@@thecrookedhem I’m sure I will! Someone just suggested it to me the other day for fitting the Helene Jeans pattern and is never heard of it, so this is perfect timing!
I'm trying to make my first pair of pants in a very long time. The pattern maker provides instructions on making a toile which I have done for the first time. There is a fitting guide included which tells me what the creases mean. They are pointing to my "problem" areas in 3 places and I am totally confused and demoralized about how to apply the different adjustments and get a good result. I've turned to TH-cam to try to find some guidance and I'm so happy that I found the TDCO method. I've watched the first few videos in the series and I'm way more optimistic of getting a good result 🙂
I'm so glad you found the method! I completely agree, fitting by using the conventional advice of body-part specific adjustments and identifying "problem areas" is so demoralizing. Top Down Center Out has been a game changer for me, I feel much more empowered during the entire fitting process. I hope you enjoy using this method!
Yours were the first pair of pants that I swa 'in the wild' using Ruth's methods - and I was hooked! Thank you for the time you've generously dedicated to compiling a video resource for this work order! Three cheers for all.the.amazing.pants!!!!
I’ve now watched all your videos three times 😮 I wanted to be really sure I got it! Well I have. I’ve always had to adjust patterns as I’m short 5ft/152cm and had strong thighs. I’m still short but age has diminished my bum/derrière and thickened my waist so different changes needed. Here’s to a great fit and many thanks Stacy for your great explanations. A grateful Londoner ❤
Thank you so much for sharing this new approach to sewing pants. The time and effort you have put into these in depth directions are much appreciated. I’m hopeful that using this method will help me finally create a pant pattern that fits.
Thankyou so much for this series of videos. Your explanation of the process is very clear and easy to follow. I have made countless pants/trousers in the past, and have never really been happy with the fit. I have done pant fitting online classes, plus a craftsy class, and have spent hours doing various adjustments to crotch curves, waist adjustments, thigh adjustments etc but never had good results. As soon as you alter 1 thing, something else goes out of line! I have now made trousers that fit, with minimal pattern adjustments! Thanks also to Ruth, this has been a revelation to me.
Thank you for developing these videos about Top Down Centre Out. I'll be following along because pants fitting is always a journey and I know you'll be sharing your learnings along with Ruth's 5 step method.
Rachael, I can't wait to see your process! I felt like Ruth was talking to you when she kept pointing out, early on in sharing #topdowncenterout, how easily individual adjustments can turn into a cascade--I think that was about the time you were doing your pants-fitting deep dive. We've got similar bodies, so I've long had the Peppermint pants bookmarked for my first TDCO venture given how nicely they've worked for you.
Thank you, Stacey! You are so obviously both a scientist and a teacher. You know how to explain things so mere mortals like myself can understand them. I struggle every single time I attempt to make pants (simple ones, at that), that it becomes an onerous pursuit. After watching two of your explanatory videos so far (using an embroidery hoop and string to illustrate your points was masterful!), I am actually looking forward to making a pair of pants using this method. Thank you for taking the time to do this!
I'm really looking forward to watching more of your videos. I find it so hard to buy trousers that fit, but am daunted by how complicated it seams to get the fit right on hand made trousers. Hoping this method will simplify things!
I am so excited to see the upcoming videos! I'm loving the idea of throwing out all the slashing and spreading and making a bazillion measurements and using words/euphemisms like full/low/saggy/lopsided to describe body parts... instead taking the pattern, preserving the designer's intent and mapping it to make it fit. I'll be following!
Your timing is perfect! I just found out about this method in the last few weeks. I missed the magazine but even subscribed hoping they would send me one of the summer editions. I looked up the method on TH-cam a few weeks ago and not much was said about it and just happened to search it again. Can't wait for your videos!
This is awesome Stacy! Thank you for helping to breakdown the #topdowncenterout method through video. Your blog posts about your experiences with the method are super helpful and insightful so I can only imagine how great your contributions are going to be in video format.
