When a Carl Rogers video pops up, it's a moment to stop, slow down and relax to take some time out from the rat race and mentally escape to a slower pace of life. Your videos are little islands of sanctuary in the cess pit of the Internet. Thank you for doing what you do!
I'm a retired shipwright. The secrets to drilling long holes in planks are: 1. Use a barefoot pilot augur with a pre-drilled starter hole. 2. Use a guide to support the bit at least 12 inches beyond the plank edge. 3. Most important! Drill from both ends. That reduces the chances of a 'drift' error by 50%
It won't reduce drift by 50% it reduces it 100%. If you drill from both sides there is no way NOT to have correct orientation of the entry and exit. And you have to be completely ham fisted not to get the holes to line up to the point the second shot will catch the first hole.
I’m gonna offer some unsolicited advice young man, tuck your shirt in and either roll your sleeves up further or wear short sleeves. I’ve been working in a cabinet shop for over 40 years and have been reminded of my loose clothing a few times the hard way. Would hate to see you experience what I have. Your a good craftsman and I enjoy your videos 😉
There is no joy like that of a perfectonist accomplishing his/her goal, unless, maybe that of a viewer watching it happen. Thanks, Carl for another one! BTW, as a retired lamp maker, I have been challenged many times with drilling a hole through tall wooden candlesticks and trying not to bust out the side. Carl's trick of setting up lasers makes so much sense to me.
Great to see young men taking an interest in projects like this one, and the restoration of old buildings. With the buildings it's nice to see the extra effort to make everything look like it did when originally built. Keep up the pride in workmanship, there's a shortage of that nowadays.
Karl you should have drilled the widest potholes first. That way you still use the center spike on the forstner bits to prevent the drill from wandering. Then you drill a pilot hole through a square (!) block on the drill press. The pilot hole should be no wider then the centerspike of the bradpoint drill you'll use next. The block and pilot drill can then be centered in the spike divots of the potholes. Drill until halfway from both sides (lesschance of wandering!) Then follow the pilot hole with a bradpoint all the way through. This is the standard way for long hole drilling in wood to prevent getting off course. Cheers, Dick
I love the fact that you don't skip from step-to-step but actually show the detail. I still wish you wouldn't wear a loose shirt around saw blades and drill-bits. :)
Ya know Carl, I simply gotta say you obviously bring something special to many people around the world. You're a pretty exceptional guy. You work at things and fail. But, you're at it again with determination learning from the frustration. What's so cool is you're able make us laugh with you at your mistakes. That's a special gift. Ya try. Ya fail. Ya try again and again to succeed. As was said in another' thread you bring hope to a cesspool that can be the internet. It's people like you that convince me we're gonna make it. Thank you Carl for trying to be better! And to make all of us want to be better.
You have a frickin great voice/demeanor for this. It takes me back to the days of the OG "This Old House" with a touch of Bob Ross. Keep it up. Loving the content and the story of this build.
In the states, over here in the Napa Valley, my family has been growing grapes and producing wine on our historical property in Saint Helena, CA. Since 1932
You can make a drill bushing for alignment by drilling on the drill press, relatively thin pieces to be glued together stacking them to the desired height on a removable alignment pin! Works like a charm! Wondering why you didn’t cut the large timbers on the angle from the get go? You could have planed them into specification Keep up the good work! JIM ❤
I do enjoy the practicality you show in everything you do. You truly have the eyes of a craftsman and always seem to find solutions to the problems you are facing. Your vlog are one of my top three, that I enjoy the most and are one that I really look foreward to new episodes from. All the best!
That was a precision engineering task You did very well Note No lose clothing Safety first you where luck to only cut the finger Very satisfying result Can’t wait for next week 👍👍👍👍
22 minutes to drill a couple holes, and I still had to watch to the whole thing. This is a masterpiece in the making. Perhaps even more than the staircase, and I didn't think that could be beat.
