How to Install a New Chimney Liner Yourself
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2013
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Video Highlights
0:18 Kit includes
0:37 First step before starting install
1:20 Cutting to length
3:04 Insulating the Chimney Liner
4:29 How to lower into the chimney
5:40 Next Step will be Attaching to the appliance
6:00 Attaching the appliance adapter
7:16 Installing the insert
7:44 Installing the Top Plate
8:51 Cutting the access liner off
10:23 Attaching the Cap
11:44 Silicone the screws
Robert explains how to install Chimney Liner.
Installing a stainless steel chimney liner is an easy and economical way to repair a deteriorated, unsafe, or inefficient chimney flue. You will be able to install a chimney liner after reading this and watching the video. You can do the job with common household tools. A chimney liner should be installed to reduce the chance of a carbon monoxide leak, chimney fire, and creosote buildup. Chimney liners also improve the energy efficiency of the appliance and makes fireplace maintenance easier.
First, determine the appropriate size chimney liner for your specific setup. The chimney liner diameter size you will need will be the same size of the exhaust outlet on the appliance. The chimney liner length you will need will equal the height of the chimney. we recommend ordering slightly over that amount to give room for error.
Only a few tools are needed for a successful chimney liner installation. You'll need a tin snips (or a sawzall or hacksaw), drill and bit, flat head screw driver, caulk gun, work gloves, and safety glasses.
Every basic chimney liner kit is going to come with four main components: the stainless steel chimney liner, connector (either a Tee connector or a Stove Top connector), top plate, and rain cap. This video shows a basic stove top installation.The top plate is going to be the main variable for a chimney liner kit.
Start by using your knife and remove the plastic wrap that the liner is coiled in. Once you have the liner out, start to straighten the liner. Make sure to do this on the grass or a soft surface so you don't puncture it. Straighten the liner out as best as you can. It does not need to be perfect as you will have to do some manipulation to get it down the chimney.
After installing the insulation you will need to get the liner to the top of the chimney. Proceed to lower the liner down the chimney until you reach the damper or smoke shelf. You will need to do some adjustments when you get back inside to get it through this.
Twisting the flexible liner will help you install the liner if you are getting caught or hung up on the chimney walls.
Now you will need to head into the house to finish connecting the appliance.
Once the stove connection has been installed correctly, it is time to connect the stove pipe to the stove. Most stove pipe comes with three screws per connection point. Use your drill and drive the screws into the horizontal part of the tee and through the exhaust collar of the stove. using furnace cement to secure and stop any leaks.
Once the chimney liner is all the way down the flue to the point of the appliance, the next step is to connect the top plate to the top of the chimney. The main function for a top plate is to seal the existing flue from rain, wind and critters from entering the chimney. Start by using your caulk gun and a tube of weather resistant high-temp silicone to run a bead of silicone along the top edge of the clay flue.
Next, thread the chimney liner through the round collar of the top plate so that the top plate is sitting on the top edge of the clay flue.
When you have successfully installed the top plate, the next step is to cut the excess liner flush with the top of the collar of the top plate. Your sawzall or hacksaw will work just fine.
The next step is to secure the rain cap to the top plate. The Cap will just slide over and then tighten the clamp.
Congratulations, you have successfully installed a stainless steel, flexible chimney liner! - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
This fire pit is one of a few covered pits that is on the list th-cam.com/users/postUgkxAU9pOCSV9Y5JprooHvfxTpOrt4hx8uRM of approved products for Disney Fort Wilderness. The product served its purpose well and provided excellent fires throughout the evening. We were able to open the door and do s'mores, but I had to be careful because the handle was a bit hot on occasions. Additionally, I wish they had replaced some of the standard nuts with lock nuts in some places. We lost the door handle after just a couple of days of usage. Not a deal breaker, just a recommendation. I still give it 5 stars.
Dude installed that liner like a champ. Stop being haters. People are just mad cause this guy is showing us how to do this job ourselves instead of paying some chimney guy that wants to charge us $1000-3000 dollars to install something that's very do able. Of course he missed some things but he has demonstrated the main concept for the most part. Strap your selves down for safety and take some of the comments on here that others have said and do this yourselves people.
GenerationOfBmx the guy doesn’t know the most basic code. The 2ft/10ft - 3ft rule. The brick chimney is 3 ft too short. Nor is it 2ft higher than any flammable material within 10 ft.