Thank you! I have been following you and Ruth on Instagram but really felt like I needed a video to try this method. I am looking forward to getting started!
I've just found this and wow!! I have feared trousers for most of my 45+ years of sewing, but I now feel much more confident to try this out. Thank you ❤
Will be following along! I have the Threads magazine but looking forward to seeing this method actually being done in person. Thank you for sharing your insight of the TDCO method!
Stacy, this is so great! I've already learned so much about #topdowncenterout from your Insta posts but I'm so delighted to get to experience you in full-on teacher mode and really get the deep dive. Just in time for fall pants making too! Thank you for being so generous with your time and knowledge--the sewing community is just the best.
Thank you, Melissa! I've benefitted so much from so many wonderful people in the sewing community, so it felt right to give back. I'm glad you're here and hope you enjoy the series!
Just finished watching your series on Top Down Center Out and am really thankful that you took the time to make these videos. I look forward to creating a pair of pants with this method but most certainly will review these videos a few times before I do. Thanks again.😊
Thank you for this series! I have felt pretty frustrated by the traditional methods (and a little irked with how they tend to describe bodies and fitting). This gives me another doorway into the world of fitting, and makes me feel much more confident about learning how to make pants that fit my body!
I’m excited for this channel! I’ve done my one-leg muslin according to tdco, but I haven’t translated it to a pair of pants yet. I’m not sure why I’m intimidated!
Thank you for doing this. I am hopeful for this approach, but I have fallen for the "this pattern fits everyone right out of the envelope" and "this fitting guide will solve all your problems" many times. I hope coming videos will cover how to use the method for varied pants profiles, not just the classic trouser. The pool of vintage patterns that meet the requirements seems to be drying up! And I would really like to just use the patterns I already have.
Loving the concept of this 'alternative' fitting method but especially your careful, understandable explanation of it. Thank you so much for compiling this series. I'm wondering if this method might work for fitting skirts too? Can't do a half- toile obviously but being able to fit a skirt in the same manner might help those who have one hip higher than the other for example. Thanks again, I will certainly be trying this out 😊
Glad it is helpful! Yes, this will absolutely work for skirts, and in fact a skirt would be a great place to start if you want to dip your toe in the water before moving on to pants. Obviously skirts don't have a crotch seam, so that element of fitting is removed here. You would just need to focus on the fit of the waistband, the amount of vertical length needed between the waistband location and your hip location, and then circumference of the skirt. Hope you enjoy using the method!
I will let you know how it goes. I've actually planned to make some shorts first. The pattern includes pants (full length and capris) and 2 lengths of skirt so, hopefully, I'll get to make them all!
This great for Woven Fabrics as mentioned in the series and I'm currently trying it out now. Is there another method to help with fitting stretch fabrics?
This method works for stretch fabrics too! For a stretch fabric, you would want to make a full two-legged toile instead of a one-legged toile. A two legged toile will allow you to achieve the desired stretch through the torso without the center front and center back seams distorting. You will follow the same steps as for a one-legged toile, but just try your best to pin the toile evenly on both sides of the body. If you find that your changes are uneven on left and right sides, then it's up to you whether you want to average the changes and make them equal on both sides, or keep them asymmetrical for the final garment.
Hi Stacey, I bought a jogger pattern from Apostrophe Patterns. It isn't normal pattern with multiple sizes to choose from. It is a pattern generator, and you input your measurements into the generator and it makes a pattern for you according to your measurements (sorry for explaining if you already know them). So my question is, can this method work for the pattern I generated with this?
