How to get more Accuracy from your Kreg Accu-Cut Track Saw
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ก.ค. 2024
- Is the Kreg Accu-Cut XL the worst woodworking tool ever? Ummmmm... No. Thanks for watching all! :P Just kidding, it may not be the best track saw out there, but then it never claims to be. Here is my review of its accuracy after a few years of use in the workshop and my trick on how to fix the sled wobble on the accu-cut.
But seriously, a mate recently sent me a click-bait video trashing the Accucut when all the guy needed to do was practice with it and perhaps use my little secret tip to get more accuracy out of it. Here is how I make perfect cuts with my Accu-Cut 106 track saw system. (Well perfect enough for a tool designed to break down large sheet goods.
Please don't trip over the irony of this video reply and while this is not a sponsored video, full disclosure, I am a Kreg Australia Brand Ambassador so may be biased to my blue gear.
My Accu-Cut Setup Video:
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00:00 - Real-World Usage
02:42 - The Trick for Accurate Cuts
04:32 - Setting the Accu-Cut Depth Correctly
06:14 - Testing the Accuracy - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![[ไฮไลต์] ฟุตบอลชาย ฝรั่งเศส vs อเมริกา รอบแบ่งกลุ่ม | โอลิมปิก 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oZ9aSS0NEEg/mqdefault.jpg)
I hope that helps you get more from this cool tool, sorry for the click-bait :P If this was useful you can now say *"Thanks"* above or simply like or share it. Hit me up if you have any questions! - James
Lots of videos, some pro Kreg, some against. I’m a Diy woodworker with limited resources and a budget. I think these tools are fantastic for my level and have a few, will be buying more. It doesn’t mean much to me when a professional woodworker with a massive workshop and expensive equipment keeps telling me that Kreg is no good. I appreciate your approach and instruction has benefited my knowledge. Thanks
Cheers Mike, yeah, I am sure they are doing it for the clicks (but then I am guilty of that too :P) but you need to compare a tool to the intended use and audience. No point being in a production workshop and complaining your Ryobi router died after 3 days of use for 8 hours a day.. or being a hobbyist and complaining a Shaper Origin is too expensive. Kreg target their home workshop / DIY market very well. Some of their gear misses the mark at times (Im looking at the corner jig I reviewed recently) but most is great for its intended purpose. Cheers!
Great video~! I've been using the Kreg Accu-Cut for several years now and use the exact same technique that you demonstrate. People have to understand that this tool isn't for precision work, but used correctly, you can get fantastic results. Thanks for this one~!
I wonder if Kreg had called it the Kinda-Accu-Cut people would accept it for what it is? 😅
@@FixitFingers LOL, so true. Would manage their expectations a bit, I guess.
Absolutely fantastic video! We love how you explained everything in detail to show the true effectiveness of the Kreg Accucut. Very well done sir!!!
I just dislike it when something is bagged purely for clicks or because the user didn't give it a chance. It's not perfect, but it's damn handy.
I'm a big fan of how you've approached this video mate. Honest, raw and confronting, love it. In many respects its everything you'd need to know about this tool, fits the budget and does everything it sets out to do well.
I'd watched your set up video of this tool and I've been considering it for a while. For breaking up sheet goods this seems to be perfect, and I really can justify a proper track saw quite yet.
Conversely carbatec are opening up their second nz store less than 3kms from my house too which is bloody dangerous!
Cheers!
Ha! Im lucky they are about 30 minutes from me so just too far to make quick trip too which saves the budget ;) It's not often I use the full length one, but bloody glad I had it for this job as there was lots of full sheet ripping. To replace a table saw the Rip-Cut would still be my first choice but with the half-length Accu-cut to reach the places the rip-cut can't it's an awesome duo.
I'm so glad I found your channel James. I am a woodworking hobbyist who doesn't have a huge budget for things like Plunge saws (even though I REALLY want one!). When I came across the Kreg Accu-Cut, first thing I did was look to see if there were reviews and here I am. Your setup video was great as I have virtually the exact same Makita circular saw as you (albeit mine isn't brushless) but it was good to see if it was compatible with the Kreg. Hoping to purchase the Accu-Cut soon! Thanks!
While you don't get quite the same function as a plunge saw, it is also one less tool in the shed as your circular saw can do double-duties which is great for folks with limited space (as well as not having to purchase two tools!) I have been asked many times to compare the the Accu-cut to a cheap plunge saw which I may do one day, but for me it continues to do the job so I've not been really tempted to try yet (and the Makita track saw is kinda pricey) :)
I didn’t think this would like this video but you knocked it out of the park mate. Great video and response to anyone questioning the accuracy. Love the way you were matter of fact and to the point!!
