"I'm not that good at CFD... So I built models and a wind tunnel in my basement" ...Bro, you modeled your diffuser with foamcore, hotglue, bbq skewers, and weed scales. I am impressed AF by your resourcefulness. You could have filmed those carbon fiber tests and done a "project farm" style video. I'm sure a bunch of us would want to see that. I didn't know that you could use foam inserts without vacuum bagging, I thought it wouldn't wet all the way through. Could you have used wet layup with honeycomb material?
Foam is much easier to work with than honeycomb. Honeycomb really does have layer bonding issues and it’s best to use a thicker resin or add micro balloons to the resin to increase the bond area with it. Foam was a great choice here.
Nicolas, the resin doesn't soak through the foam core, just the surface and depending on the type cell structure, may penetrate slightly. With an open cell type foam a slurry can be made by adding micro balloons (microscopic hollow glass spheres) to the resin and coating the surface of the foam and allowed to cure. That will seal the foam and prevent the resin from soaking in once the fabric and resin is added.
Best series on TH-cam! The car is almost done I'm so sad I don't want this series to end. I wish you made enough money from TH-cam to keep making cars.
Not only that went to the point of measuring the downforce on each axle to see what was gonna give him the best possible setup. Dude just rocked my mind with cardboard and a fan lol
for the next version, one can avoid extra resin by adding "tear veil" on top (it absorbs the extra resin and as it names implies one justtear it away when polymerised) - also, more importantly, pockets between the top and the bottom layer of carbon fiber (to bond them together) is what would make the sandwich resisting delamination...
Check out this guy, building planes rather than cars, but doing a lot of CFK work on „scrappy“ also explains how to avoid carbon Aluminium contact etc. th-cam.com/channels/Svdee86uThqIrloZjWwNVg.html you can also see him vacuum bag a lot and/or at least scrape of excess resin as much as possible ! Too much resin isn‘t just weight, also a pocket of just resin will br brittle and crack , if water enters the crack, the aging will start, much worse if it freezes at any point in time....
I highly recommend covering the open ends of the foam with carbon by adding a small strip of carbon cloth that is kept to both sides of the panels with epoxy. The way the panels are made right now they are very likely to start peeling from the foam.
Johan Petersson you can tell by the snapping of it that the foam is more like styrofoam. Probably won’t absorb any water. I agree though that the edges should be covered. I would have done that first then the main surfaces.
limitliss styrofoam or eps absorbs a lot of water, it’s an open cell foam unless it’s surface filled. This sort of foam he is using won’t absorb as much. But yes. He should have watched some surfboard manufacturing videos and lapped the edges
Been there done that way back in 1978 -1980. I note how AMAZED you were with the transformation with your two element rear wing . flapping around in the breeze . Your wing element mounted in the under body airflow will achieve exponentially more downforce . your two element wing will have a diluted performance due to the atmospheric pressure diluting the airflow over your high mounted wing . Simple demonstration .. lower your hand over a vacuum hose / carburettor ona running engine and see how the atmospheric pressure on your hand instantly forces your hand onto the vacuum cleaner hose .. the race track cannot be sucked up towards your wing so atmospheric pressure will generate a huge down force from as low as 40mph . I had to upgrade my rear springs from 320 to 800 lb rate .plus two cellular bump stops .Richard Wallinger ex 1980 Donnington GT championship winner . Stay safe. drive 90% that way you are super smooth and achieve 100% laptimes .Racing lines are totally different with downforce .. brake late turn in late then use the open corner to accelerate early taking advantage of the huge exponential increase in downforce as your speed increases .. taking advantage of the extra tracktion which comes from the aero downforce .90% of your braking should be done in the first 10 yards .when the speed and downforce is at its highest.. Install your pour in support seat inner prior to all of this silly stuff.. you are on a steep learning curve . richardwallinger@gmail.com.
Those diffuser strakes will also reduce disrupted flow caused by tire squirt. The strakes will keep the turbulent air separated from the rest of the air in the diffuser and give you more reliable down-force. I can't wait to see the car fully dressed, thank you for sharing.
The E55 ASL is coming along so nicely. You show that anything and everything is always possible through a bit of ingenuity, time and a lot of hard work. The wind tunnel scale model and experiment was absolutely EPIC experimentation! Just like the big manufacturers! I'm really excited to see the dyno video and numbers for each pull with your ECU tuning on the AMG M113k engine. Amazing time attack machine so far!
That wind tunnel though!! 😯 Potentiometers wear, why not a sealed encoder, or capacitive proximity sensors? Regarding compressed air, I have no idea how to mount a truck's compressor, but I thought to mention it.