It's always worth waiting for your videos... you share the entire process, the mistakes and even your injuries... your voice conveys an enviable calm and serenity :) ... accept a hug from Lisbon
Great project and thanks for sharing! These days I produce alignment and drill guides with a 3d printer. Very flexible method with precise results and with modern fast printers like the Bambu X1 they often print in less than 20 minutes. Also awesome for all kinds of router plates and adapters.
I’ve just watched Carl Rogers drill several holes for 22 minutes which I absolutely love!!! How sad am I. Love the videos Carl just wish there were more
Carl for plumb holes just screw two pieces of timber boards together stand them on there ends and rest the drill bit in the corner…cheap and easy Your welcome 😊
Excellent content and job satisfaction at the end is worth the effort. Over a lifetime I have noticed that so many people cannot by eye drill straight. You can and I love the totally natural way you place the plane onto the bench side down to protect the iron. That is one sign of a skilled craftsman in my view. Thank you for posting.
hey Carl, I've been here since the beginning and i am always learning. I never dared to do some things myself, especially roof tiles. I covered my small workshop with them and it looks great. I'm already looking forward to the next video.
I have made long shims using a jig on my thickness planer. For the smaller ones you made you could also have made a router jig. For the end sealer I made a batch of bees wax, turpentine and linseed oil. For general use end sealer I use driveway sealer, a tar mixture that dries overnight, cheap and works. You can repair that off center hole with a oak plug glued in and redo. If your hole is that mission critical you can drill a pilot and then set up a boring bar. I have made temporary boring bars by threading a hole saw on an all thread rod.
48 and 48. I know I didn't find this quite as satisfying as you must have felt, especially given the annoyance of your first effort but god that was satisfying to see that hole squared up on the underside. Awesome work my friend.
Use superglue instead of double sided tape. 1 dab every 12-15cm. Holds just as strong side to side but is a lot easier to break free. As for the 28mm holes. If you ever need to do that again, drill the holes multiple times stepping up in 10-12mm jumps. It will be quicker because the drill won't bog down and you will be less likely to burn the motor out on the drill. Jumping straight into 28mm holes is a lot of work for the drill. Even a quality one like Festool.
Yet another very pleasurable video upload, perfect to watch with a strong cuppa and biscuits ! ... BTW Carl, I have received my tool belt and pouches and looking forward to using them next month 😍
I wood have cried having to reform a third time, at least you got to the root of the problem. Congrats on leafing this stage behind and not pining. Sorry you hurt your palm. It was exhaustingly hot in August a lot cooler now we are in Septimber. Thankyou for the knowledge and great video, no more acorny jokes..promise😁
I bet the first one was off angle because the beam itself wasn't level in both ways and therefore not parallel (well technically perpendicular?) to your laser lines. Enjoyed the video, nice with those talk-in-person segments 👌
A commonly used trick in metal machining is to use regular painters tape on both surfaces and then super gluing those 2 pieces of tape together. That's super strong but also very easy to remove
Ive drilled quite a few deep holes in hardwood and some freehand like you did. I cant remember the brand but theres so e drill bits that are like the 2nd one you used but the spiral is only an inch or two long, its then on a reduced diameter shank, i have one that is nearly a meter long. This reduces the strain massively on your drilling machine. You can hold it very much easier then to get a straight hole, you arent getting pulled by the drill. Ive also used guides with bearings running on the reduced shanks, that stand off the work, to allow you to withdraw the drill bit to clear the chips then go back in. Yove done a good job with what youve done, so thanks for sharing, and i hope you dont mind me sharing my experiences. 😊
My husband got so triggered when you didn't wipe the blood off of the drill bit. He was like "CLEAN YOUR TOOLS, YOU FOOL! Blood is so corrosive!" I had a great laugh. I'm so happy when Carl updates, now if only Memphis would update :(
minor correction: the draft angle is not there to help removing the cast iron from the mold. the mold gets destroyed after every casting. it is there, to help with removing the pattern from the mold, before the liquid iron is cast into the void the pattern leaves behind :)
Hi Carl love your videos. In hindsight and for next time large forstner type bits are recommended to be used in a drill press. It is is a lot to ask of a hand held drill mains or battery. I felt for your finger.
