FYI: After opening up the drive I'm now pretty sure the fan was setup to run from the start. There is probably a firmware setting that can change this behavior but that will be hard to figure out. I'm planning to install a variable resister with a on/off switch get rid of the noise. Have a look inside: th-cam.com/video/GXNwD2YVbpM/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for taking your valuable time to review the product. Very informative. I can hear how the frequency noise can be annoying, my cats did not like the noise either. LOL.
The extra terminals are usually for DC Bus connection, it's only used in more complex applications like braking resistor, regenerative or VFDs in parallel
The VFD does have a build in brake resistor. I should say, did have. Because Christmas 2018 it died with a flash and a bang. Probably because I disconnected the internal fan.
You had it easy, really. The one I got had several segments of the LED display not working. Imagine the hours of fun I had working with it before I realized which didn't work.
I know this is a few years old, but I had to start reading somewhere and I'm going down the VFD road to power a band saw conversion. I have a 10:1 parallel shaft gearbox that I will chain drive to the lower wheel on the saw that drives the blade wheel and a 1.5hp, 1725 rpm, 208-230V, 3ph (new) motor. I gave $40 shipped for the new gearbox and $50 shipped for the new motor (not bad) and the blade speed will be max 650 sfpm. The noise issue with the motor is a big deal for me (and the fan). I hope my new Leeson motor will work ok with the VFD. I see VFD's selling on ebay for $73 or so but I will definitely need to see a review like this before I would order one. The last thing I can think of is the color. Everyone knows what happens to the light colored plastic after a few years they look terrible and the black color holds up the best. There are small squirrel cage fans that are really quiet and definitely put out. I hope you have made another review more recent but thanks for this one so I am aware of the issues. Good job.
I've just bought another VFD to replace the one I had for 20 years and sold with a Deckel T&C grinder I had because it's 3 phase and would sell for single phase application more easily...... it's a 2.2Kw 3 HP model currently listed on Amazon for A$80. When I connected it up to a 1 Hp 3 phase motor the cooling fan came on immediately and is whisper quiet. I can't understand why so many people have so much trouble just getting these things to work. Right from the word go it did what was expected and speeded up and down very smoothly......AND DEAD QUIET TOO even with a small load on. I might add that the 3 phase motor it's connected to is wired to the VFD in Delta formation. I'm on single phase 220 volt mains.
Looks like the newer model of the same VFD is called WK-9000 (instead of NF-9000). I just bought a 2.2KW (3HP) variant of it. The fan still runs continuously and there is still no ground terminal. But it's easy enough to work around these two problems, so in my opinion this is still a good buy at the low price that it's selling.
They obviously haven't seen my video. Making the same mistakes again :) To work around the issues you probably void you warranty. Hopefully you won't run into problems. I rather like my new VFD drive and I really appropriate it when I'm using my wood lathe that uses the old drive. A hell of noise :)
Temperature sensor is on the heatsink. You can replace the fan with one the same case size, input voltage rating, and lower air flow rating. If you can find one with sleeve bearings, it will be even quieter. On my HY VFDs, only the higher kW models have the fan on/off controls implemented, but the same firmware is installed in all drives. Only the default values change from model to model.
I was thinking about installing a bigger computer case cooling fan. Those run at a slower speed and should make less noise. Unfortunately I need to fully dissemble the drive to get to the fan wires.
Disassembly is not too difficult. However, you could also consider cutting the wires and splicing them or installing a connector. Heatshrink insulation makes the splice option practical and safe. You will find that any particular cooling fan outline shape has many operating voltage and airflow combinations. In addition, you can often select ball bearing and sleeve bearing types. Sleeve bearings are much quieter. Fan blade count (more is better) and fan trailing edge also affect acoustics. The power supply for the fan is electrically isolated from the mains.
Since you have access to the 2 screws affixing the fan, you may or may not be able to get access to the wires without more disassembly. My HY VFDs are very similar but not identical to your unit. There are many YT videos on 'Chinese VFD Teardown' that might be useful. Here is a verbal description of what you will probably need to do and find along the way: Remove and unplug control panel. Remove wire access cover screws and cover. Remove housing fixing screws and housing. Remove top circuit board fixing screws and screws affixing 6 IGBTs and bridge rectifier to the heatsink. Pull the circuit board assembly away from the heatsink, taking care to not break wires to the capacitor circuit board assemblies and the heatsink temperature sensor (2 leads, TO220 device usually). This will give you access to everything. I may have left out a step, but everything will be obvious except possibly the need to remove the 7 screws fastening parts to the heatsink. The DC bus capacitors all should have bleed resistors, so you can proceed with disassembly safely within a few minutes of disconnecting power.
I too was frustrated with the fan noise from my Huangyang VFD. I did as Alan Kay suggested (below) and fitted a 45 degree C bimetallic normally open switch to the heatsink and now the fan is quiet and I don't think it will ever turn on since the VFD is only running a drill press motor. The only issue was getting at the heatsink which is fully enclosed on my drive.
there would be a db noise issue is a factory. the induction motor has to be able to be controlled by a vfd or the resonance created by the high Hz damages your drive end bearing.
I think the main unit needs to be installed in a cabinet, underneath the bench, and the remote screen attached for ease of operation. If the fan is to noisy, mount it else where and duct the air in and out of the unit. and a big E stop button somewhere.
Sir, the thorough review helped me greatly. I have a knock off of that drive. I am trained by the Air Force, circa 1965, through 1985, to trouble shoot down to the component level, and repair all electronics. First I recommend external strain relief using the metal or the plastic cord restraints, to secure the two large cables on each of their side of the heat sink Second, I would trouble shoot the temperature sensor, for it seems to control the fan, and runs it all the time. Your solution will work, for now. I do buy China made tools and items, to start with, and change some items out for USA made items, when available, and our funds are saved up. There once was a 12 volt DC computer case fan, with sensor and rheostat, and there are some as NOS on ebay, or Craigslist, most likely.