@sk8215 You are a maniac. I’ve been following you for years and watching your videos and you do not fail to amaze. You created a wind tunnel and used digital scales to measure downforce, pure genius. I absolutely love watching you solve problems, keep it going. You are amazing!
After suiting up , with gloves taped to wrists, cover face & exposed skin with a coat of barrier cream and let it dry. Then put a second coat on. If working in sun then apply 50 plus sun screen. Finish with a big dusting of talc powder. At end of work cutting carbon etc, blow off dust, then wash off. This also is good sanding epoxy etc. Breath through mask that is appropriate for the materials.
I have watched this series starting from the rebuild of the M113k engine itself and I have come to realize one thing... I'm going to have to step up my game. Awesome job good sir!
The diffuser experiment seemed so cool. If you have time in the winter you could take us through that plus the more important calculations you've done on the car.
If you use a small roller when applying the resin you can get a very nice uniform surface and will not have excess resin left on the piece. There are specific resin rollers available, they have a bunch of ridges in them. Try local boat makers or fibreglass producers.
Get yourself a thin clean-suit/forensic type overall and and work the resin from the inside center of the large panels out towards the corners while moving carefully on your hands and knees. Stay in socks so you can slide over the surface and your shoes don't abrade or tugg on the fabric while you work. It will allow you to use the scraper and be more efficient with your use of resin. Love the build keep going big lad.
more veins in the diffuser will add more downforce, also might want to add more exits for the turbulent front tire air to not disturb the under body air flow. then again the design is perfect already, love it!.
Watching you hold the carbon fiber panels is super weird because you would think something that size would bend, but then the whole thing is so stiff... Looking awesome. I don't envy you the fenders.
For the skirts I would use a UHMW PE sheet that is mounted with slots to the carbon vertical sides so it can actually ride on the ground and move with the suspension. The famous "fan car" that was quickly banned from f1 in the 80's had a system like that.
I love your practical way of getting the job done . Your diffuser is a good area . It will need side fences which seal to the track surface . to prevent air bleed from entering the sides . your lower wing element .. The big bit .. would be excellent for a ground effects addition . mount the wing under the diffuser as low as possible start at 1 1/4 inches off the track . you will know when it activates usually above 60 mph .the car will start to slam down markedly at the rear . and if your rear springs cannot handle it the car will porpoise with the reduced air gap under the wing resulting in an air dam effect .. causing the rear downforce to drop off suddenly . I could take 90 mph corners at 128 mph entry speed .118 exit speed due to the 3 plus G cornering forces . I only had 140 bhp from a Hillman imp engine .. running 45 Dellorto carbs and 38 chokes .. a 1980 one litre GT championship class . I could outbrake any of the opposition by over 50 yards into the Donnington .chicane. after one of my outbraking moves the guy i had passed lost it and punted me off the track . I rejoined and almost had a big scare going down the Craner curves flat out .. I had picked up a cone and it was blocking a lot of airflow under my rear Ground effects wing . SO YES the low mounted wing does produce huge down force with virtually no drag penalties. The ends of the wing need to seal against your diffuser sideplates . I like your diffuser retaining steel cables. they could be run forward to a control lever in your cockpit. To allow you to raise or lower the trailing edge of you diffuser and ground effect wing . Remember with all of the aeros working you have to get 90% of your braking done before the speed comes below 100mph. / 80 mph . windeoff up to 50% rear brake balance in the wet. That way you will stand a good chance of not swapping ends . You already know what that feels like .. LOL.
What can I say that other people haven't. I think I look forward to your videos more than any other TH-camr. Keep up the good work, and mind that carbon fibre dust.
Is there a reason you didn't run the compressor off of a 12 vdc motor? The inverter set up you went with seems like a really long way to go for compressed air in a vehicle. I have to assume you considered a compressor for an air bag set up (12v), or replacing the motor in the compressor you used with a 12v one. Additionally offroad guys regularly convert their ac compressors to air compressors. Sorry if you covered it before, i didn't catch it.
Oh, and if there are area’s where you have to glue the carbon, use peel ply. This will give you a perfect “rough” finish once peeled of after the epoxy is dried.
I think I hear more excitement in your voice in this video that the previous ones, you are getting so close now. I had two thoughts while watching, first did you consider using one of the rollers that they use for fiberglass which helps with resin distribution? Second could you use a cheap shop vac with disposable paper filters to suck up the carbon fiber dust as you cut it?