@Lonewalker The liner insulation serves two purposes. 1. to warm quickly and stabilize draft. and 2. to stop conducted heat spread. These systems are designed and tested to real world conditions secure as safe an installation as possible, considering you are bringing a fire into your living space. A hostile chimney fire can burn with temperatures of near 2100º ƒ. Where I live, single brick width chimney construction with no clearances to combustible materials/framing members is common in older houses, pre- early 50's stock specifically. Bricks don't burn easily but transfer heat, I've read about 86% efficiently. Nearby combustibles (enclosed or not) dry out over time and when exposed to heat historically degrade in a manner similar to what happens in the combustion process, the kindling temperatures can be lowered into the lower 300º's. Maybe let a chimney fire roll for 5-7 minutes, do the math, even at 50% efficient heat transfer ability you're looking at over 1000ºƒ temperatures. I hope that the masons were diligent in filling the joints and using the good brick particularly in those hidden from view areas and no hotspots occur, but..... I prefer not to trust in hope whereas the testing and listings have been laid out, instructions written and approved in testing lab. Warranties of the liner products are dependent upon insulation for solid fuel use as well, if that matters to you.
The so called instructor has ignored just about every Working At Heights recommendation ever. Rickety ladders, no roof ladder, walking on the roof without secured safety harnesses, not a safety helmet between the pair of them. WHEN, not if, they fall off the roof they will die of broken backs and heads cracked open for their brains to spill out. RIP
@@DeanJuvenal stop knit picking everything. If people went by every single text book rule on everything nothing would ever get done or it would come at a high price. Just do the jobs with with basic common sense and be done with it. I installed two free standing stoves with this method and bypassed all the BS and my stoves have been running 3 years with not one single issue. And, the rules in place for how that stuff had to be installed was ridiculous. And, i went up on my roof in the same method i see your common roofer goes up on a roof to staple down shingles. Dude chill
@GenerationOfBmx. Your credibility would be slightly enhanced, but not by much, if you knew the difference between the verb “to knit” and the noun “a nit”. In your world when people fall off roofs they are immediately swept up in the arms of one of the SuperPersons flying around your skies or the Laws of Gravity have been deregulated and so nit wits such as you float gently to the ground landing unharmed on your feet. In the real world, people who clamber around roofs without Working at Heights equipment fall off roofs, plunge to the ground, have broken bones and most importantly crack open their unprotected skulls so their hardly used brains are able to escape and live a life of independence,for about a nanosecond.
well I know more about this project than I did before watching the video......a lot of negativity but, I don't see anyone pointing to better resources. Thanks for your video
Thank you very much for this instructional video. Now we have to try it ourselves!
Justin
Very informative and easy to understand. Many thanks.
Heats my whole downstairs and my upstairs hallway with no problem. Thermostat works great...beautiful flame. Quiet and easy to install
4 in grinder works great for cutting liner. Good video.
Correct 🤝🤝🤝🤝and avoiding the meat clever cut from using a sawzall with the vibration the saw create plus the grinder wheel cuts a crisp cut leaving no rough edges.🤝
Yes cut off wheel but this video is a joke.
Great suggestions, thanks!
nice fireplace
Thanks for the help!
Would have liked to see how you covered the liner with the insulation and mesh. Thanks for posting.
Roll the insulation long ways. Sand which the vent and spray insulation with 3m adhesive spray and wrap insulation around chimney taping every three feet or so. Then follow sea, with tape all the way down. Measure mesh and cut 6in shorter for pipe clamp crimping.
having installed hundreds of these correctly, watching this really stresses me out haha. ;)
MUCH better than some installs I've seen though!
@Lonewalker Chimney liner product installation instructions will cover this type of installation. Usually the bottom end of the flue liner should be a tee, with tee cap. This allows fly ash and soot, and/or creosote if you make it, that loses adherence to the liner during heating and cooling, a place to fall out of the waste stream without building up and impeding flow, as would happen if an elbow was used.
When you are going after your maintenance, yearly or more often as necessary, you're going to pop off your connector pipe, take it outside and clear it as well; at that point I would remove swept debris from the liner tee via specialized vacuum. That would be the most economical installation materials cost. You could also continue with more liner down from the tee, using the tee cap on the bottom of the extension, accessible from your clean-out door.
@@sweepbjames I think it depends on the stove. I’m installing a Quadra-fire Classic Bay 1200 pellet insert. It doesn’t require the ash trap as one is essentially built in with an easy way to vacuum it out. I’m no professional! I’m installing my own and that is what the stove shop advised.
