This is a old video but I'd recommend anyone doing this to try out to use some chill blocks on those outside corner welds, they'd have to be alluminum or you can wrap steel bars in alluminum foil, this acts as a huge heatsink and really stops any form of warpage
Great work and info! I'm planning a custom fuel cell for my tubbed 71 Chevelle. Being I'm not a pro at tig welding aluminum but pretty good at steel, I going to first build a model from plastic sign material, then aluminum but only tack it together. Then pay a pro to weld out.
Solid plan of action. I'd recommend discussing it with whoever you intend to weld it first. That way if they have any particular wants for how things should fit or the materials used they can voice those. It is no fun for a welder when a project walks in that could have been made easier with some minor changes but it's too late when it's there. 👍👍
Thank you. I try to keep things attainable for the masses. I will get to more complex projects and equipment eventually but what good is in the in depth stuff without the basics, right?
Awesome video! I am building a Frankenjeep and the frame is a mid 1950's M-38A1 (aka the original CJ-5) and the roll cage in the CJ-3A body tub interferes with the original fuel tank location underneath the drivers seat. However, there is a small triangular shape behind the rear axle. I'll have to dig up the cardboard mockup and reevaluate my tank design.
I enjoyed this video a lot. I am still fresh to welding and need to replace my fuel tank on my samurai and definitely want/need a custom one to fit my needs. I soon hope to find a tig job to enhance my tig skills though
I went over to: th-cam.com/users/mandicreally Making car / fabrication content was simply too expensive and not paying the bills, so I've shifted to 3D Printing & Maker / DIY content. This channel isn't dead, but it is pretty heavily de-prioritized currently.
Build a fuel tank as your first welding project? What could possibly go wrong? LMAO. I've been welding 40yrs+ and I think of myself as still learning. When I hear someone boast "I can do anything" I run.
Jim Zivny yep. My response is generally "I can attempt anything, no guarantees beyond that." Overconfidence was something I learned to shake in my early 20s "I know everything" days.
Welding Stainless IS far easier than Aluminum but requires back purging. For a DIY project that is quite an additional expense in Argon gas and the additional equipment to properly purge. I find Stainless sheetmetal warps more severely when welded than Aluminum does, and aluminum is easier to force back to intended shape because, well obviously. Add in that Cutting and Grinding Stainless is more effort and you get why I recommend Aluminum for a beginner building a fuel tank. Please enlighten me to where I'm wrong about any of that.
It would have been helpful if you had stated the fitting sizes, Where you purchased them, and maybe part number). Also, how did you set up the float to get an accurate fuel reading?
Oh you want to fill it? HA. Really though, I didn't get the filler neck in until the tank was fitted in position on the frame of the truck. It just didn't fit into the timeframe of this video. I'm certain I will do a Version 2.0 of this video eventually and explain things a little better and more thoroughly. Thank you!
@@HotRodHippie Too easy i figured it might be something like that. You have some awsome vids on your channel, i look forward to seeing the next part of this video.
Filler neck and wiring provisions, rollover check valve, how are you going to mount it and I'd suggest a nice static/ground bonding strap lug on the sending unit that goes to the frame. You know, the little things.
Parts to put those together didn't arrive in time for this video. They are all installed now. I'll eventually do an update video on the completed tank. When it isn't 900 miles away from me.
Nik Blackhurst of Bad Obsession Motorsports built a fuel tank for his Mini project. His reason for putting the return tube at the bottom: "To keep it from sounding like somebody constantly having a wazz in the fuel tank." (That's "taking a pee" to you."
I didn’t see the fuel pump power/ground wire, where did you run it? Or did you tie it into the fuel level sensor power and ground it to the fuel level sender wire?
I didn't include that in this video because parts hadn't arrived unfortunately. I drilled two holes in the fuel pump module I made. Used stepped telfon washers to both seal the hole and allow bolts to pass through. Those bolts I used to run the power and ground for the pump.
Awesome video thanks the simplified it and answered a lot of questions that I had definitely making one for myself keep up the good work hot rod hippie
Awesome video. Just subscribed and looked forward to watching the rest of your videos. Great channel and so glad I found it. You do a really nice job and very inspiring. Thanks for sharing your passion. Joel....
Besides physical space, did you take into consideration quantity of fuel or weight of the fuel? What’s the overall quantity in your tank? I imagine you can manually water fill it or do math for volume but it would be cool to have heard your approach. As far as weight, how did you plan to support X number of gallons of gas weighing X pounds, mounting it, etc. Nice project though.
I always do volume calculations based off dimensions. In this case the tank ended up around 19 gallons. Usually I assume you will lose a little capacity due to fill height (tanks rarely fill all the way before forcing the gas pump off). So I'd say this is effectively a 17-18 gallon tank. Generally I aim for a upper teens to twenty gallon tank in most vehicles. If I end up much larger I usually scale down. If it isn't big enough I get creative with sizing, to try and make it larger. As for strength, no I really don't do any calculations for strength. Experience has showed me what works. A lot of aftermarket tanks available for racing are just blank boxes with no rigidity added in and they function. This tank has the baffles that also provide structural support across the entire tank, so it's a non-issue in my eyes. If I was trying to make a super light tank out of the thinnest materials I would pay attention to those factors. This video was just a matter of "I'm making a tank, I may as well film it" not me setting out to make a tank video. I'll do a better follow up with the missing details in the future.
If you have the tools and equipment to do it efficiently it can be a good hustle. Most companies started out that way. Personally I couldn't see myself doing it without more equipment to make the process go quicker. As it stands it takes too long to be profitable in comparison to exisiting products for my liking. Good luck if you do it. 👍👍
I placed it at the far corner opposite of the filler neck (which also didn't feature in this video). Unfortunately I didn't get to finish the tank entirely in this video as parts were on order and I had limited time. I will redo it again at some point with a bit more detail on people's commonly asked questions. 👍
@@next_level_customs8618 I use an AN fittings and run a hose up higher than the Filler Neck. That way it can vent when filling the tank. I also usually do a U shape at the end and have the end of the hose hang downward, then attach a filter. Sometimes a rollover valve as well in case of rollover. All that to prevent water, dirt, and bugs getting into the tube and down into the tank.
