Solid advice and information, thank you. As a chemist I ran many polymerization reactions, none of which smoked. The highest yields were attained when the reactors were acid washed first. A rinse of the iron with vinegar would suffice ; make sure that all pitted surfaces are clean and free of any old seasoning and debris before rinsing with vinegar, then rinse with water.
No, I just poured some in, sloshed it around, and wiped the outside, then rinsed it with water, dried and seasoned. turned out fine.any oil, including saturated fats work fine. I look back to what was done in the 1800s, nobody ran to the store to buy anything, nothing special was used, even in the 60s (I was young), my father would season with bacon drippings, and butter, everything was fine@@Cook-Culture
Another great video! Thanks, Jed! I wish I knew this a year ago or so when I first started seasoning my carbon steel pans. My initial seasoning was a really high heat with lots of smoke. Now I know differently thanks to your videos. My Mineral B carbon steel pan has taken several months to turn black just from cooking with it over time.
I restore vintage pans and initially I seasoned them with grapeseed at 425F for the first few coats but after that they developed black spots even though I thoroughly wiped the excess off. So I lowered the temp to 380-400 instead and it stopped having spots.
this is the most useful info in this thread: giving info on specific temperatures. It was good for Cook Culture to show that hotter isn’t better, but we really need specific info on what is the best temperature to apply the seasoning. The way to be most consistent is to warm on stove and then put in an oven at a specific temp for a specific time. It looks like 380-400 F is best in the oven, for say an hour or so?
@@4tCa4mzUPqRZZo I don't like using avocado oil because it has a smoke point of like 500. I've always had cheap ovens so It was never safe to go that high for that long
Several months ago you gave me some great advice - give my seasoning a few days between seasonings to harden. I had been struggling to get to a stable point. That has worked really well for me, thank you! I've also changed from plain grapeseed oil to a paste w/ grapeseed. I'll admit I'm using Buzzywaxx not yours, shipping from Canada to the US doubles the price.... Maybe next time now that I'm a fan of paste. ;-) Paste seems to work better at getting a thin even coating on than plain oil. I also started using a small counter-top butane burner to perform touch-up seasonings. (my stove is a flat-top electric) The open flame helps get heat up the sides better. My carbon steel cookware now has such a hard seasoning on it that I only do touch-up seasoning maybe 1 in 10 uses. Apparently by accident I have been using the right amount of heat on the butane stove. I typically see about the same level of smoke as you got from the #7, maybe even a bit less. The upshot is, for anyone reading this - listen to Jed, his advice *works*... You can't argue with success!
Thanks, Philip. Good on you for persevering! It takes some effort to learn and you are a great example of trial and error that lead to success. Now you have a lifelong skill!! Jed
The viscosity of oils makes more of a difference in seasoning than I originally thought when I 1st started using cast iron more often. But I have to admit I like the golden brown seasoning I get when I use a beeswax seasoning the 1st few layers. I seem to be able to notice seasoning progress as it darkens,
Thanks for your excellent videos! Here's what I don't understand. Your recommendation for the stovetop seasoning is to just barely bring the pan to the smoke point , but you recommend for the oven seasoning to leave it in a preheated 475° oven for an hour. 475° is well above the smoke point of the oil or paste, so the oil will be smoking until it's unable to smoke any more. What's the difference? Why isn't the recommended method on the stove top to continue to smoke the oil until it stops smoking instead of just getting it to the smoking point and then removing it from the heat while it's still smoking???
Excellent question. It all has to do with the type of heat. Stove top is direct where oven is radiant and the difference is quite drastic. In the 475 degree oven you will (should) not have smoke and the pan should dry and harden over an hour. To mimic this on a stove top you want to use medium heat until you see just a bit of vapor/smoke. I hope that helps.
Wow! Another great video Jed!! This was very helpful, I know it will help a lot of people out here!! Thank you for sharing all this valuable information!! Good on you my friend!!
This is probably why most people see better results with oven seasoning. It keeps temperatures closer to smoke point and seasons more slowly whereas stovetop can easily be overshot in terms of temperatures.
Some people might say it’s that you are using too much oil rather than the difference between the “7” and the “8”. Even well beyond the smoke point you will get relatively little smoke if the layer of oil is thin enough. We know that during cooking we are likely to exceed smoke points of oil like flax that are used successfully by some. But thicker layers pretty unequivocally result in poorer seasoning. Lots of thin layers >>>few thick layers even at an polymer coat that is the same end thickness.