The vacuum bagging is there to take away the “brushing” time... well reduce the brush-time. It’s good to lay down a coat of resin to help drapping your carbon fibre. Love your work. Constructive criticism 🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀🍀🍀🇦🇺🤓
Hey man! Awesome work. One tip - if you are going to hand laminate the whole bodywork, I recommend watching some surfboard lamination videos on TH-cam. They have a lot of little tips and tricks on how to get a light and tight lamination. If you are using carbon fibre, get a rubber surfboard laminators squeegee for pushing excess resin out and getting a more Even tight bond into the foam. Also, would it be worth lapping the edges for some extra strength? I noticed you had some extra ribs /crossmembers in your layup - nice!!!
Have a try massaging the fibre / resin mix with your finger tips before squeegeeing off excess resin. This technique especially works with Kevlar cloth. I might not spell well but have more than one world championship sailboat out of my hands.
a jig saw (diamond,hack saw,or carbide blade) will reduce dust about 75%. covering the part with peel ply will smooth it out and give the bag look, changing fiber direction in the layers will greatly increase stiffness creating hard spots for your jack and fasteners would be an impovment
carbon fibre corrodes metals when in direct contact. also you should consider reinforcing sections of your undertray with aramid fibres to form skidpads. also sandwichpanels should not have open edges. ideally you would add carbon fibre around the edge (probably requires vacuum) alternatively you could use some type of viscous adhesive.
To get a nice shiny finish put bib bag liner or something like that in top and use the roller to squash it on and it makes a very nice shiny carbon fibre finish on the epoxy.
You should always use opposing and crossing fiber directions. This is very important for strenght. Usually 45° between each layer and different tows too. You tested it one way? Cool, but it might break easily on the otherway. ALWAYS vacuum bag if mold+press or proper manufacturing tools are not available. I have a lot of carbonfiber part development on my car and also foam cored parts. Good luck. :) Do not set your self for failure, in racecar et means injury or death.
Have you looked into vortex generators or turning vanes as opposed to a skirt to seal your underbody? I'm working on a design for my own car, and I thought about a skirt, but being street driven, I feel that any material with enough deflection to accommodate for road imperfections would also displace due to the aero forces. Unless you went with a firmer material and some sort of trap door mechanism, which would just add weight and complexity...
Sometimes he adds tech for, what seems like, the sake of adding tech. Ditch the air shifting shenanigans, drop a bunch of weight and have peace of mind knowing that you don’t have a bunch of jenky parts that could cause a failure on an otherwise amazingly built/engineered car.
@@carportshenanigans5918 Exactly.. I could understand this shifting system as a demonstration of his enginiering skills... in that case this is an excellent job, but for the reliability of a race car I think it is not a good idea at all... Also, I don't think this hybrid system is faster or efficcient than shifting this manual transmission by hand xD
@Cristian, it’s definitely a cool excercise in engineering. Reminds me of all the shenanigans he had on the old car with electronic throttle bodies and computers and all sorts of sensors when the turbos should just be blowing directly into the SC inlet. Oh well, nothing wrong with experimenting...great way to learn.
You can use the selector rod, top cover, and gear position sensor from a 370z on your transmission. It has to be for a synchro revmatch transmission. Magnetic multi axes proximity sensor.
Amazing job! I understand that you have a lot of work going, but is there any chance to make a video on how you made the wind tunnel? I can’t wait to see this monster on the track and to see people’s reaction when they realize that you’ve made this car in your garage. Respect!
What might be interesting to implement is to 3d-print a teardrop-shape that could fit around your hockeypuck fastener. This will reduce drag by 60-90% on the fastener and improve airflow around it by reducing the turbulent wake to laminar flow instead. The reduction of drag is of course depending on the shape you'll make the teardrop shape, but by just adding a pointy end to your puck, it will reduce drag on it by approximately 60%.
john devries Hi, I’ve always thought that golf balls have dimples. 😜 But in al seriousness, do you know for certain that/if little bubbles would have the same effect? (I’m genuinely interested, not trying to win an argument)
@@Conservator. I think the effect would be the same, trying to disrupt the boundary layer to prevent drag, anyway it sounds good, I can't prove it though.
Well done to all the great work you have done, you are definitely inspiring a lot of people including myself! I'm sure you can use plastic gardening edging for the sideskirts. Seen MightyCarMods use it for that purpose.
Are you going with a swan neck rear wing mount or traditional like your design shows? I vote swan neck if that counts for anything. Absolutely amazing build so far. Can't wait to see this thing tear up the track. If you ever go to a track within 200 miles of Albany, NY (I know there aren't many good ones), I am willing to help be your pit crew. Pro bono.