Nice tank. I have an aluminum tank from Brothers Trucks that needs to be cleaned out. There's a concern that some debris may be obstructing the fuel line. Do you have any advice on cleaning it out? Worst case scenario I was thinking about cutting the top along the corners BUT is that a explosion waiting to happen? Or can it be done and safely welded back by a pro? Please advise!
I would look at getting a clean out / inspection cover. The plate I used to make the fuel pump module is intended for that purpose. It's designed to be installed in tanks for access to clean them out. You could cut a hole in the tank and just cover it back up with that when done. Worst case, yes you could cut an access hole and a professional should be able to weld it back up. I've welded tanks numerous times, it's entirely doable just something that has to be done correctly and safely. It's not hard, just time consuming. I would check with the shop you plan to have weld it before you cut it. It would be best to get their opinion on how to best cut it so they can most easily repair it. As for cutting on a tank, if it's aluminum that shouldn't be a problem. Just go slowly as to not overheat it, but there aren't sparks when cutting aluminum so it shouldn't be too dangerous. I'd recommend flushing the tank out with water first and maybe half fill it with water to keep it cool. Hope this helps.
do you have an idea of how to do a classy chassis truck fuel tank for the bed of the truck that needs to be 13.5 inches tall and 37 inches deep and 50 inches wide and aluminum?
I am a fabricator and you did a good job here. I am surprised you applied so much rod. That were some lumpy welds I am certain you have superior technique than that. Did you do that for strength or because your going to be sanding and linishing the welds later?
Nope, I was just too worried about blowing through while filming so I overfilled. I'd rather overfill on a part that won't be visible when installed than have to deal with that. (I'm not the best aluminum welder.)
Yes I don’t really recommend it for that reason. You CAN seal it, but the likelihood of 100% properly sealing it is slim. I’ve worked with more than a few steel tanks over the years. Factory and custom built, and they always end up rusting / causing fuel system issues due to that rust.
Steve Westberg good question, I'm surprised no one asked it sooner. I drilled the fuel pump module and installed plastic bushings that are fuel safe, then put in 10-32 stainless bolts to wire it up. Basically I made my own bulkhead wiring setup with stainless bolts and plastic bushings. I couldn't find a decent kit or bulkhead setup I actually cared for available.
I was thinking of building a tank for a mini bike. Is mild steel ok to make a tank out of? I Don't mind if it only lasts a few years. Would I need to coat the inside of the tank with one of those tank coatings?
How many cars running down the road have an internal bladder in their tanks? Or ever did? Bladders are generally a thing on vehicles expecting to see collisions and more extreme conditions (off road racing / circle track / etc). Don't rigidly mount the tank (rubber spacers / bushings) and be mindful about the chassis stiffness. One video cannot cover every facet of custom car design.
Should show bending the tank, can't see in my head how it would have bent like that in a metal brake i.e. looks like you made 3 90 degree bends. How much money do you have in just the aluminum sheets?
Fair point. I left bending off because people's brakes vary wildly in capability or availability. Many folks doing this at home may have to get a shop to bend it for them and the shop may dictate how it can be bent. For me I had a tiny brake that wasn't rated for this material that my Dad and I were able to manhandle and make it work. It was so small that we were able to bend that box closed on itself nicely, then remove the top clamp bolts and slide the box off of the brake easily. Material prices can vary so much, I absolutely do not remember what it cost. I think the sheet for the tank was somewhere between $100-150 USD at the time. It looks like online right now I could buy the material for about $150 without shipping, so that seems about correct. As I stated and always will, building a custom tank is rarely a way to save money. It often runs almost the same amount if not more than just buying one would as the builders are buying materials by the truck load.
You can actually see the brake we used behind me at the @3:30 mark in the video. You can see how small it is and the unique, screw down top clamp design that it uses. That allowed for the bending of the closed box.
It could be but you'll need a Spool Gun or a Push-Pull Torch on the machine. It also won't be particularly easy to control your heat input so I'd figure on using thicker materials than the TIG requires for the safety the thickness gives to melting away. Basically, I wouldn't do it and I don't know that I personally could. I don't have nearly enough experience with a Spool Gun to say, but I'm sure some welders could.
I've built a couple of tanks for my rockcrawler. The first one was a 20 gallon with a notch area to go around the exhaust. Of course it had a sump area and baffles to keep fuel at the sending unit. Which I used a stock '88 chevy TBI pump for the FI. The second was a 15 gallon tank I built to replace the first tank so I could move it to a new location. This was part of a redo of the crawler. 4 to 2 seats and lightening it. This tank has a 1 gallon sump area and of course baffles. Both tanks I mad out of 16 ga. mild steel. I lined them with Eastwood's tank restore. Never any issues with either.
Greatly reduced air pressure from the compressor. So regulator turned way down, blow light pressure into the tank. Then spray all the gasket surfaces and welds with soapy water (dish soap and water mixture). It bubbles up quite a lot if there is a leak. Low pressure air is a must. Normal shop air will balloon the tank. There are other methods but this is a fairly easy one. Next tank I do I'll make a point of filming testing.
Yes but it isn't a good idea to fill it up full. My 68 Vette has a humongous hole for filling it up and I have to stop with the fuel level an inch or so down. Fuel slosh and expansion will cause a full tank to go out the vent/overflow.
I have a question I've been wondering about. Maybe you can give me some insight or your opinion. I'm thinking about building a fuel tank that fits in the back of my bed of my 4x4 but yet combo as a bench seat at the same time with seat belts. What do you think?
Making it strong enough would be an absolute nightmare. Then you have anyone riding in it strapped to a gas tank. In a rollover or just a really good knock to the rig, if a weld cracked or something, now you have passengers strapped to a flammable box. I personally wouldn’t do it.
