Hi, Just thought I would comment for the benefit of others..I am not a 98 lb weakling, but it is hard to overestimate the amount of force required to separate the two parts of the mounting bracket (10:32). You are holding it upside down, but your video gave me the confidence to really put some muscle into it. I guess they get easier after a few removals :) I pushed the rear piece UP (referring to your video) Your videos are a great resource! Cheers (from NZ)
I've been installing Intruder Alarms for nearly 40 years and the only thing I would trust for outdoor use would be 2 sets of beams. Even the Redwall Range which are made for outdoors cause false activations when set up correctly. It got to point where a well known national Retailer had all external detection removed because of all the false activations. I suppose this would be good to use as part of an informer series but not to be relied upon as to eliminate false positives.
@@steveyates2091 I'm not overly keen on the Hikvision Analytics at the moment, it struggles to tell the difference between the back end of a cow and a person. Just spent weeks watching a site and the way it analyses movement, green boxes everywhere. 😉 Could do with something similar to Davantis Perspective Analysis but that is an additional cost in itself.
Thanks for the input these have 2 PIRS and a microwave for tri-tech detection , as apposed to a standard OPTEX PIR of one technology , of course any technology can be effected externally , even beams when not maintained , especially shrubbery. I understand your comment though but hopefully these incidents would be vastly reduced when using tri-tech setup.
@@Sol3UK I have used Davantis on BS8418 Jobs and higher end projects however it is not cheap !! there is something quite new to market launched from a competitor of Hik which I have specified and had excellent results with regards to false alarms and target identification reported back by engineers and the RVRC but as it is a competitor to DVS and Hik ...it would be unfair to link it on thier content
Hi, how could you try the detector putting it on the aircon unit without installing it? I know there's an external tamper protection that you have to press (I've tried with a sticker...but nothing!). Maybe there's a way to arm the system even with the device open, but in my App, when I arm, it excludes the detector. I'm using Hik Connect and not Hik Connect Pro, could this be the difference? Excellent video However🙂
Hey all, has anyone had these installed for a while? I have a customer with 2 of them and both chew the batteries. She only arms at night, and they have hardly ever been triggered, but we are finding they sit at 100% battery for about 3 weeks and then lose 5% battery every day or so, so each unit needs a full set of batteries every 2.5 - 3 months. Where I live a CR123 is $15, so We are looking at 15x5= $75 per unit x2 units = $150 every say 3 months, so $600 a year on batteries. If it was just 1 I would think I had a bad unit, but both are doing it.. Is this an issue others have?
We found the PIR part reaaaaaly struggles to mount without the tamper switch being triggered. It is an awkward design & needs re-engineering. Have you tested it? Could you master the challenge?
I'll be waiting to try. BUT! I have been disappointed on the actual effective wireless range. I'm lucky to get 80m on the pir cam before signal testing goes red. In straight line open air 350m max. Love the system but there are flaws. Thus especially true when alarms for Australia (monitored) as required to have at least 24 hrs battery reserve, lucky for it to be 12, if I'm talking about the hub and repeater.
hello, and thank you for your videos, can you point me to a good walkthrough video that deals with video/bandwith/shuttertime and so on for a relative beginner. I have 9 hikvision cameras but i have never really mastered the configurations. BR Magnus
I cannot get the "lid open" error to go away (I noticed it was there in your video too). This thing is a challenge to mount, any advice as to "closing the lid"? It's causing the detector to be bypassed even when I have arm with faults enabled. Can only get it to work as a 24 hour zone. Please help?
I had the exact same problem. Took everything apart from the detector and found the plug for the 'open lid' sensor to be disconnected. I hope this helps you.
I am getting same issue saying Open lid Status , where is this lid sensor that needs to be plugged ? Or is it because I haven't mounted it to a wall and tamper switch isn't been pressed against wall ? I am confused , he never addressed the Lid open status???
@mspicer6455 Mine was mounted against an uneven wall and the little switch at the back was not engaging, or pressing "in". I ended up wedging a piece of plastic in there to press the switch. You could also check the connection like the previous poster mentioned.
Thanks for the prompt reply , what do you mean check the "connection"? One poster mentiones you need to make sure the ipen lid sensor is plugged in? I am mounting my detrctor on a wall bracket so its not pressed all up against the wall, wouldnt this trigger somethingelse and not lid open status ? Because all rhe lids and the back of it is all air tight closed. @alfredpayne6086
@@loutjiepotgieter5534 - been running mine for about 18 months and the false alarms has been minimal. When my pool cover is off the glare from the water tends to activate it (as expected) and when it is really windy tree movement results in a few FPs.
One of the worst Alarm system I could buy. It's a chinese Toy. The external sensors (sa DS-PDC10AM-EG2-WB or the tri axis you are review ing here) suffer the meteo changes. If you install them and everyting Is fine, you'll find that After a year of work they Will not detect anything if you repeat the zone test for each One. Even if you reset them. They lose detection ability.
@@evh5150combo - this happened to one of mine, turned out to be the cover, sun damage I suspect as it was brittle to the touch. Replaced it and works again. But yeah not great.
Hi, Just thought I would comment for the benefit of others..I am not a 98 lb weakling, but it is hard to overestimate the amount of force required to separate the two parts of the mounting bracket (10:32). You are holding it upside down, but your video gave me the confidence to really put some muscle into it. I guess they get easier after a few removals :) I pushed the rear piece UP (referring to your video)
Your videos are a great resource!
