Very nice job. It's interesting, that you can get sharp cornered, cold rolled steel angle iron over there. In the states, it's all hot rolled and radiused all over except the outside corner. The only sharp cornered stuff available is aluminum. Even that, is only available in smaller cross sections like 1/8" thickness and under.
Awesome 👍 I'm going to use it for a bit and then modify it based on what I don't like about it (I always do this with stuff I make), so before you rush out and buy any steel, you might like to wait for an update on it to see if the changes make sense for you too. This is v1. 0, v2. 0 will be better.... Just a thought
Thank you Ron, I find every time you build something different you seem to pick up a little extra... One day I will be able to make something without having to alter my plans half way through lol 😂
That's the best brake I've seen, yet!! I'd love to have a set of plans for this. It's exactly what I've been needing. Thanks for making this video and being real.
@@QuickBikes Me too but i don't have anywhere to be creative unfortunately so i currently stick to tinkering with whatever i can, like broken electronics, computer and such like for now.
This is by far the best sheet metal brake build I’ve seen, and I’ve watched way too many in preparation of giving it a go myself. Appreciate you sharing.
Like this idea however , if you put a brace bar to stop the centre from flexing towards you as you it will stabilise the moving angle price and give a better fold
Excellent design for the work bench, hope my Yank comments were'nt too offensive, nice job , may very well build a version of this for my little shop, very nice.
Very nice job I have been using pro brakes for 30 + years in the airline industry. this is the best homemade one I've seen in appearance and functionality..Fine craftsmanship On a funny note at time 30:30 in your video I like how the brake took a bite out of your sweat shirt.
Enjoyed watching this build it works great for a first try. Looking at the horizontal cross member bending slightly like you mention. You could just reinforce it or put some extra long removable bolts through to the table to shorten the span. Put them in where required to suit your work piece width etc. Nice job. Tony
Thsnk you matey. I've come up with a few improvements again, so I'm.prpbably going.to be making another one. This is alright, but the corners could be sharper and the while hinge bit much stiffer... stay tuned hey 😁👍
Nice design and build. However, when you build such things, some time it takes a few versions to get exactly what you want. The fact that your first bent had a large radius means you need a lot more support on the finger section. Maybe weld some really thick metal section on the ends so you can bolt the front section (the finger section) down forward of the pivot. That way it supports the fingers without giving so much. Usually the fingers are positioned straight down on the bent itself so they don't give as much. However, I still think you did a great project. Just needs a few changes/upgrades to make it perfect. Thumbs Up!
Here's Gary, I know what you mean and it will get tweeked in time. On 1.5mm steel I can get a radius of about 3mm, I think 2mm is too much for it. Great comment though and thanks for your thoughts. I think you're onto something there 👍👍
Yeah I spotted that too... The gussets I was going to put in the back of the clamping would have helped stop that but I didn't put them in thinking it would be strong enough... I think I'll be putting them in over the weekend...
I see more of a tortional flex across the top bar. I think I'd reinforce and move father from center the bolts that are clamping the work. Another thing I've found helpful is working nearest one side. Sweet build!
There was another suggestion to put a truss on the top which I may end up doing. Once I've used it in anger and figured out how I want to modify it, there will be a follow up video showing the mods. Very helpful comments, thank you 👍👍
To avoid a radius, the finger points need to be a material thickness back from the jaw gap or alternatively the moving jaw needs to be set a thickness below that of the static jaw.
Great project.Maybe a guy eliminates that hinge on the finger brake plate,it doesnt need to rock it just needs to be able to be lifted to fit material.So weld a piece of DOM round heavy wall material to the base.The find a piece of DOM that slides into the larger DOM,the small DOM is welded to the finger brake a bolt slides through the sleeved material and tighten down just like you are doing.This heavy wall ridgid material will not flex much and hold the top piece more sturdy...and get more consistent bends. Just a thought.
That's not a bad idea either... There's loads of great suggestions, so do you mind if I stick this idea to one side and maybe try it out when I do the modifications later?
Agree with this comment. I can’t quite see what point is flexing, but I suspect having the pivot axis of the clamp so close to sheet grip point (for and aft) means it doesn’t need much torque to ‘rotate’. If you moved the pivot point further into the bench, you’d be much stiffer! Other than that, it’s probably the best build of a brake I’ve seen. Really nice job and will be stealing it for my own!
if you weld another angle to the bottom of the fingers it will add a secondary point of contact and hold the sheet metal flat so you can get a true 45* bent it must be facing down though
Just what I thought that unit is just hench! Your making a beginner want to go out to my garage and do stuff! Quicky your a natural at this youtube, really enjoying your clips lad !
Have a go matey, why not? I'm glad folks like you are enjoying what we get up to as it's a lot of fun for us and the comments are really inspiring to do better. Thanks for chipping in fella 👍
Brace the top of the fixed finger holding platten with a truss and also weld in some flat bar in the back of the hinged folding platten so its like a triangular tube. Nice video.
