I bought a 93 Camaro that nobody could fix via an extremely hard start. It was all crap wiring. What a nightmare. This video will help a lot of people. I needed this without changing the fans. My car actually ate a diehard batter in two starts to where the battery read zero volts. It was such a bizarre issue and the biggest lesson is most people don’t understand electrical issues…including dealers & repair shops
Glad it helped, and happy it's putting a Camaro back on the road. Right most shops are just parts changers till they get the one that fixes it. the AC went out in my 07 (175k) Tahoe last summer a shop said it needed a new compressor without even looking at it... so I fixed it but was a pain to figure out. Compressor was good clutch failed. new clutch but kept popping fuses. So I replaced the entire Compressor... kept popping fuses. it took me 2 weeks to figure out that the initial clutch failure cooked the circuit on the motherboard in the power distribution box. I bypassed it and that fixed it. that shop never would have figured it out and changed by big$ too.
Thank you. You've pointed out with great, and plain language what and where you improved the grounds. My vehicle needs the same. I appreciate that you took the time to make the video. Go Navy!
That's awesome! I'm going to do the same now. Since I'm doing a fan upgrade. It's very similar to the guage of my old work truck (ram 5500 with dual alternators) because I was running a 5000w invertor for work. I'd rather overkill and be safe with my personal obs truck. 👍
found your vid researching charging system issues .....you might like this little problem ......98 gmc z71 5.7 ...under hood stuff all original 230 k miles ..has a miss but doesn't miss at idle or just putting around up to about 20 mph. Once I get up on speed and try to hold a steady speed like 45, 55 65 mph with and without cruise control it misses , feels like it's surging , so I started with plugs, wires, dist cap , button, new coil , fuel filter, battery , power steering pump checked alternator checked out good ( it wasn't original , been changed before ).....still missing so changed out the mass air flow sensor, cleaned the egr, ( exhaust gas recirculation bs)....still missing so took it to Oriellys they plugged a scanner in and said knock sensor lean bank 1......so ordered a new knock sensor and installed it . Now , the check engine light has never been on but when I changed the knock sensor the dang check engine light came on . I also changed the flat ground strap runs from back of engine to the passenger frame ...still missing ....this sumbitch is driving me crazy .....I read a post somewhere that bad grounds can cause the alternator to overload overheat the fuel pump and cause the fuel pump to stall out ...also my gas and battery gauges have started flicking a bit back n forth so I'm gonna redo all my grounds and positives , talk about a headache ....anyway just found your channel sub'd up....good channel
At around 200K+ those distributors themselves start to get worn out. I had same symptoms. Son ordered new distributor dropped it in and issue resolved!
Yeah I was chasing my 98 1500 not charging all weekend it was tge wire before the link it was gone inside the sheathing. Now in pushing 14 6 volts.tvank for the block link in getting that so much with my plow wiring 😊
What would be the difference if I did not have the electric fan? In other words the clutch and fan setup. I also don't have the junction box on firewall but the positive battery cable that has a link to the alternator, starter, and fuse box on driver-side fender well. Could I still go with this exact setup you are doing?
its just a good overall setup even if you are not going with E-fans. and get rid of the old-style fusible links and replace them with modern circuit breakers or heavy duty fuses.
yup check all of your ground wires it may be missing a few after the engine was reinstalled. there is a big strap on the back near the frame under the AC evep
Dude ..ive been battling this problem for 3 years ..ive spend hundreds on parts ..come to find out it qas broken in battery cable end on positive side..grrr ..but finally its fixed..so i can pass the movie truck off to ny daughter
Hi navy dad! I’m a fellow owner of a c1500 a 93 side step to be exact! I’ve been having trouble with it lately, the trouble is on down shift to up shift the truck seems to shake and lag into gear. it is a automatic and we’ve changed fuel lines and filter. we don’t know if it might be the carb, transmission or, injectors. wondering if you can help! 😭
Well it could be a lot of things however “shake and lag into gear” is likely a transmission issue not likely a fuel system issue. But there could be a few other things. Check the motor and transmission mounts and the universal joints. If any are broken, they can cause issues like this. We just fixed my son’s 2010 GMC Sierra. It would clank going in to reverse. The front universal joint had a big crack, was just about to break off. If the trans fluid is black and smells like burnt popcorn the trans is done, the bands are burned up. If so Don’t change fluid if you do it might work for a day or a month but it will fail. The dirty fluid with all the band/clutch debris is what keeping it alive, once clean fluid is put back in that’s it. In fact a good reputable transmission shop will not change fluid in this condition unless the customer signs a waiver. However just to rule it out check your fuel pressure and pressure regulator. Fuel pressure on a TBI is around 10-12 pounds. The fuel pressure regulator is in the top back part of the throttle body and they are prone to leaking. You can buy a TBI rebuild kit for less then $100 and it will include fuel pressure regulator. The TBIs are very simple and easy to rebuild. Last thing to check if the trans fluid is good and clean is the transmission solenoids they can cause shifting issues in the 4L60’s 93 was the first year for the 4L60 in trucks it’s a renamed 700R4 but there are some differences. There is lots of info on the web and TH-cam on checking and replacing the solenoids. Good luck and take care ND
What size bolt is on the block for the negative ground? I’m missing that bolt and my negative is grounded to the ac compressor bracket. The cable is old and corroded so I’m replacing it back to OEM location. Just need the bolt size.