Hello! Yes, it is possible to apply the principles of Top Down Center Out to a custom draft like the joggers from Apostrophe Patterns, but it would not be my recommendation as an entry point to learning how to fit patterns. There are a few reasons for this. First, it's unclear how or whether these custom-generated patterns are tested, and therefore the quality of the drafting is a big unknown. In general, multi-sized patterns that have been tested on lots of bodies by an experienced designer tend to be higher quality than those that haven't, meaning that they will need fewer fit adjustments to fit most people well. Second, having a nested multi-sized pattern is a huge advantage when learning how to fit bc making the pattern larger or smaller will be much easier. For example, if the maker determines that the body needs more space in the crotch seam, it's straightforward to trace the next size up when using a multi-sized pattern. If there is no "next size up", then one would need to know how to grade the pattern up to the next size while also maintaining the balance, proportion, and overall design of the original. This is a whole different skillset apart from fitting, and learning how to grade while also learning how to fit can get complicated. So if you are just starting out with Top Down Center Out fitting, then I'd recommend starting with a nested, multi-sized pattern like the Shop Pants from Open Studio Patterns, the Protea Pants from Paradise Patterns, or the Peppermint Wide Leg pants from In the Folds/Peppermint magazine (free!). I've you've been practicing Top Down Center Out with other patterns and feel comfortable applying the method to different types of designs, then tackling the Apostrophe joggers could be a good challenge to stretch your skills. Hope that helps!
@@leandrikos1659 Yes, you can use TDCO with a knit pants pattern. In that case, you will construct a full toile (two legs) and fit on both sides of the body. The reason for the two legged toile is because a knit pattern will have negative ease, and with a one-legged toile, the center front and center back of the knit will pull away from your center, making it difficult to gauge the fit. With a two legged toile, you can keep the center line of the pants in line with your center. Then you will follow the method the same as you would with any other pattern -- fitting waistband first, then crotch seam, then sides. Do your best to make equal modifications to both side seams, if there are small inconsistencies from left to right side, then you can take the average of the two.
Can I use this method for fitting a pattern that I have made for myself, using my own measurements? In the series, there is nothing mentioned about that, the pattern used is a commercial pattern. Aaand, as far as I understood, this method can only be used with nested commercial patterns. Is that right..?
You could certainly try this method on a pattern you've drafted yourself, but you are correct that Top Down Center Out is not optimized for self-drafted patterns. If you do use it, keep in mind that the self-drafting formulas available to home sewists generally produce garments that will need more adjusting/refinement in order to fit well as compared to something that has been commercially designed and tested. You will also not have the benefit of the multi-sizing or nesting, which will make grading up or down much more challenging. But, ultimately, the best pattern to use is the one you are the most motivated to make.
There are two aspects to #TopDownCenterOut, creating the platform that facilitates fitting and the process that guides the fitting. When using this for both creating a design as well as fitting the design the considerations relating to the pattern design are not relevant. But the platform for assessment is still very useful, here is an example of somebody using approach to draft zero waste pants th-cam.com/video/vmDlxMtAd9M/w-d-xo.html
Woohoo! Congrats on your first video! Can’t wait to learn this new method 🙌🙌
Yay! It's a great way to fit a pair of pants, I'm obviously a huge fan. :) Hope you enjoy the series!
@@thecrookedhem I’m sure I will! Someone just suggested it to me the other day for fitting the Helene Jeans pattern and is never heard of it, so this is perfect timing!
Thank you - your visual aid really was a light bulb lesson - there is NOW hope for fitting my shorts, jeans, and dress pants. YEAH!
Awesome!! We all deserve a wardrobe full of amazing jeans, trousers, shorts, and everything in between! I hope this method helps you get there.
I'm trying to make my first pair of pants in a very long time. The pattern maker provides instructions on making a toile which I have done for the first time. There is a fitting guide included which tells me what the creases mean. They are pointing to my "problem" areas in 3 places and I am totally confused and demoralized about how to apply the different adjustments and get a good result. I've turned to TH-cam to try to find some guidance and I'm so happy that I found the TDCO method. I've watched the first few videos in the series and I'm way more optimistic of getting a good result 🙂
I'm so glad you found the method! I completely agree, fitting by using the conventional advice of body-part specific adjustments and identifying "problem areas" is so demoralizing. Top Down Center Out has been a game changer for me, I feel much more empowered during the entire fitting process. I hope you enjoy using this method!