Hahaha yeah not my usual style, and really an experiment into click bait that sadly has worked to some degree 😅 However while views are through roof the retention rate is terrible, which I also think is in line with click bait as I answer the question in the first minute folks have no reason to watch the other 8 unless they own the tool already and want to improve (which was the real point of it). Can't say I won't keep mucking around with my thumbnails but don't worry, regular content will continue 😁
@@FixitFingers got to keep trying new things is what I say.
Excellent video. Looks to be a very good tool. I just ordered the complete Kreg Adaptive Cutting System.
Nice! That's not available outside the USA currently, I think it's only 110V so here and Europe can't run it. Shame, also looks good.
Thanks for the tips on using this tool ... Very helpful.
No worries Chuck, it's a good value tool. Has it's limits, but those still produce perfectly good results when used with care. 👍
very good material. thank you for the advice. I really like and respect Kreg. regards
Cheers mate, they sit in a good space in the market for the home hobbiest. Glad this helped 😊
Love it. Technique, not the tool. So glad you said that. I just paid $90 for one of these today and I think it does a great job for a $90 investment.
I noticed the same slack and was a little worried. But seeing your video reminds me to have the right perspective!
Glad it was helpful! I get a little annoyed when people compare a $90 tool to a $600 tool and expect the same results. Happy cutting mate.
I have always been amazed that my father-in-law, a long time carpenter, can cut such amazingly straight lines with a circular saw without such a tool. I can hardly cut a straight line with a guide like this.
I am far from being an artisan and have this idea that buying modern tools can make up for my lack of experience and skill. So the tool won't do it all for me; I'm glad to get my expectations cleared up. It is great that people like Fixit Fingers will share their knowledge and experience about how to use the modern tools. The tool will help me, allow me to do far better than I can on my own, but it seems no tool, on its own, can make me an artisan.
Cheers Dale. The old adage is very true, no matter how much you spend on a tool in the wrong hands it can still do a poor job. Now, I'm sure the Festool track saw makes doing a poor job harder... but then you are paying a premium, and if you've never cut timber before I'm sure a novice would still find it very confusing and frustrating to use. This is a good tool that _helps_ you cut straight lines, not a replacement for your father-in-law's lifetime of skill and practice 😊 Hopefully it helps you get better results for a reasonable price ;)
Not bad James, that much accuracy over 2.4m/8ft is pretty good. These tracks do have that small play in them, but the trick, as you rightly said, is keeping the hand consistent throughout the movement. Its the same even with my Aldi "track" saw (lol)
Ooops, yeah 8ft, not 6ft... hmmm and here I was thinking I was doing good imperial conversions on the fly! ;) Budget tools have their place, and their limits. It's learning how to work with them.
Great job on the video. Thanks.
Cheers Ken, I promise I'm not usually that cranky 😆
Hi James,
I think accuracy seems pretty good. When using such tools, it is necessary to hold tight throughout the movement. Thanks for showing the details. all the best. see you buddy.
Slow and steady! You can stop half way to adjust your grip or position as long as you back it off a few cm then start again. There are also optional clamps for slippery stuff like melamine.
@@FixitFingers thank you so much my friend. see you later. all the best.
Nice video James, I agree. Happy with mine, I just took a few goes to get used to it. I just get annoyed at myself when I lose the grub screws!
Your sled has grub screws!? Have I missed something? 😅 or do you mean the ones that join the track together?
@@FixitFingers oops obviously have the wrong language. Yes the little screws that attach the track together.
@@sawdustandshavingscreations argh cool. Yep those little buggers you don't want to drop!
Cool tool belt mate, the guy knocking it must a been a donkey drop mate & I believe that the Kreg brand is a good brand so well presented video old chap 🍻👍👍👍
I'll swap ya for that rubbish green track thing you got recently when you come to Sydney if you like mate :P hahahaha
Mate great review, yeah really can't argue with 0.1mm accuracy in wood because it'll move and warp anyway, great job mate
And for the breaking down of sheet goods 1mm is well overkill in most situations. I wasn't even being that careful 😅 It's like any tool, use it as designed and with practice you'll get good results
For the average DIY’er, like myself, I would say it’s pretty acceptable! I have the rip-cut and had bad first time experience with it - but after a couple of try’s your technique gets better and I rip down pieces to size now rather fast and “precise” to take to my table saw! Great video!!👍🙏🏻
Agreed! The rip cut I also found to need more practice to get consistent cuts (especially exiting the cut) but as I don't have a table saw I get lots of excuses to get better at it 😉
Danish?