Well done. Thank you.😊
I usually use a grinder with a cutting will make easy for of the liner
Excellent video. I learned, finally, that there is no dropping that flue liner down 'yourself'! Two man job for sure.
Thank you for the tips and walking us thur it good job
Thanks soo much!!! you just save me good $$$ thanks!! the job is done 👍✌❤
Why am I watching this I don't have a chimney on my house.
I'm dead haha
😀
thanks for showing! it would have been helpful to watch how you dealt w inserting the firebox
good work. thank you.
Did dude just bark at us at 7:09 ? 🤣🤣🤣
I think he said, "Next". Good question.
Yes, Ruff.
I normally don't leave comments but this video is genius an actual install with hiccups and their fixes. Tip my hat to you guys 🤠
thanks verry helpfull
THE STEP LADDER< YOUR CRAZY
Lmao true!
Thanks for the video. I am a retired havac/sheetmetal mechanic. Installed my share of stoves and sheet metal to masonry connections. Using lead or other soft metal screw inserts when fastening the cap to the terracotta will enable you to fasten the screws securely without "breaking" the terracotta. In this case the screw holes need to be slightly oversized. Great job and thank you for taking the time to share. Gotta love youtube!
Thanks guys! What do you recommend for silicone
Can you drop small masonry anchors in the liner lip to get a tight fit for the screws
Thank you for showing me how to do the job. What I am wondering is how does this differ on using the stainless tubing with a liner powered inside the chimney ??? How much difference in cost does this entail ??? Good day too. VF
I'll install it
I have pulled my liner into fireplace and set roof cap
Is sealing both sides of liner with heat cement acceptable or do I need something else to fill the rectangular opening around my liner?
Since there is a heat o lator and a metal chimney liner that goes all the way to the top of the chimney is it necessary to install that round liner? Just curious, as I am looking to have the exact same thing done and I also have a heat o later.
Would love to see you get that insulation round a big set in the chimney
How’s the power outlet installed. Good video
nice vid
wonderful install liner video. *** Q: What brand is the wood stove with the 45 degree exhuast on the back side of the stove???
great video... thanks
It's a regulation to insulate a liner even if it's double walled?
Great video, but what if I just want to use the fireplace without the stove ?
I learned that safety is not an issue..
To cut your liner you might also try taking an old wood cutting circular saw blade and flipping it around backward and using your circular saw. That's how I cut barn metal. It takes it some time to start cutting but once it starts it's much quicker and easier than tin snips.
How did you get by the smoke shelf or do you brake it out ?
I liked it but would install the connector between the fireplace and the tube the other way around. That metal fastener seems to be better off when tightened against metal. Also, that way you would make sure to capture all the smoke from the fireplace and insert all of it into the tube, the narrow closer the smoke and the larger opening closer to the tubing.
I am pretty sure by law, the connector needs to go inside the collar on the stove that way any creosote or water that falls down the chimney is funneled inside the fire box. Also remember, smoke is pulled up out of the firebox due to the draft created in the chimney....smoke is NOT pushed up the chimney from the firebox.
Wow, very nicely done. The only thing I would worry is rolling down the roof there, though it does not look that steep.
About 25%?
@@DeanJuvenal the roof wasn't that bad. You should see the steepness of my A frame house. I spent my youth, and young adult life working on roofs. The whole safety line issue you keep bringing up is BS overkill in most cases. If one is prone to accidents, then yes by all means use a safety line every single time you go up on a roof. Roughly 12 years of working on roofs, and not a single person on the crew fell off, or had a close call. You learn very quickly how to traverse the average roof slope in a safe manner. Those who are to dense to learn, or insist on behaving in an unsafe manner were fired very quickly. Idiots like that will harm themselves & others in spite of a safety line, helmet, and wrapped in bubble wrap for there protection. It's far better to not cuddle the idiots. Get rid of them. Eventually they might learn to be serious, or go work in fast food.
@@williamallen7836 welcome to the modern world where hark backs to the 1840s like you who worked their employees into early graves are gradually being run out of business. Mind you, with your anti Trades Union laws and attempts to roll back H & S safeguards in the name of profit, avoiding death dealing scum like you can be difficult.
Your pathetic defence for your killer working conditions is typical. When someone is killed or injured it’s never your fault for not providing the correct equipment or working conditions. It’s always the corpse’s fault for being stupid, unlucky, accident prone or any other excuse you can make up to cover your crime.
