This is the only video I've seen explain in BARS and not psi. Read things after I leaned that .3 bars is OK on ekwb tester, I still did .5 just to be sure. Everyone else (youtube, reddit, etc says 10psi up to 20psi(which is like 1.37 bars!). Thank you for saying that!
Even after many years of water cooling my PC's, with new tech coming out and new (and oftentimes more creative) ways of doing the same thing your channel shines new light when it comes to building a custom PC water cooling loop.... now if only I had both the space (and no neighbors to worry about) to be able to have the type of tools you folks use to create the PC art you do. Keep up the great work bit-tech :-)
Excellent video! Are you still going to make a video on constructing a digital leak tester? I'd like to build one, but I'm not exactly sure what components to get.
How I have seen leak checks done with pressurized gas filled systems (not PCs), but still might be handy is, you take some soapy water and squirt it at the fittings. If there is air leaking it will blow bubbles through the soapy water. Obviously with PCs you would have to be really careful by using loads of paper towels and not using too much water, but this could help isolate a possible leak rather effectively. I haven't tried this on a PC myself, but would consider it considering how much more catastrophic a liquid leak check could be.
I have all the components for my first open loop on the way and I have to say, using air pressure to spot leaks is a *really* good idea. You should drop a link to that air pump and gauge combo in the description! I'd totally pick one up to uncheck my first loop before I start pouring in coolant.
What I like to do (especially on hard line builds) is start at the res and install the drain valve and line. Then build out in order from there. As you go, leak test each new run you install. So if your first run is from the res to the GPU, install the line and put a plug in the out port of the GPU. Then use a pump like in the video or just blow into the drain line. Make sure you have a good seal between your mouth and the drain line and hold the pressure for maybe ten seconds. If there is a sizeable leak, you'll feel the pressure drop. If you don't feel anything, close the drain valve. This traps the air pressure in there. Let it sit awhile (whatever you're comfortable with). I like to let it sit while I measure and bend the next run. When you're ready, open the valve. If the pressure is still there, you'll hear the air rush out of the system in a fairly substantial whoosh. Repeat this method as you build and do it one last time after everything is put together, letting it sit the last time for a few hours or over night. You can't over pressurize the system with your lungs, so don't worry about damaging anything and the biocide in the coolant will take care of any bacteria you introduce. This method lets you know right away where a leak is and makes you about a confident as possible when finally filling the loop.
I use the same method for pressure testing each part of my loop as I build it. Shoot forward to 4 40 on my video, I guess its the same way as you describe. th-cam.com/video/3gOwW4fK-qw/w-d-xo.html
@@bittech1 this was a great guide! can you still do the guide on how to make the air pressure gauge for the leak tester? i have a really large computer in the thermaltake view 71 case and it's about 100lbs so draining it is ridiculously difficult! this would save me alot of time and money. i know that ek makes one but its pretty expensive.
@@michaelhughes9278 Honestly I'd just buy the EK one. I haven't done the guide yet as when I made one, I realised I needed so many parts and tools that it just wasn't worth it. Mine works okay, but it was such a pain to source everything, you end up saving like £10, which is all lost when you factor in the time to make it.
@@bittech1 oh that sucks. yeah, I've been looking at the ek leak tester that i saw and its pretty expensive so i was hoping for a cheaper solution. i liked the Dr drop that you showed in this video though and its 20 dollars cheaper! but i think i'm going to go with just a syringe to push air into the loop and a dash of hope. thanks for the quick reply and i love your channel! you should do a colab with linus or jayz2cents for some exposure!
@@michaelhughes9278 For occasional use the Dr Drop works well, the main issue with it is that the thread for the pump is very fragile, it can strip or snap during use quite easily so just be careful.
As always, quality content there :)! Worth noting that some of the Dr.Drop units could possibly be leaking themselves - some people reported. Mine holds great tho. One good tip I would add is to be first air testing individual components before you put them in, and then also air test as you go, meaning you put some blocks together then you do short 15min test to see if everything is all right meanwhile focusing on something else. Makes it easier to spot errors as you go especially if you putting up your first build.