@@JesperMakes yeah man😃🇩🇰✌️ nice to meet you
@@peterkjrgaard7890 Jeg hedder så Jesper Kjærgaard ;-)
@@JesperMakes haha What😃 det er ikke mange jeg møder som også hedder Kjærgaard!😊 så nogle af dine videoer og kunne lide dem!😊👍 fedt med en dansk “woodworker”!!
Hvorfra i DK er du?
At first I thought, 'Shiser! James has a new workshop but alas, not so. Half a mm over 2.4m, I'd be happy with that level of accuracy any day of the week mate. And lets be frank, a circular saw cut over 2.4 metres is hardly in the realms of high end cabinet making. Great video James, thanks for sharing. All the best, Brian.
I wish! You'll get see more of the shop in my next member video I hope to edit this weekend. Beautiful view, rust would be a big issue though 😅 That's really what got my goat with the original video, not only the exaggeration of error but the implication this tool was designed for micro meter accuracy to begin with... For $70USD 😂
A bad tradesman will always blame his tools. To be a 10th of a millimetre out over 2.4 metres, in my book, is very accurate. Great video and well explained. 👍👍
And that was using a carpenters pencil on a tradey job 😅 I also used some of that light weight ply you were talking about on this job. It's pretty cool stuff!
What would you know Zurek 🙄😮😁😁😁😁
Enjoy and appreciate your content, keep up the great work👍. Can you cut a 45 bevel using this?
Hey Cosmos, sadly no, not usually. It is another thing to consider when saving pennies on a real track saw. (You'd likely hit the accu-cut chip guard). Another option for those is you could use the Straight Edge Guide instead - amzn.to/3ugXn29
Legend!
Again, keep up the great work, tah.
Thanks for the tips - I subscribed whenever someone has saved me time & money - I subscribed to your channel today.
Cheers Balh! I like to think I run a good balance between being tight and spending money on quality where it will last. Hope you enjoy the channel 🙂
PS - Alfred E Newman profile pic for the win 😄
@@FixitFingers As a child of the 60's and early 70's - Alfred was my hero for many years. Finally replaced by National Lampoon in the mid 70's. I still maintain that Alfred's mantra "what me worry?" is a valuable tool when dealing with today's world however.
@@Graysail0r I grew up in the 80s and 90s, and still have a huge box of Australian Mad Magazine somewhere I collected religiously from that time period 😄
It is nice to see that if you spend enough time you can make almost anything work. Little tricks like keeping it tight to the track guide because you know it has no cams to keep it tight. If your paying laborers though, it will be cheaper to buy track saw and save wages. Great DIY tool though!
Oh for sure, when time is money and you need it everyday you wouldn't want a track that needs the sled. Kreg gear is designed for the home workshop, not laborer abuse 😉
Good video. Informative rather than the “informercials” I’ve watched so far
Cheers Wayne. I'm guilty of those too, though they serve an audience as well. This one much more ranty than usual, I'm normally happier 😅
You should make more of these rough type of video. Good tricks, but what did you do to your index finger? Good fix Mr. Fix it!!
HA! Two days on the tools at an unfamiliar workshop and the only injury I got was before I left home opening the stupid plastic packet my new drill bit came in 🤣🤣
@@FixitFingers Same here, I work with dangerous tools in my workshop all day without any issues, but 5 minutes in the kitchen and I need the first aid kid and an ambulance
Thanks for the video. Can you cut at a 45 degree angle using this track?
Sadly no, the chip guard gets in the way if you bevel the saw so that is one of the advantages of a real tracksaw over this guy. However, you can use the Kreg Straight edge guide (Or a DIY straightedge) to achieve those beveled cuts. If you put blue tape along the cut line, it will help minimise tearout like the chipguard does on the Accu-cut :)
I am also looking for one. It's an excellent tool for space saver
One of the things I like about the sled is you don't need a dedicated pluge saw, meaning your circ saw can do double-time. Saves a tool space.
Like you I have been able to get my accu-cut spot on to the dot...
It aint the tool, it's how you use it ;) hehe
Nothing wrong with that, great demo.
Just wish I could keep the workshop 😅
Better accuracy than I'll ever need! That track adapter for the saw looks way sturdier than the official Makita one I got. Would (will) have to modify it quite much to make it work that well... 🙄
I didn't know makita had a track adaptor for the circular saw as opposed to a dedicated plunge saw! Kreg plastic is quality stuff, I've never managed to break, crack or even badly chip on on any tool. For the price it's a great unit.