I generally use 18 or 16 gauge stainless for tanks. Much thicker and they get heavy quickly. But thicker materials would avoid warping better. That is the biggest challenge of stainless. It warps easily while welding. And you should backpurge stainless when welding a tank, which requires a lot of argon on fuel tanks.
I got the most or the bungs for this one from Boyd Welding. For what you want to do I think Rick's Tanks sells a billet weld in ring for the newer GM pump rings. Get in touch with them: rickstanks.com/product/weld-in/
It's a billet cnc machined part (full block of aluminum required). I cna only find one other company selling one and it is also $129 and its ugly compared to the Rick's one. If you don't want to spend that much you could get rings like I did and make your own setup that just uses the pump. But honestly the ring I got, weld on An fittings, and then a ring for a fuel sender and you are probably at $60-75. In the scheme of custom Fabrication parts $129 sounds pretty reasonable to me.
@@melrich2124 I see. Well at that rate you are ahead of the game Vs an Aeromotive Stealth setup or many other options for the $129 the ring would cost. I'd say I invested about $120 in fittings, fuel sender, fuel pump, and other parts to make this tank. And in the end using a factory pump setup is a cleaner look (from some perspectives) as well as being easy to get replacement parts for. Sorry I can't point you anywhere cheaper. Custom Fab is rarely the cheap route unless you have everything laying around already.
Do you need it slightly smaller for better ground clearance? ThorBros sells a crossmember that allows you to lift the factory gas tank up higher if that is the case. I have no experience with that but it would be an option instead of making a full new tank. thorbros.com/crossmembers/s10-raised-gastank-crossmember Let me know where you are located and I could maybe point you toward someone.
My Dad was going back and forth on where he wanted the filler to be so I had to leave it out of this video. I will he doing an update video on the truck soon. The neck is in now and will be part of that video.
Someone absolutely could use a spool gun. I just find TIG to be far more controlled and solid, completely fusion is essential when making a fuel cell. Minor mistakes mean fuel leaks and that's clearly dangerous. Someone better with a spool gun may be able to get the job done, personally I'll stick to TIG. It looks nicer when finished also, clearly less important but it does matter when I'm being paid for a job.
Send me that same tank in a couple of years. It isn’t an instant failure situation. It is that the coking and metallurgy changes on the backside of the weld will lead to corrosion eventually. And when someone is investing the time and effort into building something from stainless, they are usually doing so to avoid corrosion. In industrial applications they weigh the cost of doing it via purge, etc, vs the cost of redoing the job down the line. I’ve met plenty of commercial welders who worked in situations where it was just expected they’d be redoing a project again in a few years. And in the long run that was just a cost of business.
You don't have to purge Stainless unless it is food grade and Sugar passes Xray. Aluminum however you need a High Freq. welding setup with water cooled torch, Stainless you don't.
You should always backpurge stainless. If you don't it will corrode completely defeating the purpose of using stainless. We had a stainless tank at the shop recently where all of the welds were rusty because of poor gas coverage and lack of back purging. I've seen stainless headers break in the corroded areas where they weren't back purged. Water cooled torches are a nice to have but not needed for any materials. I welded this entire tank air-cooled and had zero hot hand issues.
ewmism think I needed to step down a filler size? Goal was penetration with a fully filled weld. It is an unseen component under the truck so weld aesthetic wasn't the primary goal. I'm not an amazing aluminum welder so I'm always looking it improve. Any input is appreciated.
I specifically didn't say that about Stainless. I said it's harder to Cut, Bend, and Grind. I did NOT say Weld. It does require Back Purging which requires an additional Regulator and Argon tank (or dual regulator). That is a lot of additional expense for someone building one fuel tank and thus why I mentioned it. I approached this as an introduction for a DIY crowd. To someone in that situation they likely don't have a Brake, Shear, or Welding setup to properly produce a Stainless Steel tank. Heck when I made this video I didn't have the tools on hand to do it. I've built stainless tanks before but wasn't in a position to make this one out of it.
@@HotRodHippie for you normal welder welding stainless is probably cheaper tho considering aluminum is a full new learning experience and most even experienced welders take some time to learn it.
He's welding three, oh, oh, three? More like three, zero, zero, three. And putting the pick up in a "designed in" low spot on a primary tank and having it feed to a smaller secondary tank "one gallon sized" with the main high pressure fuel pump in the secondary tank that does not need baffles would be better as when the primary tank fuel level is low and the car is parked on a steep slope the fuel can run to one way or the other and the pick up will suck air. That secondary tank will still have enough fuel to start and run the engine long enough to get going or move to flatter ground.
Ah yes we all remember the famous James Bond "double zero seven". What you are referring to is generally called a surge tank. On most street applications is unnecessary. A well baffled tank will generally maintain fuel around the pump area even on a mild incline. A built in low spot only works if you are willing to sacrifice tank capacity for that mild benefit. In this case the truck will lay frame on the ground, so we were not willing to have a drop sump hanging out below the frame.
Not trying to be a dick but you might want to look up rule number when when placing a gas tank. There is a reason that they don’t put gas tanks between the rear bumper and rear axle anymore. They learned that lesson from the old pinto’s in the 70’s. They have a high probability of catching fire and or exploding in a rear end collisions. Again I am not trying to be a jerk I just don’t want anything bad to happen to you or someone else in the event of an accident.
It was inside the cab of this truck originally. Moving it to that place in the frame is already a huge safety improvement. Not to mention this is a pickup truck, there is a Bed and the back wall of the Cab between the tank and the driver. Plenty of distance and obstructions from a fire. I get what you are trying to do but Classic Cars and Trucks were not designed for much else. There usually isn't any other locations where a tank CAN be placed. Where else would you recommend it be installed? Saddle tanks are vulnerable to the same problem when being T-boned, and on these trucks the frame rails are too narrow go put it under the cab and between the rails like a modern truck.
@@HotRodHippie there is absolutely no need to back purge a stainless tank during welding. Purging is mainly required for pipe or tube work. It would be pointless to back purge for corner to corner welds such as in a tank as you are suggesting. Yes I’m a qualified fabricator since 1993.
