Filling Gaps & Seams on Miniatures | Tutorial
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ย. 2019
- An introduction to the basics of seam & gap filling miniatures, two techniques a demonstrated. One based on using Green Stuff for filling, and another based on using plastic cement/glue.
#Miniatures #Basics #HowTo
Follow up video with even more techniques: • More Gap Fill Techniqu...
I have removed the Amazon links that used to be here, since I left their affiliate program over a dispute related to payment.
Contact:
contact at sleepywhatsit dot com
Instagram: / sleepywhatsit
Tumblr: www.tumblr.com/sleepywhatsit
Ko-Fi: ko-fi.com/sleepywhatsit
Twitch: / sleepywhatsit
Credits:
"Baba Yaga" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b... - เกม
Vallejo Plastic Putty is excellent for GW model seams I find. It has a really tiny tube for accurate application.
I discovered their Plastic Putty after making this video and have been using pretty regularly. I am pretty sure I mentioned it in my follow up to this video.
You know what, I DID find it informative. Thank you.
Glad to hear it, I made a follow up video a while after that might be interesting to you th-cam.com/video/wqkSebgPWHQ/w-d-xo.html
Nice work!
Thanks!
Milliput is a very good filler. A lot easier to work with.
Milliput would be a good alternative if your prefer working with it. Really any type of two part resin putty should work.
I have tried using Milliput before and I am not a huge fan of it, it feels too sensitive to water/humidity to me and gets sloppy for me. That being said I have seen people do wonderful work with it, so I am sure my issues are more of a user error thing then a problem with the product.
Still never understood why GW put the seem right through the middle of the shoulder pad on those Stormcasts, when they do separate pieces all the time....
I originally thought it was related to them being push fit models, but the push fit Space Marines don't have the same issues. I honestly think it was just a poor design decision when they were making the model/sprue. Rushed process or something
All corporations suck
yes, so freaking annoying... obviously it's not too still their liquid green stuff ™.. gw would never do such a thing
Thank you!
I build armor and often have an issue with seams from minor to pathetic and use a method by melting down styrene scrap pieces and making a putty. Works good for me. I use the Tamiya Primer Type G as well for minor seams. I build a lot of Russian armor which often have fuel drums at the rear of the tank. Tamiya Primer Type G works well for seams of that type.
I did a follow up video to this one where I showed how to melt down sprue in Tamiya cement to make an adhesive filler that sounds pretty similar to what you are describing.
@@SleepyWhatsItI didn't see the follow up video but cool! I find it often works better than the various putties on the market.
A lil tip. If possible use that glue on the gaps before you prime or paint it. I touched up some spots I forgot and got paint on my Tamiya glue brush !. I rushed to clean it so the bristles are not stuck together and painted.
You can put some extra thin cement in a jar with some runners, which you probably know. But with that you can fill your larger seams with that as its becomes more of a putty.
Yup, I learnt that after I made this video, I actually did an updated version of this video that covers using a plastic slurry like you discussed and using UV resin, th-cam.com/video/wqkSebgPWHQ/w-d-xo.html
Hi, what metal tool did you use with the green stuff? DO you havve a list of recommended tools to use when modelling?
The specific tool is from a wax carving kit that I bought some time ago from the surplus store near my house. The tools from that kit are also pretty good for applying things like texture paste. Looking online, I suprisingly actually managed to find the specific kit that I have, amzn.to/30FPqUn. In addition to those specific tools, I often use clay shapers like these amzn.to/2WSn0oV and a hobby knife. I am not a particularly skilled scultpor, I mostly patch and gap fill, so I am not sure what the best tools for proper sculpting are.
With regards to a larger list of tools for modelling, I am currently in the process of working on a video that will cover what I think should be in base miniature painting kit, since I made one for my brother's birthday :-) Though it will not be the next video that comes out, since I have another one that I have been working on that I am planning on finishing for this weekend.
@@SleepyWhatsIt Thank you for the info and links!
I made some stuff with plastic glue and sprues which is great for this sort of thing. ofc it won't work on anything but plastic kits.
Thanks.
Glad you found it useful
Got a link for the sandpaper stick?
www.sunwardhobbies.ca/alpha-abrasives-mini-hobby-and-craft-sanding-sticks-assorted-0101/
I also dislike green stuff liquid, i roll a small piece of 2 part green stuff putty. I tried miliput, but its too sticky to start with, but after a bit loses some of the stickyness.
As a note, you can also use thin superglue to fill a seam. Just add some into a seam, then add more after to fill up the seam or gap. It can be sanded down or scrape smooth after
How did you assemble those miniatures? Did you just push them together using push-fit bolts? Or did you glue them together?
I got a few of those (cursed) easy-to-build minis laying around and for this exact reason I haven't assembled them yet, but I was thinking - if I were to simply cut the assembly pegs and just use plastic glue (either the regular or extra thin, but I think regular would be better here) along the edge of the joint, wouldn't that make the gap smaller?
I'm reluctant to buy and use plastic glue just for that (been using CA so far), but it leaves nasty marks if you use too much of it, so plastic glue seems to be the way to go here...
tl;dr:
I trim the pegs to make them fit better and use glue to lock the model together. I used to use CA glue exclusively, but have moved to using plastic cement over the past year. If assembled carefully using plastic cement you can often avoid the need to do gap filling later.