Hi I think its an M10-1.5 x 50mm O'reilly or Lowes should have them Lowes would be in metric boxes it does not need to be a grade 8 (10.9 for metric) a grade 5 (metric 8.8) is fine for this.
Why did you just put the thicker ground wire in the same place as the thin ground on the driver side? Instead of running it from the alternator Just asking.. good work though I’m definitely going with this setup
Directly grounding the alternator body increases charging stability and good grounding can reduce circuit overheating... and fire. its the go to setup when installing a big system too. (called the big 3) here is a little more about it www.kicker.com/app/misc/support/tech/tech_papers/docs/TheBig3Upgrade.pdf
90 c1500 alternator the wire that you changed in this video well mines broken at the rubber connector part would that be the reason my truck won’t start?
if the battery still has change enough or is jumped and the engine turns over normally a broken alternator wire wont keep it from starting. in fact a fully changed battery will start a car/truck without an alternator. if the rubber connector you are talking about is the one at the alternator itself that broke it could have cause a short elseward. if its the original wire check the battery side. you should see several other wires. if original there will be a fatter short thick part (black or tan) of the wire usually 6-10 inches from there is connects. that is a fusible link. if there was a short it could have cooked the link on one or more wires. the fusible links can sometimes fry inside and you cant tell so you may have to check continuity on all of them. the starter may still turn over but if the link going to the ECU is bad, its not getting spark or power to the injectors. also check the the passenger side firewall above the AC. take the cover off if its still there as there are several more fusible links there and your fuel pump relay is there as well. check all for continuity. also I think there is a fuse under the dash for the ECU, could have popped that too.
I’m wanting to upgrade my stock + wire from the alternator but it runs to the neutral junction box on the fire wall.should I keep that wire plugged in and just run a 4 awg wire with a fuse leading from alternator to battery positive.therefore having two wires coming from alternator + one to the battery and one to the junction box,thanks!
is your truck a 88-91? I think Chevy changed the wiring in 92 or 3 I would run the new line fused or with a fusible link from the alternator to the battery. Then a line from the battery to the junction box. That's how my 94 was factory wired. The small line currently going from your alternator to the junction box likely already has a fusible link on at the junction side. You should be able to move that line from the alternator to the battery you might want to use one of these for better routing www.amazon.com/Red-3-8-4-Stud-Power-Distribution-Block-BUSBAR-with-Cover-Made-in-The-USA/dp/B07CCGCWKD/ref=cm_wl_huc_item
@@NavyDad thank you for replying! I tried it out with out the original wire running to the junction box just altinator to battery and it was just fine I didn’t see any change in voltage or anything! Do you think I’ll hurt the system if I ungraded the main power wire going to junction box from battery?
I have a 96 and am having charging issues it stays at 12 or so at idle and driving also I have the 1 wire plug but how would I add a ground from the alternator if the only spot is where my positive cable is that runs to the battery?
the alternator ground wire bolts to the alternator mounting bracket then down to the frame. but you have to make sure the frame and body are very well grounded too. the straps on the back of the firewall are terrible, especially if they are oil soaked.
I might do this I’ve been having trouble on my 88 Silverado it won’t run if the alternator is plugged in it will only run on battery if I plug the alternator in while it’s running kills it instantly I’ve replaced everything accept the charging system
yes you have short somewhere it could even be the alternator. check all of the wires including the fusible links they are a pain. they fail and you really cant tell by looking at them
@@NavyDad I did end up replacing the alternator but still didn’t work so when get up some money I’ll replace that wire how you did it and see if works I hope been fighting this truck for 2 years almost
Did you splice all the heavy gauge wires to make all your connections because I’m not finding any terminal replacement wires with that heavy gauge of wire
not sure which wires you are referring too? are you taking about the trucks main accessory wires that are under the dust box on the firewall by the AC dryer? if so there is no need to replace those they are 12ga which is more then adequate for accessories
Yes, I didn't do it for a sound system, just better charging and better grounding is always a good idea, especially if you added electric fans with your swap
sounds like someone has been there before, thats not factory it should go directly to the battery. Then another wire from the battery to the firewall junction block. if they are missing the factory fusible links make sure to add it back or use a high-capacity fuse or circuit breaker
Hi navy dad, I have a 89 k1500 stepside with a 5.7 TBI and ive been having problems with the charging system, I put a new alternator bought a new battery and my truck still won't hold voltage, I have to jump start it everytime and it'll be at 12.40 then eventually start dropping to 9 then 7.46 and eventually dies and turns off, what could it be? I've checked the positive wire that goes from the battery terminal to the starter and fixed it also, idk what may be the problem, it won't maintain its voltage
Hi, yes this is pretty common on these trucks in fact Drew Martinez below had the same issue. First check all of your ground wires and make sure they are good. This sounds like the wire going from the Alternator to the battery is bad. The fusible link is close to the end of the cable on the battery side its usually a green or black thick part of the cable about 2 inches long. The links can blow and not look like its blown. When this happens, the alternator is not charging the battery as the cable is basically broken inside. Those things they always cause trouble which is why modern don’t have them anymore. To save time over building a custom cable setup go to O'Reilly they should be able to order an OE style cable to replace all 3 or 4 wires coming of the positive side of the battery. Also the junction block on the firewall above the AC dryer on the passenger side. It might be covered by long plastic cover same location as the fuel pump relay. There are 3 or more additional fusible links which could be blown as well.