For a few dollars more, I'd rather just stick with something more of a known quantity, like the Teco drives. I have my doubts that this drive would last all that long at it's 2.2kw rated capacity. And if you're using it to run a 1hp motor, then the Teco drives are the same cost, but vastly superior quality and documentation. I've been running the L510-203-H3-U on an a la carte air compressor, with a 3 HP motor for 2 years and it quietly does its job for $200. Was hoping to find something reliable and super cheap for a drill press project and I think I'm just going to buy another Teco (foregoing the 'super cheap' obviously).
It looks like you got one of the base models. Some of the better models (not this manufacture) can’ set fan all the time when VFD is powered, can set when motor is receiving power fan operation, fan comes on when unit is 10° before internal melt down 75° C, then there is the most expensive units that you can program when you want the internal fan to come on with temperature sensors. Then there is the mixture of anywhere and in between. You got a leaflet booklet. Probably 60 pages. Most of my VFDs come with 300 pages
lowering the carrier frequency can destroy the mosfets or the igbt, the deadtime needs also be changed. maybe low pass filter outside the inverter works, because it is a class D amplifier in 60 degree modes what is used or just squares in 60 degree fase shift who cause this harmonic noise. Setting the system to 8 Khz is better indeed, but the noise is lower because we hear not that good there, filtering works als better. one coil and one cap. The fact motor bearings get damaged is by harmonics, that is the bad sound you hear. three class D amps in 60 degree shift will make a hell of a regulator with low sound from motor.
A good review. Thanks. Some good features like the remote panel and the cable being included. Some really bad features like lack of ground. I would not purchase a model without a ground even though I could add the ground similar to what you did. I think the loose packaging may have caused the bend in the heat sink. I have only worked on installing my own TECO VFD on a Southbend lathe and 3 Hitachi VFD's on other peoples lathes. These all had ground and ability to have the fan turned off until a certain temperature is reached, like your manual stated. My TECO defaulted to 60 Hz so the motor ran the first time. The Hitachi's were like your VFD and defaulted to 0 Hz so the motor did not run until the frequency was increased. The default for the fan was to have this run when the VFD runs. In normal shop temperatures, It takes a good amount of load to warm up the VFD to the temperature where the fan kicks in. My TECO VFD is designed to be installed in a NEMA enclosure. I expect yours is also designed to be installed in an enclosure to guard against dust and fluids. The enclosure would normally have the strain relief for the wires. You could make a wood enclosure for the VFD, just need sufficient ventilation so design with some louvers. The lack of ground connection is likely a big issues for most electrical codes, including the NEMA code in the US. I have some corded tools which are so called "double insulated" which do not have a ground. Not my preference but it is allowed for these tools. I think any motor or VFD to operate a stationary machine like a lathe should have a ground. This is protection for the equipment and the operator.
I agree I think this drive is supposed to be installed into a cabinet. The case is fairly open and lots of dust will get in overtime. On the other hand, because it's so open it easy to blow out with some compressed air. I must say that I was rather surprised that there was no earth terminal. And I don't think the drive would get certified for the European marked. It's to bad my review model didn't really work out but I haven't given up and I'm sure I will find a use for it.
Interesting about your lack of Earth connection. In opening my 3KW Huanyang unit not only did it have the 9 terminal on the strip for a ground but also it has two screws holding the heatsink in the connection area also marked as ground connections for a total of three on it. It is CE certified. I am a bit disappointed in how the base, which is the heatsink, is mounted. Instead of the slotted mounting holes being on the bottom, they are on the top. Slide up to install is not the way to do it. Also the cooling fan is installed for blowing down instead of on the bottom blowing up. That makes me think this unit was designed to be installed flat instead of vertically. This unit does allow for either single ( shingle in Chinglish from add on instruction sheet :-) ) or three phase use which is what the 3rd screw from the left would allow. So in my case R & T or R & S or S & T can be used for single phase and all three for three phase. Notice on Banggood that Chinglish says single "phrase" on one of the 1.5KW units. :-)
the thing has two set points for the temperature control- it looks like you had the fan switch on at 22° and maybe the Unit switch off point set to 45° which is to low. can you adjust the setpoints? terrific review by the way, I'm looking to buy the exact thing.
The fan what running all the time so I disconnected it. And that probably killed the VFD after almost 2 years. I when with a flash and a bang followed by total darkness as the fuse cut out. The new one I use only runs the fan when the lathe is running. It's better although it does not have vector control. th-cam.com/video/bCJN6Pk8ydg/w-d-xo.html
Ik heb wel meer slaapverwekkende video's. Zelf slaap ik altijd erg lekker bij de video's van Keith Rucker. Zal zijn rustgevende stemgeluid zijn, denk ik :)
Just recently picked up a similar model. WK-9000. Identical issues, fan on from start and no earth. Actually seems to run fine without an earth from my initial test of it, but will add one like yours just to be safe :)
Really useful review, many thanks ! .. about the fan noise,I think you can do something about that. You already proved that it runs quite cool and in fact the fan shouldnt come on, at least with no load. and you can see what the temperature is. You can get (very cheap from internet) speed adjust kits for this type of fan (they are meant for PCs) .. actually its just a wire wound resistor, goes in series with the motor wire. You got this for free and invalidated any warranty when you drilled the hole for earth so if I was in your positition I would go for broke and remove or cut one of the wires to the motor and insert a suitable resistor (just insulate it well afterwards so no shorts. should help a lot. I also *hate* fan noise, even queit fans. eg a fan in my PC really annoys me, I want *utterly* silent. I agree, stuff we buy should ideally work right when you open the box, but given that this kind of cheapstuff often has a few minor annoyances" we have to live with them - or fix them - or we can pay ten times the price for something nice. which I cant afford A slight bend on the heatsink wouldnt bother me at all, just bend it back. I agree its annoying, un-necessary if they packed it better .. a good feedback to them, but the post cost to return it and them to send you another is far more than the bend is worth . c'est la vie, worse things happen to girls
That' s not a bad idea. To bad the fan is fastened from the inside and there is no access to the the wiring from the outside. So I would need to completely disassemble the unit.
@@Rolingmetal fair enough but i meant the plug, that you plug into the outlet...if that has no earth then earthing the chassis is pointless. But i hope the plug you showed is on camera was just a random one and not the one used for the VFD. Great video by the way, very informative.