QUESTION: Did you remove the fireplace damper, breaking out or removing damper flap, and how was the space in firebox sealed or not sealed around the new liner? Thanks for great video..👍
Chimney sweep here,
Removing the damper is almost always required. Chip away at the masonry near the damper to break it free. You can seal the damper frame area using high heat insulation and something like stove pipe, flattened, to seal the damper area.
A n installer just shoved plain tubing down my chimney no insulation my , old chimney liner from 1896 was Clay and it broke it measured 3 by 13 he used galvanized pipe 6 inch get me some feed back ...Thanks
helo does that fireplace insert heat your house real good do you pack it with wood logs
What's the diameter of the liner? Was that high temperature silicone? Are fireplace dimensions universal?
why didnt you show how you put the insulation on the liner?!
Thank you sir!
Waw good
Is this liner to be used with masonry chimneys only? or could I concievably run it in a larger diameter pipe, and use that outside as my chimney? My building is metal, no insulation, no wood framing, interior wall covering is gypsum.
If no insulation use a class a chimney vent.. no liner needed
Well, if my chimney is 6.25" wide inside diameter I'm guessing a pipe with insulation probably will not even fit down it will it?
doesnt that loose alot of heat up into the chimney itsself and cause condensation on chimney in attic?
Question;
Why not use the kind of top plate that comes over the edge and uses set screws?
I have never had good results in drilling into flower pots (clay).
use a grinder and a zip cut disc
Glad I found this video nice job
You showed me 10 seconds of u cutting the duct but didn’t show A single second of how to wrap insecure the insulation
lol yes. I was thinking the same thing.
It all looks good, but I would have liked to have seen the process for flashing and insulating (block off plate) the firebox side of the exhaust pipe.
so did I miss the part how you got by the existing flue?
Not bad for a rookie!🤣🤣
Is there an attachment for a fireplace insert that can connect the insert to the duct work already in the house.
Thanks, I found paper work that my fireplace has a liner , it is above the flue need to connect it
But how would you install this liner if you did not have a fireplace, but only the more typical, old school "hole in the wall," on the interior side of the chimney?
First time owning a fireplace. I was told I needed a damper, liner. Where would I install the damper?
I would like to have seen the connection of the insulation surrounding the pipe and then the wrap that followed, as these details do seem to matter and then actually putting the insert in place to see the final adjustment of the pipe height. Thanks for the video.
This is Chuck Conner with the Atlanta Chimney Doctor and I've have done over 1,000 chimney liners and they all are different. I also highly recommened you get a Chimney Professional to do your Chimney Liners and all your Chimney work period. I'm commenting on here to help people save money and not cut there hand off or do something far worse like burn your house down.I've seen so many people by the wrong size materials do the job upside down or not to code per the NFPA211 Standards. Then they have to pay extra money to get the job done correct.I hope my comment helps you.
Michael W Inserts are required by code to have a liner to at least the first terracotta liner. A liner to the top is easier to install and easier to clean.
Metal liners are also used if there are cracked liners or liners with gaps in between the liner sections.
The liner to a stove keeps the firebox and smoke chamber from filling up with creosote. If you load up your stove at night you definitely should have it swept once a year if not twice. I give customers a break if I sweep twice a year.
A chimney is an upside down chemical rocket.
If your chimney cap is rusted, that’s an indication you’ve had a chimney fire and your terracotta liner should be inspected. A fire will crack them.
I’ve been in the chimney business for 26 years.
Oh Chuckie, I’ve installed as many as you and this DYI video to help people avoid the expense of hiring condescending idiots like you. This is nor rocket science. Surely you have enough customers without scaring them into hiring you, unless you have a bad reputation.
I understand it is best to break or cut the tile liner flush with the chimney, then you have a much better base to drill and screw the plate to the 'now" concrete instead of the tile liner.
Is there such a product as stainless steel tile liner compression clips that would allow secure connection of the top adapter unit without trying to drill into that very breakable clay tile liner? If not I would try to fabricate my own.
next were gonna go up to the ruuuff
Hey, there is absolutely Know need to drill the ceramic chimney liner, buy the right cover that over laps with retaining screws/ bolts.
U so right
Right? Those screws will make it crack apart even faster.
do you have to have a chimney liner, I am getting one from a neighbor and he doesn't use a chimney liner
Do you need a chimney liner if you are using double wall pipe for a pellet stove that goes through an existing chimney? I can see the law saying add the insulation around the double wall pipe and the mesh to protect it, but seems overkill if I had to pay out for a stainless steel liner.
No, you don't need more insulation on an insulated pipe, but you need to make sure the pellet pipe is the proper diameter to run it all the way to the roof (and at least 3 more feet), according to the stove requirements. For instance, you are limited to some number of feet of 3-inch and beyond that would need 4-inch.