@@thebigw3377 why is it required for tube work but not for sheet work? Stainless steel is stainless steel. The metal sugars up on the backside of the weld exactly the same on a sheet metal corner weld as it does on a tube butt weld. Mock-up a stainless box without the sides, weld the corners, look at the backside of the welds. They WILL exhibit the same “sugaring” (flaky grey slag-like substance) that any stainless gets when exposed to atmosphere while welded. That sugaring is iron being pushed out of the stainless steel and WILL corrode and ruin the benefits of Stainless Steel, thus wasting a customers time and money in the long run. Does back purging a tank take a LOT of gas? Yep. It’s why aerospace and similar industries weld inside of purge chambers, so they don’t have to keep just venting gas to atmosphere. Do you not wear a respirator while welding Stainless also?
@@HotRodHippie if your seeing excessive sugaring on the inside of a corner to corner weld then you have other issues. Ive literally fabricated thousands of stainless tanks for oil/gas industry and not one has been back purged. The pipe work attached yes but not the tank as it’s pointless. Respirator ??? Safety’s for wimps son 👊
So in a how to video I shouldn't explain things? There was plenty of welding here. If you expected a "how to weld an aluminum tank" video that would be another video all together. It is too complex of a topic to roll into this one video.
Worse than stock unbaffled tanks? I’m impressed! I WON! You’re gonna have to explain what’s so bad about it. Enlighten me please, I’m curious for my own information and that of the numerous fabricators I’ve known to use the exact same overall design.
@@HotRodHippie where the pickup is. there's a reason why oem put a buldge lower in tank where pick up sits doesn't matter how many baffles you put init will still surge Again worst tank design I've ever seen
Bigbot Hoee have you looked under many vehicles? A sump under the fuel pump module is a thing but most are flat. Such as the EVO 7 you have videos about, there is not bulge under the fuel pump module... When I was a Mitsubishi technician I don’t remember any Mitsus having one. Granted that was 15 years ago when Evo 8/9 were new cars. Having one would be a good idea, gravity working for you Is always good, but doing so would cut down on overall tank capacity in this case. The truck is only 1” off the ground when laid out, so going down with the tank design isn’t a good idea. Most aftermarket tanks for these trucks (and many many other vehicles) are designed very similar to this. So I have to ask, how many tank designs have you seen to say this is the worst one?
@@HotRodHippie you must have been a bad mitsi tech then I've built fuel hangers for the evos with surge tank built init And they do have a dropped section built into tank and where it holds fuel in a cavity only a 10mm drop in that area and most ranks are like this
Didn't do it until quite a while later, but I used Telfon shoulder washers to insulate some drilled holes, and used simple stainless screws to wire with. I made a short form video about it a while ago: th-cam.com/users/shorts5z-4AZ5tqZw
![Making A Custom Fuel Tank & More [#UPDATE 303]](/img/n.gif)
How did I power the fuel pump in this build? Check out this video to learn more: th-cam.com/video/5z-4AZ5tqZw/w-d-xo.html
Ok lets do this! I will make a fuel tank for my second welding project. Fingers crossed.
Trial by fire! (Fingers crossed for not fires...)
This is a old video but I'd recommend anyone doing this to try out to use some chill blocks on those outside corner welds, they'd have to be alluminum or you can wrap steel bars in alluminum foil, this acts as a huge heatsink and really stops any form of warpage
Copper chill bars too
Great work and info! I'm planning a custom fuel cell for my tubbed 71 Chevelle. Being I'm not a pro at tig welding aluminum but pretty good at steel, I going to first build a model from plastic sign material, then aluminum but only tack it together. Then pay a pro to weld out.
Solid plan of action. I'd recommend discussing it with whoever you intend to weld it first. That way if they have any particular wants for how things should fit or the materials used they can voice those. It is no fun for a welder when a project walks in that could have been made easier with some minor changes but it's too late when it's there. 👍👍
Found this extremely useful! Thank you for uploading this.
dude you got an awesome channel , first one that iv'e seen that covers all the basic's no big fancy expensive equipment here ...love it!!👏👏👍👍💪💪😎
Thank you. I try to keep things attainable for the masses. I will get to more complex projects and equipment eventually but what good is in the in depth stuff without the basics, right?
Awesome video! I am building a Frankenjeep and the frame is a mid 1950's M-38A1 (aka the original CJ-5) and the roll cage in the CJ-3A body tub interferes with the original fuel tank location underneath the drivers seat. However, there is a small triangular shape behind the rear axle. I'll have to dig up the cardboard mockup and reevaluate my tank design.
This was an awesome video! Thank you for putting it together.
I imagine if this dude lost the ability to use his arms and hands he would also loose the ability to talk.
I enjoyed this video a lot. I am still fresh to welding and need to replace my fuel tank on my samurai and definitely want/need a custom one to fit my needs. I soon hope to find a tig job to enhance my tig skills though
Forrest Whaley practice practice practice. That's the way to improve. Good luck on your goal.
I keep coming back around to your videos! Where did you go!? 🤘🏼🔧⚙️💯👍🏼
I went over to: th-cam.com/users/mandicreally
Making car / fabrication content was simply too expensive and not paying the bills, so I've shifted to 3D Printing & Maker / DIY content. This channel isn't dead, but it is pretty heavily de-prioritized currently.
I run a vintage beer keg in the bed of my C10 for a primary tank. I want a sleek in frame tank, maybe ten gallons, as my backup.
Build a fuel tank as your first welding project? What could possibly go wrong? LMAO.
I've been welding 40yrs+ and I think of myself as still learning. When I hear someone boast "I can do anything" I run.
Jim Zivny yep. My response is generally "I can attempt anything, no guarantees beyond that." Overconfidence was something I learned to shake in my early 20s "I know everything" days.
I can oxy-fuel weld a 30 inch gap.