Hi Navy Dad new to your channel I have a question I've got a 91c 1500 5.7 TBI good spark good fuel will run on gas bottle but injectors won't fire do you think it could be the ECM?
Hi, are you sure its getting fuel to the injectors? This sounds like it could be fuel pump, fuel pump relay or the fuel pressure regulator. First check fuel pump relay. Its on passenger firewall right above the AC dryer. Its behind a long plastic cover (if its still there) along with the power distribution bar. You can bypass the relay by putting a temporary switch on it (there are TH-cam vids on doing that) If it starts, it’s a bad relay. If it does not, the fuel pump may have gone south. Before replacing the pump (it’s a bit of a pain) check the pressure regulator too they are prone to leaking. The regulator is in the TBI they are easy to replace and cost less than $75.
Hi it's a "Mechanical Test Plug" www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Gripper-3-in-Plastic-Mechanical-Test-Plug-33402/100168770 I removed the big plastic "Muffler" from the air cleaner intake hose and used this to plug the hole. they come in many sizes. The center black part is rubber, when you tighten it down it pushes out to seal it.
@@Honey_butter_mmm yes it is which is why i removed it the louder the better. a lot of folks take off the entire air cleaner assembly and replace it with an open filter type or do the classic "Lip Flip" both bad ideas. It might feel quicker or have more response, but not for long. Once the engine compartment gets heat soaked any power gains by doing that are lost to heat. For the TBI trucks 88-94 the air cleaner assembly is a true cold air. Inside the left fender where the tube attached to is air routing scoop which air is forced into behind the battery in front of the grill, its really quite good for the time. For TBI 4.3, 5.0 and 5.7 trucks the best bang for the buck is to find an SS454 or 3500 454 with the larger air cleaner with the 8in snorkel. I found mine on eBay for about $80
I dont think I would remove it. It would always stink like gas with an open vent line from the tank. it vents pressure from the gas tank allowing fumes back into the manifold it does not rob any power from the engine. I think you can just move it over. there was a dual battery option for both the 5.7 and the 454. You should be able to make a bracket. scroll down on this page and see what this guy did on a 3500 ck5.com/forums/threads/left-side-dual-battery-tray-and-evap-canister-placement.327761/
Correct there is not a factory fuse but there is a fusible link. look at your OE wire and a few inches to where it connects to the battery you'll find a back thicker part of the wire. if the voltage regulator in the alternator freaks out and starts over charging the battery it will burn out the link in the wire to keep the battery from catching on fire. those links are a pain as sometimes they break or burn out and you cant tell from looking at the wire. a fusible link is probability better as it does now work the same as a fuse but a fuse if better then nothing. and finding a fusible link for a 4 or 6ga wire is not easy either. Here is one from Summit as example for $50 www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-810004?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAtK79BRAIEiwA4OskBvcsoMZab1Tg_4qBJ34rIdMxSZX4uJ8CZm7RsGuvMAt_0sBB45LdahoC1v4QAvD_BwE
I used existing bolts for both sides on the alternator its the back mounting bracket bolt and on the frame its the bolt that holds the brake line mounting bracket to the frame
Hi I'm not a shop and don't really work on other people's rigs. I work about 60hrs a week and barley have enough time to work on my own stuff. what is your truck doing?
@@drewmartinez3243 First check all of your ground wires and make sure they are good. This sounds like the wire going from the Alternator to the battery is bad. the fusible link is close to the end of the cable on the battery side its usually a green or black thick part of the cable about 2 inches long. The links can blow and not look like its blown. I hate those things they always cause trouble. to save time over building a custom cable setup got to O'Reilly (not autozone) they should be able to order an OE style cable to replace all 3 or 4 wires coming of the positive side of the battery.