Ya, I didn't think I would need much more than just the pipe and a way to secure it at the top of the chimney then a chimney hood of sorts to keep rain and critters out.
HostileHST The pipe manufacturer or distributor (like Northline Express) has a "rain cap" if not also a "spark arrester" (for fireplace flues), designed to work with each type and size of pipe they sell.
Last time I heard the word spark arrester was when I owned 2 stroke dirt bikes, wow, now on pellet stoves? What has this world become, sheesh.
HostileHST Depends upon where you are. For instance, more local codes in California are requiring them on ANY solid-fuel chimney, based upon local conditions. "2001 California Building Code-Section 3102.3.8: Where determined necessary by the building official due to local climatic conditions or where sparks escaping from the chimney would create a hazard, chimneys attached to any appliance or fireplace that burns solid fuel shall be equipped with an approved spark arrester." City of Dublin requires them upon "transfer" of property; Daly City requires them upon "re-roofing", town of Hillsborough requires chimney cap installation and inspection when being transferred or when ANY building permit is issued for the property... Most such regulations were enacted in the last 20 years or so.
This might seem like a dumb question, but did you clean the chimney before installing?? Thanks in advance
Not a dumb question. I was thinking same thing when I saw the chimney box with what looks like creosote on it. If so, probably not flue cleaned either before installing the liner. I would assume it would be a good idea to clean it first.
So much for doing it yourself. First of all, the brick chimney doesn’t meet the 2ft/10 ft - 3 foot rule required by code.
Looks pretty good, although the chimney is a little short . (3' above the roof is code) :)) Good video though.
How bizarre, didn't he insulate the liner before lowering it down the chimney? Well, how come at the end the liner sticking out seem to be without the insulation blanket or am I hallucinating?
I would've just pot a box stove in place and connected to the linner.
Very well taught,Is it true you don't have to install it all the way up the chimney?
Not true take it from me who bought a home with a basterdized wood stove installation with the liner only going up about 6 feet into the fireplace chimney. Tons of creosote developed above the liner and thank God we did not have a chimney fire. I only leaned all of this safe wood stove installation information (into an existing fireplace) after we used the stove one heating season. I then hired a chimney service inspect everything and sweep the flues and they advised me about the very poor installation of my wood stove.
I had mortar missing in my chimney , they put a new liner in and I saw the shitty connection they made between the two liners.. I thought they would put concrete around the chimney so I did not worry but the leak into the house from the missing mortar is even worst now because of that cap plate, what gets pass that shitty connection of the two liners is now in the outside of the liner and cant even go up because the top is sealer with a cap and plate. and also they did not clean the chimney or sweep it, have you ever heard of anyone running concrete or any material around the outside of the new liner? Thanks in advance.
There are several insulation products that are routinely installed around flexible liners as part of a system. Ther-mix being one, and similar in-house brands by manufacturers Olympia and HomeSaver to name a couple others. They are a dry mix with water added onsite to create a damp potting soil like consistency, poured in around the liner, bucket by bucket, hammer vibrate the liner to settle voids during installation. Lighter and more thermally stable than concrete. Most require a minimum of 1" of material around the liner to be effective insulation in the event of a hostile chimney fire. If the area around the liner is cavernous, the poured in place insulation products become appreciably more expensive because of more material used.
Unfortunate, the state of workmanship that exists today. Know-it-alls don't bother to glance at installation instructions. I wonder what the installers contract with you promises, and did they leave you a copy of the installation instructions. You may have some leverage to negotiate a reasonable fix. I've not come across ANY instructions for lining solid fuel burning applications that do not include the use of specified insulation products. And the liner manufacturers warranties generally depend on insulation to keep the warranty intact. Carefully read over whatever documentation they left you with.
IDK why they don't make the cap for it to screw into the sides, rather than on top? That makes for a water leakage . Another thing that would help if? they make all chimney stand size to 6" only difference is the length
حلوه
No dump in the fireplace? That will block the liner, right?
Any chimney should be inspected and swept once a year. Even if you don’t use it, one day you might have to and you want to know it’s free and clear, plus structurally sound.
Hello,
We just purchased a house that has a gas fireplace however the home is not gas operated the whole entire house is electric we are looking to converted into a wood burning fireplace we were told that if we take off all the gas hose and the wires we could install heatstone inside it and we would be able to burn wood? Does anyone have any suggestions
Instead of that. chose a pellet burning insert !