Great video, hope you can do up drawings for it? Can see workers with the kit you used/ own making there own. I bet the £480 ish one is no were near as strong 💪💪as this. Just kicking numbers round a £500 bought one is about right😱 skilled workers overheads n bits!! Always seem to be £500 ish a day. Let alone London prices.
It's worth having a go at making this kinda stuff I think, and if it doesn't work out you haven't exactly lost a fortune... It will get revised with use I'm sure 👍
Great vid Quicky! Just found your site and looking forward to seeing what else you're doing! You mentioned scribes over Sharpees and I totally agree, though some of your audience feels differently! I find Sharpees are ok at times to replace using Dykem Blue for coloring the material and then scribe my lines on the blackened area. The contrast is quite good and makes the fine line easy to see. Maybe I've been in close tolerance work too long, but I find it doesn't take any longer to get a great job than an ok job. A little commitment and discipline makes the difference. Cheers!
Thanks for joining us Patrick 👍 Somewhere I've got a big thick square sharpie which I use instead of blue, then scribe a line on that. Works. A treat and I totally agree it doesn't really take any longer to get it spot on if you're careful 👍👍
Well done, been wanting one of these myself, just can't justify the cost. Just a suggestion, countersink the mounting screws on the front edge where it is screwed to the bench. They're keeping the bender from opening all the way. Hope you don't mind, but I'll be following your plans to build my own!
Hiya and thanks for the comment, much appreciated 👍 There's going to be another video covering how I change this design to just be better. The idea is that I reckon I could build a better version for about £70 which is much more affordable if you have the means to build it. You may end up with one yet matey 👍😊
Se os parafusos frontais forem rebaixados, a área útil de dobradura será reduzida, limitando a confecção de gavetas por exemplo. Acho que o problema está nos parafusos laterais, que não tem pressão suficiente para prender as chapas. (If the front screws are lowered, the useful folding area will be reduced, limiting the making of drawers for example. I think the problem is with the side screws, which do not have enough pressure to hold the plates.).
Very nicely constructed, I particularly liked how you made the brake fingers, very neat indeed! I agree that the price of basic folders is really quite high for what they are, and most don't have the various sized fingers! Subscribed. Finding need for a small brake I found a Katsu 3 in 1 Metal Forming Machine which has a set of rollers, a box and pan brake and a shear built into one compact unit, mine being the 305mm (1foot) version. I couldn't have bought a set of rollers, a box and pan brake and a shear of this size for what I paid for the 3 in 1 machine (£200 delivered). The 3 in 1 machine occupies quite a small space which was a requirement in a small workspace.
I really like the sound of that... I'm currently working on Brenda the Bender version 2 and CADDINGTON it so I can put a set of plans up. Should put this one to shame and be WAAAYYYY better. Thanks for watching and chipping in 😁👍
Hi paul . Great video . Best one I have seen yet. Like the way you can change the blades to the size you require . I need to make one and this will be it . So yea a drawing would be great . Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I was thinking of doing that as well... The idea is to use it in anger, see what needs changing and then do a follow up video of any modification it needs. Good suggestion Calvin, thank you
Weld handles on the nuts so your not looking for a socket all the time and put an angle gauge on one side , you can buy them or just glue a protractor on there and tack a needle to the bit you flip up I would also brace between the handles as its the weakest point AND the point most used, gunsmith blacksmith by the way , dam fine work there m8 i wish i had a use for one excellent project .
Thanks for your thoughts and most of that will be covered in the next video. Basically I wanted to use it in anger for a bit to find the weak points, then figure out what to change. Great comment and thanks for chipping in 👍
I was wondering if you could adjust the radius and then you said about the adjusters you are going to mod in. Well done excellent build. Lovin the Quick Bender 🤣🤣🤣
Thank you Arthur 😁👍 I think it was 6mm but I'm in the process of getting some plans together for folks to copy if they want to. I'll post an update when I've uploaded them. If I was making a much longer version, I'd go for much a much heavier design with vertical blades and a piano hinge style platen as this would definitely flex more with length... Thanks for watching 😁👍
It's a Draper 34023 mill. It's OK for small stuff but to be fair a big bed and a DRO would make a massive difference. Hope that helps and thanks for chipping in and watching 😁👍
Good design and very clean machining, but again the large radius on your bend makes it difficult to weld the corners of a tray. I wish someone would come up with a DIY pan brake that makes an excellent sharp corner bend. As you stated, the Pan Brakes are so damn expensive whats an up and coming fabricator to do?
Thank you matey. I have a few tweeks in mind based on the comments that people have left, so there will be a follow up video before long to. Show how I change it. On 1mm steel I get a really sharp corner but on thicker stuff the flex means the radius increases. I'm determined to get it better as for the cost of building it, something like this is worth having a go at... Thanks for commenting 👍
10:00 what I do is use the sharpie for a general background color and then use my scribe on top of the sharpie mark, makes it so much easier to see the scribe mark in low light or very bright times.