Amen to that
Lmfao dude said aluminum is eazier than stainless DEAR GOD help these new welders
Welding Stainless IS far easier than Aluminum but requires back purging. For a DIY project that is quite an additional expense in Argon gas and the additional equipment to properly purge. I find Stainless sheetmetal warps more severely when welded than Aluminum does, and aluminum is easier to force back to intended shape because, well obviously. Add in that Cutting and Grinding Stainless is more effort and you get why I recommend Aluminum for a beginner building a fuel tank.
Please enlighten me to where I'm wrong about any of that.
It would have been helpful if you had stated the fitting sizes, Where you purchased them, and maybe part number). Also, how did you set up the float to get an accurate fuel reading?
Excellent information !!!!
Awsome video, good tutorial on how to build it. Just a question but how do you fill it up?
Oh you want to fill it? HA. Really though, I didn't get the filler neck in until the tank was fitted in position on the frame of the truck. It just didn't fit into the timeframe of this video. I'm certain I will do a Version 2.0 of this video eventually and explain things a little better and more thoroughly. Thank you!
@@HotRodHippie Too easy i figured it might be something like that. You have some awsome vids on your channel, i look forward to seeing the next part of this video.
Filler neck and wiring provisions, rollover check valve, how are you going to mount it and I'd suggest a nice static/ground bonding strap lug on the sending unit that goes to the frame. You know, the little things.
Parts to put those together didn't arrive in time for this video. They are all installed now. I'll eventually do an update video on the completed tank. When it isn't 900 miles away from me.
Nik Blackhurst of Bad Obsession Motorsports built a fuel tank for his Mini project. His reason for putting the return tube at the bottom: "To keep it from sounding like somebody constantly having a wazz in the fuel tank." (That's "taking a pee" to you."
Good work 305
Good job. Very informative.
I didn’t see the fuel pump power/ground wire, where did you run it? Or did you tie it into the fuel level sensor power and ground it to the fuel level sender wire?
I didn't include that in this video because parts hadn't arrived unfortunately. I drilled two holes in the fuel pump module I made. Used stepped telfon washers to both seal the hole and allow bolts to pass through. Those bolts I used to run the power and ground for the pump.
You only need to cut the corners of the baffles.
Thanks I’m gonna give it a shot. I need to fill some motorcycle saddle bags with gas and no one makes a kit. So it should be fun.
1:00 every car guy when casual people ask stupid questions
How many people looked up this video anticipating JB’s fuel shortage?
Awesome video thanks the simplified it and answered a lot of questions that I had definitely making one for myself keep up the good work hot rod hippie
Awesome video. Just subscribed and looked forward to watching the rest of your videos. Great channel and so glad I found it. You do a really nice job and very inspiring. Thanks for sharing your passion. Joel....
Joel L thank you very much. I appreciate it and hope to keep putting out great videos all the time!
Besides physical space, did you take into consideration quantity of fuel or weight of the fuel? What’s the overall quantity in your tank? I imagine you can manually water fill it or do math for volume but it would be cool to have heard your approach. As far as weight, how did you plan to support X number of gallons of gas weighing X pounds, mounting it, etc. Nice project though.
I always do volume calculations based off dimensions. In this case the tank ended up around 19 gallons. Usually I assume you will lose a little capacity due to fill height (tanks rarely fill all the way before forcing the gas pump off). So I'd say this is effectively a 17-18 gallon tank.
Generally I aim for a upper teens to twenty gallon tank in most vehicles. If I end up much larger I usually scale down. If it isn't big enough I get creative with sizing, to try and make it larger.
As for strength, no I really don't do any calculations for strength. Experience has showed me what works. A lot of aftermarket tanks available for racing are just blank boxes with no rigidity added in and they function. This tank has the baffles that also provide structural support across the entire tank, so it's a non-issue in my eyes. If I was trying to make a super light tank out of the thinnest materials I would pay attention to those factors.
This video was just a matter of "I'm making a tank, I may as well film it" not me setting out to make a tank video. I'll do a better follow up with the missing details in the future.
I was thinking doing this for a side hustle
If you have the tools and equipment to do it efficiently it can be a good hustle. Most companies started out that way. Personally I couldn't see myself doing it without more equipment to make the process go quicker. As it stands it takes too long to be profitable in comparison to exisiting products for my liking. Good luck if you do it. 👍👍
I like a 4047 rod it shines more than a 4043
I cannot say I've ever seen 4047 in the wild. If I do I'll give it a try sometime. 👍
Good look out I learned a lot by watching your video preciate it 305
Thank you for watching and commenting 👍
Awesome video! Just one question, where does the breather fitting go to?
I placed it at the far corner opposite of the filler neck (which also didn't feature in this video). Unfortunately I didn't get to finish the tank entirely in this video as parts were on order and I had limited time. I will redo it again at some point with a bit more detail on people's commonly asked questions. 👍
@@HotRodHippie oh ok, so does that fitting get attached to anything? Or does it just get left as an opening?
@@next_level_customs8618 I use an AN fittings and run a hose up higher than the Filler Neck. That way it can vent when filling the tank. I also usually do a U shape at the end and have the end of the hose hang downward, then attach a filter. Sometimes a rollover valve as well in case of rollover. All that to prevent water, dirt, and bugs getting into the tube and down into the tank.
@@HotRodHippie thank you for the info, I appreciate it. Awesome content on your channel 👍
Nice tank. I have an aluminum tank from Brothers Trucks that needs to be cleaned out. There's a concern that some debris may be obstructing the fuel line. Do you have any advice on cleaning it out? Worst case scenario I was thinking about cutting the top along the corners BUT is that a explosion waiting to happen? Or can it be done and safely welded back by a pro? Please advise!
I would look at getting a clean out / inspection cover. The plate I used to make the fuel pump module is intended for that purpose. It's designed to be installed in tanks for access to clean them out. You could cut a hole in the tank and just cover it back up with that when done.
Worst case, yes you could cut an access hole and a professional should be able to weld it back up. I've welded tanks numerous times, it's entirely doable just something that has to be done correctly and safely. It's not hard, just time consuming. I would check with the shop you plan to have weld it before you cut it. It would be best to get their opinion on how to best cut it so they can most easily repair it.