If it cuts so easily I don't want it LOL I used the hard metal liner instead,also is more smooth inside
Use silicone to hold top plate!
I needed a laugh but you did not show us how you managed to cut the liner with that saw :)
would a Sawzall work better than tin snips?
Neither use a 4 inch grinder wheel. Clean crisp cut with no vibration leaving a rough cut and not needing a helper to hold the pipe.
Question: How do you clean this liner ? I t appears you would have to remove the stove to unhook the liner, looking back in the video, it seemed you had a problem getting the wood stove in place. So, how hard would this be for a home owner ?
Joseph, it all depends on the stove! The majority of them have removable baffles inside the stove that can be removed so that when you brush the liner the creosote will fall down into the stove. Although some stoves do not have removable baffles in which case, yes, you would need to move the stove out. They can usually be moved fairly easily using a 2X4 with a fulcrum & some heavy duty casters. (Or one of many other methods)
Ps. (It is also recommended by the liner companies to use either a stainless steel or poly brush on the liners rather than a regular steel bristled brush)
+Joseph M
i would recommend a T section with a removable cover on the bottom of the liner. remove the cover, dump the creosote into a bag and put the cover back on the T. No need to pull the stove. I clean on just like this once a year. Burn Wise- avoid the surprise.
***** Thank you for your reply, and I
will be doing just that this year. Thanks again..
Joseph M
This looks easy as hell. This is what I was quoted $7500 for?
..and IF this were the case, one should teach about using 12months/dried/split wood, and hot enough to burn 800F+. Also the metal wood burner needs to be one with secondary air feed, so to keep emissions down, and not pollute your air-shed...IE...the air your neighbor breathes.
Does anyone know what kind of stove this is with the slanted back?
ladders are supposed to extend well beyond the roof line. That there was a pretty big fine if an inspector shows up.
Apparently these guys were not the least bit concerned about any "inspectors", for some reason. In the fire department training, the minimum safe height of a ground ladder is at least two rungs above the roof. That way you have something to hold onto as you're swinging your legs around to get on and off the ladder. It also allows you to see where the ladder is, if you're on a smokey roof, in the dark.... which we hope you never have to do.
Also, depending upon where you are, no inspector has any jurisdiction over DIY safety, and OSHA doesn't have enforcement jurisdiction over employers with under a certain number of workers.
tar, mortar and new age silicone in caulk tubes is sick but expensive.
Wow that liner sure went down the chimney perfectly. What do you do about the fireplace damper?? How do you get the liner past the damper?
This liner is for an insert not a typical fireplace. If you just have a fireplace then you will need a liner fitted for your fireplace, Usually the damper will be cut out completely and replaced with a top mount damper that closes your chimney from the top.
Earl Ferguson
A fireplace insert is, by definition, installed in a "typical fireplace".
What is unbelievable to me is that fireplace repair businesses are quoting $5000-8000 for ranch homes and $10k+ for 2 story homes. It's a straight up scam imo
That's why we're here.
The problem with this liner is the inside is not smooth, cleaning with a brush will not clean the inside fully, creosote will build up, not safe, I put a black single wall stove pipe liner in my chimney to code and brush it out the first of every month, been doing this since 84,
Does anyone know about how much this would cost if done by a company?
I absolutely HATE DIY or any video really, that doesn't give any costs. Whats the point of DIY? Learn and save. Save what? Save how much? Is it worth it? Who f'ing knows?
A company will charge anywhere from $1800 to $2500. its not worth it. its easy to do if you're not afraid to get on a roof
2k all day
Battery powered grinder to cut it
I would suggest a tee so if any water comes down the liner from heavy rain your stove won't get ruined. I lost a $2000 stove because the installers failed to put in a tee. Water came done into the stove dripping water on the fountain and also cracked some porcelain items. Just a suggestion
Couldn't agree more reading all the post regarding this video, I laughed when this guy recommended punching a whole in the liner and using tin snips. Think this is the only guy in the trade doing such. The step ladder is a stupid move! The stove adapter with the cement wasn't very smart. Should of used a 30° adapter in this installation. What really got me was when he drilled in to the terra-cotta to secure the top plate, the best way is to use what's called a terra-cotta top plate, this style top plate allows you to simply bolt the top plate to the exterior or the terra-cotta. Please people have a licensed professional install your lining system. After all it is connected to a fire source in your home!
Cost pls?
Why would you put silicone around the top of the liner where the cap is? That metal is going to get hot and silicone is not heat rated.