It's alright, but I've already thought of some more improvements that could be made so I'm remaking it at some point. It could be stiffer in the hinge as could the clamping, but for fairly thin routine stuff it works a treat 😁👍
I did see some flexing going on. It seems the blades moved up, shouldn't they stay in one place? The weak spot I think is where the top bolts to the bottom. That area needs to be supported better. All in all it looks like a great build and something I would love to duplicate myself. It was Martha Stewart who said everything can be made differently she just seems to be able to make things better for her, not for everyone. If she didn't say that maybe she should? Was the purpose of the blades being different sizes so you could make a box? I would love to see how that is done with this?
Thanks for chipping in and you're right, there is a bit of flexing going on. I've already done a second video of bracing it up, but I'm probably going to make a better /stiffer version using I beam for the blades... just working it out in CAD a the minute to see if its going to work 😁👍
The clamping blade should be adjustable if you intend folding different thickness material. The clamp should be one and a half times the material thickness from the folding blade. This is to allow for the increase in material thickness on the inside of the bend when it is folded. Apart from that well done.
Cheers Gareth. The mill is a rubbish Draper one and I wouldn't recommend it if you want to get precision parts unless you're willing to put a DRO on it as well. It's only really any good for small parts as the bed doesn't have much travel either....
about the steel being too high for the bandsaw : cant you clamp it in laying flat ? as for straightening the blade along the top : would take a bit more work but you could weld a narrow strip over the top and machine it straight and have the blade bump against it , should prevent them creeping up when you bend the material too as for alowing tighter bends you could make blades that are slightly longer and use longer bolts holding it down , that should move the working ends of the blades closer to the bender maibe on the next one you could make two rows of mounting slots and two pairs of holes on the blades so you can set it up 4 ways (bottom hole bottom slot / top hole top slot / bottom hole top slot etc i think that if you measure it out right you should be ab;r to make it in such a way that you have presets for the 4 mostly used material thicknesses
Some great suggestions there and I may well have a crack at some of them... I've just done an update to the bender which is now up on the Tube, but I like the sound of some of the above. It's going to get changed and improved over time and hopefully I'll end up with something that's REALLY good, but for now this will do the job :-)
@@QuickBikes Quickie, that would be much appreciated by a few viewers. I reckon mate. Haven't seen one around as good as what you have come up with. A rough dimensioned sketch is ok , no need to go to too much trouble as if you can't read rough working drawings I don't reckon you could make one. Cheers from Down Under.
This is a really good video and design is very smart pal. I'm not sure if you've improved on it since this video as i've just discovered your channel now. If I may make a suggestion - 1. a second bolt forward of the rear one used for joining the top piece to the main frame... 2. A welding a nut on the topside of the frame base where you are torquing down the plates might overcome (in my head, before a coffee) the flex you can see happening under load? Cheers pal, new subscriber now! Gyp
Thanks for the comments and the kind words, it's very much appreciated 👍 I've got a few improvements lined up to take out the flew in the platen and will be tackling them once I've finished the current project 👍
Cheers Rob. Plans etc will be added at some point as I wanted to use it in anger for a bit, figure out what needed changing and make the changes before making them available. Hope this is OK, but part 2 will follow 👍
Hehehe... I know what you mean, but I'm 'trying' to do a good job 😂 I got it down to about a 3mm radius bend in the end after a bit of mucking around with it... 👍
I know what you mean as my eyesight isn't awesome lol. It's just my opinion at the end of the day and each to their own. I just like the fact it doesn't get rubbed off as well. Thanks for the comment 👍
I was going to but there didn't seem to be much point really... Once I get the hinge sorted with something much more exact, I may need to add it, but not just yet
I love the design, but at 2mm, it is bending not breaking the metal. The Shop fox weighs 100 pounds, and breaks 20 gauge. That is .8 mm material at the max. 2 mm is a titanic 6 times stronger and 15 times stiffer. Not happening.
That's impressive... For my needs this will do... I'm adding some more bracing to try and reduce the bend radius a little more, but it does the job I need. I don't really mind if it's bending not breaking the metal, as long as its a tight bend radius. Thanks for the comparison though, it's a really good insight 👍
1.2mm sheet gives a really nice tight bend, but any more than that and the plates start to flex a but and the radius increases. This will get sorted in the bear future once I modify the brake
Great looking project - great finish But it took a Couple of grand worth of mill, powered hand saw, band saw and welder and a few dozen of your hours to save 400 quid on a pan brake….lol
Thank you 👍 If you do a search on eBay for 'angle grinder flexible backing pad', you'll find the kind of thing I use... I did get two from ebay and they both just exploded as soon as I turned it on, so I went to Machine Mart just up the road and bought their medium stiffness one and an interference backing pad for it. Seems to work quite well I think. Hope that helps 👍
The milling machine definitely helped even though it's a rubbish one... The tough bit I guess would be doing the blades and they could be done with a grinder and file I guess, but it would take a good deal longer than just 2 days. I'd be interested to see if you have a go and if it works out for you and I'm sure there's a few other subscribers in the same boat... Let us know how you get on if you have a go at making one Matt 👍
Очень понравились рассуждения и пояснения, хотя автоперевод мне весь мозг выел )))
Благодарю всех мастеров за то что делитесь опытом и идеями.