Problem is I changed the whole positive wire that included this one I went to the junk yard and got another but then I was putting it on we sparked it in accident having the battery connected so maybe I just blew the new one I got cause it’s still not charging same engine 5.7 vortec with only 150k miles
@@adrianherrera9688 possibly, you can test line with a cheap multi meter from Harbor freight. check all your ground wires also check the Alternator too.
Do you happen to know how many ground are under the hood ? And where they are located ? I have a 93’ with a 5.7 am while it idles I’ll get 14.0 to 14.2 volts at the battery once I put on lights and ac it’s drop to about 13.8 to 13.9 but once I put it in drive and the idle drops then it goes down to 12.76!! I’m wondering if it’s a bad ground?!?
Hi First check the alternator, take it to O’Reilly's or other to have it tested (and check the battery too) the alternator has an internal voltage regulator that can get weak from heat (GMT800 trucks have this issue too). As for grounds the mail culprits can be lights and the body to chassis strap. The headlight is on the fender right next to the battery, they can get dirty and corroded. Then check the taillight ground it’s on the frame to the left of the spare tire. It can get rusty. When I bought my track it had no rear lights. The ground wire got pinched by the spare tire at some point and was nearly broken. Then check the body strap. It’s a steal mess wire from the firewall to the fame just under the AC accumulator. Mine was very frayed and about broken. There is also another large accessory ground AC accumulator. there is a plastic cover held on with plastic screws thingys (the fuel pump relay in under there too) that ground does not fail to often but dirt can get packed in the cover. There are many other grounds but those are the main ones that mostly have issues
Thanks for the reply ! I’ve actually changed the alternator twice it burned the first one cuz I didn’t notice that it was struggling to charge. And the battery is also new from Walmart. I cleaned the ground for the head lights an a ground on the driver side by the spare tire. Is that the ground you are talking about in the back of the truck ? I tried to clean the ground straps on the body but the bolt was tight and ended up breaking the bold off the fire wall. I’m thinking of running a new ground from motor to body like you did. Also does your fuse able link go from the battery to the alternator? Or from the battery to the starter ? Idk why I feel like the red wire from my alternator goes straight to the starter. Again thanks for the reply ! I can’t wait to get this figured out I just did a 4/6 drop and ran into this and have not been able to cruise lol
@NavyDad I getcha. I replaced both CTS Sensors. Just bought new IAC, TPS, EGR, and EGR solenoid, for my 93 k1500. I'm planning on doing some content about it on my channel. And thank you for the ideas of building my own battery cables!! Much appreciated sir!
sorry for the delay I didn't get a notification on this one. Yes check all the grounds if its a Chevy OBS check the headlight harness ground its right next to the battery and they can get corroded. and check the body to engine ground strap back right firewall under the AC dryer, they get rotted easy
Yup can't stand fusible links, they blow and sometimes you can't tell modern cars/trucks don't use them anymore heavy-duty fuses and 12v breakers are much better. Just make sure to use one about the same amp level.
@@NavyDad im wiring up my 97 gmc the exact same way as you did in your video i even bought the same fuse. Your video is not only saving me $ but its also better
I bought a 93 Camaro that nobody could fix via an extremely hard start. It was all crap wiring. What a nightmare. This video will help a lot of people. I needed this without changing the fans. My car actually ate a diehard batter in two starts to where the battery read zero volts. It was such a bizarre issue and the biggest lesson is most people don’t understand electrical issues…including dealers & repair shops
Glad it helped, and happy it's putting a Camaro back on the road. Right most shops are just parts changers till they get the one that fixes it. the AC went out in my 07 (175k) Tahoe last summer a shop said it needed a new compressor without even looking at it... so I fixed it but was a pain to figure out. Compressor was good clutch failed. new clutch but kept popping fuses. So I replaced the entire Compressor... kept popping fuses. it took me 2 weeks to figure out that the initial clutch failure cooked the circuit on the motherboard in the power distribution box. I bypassed it and that fixed it. that shop never would have figured it out and changed by big$ too.
Thank you. You've pointed out with great, and plain language what and where you improved the grounds. My vehicle needs the same. I appreciate that you took the time to make the video.
Go Navy!
Again navy dad I love binge watching your obs truck videos
Great video, just what I needed to see, grateful for the info and the links.
Thank you!