@@FixitFingers The bad thing with the Makita 197462-2 adapter is that it's made to fit an array of different saws, which means that it doesn't work that well with any of them. I would take the Kreg one any day, but I already have the Makita track, so I feel I have to make it title somehow...
I bought the ACCU-CUT system from KREG and I think it's a bloody decent system for 100 euros. That's what it cost me. I have a table saw as well which is a POS and I'm about to begin my rebuild of a DIY table saw but this is dead handy makin cuts in 18mm MDF/PLYWOOD/OSB board.. I've very happy with it.
Woorworking is not maching with Lathes or a feckin milling machine for acuracy. Ur allowed to be a millimeter out here or there. Did ppl ever hear of +/- 1.0mm..
Well said mate. I enjoy using this tool myself.. I will be using it to build wardrobes tommorow and I cannot wait to get it out of the box again.. LOL
Well said. I do have a table saw now finally but even still I break this out to break up sheets all the time. My job site saw can't safely cut bits that are too wide so it will continue to be a handy thing to have.
The pencil mark is wider than the end-to-end variance. Well said!
Cheers mate, I'd not thought of it in those terms! For a (relatively) cheap tool designed to quickly break down sheet goods, it does the job well, making this task a breeze and not requiring another power tool. With care, it can also be very accurate. Can't ask much more than that.
I Have used a Accucut for long time over table saw for plywood. the best way to keep it accurate put a laser on your circular saw. the play (slop, movement) on the accucut is real. the laser will help you keep cutting straight. My cuts got so much smoother once i started using a saw with a laser along with the accucut
Good tip. Using a laser to line up the guide could also be a cool thing to try
Thank you!
No worries Lon, hope it helped. 👍
Will this track also work if you bevel your blade? will it bite into the sacrificial edge too much?
Short answer is no sadly, not usually. The slot your blade goes through on the sled prohibits you from beveling. So if this is a deal-breaker but you are still after a non-tracksaw price, check out the more simple (and cheaper) Straight-Edge Guide. I've taken a look at that too here: th-cam.com/video/fITfNg1C_3c/w-d-xo.html :D
This is true especially if you cut a full length of plywood. Its not accurate by 1 millimeter. I think the flaw here is the main sled theres a ton of movement. I use a thin maskin tape underneath the sled to eliminate the movement
I did that for a while too, it does help. I really hope they release an Accu-Cut V2.0 soon, this design is over a decade old now I think, time for an update.
I know the video you're talking about and I did agree with him in the fact I wasn't happy with my kreg track. I tried to address some of the slop with some low friction teflon tape that I saw in another video. I still wasn't happy with the results. At the price point of the WEN track saw I'm not sure if even worth the trouble of dealing with this kreg track.
We don't have Wen here in Oz but I'm familiar with the brand from American video makers. It's basically DIY Ryobi sorta price and level yeah? I've got friends with budget brand tracks saws here and like most tools you get what you pay for. With care though they also cut perfectly acceptably and you get the plunge feature so well worth a look! The problems with the lower end ones tend to be the saw power more than the track straightness. (I am glad I'm running Makita in this, an Aldi brand saw would probably add to the inaccuracy. In my linked setup video the first few times I used the saw I noticed the little wobble in the Accu-cut and mentioned I wasn't too happy about it, but it didn't take long to learn the tools limits and adjust my grip to improve things. If you switch to the Wen let me know how it compares! Cheers Michael.
@@FixitFingers WEN isn't on my wish list for track saw. But I think WEN overall is a decent brand. For me personally I was trying to decide between the Kreg and makita track saw. I decided on the makita cause it opens you up to the world of Festool metric accessories. However since the Festool just went through a redsign I decided to make small leap. These are all corded btw. As a Canadian I live in a metric/imperial purgatory but I want to go metric. If Kreg would have stuck with 20mm holes instead of 3/4 I would have been all over it.
Oh I was bloody cursing them when I measured the dogs that came with my Vice and I needed to go get a 19mm bloody speed bore for the holes! 😅 Apart from Kreg I am also a Makita fan boy so if the Accu-cut ever gets run over I'll probably look at the Makita one too.
I put a few stipes of blue tape on the bottom of the plate that attaches to your saw, it makes it nice and tight and it doesn't wiggle.
That's a top tip, I've heard a few folks do that. Kreg have updated a lot of their tools in the past year or two, I wouldn't be surprised if a new version on this is on its way as well that hopefully makes these hacks uneccesary (without raising the price point :P). Time will tell!