Very nice job. It's interesting, that you can get sharp cornered, cold rolled steel angle iron over there. In the states, it's all hot rolled and radiused all over except the outside corner. The only sharp cornered stuff available is aluminum. Even that, is only available in smaller cross sections like 1/8" thickness and under.
I never knew that....!!
I thought the same stuff was available everywhere!!
Shows what I know then doesn't it 😂👍
Dave Lee I like the work
Excellent job I have always wanted one but could not justify or afford to purchase one for the small jobs I do. This I can do! So thanks!
Awesome 👍
I'm going to use it for a bit and then modify it based on what I don't like about it (I always do this with stuff I make), so before you rush out and buy any steel, you might like to wait for an update on it to see if the changes make sense for you too. This is v1. 0, v2. 0 will be better.... Just a thought
@@QuickBikes Look forward V.2 I'll wait. Thanks
Excellent content, great job.
You have demonstrated some true craftsmanship, unlike other channels that just replace parts for looks.
Thank you Ron, I find every time you build something different you seem to pick up a little extra... One day I will be able to make something without having to alter my plans half way through lol 😂
That's the best brake I've seen, yet!! I'd love to have a set of plans for this. It's exactly what I've been needing. Thanks for making this video and being real.
Very nice!! For interested folks, fascinating. For most people they can't wrap their pea brains around your processes!
Nice bit of work mate, that's how you should do it it and not buy stuff when there's no need. Great work!!
Cheers, I just like making stuff 😊
@@QuickBikes Me too but i don't have anywhere to be creative unfortunately so i currently stick to tinkering with whatever i can, like broken electronics, computer and such like for now.
See, I really like that... Tinkering is good on anything as you can learn sooooo much, and I like the idea of just having a go... Nice one matey 👍
Fantastic! Now I just need a milling machine....... Ahhh someday! Nice job man!
Thank you dude, much appreciated 😁👍
Awesome build, just wish I had a mill. I don't think I've ever seen anybody show making a homemade box brake. Thanks for posting this on TH-cam.
This is by far the best sheet metal brake build I’ve seen, and I’ve watched way too many in preparation of giving it a go myself. Appreciate you sharing.
Thank you, much appreciated. I hope yours turns out good as they're dead handy bits of kit 😁👍
Like this idea however , if you put a brace bar to stop the centre from flexing towards you as you it will stabilise the moving angle price and give a better fold
Excellent design for the work bench, hope my Yank comments were'nt too offensive, nice job , may very well build a version of this for my little shop, very nice.
Hehehe... no worries matey, thanks for watching 👍
Very nice job I have been using pro brakes for 30 + years in the airline industry. this is the best homemade one I've seen in appearance and functionality..Fine craftsmanship On a funny note at time 30:30 in your video I like how the brake took a bite out of your sweat shirt.
Enjoyed watching this build it works great for a first try. Looking at the horizontal cross member bending
slightly like you mention. You could just reinforce it or put some extra long removable bolts through to
the table to shorten the span. Put them in where required to suit your work piece width etc. Nice job. Tony
Thsnk you matey. I've come up with a few improvements again, so I'm.prpbably going.to be making another one. This is alright, but the corners could be sharper and the while hinge bit much stiffer... stay tuned hey 😁👍
Nice design and build. However, when you build such things, some time it takes a few versions to get exactly what you want. The fact that your first bent had a large radius means you need a lot more support on the finger section. Maybe weld some really thick metal section on the ends so you can bolt the front section (the finger section) down forward of the pivot. That way it supports the fingers without giving so much. Usually the fingers are positioned straight down on the bent itself so they don't give as much. However, I still think you did a great project. Just needs a few changes/upgrades to make it perfect. Thumbs Up!
Here's Gary, I know what you mean and it will get tweeked in time. On 1.5mm steel I can get a radius of about 3mm, I think 2mm is too much for it. Great comment though and thanks for your thoughts. I think you're onto something there 👍👍
Looks good Quickie don't know if you noticed or not but when your folding there's quite a lot of flex in the clamping bar
Yeah I spotted that too... The gussets I was going to put in the back of the clamping would have helped stop that but I didn't put them in thinking it would be strong enough... I think I'll be putting them in over the weekend...
I see more of a tortional flex across the top bar. I think I'd reinforce and move father from center the bolts that are clamping the work. Another thing I've found helpful is working nearest one side. Sweet build!
There was another suggestion to put a truss on the top which I may end up doing. Once I've used it in anger and figured out how I want to modify it, there will be a follow up video showing the mods.
Very helpful comments, thank you 👍👍
To avoid a radius, the finger points need to be a material thickness back from the jaw gap or alternatively the moving jaw needs to be set a thickness below that of the static jaw.
