of girlfriends/wives). Cost a few cents, helps against every kind of dirt, and that's all I need in my whole household.
Hi, This is a crazy thing to ask you.I can get a killer deal on a MODX6 but the name MODX6 on the keyboard is scratched.I know it doesn't hurt the workings but it looks terrible.I emailed SYNTUAR they said the whole outer cover is $130.Is there a way for me to get a pro painter to repaint the name on or is it silk screened on?
Does that work on a key bed that has turned yellow? My sub37 keys have discoloured for some reason. I’m in a non smoking studio. Moog told me that it happens on this model.
No, that's actually caused by broken polymer chains in the plastic used to make the keys - primarily from oxidation and UV exposure. If it has started yellowing already, and it really bothers you, you can disassemble the keybed, put the yellowed keys in a solution of hydrogen peroxide, and expose them to UV (strong sunlight for a day will work). This usually returns yellowed plastic to white. Look up this article: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retr0bright
@@ScottsSynthStuff Thanks for the answer. I know knothing about electronics - should I get in touch with an electrician? I live in a town and there aren't many options. I've asked a music instrument shop and a place where electric and electronic components are sold; the former said there was no Korg 'SAT' (I don't know what that stands for) and the latter said that they didn't have a warehouse or place where they fixed electronic devices such as mine. Instead, they offered me a can with some kind of thing that helps erase the humidity in an electronic device; I told them that I thought it was humidity what has damaged my synth. I'm pretty confused. Thanks in advance for reading this...
@@CollapsingRealities An electrician is not going to know how to deal with this. I would highly suggest an electronics tech familiar with synthesizers. Failing that, a decent computer electronics tech with some modicum of diagnostic skills could likely sort it out as well. I doubt it is humidity related.
Rubbing alcohol will damage and/or dissolve many types of paint used on synths, and it can also weaken/dissolve certain types of plastics - especially those with high rubber content, like that which is used on knobs. If your synth has wood with a lacquer finish, rubbing alcohol can cause the finish to become cloudy. The cleaner I show also leaves behind a protective coating that rubbing alcohol certainly does not.
@@ScottsSynthStuff i'm using 99.9% alcohol to clean my synths since 40 years.. never had any problem with it.. never used it on rubber parts or on the keys itself though, but its always nice to get some new ideas.. thanx for the tip!
I found a Yamaha pss-170 keyboard. The output stage is so dirty through the on board speaker and through the headphone jack.Any suggestions on how to get a cleaner output? All the capacitors seem fine no bloated caps. I did a complete tear down and cleaning. Also tried different voltages 9-12v on the wall warts. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I know it’s a cheap keyboard, but I’m running it through my Mpc sampler adding effects to spice up this mediocre keyboard.
Hi Scott! Amazing video. Quick question. I have an Arturia MatrixBrute and it has this rubber-ish knobs and sliders (not sure if you are familiar with them). The thing is that I feel like they've been getting stickier over time. Would you recommend this product to clean my MatrixBrute rubber knobs and sliders?
If you're talking about "stiction" where it takes more force to "break them free" when you first start moving them, then yes, this would definitely help.
@@ScottsSynthStuff Hi Scott, thanks for your reply. No actually I meant more like a sticky feeling to the touch. They are kind of sticky on my fingers, which is not very pleasant to touch. Also other synth like the Moogs (I think the Sub-Phatty) that have rubbery sides have that.
@@mscherer1586 ah, sticky rubber syndrome. You can try rubbing alcohol to remove the sticky layer of devulcanized rubber, but there is really no fix for this other than replacement.
Hi, I have spelled a full cop hot coffee on the keys on my expensive keyboard, and after that it does not want to start. The whole keyboard is dead. Is it worth it to send it for repair, and if so can it be to expensive? or it's done?
My thoughts are that California cancer warnings are completely irrelevant, as they basically list pretty much EVERYTHING as causing cancer. If it contains plastic, pretty much any chemical, metal, whatever, California mandates that it have that cancer warning on it. The end result is that just about everything we buy today has that useless cancer warning printed on it - which in effect means that the warning is meaningless.
