Kodak Tmax 400 Pushed to ISO 51,200 (7 Stops)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.พ. 2019
- Hey guys! In this video I explain how I pushed a roll of Tmax 400 (7 stops) to ISO 51,200. I explain my exposure and development process, and include a first-person shooting view for the images.
The purpose of doing this test was so I can find a good approximate development time, because after searching quite a bit I wasn't able to find anything online any ISO above 6400 for Tmax liquid developer. This is not a scientific assessment of the high ISO capabilities of Tmax, but a casual description of what I did.
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FIMF Links:
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Pedro from Film Love Photography was kind enough to lead us out!
Website- filmlovephotography.wordpress...
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Development notes:
TMAX liquid developer 1+4 dilution, 75°F (24°C) at 12.5 minutes.
1. - 1 min pre-soak at 75°F
2. - 12.5 Mins development, Patterson Tank spin-rod agitation for 5 seconds every 30 seconds
3. - 1 min rinse with water 75°F
4. - Photographers Formulary TF-4 Fixer for 4:30. Spin-rod agitation every 30 seconds
5. - 10 minute wash/ rinse
6. - 1 min photoflo (15 sec agitation) with distilled water
7. - 4 hours hang dry
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Hi there. I'm Chris. Film is more fun is a place where I share about whatever busted up old camera I'm currently shooting and tinkering with, or my meanderings in film photography.
It would be pretty rad if you said what's up. I'm 99% friendly. Definitely do that.
Disclaimer: If you want technical proficiency go watch 'The Art of Photography' (love that show). These videos are more like an elderly person navigating a tv clicker.
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Kodak Info Sheet for TMAX 400:
imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/...
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Music Credits:
Dusted Wax Kingdom
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Tags:
tmax, 3200, kodak, ilford, delta, film, film is more fun, develop, self-develop, photography, analog, lightroom, adobe, darkroom, olympus, nikon, pentax, yashica, minolta, canon, 35mm, 120, portra, superia, fuji, lomo, ektachrome, super 8, photoshop, grain, 1600, roll, velvia, xp2, hp5, ektar, 51,200 iso, 400, overexpose, underexpose, pushing, pulling, film photography, harrisburg, pa, pennsylvania, camera, vintage, - ภาพยนตร์และแอนิเมชัน
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I love the results. They look dreary and creepy. Definitely would be interesting to see during Halloween etc..
I'm all about dreary and creepy photos! Just like anytime it's foggy out, I've got to grab a camera and get out shooting immediately haha 🙂
This is neat for astrophotography at non-telescopic focal lengths :)
Ive shot TriX at 12,800 and 25,600 at night high school football games. Most images lacked shadow detail and could not be cropped to much. Im so glad for digital cameras to shot at night.
How was the grain in those images?
filmismorefun grain visible with the naked eye.
@@bngr_bngr So, do you think it added to the images in a positive way? Sometimes I find it really gives particular images great character... and of course others don't benefit at all.
filmismorefun its a look I dont prefer. I mostly prefer the look of digital files over film.
Really cool, very very interesting. Some of the results had softer focus, which I imagine is to be expected, but I wondered about whether there's any chance the ND filter caused any of that. I know that the Hoya filter you show at the start is pretty decent though I think, so maybe not, but I think ND filter quality varies a lot, so maybe? I wonder if something like Tri-X would have similar results overall, or be noticeably better/worse, and it's definitely something I'd like to try out sometime just for fun. Thanks for making the video, it's so, so good to have experiments like this up to watch and for people to possibly build on.
Thanks Andrew! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I think part of the softness may be due to the lens I was shooting with (24-120 f4 zoom). It also could be some of the compression of TH-cam. I've noticed oddly enough, that after uploading, some of the still in the videos look worse.
I see you with the Recto and the Rg in the background.
Yeah buddy \m/
I shoot color transparency film, but I LOVE that you experimented with this!
It was a fun experiment!
Very nice! I am inspired to try this too. You said you metered externally for 6400, but show with 3x ND to get the extra stops. Were you on a tripod after composing? Were you able to see through the viewfinder/lens enough with the 3ND filter to compose and focus? I'm asking as all my 35mm cameras are manual focus. The highest I have ever pushed any film was Ektachrome 400 5 stops so I could shoot in extremely low light during a half moon night in Antarctica. Developing was tough but the slides actually came out with the neat images.
Hey Chris! I had to meter for 6400 because my Sekonic light meter only goes as high as 8,000 iso. I didn't (and couldn't) rely on the internal meter in my f100. Yes, I am able to see through a 3 stop ND to compose, and used autofocus. Manual focusing may be a bit trickier depending on the lighting and subject though. I didn't need a tripod because all speeds were very fast which is why I needed the ND filter to slow them down a bit, so the camera didn't lock up. I hope that helps! 🙂
Wow!!!
Hi ! Interesting result, but could you try in real low light condition? I think the result should be very different... i push HP5 or TMAX at 3200 and during daylight nearly no more grain ( but contrast) than at 400 iso setting but in very dim light it's a really an other story.
Hi Emmanuel! I may test that in the future now that I have a base development time to work from. I agree, most likely it would not hold up so well at night.
I just shot some Ektar 100 at 6400(for the same reason: why not? Experimenting is fun), so I tried to find a good example of some film pushed seven stops and found your video, and, I gotta say, your video has me excited. These shots look absolutely fantastic.
Hey thanks! I'd be curious to know what kind of color shifts will happen with your roll of Ektar at 6400!
Well, I’m still having trouble finding a lab that will even touch it! Lol. I don’t have the space or materials(or the knowledge of how) to develop my own film, otherwise I’d give it a go.