As for cutting on a tank, if it's aluminum that shouldn't be a problem. Just go slowly as to not overheat it, but there aren't sparks when cutting aluminum so it shouldn't be too dangerous. I'd recommend flushing the tank out with water first and maybe half fill it with water to keep it cool.
Hope this helps.
@@HotRodHippie thank you
Can you make a video on welding vs riveting a tank?
So are you going to be using the stock fuel pump? And can you build it with an external fuel pump? And AN lines?
Hello there.
I need to make a custom fuel tank for my Kubelwagen. If I choose steel instead aluminum, which gauge do you recommend? Thank you.
How about building a fuel-cell to go in the spare tire compartment of a 280Z Datsun
Easy, lets go!!
do you have an idea of how to do a classy chassis truck fuel tank for the bed of the truck that needs to be 13.5 inches tall and 37 inches deep and 50 inches wide and aluminum?
I am a fabricator and you did a good job here. I am surprised you applied so much rod. That were some lumpy welds I am certain you have superior technique than that. Did you do that for strength or because your going to be sanding and linishing the welds later?
Nope, I was just too worried about blowing through while filming so I overfilled. I'd rather overfill on a part that won't be visible when installed than have to deal with that. (I'm not the best aluminum welder.)
@@HotRodHippie Better too much weld, than not enough!!!
What about a steel gasoline tank? Not worth it because it might rust?
Yes I don’t really recommend it for that reason. You CAN seal it, but the likelihood of 100% properly sealing it is slim. I’ve worked with more than a few steel tanks over the years. Factory and custom built, and they always end up rusting / causing fuel system issues due to that rust.
@@HotRodHippie now,since they put ethanol in gasoline,it's made things worse since ethanol is highly corrosive
How did you run the power for the fuel pump
Steve Westberg good question, I'm surprised no one asked it sooner. I drilled the fuel pump module and installed plastic bushings that are fuel safe, then put in 10-32 stainless bolts to wire it up. Basically I made my own bulkhead wiring setup with stainless bolts and plastic bushings. I couldn't find a decent kit or bulkhead setup I actually cared for available.
what prevents the fuel leaving the tank through the vent ?
I was thinking of building a tank for a mini bike. Is mild steel ok to make a tank out of? I Don't mind if it only lasts a few years. Would I need to coat the inside of the tank with one of those tank coatings?
Yes it is doable and yes I would coat it. Many motorcycle tank builds are mild steel but I absolutely recommend coating it after.
No internal bladder? What happens when the weld beads crack from frame twisting?
How many cars running down the road have an internal bladder in their tanks? Or ever did? Bladders are generally a thing on vehicles expecting to see collisions and more extreme conditions (off road racing / circle track / etc). Don't rigidly mount the tank (rubber spacers / bushings) and be mindful about the chassis stiffness. One video cannot cover every facet of custom car design.
How do you test it for leaks?
Should show bending the tank, can't see in my head how it would have bent like that in a metal brake i.e. looks like you made 3 90 degree bends. How much money do you have in just the aluminum sheets?
Fair point. I left bending off because people's brakes vary wildly in capability or availability. Many folks doing this at home may have to get a shop to bend it for them and the shop may dictate how it can be bent.
For me I had a tiny brake that wasn't rated for this material that my Dad and I were able to manhandle and make it work. It was so small that we were able to bend that box closed on itself nicely, then remove the top clamp bolts and slide the box off of the brake easily.
Material prices can vary so much, I absolutely do not remember what it cost. I think the sheet for the tank was somewhere between $100-150 USD at the time. It looks like online right now I could buy the material for about $150 without shipping, so that seems about correct.
As I stated and always will, building a custom tank is rarely a way to save money. It often runs almost the same amount if not more than just buying one would as the builders are buying materials by the truck load.
You can actually see the brake we used behind me at the @3:30 mark in the video. You can see how small it is and the unique, screw down top clamp design that it uses. That allowed for the bending of the closed box.
Can one use a MIG welder to build this?
It could be but you'll need a Spool Gun or a Push-Pull Torch on the machine. It also won't be particularly easy to control your heat input so I'd figure on using thicker materials than the TIG requires for the safety the thickness gives to melting away.
Basically, I wouldn't do it and I don't know that I personally could. I don't have nearly enough experience with a Spool Gun to say, but I'm sure some welders could.
Do you have a vehicle you plan to build a custom fuel tank in? Have you built one before?
Did he not say it was for his father's truck/build?
Joshua H
“He” is the guy who made the vid, huh
I've built a couple of tanks for my rockcrawler. The first one was a 20 gallon with a notch area to go around the exhaust. Of course it had a sump area and baffles to keep fuel at the sending unit. Which I used a stock '88 chevy TBI pump for the FI. The second was a 15 gallon tank I built to replace the first tank so I could move it to a new location. This was part of a redo of the crawler. 4 to 2 seats and lightening it. This tank has a 1 gallon sump area and of course baffles. Both tanks I mad out of 16 ga. mild steel. I lined them with Eastwood's tank restore. Never any issues with either.
About to build one for my 180SX on my channel.
Thank you.
Thanks for watching and commenting. 👍
I have been wanting to weld a fuel tank, just so I can haul more fuel with me on long drives..
More fuel,more weight,if you don't drive enough it's bad to have too much
How do you pressure test and leak test it ? Just wondering
Greatly reduced air pressure from the compressor. So regulator turned way down, blow light pressure into the tank. Then spray all the gasket surfaces and welds with soapy water (dish soap and water mixture). It bubbles up quite a lot if there is a leak. Low pressure air is a must. Normal shop air will balloon the tank.
There are other methods but this is a fairly easy one. Next tank I do I'll make a point of filming testing.
If I get a fuel cell and fill it up at a gas station will the pump auto stop when full?
Yes but it isn't a good idea to fill it up full. My 68 Vette has a humongous hole for filling it up and I have to stop with the fuel level an inch or so down. Fuel slosh and expansion will cause a full tank to go out the vent/overflow.