Never EVER use WD-40 on electronics! WD-40 is not a contact cleaner, it is a water displacement agent originally designed to prevent rockets from rusting. The way it does this is by leaving behind a sticky, oily goo after the carrier evaporates. This oily coating prevents oxidation. However, it also does one other thing really well: it attracts and captures dust and dirt. So while you may get temporary relief from using WD-40 on pots and switches because the carrier helps wash away contaminants (just like a proper electrical contact cleaner does), it then leaves behind a sticky oily coating that attracts even more contaminants, and before you know it, your switch/slider/pot is now noisy and malfunctioning.
This is the link to this product: Honda Spray Clean & Polish: amzn.to/3HY2KtT
currently unavailable for Europe :(
@@NicolasMelis i have looked as well, its not around in old England :{ you can get it from the states via the usual online places but the cost of postage or shipping as you say is expensive, also there could be customs problems ,bans etc as an import,be interesting to know if any people in Europe have got it domestically , looked on uk wide motorbike retailers non seem to stock it ,shame really i would like to try it on my old gear .
@@MAXERNEST yes! same here
Will it restore dead keys?
I will order it anyway but I wanted to know that thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the great tip 💯 I have a Montage and needed a proven, safe recommedation for cleaning my keys 🙏
For more than 30 years my method has been prevention of dirt rather than a cure for it. So regular hand washing, clean habits, no smoking, no eating / drinking and making sure the room is kept free of dust where possible. Oh and never let other people use your stuff! I've stupidly used to allow people to pick up my guitars with freshly fitted new strings, and 10mins later those strings would be completely ruined and needed replacing with more new strings, plus there was often thick black dirt on the fretboard etc.
They say in Dune "Fear is the mind killer..." well I believe "Dust is the synth killer..."
1. Ensure all electronic equipment is covered up or squared away when not in use
2. Vacuum and dust workspace including wiping down all hard surfaces once a week (and ensure any clutter, stray cables, manuals etc all put away - places like this are especially bad for harbouring dust)
3. Gently use a soft haired paintbrush across the surface of your gear (especially good for mixers with hard to access areas around the pots and into grooves into which the sliders sit)
4. Then use a very very slightly dampened cotton lint free cloth to wipe down main synth or mixer areas (remembering to earth yourself if you are going to be wiping down anything with a metal surface to discharge any static build-up)
5. Use a dampened cloth for the keyboard and the shelf below the keys and then a cotton towel to dry
6. Remember to wipe down any exposed areas of keyboard stand and racking - these are easily forgotten and seem to be massive dust magnets
7. Every so often remember to give all cables, power leads and adaptors a wipe (obviously the largest build up of dust is going to be at floor level)
I suggest all of the above is done with the power turned off and equipment disconnected from the mains outlet obviously.
Happy days.
lowkey just an informercial for a spray cleaner.
awesome lmao
thanks for the tip :)
I watched this video about a week ago after finding your channel in my recommended, Amazon had a deal (2 can's for 18 bucks) going on so I decided to try it out for myself thinking if it didn't work as well as it seemed I could at least use it in my car. Well.... Yesterday I pulled everything out of my studio (including my very grimy Poly61) and my god most of my gear looks like I may have bought it brand new just recently or within a year or so of cleaning it!!!!! It works SO WELL!!!!!! I genuinely can not recommend it more. All of my stuff was luster-ish, definitely looks like it's been sitting out for the greater part of 30+ years (in the case of a couple of my drum machines probably smoked around) and now the colors are deep and rich, they feel smooth and fresh and new and there's no greasy residue or funky smell. It's going to be a go to in my studio from here on out and with two can's I'll be set for years!!!
I've had so many people report the exact same thing. I'm glad I was able to share this with everyone!
Thanks for the video I been using this stuff on my bikes for 30 years. The smell brings nostalgia and joy. Now I can use it on my synths thanks!
Fantastic! 15 years of blood, sweat, tears, splots of soup and other grime cleaned off easy-peasy! The spray smells great too. Thank you! Now I can practice those bloody Hanon studies again!