@@FixitFingers I've had mine for a few years and I actually returned my first one it was so bad, I bought a new one and it was just as bad and that's when I added the tape.
Haha, great response James. He did leave himself open a little with a claim like that.
Oh I'm sure he was hamming it up for the clicks.... just like me :P Win-win... we both get a video out of it hahahaha
Hey, I hope you know a "mil" is in point of fact, one millionth of an inch! Jet engine machinist, Tinker AFB, Oklahoma, USA! (retired) We use a Six axis blade tip grinder on jet engine compressors here. The compressor spool must be stacked and measured to the millionth (specs withheld), roll, pitch. and yaw so it can spin properly within its shrouds, if not people can/will die. A millimeter is a millimeter, but millimeters can be divided into millionths I just don't care what that sub-millimeter is called.
Interesting job you have there Roy, not the sort of precision I'd ever associate with woodworking. Who said 'mil' though? I said 'mille' which is Latin for 'thousandth' (not to be confused with 'thou' naturally 😝) hahaha seriously though mate 'I'm guessing your work never took you Downunder for any length of time. We shorten absolutely anything here and rely on context to be understood 😉 I can assure you in Australian woodworking, a mil a millimetre. If I was baking, a mil would be a milligram and when I'm at the pub it's a millilitre! The average house price in Sydney is $2.5mil and while if you really want to hit the homonyms a mill is also noun where wood gets turned to into timber that you'd call lumber, and a verb for the same process. Don't you love the English language? 🤣
I've used the same Kreg system to build multiple cabinets. As a home DIYer, cost is always a concern as I want a good finished product (it's going to be in my home after all, and have my name on it), but I can't justify spending a ton of $$ on items I won't use often - I'm not a professional cabinet maker.
That said, you also have to use some common sense with these tools. e.g. when you set up the track initially, the instructions tell you to just butt the aluminum joints. In an ideal world this would make for a perfectly straight track, but I found it ever so slightly off using a trusted level. Also, for very long cuts, I would have clamped or otherwise held down the very end of the track. Kreg makes clamps for this that utilize the groove that exists on the under side of the track. Or, you can just use some imagination and make it work. When I had to do long cuts (over the track length, which is IIRC around 54" or so), I didn't want to buy another set of track so I'd make 2 cuts. Measure twice (or 3 or 4 times), cut once.
Lastly, the tacky underside of the track is designed such that you don't necessarily need to use clamps, and it works very well *if it's perfectly clean*. Even a small layer of sawdust will make it lose its grip and potentially move.
Again, common sense. For me it's worth spending more time in setup to make sure that I have a good cut than risk a crappy job or having to buy replacement materials.
All very good tips there! The little track clamps are extremely handy, especially with melamine and form ply. I think a some people have to adjust their expectations and realise every tool is only as good as its operator. Taking care with your cuts and setup is the key to a good result. 👍
I've had my acu cut for quite some time. I've never had a problem with accuracy. I think the people who complain about this tool are not taking the time to get it set up properly. You must take your time and do it right. Just like all other tools.
Exactly. Manufacturing is so good these days I believe 'duds' off the same production lines must be very rare. Every tool is made to a price point and has it's learning curve. If you expect perfect results off any tool without practice and adjustment you're kidding yourself regardless of how expensive it is.
The more difficult part of this rip process for me is getting the guide laid down perfectly parallel to the 'other' edge. I make a pencil mark at each end of the board, then agonize over getting the guide lined up on the two marks. Using a combination square to set the position at each end is also troublesome for me, as butting the guide to the combo square at one end causes the other end to slightly move off the mark.
Basically, I suck at carpentry.
Im sure you're doing it fine :) Remember this is a sheet breakdown tool, not a super precision joinery tool. You can cut square, it just takes practice. The start block actually has a built in fence that is square to the track, but I rarely use it. I make my marks, then use a carpenters square at the starting edge to ensure the corner at the start of the cut is close to square as I can get it. You'll always have a slight error if you make two marks and line it up, but it'll be close enough for the vast majority of things you use a tracksaw for.
No experience with this tool yet... And this is a part of reviewed research ... But he said the MAGIC word... TECHNIQUE...
ALL TOOLS are technique...
Exactly. Even the most expensive tools will give poor results without care and practice. Best of luck with the research.
I experienced real trouble when I used mine for the first few cuts. It wasn’t until I got out a square that I found the base of my saw was twisted meaning that it was trying to angles while I was trying to pushing it straight. I must say that the saw was about the same price as the accu-cut, so not the “best” saw available.
