Thanks a lot Man! I like to make expensive tools by myself- it reduce price significantly and also I can design them exactly to my needs. Soon I'll make a few changes on this one:) Thanks a lot for watching!
Thanks a lot Jacek! Yes, it works great and I'm very happy about the results :). Safety should always be number one- especially if we talking about multiple dangers (e.g. electricity and high temperature)
Sometimes houses can be wired so that a neutral wire (more accurately, the wire intended to connect to neutral mains) can become live under certain fault conditions. I'm planning to have my oven using double pole switches. so that both sides of the circuit are connected/disconnected.
This is a great video! You make an excellent point about the difference between firebrick and insulating brick. Based on that, I think I'm going to design my furnace to have a removable lining in the bottom of firebrick. So that I can leave it in for even and slow heating, but remove the firebrick if I need the oven to heat or cool more quickly for other processes.
Thanks a lot Tom! Yes, removable firebricks on the bottom are a good idea. If you plan to heat treat more than one blade in one cycle definitely recommend to add firebricks! Thanks for watching and good luck with your oven (reach me if you need some help)!
Great video! I have a long way to go before I can build something like this on my own (access to tools/materials/skills) but this is very inspiring and informative.
Hey, thanks for the video, can you please help me a bit ? :) what type of bricks are the thinner ones ? I know those are not K23.. right .. ? Thank you!
Thanks a lot George! It's 1.4mm but if you don't plan to HT stainless steel knives 1,2mm will be fine! If you have more questions just ask :)! I'm here to help! David
Hi Man:)! I can't tell you exactly where you can find it, but I would try to find some place where you can find components for Fire Pizza oven, maybe "concrete" bbq grill. Try to find it this way. There is also ceramic wool you can use.
CAUTION: In the United States, neither side of a 230vac circuit is at neutral or ground potential. The proper approach is to put a relay on BOTH legs of the 230vac power source.
Thanks a lot Paul for pointing this! Correct me if I'm wrong: 230VAC is two phase 120VAC with 180* phase shift. The neutral potencial is only on 120VAC electrical outlet. So the electric circuit I've draw on the whiteboard is correct for 230VAC (UE) and 120VAC (USA). IT IS NOT CORRECT FOR 230VAC (USA)!
Even in EU, both side should be cut. Safety switch should not bear the load also, but use a contactor, bonus added you can add a true emergency stop (ie if you door fails to open). Contactor fails open, SSR fails short, that's also a big difference.
Thanks a lot :)! I bought it in my local store, but you can find it on amazon. I'm not sure if yt is sensitive on shop links so, please past this "Electrical Buddy Rotary Roller Lever Actuator Limit Switch LXK3 20S BAC 380V DC 220V 10A" to amazon page. you should find it. Remember that this limit switch must hold high amps- in my case 10A was is enough. An if you have any questions you can always e-mailed me (e mail is on "About" tab :). Cheers David.
@@DBCraftWorld thanks bro i found the switch on amazon got it yesterday mine wont look as nice as yours but should do the job im almost done with the oven then i can get to the electronics
Hi, are you using normal wires to connect the heating elements? Doesnt they overheat? Thanks, i hope you can answer me because i am stuck at this point where i need to connect the heating elements.
Hi:)! Yes, the heater is connected just by simple 2,5mm electric wire. The only thing you must remember, is that in this electric circuit flows high current, so the input wire must be thick as well (in fact it will be heating up much more than this in the heater).
Thank you for the fast reply, yes, i choose 2.5 mm square to do the connection and i want to use one bolt for each end of the heating element and connect the wires at the end of the bolts with nuts. The connection will be made outside of the oven. Thank you again!
@@rcalin9354 this is good solution, however, I would try to find ceramic connector (it's on the video) OR made some cover to make wires connection more safe.
Ok the door’s switch is set up to open the resistance circuit But what about using it to open the DC circuit between the PID controller and SSR relé? The relé will stay opened and there won’t be any current flowing in the resistance
Thanks for the comment Nick:)! Good question! There is a few things that must be concerned in this case: First is it good for PID controller and SSR to add some switch between them- is it wont disturbed proper work of PID controller? Second (and also more important) is it safe for YOU? Generally speaking SSR rele have no mechanical switch inside- so if it get damaged on a high voltage side there will be no physical break in the circuit. And that is why I wouldn't recommend this solution. BUT, if we talk only about idea, it should be like you wrote- there should be no current and more important voltage on the resistance (of course if the electric circuit is made right way).