That's awesome! I'm going to do the same now. Since I'm doing a fan upgrade. It's very similar to the guage of my old work truck (ram 5500 with dual alternators) because I was running a 5000w invertor for work. I'd rather overkill and be safe with my personal obs truck. 👍
found your vid researching charging system issues .....you might like this little problem ......98 gmc z71 5.7 ...under hood stuff all original 230 k miles ..has a miss but doesn't miss at idle or just putting around up to about 20 mph. Once I get up on speed and try to hold a steady speed like 45, 55 65 mph with and without cruise control it misses , feels like it's surging , so I started with plugs, wires, dist cap , button, new coil , fuel filter, battery , power steering pump checked alternator checked out good ( it wasn't original , been changed before ).....still missing so changed out the mass air flow sensor, cleaned the egr, ( exhaust gas recirculation bs)....still missing so took it to Oriellys they plugged a scanner in and said knock sensor lean bank 1......so ordered a new knock sensor and installed it . Now , the check engine light has never been on but when I changed the knock sensor the dang check engine light came on . I also changed the flat ground strap runs from back of engine to the passenger frame ...still missing ....this sumbitch is driving me crazy .....I read a post somewhere that bad grounds can cause the alternator to overload overheat the fuel pump and cause the fuel pump to stall out ...also my gas and battery gauges have started flicking a bit back n forth so I'm gonna redo all my grounds and positives , talk about a headache ....anyway just found your channel sub'd up....good channel
At around 200K+ those distributors themselves start to get worn out. I had same symptoms. Son ordered new distributor dropped it in and issue resolved!
@@MrRoy-rb1je gonna try that next , thanks
Yeah I was chasing my 98 1500 not charging all weekend it was tge wire before the link it was gone inside the sheathing. Now in pushing 14 6 volts.tvank for the block link in getting that so much with my plow wiring 😊
Thank you sir,been having charging problems ,you’re much help
Glad it helped, I'll be back to work on it soon too
Just did this repair on my 1996 gmc single cab
I need my truck fixed! How much to do this? You’re in the DFW?
What would be the difference if I did not have the electric fan? In other words the clutch and fan setup. I also don't have the junction box on firewall but the positive battery cable that has a link to the alternator, starter, and fuse box on driver-side fender well. Could I still go with this exact setup you are doing?
its just a good overall setup even if you are not going with E-fans. and get rid of the old-style fusible links and replace them with modern circuit breakers or heavy duty fuses.
Going to try this! 94 Step Side, Rebuilt 350 New AC System always drained my battery.
yup check all of your ground wires it may be missing a few after the engine was reinstalled. there is a big strap on the back near the frame under the AC evep
Dude ..ive been battling this problem for 3 years ..ive spend hundreds on parts ..come to find out it qas broken in battery cable end on positive side..grrr ..but finally its fixed..so i can pass the movie truck off to ny daughter
very happy the vid helped, and way cool you are passing on the truck. 88-98 OBS's are in my option one of the best vehicles for teenagers for sure
Hi navy dad! I’m a fellow owner of a c1500 a 93 side step to be exact! I’ve been having trouble with it lately, the trouble is on down shift to up shift the truck seems to shake and lag into gear. it is a automatic and we’ve changed fuel lines and filter. we don’t know if it might be the carb, transmission or, injectors. wondering if you can help! 😭
Well it could be a lot of things however “shake and lag into gear” is likely a transmission issue not likely a fuel system issue. But there could be a few other things. Check the motor and transmission mounts and the universal joints. If any are broken, they can cause issues like this. We just fixed my son’s 2010 GMC Sierra. It would clank going in to reverse. The front universal joint had a big crack, was just about to break off. If the trans fluid is black and smells like burnt popcorn the trans is done, the bands are burned up. If so Don’t change fluid if you do it might work for a day or a month but it will fail. The dirty fluid with all the band/clutch debris is what keeping it alive, once clean fluid is put back in that’s it.
In fact a good reputable transmission shop will not change fluid in this condition unless the customer signs a waiver. However just to rule it out check your fuel pressure and pressure regulator. Fuel pressure on a TBI is around 10-12 pounds. The fuel pressure regulator is in the top back part of the throttle body and they are prone to leaking. You can buy a TBI rebuild kit for less then $100 and it will include fuel pressure regulator. The TBIs are very simple and easy to rebuild.
Last thing to check if the trans fluid is good and clean is the transmission solenoids they can cause shifting issues in the 4L60’s 93 was the first year for the 4L60 in trucks it’s a renamed 700R4 but there are some differences. There is lots of info on the web and TH-cam on checking and replacing the solenoids.
Good luck and take care ND
What size bolt is on the block for the negative ground? I’m missing that bolt and my negative is grounded to the ac compressor bracket. The cable is old and corroded so I’m replacing it back to OEM location. Just need the bolt size.
Hi I think its an M10-1.5 x 50mm O'reilly or Lowes should have them Lowes would be in metric boxes it does not need to be a grade 8 (10.9 for metric) a grade 5 (metric 8.8) is fine for this.