Good box and pan brake be nice to have a set of build plans
Great project.Maybe a guy eliminates that hinge on the finger brake plate,it doesnt need to rock it just needs to be able to be lifted to fit material.So weld a piece of DOM round heavy wall material to the base.The find a piece of DOM that slides into the larger DOM,the small DOM is welded to the finger brake a bolt slides through the sleeved material and tighten down just like you are doing.This heavy wall ridgid material will not flex much and hold the top piece more sturdy...and get more consistent bends. Just a thought.
That's not a bad idea either... There's loads of great suggestions, so do you mind if I stick this idea to one side and maybe try it out when I do the modifications later?
@@QuickBikes Heck no I dont mind,go for let us know if its an improvement....happy building.
Nice one Quicky lot of work in that video.
Thanks Paul, it was fun to do though... 👍
Job well done, one opportunity for improvement could be a set of stiffer the pivotal angle line to give tighter bends
Yup, good idea. I'm going to use it. In anger for a bit and decide what improvements are needed
Agree with this comment. I can’t quite see what point is flexing, but I suspect having the pivot axis of the clamp so close to sheet grip point (for and aft) means it doesn’t need much torque to ‘rotate’. If you moved the pivot point further into the bench, you’d be much stiffer! Other than that, it’s probably the best build of a brake I’ve seen. Really nice job and will be stealing it for my own!
That is brilliant. It will be a real time save, that would cost a fortune to buy.
Thanks Michael, we'll see how it goes later on, but I'm quite confident 👍
if you weld another angle to the bottom of the fingers it will add a secondary point of contact and hold the sheet metal flat so you can get a true 45* bent it must be facing down though
Trouble is I need the blades to be separate so I can move them where needed....
Love it, best budget build pan break on the tubes and I've been looking at as many pan breaks designs as I can find.
Thanks for sharing monner ;)
Noe worries and thanks for watching 😁👍
The best and the simplest one yet.Thanks mate love a set of plans good on ya
Thank you Jim. I'm working on the plans now 😁👍
Awesome work quicky great channel keep up the fantastic work mate 👍👍👍👍
Thank you Colin 👍
I like your design. It will fit the material thickness i will be working with. 1mm.
Thank you matey. I'm goingbto be making and improved one at some point as I'm having a shuffle round in the shop 🤔😁
Thanks for watching matey 👍
@@QuickBikes I think i will wait then until i watch your revision.
I will be curios about your changes and results.
Thanks for your effort AND reply!
No worries matey 👍
Just what I thought that unit is just hench! Your making a beginner want to go out to my garage and do stuff! Quicky your a natural at this youtube, really enjoying your clips lad !
Have a go matey, why not?
I'm glad folks like you are enjoying what we get up to as it's a lot of fun for us and the comments are really inspiring to do better.
Thanks for chipping in fella 👍
Brace the top of the fixed finger holding platten with a truss and also weld in some flat bar in the back of the hinged folding platten so its like a triangular tube. Nice video.
These are exactly the things I plan on doing for part 2. Should help no end 👍.
Thanks for the comment
Great job ! And I’m only saying that, based on the other comments, because I haven’t a pissing clue about this stuff. 🧐
Hehehe he..... Best comment yet👍😂
Great video, hope you can do up drawings for it? Can see workers with the kit you used/ own making there own. I bet the £480 ish one is no were near as strong 💪💪as this.
Just kicking numbers round a £500 bought one is about right😱 skilled workers overheads n bits!! Always seem to be £500 ish a day. Let alone London prices.
It's worth having a go at making this kinda stuff I think, and if it doesn't work out you haven't exactly lost a fortune... It will get revised with use I'm sure 👍
Great vid Quicky! Just found your site and looking forward to seeing what else you're doing! You mentioned scribes over Sharpees and I totally agree, though some of your audience feels differently! I find Sharpees are ok at times to replace using Dykem Blue for coloring the material and then scribe my lines on the blackened area. The contrast is quite good and makes the fine line easy to see. Maybe I've been in close tolerance work too long, but I find it doesn't take any longer to get a great job than an ok job. A little commitment and discipline makes the difference.
Cheers!
Thanks for joining us Patrick 👍
Somewhere I've got a big thick square sharpie which I use instead of blue, then scribe a line on that. Works. A treat and I totally agree it doesn't really take any longer to get it spot on if you're careful 👍👍
Well done, been wanting one of these myself, just can't justify the cost. Just a suggestion, countersink the mounting screws on the front edge where it is screwed to the bench. They're keeping the bender from opening all the way. Hope you don't mind, but I'll be following your plans to build my own!
Hiya and thanks for the comment, much appreciated 👍
There's going to be another video covering how I change this design to just be better. The idea is that I reckon I could build a better version for about £70 which is much more affordable if you have the means to build it. You may end up with one yet matey 👍😊
Se os parafusos frontais forem rebaixados, a área útil de dobradura será reduzida, limitando a confecção de gavetas por exemplo. Acho que o problema está nos parafusos laterais, que não tem pressão suficiente para prender as chapas. (If the front screws are lowered, the useful folding area will be reduced, limiting the making of drawers for example. I think the problem is with the side screws, which do not have enough pressure to hold the plates.).