@@DBCraftWorld what you said is a good point! I’ve made the circuit as I’ve described before but what you said is right I think I will leave the circuit like it is now but I’ll add a lever switch in the panel control So the panel control will be like: Lever switch for main power PID controller Lever switch for resistance power
Lso i have one more technical question, if i want to melt Steel in there and the heating wire is also made out of Steel, wouldnt it also melt in there? Or do you see any more heat resistant material options?
@@jonasgrunberger5382 The wire I've used to make heating coils is made from kanthal- it's not steel. Steel require at least 1450*C. Kanthal melts around 1300*C. If you want to melt steel with electricity you need induction furnace.
Właśnie buduje taki piec. Widzę że zastosowałeś włącznik krańcowy bezpośrednio na przewodzie zasilającym grzałkę, a powiedz co sądzisz o takim podłączeniu: włącznik krańcowy na zasilaniu SSR -> 230V do SSR -> SSR do grzałki -> po grzałce N do portu 2 w REXie. Ja mam akurat C100 ale wydaje mi się, że w obu przypadkach port 1 i 2 znaczą to samo .
Nie bardzo rozumiem . Najprościej mówiąc przekaźnik SSR jest układem zwierającym dwa przewody 230V za pomocą niskonapięciowego sygnału sterującego (drugi obwód). Wkładanie stycznika w obwód sterujący nie ma sensu z perspektywy bezpieczeństwa. SSR nie jest układem zapewniającym galwaniczną przerwę w obwodzie wysokiego napięcia i właśnie dlatego w moim piecu Stycznik/krańcówka jest PRZED GRZAŁKĄ.
Hi, I have three questions regarding the construction of the stove. 1. Did you connect all the walls of the furnace with glue or only individual bricks? 2. How many meters of wire did you use for the heater? 3. What was the diameter of the tube on which you wound the wire? Thx
Hi Sonic! Thanks for the comment and questions:)! - I didn't connect it. I've try to fit it to make the gap as small as possible to minimalize thermal bridge, but not disqualify the possibility of replacing the heater. - I've use 30 meters of wire - It was 10mm rod
Hi, DB. Great job, wonderful project and straight forward knowledge. Helath and safety first. Really amazing video like others on your channel. I'm interesting how long you must wait for 1000 degrees (Celsius)?
Hi Damian! Thanks a lot for kind words! Yes, safety should always be number one - unfortunetaly there's a lot of more viewed videos on yt, where some very important informations are missing (so if you have anybody who plan to make HT oven, please show this video to him, and if the have some questions he can easily send me an email- I always trying to help when somebody need it). The oven reach 800 in less than 30min but you must wait another 3h to get to the 1050. Its because the temperature gradient is not linear (in fact, the temperature rising characteristics are exponential) and also, the insulation efficiency goes down with temperature differences (between inside and outside temperature). So at the end, reaching 1100*C would take probably 5hours, but I didn't have to heat up it to this level (for now), so I can't tell it for sure Thanks for watching and I hope it's helpfull :) David
Yes, "DB" I will improve the insulation of my oven according to your information! another question I have, is with the khantal wire, here in Brazil we have the kanthal a1 D = 1.15 17awg what do you think? is current required at 26ohms? my oven reached 900 ° c approximately 6 hours on. thank you friend you are 10.brace
@@DBCraftWorld my resistance was 30ohms, I measured the external temperature of the oven, on the sides they were 90 ° c, rear without insulation 280 ° c ... this must be the cause of the inefficiency, I will correct this.
Correct me if I'm wrong: your kanthal wire is 1,15mm^2 in diameter and it's working on 230V current (and if its 26 ohms the power should be something around 2kW). Generally, in THIS case reaching 900*C in 6hours is definitely not connected with power (heat) losses, but what I suppose walls material. Your oven is made from "fire bricks" not "insulation bricks", am I right?
Sim DB é isolamento de tijolo, eles são brancos e muito leves de excelente qualidade, mas meu isolamento não é ok, eu acredito que este seja meu amigo. obrigado por ajudar.