Many thanks for your informative videos! I really enjoy them and am learning a lot from your channel. I think I may be guilty of overheating during initial electric stove top seasoning of a de buyer mineral b carbon steel pan. The grape seed oil blackened quite quickly with plenty of smoke and now some bits of the seasoning come off rather easily when washing with water and a soft nylon brush while other parts of the seasoning adhere strongly. It’s actually quite tricky to get the temp right on my old funky electric stove top. My question: Would you in such cases recommend soldiering on with plenty of cooking and post seasoning or should I try and remove the seasoning and start again? Probably a hard question to answer without seeing the pan but grateful for your consideration. Hey ever thought of starting a pan seasoning hot line? 😃. All the best for your business and your channel, Martin
I've never had that problem as I use the Field method for seasoning. It works for both cast iron and carbon steel and you do it in the oven. If it's done correctly, a few times after initial seasoning, you can cook just about anything.
THIS! Correct to heat just below smoke point! Cowboy Kent says 350. I have found 400 works for grapeseed oil. Otherwise you get charred carbon that makes it brittle, though it also makes it blacker. But it will get black eventually, just more gradually.
I watched your video & it mostly made sense. Can you take a clean carbon steel pan, add seasoning wax in a thin coat then put it on a cold burner turn it on & slowly heat it to just that whisk of smoke & remove it? Would that work?
In theory, yes, but I'd say you will get a better thin layer of wax with a warm cloth and a warm pan. It helps start the process...then heat to just about smoke.
Hey Jed, thanks for the video! I must say this must be one of the best explanations on youtube. I believe at the beginning when you get a new pan and you're new to cast iron or carbon steel, you just want to blacken that pan really quick. There is not patience, period. As time goes by you become more experience and you start trying different methods. What I have been doing for a while is to heat up the pan for 5-6 minutes on a low-medium setting and when I apply my wax, let it smoke for one minute and buff the pan with a paper towel until I cannot see any oil. It worked quite well for me, but now I can see you are actually leaving the oil on the pan. Will this be a better method than buffing the oil off? Also, how much are you cooking that oil? Are you going until it shows dry? Do you apply a final coat of wax before taking it off the stove? Thanks! Mihai
Howdy Mihai! I hope all is well across the pond! I would normally use just a thin amount of paste, like you, but I was trying to replicate how the common user would usually go about seasoning with grapeseed. It can be hard to see the smoke issue when you are doing it the way you are and most people get into trouble when using too high heat. Seasoning with a bit too much oil, and then wiping excess is better than just the right amount and too high heat. I'd say what you are doing is perfect.
Thanks for the video! I have a question about the cleaning iron cookware. Sometimes after cooking food likes salmon or steaks, there are lots of oil inside the skillet. How to clean up most of the oil before scrub the skillet without soup?
As always, I appreciate your vids but more so, your vision. Interesting that you chose to compare the results using a CS vs CI vessel. Were they heated up thoroughly? Meaning was the cast iron heated up long enough? I'd think using 2 CS pans and/or an IR gun would prove your point better. Regardless, I agree wholeheartedly, just reaching smoke point works so much better. I proved that to myself over and over before I found your channel proposing the use of "refined" seed oils and paste waxes.
How long do i keep it at that right spot/temp? So lets say, as you mentioned, im at the right temp, medium, and i start to see just a little smoke, how long do i keep it and let it smoke ?
You can let it sit there for a min or so. At the right temperature, it should just smoke lightly. Reapply the seasoning if it gets too dry. At the end of the process the pan should have a slight sheen
Hi, put a tiny amount of oil in a warm pan. Do not let it really smoke. Just at the smoke point, or just below. You can stay at that temp for a long time
You need to have from 480 to 570f (250 to 300°c ) to have a perfect layer of seasoning. You just need a microlayer of it. Tested myself with a infrared termometer. My favourite oil for seasoning is grapeseed oil , flaxseed oil smells like cat urine... :( EDIT : you should re do with a temp gun , so maybe I could try the same at home to see if I'm wrong about my temps . My temps are easier to achieve on a camp stove
@@Cook-Culture Cause unfortunately cast iron doesn't spread heat as evenly as stamped stainless , so unless you have a special burner or a camp stove it's hard to achieve those temps evenly. A standard stovetop burner is like 1800-2000 watts, not enough for all of it.