Great job indeed.
Thank you dude 😁
Very nicely constructed, I particularly liked how you made the brake fingers, very neat indeed!
I agree that the price of basic folders is really quite high for what they are, and most don't have the various sized fingers! Subscribed.
Finding need for a small brake I found a Katsu 3 in 1 Metal Forming Machine which has a set of rollers, a box and pan brake and a shear built into one compact unit, mine being the 305mm (1foot) version.
I couldn't have bought a set of rollers, a box and pan brake and a shear of this size for what I paid for the 3 in 1 machine (£200 delivered).
The 3 in 1 machine occupies quite a small space which was a requirement in a small workspace.
I really like the sound of that... I'm currently working on Brenda the Bender version 2 and CADDINGTON it so I can put a set of plans up. Should put this one to shame and be WAAAYYYY better. Thanks for watching and chipping in 😁👍
Top notch job chap... great skills.!
Thank you Andy 😊
It still needs to be tweeked a bit now I've used it in anger so a follow up video will be out soon
Hi paul . Great video . Best one I have seen yet. Like the way you can change the blades to the size you require . I need to make one and this will be it . So yea a drawing would be great . Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Nice informative episode with a quality result,,job well done
Thank you Paul, it turned out really good :-)
Really enjoyed that.
Good 😊
Awesome. Ish from South Africa
A truss across the top section will help make tighter bends, otherwise fantastic build! Keep it up
I was thinking of doing that as well... The idea is to use it in anger, see what needs changing and then do a follow up video of any modification it needs. Good suggestion Calvin, thank you
REALLY NICE
Thank you 😁
Weld handles on the nuts so your not looking for a socket all the time and put an angle gauge on one side , you can buy them or just glue a protractor on there and tack a needle to the bit you flip up I would also brace between the handles as its the weakest point AND the point most used, gunsmith blacksmith by the way , dam fine work there m8 i wish i had a use for one excellent project .
Thanks for your thoughts and most of that will be covered in the next video. Basically I wanted to use it in anger for a bit to find the weak points, then figure out what to change. Great comment and thanks for chipping in 👍
I was wondering if you could adjust the radius and then you said about the adjusters you are going to mod in. Well done excellent build. Lovin the Quick Bender 🤣🤣🤣
Thanks 😊
It'll get fettled the same as everything else in the workshop, so this ia kinda v1
Would you be able to provide me with a parts list and any updated changes to make if you have any? Great video!
I would, but unfortunately I don't have one and I'm.gking to be completely remaking it differently as I've thought of some improvements.
I wonder how much your one would cost if you added labour... But I am quite keen to build one myself very nice machine!
Do it.... just do it..... waaaaay better when you make it yourself and it ain't that hard 😁👍
Best of luck matey 👍
Nice one!
Cheers 👍
Another informative video. 👍
Good work.
Thanks Garry 😊
Your vids are worth a comment or two, good to watch, great for info.
There’s so much rubbish stuff out there on TH-cam. Keep up the good work. Garry.
I'm very glad you like them Garry and agree with you about rubbish on TH-cam... Hopefully we stay in the useful or at least entertaining camp lol 👍
Me too mate. 👍🤞😬
That’s terrific thanks
Hi really like the that was really interesting to watch looking really good like how it works so good keep up the great work
Cheers Andrew, it's not bad for a knock up!
fascinating video...i appreciate so much the skills of folk that i know i could never learn...brilliant stuff.
Give it a go, you may well surprise yourself 😊
Great video, and from the UK too!
Hehehe... There's a few good uns from the UK!! 😂🤣😅
Exactly - thanks
I like the idea, can be added to conventional brake, then you have hell of a brake.
It works really well, but I'm going to add some more bracing to stiffen it up a little more 😁👍
I like the way you explain your process. What gauge steel can it do. Also can it work for a 6ft long brake. Or 4 ft
Thank you Arthur 😁👍
I think it was 6mm but I'm in the process of getting some plans together for folks to copy if they want to. I'll post an update when I've uploaded them. If I was making a much longer version, I'd go for much a much heavier design with vertical blades and a piano hinge style platen as this would definitely flex more with length... Thanks for watching 😁👍
very nice - - what brand table top mill are you using? please provide link
thanks
It's a Draper 34023 mill. It's OK for small stuff but to be fair a big bed and a DRO would make a massive difference. Hope that helps and thanks for chipping in and watching 😁👍
Good design and very clean machining, but again the large radius on your bend makes it difficult to weld the corners of a tray. I wish someone would come up with a DIY pan brake that makes an excellent sharp corner bend. As you stated, the Pan Brakes are so damn expensive whats an up and coming fabricator to do?
Thank you matey. I have a few tweeks in mind based on the comments that people have left, so there will be a follow up video before long to. Show how I change it. On 1mm steel I get a really sharp corner but on thicker stuff the flex means the radius increases. I'm determined to get it better as for the cost of building it, something like this is worth having a go at... Thanks for commenting 👍
10:00 what I do is use the sharpie for a general background color and then use my scribe on top of the sharpie mark, makes it so much easier to see the scribe mark in low light or very bright times.