I'm so happy to see you again and it consists with your project that you plan, just got to say, love the calf muscles your working off very low fat content and the comments about loose clothing, Och cut my finger, we don't want it cutting other important muscles since I won't be there to help bandage them. Lots of love. Afriend.
Interesting but at 2:11 sole plate of circular saw needs to be on the wide part of the work, maybe affix a track the reverse angle to complete cut accurately and safely. Now I gotta go see where the vehicle will be! Looking forward to next vids!
Hey mate, next time you need to drill a hole that deep perfectly vertical, you can just use your little drill press. On Most of this machine types you can actually swivel the foot around (180°), after loosening the bolt's of course, so you can clamp the foot on the other side to the wood.
I kept thinking why not use the drill press and drill from both sides? I’m sure there is a reason.. maybe not enough clearance.. I really enjoy your projects as they invariably require solutions that go slightly beyond the capabilities of the tools available. Can relate.
So cool it looks great, I'm looking forward to following you, I think you're super talented👍👊 I hope your finger is okay, but I think it's nice that you show it so the rest of us can see that you have to be careful😞
When you get a notch in the planer blades and don't have any to change to. Move one steel a little to the right and the other a little to the left and the problem disappears.
Engles coach shop .Dave Engles is a master coach builder and wheelwright he has videos on every aspect of what you are looking to achieve. Well worth a look, good luck and cheers
I have a Milwaukee Hole Hawg which may help with larger hole drilling, or maybe a line bore? Great work Carl this will be so cool when done! Thanks for everything ❤
Your benchtop drill press is small enough to almost be considered portable. It would be possible to clamp the base to the bottom of the beam and drill at least halfway through. Filp it and drill from the opposite side. It should come out spot on.
My buddy built same 'Gypsy Wagon' in the 80's, with auto suspension and rubber tires. That was his 3rd wagon. He took it on a trip and 300 miles in, the suspension crapped pout and so he wrecked the truck and wagon. He walked away. So, I do not believe this sort of rig your building is portable on it's own. You could take it on the road, but running at highway speeds in the long run is insane. Better to truck it to where you want to be and perhaps move it down the road at 10 mph.
Love your videos man, I'm always waiting for your next upload. I wasn't going to say it but you need a real drill for the type of lumber you use, I would recommend getting a dewalt 60v flexvolt advantage, that thing won't have to be cooled down and they have way more power than festools drill.
Loose clothes at the side of the jointer, loose cuffs close to the blade; using hands... Arrrghhh!!! Love your videos Carl, but please be careful... it made me sweat 🙂
My tutor told me many years ago “by the time your brain registers you’ve touched the blades you’ve already lost 5mm of your finger tips” Please be careful mate
Love your videos and craftsmanship. Something to consider when it comes to situational awareness. I was watching you drill those holes and your jacket was getting awfully close to that drill bit. Would be awful if your jacket had been caught. Probably not a good idea to be wearing a loose fitted jacket when drilling. Maybe next time, wear something that isn't loose to avoid potential accidents. Your doing a great job. Cheers from Australia.
Next time use the extra handle on your PDC 18/4, it 'll help with keeping it straight and when it locks up your wrist won't suffer as much... Nice work!
Wonderful video, as always. When going through timber like that, you might consider using something like a Milwaukee Hole Hawg. (I apologize, but I don't know what the equivalent brand would be in Europe.)
When a Carl Rogers video pops up, it's a moment to stop, slow down and relax to take some time out from the rat race and mentally escape to a slower pace of life. Your videos are little islands of sanctuary in the cess pit of the Internet. Thank you for doing what you do!
Here here mate
Second that!
Yup
They're never more than a couple hours old when I watch. The only channel ignore everything else for.