Couple questions: I saw you seasoned your Griswold at 450 for an hour but that is above the smoke point of grapeseed oil. What is the reason for that? My wife read some health info on grapeseed oil and is worried about Hexane and PAH from the grapeseed oil. Do you seek out Hexane and PAH free grapeseed oil? I could find hexane free but nothing about PAH. Because of the health questions I have purchased refined avocado oil (against your recommendation but I'm afraid of grapeseed for now). The smoke point for that oil is 500. What temp would you season that at? I'm seasoning a freshly stripped and sanded Lodge Pan.
Let's face it, seasoning is just not something that will stick forever on the pan. If you sear steaks, the oil needs to be high temperature and will burn. Neither carbon steel nor cast iron is really non-stick if seasoned; they are merely "sticks-a-little". So, they shouldn't be marketed as such. And, repeated inhalation of smoke from seasoning pans means more exposure to carcinogens. Better just stop caring about seasoning whatsoever.. To me, my pan gets a little browner every time I fry eggs in the morning. I always use canola oil or canola-fortified butter. The oil burns a little before each use and I never had to reseason any of my pans. The worst thing was stepping back a little in regards to the seasoned surface. But then so what? I always used protective oil so it doesn't rust, and even if there is an unseasoned patch in the middle of the pan - it works exactly like my stainless steel pan, which... I can use properly so it doesn't stick. I don't use my pan to season it, I use it to cook.
I'm not understanding a brittle state. In my case my pan is too sticky from grapeseed oil. It starts smoking and when I put tortilla dough on it they burn and leave a black char. So the spit where the tortilla was needed to be scraped off. I used a scraper to get the black char off of the pan. Now I know I should have used salt to scrub it off. Anyways the other parts of the cast iron griddle is sticky. I almost wanted to use dawn to get some of it off. Can you tell me what I can do to get that sticky layer off and even it out with the spot where the tortilla was burnt on the griddle? Should I heat the pan and then use salt as it cools down?? Help please!?
Nuke it and re-season it! Nuke equals soap, sos pads etc. Then use Crisco at 500 degree oven. But honestly I'm having problems with a sticky part too, wonder if we could use vinegar. The sticky part is probably the seasoning temp was too high for the oil like he said? And also wipe All the oil off because it's cast iron, it's still there.
I think this would be helpful if you did use a thermal probe to identify heat. Not all cooktops are the same. Case in point- how do you define medium high on a gas cooktop? It is quite variable across stoves and different size burners. I know that most ppl don't use those guns but it would help for those, like me who do like to use them.
Hey, thanks for the comments. If you have a gun, then look for the heat point for the oil you are using and go close to that. In the end there will be some variability so a visual estimate is still king
I saw a video of someone saying they don't season their pans cause it becomes carcinogenic. I searched for information about this, but wasn't able to find anything about it. So I am still curious about if this really is true.
Eating overheated oil directly would be bad, but after seasoning my pans come out dry, so I'm not sure how much of the scary compounds would be left. I don't think there is any evidence about the seasoning itself being carcinogenic, only oils when they are overheated. It would be very interesting to see any scientific study of whether these compounds remain after seasoning or not. Maybe Jed's chemist friend could help us understand this? ;) I personally think it is probably safer than trusting that new non-stick technology has no unforeseen long-term health consequences. Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence, after all. I'd be willing to bet most people who are afraid of these risks completely ignore the fact that processed and red meats are recognized carcinogens, too. We humans are a strange bunch.
Any experience with the De Buyer Mineral B Pro? Unlike the standard model, this version is oven safe at higher temperatures. Are you still seasoning on the stove top or seasoning in the oven?
“many minutes” is hardly definitive. “Ideal” polymerization is done at what temperature, how long & how much oil? It takes time for the polymerization to occur. Thin coats are best, always. A lot of oil will be certain to have different thicknesses of oil layer and spotty seasoning coat. Much like paint, thick coat will perform poorly. Infrared temperature sensors are very useful and cost around 30-40 dollars.
Infrared sensors are not that reliable on reflective surfaces and I've struggled to get the exact readings. After selling cookware to thousands of people I've come to realize that most people do best when they learn to use their senses when seasoning. That is why I teach seasoning more like an art form than a science.
