I'm just the opposite, TO. I can straight key but fumble with paddles. I used to set my straight key such that slight wrist movements activated the tone. I need to look into this key as I'm 'keyless' these days.
You were holding it down/steaty with your left hand. Wondering if the base has enough weight and the rubber feet enough grippiness, to be used without having to hold it down with a hand.
It is a lightweight key and I'm not a well practiced straight keyer... maybe in the hands of a proper straight keyer it would work great without holding it down.
Maybe it's just me, but why isn't anybody mentioning the fact that the key is not even centered on the board? It's at least an eighth of an inch or more, off center, to the left. The OCD in me would send that thing back to them in a heartbeat.
It would need an adapter to work with my Knight T-60 novice transmitter (from 1963): 1/4" key jack. Do you think the bearings will last? Plastic keys from my day still had adjustable needle bearings.
Wondering if this could be used with the IC-7300? The keyer connection on the IC-7300 is 6.35 mm (1/4 in). however this keyer is a 3.5mm connection. I have an adapter that I can get but I dont know if the connector has to be an originally connected 6.35 mm (1/4 in) jack. Is there anyone who uses a keyer with a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) adaptor connector?
@@temporarilyoffline might have to see if that train museum is still open in Colfax. I know they used to have an old straight key looked similar to that. It defiantly has that look.
@@K0BJJ I've been to that museum. It has an amazing setup of what the station looked like when telegraph was still a thing. I should go again. Would be great to do a CW activation from there.
@@temporarilyoffline You were down here at the train museum just north of Colfax? I haven't been there since I was a kid, Still there though I dont think its closed yet.
Plenty of room to crank up a solder iron and woodburn the alphabet, 0-9, and a few common combos and punctuation, in Morse Code. The clicking is insanity tho. By the time you crank all the struts and springs for silence, it is too touchy. It needs a sprung graphite pill contact, like in an old v8 distibutor to make good, peaceful contact. Or maybe the tip of a cigarette plug, but steel to steel contact will be a bit glitchy. These should come in a set, with some air-comm headset, and a 1/8 mono to 1/8 stereo adapter, cuz all are Iambic ready radios, and that plug shorts the channels out, might not hurt anything but kinda risky.
Try pulling the plug out just enough to get it to stop (or pushing it in further). I have a radio that does that to almost every key I have. If you have a meter, check the continuity to verify it compared to another model. These things aren't the complex, so it's probably something easy enough to fix. Might even be as simple as an adjustment. Looking forward to the solution
So it's cool. Don't get me wrong; I am not trying to be a d!ck and cast aspersions on your video or your sponsor or the product or anything like that. But... I have a really hard time rationalizing the price tag on this thing, when there are tons of really clean and nice vintage telegraph keys for $25-$35 shipped on the fleabay. I understand why they have to sell a new product for that price (anything new costing less would probably be crap), but I don't understand how this thing will sell.
You're absolutely right. I just spent a few minutes looking online, and there are some beautiful pieces for sale. Far more history, personality, and collectability. You would think that for over $50 they could at least get the key centered on the board (even if it is just a light switch cover). Not my style at all.
Almost all morse code keys are priced in the "work of art" range instead of the "cost of materials" range. It is a little odd. Add an extra 20% because "american made", but i'm right there with you on price.
It's just a simple MFJ 550 key (bought mine new at my club auction for $20USD) and an electrical wall plate - ridiculous price. Just bought a terrific Japanese clone of a J-38, and I like it better than my two vintage J-38s. Cost on Ebay? $40USD!!
![Cheap (fake) L&MAO morse code CW paddle review and calibration [EN]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yG4WwFc6pno/mqdefault.jpg)
![Cheap (fake) L&MAO morse code CW paddle review and calibration [EN]](/img/tr.png)
It’s a wooden light switch cover. Very clever!
I didn't even notice! Nice!
Hmmmm, that gives me an idea for a key mount ;-)
No... it's a "Deluxe Wood Base"
(and it's crooked)
Maybe one day I'll be down with the beeps.
cool none of the less.
One day...
@@temporarilyoffline If I learned code, I'd have to change my name. Also, pay no mind to the six straight keys in my shack...
I'm just the opposite, TO. I can straight key but fumble with paddles. I used to set my straight key such that slight wrist movements activated the tone. I need to look into this key as I'm 'keyless' these days.
Its a good starter for sure.
You can make a decent morse code key from a wooden peg. I always think it's best to make most of your equipment rather than buying it off the shelf.
Or some junk you find at a thrift store like I did here: th-cam.com/video/UblxxiVVpVw/w-d-xo.html
You were holding it down/steaty with your left hand. Wondering if the base has enough weight and the rubber feet enough grippiness, to be used without having to hold it down with a hand.