I purchased a gt series 220v 2.2kw version, I'mbin the states, would my vfd work in the uk, or would a uk unit work in the states. In the us there is 2 live wires, each is 110v and one goes to R and the other to either S or T and a ground. In the uk there is one live wire with 220v and a neutral. Is bbn it the same unit or 2 different units one for uk and one for us. Someone help, I want to use a step up transformer because I don't have 220v at home. Thanks
Have you ever seen one in action? Hoe does it preform? Does it work better then running a single phase motor on one of the phases of a normal vfd? How about at low speed?
Hi guy. Unlucky I can't speak and understand fluently english. So... just a Q: does it works in a 3 fase, 400V motor of an little drillmill machine? It's 750W too.
i have done exactly as you did. nothing works. cant change the frequency. 😑 anyone having this problem? motor 3f hooked up correct. ive checked the 3f outgoing wires. but the read out is 0 volts.... can anyone help me or give a tip? thank you
Thank you for this usefull video, my fan runs from the start as well, but that's ok for me. It's installed in a cabinet, on the other side of a wall. So that's ok. :) The only thing I haven't figured out yet is how do I connect an external on/off switch to this device? Have you figured that out? If so, can you please explain me how? Thanks!
Does the external switch also stop and start the fan? I remember running into this problem. Never figured it out since I got used to using the buttons on the panel.
Yes, it does. Just like when you use the FDW and Stop button on the device. When the frequency hits 0.00 the fan stops too. We also use 2 devices of another brand and these turn on their fans only when needed, also the fans are more quiet. Probably that’s the difference between €125 and €600...
Hello, Can you kindly guide me that from any VFD which has output of 3-Phase 220V, can we handle speed control of 30V 6KW 3-Phase AC Motor with full torque?
Thanks man, I love the positive feedback, I'll try to make some vids now that depressing winter is over. By the way this v.f.d died with a flash and a bang, little over a year ago. Now I use this: th-cam.com/video/bCJN6Pk8ydg/w-d-xo.html
@@Rolingmetal I'm actually looking at that one myself debating, but I just about finished turning my old delta wood lathe into a metal lathe, Not perfect but for me it'll do and want to get 1 for single phase to adjust speed on a beefy 2 hp Baldor motor I installed. The old 1/2 hp bogged down way too much and lost all it's power. Keep posting vids and I'll keep watching bud :)
I think it's good little vfd but there is no vector control. If you want power at low speeds you might want something different: th-cam.com/video/gL1G8DLfzJI/w-d-xo.html So far I have not been missing the vector control :) I'm actually working a new material right now. Had a break for 3/4 months after some medical issues and the winter, but I hope to make a strong comeback :) Good luck with the wood lathe.
Hi. I put up a video showing my fix for the noisy fan. I included a card for this video here to show the tests you did to try to get the drive to overheat. I had to put a heat gun down into the heatsink to get the bi-metallic switch to close and it took nearly three minutes to get sufficient heat for the fan to start. I also changed the carrier frequency as you did and the results are much quieter than I had previously. I enjoyed watching your review and I'm glad you didn't sugar coat the faults with this VFD. My video is here: th-cam.com/video/x882vvX_L7Y/w-d-xo.html
Very well made video. I was going to do the same but couldn't get the right temperature switch at the local electronics store. In the end I just pulled of the power lead and used the VFD without a fan. In my drive there is a parameter to monitor the heat-sink temperature. For a while is checked that parameter, but the way I use my lathe/drive I doubt that the temp will ever be a problem. I am aware that this will probably shorten the lifespan of the drive but I'm o.k. with that.
I couldn't find the parameter that you used to monitor the heatsink temperature. There were two parameters on my drive which were supposed to allow for monitoring various functions. Pd170 and Pd171 were available to "display items" and "display items open" but no matter how I set them I could not get the temperature to display. As it turns out I doubt that the temperature will ever rise enough to activate the fan. I got my switches on Ebay www.ebay.com.au/itm/KSD9700-Temperature-Switch-Thermostat-Thermal-Protector-Normally-Closed-Open-MO/201993260718?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=502002814248&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
@@Preso58 10 month later and even with an "updated version" it is a no go. The fan runs all the time and no readout can be gotten on the display for temp. Also found something different that I'll have to play with. Even though mine is a 110 Volt 3KW version, when checking the factory settings, they are set to 220 Volts. And a message from Elly ( tech at HY ) says that mine can run either single or 3 phase. I have yet to see a 110V 3 phase system. Me thinks mine slipped by the QC checks on a number of things at Huanyang as the tag does say 2/3 Phase 110V even with a model number only for a "shingle " phase unit. It appears that the HY units have a slightly better build quality over the NFLixin units though.
I can always do another VFD review, as I have a coupe more rather noisy old drives in use :) Send me an email so we can discuss this. The email is on the about tab on my channel page. Although it might not show up in all countries so just in case: rolingmetal(at)gmail.com
I currently don't use an external switch. I did hookup a switch and it worked. But if I remember correctly stopping the motor didn't stop the internal cooling fan. The stop button on the panel did stop the fan. I was going to figure this out but I'm ok using the panel so I never did.
okay thank you very much, I will be using the motor in the other room so the fan shouldn't be a problem. cant you change it for a quiet one from a computer?
A computer fan won't work because it needs to be 24v. I've disconnected the fan and since I'm nor using the brake resistor I pretty sure it will be fine. It never gets to the temperature where the fan should switch on according to the manual.
You should have run it at 2300W and then see if it could cope or not, I have my seriously doubts. Not only drive a motor without any load on it that doesnt stress it at all.
That would have been a good test but I don't have the tools for that. Anyway I've been pretty happy with the VFD ever since I've unplugged that noisy fan.
Hi rolingmetal, I bought a feed pellet machine that I can’t use because it is a 240v 60hz 3phase 22kw system, I only have 1phase power supply in my country. I would like to know if a VFD would work for me and if so can you please tell me a system that can work for me. Thank you Hope someone can help me here.