@ 2:32 Americans (from the United States) please listen and note the use of "more, better". This is the only proper way to use these two words together. Please learn from a fellow American (the kind from the largest country in North America).
It was a bad choice to not take the temp of the pan. Cheap laser thermometers are cheap and lots of people have them. missed opportunity to provide factual evidence-based information in the video. It would have been so easy to just shoot the pan and take them temp. smh
Solid advice and information, thank you. As a chemist I ran many polymerization reactions, none of which smoked. The highest yields were attained when the reactors were acid washed first. A rinse of the iron with vinegar would suffice ; make sure that all pitted surfaces are clean and free of any old seasoning and debris before rinsing with vinegar, then rinse with water.
Interesting. Did you simmer the vinegar?
No, I just poured some in, sloshed it around, and wiped the outside, then rinsed it with water, dried and seasoned. turned out fine.any oil, including saturated fats work fine. I look back to what was done in the 1800s, nobody ran to the store to buy anything, nothing special was used, even in the 60s (I was young), my father would season with bacon drippings, and butter, everything was fine@@Cook-Culture
Another great video! Thanks, Jed! I wish I knew this a year ago or so when I first started seasoning my carbon steel pans. My initial seasoning was a really high heat with lots of smoke. Now I know differently thanks to your videos. My Mineral B carbon steel pan has taken several months to turn black just from cooking with it over time.
Perfect. Glad you are there now, Geoff. Yes, I wish I knew this years ago. I would open all my doors and windows to season my cookware!
I restore vintage pans and initially I seasoned them with grapeseed at 425F for the first few coats but after that they developed black spots even though I thoroughly wiped the excess off. So I lowered the temp to 380-400 instead and it stopped having spots.
Nice!
this is the most useful info in this thread: giving info on specific temperatures. It was good for Cook Culture to show that hotter isn’t better, but we really need specific info on what is the best temperature to apply the seasoning. The way to be most consistent is to warm on stove and then put in an oven at a specific temp for a specific time. It looks like 380-400 F is best in the oven, for say an hour or so?
@@ytzmark yes for grapeseed and canola. For avacado you have to go alot higher
@@timfehn4637 how high for avocado oil?
@@4tCa4mzUPqRZZo I don't like using avocado oil because it has a smoke point of like 500. I've always had cheap ovens so It was never safe to go that high for that long
Several months ago you gave me some great advice - give my seasoning a few days between seasonings to harden. I had been struggling to get to a stable point. That has worked really well for me, thank you!
I've also changed from plain grapeseed oil to a paste w/ grapeseed. I'll admit I'm using Buzzywaxx not yours, shipping from Canada to the US doubles the price.... Maybe next time now that I'm a fan of paste. ;-) Paste seems to work better at getting a thin even coating on than plain oil.
I also started using a small counter-top butane burner to perform touch-up seasonings. (my stove is a flat-top electric) The open flame helps get heat up the sides better. My carbon steel cookware now has such a hard seasoning on it that I only do touch-up seasoning maybe 1 in 10 uses. Apparently by accident I have been using the right amount of heat on the butane stove. I typically see about the same level of smoke as you got from the #7, maybe even a bit less.
The upshot is, for anyone reading this - listen to Jed, his advice *works*... You can't argue with success!
Thanks, Philip. Good on you for persevering! It takes some effort to learn and you are a great example of trial and error that lead to success. Now you have a lifelong skill!! Jed
The viscosity of oils makes more of a difference in seasoning than I originally thought when I 1st started using cast iron more often. But I have to admit I like the golden brown seasoning I get when I use a beeswax seasoning the 1st few layers. I seem to be able to notice seasoning progress as it darkens,
Thanks for your excellent videos!
Here's what I don't understand. Your recommendation for the stovetop seasoning is to just barely bring the pan to the smoke point , but you recommend for the oven seasoning to leave it in a preheated 475° oven for an hour. 475° is well above the smoke point of the oil or paste, so the oil will be smoking until it's unable to smoke any more. What's the difference? Why isn't the recommended method on the stove top to continue to smoke the oil until it stops smoking instead of just getting it to the smoking point and then removing it from the heat while it's still smoking???