Thank you!!!!! I am so excited about this🤗👍
Looking forward to this.
Yours were the first pair of pants that I swa 'in the wild' using Ruth's methods - and I was hooked! Thank you for the time you've generously dedicated to compiling a video resource for this work order! Three cheers for all.the.amazing.pants!!!!
Three cheers for pants!!
I’ve now watched all your videos three times 😮 I wanted to be really sure I got it! Well I have. I’ve always had to adjust patterns as I’m short 5ft/152cm and had strong thighs. I’m still short but age has diminished my bum/derrière and thickened my waist so different changes needed. Here’s to a great fit and many thanks Stacy for your great explanations. A grateful Londoner ❤
Thank you so much for sharing this new approach to sewing pants. The time and effort you have put into these in depth directions are much appreciated. I’m hopeful that using this method will help me finally create a pant pattern that fits.
These video series are great! It's worth viewing them from start to end. So much help! Thank you for sharing all this knowledge.
Thankyou so much for this series of videos. Your explanation of the process is very clear and easy to follow.
I have made countless pants/trousers in the past, and have never really been happy with the fit. I have done pant fitting online classes, plus a craftsy class, and have spent hours doing various adjustments to crotch curves, waist adjustments, thigh adjustments etc but never had good results. As soon as you alter 1 thing, something else goes out of line!
I have now made trousers that fit, with minimal pattern adjustments! Thanks also to Ruth, this has been a revelation to me.
This is so wonderful to hear! Thank you so much. Bravo on making pants that fit!
Thank you for developing these videos about Top Down Centre Out. I'll be following along because pants fitting is always a journey and I know you'll be sharing your learnings along with Ruth's 5 step method.
Thanks so much for taking the time to create this series. Such a great resource.
Thank you so much for all these videos and having the time to do all this !!
Thank you!! I cannot wait to follow along on my own trousers!!
Yes! So glad to hear you will be trying the method, it really changed the way I feel about fitting. I can't wait to see what you make!
Rachael, I can't wait to see your process! I felt like Ruth was talking to you when she kept pointing out, early on in sharing #topdowncenterout, how easily individual adjustments can turn into a cascade--I think that was about the time you were doing your pants-fitting deep dive. We've got similar bodies, so I've long had the Peppermint pants bookmarked for my first TDCO venture given how nicely they've worked for you.
Thank you, Stacey! You are so obviously both a scientist and a teacher. You know how to explain things so mere mortals like myself can understand them. I struggle every single time I attempt to make pants (simple ones, at that), that it becomes an onerous pursuit. After watching two of your explanatory videos so far (using an embroidery hoop and string to illustrate your points was masterful!), I am actually looking forward to making a pair of pants using this method. Thank you for taking the time to do this!
I'm really looking forward to watching more of your videos. I find it so hard to buy trousers that fit, but am daunted by how complicated it seams to get the fit right on hand made trousers. Hoping this method will simplify things!
This method really simplified the process for me and de-mystified pants fitting. I hope you enjoy the series!
Very excited for this, I’m keen to try the top down centre out method and look forward to your future videos! Thank you for taking the time.
Welcome and I'm glad you're here! Hope you enjoy the series!
Perfect timing. I am here for it! Thank you.
I am so excited to see the upcoming videos! I'm loving the idea of throwing out all the slashing and spreading and making a bazillion measurements and using words/euphemisms like full/low/saggy/lopsided to describe body parts... instead taking the pattern, preserving the designer's intent and mapping it to make it fit. I'll be following!
Your timing is perfect! I just found out about this method in the last few weeks. I missed the magazine but even subscribed hoping they would send me one of the summer editions. I looked up the method on TH-cam a few weeks ago and not much was said about it and just happened to search it again. Can't wait for your videos!