I just found this project yesterday and i have bingewatched every single episode until this one since then, really enjoying it alot! Can't believe what you have achieved so far! One thing though: Welding a compressportank is dangerous, and i mean like really dangerous, it should NEVER be done! I would strongly advice to remove that now sevierly weakened tank as soon as possible and find another solution, something that can bolt on preferably. This tank is a potential bomb that could explode when you least expect it. I get that this car is a death trap anyway since it IS a racecar and not a streetcar, but you try to make it as safe as possible anyway and you should really consider it. Also isn't there any way to possibly drive a compressor straight from the engine and get rid of that heavy and clumpy inverter?
As usual, great content! It is a pleasure to follow your project, i hope you can share with us a lot of track action and further analysis and development... Congratulations!
I love the design of your car. Do you mind if I post a link to your videos on locostusa? I'm a bit concerned with your front spindles and also the attachment of your floor. When I built my car( phil's LS1 locost) I ended up using .090" 6061T6 and stainless rivets 2" on center for the floor. If you were to have an offtrack excursion your minimally attached floor could delaminate the way your splitter did and your legs could end up outside the car. I was also concerned about what would happen if I ran over something and it slit the floor like a can opener . If you added some thin aluminum strips below the floor and sandwiched the carbon between the frame and strip and increased the number of fasteners,it might prevent the floor delaminating if the weight of your legs loaded the floor heavily ( you choose what G force to design for in a crash). Not sure about the strength of thin carbon fiber in a can opener situation.
"I'm not that good at CFD... So I built models and a wind tunnel in my basement"
...Bro, you modeled your diffuser with foamcore, hotglue, bbq skewers, and weed scales. I am impressed AF by your resourcefulness.
You could have filmed those carbon fiber tests and done a "project farm" style video. I'm sure a bunch of us would want to see that.
I didn't know that you could use foam inserts without vacuum bagging, I thought it wouldn't wet all the way through. Could you have used wet layup with honeycomb material?
Foam is much easier to work with than honeycomb. Honeycomb really does have layer bonding issues and it’s best to use a thicker resin or add micro balloons to the resin to increase the bond area with it.
Foam was a great choice here.
This foam doesn't soak up resin. It's a little different from other core materials, I'll mention it more in the next video
weed scales.. lol
Nicolas, the resin doesn't soak through the foam core, just the surface and depending on the type cell structure, may penetrate slightly. With an open cell type foam a slurry can be made by adding micro balloons (microscopic hollow glass spheres) to the resin and coating the surface of the foam and allowed to cure. That will seal the foam and prevent the resin from soaking in once the fabric and resin is added.
That graphic design of the car looks incredible, loving the front/rear lights.
when I cut carbon, I hold a shop vac and handle of the tool at the same time in a way that the shop vac nozzle sucks up a lot of the dust as you cut.
yeah carbon dust will destroy electronics if not contained.
@@drivejapan6293 good point as well.
@@drivejapan6293 It will destroy your lungs too...
...and preferably somewhere outside
A even easier way is to use a skillsaw with a suction attachment, Then you will get a line as straight as a arrow, and no dust.
And I know He’s a young man and all, but Bendpak please, send the man a lift!
For real! Everyone go drop comments on there ig.
Someone get this guy a car lift already.
And a million subs
He should install some of those race car air jacks
Best series on TH-cam! The car is almost done I'm so sad I don't want this series to end. I wish you made enough money from TH-cam to keep making cars.
You think someone as skilled as him will ever be done! Bah, never.
I was thinking something similar but once it is done we get to see it racing and further development as the bugs are dealt with.
It's really only the beginning after it's done. More track days, racing events and probably a whole lot more future developments!
@@xfmotorsports WE CAN'T WAIT! thanks, for everything.
Man do I get excited when you upload.
>I made a small wind tunnel in my garage
bruh
(In his basement 😜)
But yes amazing indeed.
haha so good
Not only that went to the point of measuring the downforce on each axle to see what was gonna give him the best possible setup. Dude just rocked my mind with cardboard and a fan lol
for the next version, one can avoid extra resin by adding "tear veil" on top (it absorbs the extra resin and as it names implies one justtear it away when polymerised) - also, more importantly, pockets between the top and the bottom layer of carbon fiber (to bond them together) is what would make the sandwich resisting delamination...
when you are cutting carbon, sprinkle soapy water or water to catch the dust too!
I love how involved the community is getting, I hope some of that concept car transfers over to the real E55 ASL
Definitely the most impressive underrated car builder in the field rn
For the side skirts, you could use brushes like Indy cars used to do
Garden edging is another inexpensive easily sacrificial material.
HDPE would probably resist abrasion the longest and cause least amount of drag when in contact with the tarmac.