Well put. Spot on. ❤🙏
I'm a retired shipwright. The secrets to drilling long holes in planks are: 1. Use a barefoot pilot augur with a pre-drilled starter hole. 2. Use a guide to support the bit at least 12 inches beyond the plank edge. 3. Most important! Drill from both ends. That reduces the chances of a 'drift' error by 50%
Thanks very much
Also retired shipwright, you are relying on a pilot bit to not drift. If you need something really accurate like shaft log, you need a boring bar.
It won't reduce drift by 50% it reduces it 100%. If you drill from both sides there is no way NOT to have correct orientation of the entry and exit. And you have to be completely ham fisted not to get the holes to line up to the point the second shot will catch the first hole.
Thanks for leaving mistakes in there.. good for us to learn as you do!
I guess this is where you need a massive pillar drill that will drill 100% straight 😊
Yeah, I learn so much and it's so constructive for me who doesn't even have a single screwdriver at home.
Good carpenters admit mistakes, it is the one who say they don't make mistakes I always question! Great Video
Who says they don’t make mistakes? I don’t think I’ve ever heard that.
Thanks for the upload. I really appreciate showing the mistakes. We all make them, and how you problem solved it was great.
If you can't make a mistake....you can't make anything.
I’m gonna offer some unsolicited advice young man, tuck your shirt in and either roll your sleeves up further or wear short sleeves. I’ve been working in a cabinet shop for over 40 years and have been reminded of my loose clothing a few times the hard way. Would hate to see you experience what I have. Your a good craftsman and I enjoy your videos 😉
There is no joy like that of a perfectonist accomplishing his/her goal, unless, maybe that of a viewer watching it happen. Thanks, Carl for another one! BTW, as a retired lamp maker, I have been challenged many times with drilling a hole through tall wooden candlesticks and trying not to bust out the side. Carl's trick of setting up lasers makes so much sense to me.
Confirms drill is very sharp. Proceeds to drill an inch from his meat and two veg. 😋
Great to see young men taking an interest in projects like this one, and the restoration of old buildings. With the buildings it's nice to see the extra effort to make everything look like it did when originally built. Keep up the pride in workmanship, there's a shortage of that nowadays.
📤📤
good job man! We have a saying: If you don't throw the ball, you can't mis the hoop (basket).
📤📤📤
when you set up those lasers I thought you were just wasting your time, but that turned out brilliantly!
Karl you should have drilled the widest potholes first. That way you still use the center spike on the forstner bits to prevent the drill from wandering. Then you drill a pilot hole through a square (!) block on the drill press. The pilot hole should be no wider then the centerspike of the bradpoint drill you'll use next. The block and pilot drill can then be centered in the spike divots of the potholes. Drill until halfway from both sides (lesschance of wandering!) Then follow the pilot hole with a bradpoint all the way through. This is the standard way for long hole drilling in wood to prevent getting off course.
Cheers,
Dick
Agreed. That's how I drill stepped. holes in large things. Never freehand. The laser offers guidance but doesn't correct you when you are off.
Good knowledge thank you
An extraordinary man with a real thirst for doing things right. Carl Rogers videos N.E.V.E.R. disappoint!!!
I love the fact that you don't skip from step-to-step but actually show the detail. I still wish you wouldn't wear a loose shirt around saw blades and drill-bits. :)
Ya know Carl, I simply gotta say you obviously bring something special to many people around the world. You're a pretty exceptional guy. You work at things and fail. But, you're at it again with determination learning from the frustration. What's so cool is you're able make us laugh with you at your mistakes. That's a special gift.
Ya try. Ya fail. Ya try again and again to succeed. As was said in another' thread you bring hope to a cesspool that can be the internet.
It's people like you that convince me we're gonna make it.
Thank you Carl for trying to be better! And to make all of us want to be better.
📤📤📤
16:50 There are drillbits with 3 flukes for even better stability :)
also: it is amazing what an 18V battery tool can do nowadays.
You have a frickin great voice/demeanor for this. It takes me back to the days of the OG "This Old House" with a touch of Bob Ross. Keep it up. Loving the content and the story of this build.