Maybe some of you guys can help me. I have the same VFD (only for 0.75kw) and everything is working fine, even the motor runs, but for some reason I cannot enter new parameters. I tried exactly (!) according to the manual: -Reset to factory -PAR/ALM -> ´pick any Function, let's say F010 (motor frequency) -> choose value -> RD/WT to confirm new value. At this point the value resets to the factory value. No matter how often I try, I'm not able to enter any new values. I can pick them, they blink, then I hit RD/WT and they go back to what they were previously. Can anyone help with this? Thanks
Strange. I have no idea why this is not working for you. But if I remember correctly there are two ways to reset. Though the software and by shortening out one of the i/o pins to ground.
Thanks mate, I actually figured it out. Maybe this'll help someone else: For some reason multiple parameters that the manual tells you to change are factory locked for this version of the VFD. For instance: F009 F010 F011 (which are the motor parameters), are listed as FR/W, which means that they can only be changed by an "engineer" So partly, it is my fault for not RTFM thoroughly, on the other hand they shouldn't tell people to "set the parameters of motor" first, but not let them do it :) Thanks for your reply though. I appreciate it.
Well, the manual is bit of a hard and sometimes comedic read. But, good that you got it figured out. I forgot to ask, does your cooling fan spin all the time?
Yes it does. Spins up when starting the VFD, keeps spinning for about 10-15sek then stops and starts quite randomly. Also, the fan chafed along its housing until I loosened the screws holding the cover on... Otherwise I'm happy. I mean: 85€...
Volgens mij ben je een Nederlander .. ik kan het probleem met je bespreken. De ventilator in de vfd gaat automatisch aan altijd wanneer je hem start . Dat is erg irritant. Het plaatsen van het bimetaal stop de ventilator in het begin tot hij 45 warm wordt en dan slaat hij aan en als de temp weer terug zakt dan gaat hij weer automatisch uit enz. Je moet wel durven om de vfd open te maken en het bimetaalje in de kast te plaatsen.. plaatsen tussen een draad van de ventilator en het schakelaartje vastzetten op koelblok. Aluminium koelframe.. bimataal 45c te koop bij banggood of Ali succes.
I was van plan om een temperatuur gevoelige schakelaar te installeren. Maar de lokale elektronica zaak had niet de juister temperatuur schakelaar. Toen heb ik de stekker van de ventilator er maar uitgetrokken en regelmatig de temperatuur parameter gecontroleerd. De temperatuur kwam nooit in de buurt van 45 graden dus heb ik het maar zo gelaten. Mogelijk gaat de VFD nu wat eerder stuk maar dat risico accepteer ik.
I think they call it a bench lathe or a pattern makers lathe. It's basically a very big watch makers lathe. It was either made by Karger or Auerbach in Germany.
Yes, a lot of the Chinese drives look the same. Lots of brand names and perhaps only one manufacturer. Or perhaps that are all more or less cloning each others product.
That's nothing! My wood lathe is even worse. It uses the same old VFD but has a cabinet that acts as a resonance chamber. I don't do much wood turning these days :) On the homepage of my channel is an about tab, you can find an mail address there if you want to send me a private message.
lovemore munguni, i havent done refit yet to say much. btw.. Did u look up the owner manual for it? I know there r badly written in chinglish, but a good starting place..
FYI: After opening up the drive I'm now pretty sure the fan was setup to run from the start. There is probably a firmware setting that can change this behavior but that will be hard to figure out.
I'm planning to install a variable resister with a on/off switch get rid of the noise.
Have a look inside: th-cam.com/video/GXNwD2YVbpM/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for taking your valuable time to review the product. Very informative. I can hear how the frequency noise can be annoying, my cats did not like the noise either. LOL.
The extra terminals are usually for DC Bus connection, it's only used in more complex applications like braking resistor, regenerative or VFDs in parallel
The VFD does have a build in brake resistor. I should say, did have. Because Christmas 2018 it died with a flash and a bang. Probably because I disconnected the internal fan.
You had it easy, really. The one I got had several segments of the LED display not working. Imagine the hours of fun I had working with it before I realized which didn't work.
I can see how that will be super frustrating. Did you get it replaced under warranty?
I know this is a few years old, but I had to start reading somewhere and I'm going down the VFD road to power a band saw conversion. I have a 10:1 parallel shaft gearbox that I will chain drive to the lower wheel on the saw that drives the blade wheel and a 1.5hp, 1725 rpm, 208-230V, 3ph (new) motor. I gave $40 shipped for the new gearbox and $50 shipped for the new motor (not bad) and the blade speed will be max 650 sfpm. The noise issue with the motor is a big deal for me (and the fan). I hope my new Leeson motor will work ok with the VFD. I see VFD's selling on ebay for $73 or so but I will definitely need to see a review like this before I would order one. The last thing I can think of is the color. Everyone knows what happens to the light colored plastic after a few years they look terrible and the black color holds up the best. There are small squirrel cage fans that are really quiet and definitely put out. I hope you have made another review more recent but thanks for this one so I am aware of the issues. Good job.
Just a suggestion for the fan. Mount a 45C normally open bimetallic switch onto the heatsink. Should cost less that $3 and will cycle as needed
Thanks, thats a good idea. There is plenty room on the heatsink for another hole :)
www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-KSD301-Temperature-Switch-Thermostat-45-C-45-Degree-N-O-Normal-Open-/300745217393
I've just bought another VFD to replace the one I had for 20 years and sold with a Deckel T&C grinder I had because it's 3 phase and would sell for single phase application more easily...... it's a 2.2Kw 3 HP model currently listed on Amazon for A$80. When I connected it up to a 1 Hp 3 phase motor the cooling fan came on immediately and is whisper quiet. I can't understand why so many people have so much trouble just getting these things to work. Right from the word go it did what was expected and speeded up and down very smoothly......AND DEAD QUIET TOO even with a small load on. I might add that the 3 phase motor it's connected to is wired to the VFD in Delta formation. I'm on single phase 220 volt mains.
Looks like the newer model of the same VFD is called WK-9000 (instead of NF-9000). I just bought a 2.2KW (3HP) variant of it. The fan still runs continuously and there is still no ground terminal. But it's easy enough to work around these two problems, so in my opinion this is still a good buy at the low price that it's selling.