This is a ton of work for one guy!
and he shoots the videos, and edits them, and clearly dude's got a 9-5...he's an inspirational MACHINE!
Last tip :-)
Avoid aluminium hitting carbon. When aluminium hits bare carbon and water comes in between, the aluminium will be gone in no time.
Why?
Why? Because carbon is a conductor and you will get a potential difference between two materials.
Interested! Gonna try it
Check out this guy, building planes rather than cars, but doing a lot of CFK work on „scrappy“ also explains how to avoid carbon Aluminium contact etc. th-cam.com/channels/Svdee86uThqIrloZjWwNVg.html you can also see him vacuum bag a lot and/or at least scrape of excess resin as much as possible ! Too much resin isn‘t just weight, also a pocket of just resin will br brittle and crack , if water enters the crack, the aging will start, much worse if it freezes at any point in time....
This is such a sweet build, never seen someone build a race car from their garage
That's some grade A reverse psychology...
"Just don't anybody go and donate money as MiyataDriver75."
😉
I don't get it. And I'm curious
@@lor.ei.5454 Lol, well now we all know who the miata driver is
I highly recommend covering the open ends of the foam with carbon by adding a small strip of carbon cloth that is kept to both sides of the panels with epoxy. The way the panels are made right now they are very likely to start peeling from the foam.
And the foam core might suck up a lot of water as well...
Johan Petersson you can tell by the snapping of it that the foam is more like styrofoam. Probably won’t absorb any water. I agree though that the edges should be covered. I would have done that first then the main surfaces.
I hope i'm wrong. But i think this floor will snap on day one at the track.
You can also use paint on plastidip
limitliss styrofoam or eps absorbs a lot of water, it’s an open cell foam unless it’s surface filled. This sort of foam he is using won’t absorb as much. But yes. He should have watched some surfboard manufacturing videos and lapped the edges
I learned more from this 20 minute video than I did in the 3 science lessons I had this week. Keep it up!
How does this guy only have 45K subscribers? Never seen a build like this. Absolutely insane.
Completely glossed over the fact you made your own WINDTUNNEL!! I'd like to see a video just on that!!
Been there done that way back in 1978 -1980. I note how AMAZED you were with the transformation with your two element rear wing . flapping around in the breeze . Your wing element mounted in the under body airflow will achieve exponentially more downforce . your two element wing will have a diluted performance due to the atmospheric pressure diluting the airflow over your high mounted wing . Simple demonstration .. lower your hand over a vacuum hose / carburettor ona running engine and see how the atmospheric pressure on your hand instantly forces your hand onto the vacuum cleaner hose .. the race track cannot be sucked up towards your wing so atmospheric pressure will generate a huge down force from as low as 40mph . I had to upgrade my rear springs from 320 to 800 lb rate .plus two cellular bump stops .Richard Wallinger ex 1980 Donnington GT championship winner . Stay safe. drive 90% that way you are super smooth and achieve 100% laptimes .Racing lines are totally different with downforce .. brake late turn in late then use the open corner to accelerate early taking advantage of the huge exponential increase in downforce as your speed increases .. taking advantage of the extra tracktion which comes from the aero downforce .90% of your braking should be done in the first 10 yards .when the speed and downforce is at its highest.. Install your pour in support seat inner prior to all of this silly stuff.. you are on a steep learning curve . richardwallinger@gmail.com.
Those diffuser strakes will also reduce disrupted flow caused by tire squirt. The strakes will keep the turbulent air separated from the rest of the air in the diffuser and give you more reliable down-force. I can't wait to see the car fully dressed, thank you for sharing.
How much was the material cost for the entire floor as is?
Great work again mate. It is really coming together now.
This project and your success with it is truly one of the most inspiring things ive ever seen. I needed this.
Holy smokes ! Here because of the pic of the diffuser on the thumbnail staying subscribed with notifications because this is insane!!! LOVE IT !!!!
Can't understand why you haven't got more views on this. What a great project and outstanding work!
The E55 ASL is coming along so nicely. You show that anything and everything is always possible through a bit of ingenuity, time and a lot of hard work. The wind tunnel scale model and experiment was absolutely EPIC experimentation! Just like the big manufacturers!
I'm really excited to see the dyno video and numbers for each pull with your ECU tuning on the AMG M113k engine. Amazing time attack machine so far!
That wind tunnel though!! 😯
Potentiometers wear, why not a sealed encoder, or capacitive proximity sensors?
Regarding compressed air, I have no idea how to mount a truck's compressor, but I thought to mention it.
Air is being used, so pots make sense.