Excellent question. It all has to do with the type of heat. Stove top is direct where oven is radiant and the difference is quite drastic. In the 475 degree oven you will (should) not have smoke and the pan should dry and harden over an hour. To mimic this on a stove top you want to use medium heat until you see just a bit of vapor/smoke. I hope that helps.
Wow! Another great video Jed!! This was very helpful, I know it will help a lot of people out here!! Thank you for sharing all this valuable information!! Good on you my friend!!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks, as always, Rick!
You do great videos . Thanks for all the info you post on your channel .
This is probably why most people see better results with oven seasoning. It keeps temperatures closer to smoke point and seasons more slowly whereas stovetop can easily be overshot in terms of temperatures.
Yes, definitely, but post cooking seasoning is faster on the stove top.
Some people might say it’s that you are using too much oil rather than the difference between the “7” and the “8”. Even well beyond the smoke point you will get relatively little smoke if the layer of oil is thin enough. We know that during cooking we are likely to exceed smoke points of oil like flax that are used successfully by some. But thicker layers pretty unequivocally result in poorer seasoning. Lots of thin layers >>>few thick layers even at an polymer coat that is the same end thickness.
That's why I usually use paste
I have a sticky residue on my cast iron griddle. Can you tell me how to fix this? I need my griddle to heat to 500 without smoking
Great video, very informative. This is relevant specially when you're using the stovetop method. Thanks a lot!
Glad it was helpful!
Many thanks for your informative videos! I really enjoy them and am learning a lot from your channel.
I think I may be guilty of overheating during initial electric stove top seasoning of a de buyer mineral b carbon steel pan. The grape seed oil blackened quite quickly with plenty of smoke and now some bits of the seasoning come off rather easily when washing with water and a soft nylon brush while other parts of the seasoning adhere strongly. It’s actually quite tricky to get the temp right on my old funky electric stove top. My question: Would you in such cases recommend soldiering on with plenty of cooking and post seasoning or should I try and remove the seasoning and start again? Probably a hard question to answer without seeing the pan but grateful for your consideration.
Hey ever thought of starting a pan seasoning hot line? 😃.
All the best for your business and your channel, Martin
I've never had that problem as I use the Field method for seasoning.
It works for both cast iron and carbon steel and you do it in the oven. If it's done correctly, a few times after initial seasoning, you can cook just about anything.
Good stuff
THIS! Correct to heat just below smoke point! Cowboy Kent says 350. I have found 400 works for grapeseed oil. Otherwise you get charred carbon that makes it brittle, though it also makes it blacker. But it will get black eventually, just more gradually.
Thanks for the note! Glad you got it sorted! I like around 400 too.
I watched your video & it mostly made sense. Can you take a clean carbon steel pan, add seasoning wax in a thin coat then put it on a cold burner turn it on & slowly heat it to just that whisk of smoke & remove it? Would that work?
In theory, yes, but I'd say you will get a better thin layer of wax with a warm cloth and a warm pan. It helps start the process...then heat to just about smoke.
Hey Jed, thanks for the video! I must say this must be one of the best explanations on youtube. I believe at the beginning when you get a new pan and you're new to cast iron or carbon steel, you just want to blacken that pan really quick. There is not patience, period. As time goes by you become more experience and you start trying different methods. What I have been doing for a while is to heat up the pan for 5-6 minutes on a low-medium setting and when I apply my wax, let it smoke for one minute and buff the pan with a paper towel until I cannot see any oil. It worked quite well for me, but now I can see you are actually leaving the oil on the pan. Will this be a better method than buffing the oil off? Also, how much are you cooking that oil? Are you going until it shows dry? Do you apply a final coat of wax before taking it off the stove? Thanks! Mihai
Howdy Mihai! I hope all is well across the pond! I would normally use just a thin amount of paste, like you, but I was trying to replicate how the common user would usually go about seasoning with grapeseed. It can be hard to see the smoke issue when you are doing it the way you are and most people get into trouble when using too high heat. Seasoning with a bit too much oil, and then wiping excess is better than just the right amount and too high heat. I'd say what you are doing is perfect.
The more I try to learn about cooking with cast. The more confused I am
Thanks for the video! I have a question about the cleaning iron cookware. Sometimes after cooking food likes salmon or steaks, there are lots of oil inside the skillet. How to clean up most of the oil before scrub the skillet without soup?