This is awesome Stacy! Thank you for helping to breakdown the #topdowncenterout method through video. Your blog posts about your experiences with the method are super helpful and insightful so I can only imagine how great your contributions are going to be in video format.
I'm so happy to hear that! Thank you and welcome!
I'm so excited that I found your channel via Instagram. This is going to be a great series.
Hope you enjoy it!
Thank you! I have been following you and Ruth on Instagram but really felt like I needed a video to try this method. I am looking forward to getting started!
Hope you enjoy the series!
Brilliantly done! Thank you--my next fit project!
I've just found this and wow!! I have feared trousers for most of my 45+ years of sewing, but I now feel much more confident to try this out.
Thank you ❤
Will be following along! I have the Threads magazine but looking forward to seeing this method actually being done in person. Thank you for sharing your insight of the TDCO method!
Stacy, this is so great! I've already learned so much about #topdowncenterout from your Insta posts but I'm so delighted to get to experience you in full-on teacher mode and really get the deep dive. Just in time for fall pants making too! Thank you for being so generous with your time and knowledge--the sewing community is just the best.
Thank you, Melissa! I've benefitted so much from so many wonderful people in the sewing community, so it felt right to give back. I'm glad you're here and hope you enjoy the series!
Just finished watching your series on Top Down Center Out and am really thankful that you took the time to make these videos. I look forward to creating a pair of pants with this method but most certainly will review these videos a few times before I do. Thanks again.😊
I'm so glad it's helpful! Hope you enjoy using the method!
I’m so excited about your video series! I’ve been wanting to learn more about this method and I think your videos will really be helpful.
Thank you so much!
Thank you for this series! I have felt pretty frustrated by the traditional methods (and a little irked with how they tend to describe bodies and fitting). This gives me another doorway into the world of fitting, and makes me feel much more confident about learning how to make pants that fit my body!
I’m excited for this channel! I’ve done my one-leg muslin according to tdco, but I haven’t translated it to a pair of pants yet. I’m not sure why I’m intimidated!
Ah yes, transferring the adjustments can be intimidating. I'll cover that at the end of the series!
Thank You!
Thank you for doing this. I am hopeful for this approach, but I have fallen for the "this pattern fits everyone right out of the envelope" and "this fitting guide will solve all your problems" many times. I hope coming videos will cover how to use the method for varied pants profiles, not just the classic trouser. The pool of vintage patterns that meet the requirements seems to be drying up! And I would really like to just use the patterns I already have.
Loving the concept of this 'alternative' fitting method but especially your careful, understandable explanation of it. Thank you so much for compiling this series. I'm wondering if this method might work for fitting skirts too? Can't do a half- toile obviously but being able to fit a skirt in the same manner might help those who have one hip higher than the other for example. Thanks again, I will certainly be trying this out 😊
Glad it is helpful! Yes, this will absolutely work for skirts, and in fact a skirt would be a great place to start if you want to dip your toe in the water before moving on to pants. Obviously skirts don't have a crotch seam, so that element of fitting is removed here. You would just need to focus on the fit of the waistband, the amount of vertical length needed between the waistband location and your hip location, and then circumference of the skirt. Hope you enjoy using the method!
I will let you know how it goes. I've actually planned to make some shorts first. The pattern includes pants (full length and capris) and 2 lengths of skirt so, hopefully, I'll get to make them all!
Hi ya love the video, can top down centre out be done with a trouser pattern with a yoke?
Yes it can! I'm working on some new material that will address this topic, so stay tuned.
@@thecrookedhem great look forward to seeing how it can be done👍
This great for Woven Fabrics as mentioned in the series and I'm currently trying it out now. Is there another method to help with fitting stretch fabrics?
This method works for stretch fabrics too! For a stretch fabric, you would want to make a full two-legged toile instead of a one-legged toile. A two legged toile will allow you to achieve the desired stretch through the torso without the center front and center back seams distorting. You will follow the same steps as for a one-legged toile, but just try your best to pin the toile evenly on both sides of the body. If you find that your changes are uneven on left and right sides, then it's up to you whether you want to average the changes and make them equal on both sides, or keep them asymmetrical for the final garment.