They obviously haven't seen my video. Making the same mistakes again :)
To work around the issues you probably void you warranty. Hopefully you won't run into problems.
I rather like my new VFD drive and I really appropriate it when I'm using my wood lathe that uses the old drive. A hell of noise :)
how do you install a ground terminal?
Temperature sensor is on the heatsink. You can replace the fan with one the same case size, input voltage rating, and lower air flow rating. If you can find one with sleeve bearings, it will be even quieter. On my HY VFDs, only the higher kW models have the fan on/off controls implemented, but the same firmware is installed in all drives. Only the default values change from model to model.
I was thinking about installing a bigger computer case cooling fan. Those run at a slower speed and should make less noise.
Unfortunately I need to fully dissemble the drive to get to the fan wires.
Disassembly is not too difficult. However, you could also consider cutting the wires and splicing them or installing a connector. Heatshrink insulation makes the splice option practical and safe. You will find that any particular cooling fan outline shape has many operating voltage and airflow combinations. In addition, you can often select ball bearing and sleeve bearing types. Sleeve bearings are much quieter. Fan blade count (more is better) and fan trailing edge also affect acoustics. The power supply for the fan is electrically isolated from the mains.
There is no way to get to the wires without disassembly's. But I will gather up some courage and give it a go :) Perhaps next weekend.
Since you have access to the 2 screws affixing the fan, you may or may not be able to get access to the wires without more disassembly. My HY VFDs are very similar but not identical to your unit. There are many YT videos on 'Chinese VFD Teardown' that might be useful. Here is a verbal description of what you will probably need to do and find along the way: Remove and unplug control panel. Remove wire access cover screws and cover. Remove housing fixing screws and housing. Remove top circuit board fixing screws and screws affixing 6 IGBTs and bridge rectifier to the heatsink. Pull the circuit board assembly away from the heatsink, taking care to not break wires to the capacitor circuit board assemblies and the heatsink temperature sensor (2 leads, TO220 device usually). This will give you access to everything. I may have left out a step, but everything will be obvious except possibly the need to remove the 7 screws fastening parts to the heatsink. The DC bus capacitors all should have bleed resistors, so you can proceed with disassembly safely within a few minutes of disconnecting power.
Just remove those 2 screws, and you will see that the fan wires are long enough to pull the fan away from the VFD and cut and splice the wires.
I too was frustrated with the fan noise from my Huangyang VFD. I did as Alan Kay suggested (below) and fitted a 45 degree C bimetallic normally open switch to the heatsink and now the fan is quiet and I don't think it will ever turn on since the VFD is only running a drill press motor. The only issue was getting at the heatsink which is fully enclosed on my drive.
Hi, may I help you? This is Chris INVT Group, the largest manufacturer for industrial automation equipment in China.
there would be a db noise issue is a factory. the induction motor has to be able to be controlled by a vfd or the resonance created by the high Hz damages your drive end bearing.
I think the main unit needs to be installed in a cabinet, underneath the bench, and the remote screen attached for ease of operation. If the fan is to noisy, mount it else where and duct the air in and out of the unit. and a big E stop button somewhere.
I'm sure that is the case, But amateur like me can't afford to buy a nice cabinet that would cost more than this unit :)
Sir, the thorough review helped me greatly. I have a knock off of that drive. I am trained by the Air Force, circa 1965, through 1985, to trouble shoot down to the component level, and repair all electronics.
First I recommend external strain relief using the metal or the plastic cord restraints, to secure the two large cables on each of their side of the heat sink Second, I would trouble shoot the temperature sensor, for it seems to control the fan, and runs it all the time. Your solution will work, for now. I do buy China made tools and items, to start with, and change some items out for USA made items, when available, and our funds are saved up. There once was a 12 volt DC computer case fan, with sensor and rheostat, and there are some as NOS on ebay, or Craigslist, most likely.
The Earth Terminal Is the Heat sink, you mount the Earth /Ground to the mounting feet
Mitsubishi VFD’s are very good, quiet and effective. One good thing is the manuals aren’t in chinglish
Excellent review!Thanks!!Well after 4 years maybe you have found a solution for the ground and the fan?I bought one new and it does not have a gnd...
For a few dollars more, I'd rather just stick with something more of a known quantity, like the Teco drives. I have my doubts that this drive would last all that long at it's 2.2kw rated capacity. And if you're using it to run a 1hp motor, then the Teco drives are the same cost, but vastly superior quality and documentation.
I've been running the L510-203-H3-U on an a la carte air compressor, with a 3 HP motor for 2 years and it quietly does its job for $200.
Was hoping to find something reliable and super cheap for a drill press project and I think I'm just going to buy another Teco (foregoing the 'super cheap' obviously).
It looks like you got one of the base models. Some of the better models (not this manufacture) can’ set fan all the time when VFD is powered, can set when motor is receiving power fan operation, fan comes on when unit is 10° before internal melt down 75° C, then there is the most expensive units that you can program when you want the internal fan to come on with temperature sensors. Then there is the mixture of anywhere and in between. You got a leaflet booklet. Probably 60 pages. Most of my VFDs come with 300 pages
So what are, in your opinion, the better models?
lowering the carrier frequency can destroy the mosfets or the igbt, the deadtime needs also be changed. maybe low pass filter outside the inverter works, because it is a class D amplifier in 60 degree modes what is used or just squares in 60 degree fase shift who cause this harmonic noise. Setting the system to 8 Khz is better indeed, but the noise is lower because we hear not that good there, filtering works als better. one coil and one cap. The fact motor bearings get damaged is by harmonics, that is the bad sound you hear. three class D amps in 60 degree shift will make a hell of a regulator with low sound from motor.
A good review. Thanks. Some good features like the remote panel and the cable being included. Some really bad features like lack of ground. I would not purchase a model without a ground even though I could add the ground similar to what you did.
I think the loose packaging may have caused the bend in the heat sink.
I have only worked on installing my own TECO VFD on a Southbend lathe and 3 Hitachi VFD's on other peoples lathes. These all had ground and ability to have the fan turned off until a certain temperature is reached, like your manual stated.