In the states, over here in the Napa Valley, my family has been growing grapes and producing wine on our historical property in Saint Helena, CA. Since 1932
Not even watched yet and already made my Friday afternoon in the office way better :)
You can make a drill bushing for alignment by drilling on the drill press, relatively thin pieces to be glued together stacking them to the desired height on a removable alignment pin!
Works like a charm!
Wondering why you didn’t cut the large timbers on the angle from the get go? You could have planed them into specification
Keep up the good work!
JIM ❤
I do enjoy the practicality you show in everything you do. You truly have the eyes of a craftsman and always seem to find solutions to the problems you are facing. Your vlog are one of my top three, that I enjoy the most and are one that I really look foreward to new episodes from. All the best!
That was a precision engineering task You did very well Note No lose clothing Safety first you where luck to only cut the finger
Very satisfying result Can’t wait for next week 👍👍👍👍
Yes, I was concerned about the open jacket.
@@melissaroth4467 Do you think that bandsawing @9:40 is safe?
22 minutes to drill a couple holes, and I still had to watch to the whole thing. This is a masterpiece in the making. Perhaps even more than the staircase, and I didn't think that could be beat.
It's always worth waiting for your videos... you share the entire process, the mistakes and even your injuries... your voice conveys an enviable calm and serenity :) ... accept a hug from Lisbon
Great project and thanks for sharing!
These days I produce alignment and drill guides with a 3d printer. Very flexible method with precise results and with modern fast printers like the Bambu X1 they often print in less than 20 minutes. Also awesome for all kinds of router plates and adapters.
I’ve just watched Carl Rogers drill several holes for 22 minutes which I absolutely love!!! How sad am I. Love the videos Carl just wish there were more
📤📤📤
Excellent job young man. The level of quality in your work is amazing.
Carl for plumb holes just screw two pieces of timber boards together stand them on there ends and rest the drill bit in the corner…cheap and easy
Your welcome 😊
Excellent content and job satisfaction at the end is worth the effort. Over a lifetime I have noticed that so many people cannot by eye drill straight. You can and I love the totally natural way you place the plane onto the bench side down to protect the iron. That is one sign of a skilled craftsman in my view. Thank you for posting.
📤📤
Never have I seen so many “gadgets” or witnessed such precision
As always, interesting and engaging. Great project. With a long bore like these, then drill accurately from both sides. Any error is halved.
Damn it Janet, that's called a Brad point drill bit. The first is an auger bit. Also appearances of a Forstner bit.
Don't forget the spade bit!
First weekend on holidays, and this pops up, celebrations all round. Thanks Carl.
hey Carl,
I've been here since the beginning and i am always learning. I never dared to do some things myself, especially roof tiles. I covered my small workshop with them and it looks great.
I'm already looking forward to the next video.
I have made long shims using a jig on my thickness planer. For the smaller ones you made you could also have made a router jig. For the end sealer I made a batch of bees wax, turpentine and linseed oil. For general use end sealer I use driveway sealer, a tar mixture that dries overnight, cheap and works. You can repair that off center hole with a oak plug glued in and redo. If your hole is that mission critical you can drill a pilot and then set up a boring bar. I have made temporary boring bars by threading a hole saw on an all thread rod.
📤📤
48 and 48. I know I didn't find this quite as satisfying as you must have felt, especially given the annoyance of your first effort but god that was satisfying to see that hole squared up on the underside. Awesome work my friend.
📤
Always a good day to find one of your videos in my queue. Thanks for posting.
Use superglue instead of double sided tape. 1 dab every 12-15cm. Holds just as strong side to side but is a lot easier to break free.
As for the 28mm holes. If you ever need to do that again, drill the holes multiple times stepping up in 10-12mm jumps. It will be quicker because the drill won't bog down and you will be less likely to burn the motor out on the drill. Jumping straight into 28mm holes is a lot of work for the drill. Even a quality one like Festool.
Finally, a video !! Thanks a lot ! And good job as always...
I’ve done a similar thing to my finger with a drill bit. You got it a little worse though. Great ingenuity throughout the process.