@sk8215 You are a maniac. I’ve been following you for years and watching your videos and you do not fail to amaze. You created a wind tunnel and used digital scales to measure downforce, pure genius. I absolutely love watching you solve problems, keep it going. You are amazing!
WOW the air tunnel and scales, what a great idea. Also the renders from the designer are pretty amazing.
Side skirts creates the “ground effect” ask lotus 😂😂
This guy is a real builder he do everything 😱
After suiting up , with gloves taped to wrists, cover face & exposed skin with a coat of barrier cream and let it dry. Then put a second coat on. If working in sun then apply 50 plus sun screen. Finish with a big dusting of talc powder. At end of work cutting carbon etc, blow off dust, then wash off. This also is good sanding epoxy etc. Breath through mask that is appropriate for the materials.
I have watched this series starting from the rebuild of the M113k engine itself and I have come to realize one thing... I'm going to have to step up my game. Awesome job good sir!
Great job of being resourceful, using what you have at hand is something you have made into an art form, awesome!!
the moment when you choose the ASL video over the new JP video :D
The diffuser experiment seemed so cool. If you have time in the winter you could take us through that plus the more important calculations you've done on the car.
If you use a small roller when applying the resin you can get a very nice uniform surface and will not have excess resin left on the piece. There are specific resin rollers available, they have a bunch of ridges in them. Try local boat makers or fibreglass producers.
Definitely wanna see that basement wind tunnel action! This whole build is just amazing!
Get yourself a thin clean-suit/forensic type overall and and work the resin from the inside center of the large panels out towards the corners while moving carefully on your hands and knees. Stay in socks so you can slide over the surface and your shoes don't abrade or tugg on the fabric while you work.
It will allow you to use the scraper and be more efficient with your use of resin. Love the build keep going big lad.
more veins in the diffuser will add more downforce, also might want to add more exits for the turbulent front tire air to not disturb the under body air flow. then again the design is perfect already, love it!.
Where did you source the Foam/what kind is it?
Watching you hold the carbon fiber panels is super weird because you would think something that size would bend, but then the whole thing is so stiff...
Looking awesome. I don't envy you the fenders.
When applying the resin you can use a paint roller to get more even spread and get rid of most of the air pockets much better than with a paint brush.
For the skirts I would use a UHMW PE sheet that is mounted with slots to the carbon vertical sides so it can actually ride on the ground and move with the suspension. The famous "fan car" that was quickly banned from f1 in the 80's had a system like that.
I love your practical way of getting the job done . Your diffuser is a good area . It will need side fences which seal to the track surface . to prevent air bleed from entering the sides . your lower wing element .. The big bit .. would be excellent for a ground effects addition . mount the wing under the diffuser as low as possible start at 1 1/4 inches off the track . you will know when it activates usually above 60 mph .the car will start to slam down markedly at the rear . and if your rear springs cannot handle it the car will porpoise with the reduced air gap under the wing resulting in an air dam effect .. causing the rear downforce to drop off suddenly . I could take 90 mph corners at 128 mph entry speed .118 exit speed due to the 3 plus G cornering forces . I only had 140 bhp from a Hillman imp engine .. running 45 Dellorto carbs and 38 chokes .. a 1980 one litre GT championship class . I could outbrake any of the opposition by over 50 yards into the Donnington .chicane. after one of my outbraking moves the guy i had passed lost it and punted me off the track . I rejoined and almost had a big scare going down the Craner curves flat out .. I had picked up a cone and it was blocking a lot of airflow under my rear Ground effects wing . SO YES the low mounted wing does produce huge down force with virtually no drag penalties. The ends of the wing need to seal against your diffuser sideplates . I like your diffuser retaining steel cables. they could be run forward to a control lever in your cockpit. To allow you to raise or lower the trailing edge of you diffuser and ground effect wing . Remember with all of the aeros working you have to get 90% of your braking done before the speed comes below 100mph. / 80 mph . windeoff up to 50% rear brake balance in the wet. That way you will stand a good chance of not swapping ends . You already know what that feels like .. LOL.
What can I say that other people haven't. I think I look forward to your videos more than any other TH-camr.
Keep up the good work, and mind that carbon fibre dust.
Just came across this... Very helpful. Looking at making a similar floor.
Will definitely check out the rest of the series!
Is there a reason you didn't run the compressor off of a 12 vdc motor? The inverter set up you went with seems like a really long way to go for compressed air in a vehicle. I have to assume you considered a compressor for an air bag set up (12v), or replacing the motor in the compressor you used with a 12v one. Additionally offroad guys regularly convert their ac compressors to air compressors. Sorry if you covered it before, i didn't catch it.
To clarify, I am not shitting on your project, you clearly know what you are doing. I am just curious what the benefit of the inverter set up is.