Definitely good points there! Testing blocks individually isn’t a bad move at all, although because of the tiny air volume it can be a bit tricky at times thanks to the Dr Drop’s valve design, I guess a good compromise is adding something like a reservoir or radiator in just to add more air volume.
@@bittech1 True. The workaround I found that worked best for me was I've put a valve fitting inbetween Dr.Drop and the block with a longer tube to the block as well. So order would be like Pressure Tester - Valve - 30-40cm tube - Block. Then just pumped the air, closed the valve, disconnected the pump, then SLOWLY opened the valve. Then it's just easy way to adjust the pressure to fit the 0.5 bar. This made testing even a small block like CPU not an impossible task. Need to be careful with the pump pressure as the air volume is still relatively low but other than that no issues.
13:00 When testing a loop with air-pressure you can also put a small dab of soapy water around all of your fittings -- if there's an air-leak you'll see it start to blow little bubbles!
Thanks! A simple question... I tried to order one from EK, but it's on hold since they don't have it in stock. However, I need to setup my system asap (and it would cost around 100$ CAD for another brand of leak tester)... It's been 5 years since this clip, but I couldn't find the one you talk about near the end regarding building your own air pressure leak tester. A link please?
Nice relaxing tutorial. Question. I have an adapter with the jumpers on the 4th and 5th spot (#16/17), an EVGA adapter at the 3rd and 4th slot and and a jumper with a switch at the 4th and 6th position. Additionally, you say to use slots 3/4 and others say 4/5. Why the differences?
wherewould i connect the aio pump or 3 pin fan-header looking wire to, rather htan just the molex wire that powers the pump. I'd have to have the motherboard on for that, whic his a no-no because well.. incase something leaks and I want to test. do i somehow connect it to another cable to the psu? it's an alphacool DDC310 with a mini res and ujt60 140mm rad. PLEASE HELP! Watercooling noob here.
Dig the smooth jazz music. Who is the artist/sound track? I ordered the test pump and will test each component separately this time around vs running fluid in the system to test for leaks. Also, I apply plumbing grease on all the O rings to reduce the chance of damaging them during installation.
What advice can you give about tightening fittings and screws into acrylic distro plates. I'm a first time builder using a front distro plate and I'm honestly terrified I'm going to get cracks from user error. Any advice here from an expert regarding properly tightening fittings would be a huge help!!! Thanks!!!
I am using leak tester too. my loop holds fine at 0.5 ~ 0.53 bar mark. However, if i go any higher one of my loop pops out pushing tube away from the fitting itself. Some said 0.7 bar is safe but you mentioned 0.5.
I'm about to do my first water cooling setup using two gpu's and cpu loop config, removing the risk of water leaking onto a component is a no brainer! Been anxious about doing watercooling due to leak testing, the leap of faith if you may call it that. Due to multiple fans on the gpu's has bad bearings or fan motor, also getting somewhat toasty running the stock cooler, it's either getting waterblocks and running a loop or risking being without a pc for a while. ( Also, what would you do in this situation? in terms of having bad fans on the gpu. ) I can't thank you enough for the info!
Need some help ASAP!!! So fairly new to the air testing. I have build the loop and it leaks very slightly over the course of 2 hours it drops from mid green on the ek tester to the start. 0.5bar But I mean it very slight. How much air is acceptable to lose or should it not leak at all?
Was so painful... Oh... So painful to get a leak on my motherboard, replace it, remake the loop and leak test it again. But thank you for this guide. I will never cut corners again.
had a catastrophic leak once. had to use a multiport-fitting and forgot to plug one of the unused ports all the way. ended up with about 1-2cm deep "sea" of coolant in my psu.
Is some leakage normal over a 24 hour period when air testing? Mine is very minimal but I'm wondering if it will matter since water has a higher viscosity.
I love the idea but finding the pressure tester in Canada seems extremely difficult or way more expensive. So I guess im sticking with the water method sadly.
Haha I actually have forgot a stop fitting and gotten distilled water all over a motherboard before. Lesson learned even seasoned builders make rookie mistakes😂
Thanks, very handy info! A guide to make our own would be nice, but for those of us in the US, it seems only expensive BSP/NPT adapters that are shipped from overseas are available. Shame since Dr. Drop is scarce.