Love the videos Carl! Keep it up. I was wondering if you have any plans on doing more videos restoring the house soon
You’re a clever lad Carl keep the videos coming 👍
Yet another very pleasurable video upload, perfect to watch with a strong cuppa and biscuits ! ... BTW Carl, I have received my tool belt and pouches and looking forward to using them next month 😍
Just amazing! I love the work and vision of these hardworking and smart men 👏🏽👏🏽😍
Mr Carl please roll those sleaves up. Love your channel !
Carl loving your problem solving….. lots more please mate 👍
I wood have cried having to reform a third time, at least you got to the root of the problem. Congrats on leafing this stage behind and not pining. Sorry you hurt your palm. It was exhaustingly hot in August a lot cooler now we are in Septimber. Thankyou for the knowledge and great video, no more acorny jokes..promise😁
Me encantan tus videos, eres un maestro en todos los sentidos, que pena que hagas tan pocos.
Thanks!
Thank you!
I bet the first one was off angle because the beam itself wasn't level in both ways and therefore not parallel (well technically perpendicular?) to your laser lines.
Enjoyed the video, nice with those talk-in-person segments 👌
Yeah exactly this.
Carl always good to see your notifications come up! Real nice job on the Timbers! 👍👍👍👍
The use of the laser levels to keep the drill bits square to the work is pretty genius.
📤📤📤
A commonly used trick in metal machining is to use regular painters tape on both surfaces and then super gluing those 2 pieces of tape together. That's super strong but also very easy to remove
Ive drilled quite a few deep holes in hardwood and some freehand like you did. I cant remember the brand but theres so e drill bits that are like the 2nd one you used but the spiral is only an inch or two long, its then on a reduced diameter shank, i have one that is nearly a meter long. This reduces the strain massively on your drilling machine. You can hold it very much easier then to get a straight hole, you arent getting pulled by the drill. Ive also used guides with bearings running on the reduced shanks, that stand off the work, to allow you to withdraw the drill bit to clear the chips then go back in. Yove done a good job with what youve done, so thanks for sharing, and i hope you dont mind me sharing my experiences. 😊
Pilot drilling is always a good idea, you can correct the plumb before going bigger
Another great video, love the hommage to Reg the DIY guy from Kenny Everett with the injury(ask your Dad). love you attention to detail, keep going.👋
My husband got so triggered when you didn't wipe the blood off of the drill bit. He was like "CLEAN YOUR TOOLS, YOU FOOL! Blood is so corrosive!" I had a great laugh. I'm so happy when Carl updates, now if only Memphis would update :(
Some sort of bridle joint to create the tapers would have been cool your option was much simpler though.
Another great project on the go 🎉
Double sided tape them together and put them through the planer thicknesser...job done.
minor correction: the draft angle is not there to help removing the cast iron from the mold. the mold gets destroyed after every casting.
it is there, to help with removing the pattern from the mold, before the liquid iron is cast into the void the pattern leaves behind :)
first drill bit u used is for fast rough holes with a powerfull drill
📤📤
Woodworking like an engineer.
Hi Carl love your videos. In hindsight and for next time large forstner type bits are recommended to be used in a drill press. It is is a lot to ask of a hand held drill mains or battery. I felt for your finger.
Fera topp baita profissional. Seus vídeos são inspiração.
I'm so happy to see you again and it consists with your project that you plan, just got to say, love the calf muscles your working off very low fat content and the comments about loose clothing, Och cut my finger, we don't want it cutting other important muscles since I won't be there to help bandage them. Lots of love. Afriend.
Interesting but at 2:11 sole plate of circular saw needs to be on the wide part of the work, maybe affix a track the reverse angle to complete cut accurately and safely. Now I gotta go see where the vehicle will be! Looking forward to next vids!
Hey mate, next time you need to drill a hole that deep perfectly vertical, you can just use your little drill press. On Most of this machine types you can actually swivel the foot around (180°), after loosening the bolt's of course, so you can clamp the foot on the other side to the wood.
That's a great technique using the laser levels.