Hi, don't be too worried about it. Rinse and wipe, get it back on the stove and cook the residue onto the pan.
As always, I appreciate your vids but more so, your vision. Interesting that you chose to compare the results using a CS vs CI vessel. Were they heated up thoroughly? Meaning was the cast iron heated up long enough? I'd think using 2 CS pans and/or an IR gun would prove your point better. Regardless, I agree wholeheartedly, just reaching smoke point works so much better. I proved that to myself over and over before I found your channel proposing the use of "refined" seed oils and paste waxes.
Thanks. I've learned that IR guns are unreliable on semi and fully shiny surfaces. Glad you enjoyed.
@@Cook-Culture Had no idea. Learned something else from you!
How long do i keep it at that right spot/temp?
So lets say, as you mentioned, im at the right temp, medium, and i start to see just a little smoke, how long do i keep it and let it smoke ?
You can let it sit there for a min or so. At the right temperature, it should just smoke lightly. Reapply the seasoning if it gets too dry. At the end of the process the pan should have a slight sheen
Good video mate as always
Thanks. Glad you liked it
Do you wait until the pan is hot to put the oil in, and how long do you leave on the stove when you reach the smoke point?
Hi, put a tiny amount of oil in a warm pan. Do not let it really smoke. Just at the smoke point, or just below. You can stay at that temp for a long time
Knowing the preferred temperature for the cast iron could still be handy.
Each oil has it's own smoke point so just below or at that temp
when you hit the smoke point and it is smoking mildly, how long do you do this before taking the pan off the burner?
Right away. as soon as you see some smoke, just a little bit, the job is done.
You need to have from 480 to 570f (250 to 300°c ) to have a perfect layer of seasoning.
You just need a microlayer of it.
Tested myself with a infrared termometer.
My favourite oil for seasoning is grapeseed oil , flaxseed oil smells like cat urine... :(
EDIT : you should re do with a temp gun , so maybe I could try the same at home to see if I'm wrong about my temps .
My temps are easier to achieve on a camp stove
Interesting. Why do you think you have better results on a camp stove?
@@Cook-Culture Cause unfortunately cast iron doesn't spread heat as evenly as stamped stainless , so unless you have a special burner or a camp stove it's hard to achieve those temps evenly.
A standard stovetop burner is like 1800-2000 watts, not enough for all of it.
Couple questions: I saw you seasoned your Griswold at 450 for an hour but that is above the smoke point of grapeseed oil. What is the reason for that? My wife read some health info on grapeseed oil and is worried about Hexane and PAH from the grapeseed oil. Do you seek out Hexane and PAH free grapeseed oil? I could find hexane free but nothing about PAH. Because of the health questions I have purchased refined avocado oil (against your recommendation but I'm afraid of grapeseed for now). The smoke point for that oil is 500. What temp would you season that at? I'm seasoning a freshly stripped and sanded Lodge Pan.
Howdy, refined Avo Oil will work great. The oven heat can be higher than the stove top. 400 to 450 works fine
Let's face it, seasoning is just not something that will stick forever on the pan. If you sear steaks, the oil needs to be high temperature and will burn. Neither carbon steel nor cast iron is really non-stick if seasoned; they are merely "sticks-a-little". So, they shouldn't be marketed as such.
And, repeated inhalation of smoke from seasoning pans means more exposure to carcinogens. Better just stop caring about seasoning whatsoever.. To me, my pan gets a little browner every time I fry eggs in the morning. I always use canola oil or canola-fortified butter. The oil burns a little before each use and I never had to reseason any of my pans. The worst thing was stepping back a little in regards to the seasoned surface. But then so what? I always used protective oil so it doesn't rust, and even if there is an unseasoned patch in the middle of the pan - it works exactly like my stainless steel pan, which... I can use properly so it doesn't stick.
I don't use my pan to season it, I use it to cook.
True, I hate the smoke...
Can u make a video on how to season a new preseasoned pan ? Do we need to wash it using soap at first ?
Can you be more specific? Thanks
@@Cook-Culture whether a preseasoned pan needs to be washed with soap , dried and then again seasoned with oil ?
@@booksquotes948 a preseasoned pan is ready to use but you should keep post-seasoning after each use for a while until you have a strong seasoning.
@cook-culture Can this work with cast iron stove grates?