I have a question I've been wondering about. Maybe you can give me some insight or your opinion. I'm thinking about building a fuel tank that fits in the back of my bed of my 4x4 but yet combo as a bench seat at the same time with seat belts. What do you think?
Making it strong enough would be an absolute nightmare. Then you have anyone riding in it strapped to a gas tank. In a rollover or just a really good knock to the rig, if a weld cracked or something, now you have passengers strapped to a flammable box. I personally wouldn’t do it.
About stainless though if I go that route which is a good gauge choose
I generally use 18 or 16 gauge stainless for tanks. Much thicker and they get heavy quickly. But thicker materials would avoid warping better. That is the biggest challenge of stainless. It warps easily while welding. And you should backpurge stainless when welding a tank, which requires a lot of argon on fuel tanks.
Have a generator for storms and welded my self a storage tank for gas
What gauge of sheet do you use?
Where do you get the rings? Trying to put an 2018 OEM pump for a L83 into a tank!
I got the most or the bungs for this one from Boyd Welding.
For what you want to do I think Rick's Tanks sells a billet weld in ring for the newer GM pump rings. Get in touch with them: rickstanks.com/product/weld-in/
I called Rick's Tanks and they want $129.00 for that ring in aluminum??????????
It's a billet cnc machined part (full block of aluminum required). I cna only find one other company selling one and it is also $129 and its ugly compared to the Rick's one.
If you don't want to spend that much you could get rings like I did and make your own setup that just uses the pump. But honestly the ring I got, weld on An fittings, and then a ring for a fuel sender and you are probably at $60-75.
In the scheme of custom Fabrication parts $129 sounds pretty reasonable to me.
Getting the part for $15.00 off a tank at All Car & Trucks locally.
@@melrich2124 I see. Well at that rate you are ahead of the game Vs an Aeromotive Stealth setup or many other options for the $129 the ring would cost. I'd say I invested about $120 in fittings, fuel sender, fuel pump, and other parts to make this tank. And in the end using a factory pump setup is a cleaner look (from some perspectives) as well as being easy to get replacement parts for. Sorry I can't point you anywhere cheaper. Custom Fab is rarely the cheap route unless you have everything laying around already.
Mounting brackets
For me it's just because I can.
Nothing wrong with that. I love to build things so why not?
hidden storage , moon shine anyone?
Looking for someone to build fuel cell for my 98 Chevy s10 to use stock fuel pump
Do you need it slightly smaller for better ground clearance? ThorBros sells a crossmember that allows you to lift the factory gas tank up higher if that is the case. I have no experience with that but it would be an option instead of making a full new tank.
thorbros.com/crossmembers/s10-raised-gastank-crossmember
Let me know where you are located and I could maybe point you toward someone.
Where is the filler neck?
My Dad was going back and forth on where he wanted the filler to be so I had to leave it out of this video. I will he doing an update video on the truck soon. The neck is in now and will be part of that video.
Just to see if I can. I would think dot would be involved if you build a tank.
Did you pressure test it? If so how did you do it?
We did indeed. It passed with no leaks. I have to say I think that's the first tank I've had zero issues with, but I will take it. Ha.
Schtructure?
Hey bud, is that torque bar smashed in the middle?
TheOnlyDINGUS! I'm not quite sure what you are referring to with "torque bar". Something on the truck I assume? I rewatched and didn't see.
@@HotRodHippie 3:00 the bar right below the pumpkin.
The panhard bar, no it isn't damaged. That is a shadow across it from the pumpkin.
@@HotRodHippie haha ok just wondering
1971 vega gt
Why couldnt a guy weld alluminum with a mig with a spool gun. Or make it outa sheet metal and use a mig?
Someone absolutely could use a spool gun. I just find TIG to be far more controlled and solid, completely fusion is essential when making a fuel cell. Minor mistakes mean fuel leaks and that's clearly dangerous. Someone better with a spool gun may be able to get the job done, personally I'll stick to TIG. It looks nicer when finished also, clearly less important but it does matter when I'm being paid for a job.
Mig welding aluminum causes it to look like a wad of chewed up gum.
20TheGame09 only from people who don’t know what they’re doing bud.
I can send you pics of an 1800 gallon stainless tank tested with 15,000 pounds of water that says you don’t a have to purge stainless.
Send me that same tank in a couple of years. It isn’t an instant failure situation. It is that the coking and metallurgy changes on the backside of the weld will lead to corrosion eventually. And when someone is investing the time and effort into building something from stainless, they are usually doing so to avoid corrosion. In industrial applications they weigh the cost of doing it via purge, etc, vs the cost of redoing the job down the line. I’ve met plenty of commercial welders who worked in situations where it was just expected they’d be redoing a project again in a few years. And in the long run that was just a cost of business.
Going to be tough there at airports all over the country
You don't have to purge Stainless unless it is food grade and Sugar passes Xray. Aluminum however you need a High Freq. welding setup with water cooled torch, Stainless you don't.
You should always backpurge stainless. If you don't it will corrode completely defeating the purpose of using stainless. We had a stainless tank at the shop recently where all of the welds were rusty because of poor gas coverage and lack of back purging. I've seen stainless headers break in the corroded areas where they weren't back purged.
Water cooled torches are a nice to have but not needed for any materials. I welded this entire tank air-cooled and had zero hot hand issues.
Too much roll on the welds dude
ewmism think I needed to step down a filler size? Goal was penetration with a fully filled weld. It is an unseen component under the truck so weld aesthetic wasn't the primary goal. I'm not an amazing aluminum welder so I'm always looking it improve. Any input is appreciated.
Yes or you can increase weld speed and amperage. Your large flange was good I don't know about the small.. It's an art, keep at it..
ewmism constructive input is always appreciated. Thanks
I feel bad that some new welder is thinking aluminum is eazier to weld then stainless thanks to this video
I specifically didn't say that about Stainless. I said it's harder to Cut, Bend, and Grind. I did NOT say Weld. It does require Back Purging which requires an additional Regulator and Argon tank (or dual regulator). That is a lot of additional expense for someone building one fuel tank and thus why I mentioned it.