Yes... I like your thinking and it's something I now do quite often. Very easy to see. Good comment, thank you 😁👍
Kudos dude!!!
Cheers 😁 👍
@@QuickBikes
Do you have gizmo to construct die wheels upper and lower and a large one not slim to replace after market ones?!
@@QuickBikes
For english wheel for sure
@@QuickBikes
Can you build an english wheel from scratch whith wheel dies?!
I'd just do it all on the lathe if I had to make some new ones and get them case hardened 😁
Thanks for that. Clever build, nicely executed.
Simplemente la excelencia, gracias por compartir tu conocimiento. Saludos cordiales desde Argentina
I will put a handle on it. lol love British humor
Awesome job mate 👍
Thank you dude 😁👍
Great job Quicky. Really well explained. Look forward to you using it on Steve O's bike.
Cheers Dan, it's going to come in handy 👍
How she holding up? Is it adequate for the weekend warrior?
It's alright, but I've already thought of some more improvements that could be made so I'm remaking it at some point. It could be stiffer in the hinge as could the clamping, but for fairly thin routine stuff it works a treat 😁👍
A very interesting and informative video realy shows your skills 👍
A masterpiece(and all done without "liquid nails"😉, just brilliant !!) 👍.
Hehehe.... Thank you matey 😁👍
I did see some flexing going on. It seems the blades moved up, shouldn't they stay in one place? The weak spot I think is where the top bolts to the bottom. That area needs to be supported better. All in all it looks like a great build and something I would love to duplicate myself. It was Martha Stewart who said everything can be made differently she just seems to be able to make things better for her, not for everyone. If she didn't say that maybe she should? Was the purpose of the blades being different sizes so you could make a box? I would love to see how that is done with this?
Thanks for chipping in and you're right, there is a bit of flexing going on. I've already done a second video of bracing it up, but I'm probably going to make a better /stiffer version using I beam for the blades... just working it out in CAD a the minute to see if its going to work 😁👍
The clamping blade should be adjustable if you intend folding different thickness material. The clamp should be one and a half times the material thickness from the folding blade. This is to allow for the increase in material thickness on the inside of the bend when it is folded. Apart from that well done.
Thank you Bill, good advise that I will use on v2 👍
A very interesting video, I'm looking forward to seeing you make some parts with it. Also what make/model is your mill and would you recommend it?
Cheers Gareth. The mill is a rubbish Draper one and I wouldn't recommend it if you want to get precision parts unless you're willing to put a DRO on it as well. It's only really any good for small parts as the bed doesn't have much travel either....
@@QuickBikes ok, thank you.
Great video, may give this ago in near future. Good work fella 👍
It's pretty straight forward matey 👍
Good job, good video -enjoy.
Cheers 👍😁
I like your idea but I might be looking to make a press brake with the same blade set you just made
Good idea, you'll get much tighter bends on thicker material with a press brake 👍
Great vid dam bargain if you ask me
Cheers Billy, I could justify buying a shop bought one as they are just sooooooo expensive!?!
about the steel being too high for the bandsaw : cant you clamp it in laying flat ?
as for straightening the blade along the top : would take a bit more work but you could weld a narrow strip over the top and machine it straight and have the blade bump against it , should prevent them creeping up when you bend the material too
as for alowing tighter bends you could make blades that are slightly longer and use longer bolts holding it down , that should move the working ends of the blades closer to the bender
maibe on the next one you could make two rows of mounting slots and two pairs of holes on the blades so you can set it up 4 ways (bottom hole bottom slot / top hole top slot / bottom hole top slot etc
i think that if you measure it out right you should be ab;r to make it in such a way that you have presets for the 4 mostly used material thicknesses
Some great suggestions there and I may well have a crack at some of them... I've just done an update to the bender which is now up on the Tube, but I like the sound of some of the above. It's going to get changed and improved over time and hopefully I'll end up with something that's REALLY good, but for now this will do the job :-)
Yeah, good build... we need drawings so we can all have one. G,day from down under.
Thanks Glenn, I'll get some drawings up once the modifications have been done as there's a few tweeks that are needed to be done
@@QuickBikes Quickie, that would be much appreciated by a few viewers. I reckon mate. Haven't seen one around as good as what you have come up with. A rough dimensioned sketch is ok , no need to go to too much trouble as if you can't read rough working drawings I don't reckon you could make one. Cheers from Down Under.
This is a really good video and design is very smart pal. I'm not sure if you've improved on it since this video as i've just discovered your channel now.
If I may make a suggestion -
1. a second bolt forward of the rear one used for joining the top piece to the main frame...
2. A welding a nut on the topside of the frame base where you are torquing down the plates might overcome (in my head, before a coffee) the flex you can see happening under load?
Cheers pal, new subscriber now!