My TECO defaulted to 60 Hz so the motor ran the first time. The Hitachi's were like your VFD and defaulted to 0 Hz so the motor did not run until the frequency was increased.
The default for the fan was to have this run when the VFD runs. In normal shop temperatures, It takes a good amount of load to warm up the VFD to the temperature where the fan kicks in.
My TECO VFD is designed to be installed in a NEMA enclosure. I expect yours is also designed to be installed in an enclosure to guard against dust and fluids. The enclosure would normally have the strain relief for the wires.
You could make a wood enclosure for the VFD, just need sufficient ventilation so design with some louvers.
The lack of ground connection is likely a big issues for most electrical codes, including the NEMA code in the US.
I have some corded tools which are so called "double insulated" which do not have a ground. Not my preference but it is allowed for these tools.
I think any motor or VFD to operate a stationary machine like a lathe should have a ground. This is protection for the equipment and the operator.
I agree I think this drive is supposed to be installed into a cabinet. The case is fairly open and lots of dust will get in overtime.
On the other hand, because it's so open it easy to blow out with some compressed air.
I must say that I was rather surprised that there was no earth terminal. And I don't think the drive would get certified for the European marked. It's to bad my review model didn't really work out but I haven't given up and I'm sure I will find a use for it.
Interesting about your lack of Earth connection. In opening my 3KW Huanyang unit not only did it have the 9 terminal on the strip for a ground but also it has two screws holding the heatsink in the connection area also marked as ground connections for a total of three on it. It is CE certified.
I am a bit disappointed in how the base, which is the heatsink, is mounted. Instead of the slotted mounting holes being on the bottom, they are on the top. Slide up to install is not the way to do it. Also the cooling fan is installed for blowing down instead of on the bottom blowing up. That makes me think this unit was designed to be installed flat instead of vertically.
This unit does allow for either single ( shingle in Chinglish from add on instruction sheet :-) ) or three phase use which is what the 3rd screw from the left would allow. So in my case R & T or R & S or S & T can be used for single phase and all three for three phase. Notice on Banggood that Chinglish says single "phrase" on one of the 1.5KW units. :-)
the thing has two set points for the temperature control- it looks like you had the fan switch on at 22° and maybe the Unit switch off point set to 45° which is to low. can you adjust the setpoints? terrific review by the way, I'm looking to buy the exact thing.
The fan what running all the time so I disconnected it. And that probably killed the VFD after almost 2 years. I when with a flash and a bang followed by total darkness as the fuse cut out. The new one I use only runs the fan when the lathe is running. It's better although it does not have vector control. th-cam.com/video/bCJN6Pk8ydg/w-d-xo.html
Geweldige video om bij in slaap te vallen. Dank je! ;)
Ik heb wel meer slaapverwekkende video's. Zelf slaap ik altijd erg lekker bij de video's van Keith Rucker. Zal zijn rustgevende stemgeluid zijn, denk ik :)
@@Rolingmetal plus dat hij ALLES filmt. Eindeloos schraapwerk... lol
nice video buddy. my dog loves the sound of your motor...
Just recently picked up a similar model. WK-9000. Identical issues, fan on from start and no earth. Actually seems to run fine without an earth from my initial test of it, but will add one like yours just to be safe :)
No need to drill a hole you can just add the ground to the mounting feet.
I've disconnected the fan. So far the temp hasn't been a problem.
Thumbs up even before I watched the whole video - just because of the entertaining intro! :D
Thank you :)
Gave me an EARGASM!!!
Not sure if that's a good thing :)
Can you tie this to a pressure transducer and control condenser fan rotation speed?
How good is it say compared to yaskawa, toshiba,abb and others?
Really useful review, many thanks ! .. about the fan noise,I think you can do something about that. You already proved that it runs quite cool and in fact the fan shouldnt come on, at least with no load. and you can see what the temperature is. You can get (very cheap from internet) speed adjust kits for this type of fan (they are meant for PCs) .. actually its just a wire wound resistor, goes in series with the motor wire. You got this for free and invalidated any warranty when you drilled the hole for earth so if I was in your positition I would go for broke and remove or cut one of the wires to the motor and insert a suitable resistor (just insulate it well afterwards so no shorts. should help a lot. I also *hate* fan noise, even queit fans. eg a fan in my PC really annoys me, I want *utterly* silent.
I agree, stuff we buy should ideally work right when you open the box, but given that this kind of cheapstuff often has a few minor annoyances" we have to live with them - or fix them - or we can pay ten times the price for something nice. which I cant afford
A slight bend on the heatsink wouldnt bother me at all, just bend it back. I agree its annoying, un-necessary if they packed it better .. a good feedback to them, but the post cost to return it and them to send you another is far more than the bend is worth . c'est la vie, worse things happen to girls
That' s not a bad idea. To bad the fan is fastened from the inside and there is no access to the the wiring from the outside.
So I would need to completely disassemble the unit.
Was there no ground pin on the power socket? Or did i miss something?
I noticed that too.
The power plug I used sure had a ground pin there was just nothing to connect it too. So I grounded the chassis (heatsink)
@@Rolingmetal fair enough but i meant the plug, that you plug into the outlet...if that has no earth then earthing the chassis is pointless. But i hope the plug you showed is on camera was just a random one and not the one used for the VFD. Great video by the way, very informative.
Heerlijke droge humor!!
I purchased a gt series 220v 2.2kw version, I'mbin the states, would my vfd work in the uk, or would a uk unit work in the states. In the us there is 2 live wires, each is 110v and one goes to R and the other to either S or T and a ground. In the uk there is one live wire with 220v and a neutral. Is bbn it the same unit or 2 different units one for uk and one for us. Someone help, I want to use a step up transformer because I don't have 220v at home. Thanks
Is this cabable of over speed?
How did you hook up the on/off switch? I’m trying to hook up an on/off switch so I don’t have to unplug the VFD all the time. Thanks for any help.
It's just a switch in the single phase power cable. Like you have for a lightbulb.
these speed reducer exists for single phase motor
Have you ever seen one in action? Hoe does it preform?
Does it work better then running a single phase motor on one of the phases of a normal vfd?