The enclosure is so much work that it probably makes more sense to buy an old (analog) oven, preferably broken to drive the cost down, and adding electronic controls to it. Same result, less money, less work.
Yes, I agree, but you need to find cheap, old and broken oven first (I just couldn't find one). Besides that, there are problems like, interior dimensions, weight, external size. Overall it might be less work, but more problems. I decided to make one from scratches, cause it gave me a chance to design it exactly like I wanted.. In general, both ways gives different result but also require different amount of work. I'm not judge which is better- it depends on what you need, and how much time you have.
I can't wait for a new vogue in music comes around ; that finger snapping stuff is awful. Nice video otherwise and I really appreciated your discussion of the details EG insulation vs firebricks.
Thanks a lot for kind words :)! It's hard to find music that will appeal to everyone- I completely understand that you don't like it, and I appreciate that you point it;)! btw: let me know what kind of music you would like to hear in my videos?
Please get rid of the music for future videos. High volume background music is disability unfriendly for hearing impaired people. Thank you for considering this request.
Thank you sir for this great start
What is the name of the orange threads hanging on your left, sir?
You are very welcome Hamza! I don't know how exactly those orange boxes called. Try to find by typing "workshop wall organizer" in your browser :)
Fascinating! Watching your newer videos I just assumed you purchased your oven. amazing that you did this DIY.
Thanks a lot Man! I like to make expensive tools by myself- it reduce price significantly and also I can design them exactly to my needs. Soon I'll make a few changes on this one:) Thanks a lot for watching!
@@DBCraftWorld Well done! You have a very good way of solving problems!
The electrical work looks particularly impressive! Seems like a small mistake might get you killed, so happy to see all the safety solutions
Thanks a lot Jacek! Yes, it works great and I'm very happy about the results :).
Safety should always be number one- especially if we talking about multiple dangers (e.g. electricity and high temperature)
Sometimes houses can be wired so that a neutral wire (more accurately, the wire intended to connect to neutral mains) can become live under certain fault conditions. I'm planning to have my oven using double pole switches. so that both sides of the circuit are connected/disconnected.
This is a great video! You make an excellent point about the difference between firebrick and insulating brick. Based on that, I think I'm going to design my furnace to have a removable lining in the bottom of firebrick. So that I can leave it in for even and slow heating, but remove the firebrick if I need the oven to heat or cool more quickly for other processes.
Thanks a lot Tom! Yes, removable firebricks on the bottom are a good idea. If you plan to heat treat more than one blade in one cycle definitely recommend to add firebricks! Thanks for watching and good luck with your oven (reach me if you need some help)!
Great video! I have a long way to go before I can build something like this on my own (access to tools/materials/skills) but this is very inspiring and informative.
Thanks for the kind words, Christopher! It's not so hard to build - with proper tools, you can save some time, but they are not necessary.
Hey, thanks for the video, can you please help me a bit ? :) what type of bricks are the thinner ones ? I know those are not K23.. right .. ? Thank you!
Hey! Sure:) Those are just simple cellular concrete (commonly used in house building). its got quite deasent thermal conductivity (0,16W/mK)
Hi! Nice work! One question from me. The canthal a1 what diameter is? 1,2 mm?
Thanks a lot George! It's 1.4mm but if you don't plan to HT stainless steel knives 1,2mm will be fine! If you have more questions just ask :)! I'm here to help!
David
Im hobiest knifemaker. Usually work with stainless steel (440c for exable). Is it good enough to use diameter 1,2mm(20meters 1,28Ω/m)?
@@georgezaf71 even with 230v source it's not enough in case of 20m long wire. What power you want to achieve?
Hmmm lets say i want 2000watt.
@@georgezaf71 so you need 30m of 1.4mm wire.
Thanks for the video, I from Brasil and, I can't find the insulation bricks or fire bricks. Where can I buy this?
Hi Man:)! I can't tell you exactly where you can find it, but I would try to find some place where you can find components for Fire Pizza oven, maybe "concrete" bbq grill. Try to find it this way. There is also ceramic wool you can use.
@@DBCraftWorld Thanks, I will try!
@@joaopedroneufeld3027 I hope you will find it:). Good luck my Friend:)!
CAUTION: In the United States, neither side of a 230vac circuit is at neutral or ground potential. The proper approach is to put a relay on BOTH legs of the 230vac power source.