You know I'd not also considered the quality of the saw, or it's set up. Good you were able to trouble shoot rather than blame the tools. 👍
@@FixitFingers agreed. It’s a pity not everyone is able to say “I didn’t get on with this tool, but you may do”. There is plenty of evidence that the kit does work, with your and Sarah @Wood Shop Diaries to name just two sharing plenty of contents.
Yeah makes me wish I didn't throw out that expensive dovetail saw when I used it for the first time and my joints were all uneven, gappy and horrible. 🤣
@@FixitFingers 😁
I wonder if it's more because you're used to it now? Like an old car. Oh you just have to jiggle and twist back before you twist the key and it starts just fine. Once you're used to it it becomes second nature, but if someone new came in they'd struggle if they just twisted.
I can definitely understand both perspectives. Having never used a track saw I couldn't say for sure how they should be expected to perform. But good overview nonetheless.
This is true. Though even without twisting it still cuts pretty darn well for a tool designed to break down sheet goods. Every tool (especially cheaper tools) have their limitsand even expensive tools won't perform their best without practice 😁
Haha "Bee's Dick Perfect" love this. TBH I preferred your hardware storage video more, but this was really good. :) Also, I wonder which came out first, the Milescraft Exactor, or the Kreg Multimark...
Nothing is new, just marketed in different colours 😂 Ps - I was waiting for someone to comment on that remark 🐝🍆🌟
Shows that technique makes a big difference.
Something about a tradesman and his tools? ;)
@@FixitFingers 😂
run a piece of tape down the guide track on the saw guide, slop is completely gone!
A few folks have suggested that and it does seem to work well! Easy to replace when it wears out too :)
this is ok for rough carpenty, but horrible on laminate and high end finish modular cabinet
Well you'd be hoping the person making your high-end stuff wouldn't be relying on DIY focused tools that is for sure! Blade selection in the saw would go a long way there too...
I wonder why it’s been made with the wobble?
Just a cost thing I'm sure. 'Proper' track saws have adjustments on the cutting tool to ensure they hug the track snuggly. I'm sure they could have added some form of grub screw adjustment to the blue sled but sadly not. Perhaps in a new version, this model has been around a long time now...
@@FixitFingers Yeah I guess. I just bought one to cut some birch ply for a saw table I’m making, need a better straight edge than the factory sheets. I might try some blue masking tape on the sled guides, see if that takes up the slack without affecting friction. My first cut to trim the track was a disaster, all my fault. I’m also using a Makita 5903R which is big, 235mm blade, probably too big for the Accu-Cut but all I have. Fingers crossed for the next attempt 🤞
@@srw_cricket2976 blue tape may do the trick! Make sure you clamp down the track and/or make multiple passes if cutting deep with a saw that big. On ply you should hopefully get some good cuts with a little practice :)
@@FixitFingers 18mm ply. Got some Festool track clamps yesterday, they didn’t quite fit but a little fettling with my files and they are perfect. Will share my results later 👍
@@srw_cricket2976 Awesomes. Tag me on socials, will be interested to see the results
1/8 accuracy can easily cut, freehand, without a track or a fence.
I’d say it’s probably operator error.
Yah. He was probably exhagerating to get his point across how much he disliked the tool. That's why I called poor form on the review. There are some genuinely shocking bits of kit out there, this is not one of them.
1mm is 1/25.4th of an inch
1.5mm is about 1/16th of an inch
Correct! My head maths on the fly was a little off... But then I was measuring by eye too so... 😅
I tried using this on melamine board and it just walked all over the place. How do I stop that??? Couldn't get a solid straight cut to save my life
G'day mate, let's see what we can do. Do you mean walked as in: *1:* The track physically slid over the board during the cut? Or *2:* That after the cut the piece was wavey and different widths along its length? Or *3:* That it was simply tapered and skinnier at one end than the other? Solution *1:* is that Melamine is super slippery and the grip-maxx will struggle to stay in place. If your track is moving during the cut you'll need to clamp it down. The track clamps are not super expensive and I use them all the time. If *2:* either your saw is loose in the sled and not held down correctly so check it is setup correctly (I've got a video on that here: th-cam.com/video/EzlCE9qvdEQ/w-d-xo.html) and ensure there is no play there, or you are experiencing that little bit of 'sled wobble' I highlight in this video and with practice the _twist_ technique should get you down under 1/8" accuracy. If *3:* tapering is using a measuring error rather than a tool error, triple check your track is square to the board before each cut.