Performance PCs usually has them in stock. For making your own you can actually drill into a manifold fitting and tap the threads manually, works well and is pretty simple. The Dr Drop is more straightforward, doing one yourself gives you more control though.
@@bittech1 Hey, thanks for the reply/idea! I decide to go for it. I do have the g1/4 tap since I am making my own reservoir. (thanks to the bit-tech guide!) As I failed to find PSI gauges locally for cheap, I just went and bought a gas leak set up per-assambled. Just needed to source the rest of the parts and it came out to be 13.07USD (well, +3.87 for a fitting with plug to hook up to test the gauge and hook into my loop) I'll keep looking to see if I can find the individual parts for cheap and return what I got. Still, 13.07 is cheaper than 20 + 5 from shipping costs.
A small leak can be detected the same way you test gas connections. Just use some soapy water and put it on the fittings. Small bubbles will indicate a leak.
Not really, but you can use a full size bicycle pump to do that if you're careful. Just be sure that there's a suitable exit point for the fluid/air if you do as a large pump can easily over-pressurise the system.
I don't think you ended up doing the video on how to create a pressure tester. I checked the videos on the channel from this 1 up until the most recent and couldn't find it...
Just get a Dr Drop or the EK Leak Tester, not worth making one. I ended up making one but it became such a ball ache, became a case of "Now here as you can see I have every tool you could need".
i' ve use this pressure test to my first ever hard pipe wc.. until now can find where my pressure leaks.. i might dissassemble the whole thing again in weekend.
I can’t work out 1 thing, how would your motherboard be getting power to power the pump that’s connected to the motherboard if the motherboard isn’t connected with the connector?
O1:09 tells you why. I go into it in more detail in the video on making a bridging plug too. The PSU won't switch on unless it's connected to a motherboard 24 pin header, or tricked into thinking it is.
If you have a GPU watercooled, why would you take it out if you want to see if the leak test is successful for the whole loop? Taking out the ram is easy for soft tube, but hard tubes its impossible due to all the angle bends
You can run the pump dry just fine... it won't overheat at all. The ceramic bearing it runs on can withstand temps over over 400c, the pump won't ever get past 40c dry in a confined space. The notion of pumps can't run dry is so annoying to see youtubers repeat this bs. Also the standard rad pressure is 4 bars, if your rads breaking at 0.6 bar.. its a cheap chinese one.
@@jeffreydesormeaux3539 Ive asked around on forums and seems like attaching a long tube, blowing into it and trying to feel if it leaks with your lungs is the best free alternative to a leak tester! Just keep in mind the tissue + distilled water test later on, still do that.
What a hassle!! Thats why i kept away from water coolled I rather stick to air cooler Got dusty? Well just blow it with compressed air or something Just 10 minutes And done
It's more for those who want to over clock. Those systems can remove much more thermal energy than any air cooler could dream of. An 8 all core over clock throws out a lot of heat. Add in a graphics card or two and you're really cooking.
I suspect you loose a lot of viewers by taking 30 minutes to explain what should take 2 minutes. Killed us with too much info and doesn’t make you look smart but makes the user feel talked down to and annoyed.
If people don’t want a thorough video they can just go with all the other tech tubers who try to inform about watercooling. I know for a fact this video has helped a lot of people, that’s good enough for me.
That device is so overpriced. Both EK and Alphacool just buy theirs from china for less than 10 prob. less than 5 bucks and try to charge 30+ shipping. I will adapt a normal 1/4 pressure gage and a bike pump. Those ass***** are not getting my money.
Having made one, I decided I’m only buying them in the future. So much less hassle, that’s the main reason I never did another video on it. It just became a huge faff and started involving too much going on
Love how they really go into the small but important details. Just like their builds
GE PLAYER Agreed 😉
Thanks a lot for details
Came for water cooling, stayed for the mustache
This is the only video I've seen explain in BARS and not psi. Read things after I leaned that .3 bars is OK on ekwb tester, I still did .5 just to be sure. Everyone else (youtube, reddit, etc says 10psi up to 20psi(which is like 1.37 bars!). Thank you for saying that!