It is a lightweight key and I'm not a well practiced straight keyer... maybe in the hands of a proper straight keyer it would work great without holding it down.
Perfect for "Straight Key Night" ........"Straight Key Night is held every January 1 from 0000 UTC through 2359 UTC."
Might have to practice up
Maybe it's just me, but why isn't anybody mentioning the fact that the key is not even centered on the board?
It's at least an eighth of an inch or more, off center, to the left.
The OCD in me would send that thing back to them in a heartbeat.
I just saw that too! Carve in your call sign and its a go!
It would need an adapter to work with my Knight T-60 novice transmitter (from 1963): 1/4" key jack.
Do you think the bearings will last? Plastic keys from my day still had adjustable needle bearings.
Some keys are super well built and carry a similar price tag. The economy is interesting...
Wondering if this could be used with the IC-7300? The keyer connection on the IC-7300 is 6.35 mm (1/4 in). however this keyer is a 3.5mm connection. I have an adapter that I can get but I dont know if the connector has to be an originally connected 6.35 mm (1/4 in) jack. Is there anyone who uses a keyer with a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) adaptor connector?
I've used standard audio 1/4 to 1/8 adapters on every radio that has needed it. It's also easy enough to replace the whole cable.
Great use for a light switch cover. 73 de KD8FTH
Right!
The "manual" is basically a description of the key. Beyond "plug it into your radio", it has no use instructions.
I couldn't imagine it having much more
i feel like i need to work for the rail road with that straight key :P
It's pretty close, eh?
@@temporarilyoffline might have to see if that train museum is still open in Colfax. I know they used to have an old straight key looked similar to that. It defiantly has that look.
@@K0BJJ I've been to that museum. It has an amazing setup of what the station looked like when telegraph was still a thing. I should go again. Would be great to do a CW activation from there.
@@temporarilyoffline You were down here at the train museum just north of Colfax? I haven't been there since I was a kid, Still there though I dont think its closed yet.
Railroad keys were a whole lot more deluxe than that :-)
Plenty of room to crank up a solder iron and woodburn the alphabet, 0-9, and a few common combos and punctuation, in Morse Code. The clicking is insanity tho. By the time you crank all the struts and springs for silence, it is too touchy. It needs a sprung graphite pill contact, like in an old v8 distibutor to make good, peaceful contact. Or maybe the tip of a cigarette plug, but steel to steel contact will be a bit glitchy. These should come in a set, with some air-comm headset, and a 1/8 mono to 1/8 stereo adapter, cuz all are Iambic ready radios, and that plug shorts the channels out, might not hurt anything but kinda risky.
That would be a fun project, but my art talents don't lie in wood burning. I'm still searching.
@@temporarilyoffline Well, just print it out, and package tape laminate it to the base, or get out the Sharpie° no letters to Marshall Mathers. 😁✌
All it does is transmit as soon as i plug it in. Only stops transmitting when I unplug it. my paddle doesn't have this problem so it must be a defect.
Try pulling the plug out just enough to get it to stop (or pushing it in further). I have a radio that does that to almost every key I have. If you have a meter, check the continuity to verify it compared to another model. These things aren't the complex, so it's probably something easy enough to fix. Might even be as simple as an adjustment. Looking forward to the solution
Please give me the link of the website
It's in the description of the video.
It's in the description of the video.
Nice key I like j38 tnxs for the content
Yeah, it works well
Please give me the link
The link is in the description.
So it's cool. Don't get me wrong; I am not trying to be a d!ck and cast aspersions on your video or your sponsor or the product or anything like that. But...
I have a really hard time rationalizing the price tag on this thing, when there are tons of really clean and nice vintage telegraph keys for $25-$35 shipped on the fleabay. I understand why they have to sell a new product for that price (anything new costing less would probably be crap), but I don't understand how this thing will sell.
I kinda feel like the base needs to be longer too, so you can rest your wrist on it to keep the thing from scooting around when you really get going.
You're absolutely right. I just spent a few minutes looking online, and there are some beautiful pieces for sale. Far more history, personality, and collectability.
You would think that for over $50 they could at least get the key centered on the board (even if it is just a light switch cover).
Not my style at all.
Almost all morse code keys are priced in the "work of art" range instead of the "cost of materials" range. It is a little odd. Add an extra 20% because "american made", but i'm right there with you on price.
It's just a simple MFJ 550 key (bought mine new at my club auction for $20USD) and an electrical wall plate - ridiculous price.
Just bought a terrific Japanese clone of a J-38, and I like it better than my two vintage J-38s. Cost on Ebay? $40USD!!
Would not have one of keys as a gift , worst key on the market period ,the only place for this key is in the trash
I can see that