Thanks a lot Paul for pointing this! Correct me if I'm wrong: 230VAC is two phase 120VAC with 180* phase shift. The neutral potencial is only on 120VAC electrical outlet. So the electric circuit I've draw on the whiteboard is correct for 230VAC (UE) and 120VAC (USA). IT IS NOT CORRECT FOR 230VAC (USA)!
@@DBCraftWorld You have it correct. For 230 VAC in the US the safety door switch should switch both sides.
Even in EU, both side should be cut.
Safety switch should not bear the load also, but use a contactor, bonus added you can add a true emergency stop (ie if you door fails to open). Contactor fails open, SSR fails short, that's also a big difference.
awesome build im in the process of building mine wher did you get your door switch do you have a link for it?
Thanks a lot :)! I bought it in my local store, but you can find it on amazon. I'm not sure if yt is sensitive on shop links so, please past this "Electrical Buddy Rotary Roller Lever Actuator Limit Switch LXK3 20S BAC 380V DC 220V 10A" to amazon page. you should find it. Remember that this limit switch must hold high amps- in my case 10A was is enough. An if you have any questions you can always e-mailed me (e mail is on "About" tab :). Cheers David.
@@DBCraftWorld thanks bro i found the switch on amazon got it yesterday mine wont look as nice as yours but should do the job im almost done with the oven then i can get to the electronics
Hi, are you using normal wires to connect the heating elements? Doesnt they overheat? Thanks, i hope you can answer me because i am stuck at this point where i need to connect the heating elements.
Hi:)! Yes, the heater is connected just by simple 2,5mm electric wire. The only thing you must remember, is that in this electric circuit flows high current, so the input wire must be thick as well (in fact it will be heating up much more than this in the heater).
Thank you for the fast reply, yes, i choose 2.5 mm square to do the connection and i want to use one bolt for each end of the heating element and connect the wires at the end of the bolts with nuts. The connection will be made outside of the oven. Thank you again!
@@rcalin9354 this is good solution, however, I would try to find ceramic connector (it's on the video) OR made some cover to make wires connection more safe.
Nice and informative Video thank you for your work!
Ok the door’s switch is set up to open the resistance circuit
But what about using it to open the DC circuit between the PID controller and SSR relé?
The relé will stay opened and there won’t be any current flowing in the resistance
Thanks for the comment Nick:)! Good question! There is a few things that must be concerned in this case: First is it good for PID controller and SSR to add some switch between them- is it wont disturbed proper work of PID controller? Second (and also more important) is it safe for YOU? Generally speaking SSR rele have no mechanical switch inside- so if it get damaged on a high voltage side there will be no physical break in the circuit. And that is why I wouldn't recommend this solution. BUT, if we talk only about idea, it should be like you wrote- there should be no current and more important voltage on the resistance (of course if the electric circuit is made right way).
@@DBCraftWorld what you said is a good point!
I’ve made the circuit as I’ve described before but what you said is right
I think I will leave the circuit like it is now but I’ll add a lever switch in the panel control
So the panel control will be like:
Lever switch for main power
PID controller
Lever switch for resistance power
yes, dwo switches should work fine and more important, make your oven safe to use.
Are you from Italy?
No. I'm from Poland
Oh ok😅 im from germany i was trying to guess by the Sound of your accent
Lso i have one more technical question, if i want to melt Steel in there and the heating wire is also made out of Steel, wouldnt it also melt in there?
Or do you see any more heat resistant material options?
@@jonasgrunberger5382 The wire I've used to make heating coils is made from kanthal- it's not steel. Steel require at least 1450*C. Kanthal melts around 1300*C. If you want to melt steel with electricity you need induction furnace.
What is the black glue
this is high temperature silicon.
Właśnie buduje taki piec. Widzę że zastosowałeś włącznik krańcowy bezpośrednio na przewodzie zasilającym grzałkę, a powiedz co sądzisz o takim podłączeniu: włącznik krańcowy na zasilaniu SSR -> 230V do SSR -> SSR do grzałki -> po grzałce N do portu 2 w REXie. Ja mam akurat C100 ale wydaje mi się, że w obu przypadkach port 1 i 2 znaczą to samo .