I'd say I'm not too sure about using motorcycles stuff on synthesizer. Usually those are not intended for electronic devices where the motherboard might get damaged. I usually recommend more to clean with stuff like isopropyl alcohol or white vinegar
Alcohol can be dangerous, as a lot of the screen-printed graphics manufacturers used are soluble in alcohol. Vinegar is acidic and can promote corrosion. The Spray Polish has surfactants that lift the grime, and a modified carnuba wax that remains as a protectant and gives it a like-new shine.
As I mentioned in the video, I have been using this stuff for years, and it's never failed.
Another great tip!!! I just ordered some... Thanks for all you do with your sharing all this!!! It is appreciated!!
Okay, I was sceptical as hell but I gave it a try today on a few older synths and the results were night and day. I had a lot of nasty residue on them from old foam that is turning to mush in the flight cases and this stuff just cleaned everything top to bottom. The only thing I did notice is that the "Yamaha" on the back of my DX7 started coming off but I think that has more to do with the elbow grease I had to put into it to turn it back to white from green. Probably used a lot more than I needed to on there, about half the can, but it was nasty. Now it looks practically new. Great tip.
I swear, this stuff works SO well. I've had quite a few people report back that they tried it and it worked great for them as well!
My secret weapon for everyday cleaning of my instruments is very simple. An old cotton cloth .. prefearble from an old bed sheet and just plain windows cleaner you buy in a store. I have yet to see any materieal that get damaged from it. It's great for cleaning just about everything on the outer of the instrument. Newer spray direct on the instrument. spray on the cloth and clean and dry it off with the cloth. works both for grime on the keys and the top of the instrument no matter if its plastic or metal. It doesn't do any damage to the text or other bad things. Only precaution is if your display don't use a protective plastic there used to be a warning for the early LCD monitors that using regular water on a cloth was prefeared as windows cleaner could react with the delicate display. Not sure about today, but I always just use not too hot water on my flatscreen anyway
I just ordered a pre owned Roland fa 06 and I’m anticipating I’m going to detail it when it arrives so this was really helpful because I have no clue
Thanks for the tip, I never would've thought of that.
Outstanding video Scott thank you.
I’m excited to try this out on my Yamaha s90xs
I do not advise spraying anything wet or even using a wet cloth on any keyboard, unless it is taken apart from the other components. I used a wet towelette on my Roland JD-Xi one time, and it damn near ruined the play, stop and record button. I would advise using a Walmart microfiber towel. They are very cheap, and they clean the synth without any wetness. If you would use any wetness at all, only make it so that it isn't even damp, but a little dryer than damp, because it will get into and under the buttons and ruin your whole synth. Just a friendly reminder to everyone to not make the same mistake as me 🌗
You certainly don't want to have liquids dripping down inside the synth, but a cleaner such as the one I show here, which is applied as a fine mist and then wiped off, is not going into the synth, and is definitely not going to affect buttons or sliders.
Rubber cap buttons like used on the JD-Xi are fairly well sealed, as are tactile switches with caps on them - you would need a LOT of liquid penetrating to get far enough inside that it would affect the button at all.
Windex glass cleaner works good too, but this foam spray bike cleaner is better for sure
Hey Scott, is there a particular towel or cloth you recommend for cleaning a synthesizer?
Oh yes, only the finest poly-olefin microfiber, as they provide the most analog sound and warmest tones....
uhhhh, no. Just kidding. I just use some random crap cotton towels I have laying around. :)
Don't know if you've heard this before, but you REALLY remind me of my old friend Bill Henderson, (from the band Chilliwack - Canada)
I haven't heard that before! I was hoping to get up to see them in Toronto this May when they play, but I couldn't make it up unfortunately.
I love you videos, your york on my old dreamed polysix (I went for a Cz-3000 cause of €) is amazing !
Great tip! I'm a former motorcyclist (20 years) and a synth musician, so I already knew about this spray but I didn't think to use it for synths! Good to know about this. I have a synthesizer I bought used from Reverb (an Access Indigo 2 Redback) and it has a light but persistent perfume scent, and it's gawd-awful. It's already giving me a headache and I've only had it out for about an hour. Granted, I have an incredible sense of smell.