I hope one of those tips helps. Also with melamine, chipout is almost inevitable on the thin plastic surface. A high tooth blade, a scribing cut, and/or using blue tape along the cut line will give a much cleaner result. Good luck! Let me know how you go.
@@FixitFingers the track easily shifts while trying to make a cut. Ended up just free handing my cuts
@@fromo14 argh yep that will be the melamine. Grab some track clamps and you'll be gold.
Like he said its the way you do it people who blame the tools are not very good at what they do.
Cheers Glen, the sharpest chisel in the hands of a person unpractised with one will chop crappy joints. It's better than a blunt chisel, but the operator has to take some of the responsibility 😊
Personally love the product!
Me too Anthony. It's not Festool Track saw, but a lot better than a 2x4 guide!
@@FixitFingers for sure and affordable, like you mentioned obviously nothing wrong with Festool buttttt...lol
Me watching this after already buying it 👀😅
Well, now you can feel justified in your purchase! 😊
@FixitFingers yea I have to don't I? .. he says "don't blame the tool" and I have to be like, Yea! Don't blame the tool! 👀😅 I actually believe you can achieve even more accuracy than that with it, will try it soon 😋
So the issue I have with my accu-cut is the middle. Always an eighth off.
That's curious. is the track join alligned well?
@@FixitFingers yep Kreg sent me a new track and still happens I believe it’s exactly what your mentioning in your video. As I start off in behind my saw/work piece and have constant twist/two contact points and as I walk in middle of work piece on my 8ft rips I lose that contact because my grip and position changes. I’ll be more mindful of the twist and let you know how it goes! Thanks for the video.
@@westongonzalez3450 argh I see.Yes practice will help, you should be able to get it to more like 1/16th. Remember it is meant to be a breakdown tool, not a joinery tool. With care you can get very good results, but at the end of the day if it _must_ be super dooper accurate a tablesaw will be your friend :)
I love it when I buy tools to do something and then have to compensate for their lack of ability to do what they were intended for.
Just keep your saw twisted for 8 feet as you walk down the board.
I hope they print that in the instructions manual !
@@burtreynolds3143 Ha! Look to be fair, this is _improving_ the accuracy. If you just slap it down and run the saw through, it'll easily cut an acceptable line for breaking down sheet goods. Taking this extra step will help get you under 1.5mm (1/16") across a full length cut. The same could be said for a cheap tablesaw fence. Even a Festool tracksaw won't cut straight if you don't line it up properly at both ends. Use tools within their intended use case with care, and you'll get the right result :)
I could never get mine to cut anywhere near straight. I gave it to my brother.
I think it might have been my saw but I didn't care I'd had enough of it.
Yeah there are a few saws that won't fit in the sled properly. Hopefully your brother got good use out of it!
I was a little worried about installing the blade after reading a couple of reviews. But it was amazingly easy. Took about 1 minute. Works great th-cam.com/users/postUgkxjpBI8OOeUXib_iT7UomCrQ-uauwZJ62c . Cuts easily and is perfect for pocket cuts I needed to make for replacing some old deck boards.
It's as good as the blade in it. 👍 Even a cheap Ryobi with a decent blade should get good results with it. 😊
Have this product problem not with accuracy it’s all the cheap plastic and guid gets warped after a lot of use
You must be finding a lot more shed time than me :D Mine seems fine for now. The Accu-cut is a decade old design now I think. It would be great for Kreg to give it an update and include an aluminium sled, or at least one that has an adjuster for the fit on the track. We'll see!
No, 1mm is not 1/16".
There are 25.4mm per inch.
One out of sixteen is not the same as one twentyfifth.
Apologies mate, you are correct, 1/16" is about 1.58mm. As an analytical chemist by trade used to dealing in parts per million, that lack of accuracy is not what I strive for in my hobby of woodworking. I believe I said when eyeballing the slop at 03:08 that the movement was _"Maybe 1mm or 1.5mm, so what's that? 1/16"_ and then at 03:35 I say _"a 1/16", 1.5 or 2mm whatever you want to call it, twist"_ Apologies for being on average 0.08mm or 3 thou in the old money off while ranting on the fly about a non-critical guestimation converting from my non-native system of measurement for the convenience of my American viewers at an accuracy of 95% (0.08/1.58mm) while talking about a tool designed to roughly break down sheet goods 🤔😅
For the price of the Accu-Cut it should have far less slop. It definitely moves around at least 1/16" or more in the track. Yes, you show the technique one must use to get a straight cut, but if you haven't come across a video like this, you've already cut your guide strips all to hell before you figure it out. Your mate was right, the track should have more squared and tighter rails. How hard would that have been? IMO, Kreg had a great concept as the sled fits nearly every circular saw out there, but execution is seriously lacking. You're better off just making one out of a couple straight pieces of wood or MDF, you'll have more accurate results. Save your $90 and put it towards a dedicated track saw.