Nie bardzo rozumiem . Najprościej mówiąc przekaźnik SSR jest układem zwierającym dwa przewody 230V za pomocą niskonapięciowego sygnału sterującego (drugi obwód). Wkładanie stycznika w obwód sterujący nie ma sensu z perspektywy bezpieczeństwa. SSR nie jest układem zapewniającym galwaniczną przerwę w obwodzie wysokiego napięcia i właśnie dlatego w moim piecu Stycznik/krańcówka jest PRZED GRZAŁKĄ.
@@DBCraftWorld pisałem na FB. Chciałem przesłać schemat
Hi, I have three questions regarding the construction of the stove.
1. Did you connect all the walls of the furnace with glue or only individual bricks?
2. How many meters of wire did you use for the heater?
3. What was the diameter of the tube on which you wound the wire?
Thx
Hi Sonic! Thanks for the comment and questions:)!
- I didn't connect it. I've try to fit it to make the gap as small as possible to minimalize thermal bridge, but not disqualify the possibility of replacing the heater.
- I've use 30 meters of wire
- It was 10mm rod
@@DBCraftWorld Great thank you :)
@@360ab
you're welcome!
Hi, DB. Great job, wonderful project and straight forward knowledge. Helath and safety first. Really amazing video like others on your channel. I'm interesting how long you must wait for 1000 degrees (Celsius)?
Hi Damian! Thanks a lot for kind words! Yes, safety should always be number one - unfortunetaly there's a lot of more viewed videos on yt, where some very important informations are missing (so if you have anybody who plan to make HT oven, please show this video to him, and if the have some questions he can easily send me an email- I always trying to help when somebody need it).
The oven reach 800 in less than 30min but you must wait another 3h to get to the 1050. Its because the temperature gradient is not linear (in fact, the temperature rising characteristics are exponential) and also, the insulation efficiency goes down with temperature differences (between inside and outside temperature). So at the end, reaching 1100*C would take probably 5hours, but I didn't have to heat up it to this level (for now), so I can't tell it for sure
Thanks for watching and I hope it's helpfull :)
David
Instablaster
Ótimo vídeo ❤
Thank you:)!
excelente trabalho.. 0 à 800°c em 20 minutos Uau! qual a receita? abraços aqui do Brasil
Thanks a lot:)! The secret is in efficiency (>90%). The walls are 50*C when the oven is on.
Yes, "DB" I will improve the insulation of my oven according to your information! another question I have, is with the khantal wire, here in Brazil we have the kanthal a1 D = 1.15 17awg what do you think? is current required at 26ohms? my oven reached 900 ° c approximately 6 hours on. thank you friend you are 10.brace
@@DBCraftWorld my resistance was 30ohms, I measured the external temperature of the oven, on the sides they were 90 ° c, rear without insulation 280 ° c ... this must be the cause of the inefficiency, I will correct this.
Correct me if I'm wrong: your kanthal wire is 1,15mm^2 in diameter and it's working on 230V current (and if its 26 ohms the power should be something around 2kW).
Generally, in THIS case reaching 900*C in 6hours is definitely not connected with power (heat) losses, but what I suppose walls material. Your oven is made from "fire bricks" not "insulation bricks", am I right?
Sim DB é isolamento de tijolo, eles são brancos e muito leves de excelente qualidade, mas meu isolamento não é ok, eu acredito que este seja meu amigo. obrigado por ajudar.
The enclosure is so much work that it probably makes more sense to buy an old (analog) oven, preferably broken to drive the cost down, and adding electronic controls to it. Same result, less money, less work.
Yes, I agree, but you need to find cheap, old and broken oven first (I just couldn't find one). Besides that, there are problems like, interior dimensions, weight, external size. Overall it might be less work, but more problems. I decided to make one from scratches, cause it gave me a chance to design it exactly like I wanted.. In general, both ways gives different result but also require different amount of work. I'm not judge which is better- it depends on what you need, and how much time you have.
well done
I can't wait for a new vogue in music comes around ; that finger snapping stuff is awful. Nice video otherwise and I really appreciated your discussion of the details EG insulation vs firebricks.
Thanks a lot for kind words :)! It's hard to find music that will appeal to everyone- I completely understand that you don't like it, and I appreciate that you point it;)!
btw: let me know what kind of music you would like to hear in my videos?
Great Video, thanks :)
Please get rid of the music for future videos. High volume background music is disability unfriendly for hearing impaired people. Thank you for considering this request.