PO DUNK
Good question. That AC converter looks heavy.
As usual, you are very inspirational. You never fail to impress with your efforts.
Oh, and if there are area’s where you have to glue the carbon, use peel ply. This will give you a perfect “rough” finish once peeled of after the epoxy is dried.
I see a lot of air voids in the final diffuser but great job man. This build is all time.
wow I can't wait for the car to be finished this is my favorite build and something I would definitely do just need a couple more years of experience.
WOW this is f#@$ing incredible! Keep on sharing, your friends won't be laughing anymore.
Award for best use of a hockey puck coming ...
I think I hear more excitement in your voice in this video that the previous ones, you are getting so close now. I had two thoughts while watching, first did you consider using one of the rollers that they use for fiberglass which helps with resin distribution? Second could you use a cheap shop vac with disposable paper filters to suck up the carbon fiber dust as you cut it?
Constantly blown away!
The vacuum bagging is there to take away the “brushing” time... well reduce the brush-time. It’s good to lay down a coat of resin to help drapping your carbon fibre.
Love your work.
Constructive criticism 🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀🍀🍀🇦🇺🤓
Hey man! Awesome work. One tip - if you are going to hand laminate the whole bodywork, I recommend watching some surfboard lamination videos on TH-cam. They have a lot of little tips and tricks on how to get a light and tight lamination. If you are using carbon fibre, get a rubber surfboard laminators squeegee for pushing excess resin out and getting a more Even tight bond into the foam. Also, would it be worth lapping the edges for some extra strength? I noticed you had some extra ribs /crossmembers in your layup - nice!!!
Have a try massaging the fibre / resin mix with your finger tips before squeegeeing off excess resin. This technique especially works with Kevlar cloth. I might not spell well but have more than one world championship sailboat out of my hands.
you make me want to start my project car
amazing job man, keep it up, you're a big inspiration for your people
a jig saw (diamond,hack saw,or carbide blade) will reduce dust about 75%. covering the part with peel ply will smooth it out and give the bag look, changing fiber direction in the layers will greatly increase stiffness creating hard spots for your jack and fasteners would be an impovment
carbon fibre corrodes metals when in direct contact. also you should consider reinforcing sections of your undertray with aramid fibres to form skidpads. also sandwichpanels should not have open edges. ideally you would add carbon fibre around the edge (probably requires vacuum) alternatively you could use some type of viscous adhesive.
I can't believe you are doing this in your garage. ✌😲
crazy design from the guy !! really cool.
To get a nice shiny finish put bib bag liner or something like that in top and use the roller to squash it on and it makes a very nice shiny carbon fibre finish on the epoxy.
You should always use opposing and crossing fiber directions. This is very important for strenght. Usually 45° between each layer and different tows too. You tested it one way? Cool, but it might break easily on the otherway. ALWAYS vacuum bag if mold+press or proper manufacturing tools are not available. I have a lot of carbonfiber part development on my car and also foam cored parts. Good luck. :) Do not set your self for failure, in racecar et means injury or death.
Have you looked into vortex generators or turning vanes as opposed to a skirt to seal your underbody?
I'm working on a design for my own car, and I thought about a skirt, but being street driven, I feel that any material with enough deflection to accommodate for road imperfections would also displace due to the aero forces.
Unless you went with a firmer material and some sort of trap door mechanism, which would just add weight and complexity...
This is an awesome build.
3:12 good 'ole "diamond" scales. you know, for all my wee... diamonds!
Humbling skills, my friend!
Great video. Which foam core did you use?
Have you considered using Hall effect devices instead of reed switches for the gear sensing? They would be much smaller and faster than reed switches
Yes, that would have been better but potentiometers are a more precise solution, since they'll tell the exact position and even speed of movement
almost done bro! looking great!
Great job with the floor
but
Remove all this messy shifting system and go for simply manual shifting
Cristian and save a load of precious weight by removing the compressor, inverter, air tank, pneumatic cylinders, linkages, control system ...
Sometimes he adds tech for, what seems like, the sake of adding tech. Ditch the air shifting shenanigans, drop a bunch of weight and have peace of mind knowing that you don’t have a bunch of jenky parts that could cause a failure on an otherwise amazingly built/engineered car.
@@carportshenanigans5918 Exactly.. I could understand this shifting system as a demonstration of his enginiering skills... in that case this is an excellent job, but for the reliability of a race car I think it is not a good idea at all... Also, I don't think this hybrid system is faster or efficcient than shifting this manual transmission by hand xD
@Cristian, it’s definitely a cool excercise in engineering. Reminds me of all the shenanigans he had on the old car with electronic throttle bodies and computers and all sorts of sensors when the turbos should just be blowing directly into the SC inlet. Oh well, nothing wrong with experimenting...great way to learn.