@@NavyDad thank you sir I’ll look for one
Why did you just put the thicker ground wire in the same place as the thin ground on the driver side? Instead of running it from the alternator Just asking.. good work though I’m definitely going with this setup
Directly grounding the alternator body increases charging stability and good grounding can reduce circuit overheating... and fire. its the go to setup when installing a big system too. (called the big 3) here is a little more about it www.kicker.com/app/misc/support/tech/tech_papers/docs/TheBig3Upgrade.pdf
@@NavyDad awesome thanks
90 c1500 alternator the wire that you changed in this video well mines broken at the rubber connector part would that be the reason my truck won’t start?
if the battery still has change enough or is jumped and the engine turns over normally a broken alternator wire wont keep it from starting. in fact a fully changed battery will start a car/truck without an alternator. if the rubber connector you are talking about is the one at the alternator itself that broke it could have cause a short elseward. if its the original wire check the battery side. you should see several other wires. if original there will be a fatter short thick part (black or tan) of the wire usually 6-10 inches from there is connects. that is a fusible link. if there was a short it could have cooked the link on one or more wires. the fusible links can sometimes fry inside and you cant tell so you may have to check continuity on all of them. the starter may still turn over but if the link going to the ECU is bad, its not getting spark or power to the injectors. also check the the passenger side firewall above the AC. take the cover off if its still there as there are several more fusible links there and your fuel pump relay is there as well. check all for continuity. also I think there is a fuse under the dash for the ECU, could have popped that too.
Alternators never start a vehicle. Only charge the battery.
I’m wanting to upgrade my stock + wire from the alternator but it runs to the neutral junction box on the fire wall.should I keep that wire plugged in and just run a 4 awg wire with a fuse leading from alternator to battery positive.therefore having two wires coming from alternator + one to the battery and one to the junction box,thanks!
is your truck a 88-91? I think Chevy changed the wiring in 92 or 3 I would run the new line fused or with a fusible link from the alternator to the battery. Then a line from the battery to the junction box. That's how my 94 was factory wired. The small line currently going from your alternator to the junction box likely already has a fusible link on at the junction side. You should be able to move that line from the alternator to the battery you might want to use one of these for better routing www.amazon.com/Red-3-8-4-Stud-Power-Distribution-Block-BUSBAR-with-Cover-Made-in-The-USA/dp/B07CCGCWKD/ref=cm_wl_huc_item
@@NavyDad thank you for replying! I tried it out with out the original wire running to the junction box just altinator to battery and it was just fine I didn’t see any change in voltage or anything! Do you think I’ll hurt the system if I ungraded the main power wire going to junction box from battery?
@@alejandroroberts4702 not it should not hurt it but make sure to either use a fusible link or an inline fuse or even a circuit barker just to be safe
I have a 96 and am having charging issues it stays at 12 or so at idle and driving also I have the 1 wire plug but how would I add a ground from the alternator if the only spot is where my positive cable is that runs to the battery?
the alternator ground wire bolts to the alternator mounting bracket then down to the frame. but you have to make sure the frame and body are very well grounded too. the straps on the back of the firewall are terrible, especially if they are oil soaked.
I might do this I’ve been having trouble on my 88 Silverado it won’t run if the alternator is plugged in it will only run on battery if I plug the alternator in while it’s running kills it instantly I’ve replaced everything accept the charging system
yes you have short somewhere it could even be the alternator. check all of the wires including the fusible links they are a pain. they fail and you really cant tell by looking at them
@@NavyDad I did end up replacing the alternator but still didn’t work so when get up some money I’ll replace that wire how you did it and see if works I hope been fighting this truck for 2 years almost
Did you splice all the heavy gauge wires to make all your connections because I’m not finding any terminal replacement wires with that heavy gauge of wire
not sure which wires you are referring too? are you taking about the trucks main accessory wires that are under the dust box on the firewall by the AC dryer? if so there is no need to replace those they are 12ga which is more then adequate for accessories
Me 5 seconds in: I fucking like it!
Thanks excellent tip.
Is this a general recommendation or just for sound systems? I just did a 5.3 LS swap in my 94 4x4. I have no sound system.
Yes, I didn't do it for a sound system, just better charging and better grounding is always a good idea, especially if you added electric fans with your swap
@@NavyDad thanks I’m definitely installing electrical fans
The Red wire on the back of my alternator goes to the firewall. Do I just tie it into other power cable and run it to the battery??
sounds like someone has been there before, thats not factory it should go directly to the battery. Then another wire from the battery to the firewall junction block. if they are missing the factory fusible links make sure to add it back or use a high-capacity fuse or circuit breaker
Hi navy dad, I have a 89 k1500 stepside with a 5.7 TBI and ive been having problems with the charging system, I put a new alternator bought a new battery and my truck still won't hold voltage, I have to jump start it everytime and it'll be at 12.40 then eventually start dropping to 9 then 7.46 and eventually dies and turns off, what could it be? I've checked the positive wire that goes from the battery terminal to the starter and fixed it also, idk what may be the problem, it won't maintain its voltage
Hi, yes this is pretty common on these trucks in fact Drew Martinez below had the same issue.