Gyp
Thanks for the comments and the kind words, it's very much appreciated 👍
I've got a few improvements lined up to take out the flew in the platen and will be tackling them once I've finished the current project 👍
Bloody nice job mate ! Wouldn't mind the detentions if poss, il buy us a pint if ya ever get to west Australia!
Cheers Rob. Plans etc will be added at some point as I wanted to use it in anger for a bit, figure out what needed changing and make the changes before making them available. Hope this is OK, but part 2 will follow 👍
@@QuickBikes cheers mate! And that pint still stands!!
Is there anywhere you’ve posted the plans and or materials list? Awesome job!
“A Sharpie just isn’t accurate enough” said no boilermaker/welder ever!
Hehehe... I know what you mean, but I'm 'trying' to do a good job 😂
I got it down to about a 3mm radius bend in the end after a bit of mucking around with it... 👍
Scriber lines are fine, but really hard to see in some light conditions.
I know what you mean as my eyesight isn't awesome lol. It's just my opinion at the end of the day and each to their own. I just like the fact it doesn't get rubbed off as well. Thanks for the comment 👍
@@tezzrterry7485 that's what sharpies are for. or engineer's blue if you're old school.
I've taken to colouring it in with a sharpie and then scribing a line into it... Best of both worlds lol 👍
Top job quickie! nicely made tool looks the business, will work amazingly on the motorbike build.
Hopefully Shane although plans have now changed again for the undertray... Lol
You'll see in the next video 😁
Did you ever add the adjuster to account for the metal thickness?
I was going to but there didn't seem to be much point really... Once I get the hinge sorted with something much more exact, I may need to add it, but not just yet
Great vid and nice build
Thank you David, and Merry Christmas 👍
Top job , I'm now enlightened oh wise one , thank you 👍
Wise one...!!!
I've never been accused of that before 😂😂😂
I love the design, but at 2mm, it is bending not breaking the metal. The Shop fox weighs 100 pounds, and breaks 20 gauge. That is .8 mm material at the max. 2 mm is a titanic 6 times stronger and 15 times stiffer. Not happening.
That's impressive... For my needs this will do... I'm adding some more bracing to try and reduce the bend radius a little more, but it does the job I need. I don't really mind if it's bending not breaking the metal, as long as its a tight bend radius. Thanks for the comparison though, it's a really good insight 👍
Great video mate discovered your channel a few weeks back and playing catch up now very entertaining and informative.
Cheers and tank you for joining us. I hope you enjoy it 😁👍
Great bit of kit well done mate love a set of plans to build one myself
Love the red shirt! Could use a bit of a patch on the front pocket though.
Hehehe.... perfect for hot days in the workshop 🤣😂
great vid
Cheers Paul
what the thickest material you can bend when its the whole length of your press (all dies in place)?
1.2mm sheet gives a really nice tight bend, but any more than that and the plates start to flex a but and the radius increases. This will get sorted in the bear future once I modify the brake
it’s cold roll or hot rolled. Cold rolled true bar
EXELENTE SALUDOS DESDE MEXICO
Muchas gracias por ver amigo 😁👍
Put a couple of old valve springs under your hold down bolts...
Valve springs... Hadn't thought of that as I've been looking at seat springs...
Great job Quicky! Cheers Doug
Cheers, but it is going to get tweeked a bit to get the bends tighter.... Update video to follow 👍
Great looking project - great finish
But it took a Couple of grand worth of mill, powered hand saw, band saw and welder and a few dozen of your hours to save 400 quid on a pan brake….lol
Well done that man! Cheers for the vids, Great channel.
Thank you TaffRat 👍
Thanks for the great video. Can you tell me what kind of angle grinder discs you use to level and blend your welds?
Thank you 👍
If you do a search on eBay for 'angle grinder flexible backing pad', you'll find the kind of thing I use... I did get two from ebay and they both just exploded as soon as I turned it on, so I went to Machine Mart just up the road and bought their medium stiffness one and an interference backing pad for it. Seems to work quite well I think. Hope that helps 👍
@@QuickBikes Thanks for the reply. So you just use one of those "rubber" backing pads with a resin fiber disc to grind them down?
Yes and I get on really well with it, far better than a flap wheel in my opinion 👍
Ive been wanting one as well, though of buying, too expensive, thought of making, too many specialty tools required to get it as nice as yours.
The milling machine definitely helped even though it's a rubbish one... The tough bit I guess would be doing the blades and they could be done with a grinder and file I guess, but it would take a good deal longer than just 2 days. I'd be interested to see if you have a go and if it works out for you and I'm sure there's a few other subscribers in the same boat... Let us know how you get on if you have a go at making one Matt 👍
Could make someone some beer money with a mill doing that pain in the arse small jobs in the setup. Using grinders and a file would be brutal sadly...
@@lscarlet2475 the mill (although a rubbish cheap one), definitely earnt its keep that day 👍
Great video Quicky loving the work. As for a name what about Brenda the bender 🤣👍👍
I like that.... Brenda it is 👍
Great to watch great skills a credit to you. Ken Robinson.
Thank you Ken