Even after many years of water cooling my PC's, with new tech coming out and new (and oftentimes more creative) ways of doing the same thing your channel shines new light when it comes to building a custom PC water cooling loop.... now if only I had both the space (and no neighbors to worry about) to be able to have the type of tools you folks use to create the PC art you do.
Keep up the great work bit-tech :-)
You don't know but in 2 years you and this video save my pc, I love you man
Excellent video! Are you still going to make a video on constructing a digital leak tester? I'd like to build one, but I'm not exactly sure what components to get.
A year later and no info. :-( Come on @bit-tech give us the parts list!
How I have seen leak checks done with pressurized gas filled systems (not PCs), but still might be handy is, you take some soapy water and squirt it at the fittings. If there is air leaking it will blow bubbles through the soapy water. Obviously with PCs you would have to be really careful by using loads of paper towels and not using too much water, but this could help isolate a possible leak rather effectively. I haven't tried this on a PC myself, but would consider it considering how much more catastrophic a liquid leak check could be.
Aye this works really well if you're careful, I've started doing the same recently and it's such a time saver.
I have all the components for my first open loop on the way and I have to say, using air pressure to spot leaks is a *really* good idea. You should drop a link to that air pump and gauge combo in the description! I'd totally pick one up to uncheck my first loop before I start pouring in coolant.
was searching too
th-cam.com/video/byR9Hrg0h-0/w-d-xo.html
What I like to do (especially on hard line builds) is start at the res and install the drain valve and line. Then build out in order from there. As you go, leak test each new run you install. So if your first run is from the res to the GPU, install the line and put a plug in the out port of the GPU. Then use a pump like in the video or just blow into the drain line. Make sure you have a good seal between your mouth and the drain line and hold the pressure for maybe ten seconds. If there is a sizeable leak, you'll feel the pressure drop. If you don't feel anything, close the drain valve. This traps the air pressure in there. Let it sit awhile (whatever you're comfortable with). I like to let it sit while I measure and bend the next run. When you're ready, open the valve. If the pressure is still there, you'll hear the air rush out of the system in a fairly substantial whoosh. Repeat this method as you build and do it one last time after everything is put together, letting it sit the last time for a few hours or over night. You can't over pressurize the system with your lungs, so don't worry about damaging anything and the biocide in the coolant will take care of any bacteria you introduce.
This method lets you know right away where a leak is and makes you about a confident as possible when finally filling the loop.
I use the same method for pressure testing each part of my loop as I build it.
Shoot forward to 4 40 on my video, I guess its the same way as you describe.
th-cam.com/video/3gOwW4fK-qw/w-d-xo.html
Hey there Bit-tech! Still waiting for your video on how to make your own "Dr. Drop System". Thank you!!!
I was searching the comments to see if there was a link to that video wonder if it's out yet LOL
There was some info in this that was useful: th-cam.com/video/byR9Hrg0h-0/w-d-xo.html
@@AndrewCislak that was an excellent video thank you very much.
Since the time of writing this I had purchased a Barrow leak tester and it works great
this guy is a real teacher, how come this video is not more popular?
I used one of those testers recently. Worked great.
Not sure if that was aimed at BitWit or not, but that was what i pictured in my head.
What no, never...
@@bittech1 this was a great guide! can you still do the guide on how to make the air pressure gauge for the leak tester? i have a really large computer in the thermaltake view 71 case and it's about 100lbs so draining it is ridiculously difficult! this would save me alot of time and money. i know that ek makes one but its pretty expensive.
@@michaelhughes9278 Honestly I'd just buy the EK one. I haven't done the guide yet as when I made one, I realised I needed so many parts and tools that it just wasn't worth it. Mine works okay, but it was such a pain to source everything, you end up saving like £10, which is all lost when you factor in the time to make it.
@@bittech1 oh that sucks. yeah, I've been looking at the ek leak tester that i saw and its pretty expensive so i was hoping for a cheaper solution. i liked the Dr drop that you showed in this video though and its 20 dollars cheaper! but i think i'm going to go with just a syringe to push air into the loop and a dash of hope. thanks for the quick reply and i love your channel! you should do a colab with linus or jayz2cents for some exposure!