Would white vinegar or alcohol be advisable too? You're using the old detailer's trick of spraying the towel, not the surface. Good technique!
Until I can get some Honda Spray Polish, I used a 50/50 mixture of medical-grade alcohol and distilled water. I wiped every surface with it, hoping I found most of the perfume molecules. I guess I can repeat the process until it stops smelling like some awful perfume.
Curious, what about Honda Spray Polish makes this better than alcohol or vinegar? Either way, I'm gonna get some!
Alcohol can be dangerous, as a lot of the screen-printed graphics manufacturers used are soluble in alcohol. Vinegar is acidic and can promote corrosion. The Spray Polish has surfactants that lift the grime, and a modified carnuba wax that remains as a protectant and gives it a like-new shine.
@@ScottsSynthStuff Great explanation. You've convinced me. Thanks!
Excellent tip! Thank you.
I think youtube is reading my mind. I was wondering exactly that.
Hi Scott,
Love the Channel.
Question: What covers are you using to cover your Keybeds that I see in your video here? Which covers do you recommend for 61. 73 & 88 keys.
Thx
ElectricEddie 😎
I get this question so often, that I put links to the covers I use in the description of every video (including this one)!
@@ScottsSynthStuff Hey Scott, I read a couple of reviews and there were several bad ones.
Re: Black Gator Covers: Have you had any issues with the Black covers in where the black dye came off on white knobs or white keys ? There was also 2 reviews said something about the Silver covers, had some Silver flaking off.
Re: Incorrect Sizes: Also some were too tight or baggy due to inaccurate sizes listed on the web site. I realize some reviews may be geeks writing them but I am asking you for your experience since I follow your channel and trust your judgement. I am looking to buy several so I dont want to waste hundreds of dollars...LOL...
Thx ElectricEddie
@@ElectricEddieDaus nope, I've never had any kind of problems like that.
@@ScottsSynthStuff Thx a bunch...
Btw. Scott when we're talking about keeping our gear clean. You have a lot of covers for your gear, do you purchase those somewhere ? It's not always for those odd sized instruments or Items you can purchase a dust cover that is made specific for the Item at hand
Yes, I get asked that question so often that I put links to those covers in every video.
Nice, I've been using Cafiza which is a water based espresso machine detergent, just on a towel though. But non water cleaners are preferable around electronics.
Unfortunately, looks like its not available in the UK, only in the US. So import charges/delivery make it very expensive to get hold of.
I've been looking for a product to improve the look of my synths (SY77, T3, D50, TS10, etc) for a while now. An apparently suitable product is finally proposed here, but it is not available in Europe (as far as I see). Damn. 😡
Do you use air compressor regularly for keybed and physical buttons?? For keybed microfiber cloth +Just water is Best. Cleaners make White keys yellowish.
I use compressed air to clean synths when I am restoring them, but not as a normal cleaning process.
Polymers typically yellow due to the breaking of polymer chains, primarily when they are exposed to oxygen and UV light. Many cleaners are oxidizers, which is why they can cause this. The cleaner I show here, on the other hand, is not an oxidizer, is specifically intended for use on plastic polymers, and actually leaves behind a UV-protective coating that prevents yellowing from UV exposure.
@@ScottsSynthStuff this is why I love nord stage 3 compact keybed. They are naturally yellowish. Also my montage 6 keys are not White as my p115 piano keys.
Thank you Scott. Unfortunately the link you gave leads to an unavailable product.
I suspect it might not be available in all countries?
Mine don’t get dirty. Quick fleck with a soft bristled paint brush after every session keeps them like new
I bought it, I hope it doesn’t remove the lettering, and numbers, I might use it on my synthi, might.
It does not. Rubbing alcohol does however, so don't use that.
I noticed that the hydrasynth deluxe keys are very prone to being scratched, will the polish get rid of the scratches?