It certainly could be designed better to eliminate some of that slop, nylon grub screws like some of the dedicated track saws have are surely not that difficult to put in. I used a DIY scrap plywood version for a few years before getting this and they are perfectly fine for sheet break-down and cost next to nothing. Having said that I'd never go back after having the Accu-cut on hand. Yes a (reasonable quality) dedicated tracksaw would be better, but that's another tool in the shop and for the weekend warrior who Kreg target, that may not be ideal when you already have a circular saw. Kreg gear always feels that little bit expensive for what it is, but then so does Micro-jig, Armor, and other reasonable hobbiest grade gear. You've got perfectly good cheaper 'Bangood-no-name' stuff out there, the DIY options which are almost free and usually almost as good, and then the professional options which are super crisp but cost you more. It's about picking where you want to comprimise. Ultimately, I find the Accu-cut good value for what it is, a mid-teir option. (Though it's over 5 years old now I think, so hopefully in V2 takes on some of the feedback and improves on the design ;) Thanks for the insights mate, great observations for others to consider.
I don't think DIY guys are going to care about couple mm
Exactly. For the job it is designed to do, and the market/pricepoint it is designed for. It's a good tool. If you're making fine furniture, there are better options.
Even the higher end track saws mate are only as good as the operator, if ya a bell end you think track saws are for precision/cabinetry work.
Yeah how accurate does a track saw need to be? It's a carpentry and break down tool by design. It's only tightarse knobs like me who try to force it to be a table saw replacement 🤣
What is the tools name again? It introduces an error because of the shape of the rails. It's just a bad design. And sorry but I think the "prove" that you showed at the beginning (cut over a 2.4 metres) doesn't show the problem. It's the wobbly base. I'm sure you can cut a straight line with this, but you have to be skilled. Do skilled woodworkers buy a Kreg Track? I don't know. For me it's a design failure (especially the shape of the rails). But hey, I still appreciate your videos!
Argh the real noodle scratcher is "does a less skilled woodworker expect super accurate cuts?" hehehehe ;) Yeah, I am not sure why they went with the trapazoid design over the more common box style but I don't think that is the issue with the little wiggle, I think it's the moulded sled base that just doesn't have a super tight tolerance. There is a reason you get grub screws in the Maktia and Festool ones, to take up the inherant slack. Remember also this tool is designed to use most circular saws on the market which saves you $$$ and from a design point of view that adds complexity whereas a dedicated track saw only has to fit one saw to one track. It ain't perfect by any means, but it's superior to carrying around a 2.4m length of warping wood, and 1/3 the price of a dedicated system. How accurate does a sheet good breakdown tool need to be at the end of the day? Cheers for the thought out comment Jochen!
Argh: Fixit Pirate! Love your content. Also like this "not so much scripted" video.
@@jochenmayer cheers mate! It's much easier to film these on the fly style things too... Great excuse for the dodgy camera work 😂🤔
@@FixitFingers Agreed. If you need super-accurate cuts, run the parts through a table saw after breaking them down. If you're within 1/16" inch when you break down 4' x 8' sheets, you're in good shape for most things.
Very true! That's what the tool is really designed for. Only tight-wads like me try to use it to replace a table saw :P hahaha
Are you wearing that mask because of COVID?
I think you'd get funny looks walking around with that mask on in public 😆 That's just the workshop dust mask, much more comfortable and effective than disposables.
Just one correction - "mil" unit is 1/1000 of the inch. So 1 mil is 0.00254 of millimeter. With all respect to Kreg I don't think this thing is really THAT precise
G'day Andrew, apologies, here is Australia we use the metric system...and like to shorten words, so a 'mil' by definition is a millimetre or 1/1000 of a metre. However, this is slang shorthand and contextual. A 'mil' could also be a 'millilitre' if you were talking about volumes so I see how this can be confusing 😅 This equals approximately 3/64". I try to incorporate imperial measurements for my US audience where possible but I've not heard of 1/1000th of an inch being referred to as a 'mil' before. Interestingly, I'd have called that measurement a "Thou", as in one-thousandth of an inch, and yes it is much much smaller than the metric mil. 😊