@@michaelhughes9278 For occasional use the Dr Drop works well, the main issue with it is that the thread for the pump is very fragile, it can strip or snap during use quite easily so just be careful.
Nice video, could you please post a link to the DIY dr. drop video? Thanks.
Very clear, concise and relaxed video to be fair.
As always, quality content there :)!
Worth noting that some of the Dr.Drop units could possibly be leaking themselves - some people reported. Mine holds great tho.
One good tip I would add is to be first air testing individual components before you put them in, and then also air test as you go, meaning you put some blocks together then you do short 15min test to see if everything is all right meanwhile focusing on something else. Makes it easier to spot errors as you go especially if you putting up your first build.
Definitely good points there! Testing blocks individually isn’t a bad move at all, although because of the tiny air volume it can be a bit tricky at times thanks to the Dr Drop’s valve design, I guess a good compromise is adding something like a reservoir or radiator in just to add more air volume.
@@bittech1 True. The workaround I found that worked best for me was I've put a valve fitting inbetween Dr.Drop and the block with a longer tube to the block as well. So order would be like Pressure Tester - Valve - 30-40cm tube - Block.
Then just pumped the air, closed the valve, disconnected the pump, then SLOWLY opened the valve. Then it's just easy way to adjust the pressure to fit the 0.5 bar.
This made testing even a small block like CPU not an impossible task. Need to be careful with the pump pressure as the air volume is still relatively low but other than that no issues.
13:00 When testing a loop with air-pressure you can also put a small dab of soapy water around all of your fittings -- if there's an air-leak you'll see it start to blow little bubbles!
Good stuff! Looking forward to seeing the DIY dr. drop video!
With the easy listening jazz in the back you make custom cooling tutorials sexy. Keep up the good work.
Thanks! A simple question... I tried to order one from EK, but it's on hold since they don't have it in stock. However, I need to setup my system asap (and it would cost around 100$ CAD for another brand of leak tester)... It's been 5 years since this clip, but I couldn't find the one you talk about near the end regarding building your own air pressure leak tester. A link please?
Did you do a video on building your own leak tester? would like to see that
Nice relaxing tutorial. Question. I have an adapter with the jumpers on the 4th and 5th spot (#16/17), an EVGA adapter at the 3rd and 4th slot and and a jumper with a switch at the 4th and 6th position. Additionally, you say to use slots 3/4 and others say 4/5. Why the differences?
wherewould i connect the aio pump or 3 pin fan-header looking wire to, rather htan just the molex wire that powers the pump. I'd have to have the motherboard on for that, whic his a no-no because well.. incase something leaks and I want to test. do i somehow connect it to another cable to the psu? it's an alphacool DDC310 with a mini res and ujt60 140mm rad. PLEASE HELP! Watercooling noob here.
Dig the smooth jazz music. Who is the artist/sound track? I ordered the test pump and will test each component separately this time around vs running fluid in the system to test for leaks. Also, I apply plumbing grease on all the O rings to reduce the chance of damaging them during installation.
Plan in building a custom loop in a level 20 XT so this method will definitely help me out with such a cavernous case
This was really helpful throughout! Thanks !!!
great informational video
Very useful Gadget! Thank u i definitely gonna buy one for my first custom watercooling ! :)
What advice can you give about tightening fittings and screws into acrylic distro plates. I'm a first time builder using a front distro plate and I'm honestly terrified I'm going to get cracks from user error. Any advice here from an expert regarding properly tightening fittings would be a huge help!!! Thanks!!!
Wouldn't it be better to test the pressure on installed loop so that we eliminate issues and changes that could occur during installation?
I am using leak tester too. my loop holds fine at 0.5 ~ 0.53 bar mark. However, if i go any higher one of my loop pops out pushing tube away from the fitting itself. Some said 0.7 bar is safe but you mentioned 0.5.
I'm about to do my first water cooling setup using two gpu's and cpu loop config, removing the risk of water leaking onto a component is a no brainer!
Been anxious about doing watercooling due to leak testing, the leap of faith if you may call it that.
Due to multiple fans on the gpu's has bad bearings or fan motor, also getting somewhat toasty running the stock cooler, it's either getting waterblocks and running a loop or risking being without a pc for a while. ( Also, what would you do in this situation? in terms of having bad fans on the gpu. )
I can't thank you enough for the info!