I approached this as an introduction for a DIY crowd. To someone in that situation they likely don't have a Brake, Shear, or Welding setup to properly produce a Stainless Steel tank. Heck when I made this video I didn't have the tools on hand to do it. I've built stainless tanks before but wasn't in a position to make this one out of it.
@@HotRodHippie oh nah i think you did an amazing job lol just that part was bad keep up the good work man
@@HotRodHippie for you normal welder welding stainless is probably cheaper tho considering aluminum is a full new learning experience and most even experienced welders take some time to learn it.
He's welding three, oh, oh, three?
More like three, zero, zero, three.
And putting the pick up in a "designed in" low spot on a primary tank and having it feed to a smaller secondary tank "one gallon sized" with the main high pressure fuel pump in the secondary tank that does not need baffles would be better as when the primary tank fuel level is low and the car is parked on a steep slope the fuel can run to one way or the other and the pick up will suck air. That secondary tank will still have enough fuel to start and run the engine long enough to get going or move to flatter ground.
Ah yes we all remember the famous James Bond "double zero seven".
What you are referring to is generally called a surge tank. On most street applications is unnecessary. A well baffled tank will generally maintain fuel around the pump area even on a mild incline. A built in low spot only works if you are willing to sacrifice tank capacity for that mild benefit. In this case the truck will lay frame on the ground, so we were not willing to have a drop sump hanging out below the frame.
Not trying to be a dick but you might want to look up rule number when when placing a gas tank. There is a reason that they don’t put gas tanks between the rear bumper and rear axle anymore. They learned that lesson from the old pinto’s in the 70’s. They have a high probability of catching fire and or exploding in a rear end collisions. Again I am not trying to be a jerk I just don’t want anything bad to happen to you or someone else in the event of an accident.
It was inside the cab of this truck originally. Moving it to that place in the frame is already a huge safety improvement. Not to mention this is a pickup truck, there is a Bed and the back wall of the Cab between the tank and the driver. Plenty of distance and obstructions from a fire.
I get what you are trying to do but Classic Cars and Trucks were not designed for much else. There usually isn't any other locations where a tank CAN be placed. Where else would you recommend it be installed? Saddle tanks are vulnerable to the same problem when being T-boned, and on these trucks the frame rails are too narrow go put it under the cab and between the rails like a modern truck.
Purge weld a stainless tank ??
You don’t know what your talking about!!!!!
I’m sorry what? You don’t think you have to purge weld a stainless tank? Please explain that one, I’m curious as hell as to how you justify that.
@@HotRodHippie there is absolutely no need to back purge a stainless tank during welding. Purging is mainly required for pipe or tube work. It would be pointless to back purge for corner to corner welds such as in a tank as you are suggesting. Yes I’m a qualified fabricator since 1993.
@@thebigw3377 why is it required for tube work but not for sheet work? Stainless steel is stainless steel. The metal sugars up on the backside of the weld exactly the same on a sheet metal corner weld as it does on a tube butt weld. Mock-up a stainless box without the sides, weld the corners, look at the backside of the welds. They WILL exhibit the same “sugaring” (flaky grey slag-like substance) that any stainless gets when exposed to atmosphere while welded. That sugaring is iron being pushed out of the stainless steel and WILL corrode and ruin the benefits of Stainless Steel, thus wasting a customers time and money in the long run.
Does back purging a tank take a LOT of gas? Yep. It’s why aerospace and similar industries weld inside of purge chambers, so they don’t have to keep just venting gas to atmosphere.
Do you not wear a respirator while welding Stainless also?
@@HotRodHippie if your seeing excessive sugaring on the inside of a corner to corner weld then you have other issues. Ive literally fabricated thousands of stainless tanks for oil/gas industry and not one has been back purged. The pipe work attached yes but not the tank as it’s pointless.
Respirator ???
Safety’s for wimps son 👊
Annoying music better without it
This guy looks like he left the Amish life a few years ago
Quite a few years ago. Too many tattoos to be very recent... I am from Pennsylvania... 🤔🤔
disliked- zero welding in this build up.
show some close ups vs. those quick clips scenes. talk to much also.
So in a how to video I shouldn't explain things? There was plenty of welding here. If you expected a "how to weld an aluminum tank" video that would be another video all together. It is too complex of a topic to roll into this one video.
bullshit go stainless
Worst tank design I've ever seen
Worse than stock unbaffled tanks? I’m impressed! I WON!
You’re gonna have to explain what’s so bad about it. Enlighten me please, I’m curious for my own information and that of the numerous fabricators I’ve known to use the exact same overall design.
@@HotRodHippie where the pickup is. there's a reason why oem put a buldge lower in tank where pick up sits doesn't matter how many baffles you put init will still surge
Again worst tank design I've ever seen
Bigbot Hoee have you looked under many vehicles? A sump under the fuel pump module is a thing but most are flat. Such as the EVO 7 you have videos about, there is not bulge under the fuel pump module... When I was a Mitsubishi technician I don’t remember any Mitsus having one. Granted that was 15 years ago when Evo 8/9 were new cars. Having one would be a good idea, gravity working for you Is always good, but doing so would cut down on overall tank capacity in this case. The truck is only 1” off the ground when laid out, so going down with the tank design isn’t a good idea. Most aftermarket tanks for these trucks (and many many other vehicles) are designed very similar to this. So I have to ask, how many tank designs have you seen to say this is the worst one?
@@HotRodHippie you must have been a bad mitsi tech then I've built fuel hangers for the evos with surge tank built init
And they do have a dropped section built into tank and where it holds fuel in a cavity only a 10mm drop in that area and most ranks are like this
You can clearly see this Google images if you don't believe me lol it's a v shape underside but inside that's where the pick up sits
At some point you have to realize that tattoos and odd facial hair are not a personality.
How did you get power to the pump?
Didn't do it until quite a while later, but I used Telfon shoulder washers to insulate some drilled holes, and used simple stainless screws to wire with. I made a short form video about it a while ago: th-cam.com/users/shorts5z-4AZ5tqZw