First check all of your ground wires and make sure they are good. This sounds like the wire going from the Alternator to the battery is bad. The fusible link is close to the end of the cable on the battery side its usually a green or black thick part of the cable about 2 inches long. The links can blow and not look like its blown. When this happens, the alternator is not charging the battery as the cable is basically broken inside. Those things they always cause trouble which is why modern don’t have them anymore. To save time over building a custom cable setup go to O'Reilly they should be able to order an OE style cable to replace all 3 or 4 wires coming of the positive side of the battery.
Also the junction block on the firewall above the AC dryer on the passenger side. It might be covered by long plastic cover same location as the fuel pump relay. There are 3 or more additional fusible links which could be blown as well.
hey sr where did you bought the wire
Hi Navy Dad new to your channel I have a question I've got a 91c 1500 5.7 TBI good spark good fuel will run on gas bottle but injectors won't fire do you think it could be the ECM?
Hi, are you sure its getting fuel to the injectors? This sounds like it could be fuel pump, fuel pump relay or the fuel pressure regulator. First check fuel pump relay. Its on passenger firewall right above the AC dryer. Its behind a long plastic cover (if its still there) along with the power distribution bar. You can bypass the relay by putting a temporary switch on it (there are TH-cam vids on doing that) If it starts, it’s a bad relay. If it does not, the fuel pump may have gone south. Before replacing the pump (it’s a bit of a pain) check the pressure regulator too they are prone to leaking. The regulator is in the TBI they are easy to replace and cost less than $75.
Navy dad, what is that red thing under your upper air take housing
Hi it's a "Mechanical Test Plug" www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Gripper-3-in-Plastic-Mechanical-Test-Plug-33402/100168770 I removed the big plastic "Muffler" from the air cleaner intake hose and used this to plug the hole. they come in many sizes. The center black part is rubber, when you tighten it down it pushes out to seal it.
@@NavyDad Thank you for the quick and detailed response shipmate! Is that plastic baffle purely for noise reduction?
@@Honey_butter_mmm yes it is which is why i removed it the louder the better. a lot of folks take off the entire air cleaner assembly and replace it with an open filter type or do the classic "Lip Flip" both bad ideas. It might feel quicker or have more response, but not for long. Once the engine compartment gets heat soaked any power gains by doing that are lost to heat. For the TBI trucks 88-94 the air cleaner assembly is a true cold air. Inside the left fender where the tube attached to is air routing scoop which air is forced into behind the battery in front of the grill, its really quite good for the time. For TBI 4.3, 5.0 and 5.7 trucks the best bang for the buck is to find an SS454 or 3500 454 with the larger air cleaner with the 8in snorkel. I found mine on eBay for about $80
How would you go about removing the charcoal canister to run dual battery’s?
I dont think I would remove it. It would always stink like gas with an open vent line from the tank. it vents pressure from the gas tank allowing fumes back into the manifold it does not rob any power from the engine. I think you can just move it over. there was a dual battery option for both the 5.7 and the 454. You should be able to make a bracket. scroll down on this page and see what this guy did on a 3500 ck5.com/forums/threads/left-side-dual-battery-tray-and-evap-canister-placement.327761/
@@NavyDad appreciate the help! Love the content 👍
Why a fuse on the alternator wire.
There is no fuse there by factory
Correct there is not a factory fuse but there is a fusible link. look at your OE wire and a few inches to where it connects to the battery you'll find a back thicker part of the wire. if the voltage regulator in the alternator freaks out and starts over charging the battery it will burn out the link in the wire to keep the battery from catching on fire. those links are a pain as sometimes they break or burn out and you cant tell from looking at the wire. a fusible link is probability better as it does now work the same as a fuse but a fuse if better then nothing. and finding a fusible link for a 4 or 6ga wire is not easy either. Here is one from Summit as example for $50 www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-810004?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAtK79BRAIEiwA4OskBvcsoMZab1Tg_4qBJ34rIdMxSZX4uJ8CZm7RsGuvMAt_0sBB45LdahoC1v4QAvD_BwE
I like this guy already like comment ir just subscribe
why don't you try a mechman alternator?
$450+ for an alternator on a $1000 truck, I'll take the $50 fix :)
Whats the size of the bolt you used to connect the ground to the alternator?
I used existing bolts for both sides on the alternator its the back mounting bracket bolt and on the frame its the bolt that holds the brake line mounting bracket to the frame
Im having the same problem on my 98 silverado. Im in Dallas and I dont trust the mechanics in my area. Can I take it to you please
Hi I'm not a shop and don't really work on other people's rigs. I work about 60hrs a week and barley have enough time to work on my own stuff. what is your truck doing?
@@NavyDad Thank you for replying. I understand. I have a 98 chevy 1500. 2 new batteries and 2 new alternators. Still will not hold charge.