Need some help ASAP!!! So fairly new to the air testing.
I have build the loop and it leaks very slightly over the course of 2 hours it drops from mid green on the ek tester to the start. 0.5bar But I mean it very slight. How much air is acceptable to lose or should it not leak at all?
Was so painful... Oh... So painful to get a leak on my motherboard, replace it, remake the loop and leak test it again. But thank you for this guide. I will never cut corners again.
recently I tested the radiators on the 1.5-2 bar... survived: D was only heard like rustling :) and after a while it was ok.
Actually had all my stop fittings installed......one was just a wee bit loose when I powered the old girl on 😂😂
You can also use the good old soapy water Where it's bobble up is where the leak is ( if your useing the air method)
Are you planning on making the video on how to make a custom Dr drop?
Hi
Can you give us link .. where to buy the air pressure gauge you use in video ??
Thank you
I need translate, Hiii from Uruguay. I love your videos!!
Can something like the DR drop's gauge be installed in a loop permanently to act as an indicator for the user that loop maintenance may be required?
You could do a binary search of those four components on the bench air test, rather than going straight to individual components.
I have a very slow leak, as I left it over night and it only dropped a little bit, so now going to have fun fund where it's leaking
Getting strong Salvador Dalí vibes.
Thanks a lot for details
Great advice! Thanks!
that leak tester is sold out everywhere :). Is there a alternative device to test with
I'm doing my very first leak test right now as I type this. 3 to 24 hours to go... This is somewhat nerve-wracking. :)
im trying to do this and jumping the cables is not turning my pump on?
do yo have a parts list for the custom dr drop please
had a catastrophic leak once. had to use a multiport-fitting and forgot to plug one of the unused ports all the way. ended up with about 1-2cm deep "sea" of coolant in my psu.
What size of soft tubing do you use for this?
In psi please thank you! Is it 7psi?
Is some leakage normal over a 24 hour period when air testing? Mine is very minimal but I'm wondering if it will matter since water has a higher viscosity.
Did you ever find out the answer to that question? I'm having some air leak out very slowing like 0.2 bar every 6 to 7 hours.
what do you do if you do detect a leak and you have tightened everything as much as possible?
I love the idea but finding the pressure tester in Canada seems extremely difficult or way more expensive. So I guess im sticking with the water method sadly.
How about the EK one? Might have more availability
Haha I actually have forgot a stop fitting and gotten distilled water all over a motherboard before. Lesson learned even seasoned builders make rookie mistakes😂
Thanks, very handy info!
A guide to make our own would be nice, but for those of us in the US, it seems only expensive BSP/NPT adapters that are shipped from overseas are available. Shame since Dr. Drop is scarce.
Performance PCs usually has them in stock. For making your own you can actually drill into a manifold fitting and tap the threads manually, works well and is pretty simple. The Dr Drop is more straightforward, doing one yourself gives you more control though.
@@bittech1 Hey, thanks for the reply/idea! I decide to go for it. I do have the g1/4 tap since I am making my own reservoir. (thanks to the bit-tech guide!) As I failed to find PSI gauges locally for cheap, I just went and bought a gas leak set up per-assambled. Just needed to source the rest of the parts and it came out to be 13.07USD (well, +3.87 for a fitting with plug to hook up to test the gauge and hook into my loop) I'll keep looking to see if I can find the individual parts for cheap and return what I got. Still, 13.07 is cheaper than 20 + 5 from shipping costs.
A small leak can be detected the same way you test gas connections. Just use some soapy water and put it on the fittings. Small bubbles will indicate a leak.
can i use that leak tester to get water out of a loop for cleaning the loop?
Not really, but you can use a full size bicycle pump to do that if you're careful. Just be sure that there's a suitable exit point for the fluid/air if you do as a large pump can easily over-pressurise the system.
this is genius !
I don't think you ended up doing the video on how to create a pressure tester. I checked the videos on the channel from this 1 up until the most recent and couldn't find it...