Cheers (from NZ)
I've been installing Intruder Alarms for nearly 40 years and the only thing I would trust for outdoor use would be 2 sets of beams. Even the Redwall Range which are made for outdoors cause false activations when set up correctly. It got to point where a well known national Retailer had all external detection removed because of all the false activations. I suppose this would be good to use as part of an informer series but not to be relied upon as to eliminate false positives.
there are some really good video analytics VCA out there mate but us older engineers remember the GJD and old redwall days lol
@@steveyates2091 I'm not overly keen on the Hikvision Analytics at the moment, it struggles to tell the difference between the back end of a cow and a person. Just spent weeks watching a site and the way it analyses movement, green boxes everywhere. 😉 Could do with something similar to Davantis Perspective Analysis but that is an additional cost in itself.
@@Sol3UK Thanks for the comment steve, keyholder response from an ARC ( guard service ) would still be applicable
Thanks for the input these have 2 PIRS and a microwave for tri-tech detection , as apposed to a standard OPTEX PIR of one technology , of course any technology can be effected externally , even beams when not maintained , especially shrubbery. I understand your comment though but hopefully these incidents would be vastly reduced when using tri-tech setup.
@@Sol3UK I have used Davantis on BS8418 Jobs and higher end projects however it is not cheap !! there is something quite new to market launched from a competitor of Hik which I have specified and had excellent results with regards to false alarms and target identification reported back by engineers and the RVRC but as it is a competitor to DVS and Hik ...it would be unfair to link it on thier content
How do you find the detectors performance after 2 to 3 years install?
Hi, how could you try the detector putting it on the aircon unit without installing it? I know there's an external tamper protection that you have to press (I've tried with a sticker...but nothing!). Maybe there's a way to arm the system even with the device open, but in my App, when I arm, it excludes the detector. I'm using Hik Connect and not Hik Connect Pro, could this be the difference? Excellent video However🙂
I used strong duck tape to secure the tamper for the video , then installed in on the wall properly afterwards 😊
Hey all, has anyone had these installed for a while? I have a customer with 2 of them and both chew the batteries. She only arms at night, and they have hardly ever been triggered, but we are finding they sit at 100% battery for about 3 weeks and then lose 5% battery every day or so, so each unit needs a full set of batteries every 2.5 - 3 months. Where I live a CR123 is $15, so We are looking at 15x5= $75 per unit x2 units = $150 every say 3 months, so $600 a year on batteries. If it was just 1 I would think I had a bad unit, but both are doing it.. Is this an issue others have?
We found the PIR part reaaaaaly struggles to mount without the tamper switch being triggered.
It is an awkward design & needs re-engineering. Have you tested it? Could you master the challenge?
yes I have had it working , but get your point , have fed back a suggestion but myself and others have “completed” the challenge 🤣
Are the system will affected by signal jumper?
Can you make a video when you test this with a dog ? I am curious if it doesn't trigger the alarm since we have 3 dogs
@@ys5095 - late reply, but we have a 24 kg, large french poodle and he does not activate these.
It supports on demand picture from app?
I'll be waiting to try. BUT! I have been disappointed on the actual effective wireless range. I'm lucky to get 80m on the pir cam before signal testing goes red. In straight line open air 350m max.
Love the system but there are flaws. Thus especially true when alarms for Australia (monitored) as required to have at least 24 hrs battery reserve, lucky for it to be 12, if I'm talking about the hub and repeater.
have you tried a repeater???
how do you get to know exactly where the area that is being detected?
hello, and thank you for your videos, can you point me to a good walkthrough video that deals with video/bandwith/shuttertime and so on for a relative beginner. I have 9 hikvision cameras but i have never really mastered the configurations. BR Magnus
I cannot get the "lid open" error to go away (I noticed it was there in your video too). This thing is a challenge to mount, any advice as to "closing the lid"? It's causing the detector to be bypassed even when I have arm with faults enabled. Can only get it to work as a 24 hour zone. Please help?
I had the exact same problem. Took everything apart from the detector and found the plug for the 'open lid' sensor to be disconnected. I hope this helps you.
I am getting same issue saying Open lid Status , where is this lid sensor that needs to be plugged ?
Or is it because I haven't mounted it to a wall and tamper switch isn't been pressed against wall ? I am confused , he never addressed the Lid open status???
@mspicer6455 Mine was mounted against an uneven wall and the little switch at the back was not engaging, or pressing "in". I ended up wedging a piece of plastic in there to press the switch. You could also check the connection like the previous poster mentioned.
Thanks for the prompt reply , what do you mean check the "connection"? One poster mentiones you need to make sure the ipen lid sensor is plugged in? I am mounting my detrctor on a wall bracket so its not pressed all up against the wall, wouldnt this trigger somethingelse and not lid open status ? Because all rhe lids and the back of it is all air tight closed. @alfredpayne6086
Wheres the plug for the open sesnor lid ?@SabinaBoran
Has anyone had this installed for an extended period to comment on false alarms?
@@loutjiepotgieter5534 - been running mine for about 18 months and the false alarms has been minimal. When my pool cover is off the glare from the water tends to activate it (as expected) and when it is really windy tree movement results in a few FPs.
One of the worst Alarm system I could buy. It's a chinese Toy. The external sensors (sa DS-PDC10AM-EG2-WB or the tri axis you are review ing here) suffer the meteo changes. If you install them and everyting Is fine, you'll find that After a year of work they Will not detect anything if you repeat the zone test for each One. Even if you reset them. They lose detection ability.
@@evh5150combo - this happened to one of mine, turned out to be the cover, sun damage I suspect as it was brittle to the touch. Replaced it and works again. But yeah not great.