@@thecrookedhem excellent! Thank you I will definitely try this after my woven attempt. Thank you
Hi Stacey, I bought a jogger pattern from Apostrophe Patterns. It isn't normal pattern with multiple sizes to choose from. It is a pattern generator, and you input your measurements into the generator and it makes a pattern for you according to your measurements (sorry for explaining if you already know them). So my question is, can this method work for the pattern I generated with this?
Hello! Yes, it is possible to apply the principles of Top Down Center Out to a custom draft like the joggers from Apostrophe Patterns, but it would not be my recommendation as an entry point to learning how to fit patterns. There are a few reasons for this. First, it's unclear how or whether these custom-generated patterns are tested, and therefore the quality of the drafting is a big unknown. In general, multi-sized patterns that have been tested on lots of bodies by an experienced designer tend to be higher quality than those that haven't, meaning that they will need fewer fit adjustments to fit most people well. Second, having a nested multi-sized pattern is a huge advantage when learning how to fit bc making the pattern larger or smaller will be much easier. For example, if the maker determines that the body needs more space in the crotch seam, it's straightforward to trace the next size up when using a multi-sized pattern. If there is no "next size up", then one would need to know how to grade the pattern up to the next size while also maintaining the balance, proportion, and overall design of the original. This is a whole different skillset apart from fitting, and learning how to grade while also learning how to fit can get complicated.
So if you are just starting out with Top Down Center Out fitting, then I'd recommend starting with a nested, multi-sized pattern like the Shop Pants from Open Studio Patterns, the Protea Pants from Paradise Patterns, or the Peppermint Wide Leg pants from In the Folds/Peppermint magazine (free!).
I've you've been practicing Top Down Center Out with other patterns and feel comfortable applying the method to different types of designs, then tackling the Apostrophe joggers could be a good challenge to stretch your skills.
Hope that helps!
Thank you so much for your thoughtful reply🙂. Can the method be used on knit pants (not just knit waistband, the whole pant is knit)?
@@leandrikos1659 Yes, you can use TDCO with a knit pants pattern. In that case, you will construct a full toile (two legs) and fit on both sides of the body. The reason for the two legged toile is because a knit pattern will have negative ease, and with a one-legged toile, the center front and center back of the knit will pull away from your center, making it difficult to gauge the fit. With a two legged toile, you can keep the center line of the pants in line with your center. Then you will follow the method the same as you would with any other pattern -- fitting waistband first, then crotch seam, then sides. Do your best to make equal modifications to both side seams, if there are small inconsistencies from left to right side, then you can take the average of the two.
Where can I find a TDCO video without a threads subscription or snap chat
Can I use this method for fitting a pattern that I have made for myself, using my own measurements? In the series, there is nothing mentioned about that, the pattern used is a commercial pattern. Aaand, as far as I understood, this method can only be used with nested commercial patterns. Is that right..?
You could certainly try this method on a pattern you've drafted yourself, but you are correct that Top Down Center Out is not optimized for self-drafted patterns. If you do use it, keep in mind that the self-drafting formulas available to home sewists generally produce garments that will need more adjusting/refinement in order to fit well as compared to something that has been commercially designed and tested. You will also not have the benefit of the multi-sizing or nesting, which will make grading up or down much more challenging.
But, ultimately, the best pattern to use is the one you are the most motivated to make.
There are two aspects to #TopDownCenterOut, creating the platform that facilitates fitting and the process that guides the fitting. When using this for both creating a design as well as fitting the design the considerations relating to the pattern design are not relevant. But the platform for assessment is still very useful, here is an example of somebody using approach to draft zero waste pants th-cam.com/video/vmDlxMtAd9M/w-d-xo.html
what pattern is she using??