Just get a Dr Drop or the EK Leak Tester, not worth making one. I ended up making one but it became such a ball ache, became a case of "Now here as you can see I have every tool you could need".
i' ve use this pressure test to my first ever hard pipe wc.. until now can find where my pressure leaks.. i might dissassemble the whole thing again in weekend.
Did you ever make the video on how to make your own leak tester?
if have leak use soap bubble the fitting and watch
This is a good technique
do you have a link to a video showing how to do this? i have a leak somewhere and have tried for hours finding it but to no avail :(
I can’t work out 1 thing, how would your motherboard be getting power to power the pump that’s connected to the motherboard if the motherboard isn’t connected with the connector?
It's plugged into the power supply.
Very useful video, music is very annoying though
Why did you put the paper clip in the 24 pin cable?
O1:09 tells you why. I go into it in more detail in the video on making a bridging plug too. The PSU won't switch on unless it's connected to a motherboard 24 pin header, or tricked into thinking it is.
@ 10:04 Did he say TEN bar?! That's 147 psi!
Should I just remove my graphics card while doing leak tests?
So for those in North America who use PSI, 0.5 Bar = 7.25 PSI & 0.6 Bar = 8.7 PSI.
Thanks
Where is that future video? =D
This guy mustaches.
Awesome
Why not take out important parts altogether like RAM and GPU?
If you have a GPU watercooled, why would you take it out if you want to see if the leak test is successful for the whole loop?
Taking out the ram is easy for soft tube, but hard tubes its impossible due to all the angle bends
wish I saw this before I leak tested my build...
I just use a wall plug power supply with probes into the water pump plug
One thing that confuses me.
You put the paperclip in 3 and 4. But the plugs you can buy are in 4 and 5, why is that.
There are several different pins that work.
@@bittech1 so my bridge plug wich have the wires 4 and 5 bridged should work fine for any atx powersupply?
You said 3rd and 4th pins, I've always been told forth and fifth pins
Where is the video he is telling us how to make your own leak tester xD
Lets be honest, we searched for these one time moustache...
You can run the pump dry just fine... it won't overheat at all. The ceramic bearing it runs on can withstand temps over over 400c, the pump won't ever get past 40c dry in a confined space. The notion of pumps can't run dry is so annoying to see youtubers repeat this bs.
Also the standard rad pressure is 4 bars, if your rads breaking at 0.6 bar.. its a cheap chinese one.
Use leak spray
I’m pretty sure that ‘look at me’ mustache is what’s keeping your channel from growing.
What are you on about?
He never even showed us how to make a pressure tester :(
yeah i was just searching for it too:(
@@TheVFXAssault I spent an hour searching for it :(.
I really don't want to pay $30-$40 for a gauge and a fitting :(
@@jeffreydesormeaux3539 Ive asked around on forums and seems like attaching a long tube, blowing into it and trying to feel if it leaks with your lungs is the best free alternative to a leak tester! Just keep in mind the tissue + distilled water test later on, still do that.
Dat 'tache has more pressure than any loop
What a hassle!!
Thats why i kept away from water coolled
I rather stick to air cooler
Got dusty?
Well just blow it with compressed air or something
Just 10 minutes
And done
It's more for those who want to over clock. Those systems can remove much more thermal energy than any air cooler could dream of. An 8 all core over clock throws out a lot of heat. Add in a graphics card or two and you're really cooking.
mustache
WTF is with that mustache
This guy has great info but I cannot look at him. His mustache bugs me so bad that I cannot subscribe.
I suspect you loose a lot of viewers by taking 30 minutes to explain what should take 2 minutes. Killed us with too much info and doesn’t make you look smart but makes the user feel talked down to and annoyed.
If people don’t want a thorough video they can just go with all the other tech tubers who try to inform about watercooling. I know for a fact this video has helped a lot of people, that’s good enough for me.
why do you have zip ties on your face?
That device is so overpriced. Both EK and Alphacool just buy theirs from china for less than 10 prob. less than 5 bucks and try to charge 30+ shipping. I will adapt a normal 1/4 pressure gage and a bike pump. Those ass***** are not getting my money.
Having made one, I decided I’m only buying them in the future. So much less hassle, that’s the main reason I never did another video on it. It just became a huge faff and started involving too much going on
Awesome