Shame Yamaha didn't get something together like this, could cover their two of their biggest markets
thank you scott💡( idea!).
and for holding your door ajar long enough to show you are not being held prisoner in some bizzare
synth sarchophigus of the
🪼HYDROSYNTH🪼 !!
i love ya scottee, you do exist outside aswell.
thanks for letting me hear
what YOU have to say🦭
I have an ems synthi, not sure if im using it on that. Too scary, but ill use it on my s612
Nice tip, thanks!
Hi Scott, what do you recommend for contact cleaners; I understand that there are different formulas, some for switches which are different for what to use with pots and/or sliders.
For synths, I use two different contact cleaners - one for contacts and switches, and one for pots/faders:
DeOxit D5 Contact Cleaner: amzn.to/3mIihpT
DeOxit F5 Fader Cleaner: amzn.to/3KGZ8Nj
Its wonderful for motorcycle helmets and face shields too
100%, I use it for that as well!
Wet microfiber towel with Dawn Power Wash rubbed in, then a dry microfiber towel.
A detergent will certainly help remove a lot of oil and dirt, but you don't get the benefit of the protective coating afterwards from the cleaner I show that makes it look so shiny and new, and protects the plastic parts from UV yellowing.
NEVER use microfiber things. They scratch! Use cotton!
the coating is carnauba wax@@ScottsSynthStuff
There are two simple kinds of cleaning liquids: vinegar cleaner (for my synth) and alcohol (nail polish remover of girlfriends/wives). Cost a few cents, helps against every kind of dirt, and that's all I need in my whole household.
Alcohol (or acetone, which is actually what nail polish remover is) will often REMOVE paint on synths, so you need to be careful!
Have you ever used it on Tolex?
Nice tip! What stand do you use for this 3 synthesizers?
It is an On-Stage Stands Z-stand with an extra tier added. The Z stand: amzn.to/3YwbEEP The extra tier: amzn.to/3XtVpa6
Actually, that's the wrong Z-stand. This one is mine: amzn.to/3Ix5xuF
Hi, This is a crazy thing to ask you.I can get a killer deal on a MODX6 but the name MODX6 on the keyboard is scratched.I know it doesn't hurt the workings but it looks terrible.I emailed SYNTUAR they said the whole outer cover is $130.Is there a way for me to get a pro painter to repaint the name on or is it silk screened on?
Does that work on a key bed that has turned yellow? My sub37 keys have discoloured for some reason. I’m in a non smoking studio. Moog told me that it happens on this model.
No, that's actually caused by broken polymer chains in the plastic used to make the keys - primarily from oxidation and UV exposure. If it has started yellowing already, and it really bothers you, you can disassemble the keybed, put the yellowed keys in a solution of hydrogen peroxide, and expose them to UV (strong sunlight for a day will work). This usually returns yellowed plastic to white. Look up this article: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retr0bright
I will take a. Look thanks!
Thanks for the video. I have a Korg Triton LE and almost an entire octave is dead. Do you think this product could help?
If a set of keys together are all dead, it's usually an electrical problem with the keyboard scan matrix (or one of the connectors).
@@ScottsSynthStuff Thanks for the answer. I know knothing about electronics - should I get in touch with an electrician? I live in a town and there aren't many options. I've asked a music instrument shop and a place where electric and electronic components are sold; the former said there was no Korg 'SAT' (I don't know what that stands for) and the latter said that they didn't have a warehouse or place where they fixed electronic devices such as mine. Instead, they offered me a can with some kind of thing that helps erase the humidity in an electronic device; I told them that I thought it was humidity what has damaged my synth. I'm pretty confused. Thanks in advance for reading this...
@@CollapsingRealities An electrician is not going to know how to deal with this. I would highly suggest an electronics tech familiar with synthesizers. Failing that, a decent computer electronics tech with some modicum of diagnostic skills could likely sort it out as well. I doubt it is humidity related.
Is there any reason why this is better than good ole rubbing alcohol for synths?