I had a much longer response originally, but YT ate my comment when I posted it, so I will attempt to summarize it.
My process for assembling push fit models it to sand or cut the posts a little and then use my hobby knife or a drill to widen the holes. I am aiming for being able to assemble/disassemble the model but still have a bit of a snug fit. I am using the pegs as guides instead of a lock fit. I will then put glue(CA previously, cement more recently) around where the top of the hole will make contact around the base of the peg and along any other surfaces like edges that will make contact when pressed together. If done well with cement then I don't have to gap fill. The big thing is to not get liquid into the holes, because that will often prevent the peg from fulling inserting, since there is no where for the glue to escape.
Sometimes if a peg is being an issue, like there are 3 or four for them for the pieces that are joining, I will just remove it. You could take that to the logical conclusion and just remove all of the pegs. That will leave you without a guide, so aligning the edges maybe harder and you will probably need to hold the model while waiting for it to dry.
If you are going to be doing a lot of GW or other plastic cement compatible assembly, I would recommend getting Tamiya Extra-Thin Cement since it is very easy to control how much you get where and being able to weld the pieces together speeds up assembly so much. I used to only use CA glue, but I have found that I have been doing a lot more cement compatible models recently, so have transitioned to using cement when possible.
@@SleepyWhatsIt I see, thanks for the answer. Personally I feel like if I'm already using glue to assemble those anyway might just get rid of the pegs all together, as far as I can tell most of those models are divided in a way they can only fit together in one position anyway, so why not just glue along the joint? Gotta figure out how to hold them together as they dry though, maybe get some tiny clamps or something :^)
I'd get me plastic glue for testing but right now I don't really have space for an exhaust box, and I'm not inhaling those fumes either, so that gotta wait a few more months when I can finally move to a bigger apartment. In meantime I'll see if I can do something similar using CA glue... I'll prolly end up with tons of nasty marks where the CA overflows and a ruined miniature or two, but I got this box of sequitors for testing like this anyway...
I like the idea of drilling the peg hole for test assembly, didn't think of that. What I did instead was scrape off some of the peg in two or three places to make it kinda triangle-shaped and shorten it a bit as they are almost always too long.
@@benjimlem1284 Depending on the specific model, maybe try elastic bands for holding pieces together?
@@SleepyWhatsIt hm, I guess that could work, but I imagine putting them on and taking them off could be a drag... my current idea would be to use laundry clips - they're cheap, and easy to get. And in case the jaws are too narrow for a bigger model I thought about getting a pack of resin mixing spatulas (they're like really big ice cream sticks) and just gluing them on top of one or two clips. And I could add some foam too, to make sure the pressure is nicely and evenly distributed.
Maybe I'm overthinking this but I've always liked to overengineer things :P
Assemble the minis with plastic cement and you eliminate the majority of the gap problem. Also plastic modelers have been using a technique for years that involves using a quantity of liquid cement to melt leftover sprue to form gap filling mixture. Don't assume that just because it states the mini is press fit that it shouldn't be glued. Also superglue is a horrible way to assemble plastic minis.
Nobody cares
@@RebZoomer i agree
Hi, did you try to use superglue + baking soda and then sanding ? I find it to work pretty well too.
I hadn't considered that. I normally stay away from using baking soda on my glue because I don't like how it makes the joint look, but if I am going to be sanding anyway.
Thanks for the tip, I will have to give that a try sometime.
This method works well for filling gaps, I've used it a few times now. It really does need a good sanding afterwards. As with most things, the more careful you are while applying this, the less clean up you will have to do once everything dries.
one of my raptoryx leg have one gap kind make me made
👍👍
Thanks
You should do a clear eyes commercial.
Dear god GW can learn a thing or two from Bandai, and how they do thier plastic injection molding.
Hell if Bandai ever started a mini section of thier model kit line, depending on how the game is played... they would smoke GW.
Milliput works really well and is easier to work with than green stuff
I know some people prefer Milliput, but I personally have found it difficult to work with, because it is more sensitive to water. I will admit I haven't tried all the varieties since it isn't readily available at most of the game stores near me, so I might just be using the wrong type. If it works for you that is awesome, I have seen some people do some cool basing with it in addition to gap filling.
@@SleepyWhatsIt good thing is all you need to do is dampen a rubber sculpting tool a bit to press it into gaps and seams. Green stuff sometimes requires quite a bit of water to not stick. Both work well though, I used green stuff for years before I tried Milliput
@@Kharn121 Next time I am somewhere that has Milliput I will have to pick some up and give it another try.
You can run mineral spirits into milliput to create a paste and just brush it in. Then use another brush with the spirits for cleanup on areas might have accidentally hit. Works great
@@zzconmanzz1 Thanks, that is very good to know.
"we created this tactical paint so you can fix our crappy quality models by paying us even more money"
-gw
Man, what a headache.
Quick setting is better
Likely true :-) Once I finish the bottle I am working thought I am probably going to try some of quick setting.
I dont force the putty into joints as it doesnt work qs well as putting it along the seam and then fitting the halves together to where it squishes out.
That is an interesting approach, I can see how that would avoid the issue entirely.
I suspect I am foolishly optimistic and plan on not having to do gap filling, and then curse past me when I have to do it.