I was wondering why my pan is always making the paper towel I use to remove excess oil or even just wiping after cooking turn brown.
Good on you!
I'm not understanding a brittle state. In my case my pan is too sticky from grapeseed oil. It starts smoking and when I put tortilla dough on it they burn and leave a black char. So the spit where the tortilla was needed to be scraped off. I used a scraper to get the black char off of the pan. Now I know I should have used salt to scrub it off. Anyways the other parts of the cast iron griddle is sticky. I almost wanted to use dawn to get some of it off. Can you tell me what I can do to get that sticky layer off and even it out with the spot where the tortilla was burnt on the griddle? Should I heat the pan and then use salt as it cools down?? Help please!?
Nuke it and re-season it! Nuke equals soap, sos pads etc. Then use Crisco at 500 degree oven. But honestly I'm having problems with a sticky part too, wonder if we could use vinegar. The sticky part is probably the seasoning temp was too high for the oil like he said? And also wipe All the oil off because it's cast iron, it's still there.
Ikea recommends to season their carbon steel at 300 degrees for an hour. It takes longer but seems durable.
Fair, if it works then great!
I think this would be helpful if you did use a thermal probe to identify heat. Not all cooktops are the same. Case in point- how do you define medium high on a gas cooktop? It is quite variable across stoves and different size burners. I know that most ppl don't use those guns but it would help for those, like me who do like to use them.
Hey, thanks for the comments. If you have a gun, then look for the heat point for the oil you are using and go close to that. In the end there will be some variability so a visual estimate is still king
I saw a video of someone saying they don't season their pans cause it becomes carcinogenic. I searched for information about this, but wasn't able to find anything about it. So I am still curious about if this really is true.
Eating overheated oil directly would be bad, but after seasoning my pans come out dry, so I'm not sure how much of the scary compounds would be left. I don't think there is any evidence about the seasoning itself being carcinogenic, only oils when they are overheated. It would be very interesting to see any scientific study of whether these compounds remain after seasoning or not. Maybe Jed's chemist friend could help us understand this? ;)
I personally think it is probably safer than trusting that new non-stick technology has no unforeseen long-term health consequences. Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence, after all.
I'd be willing to bet most people who are afraid of these risks completely ignore the fact that processed and red meats are recognized carcinogens, too. We humans are a strange bunch.
I saw someone say that about flax seed.
Any experience with the De Buyer Mineral B Pro? Unlike the standard model, this version is oven safe at higher temperatures. Are you still seasoning on the stove top or seasoning in the oven?
Hi, yes, loads. We use it and sell it. It's a great choice if you use the oven all the time
Thank you!
You are welcome!
What temperature should I use if I am seasoning my pan wih BuzzyWaxx original in the oven?
I go around 400 to 425, for 1 hour
Do you know the exact temp to not go over?
Each oil has a different smoke point
Once you get to that light smoke point, how long do you keep leave pan at that point before turning heat off.
Great question. I usually leave it on the heat for a min or 2 and then let it cool to room temp.
@@Cook-Culture Thanks for the reply!!!
“many minutes” is hardly definitive. “Ideal” polymerization is done at what temperature, how long & how much oil? It takes time for the polymerization to occur. Thin coats are best, always. A lot of oil will be certain to have different thicknesses of oil layer and spotty seasoning coat. Much like paint, thick coat will perform poorly.
Infrared temperature sensors are very useful and cost around 30-40 dollars.
Infrared sensors are not that reliable on reflective surfaces and I've struggled to get the exact readings. After selling cookware to thousands of people I've come to realize that most people do best when they learn to use their senses when seasoning. That is why I teach seasoning more like an art form than a science.
Well, a temp gun is very cheap on works well, why not having one ?
I think it's essential when doing seasoning.
You have a point but most people don't want to buy one.
@ 2:32 Americans (from the United States) please listen and note the use of "more, better". This is the only proper way to use these two words together. Please learn from a fellow American (the kind from the largest country in North America).
I learned absolutely nothing. I use lard and bake it in.
It was a bad choice to not take the temp of the pan. Cheap laser thermometers are cheap and lots of people have them. missed opportunity to provide factual evidence-based information in the video. It would have been so easy to just shoot the pan and take them temp. smh
Hi, I've learned that infrared thermometers are unreliable