Rubbing alcohol will damage and/or dissolve many types of paint used on synths, and it can also weaken/dissolve certain types of plastics - especially those with high rubber content, like that which is used on knobs. If your synth has wood with a lacquer finish, rubbing alcohol can cause the finish to become cloudy. The cleaner I show also leaves behind a protective coating that rubbing alcohol certainly does not.
@@ScottsSynthStuff i'm using 99.9% alcohol to clean my synths since 40 years.. never had any problem with it.. never used it on rubber parts or on the keys itself though, but its always nice to get some new ideas.. thanx for the tip!
I found a Yamaha pss-170 keyboard. The output stage is so dirty through the on board speaker and through the headphone jack.Any suggestions on how to get a cleaner output? All the capacitors seem fine no bloated caps. I did a complete tear down and cleaning. Also tried different voltages 9-12v on the wall warts. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I know it’s a cheap keyboard, but I’m running it through my Mpc sampler adding effects to spice up this mediocre keyboard.
I have a Korg Polysix sitting for years now. It worked before I let my brother use it years ago. It powers up, but thats it. Sad.
Biker too! You need to get yourself to the Isle of Man TT ;-)
I’m not a biker but the IoM TT must be the pinnacle of motorsport. Unreal talent 👍
I would so love to see it one day!
Bucket list item for sure.
Hi Scott! Amazing video. Quick question. I have an Arturia MatrixBrute and it has this rubber-ish knobs and sliders (not sure if you are familiar with them). The thing is that I feel like they've been getting stickier over time. Would you recommend this product to clean my MatrixBrute rubber knobs and sliders?
If you're talking about "stiction" where it takes more force to "break them free" when you first start moving them, then yes, this would definitely help.
@@ScottsSynthStuff Hi Scott, thanks for your reply. No actually I meant more like a sticky feeling to the touch. They are kind of sticky on my fingers, which is not very pleasant to touch. Also other synth like the Moogs (I think the Sub-Phatty) that have rubbery sides have that.
@@mscherer1586 ah, sticky rubber syndrome. You can try rubbing alcohol to remove the sticky layer of devulcanized rubber, but there is really no fix for this other than replacement.
Hi Scott, what about eg MODX with the matt finish?
I've used it on my MODX, it works great. Once it dries, it looks exactly like it did before, just clean.
Hi, I have spelled a full cop hot coffee on the keys on my expensive keyboard, and after that it does not want to start. The whole keyboard is dead. Is it worth it to send it for repair, and if so can it be to expensive? or it's done?
There's no way of knowing without taking it apart.
What are your thoughts around HONDA 08732-SCP00 Spray Cleaner and Polish cancer warning?
My thoughts are that California cancer warnings are completely irrelevant, as they basically list pretty much EVERYTHING as causing cancer. If it contains plastic, pretty much any chemical, metal, whatever, California mandates that it have that cancer warning on it. The end result is that just about everything we buy today has that useless cancer warning printed on it - which in effect means that the warning is meaningless.
I appreciate the reply, thanks!
Order placed
How about deoxit d5 for electronics parts?
What about WD-40? I have been using that for years on everything electronic
Never EVER use WD-40 on electronics! WD-40 is not a contact cleaner, it is a water displacement agent originally designed to prevent rockets from rusting. The way it does this is by leaving behind a sticky, oily goo after the carrier evaporates. This oily coating prevents oxidation. However, it also does one other thing really well: it attracts and captures dust and dirt.
So while you may get temporary relief from using WD-40 on pots and switches because the carrier helps wash away contaminants (just like a proper electrical contact cleaner does), it then leaves behind a sticky oily coating that attracts even more contaminants, and before you know it, your switch/slider/pot is now noisy and malfunctioning.
@@ScottsSynthStuff The WD-40 Contact Cleaner (not regular WD-40) says to be alcohol based not leaving any residue.
Too bad, this product is not sold in France 😟
That's unfortunate. I wonder if it is available from a US seller? Probably far too expensive if it is.
What is the UK equivalent?
Anyone know a uk equivalent?, eBay is asking £75 postage on a couple cans!!!
Paint brush
✨🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🎼🎵🎹🎵🎹.... really...!???