So close already... I can see it! Keep up the great work my dude!
You can use the selector rod, top cover, and gear position sensor from a 370z on your transmission. It has to be for a synchro revmatch transmission. Magnetic multi axes proximity sensor.
Amazing job! I understand that you have a lot of work going, but is there any chance to make a video on how you made the wind tunnel?
I can’t wait to see this monster on the track and to see people’s reaction when they realize that you’ve made this car in your garage.
Respect!
Grate dude and the car is awesome. The only thing I don't like is your shifting solution. It have to be a better solution out there.?
What might be interesting to implement is to 3d-print a teardrop-shape that could fit around your hockeypuck fastener. This will reduce drag by 60-90% on the fastener and improve airflow around it by reducing the turbulent wake to laminar flow instead.
The reduction of drag is of course depending on the shape you'll make the teardrop shape, but by just adding a pointy end to your puck, it will reduce drag on it by approximately 60%.
Someone should gift him a 3d printer. I'd like to see him use it to cast his own parts.
Hey doesn't the non vacuum bagged carbon fiber increase drag?
I think the bubbles were on the top, so the bottom should be smooth.
@@Conservator. even if the bubbles are on the bottom the boundary layer will act like a golf ball and help the air move off the panel
john devries Hi,
I’ve always thought that golf balls have dimples. 😜
But in al seriousness, do you know for certain that/if little bubbles would have the same effect? (I’m genuinely interested, not trying to win an argument)
@@Conservator. I think the effect would be the same, trying to disrupt the boundary layer to prevent drag, anyway it sounds good, I can't prove it though.
john devries 👍
You should try to use some first gen CLS headlights. Still has that slim aggressive look but pays homage to the benz heart.
Awesome work, "easy as.." yeah you make it look so easy and I like it ahah. Fun to watch, rare video that I don't skip.
Metal inserts (or solid hard plastic) in the foam at the mounting points might be a good idea...
Excellent work as usual
Well done to all the great work you have done, you are definitely inspiring a lot of people including myself! I'm sure you can use plastic gardening edging for the sideskirts. Seen MightyCarMods use it for that purpose.
Your custom car is incredible bro... Fekin beautiful
Well done but considering all the resin you used, would it not have been easier and lighter to just use thin aluminum sheet?
Are you going with a swan neck rear wing mount or traditional like your design shows? I vote swan neck if that counts for anything.
Absolutely amazing build so far. Can't wait to see this thing tear up the track. If you ever go to a track within 200 miles of Albany, NY (I know there aren't many good ones), I am willing to help be your pit crew. Pro bono.
Did you use washers or an equivalent to distribute the compressive force of the mounting bolts on the composite?
I just found this project yesterday and i have bingewatched every single episode until this one since then, really enjoying it alot! Can't believe what you have achieved so far! One thing though: Welding a compressportank is dangerous, and i mean like really dangerous, it should NEVER be done! I would strongly advice to remove that now sevierly weakened tank as soon as possible and find another solution, something that can bolt on preferably. This tank is a potential bomb that could explode when you least expect it. I get that this car is a death trap anyway since it IS a racecar and not a streetcar, but you try to make it as safe as possible anyway and you should really consider it. Also isn't there any way to possibly drive a compressor straight from the engine and get rid of that heavy and clumpy inverter?
As usual, great content!
It is a pleasure to follow your project, i hope you can share with us a lot of track action and further analysis and development...
Congratulations!
I love the design of your car. Do you mind if I post a link to your videos on locostusa? I'm a bit concerned with your front spindles and also the attachment of your floor. When I built my car( phil's LS1 locost) I ended up using .090" 6061T6 and stainless rivets 2" on center for the floor. If you were to have an offtrack excursion your minimally attached floor could delaminate the way your splitter did and your legs could end up outside the car. I was also concerned about what would happen if I ran over something and it slit the floor like a can opener . If you added some thin aluminum strips below the floor and sandwiched the carbon between the frame and strip and increased the number of fasteners,it might prevent the floor delaminating if the weight of your legs loaded the floor heavily ( you choose what G force to design for in a crash). Not sure about the strength of thin carbon fiber in a can opener situation.
Damn those designs are amazing
Those images by that designer are HOT!
you could use POM plastic for the skirts maybe
I was born with tv. This is way better because of channels like this. Love this project.
This is a beast!
Any reason you didn't fold the fiber over the edges? Brilliant work as always anyway!!!