Find your videos so relaxing and so interesting!
Yeah you better be sorry,..LOL. Looks pretty cool Carl , looking forward to see it when its finished!
9:48 this is genius, turning it into a bandsaw
I kept thinking why not use the drill press and drill from both sides? I’m sure there is a reason.. maybe not enough clearance..
I really enjoy your projects as they invariably require solutions that go slightly beyond the capabilities of the tools available. Can relate.
u are a craftsman bro love your vids
Please keep them coming
had to make a similar hole 20 times, so i got a used pilar drill and made a mooving base for it.
I don’t know why I am watching a video about some random beams. I truly do not. And I am thoroughly enjoying it. What the heck!
So cool it looks great, I'm looking forward to following you, I think you're super talented👍👊 I hope your finger is okay, but I think it's nice that you show it so the rest of us can see that you have to be careful😞
When you get a notch in the planer blades and don't have any to change to. Move one steel a little to the right and the other a little to the left and the problem disappears.
Engles coach shop .Dave Engles is a master coach builder and wheelwright he has videos on every aspect of what you are looking to achieve. Well worth a look, good luck and cheers
It looks like you found the red Dykem marking solution. Those auger bits are wildly sharp, it’s so easy to cut yourself when handling them.
Enjoy watching your videos so interesting
You’re the man Carl!
loved the video Carl, but I am missing the wind chimes. keep up the great work.
I have a Milwaukee Hole Hawg which may help with larger hole drilling, or maybe a line bore? Great work Carl this will be so cool when done! Thanks for everything ❤
When I'm boring hard woods or just shit ton of holes I have a bucket of water to cool the auger bits in.
Drilling straight can be really tricky, we can all testify to that.
Your benchtop drill press is small enough to almost be considered portable. It would be possible to clamp the base to the bottom of the beam and drill at least halfway through. Filp it and drill from the opposite side. It should come out spot on.
Worth waiting for. Glad to see you.
My buddy built same 'Gypsy Wagon' in the 80's, with auto suspension and rubber tires. That was his 3rd wagon. He took it on a trip and 300 miles in, the suspension crapped pout and so he wrecked the truck and wagon. He walked away.
So, I do not believe this sort of rig your building is portable on it's own. You could take it on the road, but running at highway speeds in the long run is insane. Better to truck it to where you want to be and perhaps move it down the road at 10 mph.
Clever how you created the 2degree shims. Concerned you loosing your hand when pushing the board across the planer 😮
Love your videos man, I'm always waiting for your next upload. I wasn't going to say it but you need a real drill for the type of lumber you use, I would recommend getting a dewalt 60v flexvolt advantage, that thing won't have to be cooled down and they have way more power than festools drill.
Loose clothes at the side of the jointer, loose cuffs close to the blade; using hands... Arrrghhh!!! Love your videos Carl, but please be careful... it made me sweat 🙂
My tutor told me many years ago “by the time your brain registers you’ve touched the blades you’ve already lost 5mm of your finger tips”
Please be careful mate
Nice trick with the laser!
Nice interface between voice and originator.
Love your videos and craftsmanship. Something to consider when it comes to situational awareness. I was watching you drill those holes and your jacket was getting awfully close to that drill bit. Would be awful if your jacket had been caught. Probably not a good idea to be wearing a loose fitted jacket when drilling. Maybe next time, wear something that isn't loose to avoid potential accidents. Your doing a great job. Cheers from Australia.
Next time use the extra handle on your PDC 18/4, it 'll help with keeping it straight and when it locks up your wrist won't suffer as much...
Nice work!
𝒽𝒾 𝓌𝒾𝓃𝓃𝑒𝓇
large drill press, since the beam you are drilling is mobile, it can be brought somewhere that has a large drill press.
📤📤📤
Ingenious and incredible.
Wonderful video, as always.
When going through timber like that, you might consider using something like a Milwaukee Hole Hawg. (I apologize, but I don't know what the equivalent brand would be in Europe.)
Great video as always Carl. you do great work lad.