@@corycampbell6370 You can get a c41 kit and the equipment needed for about $50. I made a how to step by step video on developing color at home, and as far as pushing the roll 7 stops, you just add a certain amount of time for each additional stop. The results might not be true anyway if you send it to a lab, because they may automatically try to color-correct the images. You totally got this 🙂
@@filmismorefun You know what? I think I'll give it a go! Do you know where I can find a developing time for each stop? Also, what's the name of your video guide, because I'm going to want to consult that first. Lol.
There will usually be instructions on the chemical kit on how long to extend the time per stop. I know many people use a general guide of 1-1:15 per stop.
One thing to keep in mind is how important it will be keeping the temp consistent for the duration of the development. C41 can be a bit temperature fussy,and doen't like fluctuations especially if you plan on extending the times.
Here is a link to the video for you: th-cam.com/video/ez_2KTAWSbI/w-d-xo.html and in the description there are links to what I used and also written instructions to the process.
Also, I usually batch develop a few rolls at a time to make it easier once everything is set up and at temperature.
Good luck, I'd love to know how it goes!
So being new to anologue photography .. When would this used? Would this benefit the darkroom to then (push/pull) in post ? To be honest I'm not too sure what exactly push or pull means 😀🤔.. Great vid by the way
Thanks David! Glad you enjoyed the video. "Pushing" your film is essentially underexposing your film, and developing for that underexposure, and pulling your film is overexposing your film and developing for that overexposure. All in relation to the actual related iso speed of the film.
For example; you most likely would choose to shoot with a high iso film in lower light scenes to compensate for the lack of light. So, pushing could give you a benefit of higher iso (and in turn higher shutter speeds) with a film that normally might not provide adequate settings at box speed. Hope that helps!
Yes that helps .. A little till. Now a digital shooter thinking like this is new ... As in camera you can be lazy .... And bring in the shot in software ... In film you really need to plan more to get the exposure you want to work with in the darkroom...... Digital togging is cheating the photography ... May more to the software than the art of reading the light .... Hope that makes Sence 🤔🤔??
@@david72lansdell You're right- you definitely have to plan ahead when shooting film!
I have a friend who pushes Rollei RPX400 to ISO 100.000 using his own custom reversal process, and he gets pretty decent results.
No kidding? I'd love to see his results, does he have anything posted online?
@@filmismorefun Look him up on Facebook, Fernando Pastor, he posts stuff on some Film photography Fb groups and on his profile.
@@FirstOnRaceDayCapri2904 Awesome, thanks for the heads up I'll check him out.
@@FirstOnRaceDayCapri2904 what groups please ?
@@FirstOnRaceDayCapri2904 Could you send me a link? I can't seem to find him.
Can you push color film aswell, like into those extrems?
Sure, you can push color film. Some film actually looks better pushed or pulled in my opinion. However, I don't know that you could push it to the extremes like this. Unlike black white you'll get color shifts in addition to loss of detail. It could be a fun experiment, though!
So, it's possible to draw a parallel between tmax developer time increasing and other developers, such as pyrocat he and fx1
Hi Manoel! I don't know, sorry! I've only used TMax, D76, and Ilfosol 3.
@@filmismorefun they are nice... i used that examples because they are stronger than d76 and so.. like hc100... so good for pushing, microphen is another designed for push
@@manoelalmeida4773 Thanks for the info. The next developer I'll try would probably be hc110, because there are a lot of people who love it.
@@filmismorefun i'hope you can getr nice stuff with it
Chris I'm on the hunt for the best solution for Tri-X shot at EI 6400 or EI 12800. I've got a concert roll I need to develop. Stage lighting was horrible. There is one source I've found online here: 120studio.com/film-dev/pushing-tri-x.htm#dev2
I going to have to shoot some more film (and at night or at least, indoors at night) and experiment based on that before developing the concert roll.
Note that development times from 120studio.com, especially for images shot at IE 12800, approach stand development (that is, they take eons until I suppose the developer is mostly exhausted.)
At any rate, lots of variable here, different film, different developers/times/temps etc. My question regarding your development times, did you ever do a roll that sat in the soup for far longer than the ~12.5 mins?
It does give a very interesting look, one that is almost surreal. Good try.
Thanks!
7 stopa underexposed on digital camera. I can't even imagine garbage that would come out of that. Film rules!
I know, right?!
and me, silly bastard thinking that a 400-6400 was edgy
Hahaha
What is the point if you are not shooting in low light?!
Aperture and shutter speed is well taken care of with 1600 in daylight.
Come back with a night shoot, and while you’re at it try preflashing/latensification to raise shadow speed and lower contrast.
As it is now this is just borderline clickbait.
Hi Helge! As mentioned in the very beginning of the video.. there is no point other than to experiment for my own fun. If I wanted usable shots at night, I'll bring a tripod. Sorry you feel like this borders on click bait, that's not the intention. Chill out a little, maybe.
He does say at the beginning of the video "I like to experiment" twice... I don't push film myself but after watching this I think I may try it. Love the results too of the architecture.
@@dangerpowers123 Thanks! Most of the time I shoot Tmax at 800 or 1600. I just like the increased contrast it gives. 🙂
@@filmismorefun too right mate
filmismorefun the really fun experiment would have been to shoot at dusk or indoors at night.
A tripod won’t make people stay still.
Chilling is all fine and dandy, but what is fun or interesting for other people to watch is another matter.
Your results of pushing like that in broad daylight was rather predictable. The film would need to be able to see at the very least seven stops over mid gray to have normal tonality.
You can do whatever you want with your channel of course, but I assume you do this to get some kind of satisfaction to your viewers?
This just seems like wasted time, resources and most of all opportunity.