How about at low speed?
Hi guy. Unlucky I can't speak and understand fluently english. So... just a Q: does it works in a 3 fase, 400V motor of an little drillmill machine? It's 750W too.
I suppose that should work just fine.
Connect A bimetal switch 45 degr between onze of the leads from the fan en glue the bimetal to de alu cooling bloc. That wil help
That was the plan, but I disconnected the fan instead. It's been fine ever since. Never gets to the temp where the fan should kick in.
i have done exactly as you did. nothing works. cant change the frequency. 😑 anyone having this problem? motor 3f hooked up correct. ive checked the 3f outgoing wires. but the read out is 0 volts.... can anyone help me or give a tip? thank you
Thank you for this usefull video, my fan runs from the start as well, but that's ok for me. It's installed in a cabinet, on the other side of a wall. So that's ok. :) The only thing I haven't figured out yet is how do I connect an external on/off switch to this device? Have you figured that out? If so, can you please explain me how? Thanks!
I already found it, connect DCOM and FWD and change F039 from 0.0 to 2.0
Does the external switch also stop and start the fan? I remember running into this problem.
Never figured it out since I got used to using the buttons on the panel.
Yes, it does. Just like when you use the FDW and Stop button on the device. When the frequency hits 0.00 the fan stops too. We also use 2 devices of another brand and these turn on their fans only when needed, also the fans are more quiet. Probably that’s the difference between €125 and €600...
Hello,
Can you kindly guide me that from any VFD which has output of 3-Phase 220V, can we handle speed control of 30V 6KW 3-Phase AC Motor with full torque?
Hi, may I help you? This is Chris INVT Group, the largest manufacturer for industrial automation equipment in China.
i like your style !
Lol according to 1 guy it gave him ear cancer! Too funny. Love the vids
Thanks man, I love the positive feedback, I'll try to make some vids now that depressing winter is over.
By the way this v.f.d died with a flash and a bang, little over a year ago. Now I use this: th-cam.com/video/bCJN6Pk8ydg/w-d-xo.html
@@Rolingmetal I'm actually looking at that one myself debating, but I just about finished turning my old delta wood lathe into a metal lathe, Not perfect but for me it'll do and want to get 1 for single phase to adjust speed on a beefy 2 hp Baldor motor I installed. The old 1/2 hp bogged down way too much and lost all it's power. Keep posting vids and I'll keep watching bud :)
I think it's good little vfd but there is no vector control. If you want power at low speeds you might want something different: th-cam.com/video/gL1G8DLfzJI/w-d-xo.html So far I have not been missing the vector control :)
I'm actually working a new material right now. Had a break for 3/4 months after some medical issues and the winter, but I hope to make a strong comeback :) Good luck with the wood lathe.
@@Rolingmetal Glad you're well and doing better, looking fwd to upcoming vids
Hi. I put up a video showing my fix for the noisy fan. I included a card for this video here to show the tests you did to try to get the drive to overheat. I had to put a heat gun down into the heatsink to get the bi-metallic switch to close and it took nearly three minutes to get sufficient heat for the fan to start. I also changed the carrier frequency as you did and the results are much quieter than I had previously. I enjoyed watching your review and I'm glad you didn't sugar coat the faults with this VFD. My video is here: th-cam.com/video/x882vvX_L7Y/w-d-xo.html
Very well made video. I was going to do the same but couldn't get the right temperature switch at the local electronics store.
In the end I just pulled of the power lead and used the VFD without a fan. In my drive there is a parameter to monitor the heat-sink temperature. For a while is checked that parameter, but the way I use my lathe/drive I doubt that the temp will ever be a problem.
I am aware that this will probably shorten the lifespan of the drive but I'm o.k. with that.
I couldn't find the parameter that you used to monitor the heatsink temperature. There were two parameters on my drive which were supposed to allow for monitoring various functions. Pd170 and Pd171 were available to "display items" and "display items open" but no matter how I set them I could not get the temperature to display. As it turns out I doubt that the temperature will ever rise enough to activate the fan. I got my switches on Ebay www.ebay.com.au/itm/KSD9700-Temperature-Switch-Thermostat-Thermal-Protector-Normally-Closed-Open-MO/201993260718?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=502002814248&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
@@Preso58 10 month later and even with an "updated version" it is a no go. The fan runs all the time and no readout can be gotten on the display for temp. Also found something different that I'll have to play with. Even though mine is a 110 Volt 3KW version, when checking the factory settings, they are set to 220 Volts. And a message from Elly ( tech at HY ) says that mine can run either single or 3 phase. I have yet to see a 110V 3 phase system. Me thinks mine slipped by the QC checks on a number of things at Huanyang as the tag does say 2/3 Phase 110V even with a model number only for a "shingle " phase unit. It appears that the HY units have a slightly better build quality over the NFLixin units though.
Nice review
question. how fast does it go?
This is an excellent video and clearly an honest review. The only thing is, there's just so much talking. Too much, I think.
LOL. You are absolutely right. I seems to be going around. Might even be contagious :)
Nice video. Would you like trying our products?
I can always do another VFD review, as I have a coupe more rather noisy old drives in use :)
Send me an email so we can discuss this. The email is on the about tab on my channel page.
Although it might not show up in all countries so just in case: rolingmetal(at)gmail.com
Very useful review thank you! I’ll be looking to add an external switch to mine to control the motor, did you find out how to do this? Thanks a lot!!
I currently don't use an external switch.
I did hookup a switch and it worked. But if I remember correctly stopping the motor didn't stop the internal cooling fan.
The stop button on the panel did stop the fan.
I was going to figure this out but I'm ok using the panel so I never did.
okay thank you very much, I will be using the motor in the other room so the fan shouldn't be a problem. cant you change it for a quiet one from a computer?
A computer fan won't work because it needs to be 24v.
I've disconnected the fan and since I'm nor using the brake resistor I pretty sure it will be fine.
It never gets to the temperature where the fan should switch on according to the manual.
You should have run it at 2300W and then see if it could cope or not, I have my seriously doubts. Not only drive a motor without any load on it that doesnt stress it at all.
That would have been a good test but I don't have the tools for that.