@@drewmartinez3243 First check all of your ground wires and make sure they are good. This sounds like the wire going from the Alternator to the battery is bad. the fusible link is close to the end of the cable on the battery side its usually a green or black thick part of the cable about 2 inches long. The links can blow and not look like its blown. I hate those things they always cause trouble. to save time over building a custom cable setup got to O'Reilly (not autozone) they should be able to order an OE style cable to replace all 3 or 4 wires coming of the positive side of the battery.
Holy shit I think this could be my problem
Cool I hope fixes it!
Problem is I changed the whole positive wire that included this one I went to the junk yard and got another but then I was putting it on we sparked it in accident having the battery connected so maybe I just blew the new one I got cause it’s still not charging same engine 5.7 vortec with only 150k miles
@@adrianherrera9688 possibly, you can test line with a cheap multi meter from Harbor freight. check all your ground wires also check the Alternator too.
@@NavyDad it was my dash !!!!! My dash wasn’t fully clicked in somehow that didn’t let the altinator charge
Do you happen to know how many ground are under the hood ? And where they are located ?
I have a 93’ with a 5.7 am while it idles I’ll get 14.0 to 14.2 volts at the battery once I put on lights and ac it’s drop to about 13.8 to 13.9 but once I put it in drive and the idle drops then it goes down to 12.76!! I’m wondering if it’s a bad ground?!?
Hi First check the alternator, take it to O’Reilly's or other to have it tested (and check the battery too) the alternator has an internal voltage regulator that can get weak from heat (GMT800 trucks have this issue too). As for grounds the mail culprits can be lights and the body to chassis strap. The headlight is on the fender right next to the battery, they can get dirty and corroded. Then check the taillight ground it’s on the frame to the left of the spare tire. It can get rusty. When I bought my track it had no rear lights. The ground wire got pinched by the spare tire at some point and was nearly broken. Then check the body strap. It’s a steal mess wire from the firewall to the fame just under the AC accumulator. Mine was very frayed and about broken. There is also another large accessory ground AC accumulator. there is a plastic cover held on with plastic screws thingys (the fuel pump relay in under there too) that ground does not fail to often but dirt can get packed in the cover. There are many other grounds but those are the main ones that mostly have issues
Thanks for the reply ! I’ve actually changed the alternator twice it burned the first one cuz I didn’t notice that it was struggling to charge. And the battery is also new from Walmart.
I cleaned the ground for the head lights an a ground on the driver side by the spare tire. Is that the ground you are talking about in the back of the truck ? I tried to clean the ground straps on the body but the bolt was tight and ended up breaking the bold off the fire wall. I’m thinking of running a new ground from motor to body like you did.
Also does your fuse able link go from the battery to the alternator? Or from the battery to the starter ? Idk why I feel like the red wire from my alternator goes straight to the starter. Again thanks for the reply ! I can’t wait to get this figured out I just did a 4/6 drop and ran into this and have not been able to cruise lol
Where did you get your headlights from?
the info is in my LED upgrade vid th-cam.com/video/WoA18Vucy4k/w-d-xo.html the links are in the google doc in the description of the vid
5:16 Why is the CTS Unplugged?
I had been trouble shooting a different hard start issue, ended up being the "New" iac was bad.
@NavyDad I getcha. I replaced both CTS Sensors. Just bought new IAC, TPS, EGR, and EGR solenoid, for my 93 k1500.
I'm planning on doing some content about it on my channel.
And thank you for the ideas of building my own battery cables!! Much appreciated sir!
@@wikidcustomsgarage Cool and just subscripted too :) as soon as the Chevelle is back on the road I'll be back on O'l Blue
@NavyDad Apreciate it sir! Can't wait for more content!
TOP KNOTCH !
What year are the efans you have
is for a 2013-15 Malibu and 2014-18 Impala www.amazon.com/Garage-Pro-Assembly-CHEVROLET-2013-2016-2014-2018/dp/B07HCYLNRT
My alternator whines it’s brand new have replaced the new twice do u think no ground could cause a whine or bad connections
sorry for the delay I didn't get a notification on this one. Yes check all the grounds if its a Chevy OBS check the headlight harness ground its right next to the battery and they can get corroded. and check the body to engine ground strap back right firewall under the AC dryer, they get rotted easy
I thing that you problem could be a losen serpentine belt
I need help
What’s up?
They want 78 dollars for a fusable link wire i think thats a rip off thats why i want to make my own
Yup can't stand fusible links, they blow and sometimes you can't tell modern cars/trucks don't use them anymore heavy-duty fuses and 12v breakers are much better. Just make sure to use one about the same amp level.
@@NavyDad im wiring up my 97 gmc the exact same way as you did in your video i even bought the same fuse. Your video is not only saving me $ but its also better
F-ing wire