Anyway I've been pretty happy with the VFD ever since I've unplugged that noisy fan.
i want buy it
Hi rolingmetal,
I bought a feed pellet machine that I can’t use because it is a 240v 60hz 3phase 22kw system, I only have 1phase power supply in my country. I would like to know if a VFD would work for me and if so can you please tell me a system that can work for me. Thank you
Hope someone can help me here.
1tweece look up how to use capacitors to create more voltage and a second line its neat stuff but you have wattage limits
you can use the capacitor from an old motor too. Search it out on the internet.
If done right you don't even have to take it apart.
Maybe some of you guys can help me. I have the same VFD (only for 0.75kw) and everything is working fine, even the motor runs, but for some reason I cannot enter new parameters.
I tried exactly (!) according to the manual:
-Reset to factory
-PAR/ALM -> ´pick any Function, let's say F010 (motor frequency) -> choose value -> RD/WT to confirm new value.
At this point the value resets to the factory value. No matter how often I try, I'm not able to enter any new values. I can pick them, they blink, then I hit RD/WT and they go back to what they were previously.
Can anyone help with this?
Thanks
Strange. I have no idea why this is not working for you.
But if I remember correctly there are two ways to reset. Though the software and by shortening out one of the i/o pins to ground.
Thanks mate, I actually figured it out. Maybe this'll help someone else: For some reason multiple parameters that the manual tells you to change are factory locked for this version of the VFD.
For instance: F009 F010 F011 (which are the motor parameters), are listed as FR/W, which means that they can only be changed by an "engineer"
So partly, it is my fault for not RTFM thoroughly, on the other hand they shouldn't tell people to "set the parameters of motor" first, but not let them do it :)
Thanks for your reply though. I appreciate it.
Well, the manual is bit of a hard and sometimes comedic read. But, good that you got it figured out.
I forgot to ask, does your cooling fan spin all the time?
Yes it does. Spins up when starting the VFD, keeps spinning for about 10-15sek then stops and starts quite randomly. Also, the fan chafed along its housing until I loosened the screws holding the cover on...
Otherwise I'm happy. I mean: 85€...
Volgens mij ben je een Nederlander .. ik kan het probleem met je bespreken. De ventilator in de vfd gaat automatisch aan altijd wanneer je hem start . Dat is erg irritant. Het plaatsen van het bimetaal stop de ventilator in het begin tot hij 45 warm wordt en dan slaat hij aan en als de temp weer terug zakt dan gaat hij weer automatisch uit enz. Je moet wel durven om de vfd open te maken en het bimetaalje in de kast te plaatsen.. plaatsen tussen een draad van de ventilator en het schakelaartje vastzetten op koelblok. Aluminium koelframe.. bimataal 45c te koop bij banggood of Ali succes.
I was van plan om een temperatuur gevoelige schakelaar te installeren.
Maar de lokale elektronica zaak had niet de juister temperatuur schakelaar.
Toen heb ik de stekker van de ventilator er maar uitgetrokken en regelmatig de temperatuur parameter gecontroleerd.
De temperatuur kwam nooit in de buurt van 45 graden dus heb ik het maar zo gelaten.
Mogelijk gaat de VFD nu wat eerder stuk maar dat risico accepteer ik.
Ik heb het zelf wel gedaan, dus geen zorgen voor mijn vfd. Ik heb de ventilator alleen aan gekregen met een föhn en het werkt goed. Succes verder.
a Very nice video
fan is always on savety firts save few bucks less parts
Do u use 3 phase motor?
Yes, It won't work without :)
Thanks alot !!!!
What motor are you running?
Is it a 'universal' motor of some kind running on 3phase?
It's a used 3 phase induction motor that came from a chicken barn fan.
Thanks
What kind of lathe do you have?
I think they call it a bench lathe or a pattern makers lathe.
It's basically a very big watch makers lathe.
It was either made by Karger or Auerbach in Germany.
Thank you sir. I have been trying to find one to restore.
I've been looking for one that still has it legs and treadle mechanism.
RD/WT...ha! You must be Dutch ;-)
my fan runs constantly also
Do you also have the nf-9000 model?
HY VFD
Are saying the nf-9000 is also made by HY?
And is HY short for Hyundai?
lol, HuanYang VFD. not sure if it's the same. But probably made in the same factory.
Yes, a lot of the Chinese drives look the same.
Lots of brand names and perhaps only one manufacturer.
Or perhaps that are all more or less cloning each others product.
MY EARS! MY EARS!! EAR PLUGS, PLEASE!! How can I message you?
That's nothing! My wood lathe is even worse. It uses the same old VFD but has a cabinet that acts as a resonance chamber. I don't do much wood turning these days :)
On the homepage of my channel is an about tab, you can find an mail address there if you want to send me a private message.
does it show RPM?
I believe it can. I didn't bother with it as it is only useful if you have a fixed pulley configuration.
@@Rolingmetal thanks, also there is a video on how to reduce sound of the VFD
th-cam.com/video/x882vvX_L7Y/w-d-xo.html
Try NOT giving us a migraine within the first 10 seconds of your videos. Thanks!
You didn't enjoy that :)
Recoding makes it actually sound worse that it is.
Well, you have one more follower now...
Welcome to the congregation :)
Sounds like a train.
Damn that sound was awful.. you know the sound of nails on chalkboard.. well its like that and constant and louder
The nail on the chalkboard is worse :)
Soon I will start using the old drive again. Get ready for some more agonising sound :)
How do you control a motor using this VFD (NFIXIN MODEL 9000 using a PLC
lovemore munguni, i havent done refit yet to say much.
btw.. Did u look up the owner manual for it? I know there r badly written in chinglish, but a good starting place..
I have the manual but there is not much in there. much of wht i am doing is experimental based on what other VDFs are expected to do
annoying
why not buy a U.S made VFD which might cost you probably the price of that old lathe you have and quit whining
Those American made drives are probably just as American made as the iPhone :)
Rolingmetal just like the rest of 99.9% of US consumer product
Cutos to China .
Hey we still make some stuff here! like beer! and Women! MErica!
Yeah buy american and get skun